ITMA 2003 Global Marketplace

ITMA 2003: Global Marketplace
ITMA 2003 set a positive tone among machinery manufacturers for the future of textiles.The
124,910 visitors in attendance during the course of the eight-day ITMA 2003 shared with exhibitors
an overall optimism about the event. Housed in 20 halls at the National Exhibition Centre (NEC),
Birmingham, England, and covering more than 120,000 square meters of exhibition space, the latest
in textile technology from every sector of the industry was on display for the global textile
community. Rodger Hartwig, vice president, Symtech Inc., Spartanburg a representative of many firms
taking part in the show stated: This ITMA has been an excellent show. It is unfortunate that every
US customer didnt have a representative here. There are many new ideas that could benefit their
companies. The US industry would benefit from the positive atmosphere at this ITMA. Textiles
definitely has a future.ITMA 2003 Organizing Committee Exhibition Director Maria Avery reported
that 50 percent of visitors came from Europe, and almost 25 percent came from Asia, Southeast Asia
and the Middle East. Sixty percent of all visitors were at the director level and above.Italy-based
Savio S.p.A.s sales during the show confirmed a diverse visitor geography. This ITMA was a real
ITMA, not a surrogate, said Daniele Pellissetti, order administrator director. The attendees were
very high-quality. We sold machines to Turkey, China, Brazil and India. Also, we saw visitors from
unexpected countries like Argentina, and have finalized orders. The quality of the visitors and
global nature of the show have made the introduction of the new Flexirotor an important launch.
Savios FlexirotorS 3000 was on display for the first time at the show.Other suppliers in the
spinning sector reported positive results, despite pre-show jitters caused by major suppliers in
the sector withdrawing from the show. Hideki Ichikawa, general manager, sales department, Murata
Machinery Ltd., Japan, said: We believe it was a very important decision to attend. Worldwide
serious customers [from] Turkey, Bangladesh, India and more serious clients with fruitful meetings.
New winding and Vortex systems were well received and sold with good results. Company Chairman
Junichi Murata, and President and CEO Daisuke Murata explained that with 22 years dedicated to
Murata Jet Spinning and nine years to Murata Vortex Spinning, the company continues to develop yarn
manufacturing systems having ever greater performance and flexibility. The yarn package also is of
great importance in Murata development. The company claims the package can be used directly by the
fabric manufacturer without requiring additional clearing and winding steps.Marco Volpi, sales
support, Marzoli S.p.A., Italy, was optimistic about the future. Marzoli is progressive and
thinking to the future, he said. The C601 card is the beginning of a new line of machines, bringing
a new element of quality inside and out with technical improvements, as well as aesthetic
design.Spinning suppliers were well represented at the show despite the absence of some notables
and presented a variety of technologies. Trutzschler GmbHandCo., Germany, made full use of the
opportunity to literally unveil the new TC03 card on the first day of the show.

Tubular Textile Machinery, Lexington, N.C., was one of the many exhibitors in the dyeing and
finishing sector. Dyeing and finishing exhibitors at ITMA occupied the largest area 33 percent of
total floor space.Weaving Draws AttentionThe weaving sector was the largest visitor draw to ITMA
2003, according to show organizers. West Point, Ga.-based West Point Foundry and Machine Co.
President Pate Huguley said: It would have been a mistake not to come to ITMA 2003. Even with major
exhibitors pulling out, weve been pleased with the number of decision makers here. Denim prep and
corduroy-cutting machinery have been strong, as well as other products. We came presold on the
equipment on display, but we are looking at new projects one to three months out. Scott Warren,
general sales manager, added: Weve seen customers from Pakistan, India, Turkey and more. ITMA has
enabled us to reconnect with customers in this region.Even with the presence of well-known US
textile manufacturers visiting the show floor, numbers and ability to invest given the recent state
of the industry was often the topic of discussion. When asked about US attendance,
Spartanburg-based Sultex (USA) Inc. President Fritz Legler said: We saw many companies
approximately 70 from North America. We sold machines, air-jet and rapier, in North America, mainly
serving industrial and technical applications. Sultexs display was dominated by the L9400 air-jet
weaving machine with power leno designed for technical uses and carpet backing.Sultex also reported
the sale of 412 latest-generation projectile weaving machines to Tessival S.p.A., Italy. All of the
machines will be equipped with four-color weft insertion; tappet motions and electronically
controlled dobbies will be used for shedding. Tessivals product range includes fine poplins through
dense tickings, as well as loomstate clothing fabric and heavy bull denim. The company stated 156
weaving machines will partly replace existing machines in the Fiorano facility, and 256 weaving
machines will be housed in a new facility in Italy. Italy-based Promatech Commercial Director Fabio
Mazzucchetti remarked on the optimism at the event: We feel a positive movement, much less negative
than we expected. Weve sold both air-jet and rapier installations in Taiwan, India and Brazil. This
show creates an optimistic, positive future for textiles. Weve sold more here than at the Paris
ITMA, and weve noticed a high quality of people, extremely well prepared. It is not just speed they
are researching the details.This show was much more active than we expected, remarked Francesco
Cecchinato, area sales manager, SMIT S.p.A., Italy. SMIT recently emerged as a stand-alone company,
spun off from Sulzer Textil following the ITEMA Groups acquisition of Sulzer. The G6300s
new-generation GS900 and JS900 air-jet, both coming next year, saw great interest, Cecchinato said.
The terry version of the G6300 impressed clients, as did the one equipped to produce airbag
fabrics. We expect that 200 machines have been sold at the show in the China, Korea, Taiwan and
Japan sector, and another 600 machines will be placed in the first quarter. Without final figures,
we expect sales around the world of 1,000 machines have been concluded at the show.In a non-weaving
development, Egon Wirth, Germany-based Lindauer Dornier GmbHs marketing communication manager,
pointed out a new, patented development a magnetic guide for Dorniers circular expander. Magnetic
bearings allow contact-free fabric guidance.Marco Giamminola, managing director of Giorgio
GiamminolaandC S.p.A., Italy, agreed with the overall impressions of ITMA. The people here came to
gather real information not for tourism, he said. As a spare parts supplier and used weaving
machine company, we met clients and made new alliances. We have broadened our range of parts and
introduced our website, which makes the sales process even stronger.According to Belgium-based
Picanol NVs latest information, the companys weaving machines received a very positive reception at
ITMA. In terms of both new leads and new contracts, the company realized better-than-expected
results.Picanol expects 2004 will be a transition year and foresees the first recovery in 2005. In
2005, the new Olympica product platform, which will be launched by the end of this year at
ShanghaiTex, will be fully in the market. This is part of our strategy to secure new customers by
means of new type machines in geographic markets and niche segments where we have not been active
thus far. Following an initial order of 41 TERRYplus terry weaving machines in August, the order
for an additional 30 terry weaving machines destined for Brazil illustrates that we are on the
right track with our geographic focus. The recent order for 78 of the Olympica weaving machines by
a new Chinese customer in turn proves that our approach to accessing the niche segments is bearing
fruit, stated Jan Coene, president and CEO. In addition, we note that [Global Textile Partner], in
spite of a slower-than-anticipated start-up, is picking up impetus very nicely and will reach
regular cruising speed by 2005. Among the most active areas, the weaving halls had huge displays
from all the notable companies. Upcoming Textile World features will include technical details of
these machinery developments.

Schonherr Textilmaschinenbau GmbH, Germany, a member of the Stli Group, exhibited in the
weaving sector.Weaving sector visitors rose 4 percent over ITMA 99 attendance figures to comprise
18 percent of total visitors to the show.Beyond WeavingITMA 2003 offered much more than spinning
and weaving. Each sector of the industry was represented, with international companies vying for
the industrys attention. Some companies gained additional attention through the networking of
suppliers to the industry. John C. Blasman, CEO, Jomar Softcorp International Inc., Canada, stated
that ITMA gave us the opportunity to meet with traditional clients, as well as the textile
machinery manufacturers who are interested in implementation of our systems. Weve seen great
interest in on-line, Internet capabilities with interfaces to ERP, supply chain and outsourcing
solutions. Jomar has long been known for its textile manufacturing software and a number of
software solutions.According to the ITMA 2003 Organizing Committee, for the first time ever at
ITMA, there was a separate sector within the show for nonwovens, which incorporated all types of
machinery for web formation, bonding and finishing of nonwovens, and felting; and their
accessories. Sixty exhibitors showed their latest nonwovens technologies in a dedicated area of
11,000 square meters.The nonwovens area created quite a buzz at the show, with rumors flying that
major US placements had occurred. Given the activity on the show floor among venerable nonwovens
machinery firms and US clients, it would not be surprising, but at this writing, sales commitments
could not be confirmed.The knitting area of the show also held promise. With the separate
unaffiliated International Knitting Machinery Exhibition (IKME) held in Milan just prior to ITMA,
many knitting suppliers scrambled to ensure a presence at both shows (See the January 2004 issue of
TW for a review of IKME). Companies such as Groz-Beckert KG, Germany; Santoni S.p.A., Italy; Comez
S.p.A., Italy; and Kern-Liebers GmbH, Germany; pulled off a major presence at both venues.Digital
printing showed progress at the show. Wilmington, Del.-based DuPont Ink Jet Textiles Global Sales
and Service Manager Stephen J. Hurff noted: DuPont Artistri digital offerings in acid, reactives,
pigments and disperse have been really well received. At this global show, weve experienced strong
interest from Italy, Turkey, India, Pakistan and new interest from South America. DuPont sold the
pigment and disperse machines on display at the show, and its installed base will now exceed 20
units. The machines have attracted the attention of graphics and traditional textile
manufacturers.ITMA 2003 was also the first at which major dye and chemical suppliers held
significant space. BASF AG, Germany; CHT R. Beitlich GmbH, Germany; Clariant Ltd., Switzerland;
Cognis GmbHandCo. KG, Germany; DyStar, Germany; and other suppliers made presentations and promoted
their latest solutions many incorporating cross-technology developments with machinery suppliers,
such as DyStars involvement with Brazzoli S.p.A.s Innodye®/Innovat® system.Ciba Specialty
Chemicals, Switzerland, supported multiple chemical solutions, and in conjunction with Israel-based
Scitex Vision Ltd. and Reggiani Macchine S.p.A., Italy, presented the DReAM ink-jet printing
machine. Digital printing appears to be growing and continuing to meet the challenges of the analog
printing environment.The dyeing and finishing sectors were well represented by international
exhibitors. Jordi Argelich, textile dyeing machines sales and marketing manager, Argelich, Termes Y
Cia S.A., Spain, stated: We saw more people than we expected of the highest quality. We received
the opportunity to make offers and confirmed more sales than we expected. Our Rapidstretch machine
received the most interest. Turkey, Bangladesh, India and Pakistan were strong markets Asia is most
important. We see Brazil and Argentina coming on strong.An exhibit area that always seemed busy was
Biancalani S.p.A., Italy. Rossano Biancalani, general manager, confirmed that the sale of five
machines took place at ITMA, with new sales pending. Our customers are coming from all fields,
including knits and upholstery. We have had a good number of customers from the United States. Asia
and Turkey are also present. Interest is strong because our machines add value.Buddy Humphrey, vice
president, sales, Fort Lawn, S.C.-based Morrison Textile Machinery Co., stated: Overall, this has
been a very good show. Interest has been in the full range of products. Clients ranged from
Pakistan, India, Turkey and several from the US and China.Klaus A. Heinrichs, vice president,
marketing, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbHandCo. KG, Germany, said: Without official figures, we
are very pleased with the overseas visitors Turkey, Pakistan, Egypt and Italy and the level of
quality. We count this show as a great success for our company. We were gratified with the
logistics of the show; however, signage was a problem. Against all odds, this was a good show.ITMA
is a magnet for visitors. Even with ShanghaiTex [coming in December], we had visitors from Asia,
Heinrichs said. I believe this to be the number-one country and show for textile machinery
manufacturers.Henrichs brought to light a complaint of many visitors and exhibitors: The locations
of the exhibitors were difficult to find, and the booth location numbers were difficult to
navigate. The impact was marginal on large exhibitors such as Monforts, with its massive signage
and display areas. However, small exhibitors found navigation to be problematic. Hall 16
exhibitors, located on their own in the middle of the NEC complex, also had concerns about the
level of traffic due to the out-of-the-way location.

Whether looking for large carpet weaving looms from NV Michel Van de Wiele (above left),
Belgium, or testing equipment from James H. HealandCo. Ltd. (above right), England, the audience at
ITMA 2003 was global. Fifteen percent of visitors came from the United Kingdom, 7.8 percent from
Turkey, 7.5 from Germany, 6.6 percent from Italy and 6 percent from Pakistan. The United States, in
tenth position, made up 2.8 percent of total visitor figures.Pace QuickensAs the major
international textile event drew to a close, two points were clear: The pace of technological
development in textile processing is as strong as ever, if not stronger; and domestic and
international suppliers to the textile industry continue to invest in development and are bringing
textile solutions to the table. Those innovations will lead to increased productivity; increased
flexibility of plant output; and improved performance, hand and finish of textile products. In
future issues of TW, a range of technology-oriented overviews will highlight these industry
developments.In speaking with major technology suppliers, TW learned that US textile manufacturers
are working hard to attend and participate in events like ITMA, but the going is rough, given the
domestic US manufacturing environment. The investments most commonplace when referenced in
interviews from the exhibit floor pointed to Turkey, India, Pakistan and Asia as hot markets for
technology. In an interesting aside, one US industry manufacturer commented that the competition
facing US manufacturers in textiles will soon hit machinery suppliers. With more than 700 textile
machinery manufacturers in China, only time will tell if the technology suppliers will also soon
feel the pinch in the global marketplace.

December 2003

Detecting Air Leaks

Handheld instruments such as U.E. Systems’ Ultraprobe can be used to detect air leaks in
compressed air pipelines.Detecting Air Leaks
Using ultrasonic technologies to test for air leaks can save textile manufacturers thousands of
dollars in wasted air and energy.It is hardly surprising that the industry that uses the most
compressed air in its manufacturing processes is also the one most likely to waste air. What is
surprising, however, is how often the waste goes undetected especially when air leaks can easily be
detected with ultrasonic technology and the exact cost of the waste can be measured, according to
Alan Urwick, director, Anovotek Energy, Clinton, S.C.Anovotek Energy provides consulting services
and energy audits for industrial manufacturers. For the last few years, the companys focus has been
primarily on the textile industry. Using an industry standard to calculate the loss, Urwick found
that a plant that spends more than a million dollars a year on compressed air can lose anywhere
from $75,000 to $100,000 in wasted air through leaks if it does not have a leak management program.
Urwick based these figures on the energy standard number for the cost of compressed air 19 cents
per 1,000 cubic feet, 4 cents per kilowatt-hour of electricity. Using Ultrasound To Find The
LeaksSince the advent of air-jet technology in yarn and fabric formation, the textile industry has
become the largest user of compressed air. According to Urwick, most companies have several
powerful compressors that deliver thousands of cubic feet of air per minute to the manufacturing
processes including ancillary processes such as static pneumatic functions. In some fabric
formation processes, air does the work: A stream of compressed air carries the yarn across the
air-jet machine that weaves the fabric. In air-jet spinning, two nozzles of air positioned in just
the right way twist the fibers to make the yarn. To find air leaks, Urwick and his team rely on
ultrasonics to pick up sounds that the human ear cannot. Pressure and vacuum leaks produce a
turbulent flow, which has strong ultrasonic components, Urwick explained. And leaks can be located
more easily while the system is under pressure.When using a handheld ultrasonic instrument such as
the Ultraprobe, manufactured by U.E. Systems Inc., Elmsford, N.Y. the inspector puts on headphones
and listens for the telltale sounds of air leaks by waving the instrument around like a wand and
pointing it towards pipes and fittings. The instrument picks up leaks close by and as far as 50
feet away.We begin the inspection by creating a series of zones to prevent the possibility of
overlooking a section and missing some leaks, Urwick explained. We dont look at the places where
air is being supplied to the process or at the point where its being used, because air is expected
to leak there. Instead, we go to the regulators, the filters and the solenoids that activate the
machines. The method for detecting leaks with ultrasonics is straightforward. An inspector scans
the lines, listening for the distinct rushing sounds that signal compressed air leaks. Continuously
adjusting the instruments sensitivity/volume control, he follows the sound until the loudest point
is heard. Since ultrasound is a short wave signal, an inspector can discriminate between irrelevant
background noises and the actual leak signal. A rubber focusing probe is then attached to the
instrument, narrowing the area of reception to shield against competing ultrasounds. This helps to
isolate and pinpoint the exact location of small leaks. Throughout the inspection procedure, close
attention is paid to problems such as loud leaks that can be spotted and tagged without the aid of
an ultrasonic detector. Even with ultrasonics, the human element plays a role. Urwick and his team
have developed experienced ears over time, which help them determine the size of a leak. Draining
The BudgetUndetected leaks can be an unnecessary drain on a companys operating budget, and without
ultrasonics technology, testing would be virtually impossible, according to Urwick. With as many as
400 machines, each with 10 to 15 connections, using the sudsy bubble test would be a tedious and
time-consuming job. Urwick said. In the past, technicians would walk through the manufacturing
rooms on a Sunday when the plant was closed, relying on the human ear to spot leaks. Unfortunately,
this is not a very effective method, Urwick said, as most leaks occur only when machines are
running. According to Urwick, a typical facility with 300 weaving machines and 40 to 60 spinning
frames can require two people eight to 10 hours to conduct an ultrasonic leak survey. Leak checking
takes this long because it is extremely comprehensive, and inspectors have to open the panels on
every machine, Urwick explained. Once the survey is completed, inspectors record their data and
write a very detailed list of where the leaks are, their sizes, and what they are costing the
company each month. The report is sent to the appropriate department for repairs. It is not
unreasonable to expect that most facilities can cut down 5 to 10 percent of their compressed air
costs simply by implementing a leak detection and repair program, Urwick said.In addition to
locating leaks, Anovotek Energy uses ultrasonics to listen to and evaluate the function of steam
traps, he added. We have also used ultrasound to monitor motor bearings to learn if they are
performing as they should. However, it is as a leak detector that we find ultrasonics technology
most effective. For many companies, compressed air has become as essential a utility as electricity
or water. Urwick concluded, When you can measure your air loss exactly, it makes a very powerful
case for leak detection with ultrasonics.
Editors Note: Alan S. Bandes is vice president, marketing, U.E. Systems Inc.

December 2003

Material World Looks Ahead

The Fall 2003 edition of Material World, an event of the American ApparelandFootwear
Association (AAFA), held recently in Miami Beach, Fla., was the focal point for the garment
sourcing supply chain. Visitors saw the latest in products, met suppliers and took advantage of
networking opportunities. This edition of the show, however, also set the stage for change. The
Spring 2004 show, to be held May 18-20, will take on special importance with the co-location of the
Sewn Products EquipmentandSuppliers of the Americas (SPESA) Expo 2004, as well as the second
edition of Technology Solutions an information technology event jointly owned and produced by
SPESA, AAFA and Urban Expositions, owner and producer of Material World.The Fall 2003 Material
World the fifth edition of the show saw a 12-percent increase in attendance over the Fall 2002
event. In addition to offering educational programs, the show aspires to be a true full-package
sourcing, fabric and fashion information event. This editions 373 exhibiting companies presented a
broad array of products including fabric, trim and yarn; educational institutions; contractors;
manufacturers; technology (CAD, PDM, Web-enabled solutions); full-package providers; services such
as freight forwarding, financial, and color/trend forecasting; associations; and more.This was our
most successful edition to date, and we were especially pleased with the increase in high-level
retail traffic and attendance from other key top decision-makers from the industry, said Tim von
Gal, executive vice president, Urban Expositions.Material World has really reached its stride as a
complete destination for the sewn products industry, remarked Kevin M. Burke, president and CEO,
AAFA.The organizers state that, in addition to Material Worlds exclusive alliance with AAFA, the
show enjoys the support and endorsement of the American Apparel Producers Network (AAPNetwork), the
National Textile Association, the Textile Distributors Association, the American Yarn Spinners
Association, and the Office of Textiles and Apparel of the US Department of Commerce, as well as a
number of other important international industry associations.The May 2004 event, promoted as Three
Great Events Under One Roof, promises to extend value to exhibitors and attendees. Recognizing that
the sewn products industry has changed dramatically over the past few years, SPESA and Urban
Expositions believe that the industry is best served if visitors can see all the major components
of the sewn products industry in one place, at one time, von Gal said. While each exhibition will
retain its own identity and deliver its own message, the co-location of SPESA Expo and Material
World will provide the attendee a seamless opportunity to visit both shows, said Benton Gardner,
executive vice president, SPESA.

The eWarna sales team promoted its on-line color collaboration color engine, which links
color solutions via the Internet.

Members of the Bayer Chemicals sales team presented BayProtect protective finishes.

The Fall 2003 edition of Material World attracted a diverse gatheringof exhibitors and
attendees for the most successful edition to date.

Mount Vernon Mills displayed Career Wear, among other products.

New Generation Computing was on hand with technology solutions.

Left to right: Tom H. DePuit, Bob Fudge and John Paleczny, Thermopatch Corp.

Sue Strickland, executive director, AAPNetwork

Organizers and sponsors of Three Great Events Under One Roof gathered to explain and promote
the 2004 co-location of Material World, SPESA Expo and Technology Solutions events.

December 2003

Bakron Presents TORLON 35 Sewing Machine Parts

Bakron PresentsTORLON® 4435 Sewing Machine PartsBakron Corp., Buffalo Grove, Ill., now manufactures
hooks, bobbins and bobbin baskets using Alpharetta, Ga.-based Solvay Advanced Polymers LLCs TORLON®
4435 polyamide-imide polymer. The company says the new parts require no lubrication and minimal
adjustment, and dont stick or slip, allowing sewing machines to run at speeds approaching 9,000
revolutions per minute. In addition, they are flexible enough to allow slight variations between
upper and lower thread tensions, an advantage in light-tension stitching.

December 2003

European Focus

At the recent Fil Event, exhibitors showed weaving yarns for Spring/Summer 2005. The show
will be replaced by Expofil in February 2004.New fibers, new finishing treatments and
embellishments were the focus at recent textile trade shows in Europe. In Italy at Moda In and
Shirt Avenue, and in Paris at Premiere Vision and its satellite shows Fil Event and Indigo, the
emphasis was on creativity. Fabrics made from soy beans, finishes developed to repel grease and
liquids, laser-cut double cloths, metallic adornments, embroideries and appliquattracted buyers
attention. Even classic checks and tartans had added finishing touches.At Moda In, a total of 426
companies exhibited their latest collections. Trend consultant Angelo Uslenghi prepared Fall/Winter
2004-05 fashion and color statements in three themes Firm, Mild and Bold. Uslenghi said wool plays
the leading role, but it is treated in unconventional ways. In the Firm group, colors were tonal
and neutral or slightly grayed. Mild colors were soft and warm. A lot of the fabrics had a velvet
touch. In the Bold category, there were large-scale patterns, frequently colored in black and white
with a splash of bright.At Shirt Avenue, where the focus was entirely on quality shirting fabrics,
visitors were serious buyers. Many of the 35 exhibitors showed classic, fashion and sportswear
ranges. Stripes and clean finishes were favored in classic ranges, jacquards and soft finishes with
a vintage quality turned up for fashion. Sportswear shirtings tended to be dyed in dark colors;
woven with twisted yarns; and embroidered, printed or otherwise embellished. Many exhibitors at
Shirt Avenue noted that sales are up for womenswear, where stretch is popular. Sportswear is
overtaking traditional. New Fiber DevelopmentsAt Moda In, INVISTA Inc., Wilmington, Del., promoted
three areas Teflon®, Linen plus Lycra® and leather with Lycra. The company used the Premiere Vision
venue to introduce Advanced Teflon fabric protector with Dual Action Repel and Release system. This
new product repels liquids and prevents fibers from holding stains and soil, so they wash away
easily during laundering.At Premiere Vision, Dow Fiber Solutions, Midland, Mich., held its first
birthday party for DOW XLA lastol stretch fiber. With a successful launch in the better shirting
market, product is available at retail in Europe, and in US stores beginning this month. New focus
areas are casual sportswear, denim and uniforms. Dow also is working on blending XLA with wool, and
looking at the swimwear market because the fiber stands up well to chlorine, salt and sun.Dow XLA
was shown blended with cotton at Shirt Avenue, Moda In and Premiere Vision. Cotonificio Albini
S.p.A., Arco Texteis S.A., Emanuel Lang Textiles, Tejidos Royo, Decouvelaere S.A. and F.M. Herle
are some of the companies using this fiber.At Fil Event, Unifi Inc., Greensboro, focused on
performance yarns for added comfort. Fabrics that dont bag, wash and dry in 12 minutes, help to
maintain a comfortable body temperature and have moisture management properties were on display. A
techno fleece containing Reflexx in the yarns core for stretch and Augusta on the surface has a
natural look and feel.Zimmer AG, Frankfurt, was a first-time Fil Event exhibitor. It showed Sea
Cell®, a new fiber made from dried seaweed blended with lyocell in the spinning process. Sea Cell
absorbs moisture, inhibits bacteria, prevents odors and reduces fungus growth. Targeted areas are
shoe linings, socks, underwear and bedding.Several exhibitors showed new fabrics containing soy and
bamboo. The best sampling fabrics at Premiere Vision were a group called second skin from Ratti
S.p.A., Italy, that are knitted and woven with soy bean fiber. The fiber imparts a silky touch and
warm hand, prints and dyes well, and is less expensive than silk. Ratti has an extensive line
including a knitted jersey of 100-percent soy, satin, chiffon and twill in blends with silk.At Moda
In, Italy-based G. ChierichettiandF. S.p.A. showed a line it refers to as biological. Fabrics in
the line contain soy and bamboo fiber. The bamboo comes from Asia and dyes like cotton, while soy
has the absorbency of viscose and performance of polyester.Premiere VisionSwitzerland-based
Schoeller Textil AG has further developed its NanoSphere® technology a self-cleaning textile
finish. At Premiere Vision, the company demonstrated how the technology works ketchup poured on
NanoSphere-treated fabric rolls off in seconds. Any substance that does cling, including ink or
grease, can be rinsed off with water. Metal-effect was another Schoeller technology on display.
Copper, steel, aluminum, silver and gold can be applied using a new vacuum metalizing process. Some
of the fabrics are ultra-light and also have been treated with the NanoSphere finish. Italy-based
Clerprem S.A. showed cottons and cotton/wool blends coated with Teflon or resins to give them water
repellency without affecting their natural touch. Other fabrics shown are pigment-dyed and take on
a faded or vintage look after the first washing. Fabrics included fleeces that have been coated to
give them a wrinkled paper effect, and double cloths bonded using a water-soluble bond to eliminate
cutting and sewing a separate lining. At Italy-based Limonta S.p.A., there were bonded fabrics and
water-repellent finishes that cant be seen or felt. Limonta has wool/nylon twills with a finish
referred to as British MacIntosh. There were luxurious sueded fabrics woven with microfibers, a
silk/nylon fabric called Glove that has a doeskin touch, ultra-light taffetas and heavy-stretch
double cloths. In the sportswear sector, sampling doubled over the previous year at CordandVelveton
GmbH. The Germany-based company explained corduroy is a staple for menswear and childrenswear. This
season, it is a fashion item in womenswear. Weft-stretch cotton/Lycra corduroy, baby cords and
small ribs, mnge corduroy, mill-washed qualities and tonal high/low rib corduroys are among the
most popular. All have an ultra-soft finish.Tencel®/cotton soft-sueded twills are popular at
Tejidos Royo, Spain. Denim is going lighter and softer. UCO, a denim producer with mills in
Rockingham, N.C., and Belgium, showed slubbed denim, new washing treatments and herringbones that
are woven using a streaked warp and then piece-dyed.Novelty In The Wool SectorClassics are back in
fashion, but with a twist: Pin stripes are woven with metallic yarns; traditional Harris tweeds are
sparked with color; tartans are redesigned; and new combinations of yarns and patterns give a
contemporary look and touch.Scottish weavers Lochcarron of Scotland, CalzeatandCo. and Johnstons of
Elgin have updated their Fall collections without giving up quality or tradition. At Lochcarron,
estate tweeds are woven in wool/cotton blends and are shrink-finished for a crinkled surface.
Calzeat combines tartans with jacquard designs for a patchwork effect, and gives pinstripes argyle
borders.Johnstons of Elgin is selling traditional estate tweeds to Italian designers. John
Gillespie, director of design, noted that more of its line is selling to womenswear than in the
past. There are boucl#44; bold checks and a lot of color in this line. France-based AJM has a lot
of novelty. There are colorful rustic tweeds woven with hairy yarns and basket weaves woven with
metallic yarns. Most of the fabrics are woven with wool and mohair plus viscose, acetate, nylon,
acrylic or polyester.Fancy tweeds at France-based Isoule Textile have multicolored loops, are
touched with glitter and are woven with thick chenille yarns. DeCathalo S.A., France, has added
knits to coordinate with its wovens. Wool/angora melton coatings and jerseys are dyed to match.
Thomas Brochier, head of DeCathalos North American sales, said that with the importance of color
this season, the company is using angora because of its affinity to color.Loro Piana S.p.A., Italy,
is blending traditional cashmere with a coarser variety that comes from the top of the goat. It
resembles Shetland wool and is going into sporty tweeds. There are classic weaves in cashmere/silk
and all-weather fabrics that are backed by an invisible membrane.Rustic tweeds at Picchi S.p.A.,
Italy, are classic in pattern, but newly colored. There are washable jacket-weight fabrics in
viscose/polyester blends that have a wool touch. Linea Tessile Italiana S.p.A., also of Italy,
blends wool with linen, mohair, viscose, nylon and polyester for Fall. There are hairy and crinkled
jacquards with a touch of sparkle, open lacy fabrics woven with chenille yarns, brushed stretch
matelassand brushed wide-wale cords.Spanish exhibitor Pablo Farras Faus is selling classic wool
suitings with stretch and metallic stripes. There are Chanel-styled tweeds woven with chenille
yarns and jacquards in blends of wool, polyester and Lycra.Wool In The Silk SectorItaly-based
Mantero Seta S.p.A. introduced a line of novelty wools to coordinate with its silks. There are
thick boucl#44; rustic weaves with paillettes, and nubby textures with thin metallic threads
running through them. Double cloths combined silk chiffon jacquards with wool. Prints are bold and
bright, or soft and muted on silk velvet, satin, chiffon or crepe. Europ-Marchini, Italy, showed
double cloths with wool boucleversing to silk/acetate or swirling striped silk matelasseversing to
wool. Wool/silk/nylon woven jacquards are thick and lofty. Wool at Switzerland-based
Weisbrod-Zurrer AG is layered with one side cut out for a ragged patchwork effect; cut and washed
to give an aged look; or embellished with spangles, beads, embroidery or fur pompoms. Silks are
pleated and printed with metal. Gold embroidered leaves are sewn to chiffon.At Switzerland-based
Jacob Schlaepfer, silk chiffon is covered with sequins or striped with ribbon appliqu Gold squares
are glued to lace, and sheer double cloths shimmer with a metallic underlayer. French silk jacquard
weaver Bucol is printing on piece-dyed chiffon and mousseline to give it a tarnished appearance.
Vintage-looking jacquards woven with cotton/silk/wool are muted and have an antique off-the-sofa
feeling. Bucol has a new 100-percent silk chiffon that is available for immediate delivery.At
Bianchini Fer, France, there are enormous handpainted prints on chiffon and taffeta. Large paisleys
are popular. Light, supple jacquards look as if this firm has spun the yarn with gold. Solstiss
S.A., France, showed Chantilly lace with camouflage prints for a destructured, edgy look. Other
abstract prints emphasize the lace patterns. For a romantic and elegant feeling, this company has
reproduced old laces in 100-percent silk. KnitsFleeces, velvets, suedes, soft wool-touch fabrics
and metallics are popular in the knit sector. Billon Frs, France, showed suedes, velours and
corduroys dyed in warm shades of tobacco, brick and blue. There are a lot of metallics and prints
in this line. Silk, wool and mohair are fibers of choice at Italy-based Jackytex. There are
boucl#44; laces, crepes, jacquards and a lot of velvets. A new, younger and less expensive line
called Wag was introduced. It is sportier, with double cloths and fleeces in viscose/wool and
cotton/nylon blends.

At Premiere Vision, Jackytex introduced Wag, a new, less expensive fabric line.Plain and
printed velvet, piece-dyed wool jersey, jacquards, burn-outs and colorful Pop Art geometric prints
are among the favorites at Italy-based Marioboselli Jersey S.p.A. Another Italian firm, Mabu
Jersey, showed a line of washable interlocks knitted with Lenpur, a new cellulosic fiber. A group
of fancy ribs and basics in a blend of Tactel®/Lycra sampled well for active sports. Fleeces and
faux furs at Nello Gori S.p.A., Italy, are printed, embossed and bonded. Some are touched with
metallic yarns or dyes. News Fit To PrintNew colors, patterns, techniques and base cloths in the
printed fabrics sector attracted buyers. At Italy-based Miroglio S.p.A., optics, Art Deco and
William Morris-styled Art Nouveau designs, large-scale geometrics, swirling comets, vintage florals
and reptile skins that look as if they were printed on pleated fabrics are some of the new looks.
They are printed on a variety of base cloths, such as sheer viscose georgette, crinkled silk
georgette and viscose knits. France-based Chaine et Trame S.A. is printing on heavy twill, poplin
and corduroy fabrics, along with georgette, satin, jersey, mesh and jacquards. There is a lot of
coordination here and a lot of glitter. Geometric circles are combined with squares and rectangles.
London-based Liberty Plc has four base cloths Tana Lawn, Tana Jersey, Liberty Twill and Varuna
wool. Along with nostalgic florals from its archives, there are botanical designs, Art Nouveau
long-stemmed beauties, Art Deco shapes, paisley combinations and tapestry florals. Surface Design
At IndigoAlthough the design studios at Indigo showed surface designs for Spring/Summer 2005,
buyers were still shopping for Fall. New York City-based Tom Cody Design Inc. reported interest in
conversational prints with a 1920s feeling, realistic animal skins, clean graphics and Art Deco
florals. At The Style Council, New York City, varsity T-shirt sport themes, rock-and-roll and
circus motifs were of interest. Karen Moller, based in Italy and France, sold small, neat
geometrics and flowers; flower and dot combinations on black grounds; and brightly colored designs
with a Latino influence.Changes At Fil EventExhibitors at the latest Fil Event showed weaving yarns
for Spring/Summer 2005. St. Lieven, France, has sheer and fine-count linen yarns, shrinkable yarns
for seersucker and crinkle effects, linen/steel memory yarns for shape retention, and a
thermal-sensitive yarn called Fahrenheit. Ultra-sheer yarns turned up at Emile Tardy, France, and
Marioboselli. Microstructures were shown by Miroglio, Ghezzi S.p.A. and Pozzi Electra, all based in
Italy. Christory S.a.s., France, and Novaceta Group, Italy, had a lot of luster and shine, and
there were rustic yarns with an artisan quality at Christory; Jacob S.A., France; Marioboselli;
Pozzi Electra; and ANTEX, Spain.Sylvie Tastemain presented Fil Event colors for Spring/Summer 2005.
Her range included luminous, whitened neutral shades; darks with warm browns, cobalt blue and
forest green; vivid strong brights; and a group of whitened brights.Starting in February 2004, Fil
Event will be replaced by Expofil. The show will run alongside Premiere Vision from the 25th to the
28th. The focus will be on flat knitting yarns for Spring/Summer 2005, and weaving and circular
knitting yarns for Fall/Winter 2005-06.

December 2003

December 2003

The new Type 78 pressure regulator from

Marsh Bellofram
 , Newell, W.Va., controls output pressure over a range of flow and supply pressure
variations. Output and supply ports are available in 0.375-inch, 0.5-inch, 0.75-inch and 1-inch
NPT; and output gauge ports are 0.25-inch NPT. Optional versions are available.

bb1

Marsh Bellofram’s Type 78 pressure regulator



The Screenprinting & Graphic Imaging Association International
 , Fairfax, Va., has announced that it will change its name to the Specialty Graphic
Imaging Association.


Unifi Inc.
 , Greensboro, N.C., has established websites to provide global sourcing and networking
resources related to the following trade agreements: the Caribbean Basin Initiative —
www.cbisourcing. com; the Africa Growth and Opportunity Act — www.agoasourcing.com; and the Andean
Trade Pact — www.atpasourcing.com. Each site, available in English and Spanish, can be accessed via
www.unifi-inc.com.


Eagle Performance Products
 , Atlanta, has released a new brochure highlighting its line of coatings, polymers,
fluoropolymers, fire-retardant additives, textile finishes and thickeners, among other specialties.

The latest generation of Essex Junction, Vt.-based

Flex-A-Seal
 ’s Integrated Cartridge Program offers lower-cost cartridge seals, allows quicker
deliveries, minimizes inventory needs, extends sealing efficiencies, boosts reliability and
increases bottom-line results, according to the company.


Spirax Sarco Inc.
 , Blythewood, S.C., has launched www.spiraxsarco.com/us, an on-line resource for steam
system design and maintenance.

The first certified PROFInet products from the

PROFIBUS Trade Organization
 , Scottsdale, Ariz., are the Hilscher PKV50 PROFInet Internet/Ethernet Gateway, Siemens
Simatic Net Industrial Ethernet/ PROFIBUS Link, and Siemens Simatic Net CP 343-1 PN PROFInet
communications processor.

“Stepping Up To ISO 9004:2000 — A practical guide for creating a world-class organization,”
by Russell T. Westcott, has been released by

Paton Press
 , Chico, Calif.


The Modal Shop Inc.
 , Cincinnati, highlights its application software, hardware and connectivity solutions
for dynamic sound and vibration measurement at www.processvibration.com.

Two new hands-on training classes for the Yaskawa F7 adjustable-frequency AC drive have been
added to other classes offered by

Yaskawa Electric America
 , Waukegan, Ill. The F7 Level One class focuses on installation, wiring and commissioning
of the F7 drive; and the F7 Basic class emphasizes F7 features and functions.


ITT Industries Inc.
 , White Plains, N.Y., has launched www.ittfluidbusiness.com, a new website dedicated to
its fluid businesses.


Bushman Equipment Inc.
 , Butler, Wis., has released an updated brochure that features new pictures of its
coil-handling products.

Cleveland-based

Astrup Co.
 recently introduced Architectural Fabric Structure Solutions, a resource kit that assists
architects in design planning and fabric selection. The kit includes fabric samples and charts,
color photos, and an Astrup fabric catalog on CD-ROM. In other company news, Astrup’s website,
www.astrup.com/online, recently celebrated its one-year anniversary.

The “At A Glance” brochure from

Kaeser Compressors
 , Fredericksburg, Va., presents Kaeser’s line of compressors and compressed air
equipment.





bb2_CopyUnidex Inc.
 , Warsaw, N.Y., has released an updated brochure that presents its standard and
engineered-to-order ergonomic material handling systems and equipment.

Fairfield, Conn.-based

RBC Bearings
 ’ West Trenton, N.J., facility recently achieved ISO 9001:2000 certification.


Boston Gear
 , Quincy, Mass., has introduced new interactive features to its redesigned website,
www.bostongear.com.


Crydom Corp.
 , San Diego, has released a new solid-state relay and sensor catalog.


December 2003



Goller Unirelaxa Provides Tensionless Fabric Transport

Germany-based GTM Goller Textilmaschinen GmbH has introduced the Goller Unirelaxa to complement the
Goller-Sintensa® range used in wet-finishing applications. The Goller Unirelaxa guides fabric
without tension, providing either tight strand fabric guiding or a combination of plaiting and
tight strand fabric guiding. It can treat a full range of fabrics, from elastic knits to
dimensionally stable goods.

December 2003

NextLinx Ranks In Fast 50 Program For Second Year

For the second year in a row, San Jose, Calif.-based DeloitteandTouches Fast 50 Program has
recognized NextLinx Corp., Rockville, Md., as one of the fastest-growing technology companies in
the state of Maryland.NextLinx provides its Automated Global Trade Management software solution to
such companies as apparel manufacturer VF Corp. The company recently became a member of the
American Apparel Producers Network.To qualify for the Fast 50 Program, companies must have had 1998
operating revenues of no less than $50,000, and 2002 operating revenues of at least $1 million; be
based in Maryland; and be a technology company one that [owns] proprietary technology that
contributes to a significant portion of the companys operative revenues or devotes a significant
portion of revenues to research and development of technology. Standings are determined by the
growth of fiscal-year revenues over a five-year period. NextLinx ranked 17th with a 404-percent
revenue growth between 1998 and 2002.

December 2003

Central America Free Trade Agreement Approved

Central America Free TradeAgreement ApprovedThe Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA) signed
on December 18 doesnt especially please US textile manufacturers or importers, but it appears to be
tilted in the direction of importers and Central American apparel manufacturers. Although details
of the agreement have not been made public it is certain to create controversy before it can be
finallyif ever– enacted.Sketchy details available at this time indicate that the agreement between
the US, Nicaragua, Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras has a yarn-forward rule of origin that
requires apparel eligible for duty-free treatment to be made in the participating countries. There
are, however, two exceptions. One is a new principle in textile trade agreements called cumulation.
It will permit use of inputs from Canada and Mexico as participants in the North American Free
Trade Agreement (NAFTA). The other will give Nicaragua Tariff Preference Levels (TPLs) that will
permit use of a specified amount of inputs from non-participating countries.The text of the
agreement is expected to be published in January, and then the administration must give Congress at
least a 90- day notification before it signing the agreement. During that period both sides will be
making efforts to get the administration to modify and clarify some aspects of the agreement as it
is translated into legislative language.The American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC),
which represents some 18 manufacturing interests including textiles, immediately announced its
opposition to the agreement. AMTACs Washington coordinator said: US trade policy is inherently
flawed. CAFTA replicates the failed policy of negotiating trade deals with countries capable of
manufacturing large amounts of consumer goods for the US market, but incapable of buying
significant numbers of finished US goods in return. He described cumulation, TPLs and other
provisions as loopholes that will significantly damage the US textile industry. He warned that
cumulation will encourage transshipments from China and other countries. Cass Johnson, interim
president of the American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) said the administration had an
excellent chance to negotiate an agreement that would benefit Central America as well as the US,
but he said CAFTA is loaded with side deals, special deals and loopholes that jeopardize US textile
jobs. ATMI is likely to oppose the agreement if it is sent Congress in its present form. The
National Textile Association called CAFTA a flawed agreement that will open US markets to a flood
of imports.While textile and apparel importers were disappointed in some aspects of the agreement,
Julie Hughes of the US Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, while expressing her
disappointment with some of the provisions of the pact, said it is overall a step in the right
direction. She said importers and Central American manufacturers would be much better off with more
generous use of TPLs and cumulation in order to give importers more flexibility in their purchases
of apparel. She believes the framework of the agreement is something we can work with, and if
properly implemented it can benefit both importers and US and Central American textile and apparel
manufacturers.Kevin Burke, president of the American Apparel and Footwear Association, said his
members have long maintained that a swift solution of a commercially meaningful US/Central America
is critical to the survival of both the US textile industry and its apparel customers in Central
America. While saying his association is generally pleased with the inclusion of TPLs, cumulation
and a short supply list, he expressed disappointment that some elements in the agreement fall short
of what is needed. He was pleased that the agreement, if ratified, will be retroactive to January
1, 2004. He expressed the hope that Congress will approve the agreement swiftly and that a
regulatory framework will be established quickly, so the transition from the current trade
framework can be accomplished in as seamless a manner as possible.In any event, the agreement faces
a rough road ahead, as Congress has to either approve or reject it, and members of Congress are not
very fond of dealing with trade issues in an election year. In announcing the agreement, US Trade
Representative Robert B. Zoellick said: This will be a major challenge. There is no doubt about
that, but we are committed.By James A. Morrissey, Washington Correspondent
December 2003

Stretch Active Versus Easy

By John E. Luke, Technical EditorS t r e t c h:Active vs.
Easy
Stretch fabrics offer creative investment opportunities when developed to consumers
tastes.On numerous occasions, observers of the textile scene and Textile World have taken
serious issue with the industry for not investing in new technologies to provide an insulative
separation from the murderous increase in imports, particularly from the Far East. Although the
concept of stretch is not a new subject, particularly for our knitter compatriots, it still is a
series of technologies that offer niche opportunities for the creative, investing manufacturer. In
a curiously interesting way, while a current discussion of stretch fabrics and fibers provides
another opportunity to carp on product development investment, it more importantly offers a chance
to examine the marketplace and suggest directions for stretch products for several coming
years.Stretch HistoryHistorically, with the notable exceptions of knit fabrics and several stretch
woven fabrics denim particularly stretch has meant the inclusion of spandex in fabric construction
to add the third dimension of extensibility and recovery. Historically, this added dimension also
contained the concept of power, body control and body performance enhancement. At the height of the
Baby Boom exercise fury of the 1990s,
TW looked at stretch fibers and fabrics and concluded that substantial growth awaited
fabric manufacturers capable of incorporating stretch, primarily spandex, in traditional sportswear
and formalwear fabrics
(See Silent Spring, ATI, June 1998). The Baby Boomer, primarily into running and walking,
tennis, swimming and biking, was pushed by his/her ego and children to preserve the physical beauty
and muscle tone gained through the pain of exercise but squandered behind a desk in an endless
pursuit of sufficient wealth to afford the time and the accoutrements of planned exercise. In
stretch history of the late 1990s, TW concluded that spandex growth was barely more difficult than
building a production facility and hanging out a shingle. Alas, such was not to be the case, and TW
admitted in a follow-up article that it too had been mesmerized by the attractiveness of
spandex-containing garments and had overstated market growth potential
(See Spandex Revisited, TI, May 2001). The recession was coming, and TW had discounted
consumer purchases of more expensive garments. What was missed, however, was the consumer
resistance to substantially higher prices for spandex-containing articles, compounded by continuing
workplace dress code changes to even more casual apparel. Mid-1990s signs of a return to more
formal office dress codes evaporated, and premium stretch took a back seat to practical, but
non-stretch, function The best example of this is the continuing sales decline of womens hosiery
and pantyhose. The Baby Boomer wife/professional appears satisfied that she can present an
attractive well-toned body without the assistance of power garments, including hosiery and
pantyhose. Against these substantial consumer projections, TW published a table of spandex usage,
which is presented again here
(See Table 1).

It is obvious from some current preliminary research that sales fell short of the year 2000
outlook and continue to this day to underperform the estimated 2005 level. Little was it realized
that the consumer was plotting against the industry and her scheme would finally be exposed in
recent data from the Mount Prospect, Ill.-based National Sporting Goods Association, which
regularly tracks participation in sports activities. Table 2 presents data for the top 10
activities in 2002.Combining these statistics with one more set opens a new picture of the future
for stretch. Several recent domestic and international studies have outlined the age demographics
of sports participants
(See Table 3).Aye, and there lies the rub. Just as the worldwide fiber industry is
completing its spandex fiber-building binge, raising capacity well beyond even the optimistic
estimates of several years ago, the Baby Boomer the fuel for the exercise revolution is changing
sports and doing less. What is to become of the myriad of sports-specific garments prepared for the
exercise-addicted Boomer It appears that a new direction is needed.

Comfort StretchThe new direction is comfort stretch, not active stretch. The Baby Boomer
generation, currently ranging in age from 38 to 56, dominates the 45-to-54 age category, is leaving
the 35-to-44 year-old category, and is slowly sneaking into the 55-to-64 category. The absolute
numbers of the Baby Boomer generation soon will start to decline, and sports participation by the
remaining members will slide from 74 to 80 percent, to under 70 percent. Sports-specific apparel is
less in demand.As people age, they tend to add weight. This, despite the obvious cardiac
implications, is good news for stretch. In addition to the new business brought to exercise salons,
diet programs and doctors, heavier Baby Boomers will need to re-wardrobe, and that new clothing
will contain elements of stretch. Unfortunately, as people gain weight, so also do they change
their seated appearance, stretching and sagging more widely. Since woven fabrics generally are cut
longitudinally for slacks, filling stretch is used to compensate for the horizontal extension of
their avoirdupois, keeping them comfortable as they strain against the constraints of garment leg
construction. Less movement, less exercise, less posturing in active-sport-specific clothing all
point to comfort, not power and action.In their constant attempts to reduce the cost of active
fabrics, US textile manufacturers have searched for ways to reduce the price of spandex or have
searched for substitute materials less expensive than spandex. Until recently, Wilmington,
Del.-based INVISTA Inc., then DuPont, was able to keep a floor under price movements in domestic
spandex through a combination of consumer brand loyalty and active, pointed product development for
Lycra® in activewear applications. Three forces, however, have conspired to weaken the companys
position. First, domestic competitors ramped up production, weak producers were absorbed by
stronger organizations, and excess production flowed into the market. Simultaneously, foreign
producers, largely from Korea but increasingly producing in many parts of the world, flooded US
shores with relatively good-quality, cheap spandex, attacking DuPonts traditional price levels and
offering manufacturers opportunities to try spandex constructions with marginal cost additions.
Mills experimented with low levels of spandex in many applications without seriously increasing
greige fabric costs (finishing costs were another matter, beyond the scope of this analysis).
Knitters added small percentages of spandex to lightweight blouse fabrics, and weavers added even
smaller amounts to the filling in light to heavyweight twills for slacks and outerwear garments.
The basic spandex structure provided basic stretch and power characteristics to the fabric. So far,
so good, but now it was the consumers turn. She, now slightly older, changed her buying and
exercise habits and searched less for power and exercise garments and more for comfort garments.
Several ancient technologies stepped forward, including textured polyester and textured nylon, each
finding its own niche, generally chosen by fabric economics rather than aesthetics. DuPont changed
the rules around the Lycra brand, allowing it to be used on DuPont-approved constructions
containing spandex, nylon or polyester from DuPont. The logic was simple use a DuPont product, meet
certain performance standards and label it Lycra, probably the strongest brand in the companys
stable. It is not certain how the market accepted change, but corruption of a historically strong
marketing brand is a move to be questioned.Spandex manufacturers tried to lower prices to compete,
never really meeting the self-flagellating price levels to which polyester or nylon textured fibers
would sink. Meanwhile, Dow Chemical, Midland, Mich., is trying an alternative route with DOW XLA, a
polyolefin-based melt-spun monofilament fiber that has been granted its own subclass, lastol. Dow
makes no pretense of competing with Lycra or other spandex materials but, rather, claims the fiber
will provide soft stretch performance and require little or no heat-setting to stabilize heavy
recovery. This probably is the best definition of comfort stretch that has been offered.

The Future Of StretchComfort stretch is here to stay. As a matter of fact, comfort stretch
will/should become a regular offering from US knitters and weavers. The consumer is downsizing her
tastes and lifestyle to more easygoing levels, and, while exercise still is important, it slowly is
decreasing in consumer attractiveness. As the population ages, the consumer looks to garments that
enhance her figure in different venues in smaller, more subtle ways.Comfort stretch is a natural
for the textile industry. Spandex insertion in knitted fabrics is relatively easy, without specific
machines needed. Contrarily, weavers need extra-wide looms to accommodate the spandex and produce
the 60- to 70-inch finished widths needed for cutting slacks. Comfort stretch, without the need for
narrow greige widths to develop power and recovery that must be stretched out and controlled by
heat-setting, can be made commercially using existing equipment. An industry struggling to survive
certainly doesnt have access to or want to spend the capital to install new looms in the hope that
spandex wins the comfort stretch race. Rather, existing mill equipment both knit and woven can be
adapted with little effort to produce, as Dow says, soft stretch performance. Recent political
campaigns have urged the voter to follow the money. Textiles need to follow the consumer to comfort
stretch. Active stretch will never go away, but comfort stretch will replace substantial portions
of the market as the consumer replaces active with easy.

December 2003

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