Ciba, Reggiani Establish Digital Technological Center

Switzerland-based Ciba Specialty Chemicals and Italy-based Reggiani Macchine S.p.A. have teamed
up to establish the Digital Technological Center (DTC) in Italy.

The center will focus on developing digital inks and pre- and post-treatment systems; supporting
Reggiani in software and hardware development, color calibration, computer-aided design driver
releases, upgrades and work flow research; coordinating and hosting events and conferences;
validating clients industrial printing trials; and supporting textile universities in the promotion
of industrial digital printing.

The DTC also will offer clients live monitoring between the center and their machinery, and
on-site and remote support and service.

May 2005

Shaw To Expand Thomson Nylon Extrusion Facility

Shaw Industries Inc., Dalton, Ga., is to invest $27 million in its Thomson, Ga., facility in
order to expand its nylon extrusion capacity for carpet manufacturing. The expansion is a response
to increased demand for the companys products and will add 70 jobs to the local economy.

Richard Stuckey, director of extrusion for Shaws Thomson and Aiken, S.C., plants, said the
expansion will increase capacity at the Thomson plant by 65 to 70 percent.

“We are also refurbishing our Superba heat-set units and replacing twisters with new models, and
will upgrade the entire manufacturing process,” he said.

Shaw expects to complete the expansion in early 2006.

May 2005

Teijin To Increase Twaron Capacity In The Netherlands

Teijin Ltd., Japan, and its Netherlands-based Teijin Twaron BV subsidiary will invest 140
million euros to expand production capacity by 20 percent for Twaron® para-aramid pulp and yarn at
two plants in The Netherlands. The expansion, expected to be completed in the second half of 2006,
will include monomer and polymer capacity in the Delfzijl plant, and spinning capacity in the Emmen
plant.

It will increase annual capacity to approximately 23,000 tons.

Teijin Twaron’s plant in Emmen, The Netherlands

May 2005

Eastern Color, ICI Pakistan Sign Marketing Agreement

Providence, R.I.-based Eastern Color & Chemical Co. and Pakistan-based ICI Pakistan Ltd.
have signed an agreement whereby ICI Pakistan will manufacture and market Eastern Color’s specialty
textile finishes in Pakistan. “The global textile market is a demanding arena,” said Barry Shepard,
president, Eastern Color. “Our partnership with ICI Pakistan will provide them with the technical
expertise, field experience and resources to deliver the latest product innovations their customers
need to be competitive in today’s market.”

ICI Pakistan will offer Eastern Color’s water and oil repellents, soil-release agents, dye and
print auxiliaries, flame retardants, highly concentrated pigment dispersions, fiber and yarn
lubricants, defoamers, and anti-static and cohesive agents.

May 2005

Appleton Introduces Battery-Operated Roll Mover

Appleton Production Solutions Inc.’s Manufacturing Division, Neenah, Wis., reports its new Roll
Mover is the first battery-operated roll mover on the market. The unit is designed to move large,
heavy rolls in converting facilities and paper mills, allowing the operator to maneuver without
encountering obstructions such as air hoses used to power pneumatic roll movers.

Roll Mover features a toggle handle with variable-speed throttle; rugged construction; and an
easy-change, quick-charge battery. The company also offers complete parts, service and technical
support.

May 2005

Textile Investments Announced In North Carolina, Virginia, New York

The news isn’t all bad for US textile manufacturers and their employees. Despite stories of
plant closings and job losses blamed on cheap imports and outsourcing, there are some bright spots,
particularly in niche markets, where investments are being made and jobs created. State economic
development agencies are supporting some of these enterprises by offering grants and other
incentives.

North Carolina recently awarded One North Carolina Fund grants totaling $500,000 to assist four
textile makers with their endeavors. Cedartown Manufacturing a joint venture between Gildan
Activewear Inc., Montreal; and Frontier Spinning Mills Inc., Sanford, N.C. will invest $25 million
to open a cotton yarn spinning plant in Clarkton, creating 134 jobs. Nonwovens producer Polymer
Group Inc., North Charleston, S.C., will expand its Mooresville operation, investing $40 million
and adding 49 jobs.

In another nonwovens expansion, Avgol America Inc., a subsidiary of Avgol Industries, Israel,
will invest $27 million and add 40 jobs at its Mocksville plant. Kordsa USA Inc. will invest $22
million to update and expand its tire cord fabric twisting and weaving plant in Laurel Hill, adding
seven jobs. Other growth in North Carolina is due to the establishment of Colortex USA LLC’s North
American headquarters and operations in Gastonia. The subsidiary of Colortex BVBA, Belgium, is
investing $2 million in machinery and equipment to finish knitted mattress fabrics, and initially
will employ 30 people. In Virginia, Narricot Industries LP, Philadelphia, a manufacturer of
side-impact airbags and nylon and polyester webbing products for automotive and defense
applications, will invest $20 million at two plants. The company will expand airbag production at
its Mecklenburg County plant and consolidate seat belt production at its Southampton County plant,
adding 138 jobs.

Expansions also are planned in other states. BMP America Inc., Medina, N.Y., a producer of
textile components for business machines, will invest $2 million to add 40,000 square feet to its
plant and create 10 new jobs. BMP will receive 120 kilowatts of low-cost hydropower from the New
York Power Authority’s Niagara Power Project in return for the added jobs. Shaw Industries Inc,
Dalton, Ga., is expanding its Thomson, Ga., nylon extrusion plant
(See ”
Shaw To Expand Thomson Nylon Extrusion Facility,”
www.TextileWorld.com,
May 2005)
.

May 2005

Import Surge


T
rade continues to dominate industry news. The big headache has been the huge spurt in
textile and apparel imports from China over the last few months. Washington estimates that incoming
January shipments from that country jumped 39 percent vis-à-vis a month earlier. If some estimates
from China are to be believed, the figure was a lot higher.

Leading the gains were imports of thread (up nearly threefold); and women’s and girls’
lingerie, loungewear and nightwear (more than double the previous level). Imports of cotton knit
shirts and trousers also have taken off, and China now produces one-third of all the world’s
trousers. Europe is reporting similar big import gains. Some analysts feel this flood into the
United States and Europe could be a one-time surge — reflecting the fact that many Chinese mills
held back shipments at the end of last year to take advantage of 2005’s new quota-free ground
rules. But not many are ready to buy into that explanation.

p14_Copy_10


Pressure For Protection Growing

In any event, criticism of free trade in textiles and apparel is mounting. Domestically, the
Washington-based National Council of Textile Organizations is asking the US government to quickly
institute new moves to prevent another wave of plant closings and US job losses. Commerce
Department officials are discussing setting up an early warning system to better track import
surges from China. Counterparts in Europe are demanding the European Union and its 25 member
countries apply safeguard measures in several key textile and apparel import categories.

China also is beginning to realize something has to change. Hence, its recent announcement that
a government delegation will visit Washington and Brussels to persuade officials not to act too
precipitously. There also are reports of China pondering new ways to restrain outgoing shipments —
with the head of that country’s Chamber of Commerce for Imports and Exports of Textiles noting that
China will try to limit any excessive export growth. Moreover, while that nation is unlikely to
make any major upward revaluation in its currency, the feeling now is the yuan will be allowed to
slowly float higher as the year wears on.


Adding It All Up

All these new initiatives eventually will bear fruit, but just how much is anybody’s guess. The
best hope is for some modest deceleration in incoming shipment gains. In any case, China’s share of
the US market will continue to grow substantially from last year’s estimated 16-percent level.
Indeed, it could well double by next year. But

Textile World
doesn’t expect China to capture the huge 70-percent slice that some analysts have
predicted.


New Projections

Putting all of today’s changing variables into the computer hopper, economic forecasting firm
Global Insight has made a substantial downward revision in its 2005 domestic outlook for the basic
textile mill, mill product and apparel segments of the industry. All three areas now are expected
to show meaningful declines in shipments, prices and profits, in sharp contrast to the basically
flat pattern predicted a few months ago. Basic mill dollar sales are now targeted to drop by more
than 11 percent — a major reversal from the previously forecast 1.5-percent decline. Some of this
slippage reflects price weakness, with average quotes expected to fall by nearly 6 percent.

In the textile product area, a previously projected 1.3-percent gain in sales now turns into
a 6+-percent drop. Some price attrition — about 1.7 percent — is expected here, too. Finally, in
apparel, a 9.4-percent falloff in dollar revenues and close to a 5-percent price decline replace
previously forecast flat trends. All of this, as might be expected, will take its toll on profits —
where declines for basic mills, mill products, and apparel are put at 9.3 percent, 10.1 percent and
11.4 percent, respectively.

On a somewhat less gloomy note, analysts at Global Insight expect some bottoming out in 2006.
Their projections see next year’s basic mill, mill product and apparel sales down by smaller
amounts — 6.5 percent, 3 percent and 5.6 percent, respectively.



April 2005



So Far, So Good


T
he yarn mills continue to enjoy brisk business, running at or near capacity. The strength
of the yarn market, given recent import figures, has quite a few folks in the industry scratching
their heads.

“This is probably as good a market as [spinners] have seen in a long time,” said one industry
observer. “They aren’t saying prices are great, but they aren’t complaining about them either.
Having said that, I’ve also seen the import figures, and I don’t understand it.”

Will this strong demand continue or is a downturn coming? In the short term, business seems
to be holding firm.

“It looks very good for the next three months and maybe out six months,” said a specialty
ring spinner. “No one knows after that.”


Spotty Man-Made Business

In contrast, spinners producing yarns rich in man-made fibers have found market conditions to
vary from disappointing to fair. One man-made fiber spinner reported running five days a week but
said he really needs to run six days to make any money. The export business also is tougher on the
man-made side.

“We’re exporting yarn and diligently looking for more export business, but the volume is just
not there in man-made yarns like in cotton,” said another man-made spinner. “We thought we would
survive on the specialty business, then you see how many specialty products are already coming out
of China. We’re going to have to reassess what we are doing.”

A perennial problem here is rising man-made fiber prices. Polyester fiber producers have
announced yet another increase.

“The increases are not getting passed on at retail,” said a multisystem spinner. “The chain
has to absorb it, and eventually you are going to weaken the links in the chain.”

For the last year or so, it appeared the US man-made fiber business might get a break. The
prices of commodity chemicals in Asia have been rising due to increased demand and have been
getting closer to the prices US fiber producers pay. Unfortunately, these higher costs just don’t
seem to show up in the prices of imported goods.

”The fiber guys say that the Chinese buy their chemicals on the spot market and in some
instances have to pay considerably more than our suppliers charge,” said one spinner. “Domestic
fiber producers say they are getting better prices for fiber in China, yet the goods came in
cheaper in January than last year. That has got to be more than just the cost of quota.”


Export Upswing

Exports remain a bright spot, with many spinners reporting shipping significant production
offshore. Even commodity spinning seems to be going to exports. Quite a bit of this yarn is going
to the Caribbean Basin Initiative (CBI) region, including places like Honduras, Guatemala and some
areas in South America. At least one specialty spinner is selling yarns to markets like Singapore,
Hong Kong and Malaysia.

“We continue to see exports climb,” said a ring spinner. “We are more than 75-percent export
and feel we will hit 80 to 90 percent by year-end. We knew the quotas were going, and we also knew
that some of our customers here would not make it. We have aggressively gone after securing
business elsewhere in the world; a good portion goes to CBI.”


US Cotton Exports Hang Near Record

The latest US Department of Agriculture cotton forecast for 2004-05 projects US cotton exports
at 13.2 million bales, up from a month ago but still below the 2003-04 record of 13.8 million. The
lower exports this season are attributable to competition from a record foreign cotton crop.
Nevertheless, the US export share of demand is nearly unchanged from last season, as US mill use
experiences its seventh season of decline. In 2004-05, the US export share of demand is expected to
remain near 68 percent, well above most years of the past decade.

US cotton exports are sustained this season by the increased foreign consumption that has
exceeded production in each of the past nine seasons. Foreign cotton use in 2004-05 is forecast at
a record 99.9 million bales, resulting in considerable foreign imports despite the record crop.
China continues to propel the consumption growth, with use there forecast at 37.5 million bales and
imports projected at 9 million — both record numbers.


April 2005



Quality Fabric Of The Month: Following The Way


C
ollaboration often is an effective way to bring innovation and creativity into product design and development — as the saying goes, two heads are better than one. Each source brings its own expertise and insights to the process, and the end product likely will offer greater interest and value than a creation that comes from a single source.

LaGrange, Ga.-based Milliken Carpet — a subsidiary of Spartanburg based Milliken & Company — and SOM Collaborative — a multidisciplinary operation within global architecture firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill LLP (SOM) — have brought their respective talents together to develop Way, a new collection of 36-inch modular textured loop-pile carpet. Way’s three design families, each having three patterns within it, offer interior designers the flexibility to design floors with variable patterns, directions and colors. They are inspired by natural and man-made topography including rivers, glaciers, cityscapes, highway grids and traffic, bridges, airports and other images that lend an architectural element to a floor’s design.

The collection is the first to take advantage of Milliken’s latest-generation High-Definition Millitron® dye technology, which gives a sense of dimension through refined color gradations and visual texture. The collection’s six high-contrast colorways take their cues from geography, and bear names such as Asphalt (charcoals), Bedrock (browns), Glacier (silver-blues), Lake (blue-blacks), Lava (reds) and Meadow (greens).

qfom_Copy_19

Way’s three design families – (clockwise from upper left) Urbanscape, Riverbed and Forcefield – each comprise three
pattern variations, allowing designers flexibility to create floors with variable pattern
directions and complexities.

“With the new High-Definition technology, we have been able to get tremendous detail and pinpoint accuracy,” said Alison Kitchingman, director of marketing, Milliken Carpet. As examples, she noted background textural effects and overlay of the main pattern on top of texture in the Urbanscape design family, and subtle pattern gradations in Riverbed.

“We collaborated with SOM because the firm’s approach to carpet design and use is an architectural process,” Kitchingman said of the Milliken/SOM partnership. “We had this new technology, and wanted to collaborate with someone who
would push us to the absolute limit. SOM provided that.”

The collaborative’s Pattern Builder™ software allows designers to configure the patterns into a total concept using a click and drag tool. The software is available on CD and this spring will be offered on-line at www.millikencarpet.com.

Way is made with Milliken Certified WearOn® Type 6,6 nylon and Underscore™ polyvinyl chloride-free cushion backing or ES (Engineered for Sustainability) backing with recycled content. MilliGuard® soil protection and stain resistance, and AlphaSan® antimicrobial protection also are included. ES backing can be supplied with TractionBack® high-friction coating for glue-free installation. The carpet is 100-percent recyclable and renewable via Milliken’s Earth Square®
reclamation and reuse process.


April 2005

 

Administration Outlines FTA Agenda


T
he Bush administration has submitted to Congress its annual international trade report,
which outlines an “aggressive and trade-liberalizing agenda” in 2005 and the remainder of President
Bush’s second term. The report states that since 1985, the United States has completed negotiations
on free trade agreements (FTAs) with 12 countries, and 12 more currently are being negotiated. The
report also states that, taken together, these 24 FTAs constitute a $78 billion market, which would
be the third-largest market for

US exports.

Former US Trade Representative Robert B. Zoellick, who authored the report before moving to
the State Department, said the FTAs have “advanced America’s interests” by opening new markets for
products and services, increasing protection of intellectual property, streamlining customs
procedures and strengthening labor and environmental laws. He said the administration’s actions
have resulted in “leveling the playing field” and lowering costs of goods purchased by consumers in
the United States.

Turning to 2005, the report states the administration will expand on its previous record and
work toward more trade liberalization, with particular emphasis on more FTAs and conclusion of the
Doha Round of trade liberalization negotiations during Bush’s second term — stating completion of
the Doha Round is “a top priority for the administration.” While working to open new markets, the
report says the US government will continue to focus on monitoring and enforcing existing US trade
agreements and trade laws.

The report also reviews what the administration describes as “benefits to the US” during the
10-year history of the World Trade Organization (WTO), giving the WTO high marks for opening new
markets and enforcing international trade agreements.

“Without the WTO,” said Zoellick, “other countries could impose higher duties on American
exports. Without the WTO, the United States would not have the leverage it needs to address trade
barriers, including discriminatory tax policies and Customs procedures, subsidies and unjustified
antidumping actions.”


Industry Reaction

As expected, US textile manufacturers see 2004 and the agenda for 2005 in an entirely different
light. The American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC), Washington, reports the
effectiveness of the FTAs has been undercut by loopholes that permit non-participating countries to
benefit, and it does not see any significant markets for US textiles in the countries where FTAs
have been negotiated.

”When you look at the countries with which we have negotiated free trade agreements, you see
very little opportunities for our exports,” said Auggie Tantillo, executive director, AMTAC. “For
the most part, those countries are small and poor and have little capacity to buy our products.”&
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AMTAC is opposed to textile and apparel tariff cuts in the Doha Round, saying they would negate
any benefits of the FTAs and simply open the US market to more imports from China, Pakistan and
India, which are expected to dominate trade in the quota-free world.

washingtonoutlook

AMTAC Executive Director Auggie Tantillo


What Importers See

Retailers and other importers of textile and apparel see 2004 as anything but a major success,
as government programs contributed to uncertainty and confusion; and they see 2005 in much the same
light. While they have supported the idea of FTAs as possible alternatives to becoming too
dependent on imports from China, they say the yarn forward rule of origin and problems with Customs
have had the practical effect of diverting more sourcing to China.

Erik O. Autor, vice president and trade counsel, National Retail Federation, Washington, said
the yarn forward rule of origin, which he describes as “the only triple transformation rule for any
commodity,“ is not commercially feasible. Retailers believe the Central American Free Trade
Agreement can be a viable alternative to a takeover of the US market by two or three Asian
manufacturers if it can win congressional approval, but that isn’t certain at this time.

Retailers also are concerned about the textile industry’s efforts to use the safeguard
mechanism in China’s WTO accession agreement to reimpose quotas on Chinese imports.


WTO Ruling Jeopardizes Cotton Competitiveness Program

A ruling by the WTO stating that a number of US cotton subsidies are illegal under international
trade rules could jeopardize the cotton competitiveness program that permits direct government
payments to cotton merchants and textile manufacturers when the price textile mills pay for raw
cotton is higher than world prices. Because US textile manufacturers under law are permitted to
import only a very limited amount of cotton, the program has been helpful to the domestic industry
in offsetting higher world prices that frequently are out of sync with domestic prices.

Acting on a complaint from Brazil, the WTO said the so-called Step 2 of the competitiveness
program is illegal. While the WTO does not have authority to take any direct actions against the
subsidies, Brazil would be permitted to retaliate against US products. The National Cotton Council,
Memphis, Tenn., and US government trade officials are studying the ruling and looking for ways for
the United States to have cotton programs that would be WTO-consistent. Any revisions in the
subsidy programs would require congressional action, and dropping or seriously harming the programs
is not likely to be very popular in Congress. Administration officials feel negotiations are the
best route to a solution.


Significant Import Rise After Quota Removal

Textile and apparel import data in the early months of this year following the January 1 removal
of import quotas have sent shock waves throughout the domestic textile industry. Its
representatives in Washington said the data clearly show how the Chinese are targeting key markets
and shipping massive amounts of clothing that eventually will monopolize the markets. They are
calling on the US government to take immediate steps to impose quotas on Chinese imports. In the
face of a major surge in Chinese imports, the industry representatives have called upon the
government to immediately self-initiate safeguard measures that would permit imposition of one-year
quotas with a 7.5-percent annual growth rate.

Although the industry and its labor union have filed a number of safeguard petitions based on
market disruption or a threat of market disruption, the self-initiating approach is new, and would
require considerably less time than the industry petitions.

Pointing out the industry-sponsored petitions process takes months and China’s import base is
growing rapidly, Cass Johnson, president of the National Council of Textile Organizations,
Washington, said, ”A long drawn-out safeguard petition process will only ensure that thousands of
US textile workers will lose their jobs to China’s unfair and predatory trading practices.” Johnson
pointed out that if an industry-sponsored safeguard procedure were started now, it would be at
least September before quotas could be put in place, and that would result in only a three-month
life for the quotas. At that point, the only way to get any meaningful results would be to re-file
the petitions as they expire, seeking year-to-year extensions.

Importers of textiles and apparel, who say they share the industry’s concern over domination
of the market by China, said this is no time to panic, and the early data do not necessarily
constitute a trend. The US Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, New York City,
contends “there is no current basis for safeguard measures whether self-initiated or by request of
the US industry.”

However, Tantillo argued the surge in Chinese exports is “just the tip of the iceberg,” and
if history is any indication, Chinese imports will continue to soar and gain a virtual monopoly of
the US market.

With all of these activities underway in the United States, European textile manufacturers
now have joined the effort to enact safeguards. EURATEX, the major textile and apparel trade
association in Europe, has filed 12 petitions with the European Union seeking action similar to
that taken in the United States.





April 2005





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