Schoeller Textil Receives Editor39 S Choice Award

Schoeller Textil USA Inc., Seattle, recently received the 1999 Editors Choice Award from Backpacker
magazine for its innovative schoeller®-dryskin and schoeller®-dryskin-extreme fabrics.These
fabrics, which provide a durable, weather resistant, lightweight and comfortable woven stretch
fabric for sports enthusiasts, were tested by editors of the magazine over the course of several
months.Being recognized by one of the industrys leading consumer magazines is truly an honor for
Schoeller, said Schoeller Textil USA President Tom Weinbender.

May 1999

U.S. Economy Continues To Grow


The Economy Completes Its Eigth Year Of Expansion And Is Still
Growing

The economy completed its eighth year of expansion in March, and growth continues to be strong.
While most of the latest monthly government reports show a temporary seasonal weakness, overall the
economy was in the fast lane during the first quarter.

Despite a sharp upturn in energy prices, inflation is running below the 2-percent mark and
there are no visible signs for a pickup. This means that the Federal Reserve is likely to leave
short-term rates unchanged in the near future.

Growth in nonfarm jobs rose only 46,000 jobs in March, following an average monthly gain of
276,000 jobs in the previous four months. Construction jobs declined by 47,000 as relatively cold
weather slowed outside activities.

In the first quarter of this year, nonfarm payrolls grew by 560 thousand jobs, and were up
2.2 percent from a year ago.Payrolls for the apparel industry alone are down by 83,000 from a year
ago.

The producer price index for finished goods increased 0.2 percent in March as energy prices
ran up 1.2 percent. Also, consumer prices rose 0.2 percent in March. The core index, which excludes
food and energy, rose just 0.1 percent in March. From a year ago the core inflation was up only 2.1
percent.

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Industrial Production Edges Up; Cool Weather Boosts Utility Use;

Housing Starts Drop

Industrial production edged up 0.1 percent in March, after rising 0.3 percent in February.
Cooler temperatures boosted utility output by 1.9 percent in March. Factory output was unchanged
following a 0.3-percent increase in February. During the first quarter industrial output grew just
0.7 percent at annual rate, the slowest rate since the third quarter of 1998.

With the operating rate down to 80.1 percent from 80.3 percent in February and fierce
competition from abroad, manufacturers will have hard time raising prices.

Housing starts eased 1.3 percent in March to 1.77 million units. Despite the drop, housing
starts were only marginally below the 12-year high of 1.82 million reached in January.

Starts for single-family homes were virtually flat in March, while multi-family units tumbled
5.9 percent to 0.365 million. New home building in the first quarter was the highest since the
second quarter of 1986.

Business sales surged 0.9 percent in February, while business inventories responding to
strong demand grew 0.4 percent.

The inventory-to-sales ratio held steady at 1.37, down from 1.38 a year ago and near its
historic low of 1.36. This means there is no undesirable inventory buildup.


Textile Output Falls After Being Up For Three Straight Months

Results for textiles and apparel were mostly negative. Textile output fell 1.7 percent in March
after rising for three consecutive months before. The operating rate for textiles came down to 80.6
from 82.0 in February.

Sales by textile manufacturers dropped 2.5 percent in February, while inventories fell 0.6
percent. Thus, the ratio of inventories-to-sales climbed to 1.56 from 1.53 in January.

The industry’s payrolls were slashed by 0.5 percent in March, following a sharp 1-percent
drop in February. The jobless rate for textile mill workers declined to 4.3 percent.

Retail sales rose for the eighth month in a row in March. Total retail sales rose 0.2 percent
in March, after surging 1.7 percent in February and 1.3 percent in January.

Retail sales in the first quarter shot up 14.9 percent at an annual rate and were up 8.3
percent from a year ago. While favorable weather was a major factor, the burst in consumer spending
has insulated the U.S. economy from recessions abroad.

Producer prices of textiles and apparel declined 0.2 percent in March for the second month in
a row. Prices surged 0.9 percent for carpets; rebounded 0.8 percent for gray fabrics; recovered one
third of the February drop of 1.8 percent for processed yarns and threads; and rose 0.5 percent for
finished fabrics. Finally, prices declined 0.5 percent for synthetic fibers.

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May 1999

Cone Denim Announces Ring Spun Marketing Campaign

Cone Denim, Greensboro, N.C., recently launched a new marketing campaign aimed at redefining the
way people think about denim.Cone Denim will present its ring-spun denim the worlds strongest and
most luxurious denim in a series of ads using imagery that surpasses the usual five-pocket
jean.Cone Denim is the first manufacturer to take the ring-spun message of strength and versatility
directly to the consumer, said Ken Girouard, creative director of Marketing and Product
Development.Cone Denim is the largest manufacturer of ring-spun denim, which is up to 30-percent
stronger than basic open-end denim.

May 1999

Clariant Introduces MatchWizard Color System

Clariant Corp., Charlotte, N.C., has developed the MatchWizard color-matching system.According to
the company, this system offers instant color matching for popular colors in the Pantone® Textile
Color Matching System, along with quick estimates on dye concentration, formula cost and color
differences from the target. Circle 313.

May 1999

BATI-b Names Norton As New Assistant Editor

Chuck Norton, a graduate of Auburn Universitys textile program, has joined ATI as Assistant Editor
of the magazine, according to Editorial Director Monte G. Plott.Norton, a native of Cartersville,
Ga., and a former news reporter in his hometown, earned a bachelor of science degree in Textile
Man-agement and Technology from Auburn last year, and was working as a research specialist in
Auburns textile department prior to joining ATI.Chuck brings a strong textile background to ATI,
especially in the sizing, nonwovens, dyeing and finishing and chemical segments, said Plott. He
will become a familiar name and face in the industry in the months ahead.Norton will work in the
Atlanta headquarters of ATI with Associate Editor Michelle Havich, and with Executive Editor Alfred
Dockery who is based in North Carolina.

May 1999

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Safe Fun In The Sun


J
ust in time for summer, Solarveil America Inc., Sanford, Fla., has introduced a revolutionary new line of sun protection that will change the way your family plays in the sun.

The line of activewear is made with a patented new fabric called Solarveil™. This fabric blocks almost all ultraviolet A and B (UVA and UVB) rays, while at the same time is lightweight, cool and comfortable.


Proof In The Pudding

Laboratory tests have shown that a single layer of the Solarveil fabric blocks between 75 percent and 80 percent of UVA and UVB rays, and a double layer blocks 92 percent to 95 percent.

The fabric itself contains thousands of microscopic fibers that reflect and refract ultraviolet rays. The fibers are treated with UV inhibitors, further preventing UV rays from penetrating the fabric.

The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and the American Society for Testing Materials (ASTM) specify the testing process that simulates the sun’s intensity in Albuquerque, N.M., at noon in July.

According to the company, many styles in the clothing line are designed with a double layer of Solarveil on the chest, shoulders and back, which are high-exposure areas, allowing the wearer to stay safe in the sun for hours. Unlike sunscreen that has to be reapplied, Solarveil acts like a
permanent sunscreen. The fabric is also breathable and wrinkle-resistant.

p192_2133

The model is wearing a Solarveil floppy hat with a wide brim and the ladies beach cover up.
Solarveil blocks almost all the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays.

(Photo courtesy of Solarveil America Inc.)


Manufacturing Magic

Solarveil fabric is manufactured by Milliken & Co. Milliken recently received a patent for Solarveil and manufactures the fabric exclusively for Solarveil America.

Milliken treats the fabric with its patented VISA® system, which makes the fabric stain resistant and creates a wicking property that pulls moisture away from the skin, keeping the wearer cool and comfortable.

The apparel is durable and dries in minutes, making it ideal to wear in the water for added sun protection, the company said.

The apparel first appeared in Mark, Fore & Strike’s Spring 1999 catalog. The catalog sold out of its original order and, according to Solarveil America, has placed a significant reorder.

“We are delighted the product has received such a tremendous response,” said Bill Snyder, president and CEO of Solarveil America. “We’re confident the demand for Solarveil will increase across the country and worldwide.”

The company is working with independent sales representatives to place the products in retail stores.


Styles And Colors

Solarveil apparel for men, women and children comes in 10 fashion colors including red, blue, black, olive, white, khaki and seafoam.

In the adult clothing range, styles include beach cover-ups, a long sleeve pullover, T-shirts, polo shirts, pants, jackets and a sarong. Apparel for children, toddlers and infants include T-shirts, pants, jackets and jumpsuits.

There are also seven different styles of hats available, including a bucket hat, golf cap, and sportsveil hats for adults and children.

The MSRP for Solarveil apparel ranges for $25 to $85. The entire line of Solarveil apparel can be viewed on Solarveil America’s website at www.solarveil.com. Solarveil America was founded in 1997. The company began selling Solarveil as “stylish stuff for sun-safe skin” in late 1998.

May 1999

U S Polyester Fiberfill Producers File Petition

The domestic producers of polyester staple for fiberfill end-uses including DuPont, KoSa, Nan Ya
International Polymers and Wellman, recently filed an anti-dumping petition on imports of fiberfill
from South Korea and Taiwan with the U.S. Department of Commerce and the U.S. International
International Trade Commission.The petition alleges that the U.S. polyester staple producers are
being materially injured and are threatened with continued material injury by reason of imports
that are being dumped or sold in the United States at less-than-fair value.It seeks imposition of
substantial anti-dumping duties on the exporting countries, to offset the difference between their
average export prices for sales of the product and their average prices for contemporaneous home
market sales.According to Wellman, between 1996 and 1998, U.S. apparent domestic fiberfill
consumption grew 41 percent. For the same period, the volume of subject imports originating from
South Korea and Taiwan grew by more than 136 percent, while U.S. producer shipments grew a mere 3
percent.The combined South Korean and Taiwanese share of the U.S. market increased nearly 17
percentage points on an absolute basis, while U.S. producers saw their share of the domestic market
drop nearly 18 percent.

May 1999

DuPont Introduces New Chlorine-Resistant Lycra

DuPont Lycra® has introduced a new chlorine-resistant Lycra for the 1999 season. The
chlorine-resistant Lycra will be used in both competitive and recreational swimwear. It is more
durable, resistant to the effects of chlorine and has the same characteristics of the previous
Lycra, the company said.Several manufacturers such as Baltex, TYR, Nike, Speedo, Jantzen and
Nautica are using the chlorine-resistant Lycra for 1999. Circle 317.

May 1999

Van Air Systems Expands Its Air Dryer Offering

Van Air Systems Inc., Lake City Pa.,has announced that it is enhancing its custom dryer offering.
The company says that they now have an extensive in-house technical support team and manufacturing
capabilities available for end used and engineering firms looking for custom air treatment
applications.Van Air Systems is offering heated and heatless regenerative dryers that can be
designed with accessory equipment for other air treatment solutions.

May 1999

The Fiber Factor

The Fiber Factor
A statistical report shows how all three major man-made fibers have been affected by imports
and exports.
 The Fiber Economics Bureau recently published a statistical series detailing
domestic fiber manufacturer production and shipments, exports, imports and domestic consumption for
the three major manmade fibers: acrylic, nylon and polyester. The figures are particularly
revealing of the role of fiber imports in U.S. textile mill activity.The modern U.S. fiber industry
is barely 50 years old and has matured dramatically in those few years. Historically, U.S. fiber
producers were net exporters, not so much because the industry actively pursued exports but rather
because U.S. fibers were demanded since international rivals had not installed technology
sufficient for competition in critical fabrics.The investment is now in place and enormous
quantities of new fiber imports will harass the domestic industry in the next few years more than
all the imports in history.All three of the major fibers are impacted but, as you might expect,
polyester, the 800-pound gorilla of fiber usage, is most heavily affected.Total U.S. mill
consumption of polyester fibers (filament plus staple) has grown at an annual rate of 4.1 percent
thus far in the 1990s.Domestic fiber producers provided 470 million pounds of this growth,
approximately 38 percent, while imports added the rest, 767 million pounds
(See Table 1).Domestic producers did manage to expand exports 9 percent per year, a
relatively impressive accomplishment given the short time producers have been focusing on
establishing long-term export programs and the relative economic disadvantages U.S. producers
suffer. Unfortunately, however, imports overwhelmed this success with an average growth of more
than 22 percent during the period.It is tempting to blame the Asian crisis and its low offering
prices for all of this change this but Table 1 suggests otherwise.From 1990 (admittedly a
relatively low period in the early 90s recession) through 1995 (before the real impact of the Asian
monetary crisis), imports grew at a 27+-percent annual rate. From 1995 through 1998, as the real
shock of the Asian crisis became apparent, the rate slowed by almost half to the 14+-percent level
restrained somewhat by home country fiber usage in garments for export. Asian fibers impacted U.S.
producers more by slowing non-NAFTA export programs than by ravaging U.S. markets.That is not to
say that current reported prices will help domestic fiber producers but, despite all the wailing,
U.S. polyester producers, at least until 1998, enjoyed relatively good volumes.Table 2 details
domestic and import shipments of polyester staple. Mill consumption of polyester staple increased
by 3+ percent per year for the period but, more importantly, that statistic is of little comfort to
domestic producers.Shipments of U.S.-produced staple for U.S. consumption grew not at all during
the 90s as U.S.-polyester-staple manufacturers shipped an average of 2,150 million pounds of staple
for domestic consumption each year in the period.Domestic consumption rose to current levels in
1994 (26 percent above 1990 recession levels) and since has stagnated, obviously depressed by the
growing flood of manufactured items arriving from Asia.Any growth in U.S. staple consumption since
1991 is accounted for by imports, and it is apparent that domestic producers have abdicated
domestic consumption growth to imports. Starting from the smaller base, imports grew an astounding
29+ percent from 1990 through 1995 and have slowed to a mere 8-percent crawl since. This staple
shipment pattern drives the overall picture for all polyester fibers since staple represents
approximately two thirds of all polyester processed in this country.NAFTA is extremely beneficial
for the polyester staple producer. From 97 to 98, polyester staple shipments rose approximately 25
percent to our NAFTA partners, particularly to Mexico, while overall export shipments rose a more
sedate 5 percent.Filament Shipments RiseTable 3 details domestic and import shipments of polyester
textile filament. Significantly different from staples shipment and consumption pattern, textile
filament has enjoyed substantial growth during the 90s.Domestic shipments for domestic consumption
increased from 725 million pounds in 1990 to 1,005 million pounds in 1998, an annual increase of
4.2 percent, slightly under the 4.3-percent increase in total shipments for domestic polyester
filament producers.The data shows that while U.S. filament manufacturers had made significant
progress in opening and serving export markets between 1990 and 1996, the bottom dropped out in
1997 and 98 in response to the take-no-prisoners pricing strategies of Asian producers as they
struggled to survive the regional financial crisis.Industrial FilamentThe largely
specification-driven polyester industrial yarn business continues to grow. Analysis of the decades
shipments clearly demonstrates the value of investment in technology.Long the preserve of domestic
fiber manufacturers, the industrial market gradually is succumbing to the siren call of lower
priced, generally equivalent quality, imported industrial fibers.Offshore manufacturers are waging
a determined battle with domestic suppliers for a share of industrial textiles. Recent investment
in state-of-the art spinning and winding equipment will serve Asian producers well in meeting
quality and performance specifications at a more than competitive price.A small share of the import
increases are deliberate manufacturing shifts between NAFTA-sited facilities. But the largest
portion reflects increased activity from Asian nations. Increased Asian participation in world
markets reduced U.S. export opportunities in both textile filament and industrial filament markets,
the former dropping by approximately 30 percent from 1996 peaks and the latter, after suffering a
setback in 1996, is now struggling to rise to pre-96 levels. Unfortunately, inexperience and lack
of history in international trade will dog polyester fiber producers for years to come.Changes in
the polyester filament trade with our NAFTA partners from 97 to 98 was entirely more steady than
that in staple. What Canada increased, Mexico decreased for a virtual standoff year to
year.Capacity Use SuffersAs can be expected from the foregoing analysis, domestic polyester fiber
producers will struggle in the coming years to keep operating rates above the magic 80-percent
level.We measure capacity use against sales (shipments), which allows us to ignore inventory
changes which are more financial/production considerations than market driven. Against this
measure, the overall U.S. polyester industry ran at a middle 80s operating rate through most of the
decade and, as we earlier have reported in these pages, the industry was able to maintain finished
goods stocks in the 30 day range.Searching For ImprovementThe string finally was broken in 1998 as
U.S. markets faded and plunging Asian domestic consumption dictated export programs in search of
hard currencies. The overall industry ran at a 74-percent operating level in 1998 with textile
filament suffering the most. As DuPont withdrew Cooper River and part of Kinston from textile
filament competition, new Unifi capacity added to the already oversupplied industry and drove
textile filament operating levels into the mid-60s. Interestingly, even if there were no imports of
textile filament, the operating rate would struggle to rise to 80 percent.The combination of poor
business and recent capacity increases has forced this segment of the industry into the long term
doldrums. Though the players are different (Wellman replaces Unifi), recent operating rates for
polyester staple were barely better than those for textile filament for many of the same reasons.
New capacity combined with bargain basement priced imported materials sank staples 1998 operating
rate to 77 percent, a level only slightly better than that for textile filament.Only the industrial
filament market has expanded sufficiently to absorb both imports and the modestly increased
domestic capacity.Staple and textile filament both suffer from severe over capacity. It is hard to
project domestic improvement until we see more Asian recovery than is currently apparent. 
May 1999

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