Warp Speed

Weaving PreparationBy Jim Phillips, Executive Editor Warp Speed
Drawing-in, warping and sizing programs save time, decrease cost. Weaving is an
ancient art, dating back more than 7,000 years to when the first baskets were woven from the reeds
that grew along the Nile River in Egypt.And for about as long as mankind has been inserting weft
into warp in some form or fashion, research has been underway to improve the speed of the process,
the quality of the finished product and the weavability of materials.Today, of course, weaving has
evolved into a high-speed, high-technology craft that stresses components and allows little margin
for error. The demands of a global marketplace have put increased pressure on weavers for quick
turnaround, so time to change from one style to another takes on added importance. Much has been
written about the modern weaving machines from such companies as Picanol, Sulzer, Promatech,
Dornier, Toyota, Tsudakoma and others. But an often neglected aspect of technology is the range of
machinery, between spinning and weaving, that enhances yarn properties and creates efficiencies
that allow for faster, better fabric formation. Drawing- And Tying-In

Among the most laborious of all textile processes is the drawing-in and tying-in of warp
yarns. Most plants throughout the world continue to do this process by hand. Stli Corp. of
Spartanburg, a well-known manufacturer of dobbies and jacquard heads, however, has systems
available that automate this process and save significant time and labor.There are so many
advantages to this system, said Don Hunt, the companys manager of textile systems. By hand,
drawing-in is a struggle that requires a lot of labor and a lot of time. But with our systems, such
as the Delta 100 and 110, a single person can draw in up to four warps in eight hours. With two
draw-in trucks and two people, up to eight warps can be drawn-in in a day. The number of warps that
can be drawn-in depends upon the average number of warp threads per warp and the warp material.Adds
Ludovic Petrois, sales technical administrator: The speed of these systems is up to 100 threads per
minute. This adds a tremendous amount of flexibility for the weaver and allows a quick changeover
in order to respond to market demands.The Stli Delta 100 is designed for filament weaving mills
that draw warp threads into the heddles and reeds, but which use no drop wires. The Delta 110 draws
in the warp threads through the drop wires, heddles and reeds in a single operation.For tying-in,
the Stli Topmatic Tying System features reliable formation of up to 600 knots per minute, Petrois
said.  Saving Sizing Costs

In an era in which every penny spent for raw materials and labor must be carefully
scrutinized, a number of proactive textile machinery manufacturers have looked for ways to save
their customers money in virtually every step of the manufacturing process. It is to this end that
West Point Foundry and Machine Co., West Point, Ga., has developed its SAS Pre-Wet (PW) Sizing
System. The SAS-PW system uses patented technology to apply atomized water to warp yarns before
they enter the size box. Sizing is, of course, the application of chemicals usually starch, acrylic
esters, polyvinyl alcohol, wax, carboxymethyl cellulose to warp yarns in order to lubricate them in
preparation for weaving, as well as to provide additional strength and smoothness.The West Point
SAS system, according to Scott Warren, general sales manager, is unique in that it precisely
controls the volume of water applied to the warp yarns in order to maintain consistent water wet
pick-up. Also, the system is designed to increase the dwell time between the pre-wet chamber and
size box to maximize water penetration. Warren said studies of pre-wet sizing have shown that size
chemical costs can be reduced by as much as 20 to 50 percent, depending upon yarn styles, without
affecting weaving efficiency. This reduction, he said, is the result of applying water to the warp
yarn before sizing. The water penetrates into the center of the yarn so the sizing material is only
applied to the outer surface of the yarn bundle, reducing the amount of sizing chemicals required
for efficient weaving.Sizing chemicals are the single largest daily cost in this process, Warren
said. The SAS-PW is the lowest-cost pre-wet system available. It has a self-contained control
system and a narrow footprint that will allow it to run on any slasher, regardless of space
limitations or equipment manufacturer.  WarpingIn warping, West Points newly designed Model
UWP Warper is designed to accommodate section beam diameters up to 40 inches (1,000 millimeters).
Other features include a pneumatically operated press roll with table doffing, West Points patented
End-Uncrossing Device, and color touch-screen controls. The Model UWP Warper is also equipped with
the companys dust particle collector, which is designed to capture significant amounts of fine dust
particles into the plants air filtration system.Sucker-Muller-Hacoba, Germany, (Symtech,
Spartanburg), offers the Toptronic 2000 sectional warper, which provides fully electronic
determination of the warp table traverse and section positioning. The machine features warping
speeds up to 800 meters per minute (m/min) and beaming speeds up to 300 m/min. As well, the
Toptronic is able to automatically calculate feed from the first meter of the warp, using either
short sample sections or full-length beams. 

Benninger Co. Ltd., Switzerland, also represented by Symtech, has the Ben-Direct direct
warper, introduced in 2000, which now has more than 100 installations worldwide. The warper,
according to the company, features exact cylindrical winding, high-precision uncrossed thread
laying, precise length and assured winding density.The Ben-Tronic sectional warper features
universal capability for all staple fiber yarns, as well as textile and technical filaments.
Benninger says the sectional warper guarantees uniform length of all ends, which are wound under
absolutely equal tension.
April 2002

Under Cover

Part 2: Intimate Apparel RoundupBy Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent Under Cover
Comfort and performance are hidden assets in some of today’s high-tech intimate apparel
fabrics.
 

Among the developments prevalent in the intimate apparel market are new yarns that enhance
both appearance and comfort. Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi, for example, introduced 18 new specialty
yarns last year. Unifi is developing new yarns, modifying and combining existing yarns to provide
innovative products for specific end-uses, said Jay Hertwig, global product development manager.
Many are seeing success in intimate apparel, activewear and swimwear. Novva is a soft, textured
yarn that has the luster of a flat yarn. It is going into seamless, circular and warp knits.Mynx is
a super-soft nylon described as having the strength of a synthetic and the beauty of a natural
fiber. It provides knitted fabrics with a cool, smooth hand, soft drape and subdued luster.Sorbtek
is a breathable, lightweight, easy-care yarn with the ability to move moisture faster and further
than any other yarn on the market today, according to Unifi. It is going into seamless, circular
and warp knits and has had immediate success in activewear.A.M.Y. is a new high-performance
antimicrobial yarn with permanent odor-control properties engineered directly into the
yarn.Recently, Unifi formed a joint venture with Israeli nylon producer Nilit Ltd. Products
developed will come out under the UNF label. One recent introduction is Sensil Arafelle. Arafelle
the Hebrew word for fog is 100-percent nylon 6,6, which can be piece-dyed for tonal, heathered
effects. It has a cotton-like touch and is aimed at lingerie, activewear, swimwear and legwear
markets. Arafelle has been adapted by Sara Lee Hosiery.Kimberley Lewis, marketing manager, Unifi,
sees intimate apparel focused around sheer fabrics with subtle luster and control. There will be
emphasis on comfort achieved through stretch and engineered yarns, she said. FabricsOne of the
fastest-growing knitters catering to the intimate apparel market is McMurray Fabrics, a
family-owned firm with three factories in North Carolina. In 2001, the company purchased the
circular-knit business, as well as the warp-knit elastic fabrics plant in Jamesville, N.C., from
Sara Lees Liberty Division.Kim Williams, director of design and apparel merchandising, said there
will be an inventory correction. She sees a business pickup well before the end of the year.For
bras and panties, Williams reports that a lot of sheer, power-net fabrics are still turning up.
Reporting on the Interfili show in Paris, she said prints and embellishments were some of the
newest lingerie developments. Mesh with lace overlays, metallic and lacquered surfaces, laser-cut
edges, ruffles and jewelry-type applications were all there. A lot of stripes were shown, along
with small, random florals, geometrics that resemble computer printouts, and the look of
denim.Clean piqu#44; small box-patterned jacquards and matte/sheen surfaces are other looks
Williams mentioned. And its all about nylon and microdenier nylon, she said. Colors are brighter.
There are a lot of pinks and blues that look like gum-drop candy colors, and a lot of red and
white.Going forward, Williams mentioned antibacterial and anti-odor fabrics. She sees these going
into socks and activewear, as well as items such as the sports bra. Fabrics In Demand

Debra Cobb, merchandising director, Ge-Ray Fabrics, said, Lace, shimmer, silky and sexy
fabrics will always be there, but fashion is less important. Performance and comfort are what sells
today.Were looking at new fibers and yarns, Cobb continued. Last year, we came out with our Xen
Collection, which is a blend of Supima/Micromodal. The fabrics are soft, relaxed and comfortable.
They are taking off for yoga wear, a very hot activity.French knitter Billon Frs reports lacy knits
are its biggest seller for lingerie. Very fine Lycra®-content fabrics, tiny floral-patterned
jacquards, diagonal stripes, lightweight fabrics with slick finishes or softly sueded surfaces are
other popular items. Color-reverse double-faced fabrics are also of note. Growth In North
AmericaVirgil Simons, general manager, United States, Dogi International Fabrics, said that value,
product innovation, quality and service are contributors to Dogis success. He added that with the
North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and the Caribbean Basin Initiative (CBI), there will be
major growth in North America. Dogi is headquartered in Spain, with marketing offices around the
world. You need to be there with your customer, Simons said.Dogi produces a variety of knitted and
woven apparel fabrics, including circular, single and warp knits; and electronic jacquards.
Eighty-four percent of its fabrics are sold for intimate apparel. Last April, the company acquired
four Penn Elastic factories from the Sara Lee Corp., giving them manufacturing capacity in Europe,
the Asia/Pacific region and the Americas.Simons sees growth in activewear, with areas like
cheerleading and classical dance being exceptional. Danskin and Capezio are some of the companies
Dogi sells to in this area. The activewear line takes its direction from fashion and adds
performance. A sanded microdenier fabric for warm-ups is knitted using Meryl®/ Lycra.
Supplex®/Lycra in solid rib coordinates is going into juniors.A recent innovation for intimate
apparel and dancewear is stretch fabrics with engineered zones, providing more stretch in certain
portions of the fabric. Extra muscle support in key areas relieves fatigue; softer stretch in other
areas gives extra comfort.Narrow-width fabrics with selvages that provide clean, finished edges;
moldable fabrics for the bra market; and moisture-transport mesh are other recent Dogi
developments.For mens underwear, Dogi is selling a heather-shaded cotton/nylon/ Lycra opaque/sheer
stripe. A lot of the same fabrics are selling for underfashions for men and women. Victorias
Secret, Vanity Fair and Triumph are among the companys customers. New TechnologiesNew fabrics
introduced at Interfili by the British company Berne-Welbeck focus on new technology to provide
both fashion and performance. Airpak® two-sided fabrics with cushioned centers were shown at
Premiere Vision in October 2001. This range is now available embossed with a broad design
selection. Airpak fabrics are breathable, moldable and easy-care.A group of lux surface effects
includes transparent polyester meshes with embossed designs, wet-look sheers, moirffects and cir
There are iridescent fabrics that have a fluid appearance, and jacquards and coordinates with a
shimmering luster.Other Berne-Welbeck fabrics for intimate apparel are knitted with DuPonts Tactel®
Strata. These include monofilament stripes, metallics and two-colored jacquards. A range described
as Second Skin fabrics has a paper touch or silky hand. The Natural Collection incorporates viscose
with elastane and ProModal to impart a natural touch.There are moisture-management fabrics
containing Supplex and Coolmax® in a Berne-Welbeck collection called Sporty. These include ribs and
tubular jacquards for swimwear and activewear.X-Static®, the silver-coated textile fiber from Noble
Fiber Technologies is going into a broad range of new fabrics in both filament and spun varieties.
At Premiere Vision, Berne-Welbeck featured X-Static in a fabric collection for bras and sportswear.
Fabrics have thermodynamic properties, and are anti-static and anti-odor.The Star Groups Lance T.
Whitaker, vice president, sales and marketing, said that in narrow fabrics, as a secondary
supplier, we have less control. With full-package manufacturing now coming out of the CBI, sources
can become hidden. Because were not the main part of the garment, it is difficult to mandate that
they use our product.The Star Groups answer is to become more innovative. Some of its recent
developments are microdenier channeling for glue bras; sonic seaming for nylon taffeta; and
micro-brushed products providing added comfort for bras. Our narrow fabrics and trimmings give
intimate apparel both visual and tactile appeal, said Whitaker. FashionThe number-one selling
bra in America today is Vanity Fairs (VF) Illumination, a lightly lined seamless bra knitted with
Tactel Strata. In panties, the best-sellers are low-rise seamless styles knitted in
microfibers.Vanity Fairs Ellen Rohde, president, VF Intimates, reports there will be a return to
shine and femininity for Spring/Summer 03. Lace is cyclical and on the upswing. Underwire bras are
also in an up-cycle. Seamless, molded and racer-back bras are other popular items, she said. There
is a resurgence of cotton and cotton-touch fabrics. Cotton connotes comfort, she added. Alice
Papazian, who handles color development and print design for VF Intimates, said colors of inner
fashion closely follow outerwear. Bras and camis have been designed to show.For Spring, Papazian
shows three color ranges: washed-out and whitened pales; vintage shades; and fun, young brights.
And there will be a lot of white. She sees a continuation of sheers, embroidery and lace.By the end
of the year, all VF apparel production in the United States will cease. Garments will come from
Mexico, the Caribbean Basin and the Far East. 

At Jockey International, Anne Ewing, senior designer, Intimates, Jockey Brand, said, Intimate
apparel is a comfort-driven product and not a high-ticket item. Our business is healthy.A year ago,
Jockey introduced a line called No Panty Line Promise. It was an instant success. This year, it has
added a mesh collection knitted in a blend of 80-percent Tactel and 20-percent Lycra. There are
thong, brief and bikini styles with coordinating bras. 

The Jockey Spring 03 collection is all about comfort. There are cotton/Lycra fabrics knitted
using Santoni seamless machines, as well as nylon/Lycra- and microdenier-content fabrics. Ewing
shows a lot of lace. Some is cross-dyed in fashion colors. Most is shown in coordinating sets. New
prints are floral and leaf designs and all-over metallic to give a shimmer to garments. Bra styles
are underwires, padded with seamless cups, and softer, under-constructed styles. Many use bonded
fabrics and are almost stitch-free, made with ultrasonic and seamless equipment. Seam-free
underwire bras using a flat wire are new.Colors are more sophisticated with outerwear influences. A
small, outlined floral is shown in a combination of black on gray. For Spring 03, Ewing said colors
will be soft and feminine. Along with bras and panties, there are coordinating camis. Some are
ruffled and lace-trimmed, others are padded. Plus sizes are available in a lot of styles.  At
Liz Claiborne Intimates, a full-fit collection was recently introduced that is fashionable,
lightweight and sexy. One popular bra is the seamless minimizer, available in soft, stretch lace
with mesh details that reduce the cup by one entire size.
Editor’s Note: In March, Textile World published the first of a two-part feature about the
hottest trends in the intimate apparel industry. In this issue, New York Correspondent Virginia S.
Borland continues her look at the products and processes that are turning heads in this dynamic
market segment.
April 2002

Singapore Trade Agreement May Include Strict Rule Of Origin For Textiles

By James A. Morrissey, Washington CorrespondentU.S. government trade officials are supporting a
“yarn forward” rule of origin in a proposed U.S.-Singapore Free Trade agreement, a move that
pleases U.S. textile manufacturers but gives importers and overseas exporters heartburn. The rule
of origin would be similar to that of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), which
requires products benefiting from the free trade pact to be made with yarn and fabric in the
participating nations. It is designed to help the U.S. textile industry and guard against
transshipments of apparel where the yarn or fabric may be made in another country. The U.S.
Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel has told the U.S. Trade representative that a
NAFTA-like rule of origin for Singapore would be “inappropriate” and said, instead, a “substantial
transformation standard” with a 35-percent value-added requirement would make more sense. The
Singapore Free Trade Agreement is particularly significant, since the U.S. Trade Representative has
announced plans to expand it to include Indonesia.

Q-Panel Offers Q-B Filter For Automotive Testing

Q-Panel Offers Q/B Filter For Automotive TestingCleveland-based Q-Panel Lab Products has developed
the Q/B filter for use in the Q-Sun Xenon Test Chamber to test light stability of automotive
materials. Q/B filters meet the spectral requirements specified in automotive standards SAE J1885
and SAE J1960. The filters transmit a significant amount of short-wavelength ultraviolet (UV)
radiation below the sunlight cutoff of 295 nanometers (nm) a spectrum used to accelerate test
results for many materials.
April 2002

Avondale Mills Inc To Receive Textile Worlds 2002 Innovation Award

Textile World honors Avondale Mills Inc. with the 2002 Innovation Award for its continued
commitment to innovation, investment in technology and enduring ability to succeed.Thriving in
todays textile industry takes special skills blending quality, price competitiveness,
state-of-the-art technology and dedicated people, to achieve a niche in a competitive marketplace
constantly fine tuning a forward thinking strategy.With more than 155 years of operating history
“the oldest textile manufacturing concern in the United States” Avondale Inc. continues to invest
in the future with sales of more than $600 million and more than 5,600 associates.Avondale Mills
thrust of high-quality, low-cost production has served it well as a leader in utility wear fabrics,
denim, sales yarn and specialty products for the tent, awning and boatcover markets.As Craig S.
Crockard, corporate vice president, planning and development said in the May 2001 Success Stories
issue of Textile Industries, Avondale believes the United States is still a great place to
manufacture textiles, especially when the latest technology is employed. Producing textiles at a
very quick turn-around, of very good quality and at low cost are the key factors in Avondales
corporate strategy.Avondale Mills joins Textile Worlds annual Innovation Award honorees, which
include Johnston Industries, Parkdale, Swift, Mount Vernon and MillikenandCompany.

Industry Group Attacking Strong Dollar Problems

 Textile manufacturers have joined a broad-based coalition of labor industry and agriculture
interests who have launched a campaign against the strong dollar, which, they say, is raising havoc
in international trade. The Sound Dollar Caucus includes more than 40 trade associations
representing: textiles and textile machinery, steel, automobiles, paper and other forest products,
cotton, the AFL-CIO, and a wide range of other manufacturing industries.The U.S. dollar, which is
at a 16-year high, has the practical effect of making imports cheaper and raising the price tags on
American-made products abroad.The American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI), one of the
founders of the Sound Dollar Caucus, blames devalued Asian currencies and U.S. strong dollar
policies for many of its current economic woes. ATMI says that in the late 90s, the currencies of
almost all the major textile-exporting countries were devalued, causing a “shock wave of
artificially low-priced textile and apparel products to hit the United States.”While the strong
dollar obviously is causing problems, Secretary of the Treasury Paul H. ONeil has stoutly defended
the administrations currency policies. He says that well-managed companies can deal with the
strength of the dollar, and there is an underlying fear that a weaker dollar would rekindle
inflation.With the administrations heels dug in, the dollar caucus has turned to Capitol Hill for
help. Members of Congress have formed their own Sound Dollar Caucus, and while they are concerned
about the problem, no one seems to have a simple or specific solution. One avenue appears to be
something known as the “Plaza Accord,” which President Ronald Reagans Treasury Secretary James
Baker negotiated in the mid-1980s when the currency imbalance was about the same as it is today.
Baker met with the financial ministers of a number of major trading nations, and they agreed to
take steps to bring their currencies into a better alignment with the dollar. While that effort was
successful, it is uncertain if or when the Bush administration would be willing to undertake such a
venture.

BASF To Cut Back Charlotte Textile Chemical Operations

BASF To Cut BackCharlotte Textile Chemical OperationsGermany-based BASF Corp. announced the company will discontinue textile and leather dye manufacturing operations at its facility in Charlotte by the end of 2002. The Technical Service Center and Marketing and Customer Service Group will continue to operate from the Charlotte site. The changes will result in the loss of 59 jobs.April 2002

Schlafhorst Introduces Universal Spinning Navel

Schlafhorst IntroducesUniversal Spinning NavelGermany-based W. Schlafhorst AGandCo. has developed a new spinning navel, KS K 4, for universal use in spinning yarns for knitting and weaving applications. The company claims the new navel enables spinning of yarn having enhanced quality and superior performance in downstream production processes.In knitting, fiber fly from yarns spun using the KS K 4 is significantly reduced and cleaning intervals are extended, according to Schlafhorst. In weaving operations, the processing of such yarns can lead to reduced costs associated with air consumption by air-jet weaving machines.April 2001

HunterLab Celebrates 50th Anniversary

HunterLab Celebrates 50th AnniversaryThe year 2002 marks Reston, Va.-based HunterLabs 50th year in
business. The company was established in 1952 by Richard S. Hunter as Hunter Associates Laboratory
Inc., a development, testing and consulting firm specializing in solutions related to the color,
appearance and related optical properties of materials.Today, the employee-owned ISO-9001-certified
company develops and manufactures spectrophotometers and colorimeters, and provides solutions and
support for color identification, measurement and control for a range of industries including
textiles, food, plastics, chemicals, paints and coatings, and others.
April 2002

Process Control Offers EXT Touch-Screen Control Panel

Process Control Offers EXTTouch-Screen Control PanelAtlanta-based Process Control Corp. has developed the EXT Series operator interface control panel for use with gravimetric equipment. The panel provides a central operator point to monitor and control an unlimited number of gravimetric blenders and Gravitrol® extrusion and line-speed control systems. The touch-screen interface utilizes the PCCWeb® used on all Process Control computer-controlled products.Features include password-protected remote access through a high-speed Ethernet connection. Interface protocols are available for a number of special formats.April 2001

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