Jiangsu Sunshine Group Installs GERBERsuite Line

China-based Jiangsu Sunshine Group has entered into a joint venture with Italy-based Corneliani.
Under the terms of the agreement, Jiangsu Sunshine Group will manufacture 250,000 mens suits per
year under the Corneliani name for sale throughout the provinces of Shanghai, Beijing and
Nanjing.To support this venture, Jiangsu Sunshine Group has installed the GERBERsuite line of
solutions from Gerber Technology, Tolland, Conn. This includes two GTxL Gerber cutters, a DCS 3500
conveyorized cutter, a 122-station Gerbermover for automated assembly and two Gerberspreaders with
the Gerbersaver Flaw Management System.The Jiangsu Sunshine Group employs cutting-edge technology
for the manufacture of textiles, explained Steven Tang, Gerbers regional vice president for Asia
Pacific. Now, they have chosen state-of-the-art technology for their very high-quality mens suit
production.

February 2001

Nonwovens Technology

ATME-I 2000 ReviewBy Richard G. Mansfield, Technical Editor Nonwovens Technology
Acquisitions, alliances fuel growth for nonwovens machinery
manufacturers.
  Acquisitions, the formation of alliances and reorganizations of
nonwovens machinery producers are trends that were well in evidence at ATME-I 2000 trends that are
likely to continue. Examples of these trends include Rieters acquisition of ICBT Perfojet. Rieter
has evolved from a company that once was heavily concentrated in spun-yarn-processing equipment to
a key supplier of components and systems for man-made- fiber-manufacturing and nonwoven- processing
units. The recent entry of the company into spunbonded systems will give it more clout as a
supplier to the nonwovens industry.The acquisition by Autefa and Dilo of Spinnbau from Kleinewefers
enables a company, such as Dilo, to more easily provide customers with compatible components for a
whole nonwovens manufacturing system.A symposium presented during ATME-I, The German Nonwoven
Machinery Industry Partner for a Challenging Market, illustrated how companies are creating
alliances to aid their customers. Speakers at this symposium were from Dilo, American Truetzschler,
Spinnbau, Autefa, Kleinewefers, Fleissner and SchottandMeissner.Another important joint development
program is the work Fleissner and Hills Inc. have been doing to make microdenier spunlace fabrics
using Fleissners AquaJet spunlacing system and Hills bicomponent fiber manufacturing skills.The
Santex Group has reorganized in order to better service the highloft nonwovens business as well as
providing machinery for the coating and laminating of nonwovens. Nonwovens LeadersAutefa
Automation Group This German/Swiss company develops and manufactures components and logistics for
textiles and other industries. Autefa manufactures crosslappers for making nonwovens and textile
products. The functions of the crosslapper are to increase the surface weight of the web, improve
the longitudinal/transverse strength, increase the web width and improve the web quality.Autefa
Topliner crosslappers layering belts have low surface weight and friction, are chemically resistant
and highly conductive, and reduce static electricity problems. 

Dilo System Group The Dilo System Group includes alliances with Spinnbau, producers of
carding systems for nonwovens, and Siemens Mannheim in Europe and Siemens Westinghouse. The Siemens
companies provide on-call service and logistics with 24-hour emergency response for electrical
system repair and maintenance. As part of this alliance, Dilo and Siemens can provide training
options for the needleloom lines electrical and power systems.Spinnbau sells a carding unit for
producing thermal-bonded diaper coverstocks. The unit can make a 4-meter-wide web that runs at 370
meters per minute. In recent years, Dilo has supplied more than 70 needlepunch systems worldwide.
Sales of the companys geotextile systems have grown significantly.At ATME-I 2000, Dilo exhibited a
fully functional nonwovens line. Bale opening and fine opening were provided by Truetzschler. The
fiber flocks were then conveyed to the Dilo booth, where a dosage-control system fed the
Truetzschler Scanfeed FBK 539 unit, which then prepared the material via fleece-conveyor and
air-lay Turbo-Unit for the Spinnbau Turbo-Card. The Turbo-Unit is the air-lay web-forming unit to
be fed by either carded web, pre-needled fleece or a flock-feeding unit (Truetzschler FBK). The
Turbo-Card system combines a classic roller card and an air-lay unit when a maximum quality of
homogeneous blending and distribution of fiber in the fleece is required. In order to increase the
evenness of the product, two such lines may be combined into a tandem line by sandwiching two
fleeces with half the final weight of each on a collecting apron. The fleece is then consolidated
in the Dilo Hyperpunch needling system. With elliptical needling kinematics, it offers extremely
high throughput speeds of up to 150 meters per minute (m/min) at up to 3000 strokes per minute.
Dilo states that there are minimal dimensional changes (low draft and shrinkage close to 0
percent). When elliptical needling kinematics are combined with a special selection of
high-precision needles, interesting effects for the consolidation of fine-fleece hygienic wipes and
pads can be expected in regard to strength, drape and entanglement.Fehrer AG, Nonwovens Machinery
Division Fehrer exhibited a fully operative needle-punch machine type NL 21/SF-RV Superlooper in
2.4-meter working width. The machine is designed for the high-speed production of top-quality
random velours on a brush conveyor. Through the use of carbon fiber reinforcement for those
oscillating parts of the machine subject to extreme loads, it is now possible to achieve speeds of
up to 3,000 revolutions per minute (rpm). The Superloopers performance is enhanced by GBB 75 needle
distribution in both needle zones. Fehrer promoted to its customers the new mini-mill nonwovens
trial center in Linz, Austria, which allows running a wide variety of realistic customer trials for
many different applications of existing and potential customers. 

Fleissner GmbH Fleissner is a company that has been in business for more than 150 years as a
supplier of machinery for the textile and related businesses. Its initial products were targeted
for textile dyeing and finishing, but the companys product lines have broadened to include
machinery for synthetic fiber, paper and nonwoven fabric production.Fleissners Through-Air Drying
units have good acceptance by textile, nonwoven and paper manufacturers. Fabrics dried on these
units with minimum tension have a soft hand and low pattern distortion. The introduction of the
Fleissner AquaJet spunlacing system has enabled the company to broaden its participation in the
nonwovens industry. The AquaJet system can produce fabrics with weights from 10 to 100 grams per
square meter (g/m2) in widths up to 6,000 millimeters (mm) (240 inches) at pressures up to 600 bar
(8,800 psi). More than 30 AquaJet systems have been installed throughout the world.In conjunction
with Hills Inc. of Melbourne, Fla., Fleissner is developing spunlaced fabrics made with microdenier
fibers (less than 0.3 denier). Hills has developed fiber-spinning techniques to produce bicomponent
fibers that split during the spunlacing process to produce the microdenier fibers. The resulting
fabrics have a good hand and can be used for synthetic leather, substrates, velvet-like fabrics,
and for filtration and insulation applications. Spunlaced microdenier fabrics are used to make
wiping cloths for use in cleanroom processing installations.The Fleissner AquaTex system produces
Interspun® fabrics by the use of high-energy water impinging on the fabric. These fabrics have a
softer hand, improved abrasion resistance and reduced seam slippage. In some cases, latex for
stabilization can be eliminated.Kleinewefers (KTM) Kleinewefers (KTM) has been a producer of
calenders for the textile industry for many years. Thermobonding calendering units for nonwoven
fabric production now comprise an important segment of the companys business.KTMs Parotherm®
calenders are designed to provide for processes like spunbonding and for thermobonding of staple
fibers. The name Parotherm means the calender has a heatable roller with an integrated deflection
compensation engineered for these applications. In a two-roll Parotherm system, pressure is applied
externally and only one hydraulic system is required. KTM Parotherm rolls for making a
polypropylene coverstock use typical roll-surface temperatures, 160ºC and 250ºC for polyester
interlinings, with temperature tolerances plus or minus 1ºC. Speeds of up to 600 m/min can be
attained.Lurgi Zimmer Lurgi Zimmer is among the premier plant engineering companies for synthetic
fiber plants. The company has built production plants in 50 different countries and has built 390
polyamide plants; 160 polyester polycondensation plants; 147 high-speed spinning plants for POY,
FDY and FOY filament yarns; and 50 staple-fiber plants.Among the companys most significant recent
developments for fiber manufacturing are: PTT technology, jointly developed with Shell, for carpets
and apparel; modified polymers for high-performance spinning processes, high-tenacity technical
yarns; and high-performance spinning systems.Future research and development efforts include
optimization of PET processes to reduce capital operating costs, improvement of processes for
manufacturing PBT and PTT polyesters and use of renewable resources for cellulose processes.Neumag
The Neumag three-end BCF (bicomponent fiber) MAC (Modulus Assembly Concept) plant provides a mill
with the ability to start production of mono- or multicolored BCF yarns in just two weeks. The
unit, which is shipped in six 40-foot containers, can be assembled in nine days and is fully
functional in an additional five days.The Neumag BCF MAC unit can be supplied for polypropylene,
polyamide or polyester production. The machine and related utilities are placed into a modular
steel frame and assembled at Neumags facility prior to containerization and shipping. As well,
Neumag can provide modular specialized staple-fiber lines capable of producing bicomponent
fibers.N. SchlumbergerandCie In the nonwovens arena, N. SchlumbergerandCie has unveiled for the
first time to the public the worlds widest card cylinder (as claimed by the company) with a width
of 5 meters (197 inches). This cylinder usually would be integrated in the type CA11R35PPLL card.
According to company officials, such a card is already running in the industry with production
speeds of over 300 m/min. The CA11 card is adapted to the hygienic, clothing, medical and technical
products markets.Reifenhauser Reifenhauser was the first company to successfully introduce a
spunbonding system and has sold more systems throughout the world than any other company. The
Reicofil® system can produce spunbonded polypropylene fabrics from 10 to 150 g/m2 in widths up to
5,200 mm. The Double Reicofil line incorporates a second extrusion and spunbonding line, and raises
production rates while reducing energy consumption.The Reicofil Composite system incorporates
meltblowing units with the spunbonding units in order to produce SM (spunbond/meltblown), SMS and
SMMS composites. 

Rieter Perfojet Formerly known as ICBT Perfojet, this newest member of the Rieter group
manufactures spun- and filament-yarn processing equipment. This machinery produces nonwovens for
medical fabrics, personal and industrial wipes and synthetic leather.The Jetlace 2000 produces webs
from 20 to 400 g/m2 at 300 m/min. The water-jet injectors can operate at a pressure as high as
1,000 bar. Rieter Perfojet and M and J Fibertech have developed a spunlaced/air-laid combination
that produces wet wipes that are soft and have high uniformity and good absorption.In early 1998,
Rieter Perfojet started the design of a new generation of spunbonded fabric-production systems
under the trade name of Spunjet. The Spunjets advanced quenching system controls air in three
vertical zones and allows each zone to be controlled independently. All external air filters and
ductwork are integrated in line frames. Large volumes of air from the web former are accurately
controlled and managed. Heat dissipated within the system is collected and used for heating, and is
replaced by fresh air. Fiber drawing is achieved by using a specially designed slot device. The
Spunjet system can be erected within three weeks, and production can be started in another three
weeks.Santex Group (Santex Nonwovens) Santex Nonwovens was formed in 1999 in order to concentrate
the efforts of the Santex Group on nonwovens. In the United States, American Santex Inc. is the
organization selling and servicing nonwoven products.The Santex Wavemaker is a vertical lapping
unit that operates according to the rotation principle. The vertical position of the fibers in the
cross direction provides three-dimensional stability. The resulting products are finding use as
replacements for polyurethane foam in selected seating and bedding applications. The units can
handle card webs of up to 3,500 mm in width and infeed speeds of up to 150 m/min.The Santex
Santatherm unit is a thermal-fusion oven for nonwovens. Flowthrough and overflow techniques allow
the use of the same oven for air- permeable and impermeable materials. Each section of the unit
allows control of air-nozzle height adjustment, temperature and air regulation. Applications for
the Santatherm unit include thermal fusion with power or fiber, impregnation drying and heat-
setting. The Santext Santabond II is a smoothing and cooling calender that can be run under
pressure or with a gap.The Santex Highspeed I thermobonding line can run at speeds of up to 250
m/min, while the Highspeed II can achieve speeds of up to 350 m/min.Spinnbau Spinnbau, formerly
known as Krupp-Spinnbau, was part of the Kleinewefers group between 1981 and 1996. When Autefa and
Dilo acquired Spinnbau, the technical capabilities of former company Hergeth-Hollingsworth were
incorporated into Spinnbau.The Spinnbau carding program comprises universal cards with single and
double doffer, random cards with random and condenser rolls, specialty tandem cards and air-lay
cards. Spinnbau specializes in cards with working widths of up to 4 meters and wider for direct
feeding of thermobonding and spunlacing lines. Spinnbau recommends two-roll take-off systems,
effective at high running speeds.Spinnbau cards are equipped with suction and filter systems that
eliminate much of the cleaning. The top roller compartment is continuously vacuumed. Vacuumed fiber
is automatically fed back into the process, and dust is collected in a central filter station.A
modern Spinnbau card is PC-controlled and menu-driven. The card is integrated into a complete line
with a crosslapper and needleloom. Editor’s Note: this is the final report in ATI’s
three-installment series about the ATME-I show, held this past October in Greenville, S.C.

February 2001

Textile Industry Year-End Trade And Economic Report

Textile Industry Year-End Trade And Economic Report The president of the American Textile
Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) cited the industrys increased exports as the brightest spot in an
otherwise challenging economic picture for the U.S. textile industry in 2000.According to ATMI
President Roger W. Chastain, Textile mill shipments fell for the third consecutive year as the
general economy started to cool and imports of low-cost Asian textiles continued to exert downward
pressure on domestic textile prices. However, the importance of well-negotiated trade agreements
such as the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and the recently inaugurated U.S.-Caribbean
Basin Trade Partnership Act was underscored by the 12-percent increase in exports of yarn, fabric
and made-up textile goods in 2000. Chastain noted that despite a strong U.S. dollar, textile
exports exceeded $10 billion for the first time in history.The annual business review issued by
ATMI also showed that: Textile mill shipments fell in 2000 for the third year in a row. This was
the first three-year decline in textile mill shipments in at least 40 years. Shipments declined
approximately 1 percent last year to $77 billion, the lowest level since 1993. Mill fiber
consumption managed a 1- percent gain last year to 16.6 billion pounds. Following two consecutive
declines, the producer price index (PPI) for selected textile mill products remained unchanged in
2000 from 1999. Textile corporate sales also weakened in 2000 and were down 4 percent, to $58.2
billion, the lowest sales level since 1991. Significant write-offs resulted in an after-tax
industry loss of approximately $300 million last year, following profits of $700 million in 1999.
Prior to last year, the industry has not had an annual loss in the more than 50 years that the data
has been collected. Meanwhile, despite an 18-minute increase in the average workweek in the textile
industry in 2000, the index of hours worked in the industry fell 2 percent, reflecting the slower
pace of industry conditions. Textile employment continued its long-term decline in 2000 and reached
an average of 543,000 workers, about 3 percent or 15,000 workers below 1999. However, industry
productivity continued to grow as the pounds of fiber processed per employee increased 3.4 percent
in 2000 and real shipments per worker hour rose 2.5 percent.
February 2001

February 2001


The Fiber Society, Clemson, S.C., has named

Dr. Ning Pan
, University of California at Davis, president;

Dr. Gail Eaton
, TRI/Princeton, New Jersey, vice president; and

Dr. Subhash K. Batra
, North Carolina State University, secretary-treasurer, for the year 2001.

WestPoint Stevens Inc., West Point, Ga., has named

M.L. “Chip” Fontenot
president and COO. Fontenot will replace

Tom Ward
, who retired at the end of 2000.


Hans Stahlecker
has been appointed chairman of the Board of Directors of
Spindelfabrik Suessen, Schurr, Stahlecker & Grill GmbH, Suessen,
Germany.


Lawson-Hemphill Inc., Spartanburg, S.C., has named

Daniel Mangle Jr.
to the Rhode Island team as director of business development. Mangle will focus on
developing and promoting new products and technology in the international marketplace.


Mangle_334


Mangle


J. Michael O’Bryan
and

Karl Sherill
have joined
Boehme Filatex Inc., Reidsville, N.C., as technical sales representatives.

Batson Yarn and Fabrics Machinery Group, Greenville, S.C., has named

Bruce Kalley
director of technical services. In addition,

Max Cochran
will serve as product manager for the company.

Honeywell Performance Fibers, Colonial Heights, Va., has named

Greg Rogowski
general manager, Americas, and

Greg Herceg
Spectra® business director.


James A. Harry
, Grover Industries, Grover, N.C., has been named president of the
North Carolina Manufacturers Association Inc. (NCMA), Raleigh, N.C.

Milton E. Gold
, Amital Spinning Corp., New Bern, N.C., was named first vice president and

William T. McGhee III
, Wiscasset Mills, Kannapolis, N.C., was named second vice president and treasurer.

Richards-Wilcox Inc., Aurora, Ill., has appointed

Leticia DeLaFuente
distribution manager of conveyor systems. DeLaFuente will be responsible for sales and
distribution in North America.

FMC Corp., Chicago, has elected

William G. Walter
executive vice president and a member of the company’s Board of Directors.


Global Chemical Solutions, Dalton, Ga., has named

Marshall “Babe” Rayburn
technical sales specialist. Rayburn will represent the company in South
Carolina.  

rayburn_335

Rayburn




Paul Lahman
has been appointed senior vice president and chief technology officer for
Jones Apparel Group, Bristol, Pa.


Mike Lollis
has been named vice president and managing director for
EVS US Inc., Charlotte, N.C. In this capacity, Lollis will be responsible for all
EVS operations in the United States, Canada and Mexico.

Sapona Manufacturing Co. Inc., Cedar Falls, N.C., has appointed

Bruce Crumbliss
vice president of sales.


Joe Dana
has been named CEO of
SI Corp., Chickamauga, Ga. Dana replaces

Leonard Chill
, who retired from the company in January 2001.

Optimer Inc., Wilmington, Del., has appointed

Barry Garlick
vice president of marketing and business development for the western United States and
Asia.

Kellwood Co., St. Louis, Mo., has elected

Martin Bloom
, chairman of Massachusetts-based MBI Associates, and

Janice E. Page
, director of Ohio-based R.G. Barry Corp., to its Board of Directors. In addition, the
company has named

W. Lee Capps III
vice president, finance, and CFO. 




Mike Debier
, European market manager for metals and glass for Eclipse Inc., Rockford, Ill., has been
named president of the
European Committee of the Industrial Furnace and Heating Equipment Association.
Debier will serve a three-year term as president.



debier_333



Debier

Switzerland-based
Gretag-Macbeth Holding AG has named

Thomas J. Vacchiano Jr.
president and CEO. Vacchiano will succeed

Ronald G. Anderson
, who will act as advisor to the Board of Directors until his retirement in May 2001.


L. Blaine Boswell
, vice president of public affairs,
PPG Industries, Pittsburgh, will retire in March 2001 after 32 years of service.
In addition,

David E. Sharick
, director of corporate development, and

Aziz S. Giga
, director of strategic planning, have been elected vice presidents of the company.

Haggar Clothing Co., Dallas, has named

Frank Keeney
manager of Haggar Sportswear®. Keeney will be responsible for the growth of Haggar’s shirt
business, which encompasses knits and wovens for the Black Label™, Collections, Generations™ and
Golf sub-brands.

Alba-Waldensian Inc., Valdese, N.C., a division of Tefron Ltd., has appointed

Cheryl Rosenthal
vice president of quality assurance and business development. 



February 2001




 

John D Hollingsworth Jr Dies At Age 83

John D. Hollingsworth Jr. Dies At Age 83John D. Hollingsworth Jr., the reclusive owner of John D.
Hollingsworth on Wheels, Greenville, S.C., and one of the centurys most compelling textile figures,
died Dec. 30, 2000. He was 83.The business that he built, along with his real estate holdings,
enabled Hollingsworth to build an estate estimated at up to $600 million. He left that estate to a
fund that will benefit Furman University in Greenville, S.C., as well as the Greenville County YMCA
and other Greenville County charities. Hollingsworths will, which left nothing to his only
daughter, only intensified the mystique surrounding one of South Carolinas wealthiest
men.Hollingsworth was obsessive about privacy, according to those close to him, and cautious about
whom he trusted. In 1964, he accused his then-wife and only daughter of stealing money from his
company. However, he refused to testify against them at trial and both were acquitted. In the early
years, he had to be talked into applying for patents for his machinery ideas for fear that his
designs would become public record.Forbes Magazine, in an article in 1989 about the 400 wealthiest
Americans, described him as a miserly man with mean habits. Despite such a reputation, he routinely
donated hundreds of thousands of dollars to charities. He insisted, however, on
anonymity.Hollingsworth built John D. Hollingsworth on Wheels into one of the worlds leading
fiber-processing equipment makers. He invented machinery that separated textile fibers 10 times
faster than earlier machines, and he was credited in part with revitalizing Americas textile
machinery industry. Hollingsworth has subsidiary companies in Brazil, Canada, France, Germany,
Italy, Mexico, Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom. It employs 1,200 to 1,500 people
worldwide.Hollingsworths grandfather started the familys business with a mule-drawn wagon in the
late 1800s. Hollingsworths father, John D. Hollingsworth Sr., bought a truck and ran the company
out of the garage of the familys house in Greenville. John Jr. was 10 years old when he began to
tag along with his father on trips to the areas textile mills to help fix the machinery.
Hollingsworth took over the company when his father died in February 1942.
February 2001

Johnston Industries Plant Consolidation Plan

Johnston Industries Plant Consolidation Plan Company management at Johnston Industries, Columbus,
Ga., completed a review of the companys capacity in light of current market conditions and has
decided to consolidate the Columbus Mill plant into other operations. Management decided it was
necessary to reduce the number of operating plants to better align the company to service customers
in a profitable manner and to stabilize the working schedules for operations personnel.Increasing
competitive pressure has compelled Johnston to remove equipment that is not cost-effective and
focus resources on equipment more suited to its product offering. The age and layout of the
Columbus Mill facility was a key consideration in the consolidation plans, as its multi-story
configuration creates inefficiencies not found in Johnstons other facilities.The business currently
serviced by Columbus Mill will be phased out and merged into the Southern Phenix Textiles and the
Opp and Micolas Mills. Many Columbus employees will be relocating to the Southern Phenix facility.
February 2001

Nano-Tex Licenses Nano-Dry And Nano-Care Technology

Nano-Tex LLC, Greensboro, N.C., announced that it has agreed to license the molecular technology of
Nano-Tex for fabric production by New York City-based GaleyandLord and Burlington PerformanceWear,
Greensboro, N.C.Under these agreements, GaleyandLord will use the Nano-Care technology on a variety
of cotton and cotton- blended fabrics that will be both wrinkle-resistant and water- and
oil-repellant. Burlington PerformanceWear will utilize the Nano-Dry technology to provide advanced
hydrophilic properties to nylon and polyester fabrics.George W. Henderson III, CEO, Nano-Tex, said,
These partnerships bring the next generation of fabrics to reality. We are delighted to have two
very reputable mills such as GaleyandLord and Burlington PerformanceWear join with Nano-Tex to
provide the marketplace affordable, high-performance fabrics. Nano-Care and Nano-Dry are the first
introductions in a family of products being developed by Nano-Tex, bringing ease of care and
superior performance to everyday fabrics. By changing the fabric at the molecular level, Nano-Tex
creates new opportunities in the marketplace with differentiated products based on cutting-edge
nanotechnology. We believe that our ability to bring this technology to everyday fabrics will set a
new standard for fabric performance in the future.

February 2001

Contech Offers New Rewinder

Contech, Goddard, Kan., offers the Magna RW Rewinder, a low-cost, easily operated system for
converting large master rolls of a variety of materials to more manageable smaller rolls. Optional
razor slitting, economical slit/rewind capabiltiy and custom engineering are also available.

February 2001

Bank Of America Arranges 1 5 Billion Financing For Levi Strauss

NEW YORK, Dec. 27 /PRNewswire/ — Bank of America Securities today announced the launch of $1.5
billion Senior Secured Credit Facilities on behalf of Levi Strauss and Co., one of the world’s
leading branded apparel companies. The facilities have been underwritten by Bank of America,
NA,Citicorp USA, Inc. and The Bank of Nova Scotia. Syndication of the facilities will commence in
early January. The commitment is subject to customary conditions, including the negotiation and
execution of a definitive creditagreement. Completion of the agreement is expected to occur in late
January. The new senior secured credit facilities consist of a $750 million Revolving Credit
Facility and $750 million in Term Loan Facilities. Banc of America Securities LLC and Salomon Smith
Barney Inc. are acting as Co-Lead Arrangers and Joint Book Managers on the facilities. The
facilities are allpari passu in ranking and scheduled to mature in August 2003. The purpose of the
new financing will be to refinance existing bank debt.SOURCE Bank of America Corporation Web Site:
http://www.bankofamerica.com Copyright 2001 PR Newswire

Challenging Tradition

There have been several comments in the textile press that there is perhaps an excess of textile
machinery shows and that machinery makers are limiting their efforts by electing to make a
significant presence at selected exhibitions. This was clearly apparent at the American Textile
Machinery Exhibition International (ATME-I) 2000, because the booths contained little equipment,
and several manufacturers had only a token presence. While this report primarily focuses on staple
spinning, it was clearly evident from the number of exhibitors, and from the activities at the
various booths, that the nonwovens sector had become a major feature of this ATME-I (See the
upcoming nonwovens report in the February issue of ATI). Exhibitors included companies that market
cutting and recycling of waste fibers, opening and feed systems, web-forming systems, and different
bonding techniques.A further surprising feature was the re-emergence and significant presence of
Greenville, S.C.-based Saco Lowell Inc. at the textile machinery show. Indeed, Saco Lowell (and
Fiber Controls) occupied the greatest amount of booth space of any single manufacturer at the show
and, furthermore, actually showed the greatest range of spinning machinery. The focal point of the
Saco Lowell display was the companys 766 Rovematic roving frame, which claimed to doff an entire
128-spindle frame in less than three minutes. Also on display were opening and cleaning machinery,
the M-2000 card, the Model 995 draw frame, the Model 804 tdS spinning frame and Model 849 heavy
ring twister. The brief review that follows looks primarily at general trends in yarn production
and particular new developments viewed in the light of the last ITMA and OTEMAS.  There have
been several developments in carding machines, which, when taken together, could represent a major
breakthrough. These include automatic measurement of sliver uniformity (all cards with
autolevelers) and nep content (Truetzschler), automatic measurement of card settings (Truetzschler
and Hollingsworth), centralized and possibly motorized flat setting (Truetzschler), automatic
grinding of cylinder and flats (Rieter). If these technologies were combined, it should thus be
possible to grind and set the card based on measurements of nep content and sliver uniformity.
There have been few changes in drawing machines, but the possibility of integrating a drawing unit
with the card is being promoted by Truetzschler. While this possibility has been previously
proposed by other manufacturers, it is claimed that by using a higher draft, the present system
gives improvements in fiber straightening and, hence, yarn properties. Truetzschler also exhibited
its Sliver Focus System, which records the incidences of thick places (longer than 20 millimeters
and 15 percent over-weight), and emphasized that sliver thick places can be correlated with yarn
defects. One further drawing unit worthy of note was the Schlumberger chain gill with electronic
autoleveling, which has a maximum speed of 500 meters per minute (m/min). SpinningRing
Spinning In conventional ring spinning, a cotton spinning frame (with Murata link winding) was
shown by Shanghai Erfangji Co., while Schlumberger showed a double-sided carpet-yarn machine with
autodoffing and sliver stop motions operating with a draft of 73.Compact Spinning The buzz word in
staple spinning at ITMA 99 was compact. While this term was originally used by Rieter to describe
its technology adopted from Fehrers DrefRing development, Rieter replaced the terminology with
comfort spinning and, ultimately, Com4. The technology is also termed condensed spinning by other
manufacturers. The concept behind this spinning technology is that the strand of fibers issuing
from the drafting system is condensed (usually pneumatically) and this gives the yarn a more
compact structure (See Photograph 1-all photos and figures are at the bottom of the page).In
compact spinning, the fibers are integrated more tightly into the yarn structure, resulting in
yarns that are less hairy, stronger, more extensible and lustrous. Fabrics produced from the yarns
are softer, stronger, have better abrasion resistance, and give better print and pattern
definition. In terms of processing advantages it is claimed that fewer end breaks occur during
spinning and, for certain end-uses, it is possible to reduce the spinning twist and thus increase
production on the ring frame. In downstream processing, it is claimed that the reduced hairiness
and increased strength give better performance in knitting and weaving. Indeed, because of the
improved surface characteristics of the yarns, it is claimed that singeing, sizing and waxing can
be eliminated. While four different systems of compact spinning namely, Suessen, MAL, Zinser and
Rieter were shown at ITMA 99, three different systems were exhibited at ATME-I 2000: Rieter showed
a new version of the Com4 system. The drafting system used is a double-apron system with two top
front rollers. The bottom front roll of the drafting system is perforated, and as the drafted
strand passes between the two top front rollers, the strand is condensed. The new system utilizes
one suction roller for each roving (and each spindle), unlike the system shown at ITMA, which used
shared drafting and suction roller for two rovings (See Photograph 2). The new system, which is
designated ComforSpin K44, is not yet available, but it is intended for combed cotton yarns.
Suessen exhibited the EliTe spinning system. Suessens implementation of compact spinning follows a
different approach than Rieter, in that the EliTe system is an addition to an existing drafting
unit. A perforated apron, through which suction is applied, is positioned after the bottom front
roller of the drafting system (See Figure 1). An additional top roller, which is gear- driven from
the top front drafting roller, forms a nip with the apron and drives it through friction. Because
the additional top roll is slightly larger than the front roll, a small tension (draft) is applied
in the condensing zone. The suction through the perforated apron is applied through a narrow angled
slot in the tubular profile (the tube that supports the apron). This condenses the fiber strand and
is claimed to cause the fiber assembly to rotate around its own axis so that the fiber ends are
closely embedded into the fiber assembly (See Photograph 3). Suessen announced it can now retrofit
the EliTe Spinning System to existing ring frames. A possible advantage of this system is that it
is relatively easy to revert back to normal spinning with the removal of the perforated apron and
the extra top roll. A further claimed advantage is that almost all short-staple fibers can be
processed on the EliTe system (both carded and combed). Marzoli had a static demonstration of its
Olfil system, which resembles the Suessen system in that it also uses a bottom perforated apron and
an extra top front roller. The Olfil system is still under development and not yet commercially
available. The major difference between these two systems is that, whereas Suessen utilizes a
bottom perforated apron that extends back into the nip of the normal front roller, the Marzoli
system uses a bottom roller around which the perforated apron passes. This implies that the Suessen
system has greater control of the issuing strand. Indeed, a video of the Olfil system showed a lot
of freedom for the fibers as they passed to the suction roller. An additional difference between
Suessen and Marzoli is that, while they both use slightly different roller sizes to promote the
tension in the condensing zone, Marzoli use a timing-belt drive, whereas Suessen uses a gear
drive.One observation on compact spinning is that the improvement in yarn processing due to the
higher strength and lower hairiness does carry a small penalty. The reduction in hairiness reduces
the amount of air carried with the yarn, which can result in hotter running of the traveler, which
shortens traveler life. It may thus be necessary to use slightly slower spindle speeds when
operating compact spinning frames. A further interest is that Rieter has attempted to quantify a
COM4 value, which is defined as: COM4-value = 100,000/(yarn twist * yarn hairiness) where twist is
turns per meter (T/m) and hairiness is measured with UT3 or 4. Higher values represent compact
yarns of better quality.Rotor Spinning There was little new in rotor spinning and indeed the only
machine shown was a Schlafhorst Autocoro SE 8 machine, which had been modernized using Suessen
upgrade components. The main feature of the conversion is the use of the SC 1-M spin box, which is
claimed to offer improved fiber control during combing of the fiber beard, coupled with improved
aerodynamics. The machine was also shown spinning Ne 20 yarn (50/50-percent polyester/cotton) at
116,000 revolutions per minute (revs/min) and 204 m/min. An additional feature of the conversion is
the use of a new piecer carriage that no longer required the use of a starter yarn. It is evident
that the modernization of rotor machines is currently an attractive alternative to purchasing new
machines.Vortex Spinning Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) (See Photograph 4) was initially unveiled at
the OTEMAS exhibition. It has aroused a lot of interest because of the claimed possibility of
spinning 100-percent cotton at high production speeds (maximum 400 m/min). The system is best
viewed as a development of jet spinning, as available information indicates that the yarn produced
is fasciated. It was interesting to note that while three machines were exhibited at OTEMAS, only
one machine was shown at ITMA and ATME-I. The reasoning given was that, when shown earlier, the
machinery was under development and different configurations were being used, whereas the
configuration is now finalized. The MVS 851 machine shown at the exhibition was very impressive
spinning 100-percent carded cotton into Ne30 yarn at 350 m/min. It is clear that this system offers
major production advantages over other spinning systems (See Figure 2). Yarns and fabrics produced
are regarded as ring-like (See Photograph 5), and there have been claims that, in some respects,
they resemble combed cotton products. There are, however, significant fiber losses associated with
this system, and while it has been claimed that most of the loss is short fiber, figures of fiber
waste of 5 to 8 percent have been quoted. The system has undergone development in U.S. mills for
several years, and significant quantities of yarn are being commercially produced. It was claimed
that 200 machines are presently installed. Historically, successful spinning systems have doubled
in production speed within eight years of their introduction. Based on this maxim, it would appear
that the future looks exciting for MVS, but to realize the full potential of the system,
significant developments in drafting and winding technology may be necessary. Areas Of
Significant InterestConversations with exhibitors and representatives of the spinning industry
indicated that there is significant interest in two areas of quality control the monitoring (and
control) of moisture content and the detection and elimination of foreign materials. While these
areas have for many years been regarded as very important to worsted and woolen spinners, their
significance for cotton spinning is just being recognized. Moisture measurement and control is
important with respect to both the ease of fiber processing (and hence, yarn quality) and the
management of materials within the mill. Different sensors and approaches are offered by different
manufacturers, but the main areas of measurement are the input and the final product. Systems for
monitoring bales are available from, for example, Streat, Forte and Malcam. These units can monitor
the moisture content of unopened bales. Fortes system uses harmless electromagnetic waves. Monitors
placed on either side of the conveyor register the regain of the bale. Malcam utilizes microwaves
and claims they not only measure average moisture content, but can also detect wet spots, hot spots
and large foreign matter in the bale. These systems could also potentially be used for moving fiber
webs. In this area, Mahlo offers a multifunctional web-scanning device, which can use either
infrared or microwave moisture sensors (depending on the web characteristics). Additional sensors
can be used for measurement of the thickness and weight of the webs. Single yarn packages can be
assessed for moisture content using non-contact systems from Forte and Malcam. While the Forte
system claims to be able to assess the moisture content of palletized yarn packages, Malcam prefers
to sample individual packages. Foreign material detection and removal, including other unwanted
debris, can be achieved at many stages of processing. Intuitively, the earlier in the processing
stage the defect is removed, the better, because the impurity is coherent, and thus early removal
prevents its spreading to a larger volume. Unfortunately, in order to remove the impurity, it has
to be identified, which, in turn, requires that the fibers be at least partially opened. In
general, the systems use a camera system to scan the fiber tufts (See Figure 3) and then eject
unwanted material, usually with the assistance of jets of air (See Photograph 6). Systems working
at the early stages of the opening line are available from Uster, Barco and Jossi. The Vision
Shield Compact system offered by Jossi (marketed through Rieter), of which there are presently 350
installations, was shown to be capable of removing small tufts of colored fibers and small sections
of film (about 2 inches by 2 inches). Truetzschlers new Securomat SCFO system works at the deduster
stage, during which the fibers are well opened, and thus enables easier identification and removal
of foreign materials. Optical sensing devices offer the potential of foreign material
identification but not removal at the draw frame. The final stage of foreign material removal is at
the clearing stage, which can be during winding of ring yarn and spinning of rotor, jet or vortex
yarns. Uster and Loepfe (Barco) are well-known in this area, but other manufacturers of optical
sensing devices could also enter this market. It was interesting to note that Loepfe has created a
Foreign Fiber Standard, which is a table showing the classification for foreign fiber defects in
yarns.The limitation of the current systems is that they rely on distinct color differences between
the raw material and the foreign materials. Unfortunately, some of the foreign materials may be
very similar to the normal fibers, and thus defects will not show until after coloration.
 ConclusionThere is no doubt that staple spinning is at the forefront of technology in terms
of automation and productivity. In addition, there are greater possibilities for improving yarn
quality by utilizing online and offline monitoring and control devices. However, it was evident at
ATME-I that alternatives to staple spinning are also making significant strides that may ultimately
lead to products that directly compete with those traditionally made from staple-spun yarns.
Visitors to ATME-I must have noticed the considerable amount of activity associated with the use of
air to twist, texture, intermingle, and cover filament yarns. There are also major breakthroughs
taking place in nonwovens technology, with respect to both productivity and fabric
properties. 

Photograph 1: Compact (right) versus “normal” ring-spun yarn

Photograph 2: Rieter Com4 (as shown at ITMA 99) 

Photograph 3: Fibers issuing from normal (left) and EliTe (right) drafting systems

Photograph 4: Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS)

Photograph 5 (top to bottom): MVS, ring-, and rotor-spun yarn

Photograph 6: Jets for ejecting foreign fibers 

Figure 1: Suessen EliTe System

Figure 2: Production comparisons for MVS

Figure 3: Truetzschler Securomat
Editor’s Note: This is the second of a three-installment report by ATI about the ATME-I 2000
show held this past October in Greenville, S.C. Next month, ATI concludes its coverage with a
report on nonwovens technology by Technical Editor Richard Mansfield.

January 2001

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