Textile Industry Unhappy With Vietnam Agreement

Rob Portman has unveiled a bilateral agreement that will pave the way for Vietnam’s entry into
the World Trade Organization (WTO). The pact came under immediate fire from US textile
interests.

Portman announced an agreement in principal that would be a major step toward Vietnam’s
accession to the WTO. It calls for a reduction in tariffs and nontariff barriers on US industrial
and agricultural products aimed at the Vietnam market. Hailing the pact as a historic step in our
bilateral relationship, Portman said Vietnam recognizes the need for economic reform and
liberalization.

Under the agreement, the United States agrees to remove all import quotas upon Vietnam’s
accession to the WTO in exchange for the removal of trade barriers to exports entering Vietnam.
Textile lobbyists in Washington see the agreement as a victory for Vietnam at the expense of US
textile workers and pledged a major effort with Congress to review options that will protect their
interests.

Jim Chesnutt, president and CEO of New York City-based National Spinning Co. Inc. and chairman
of the National Council of Textile Organizations, said, “The agreement is a victory for unbalanced
and job-destroying trade policy and a severe blow to US textile manufacturers and their workers.”
He predicted a major flood of heavily subsidized imports that among other things could imperil the
Central America-Dominican Republic Free Trade Agreement.

Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, said
the deal is a disaster for US manufacturing and the US textile industry in particular. He expressed
the fear that the agreement will replicate the one with China, which he said has provided
advantages to China that have enabled it to run roughshod over US companies.

While textile manufacturers voiced their concern over the agreement, Laura E. Jones, executive
director of the New York City-based United States Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel,
hailed it as a historic pact that has tremendous benefits on two fronts. She added that importers
will look to place more orders in Vietnam, providing American consumers with more choices, and the
agreement will help create capital with which Vietnamese will be able to purchase more American
goods and services.

Jones said the agreement will bring Vietnam under the rules of the international trading system,
and its textile and apparel products will be controlled by multilateral rules and market forces
rather than unilateral quotas. Vietnam’s textile exports to the United States have been under
quotas since May 2002. She said the agreement is transparent and reasonable, and it responds to the
concerns of those who are worried about potential unfair trade advantages. Jones added it also
helps to eliminate an atmosphere of uncertainty created by a threat of resumed quotas.

Vietnam currently is the seventh-largest supplier of textile and apparel products to the US
market.

May 1, 2006

Picanol Introduces OMNIplus 800 TC For Tire Cord

Belgium-based Picanol NV reports its
new OMNIplus 800 TC air-jet weaving machine for the production of tire cord offers all the
important features of the original Omniplus 800 as well as extra features to optimize its
performance for tire-cord production.

Features include an ergonomic drawing-in unit that has separate yarn-entry and drive
sections, a weight-compensated batching motion and specific adaptations. The yarn-entry section
includes an aligned compensator, lease rods, warp stop motion, weaver’s platform and optional
expansion reed. The drive section features a double traction roll setup that offers absolutely
parallel alignment of cords, improved ergonomics, improved yarn tension equalization, increased
friction surface and optional pneumatically operated press roller, according to the company.

The gear-driven batching motion has precision spindles and lifting guides, and slides
underneath to allow symmetric loading. Adaptations include pneumatic tuckers at 900 revolutions per
minute (rpm) with cut reeds, air-assisted mechanical tuckers with full reed at 800 rpm, double
pressure rollers in the cloth take-up and optical selvage detectors. The use of Picanol’s SUMO
direct drives simplifies mechanical operation and reduces maintenance, the company reports.

Picanol offers in-house training for the Omniplus 800 TC as well as training on a fully
operational machine at its Günne division in Germany.


May/June 2006

Techtextil North America 2006: Innovator’s Focus


T
 echtextil North America, an international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens
held recently in Atlanta, proved a success for visitors and exhibitors alike. The show, in its
fourth edition, hosted 329 exhibitors from 25 countries, while there were a record 4,081
registrants from 43 countries. International exhibitor participation also increased, with the show
featuring 10 pavilions from Belgium, Canada, China, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, South Africa,
Taiwan and the United Kingdom.


Rogowski Keynote

Techtextil-Symposium North America, held concurrently with the show, opened with keynote
speaker Greg Rogowski, president and CEO, Richmond Va.-based Performance Fibers Inc. In his speech,
titled Navigating the New Global Economy, Rogowski noted fiber and textile companies survival in
todays competitive global economy depends on anticipating and reacting to rapid change. According
to Rogowski, that transformation mentality is key to the success of Performance Fibers, where
management uses adaptive planning and rapid implementation (APRI), described as continuous, focused
strategy and decisions. Rogowski said the APRI process requires commitment of both financial and
human capital, and acting in the short term for long-term benefits.

According to the company, under the ownership of Boca Raton, Fla.-based Sun Capital Partners
Inc. since late 2004, Performance Fibers has demonstrated its ability to make fast decisions and
investments to grow its business through a series of plant expansions and acquisitions over the
past year. It also recently signed a letter of intent to acquire Invista Resins & Fibers GmbHs
Germany-based polyester yarn business.

“It was great to hear the positive buzz on the growth of the industry and its boundless
opportunities for the future,” Rogowski said. Performance Fibers also participated as a Techtextil
exhibitor and sponsor.


Diverse Exhibitors And Visitors

“I thought the show was very well-attended,” said Dean Yarborough, director of new business
development of Columbia, S.C.-based based Shakespeare Co. LLC. “It provided an excellent
opportunity to discuss our products and value propositions with many diverse prospects and
customers. The environment was upbeat and optimistic, as more companies are beginning to find their
niches in the textile markets.”

Optimism was a common theme at the event. Udo Skarke, manager of Duncan, S.C.-based Erhardt +
Leimer Inc.’s Textile Division, said: “The visitors were great, and we had some very sound contacts
and leads from the show. There were very specialized companies and visitors with a focused and
specific need at the show, which makes it somewhat unique. We had our pick counter on display for
the first time, and we received very good feedback from interested companies. It was very important
to us that we not only were looking for contacts at our booth, but actually walked the show, making
contact with the exhibitors who were also our potential customers.”

 
rieter
Rieter showed technologies from its nonwovens and filament yarn technologies divisions at
Techtextil.

The show offered an international mix of fiber, yarn and fabric producers; as well as
machinery and chemical suppliers and end-users. Nonwovens was a hot topic.

Jean-Noel Cozon, vice president, of Fort Mill, S.C.-based N. Schlumberger (USA) Inc. a part
of the France-based NSC Group observed: This show has grown very well over the last three events
and was of particular interest in the high-technology fabrics and processes being showcased. It was
our first time as exhibitors, and we were very pleased with the contacts made. The show is simple
enough and short enough that it is possible, not only to see all that is being proposed, but also,
it does not need vast expense to showcase big equipment.

“NSC nonwovens strength and expertise is in providing state-of-the-art lines in
needlepunching as well as spunlacing. Although launched already at ITMA 1999, the ProDyn totally
flat nonwoven system continued to attract and interest many companies that have not supported the
ITMA shows in recent years. The ability to closely control the cost of fiber in a particular
nonwoven fabric has become an essential key to success in the current high-fiber-price climate. ”

“We liked the compact size and location close to many US nonwoven companies and the specific
focus on the nonwoven technologies of the future, rather than it being just a machinery show, Cozon
said. This was more about ideas, concepts and what is possible. ”

 
bemis
Bemis, Shirley, Mass., manufactures thermoplastic adhesives, coatings, tapes and specialty
film products for industrial and apparel end-uses.


Laminates And Adhesives

“We found the event to be very worthwhile this year,” said Karen Hesselbart, sales support
manager of Switzerland-based Ems-Griltech’s operation in Sumter, S.C.

In 2005, the company began offering flame-retardant adhesives for use in applications
including office furnishings, according to Hesselbart. In addition, information regarding adhesives
for filtration applications drew interest.

“Because Ems-Griltech offers the services of our Technical Service laboratory, we are able to
laminate samples of our adhesives for our customers to test various adhesives and processing
applications to best suit their business,” Hesselbart said.

“Many of our current customers attend this show, and this provides a great opportunity for us
to meet with them,” she added. “This venue offers our sales force the opportunity to meet many
customers in a short amount of time. Also, our engineers attend the show, and this allows our
engineers and the customers the opportunity to meet and discuss technical applications.”


Machinery And Textiles

Andrea Jonoch, area sales manager of Italy-based SMIT S.p.A., stated the company was
successful in meeting several customers interested in investing in new equipment for technical
textile products.

“We received orders for the GS900 reinforce loom, which we will finalize within April,”
Jonoch said. “Our customers exhibit textile products at the show, but at the same time know we are
present. They take advantage of the opportunity to meet with us, exchanging information, launching
new projects. This show helps us to consolidate SMITs image as a loom manufacturer for technical
fabrics. As a technical fabrics show, this is a niche of growing business in North America; it
drives the visitors that have interest in investing in new equipment. ”

As one of several fabric manufacturers at the show, Glen Raven Technical Fabrics a subsidiary
of Glen Raven, N.C.-based Glen Raven Inc. continued its pursuit of building its brands.

Hal Bates, marketing coordinator said: “From a marketing perspective, we are interested in
developing leads, but at Techtextil there are so many markets present auto, military, flame
protection, medical, outdoor and it was well-attended by all segments. It fits well with what we do
and where we want to head. There was also a wealth of yarn vendors that provided an additional
opportunity an added benefit. ”

Bates noted that because Techtextil is less market-specific, it is a place to make first
contacts and generate new leads rather than take orders. “But,” he continued, “in terms of lead
generation, this gives us an opportunity to develop new business. Current customers are here as
well, so this is an added dimension and an economical one.” For our market, Techtextil North
America is very focused.

“We are a private company; this is another avenue to publicize our Glen Raven brand,” Bates
continued. “We’ve got GlenGuard® FR, which is the lightest-weight flame-resistant fabric that is
NFPA 70E-rated for the protection of electrical workers. ”

“We will be at the next one and at other editions in Europe,” Bates added. “Wed like to see
it get bigger. Atlanta is a good location, but we would like to see it continue to grow. ”

 
glenraven
Glen Raven Technical Fabrics was at Techtextil to promote its Glen Raven brand.


Looking Forward

“We were extremely pleased with the high quality of the attendees this year, and we will be
continuing with our expanded attendee marketing campaign to ensure that this growth is repeated at
the next edition of the show,” said David Audrain, president, Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Inc.
The fifth edition of Techtextil North America will be held April 1-3, 2008, at the Cobb Galleria
Centre in Atlanta.


Techtextil-Symposium North America Highlights

Techtextil-Symposium North America attracted a record number of attendees to its 13 sessions.
Topics ranged from trade, the global marketplace and industry dynamics; to recent research,
emerging technologies, protective fabrics, high-performance fibers and textiles, nanotechnology,
technical nonwovens, and automotive textiles; to future development as seen from the end-users
perspective. With two or three concurrent sessions each presenting a wealth of information in most
time slots, attendees often were hard-pressed in choosing which to attend; and not a few switched
back and forth among the various programs to catch particular presentations within each.

Nanotechnology seemed to be everywhere. Two sessions were devoted exclusively to that topic
one concerning research and development, and the other presenting products and applications.
However, it also cropped up within sessions covering emerging technologies, high-performance fiber
developments, high-performance textile applications, and technical nonwovens research and
applications.

The ever-popular National Textile Center (NTC) technical textiles research session presented
seven projects ongoing at various universities that are members of the research consortium.
Potential applications include fuel cells, medical implant devices, fluid transport,
impact-resistant fabrics, performance and process additives and lubricants, ultra-high-modulus
aliphatic nylon fibers to replace high-density polyethylene or para-aramids, and comfort wear with
shape memory. Session Chair Martin Jacobs, NTC’s executive director, stressed in his introduction
that all technology developed through NTC is available for implementation by private industry.

A new session at this year’s symposium, Textiles: Look Forward for Future Generations,
delivered a wish list for textile solutions to problems encountered by end-product developers,
architects and designers. The presenters encouraged unconventional thinking among textile
developers, offering some very creative ideas about how textile products could address various
specifications.

– By Janet Bealer Rodie, Associate Editor

May/June 2006

ITM: Branded For Growth


I
 TM Textile Machinery Exhibition — a biennial event organized by Teknik Fuarcilik ve
Yayincilik Ltd., a Turkey-based textile publication and exhibition service — will return to
Istanbul, Turkey, for its 2006 edition, taking place June 27-July 2 at the CNR Expo International
Fair and Convention Center. The show is the second produced under the ITM banner in Istanbul and
the third in a series of textile machinery exhibitions produced by Teknik. The first, Bur-Tex 2002,
was staged in Bursa, some 100 kilometers (km) south of Istanbul across the Sea of Marmara, or 240
km by land.

Located at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, Turkey — with Istanbul as its commercial
capital — is a vibrant center of textile and apparel activity within a region that spans eastern
Europe and the Middle East. The country has a long history of textile production, including
traditional carpets and kilims that are still handwoven in Anatolian villages even today; regal
silk fabrics produced in Bursa during the time of the Ottoman Empire, mostly from silk threads and
yarns brought from farther east along the Silk Road to that centuries-old textile trading and
manufacturing center; and other fine woolens, cottons and velvets woven in Bursa and other textile
centers during that era.


The Turkish Textile Industry

Turkey’s modern textile and apparel
industry began to develop in earnest in the 1960s and ‘70s. Today, the industry comprises about
40,000 companies employing approximately one-third of the country’s industrial workforce and
supplying some 25 to 30 percent of its exports, according to Turkish Time, a publication of the
Turkish Exporters Assembly. In addition, US Department of Agriculture (USDA) statistics show Turkey
ranks eighth worldwide in cotton production, with 4.2 million 480-pound bales produced in the
2004/05 marketing season; and domestic cotton consumption for the same season totaled 7.1 million
bales, putting the country in fourth place in that category, after China, India and Pakistan.

According to a report published in the November 2004 issue of Turkish Time and written by
Musa Demir, a foreign trade expert with Turkey’s Foreign Trade Undersecretariat, the country’s
share of global textile exports — most of which are destined for the European Union, which Turkey
aspires to join — increased by 450 percent from the early 1980s up to the time of the report,
making it the 10th-largest textile exporter. Demir noted that Turkey’s textile imports increased
even more — by 1,270 percent — putting it in ninth place in that category. Even so, the country
remains generally a net exporter of textiles, as evidenced by trade statistics compiled by the
Geneva-based International Trade Centre (ITC). These data show 2004 exports of apparel and apparel
accessories, floor coverings and made-up articles were vastly higher than imports, while imports
dominated in trade of raw materials including fiber, yarn and most fabrics — with exceptions found
for man-made woven fabrics; knit and crocheted fabrics; and lace, trims, embroidery and such.

Turkey’s textile and apparel manufacturers have made significant investments in machinery,
with imports totaling US$1.4 billion in 2002 and US$1.7 billion in 2003, according to Demir. There
are a number of manufacturers’ representatives in Turkey, representing many of the major European
machinery makers as well as some US and Asian manufacturers. The country also counts a significant
number of domestic machinery manufacturers, which, in addition to selling to Turkish textile
manufacturers, also export their products — although in lower volumes than the imported machinery,
according to ITC statistics.

The country prides itself on the high quality and competitive prices of its textile
products, according to Kürsad Tüzmen, state minister responsible for foreign trade and customs,
writing in the November 2004 issue of Turkish Time. In addition, he wrote, the industry also “
offers a modern and civilized environment of production, structured by an understanding of social
and environmental responsibility, legal compatibility to international law, sustainability in
quality and fast delivery.”

The Turkish textile industry, while strong, has gone through fluctuations in recent years,
and today faces challenges brought on by the removal of quotas in January 2005 in line with World
Trade Organization (WTO) policies for member countries and the resulting rapidly rising volume of
inexpensive textile products — particularly apparel products — coming out of China into the global
marketplace. The challenges are exemplified in textile trade statistics for Turkish textile and
apparel shipments into the United States, as provided by the US Department of Commerce
International Trade Administration’s Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA). According to OTEXA
data comparing year-end shipments between January 2005 and January 2006, the value of total
shipments was down by 11.8 percent to $1.6 billion. Within that total, apparel shipments dropped by
22.5 percent to $913 million, while nonapparel shipments rose to $655.7 million, for a 9-percent
gain.

Turkey has worked actively to influence the WTO to consider textile-related issues
separately from other trade issues in light of the particularly drastic impacts of the quota
removal on the global industry. Its proposal that the WTO establish a separate textile sectoral
negotiation within its Non-Agricultural Market Access talks has received support from US textile
trade organizations as well as from several other countries that have been, or expect to be,
adversely impacted by the removal of textile and apparel quotas. At the same time, the proposal has
been sharply criticized by China and Pakistan, among other countries that are benefiting from quota
removals, as running counter to the WTO’s objectives to liberalize trade, according to a report
published in Bridges, the Geneva-based International Centre for Trade and Sustainable Development’s
weekly trade news digest.

Turkey also recently reduced its value-added tax on textiles as a protective measure to
bolster its domestic industry, a move that has drawn concern from the International Monetary Fund
(IMF), which agreed to provide a $10 billion loan to Turkey to help it deflect a financial crisis
in 2001. The IMF fears such action might threaten Turkey’s ability to restore its financial health.

Even so, the country’s overall economic health has been improving since 2001. According to
the latest report from the Turkish Statistical Institute, Turkish gross national product (GNP) rose
by 7.6 percent for 2005, including a hefty 10.2-percent gain for the fourth quarter over
year-earlier GNP.

 
cnraerial
CNR Expo offers 150,000 square meters of exhibition space in 10 halls.


ITM – Regional Showcase

ITM 2004 drew 770 exhibiting
companies including 650 foreign businesses. According to Teknik, the high volume of participation
from major textile machinery and accessories manufacturers attracted approximately 60,000 visitors,
primarily from the Middle East and eastern Europe, but also from several western European
countries, the United States, Russia and the Far East.

Building on the success of the 2004 show and bolstered by aggressive publicity efforts, ITM
2006 is moving from the 2004 venue, Tüyap Fair Convention and Congress Center, into the CNR Expo —
Turkey’s largest exhibition center, with 10 halls comprising 150,000 square meters of exhibition
area. As a result, says Necip Güney, sales and marketing director, Teknik, “serious foreign visitor
attendance” is anticipated at ITM 2006.

The full list of product categories includes: cotton and man-made fiber preparation
machinery and accessories; yarn twisting machinery; yarn preparation machinery, spare parts and
accessories; nonwovens machinery; weaving preparation machinery and equipment; weaving machinery,
spare parts and accessories; narrow loom and quilting machinery; circular and flat knitting
machinery, accessories and equipment; dyeing, printing and finishing machinery and equipment;
laboratory equipment and quality control systems; computer-aided design/computer-aided
manufacturing/computer-integrated manufacturing applications and automation systems; and textile
chemicals.

The larger venue enables organizers to devote up to five halls to dyeing, printing and
finishing; two to spinning; two to weaving; and one primarily to circular and flat knitting
machinery and equipment. Already, exhibit space in the weaving, yarn, and dyeing and finishing
halls is sold out, and organizers say leading technology developers from Belgium, England, France,
Germany, Italy and Switzerland will be present to show their latest innovations.

 
boat
The Bosphorous Bridge spans the Bosphorous Strait and connects Istanbul’s European and
Asian sectors.

ITM organizers cite Turkey’s easy
access and central position within the region as advantages that draw both exhibitors and visitors
to ITM, and also note the show is less expensive to participate in than major textile machinery
exhibitions staged in Europe and the Far East. In promoting ITM as a comprehensive, branded
international exhibition taking place every two to three years within their own region, they
believe the show will be a more effective venue for exhibitors to bring their products and
innovations to their buyers than smaller, more frequent and localized shows. As Technical
Operations Director Ümit Vural notes, “[At] least two years is necessary for formation of a certain
synergy.”

ITM’s biennial format is supported by Turkey’s machinery manufacturers’ representatives as
well. Mehmet Saraçoglu, general manager, Sarteks Tekstil, points out: “An exhibition is held if
there’s something new …. [I]n order to persuade the foreign manufacturers to come here and join the
exhibitions, they should have a new product to show, and we should be promoting them in Turkey.” He
decries sector-specific shows that are staged more frequently as ”catalog exhibitions” that are
little more than opportunities for the participants to get together.

 
mosque
Istanbul’s Sultanahmet Mosque, or Blue Mosque – built from 1609 to 1616 for Sultan Ahmet 1
– is the only mosque in Turkey with six minarets.

ITM organizers cite Turkey’s easy
access and central position within the region as advantages that draw both exhibitors and visitors
to ITM, and also note the show is less expensive to participate in than major textile machinery
exhibitions staged in Europe and the Far East. In promoting ITM as a comprehensive, branded
international exhibition taking place every two to three years within their own region, they
believe the show will be a more effective venue for exhibitors to bring their products and
innovations to their buyers than smaller, more frequent and localized shows. As Technical
Operations Director Ümit Vural notes, “[At] least two years is necessary for formation of a certain
synergy.”

ITM’s biennial format is supported by Turkey’s machinery manufacturers’ representatives as
well. Mehmet Saraçoglu, general manager, Sarteks Tekstil, points out: “An exhibition is held if
there’s something new …. [I]n order to persuade the foreign manufacturers to come here and join the
exhibitions, they should have a new product to show, and we should be promoting them in Turkey.” He
decries sector-specific shows that are staged more frequently as ”catalog exhibitions” that are
little more than opportunities for the participants to get together.

The Turkish agencies play an important role in providing sales and service of foreign-made
machinery to Turkish textile manufacturers. As Gürcan Bakkalci — founder of Barok Tekstil Ltd.,
which represents Italy-based SMIT S.p.A. — points out, the local representatives know the local
factory owners and how they look at their businesses. He says the traditional investor in Turkey “
is fearless in machine purchasing and renovation, enterprising and ambitious,” and adds, “The ones
who know these entrepreneurs can understand that sales of textile machines will continue in the
same trend in the future.” Bakkalci supports ITM as a biennial show “in a country where there are
investments that continue with regular, systematic updates.”

According to Turgut Karabulut, general manager, Erler Makine ve Mümessillik, Turkey is one
of the top sales markets for the companies Erler represents. Among those companies are Trützschler
GmbH & Co. KG, Schlafhorst, Saurer Allma, Zinser and Volkmann — all based in Germany; and a
number of others.

“Turkey is the right place and they open offices in order to provide better service. Each
company has different inspectors who live in Turkey,” Karabulut said, noting Erler also operates a
large spare parts store and maintenance workshop to service customers of the companies it
represents.

While foreign manufacturers will be well-represented at ITM 2006, both under the auspices of
their local agencies and under their own banners, domestic manufacturers will certainly not be
absent from the show. As mentioned above, they do significant business not only in Turkey, but also
with customers in the surrounding region and beyond. For example, Alkan Makine has been
manufacturing machinery for the dyeing and finishing sector since 1974. CEO Cüneyt Alkan says the
company’s products comprise 15 to 20 percent of the Turkish market, and it also exports machinery
to 16 other countries, with an eye as well on the US and European markets.

“ITM … will serve as a bridge that connects the Middle East and Turkic Republics with the
European textile market, and it will shape the textile investments in that region,” Alkan said. “
Also, ITM exhibitions are very important in order to increase the trust to domestic machine
producers in the Turkish textile industry.”

 
kulesi
Kiz Kulesi, built on an island at the entrance of the Bosphorous Strait, has a history
dating back to 341 B.C.


Italian Textile Machinery At ITM 2006

Italian manufacturers of textile
machinery have responded positively to ITM 2006. More than 100 Italian companies will exhibit at
this year’s show, a testament to the importance of the Turkish market to Italian machinery
companies.

The prominent role played by Turkey’s textile and clothing sector internationally has made
the country one of the world’s leading markets for textile machinery. In 2005, Italian companies
exported 232 million euros worth of textile machinery to the Turkish market, which confirmed Turkey
as a leading world market for the Italian textile machinery industry.

The most requested Italian machines by Turkey are weaving machines — 27 percent of 2005
exports, knitting machines — 26 percent, and finishing machines — 25 percent.

The 300 Italian companies, with 23,000 employees, which in 2005 produced machinery for a
value of 2,600 million euros, pay the highest attention to the requests of the textile industry to
propose new solutions of innovation, productivity and safety with the utmost satisfaction of their
clients.

On its parts, the Milan-based Italian Association of Textile Machinery Manufacturers
(ACIMIT), in collaboration with the Italian Trade Commission, has had several opportunities to meet
the Turkish textile machinery sector, as it has set up over the years an intensive program for
increasing contacts between operators from the two countries.

— By Mauro Badanelli, economist, ACIMIT Press and Economics Office


French Textile Machinery At ITM 2006

The Paris-based French Textile
Machinery Manufacturers Association (UCTMF) will support its member companies at ITM 2006.

“What is very interesting in Turkey is that you find there the whole textile industry from
spinning, weaving and knitting to finishing and the customers, the apparel and home textile
industry, as well as the technical textiles producers including nonwovens usages,” said Evelyne
Cholet, secretary general, UCTMF.

In 2005, approximately US$120 million worth of textile machinery was shipped from France to
Turkey. “Turkey is a very important market for our associates,” Cholet said. “In 2005, more than 12
percent of our exports, which represent a world total of $1 billion, were shipped to Turkey; it is
second to China only.

“We are also going to ITM 2006 to meet our customers and prospects from neighboring
countries as Iran, Syria, Russia, Egypt, Bulgaria, Georgia, Uzbekistan and many more,” Cholet
added, noting French companies strive to offer state-of-the-art machinery and have established
long-term relationships with their customers in Turkey.

French companies and companies with subsidiaries in France that will participate in ITM 2006
include Alliance Machines Textiles, Bekaert Carding Solutions, Laroche, Rieter Filament Yarn
Technologies, N. Schlumberger, Stäubli and Superba.

For more information about ITM 2006, contact Teknik Fuarcilik Ltd., Fabrikalar Cd. No:1 Besyol,
Florya, Istanbul, Turkey; (90) 212-592-59-92; fax (90) 212-599-38-82; info@teknikfuarcilik.com;
www.itm2006.com.

May/June 2006

Fruit Of The Loom Closes Rabun Apparel Operations

Bowling Green, Ky.-based underwear,
T-shirt and activewear manufacturer Fruit of the Loom Inc. announced it will shut down its Rabun
Apparel Inc. yarn and textile operation in Rabun Gap, Ga., by Aug. 26, 2006. The company said
continued imports of Chinese and Far Eastern textile and apparel products into the US market have
taken market share away from US manufacturers.

The plant currently employs approximately 930 workers and is the largest employer in Rabun
County, according to the Clayton, Ga.-based Rabun County Economic Development Authority. The
company will offer these employees a range of outplacement services with assistance from a rapid
response team organized by the Georgia Department of Labor.

“This decision is in no way a reflection upon the efforts of our dedicated employees,” said
Lynn Wilson, general manager. “The Rabun Gap facility has always performed well for the company. We
thank all our dedicated employees for their service and encourage other area employers to give
these excellent workers every consideration for employment opportunities.”


May/June 2006

White Biotechnology And Modern Textile Processing


M
 odern society expects biotechnology to be the answer for many worldwide problems like
depletion of energy sources, incurable illnesses and pollution, among other problems.

Industrial use of biotechnology, known as white biotechnology, is bringing about new products
and processes aimed at the use of renewable resources, as well as the application of green
technologies with low energy consumption and environmentally healthy practices.

Textile processing is a growing industry that traditionally has used a lot of water, energy
and harsh chemicals — starting from pesticides for cotton-growing to high amounts of wash waters
that result in waste streams causing high environmental burdens. As textile fibers are polymers,
the majority being of natural origin, it is reasonable to expect there would be a lot of
opportunities for the application of white biotechnology to textile processing. Enzymes —nature’s
catalysts — are the logical tools for development of new biotechnology-based solutions for textile
wet processing.

Though the focus on white biotechnology is a new phenomenon, the use of enzymes in textile
treatment has a long history. Biotechnology-based processes were applied nearly 2,000 years ago,
when microbes were used as aids in bast fiber-retting. The first enzyme application, as early as
1912, was the use of barley for removal of starchy size from woven fabrics. The first microbial
amylases were used in the 1950s for the same desizing process, which today is routinely used by the
industry. Since then, several other enzymes have been introduced for industrial applications; and
enzymes such as cellulases, catalases, laccases and pectinases are increasingly gaining a foothold
in the textile industry as improved application processes are developed. The use of enzyme
technology is attractive because enzymes are highly specific and efficient, and work under mild
conditions. Furthermore, the use of enzymes results in reduced process times, energy and water
savings; improved product quality; and potential process integration. Following is a review of
common enzymes currently used in textile applications.

 
deeptank
Deep tank fermentors are used to produce enzymes.


Cellulase For Look,

Surface And Hand Modification

Cellulase enzymes were first
introduced after decades of amylase usage as an industry standard for desizing processes. During
the 1970s, the popularity of denim garments increased as new garment wet processes changed denim’s
look and feel from the hard, dark blue garments used as workwear into soft and smooth fashion items
with an abraded look. Surprisingly, this look, first achieved by using pumice stones, also can be
attained using cellulase enzymes. Cellulases loosen the surface fibers of the denim garment so that
mechanical action in a washing machine breaks the surface to remove the indigo dye, revealing the
white core of the ring-dyed yarns. The first cellulase products for this application were
introduced in the 1980s, and today, most denim garments are “stonewashed” using cellulases, either
alone or in combination with a reduced amount of stones. The introduction of cellulases resulted in
increased washing capacity for the laundries, and reduced damage to garments as well as to washing
machines, in addition to diminishing environmental effects from pumice stone mining and disposal of
used pumice.

It also was realized that cellulase applications could be extended to surface and hand
modification of cellulosics. The small fibers or fibrils protruding from the fabric render a fuzzy
surface, and the gradual entanglement of fibrils results in the formation of pills when a garment
is worn and washed. Removal of surface fibrils improves fabric quality, keeping the garment in good
form for a longer time. The use of cellulases, combined with the synergistic action of the
processing machines, is effective in removing the fibrils, leading to permanent improvement of
fabric quality, including cleaner and smoother surface, softer hand and improved fabric drape. This
treatment, called biopolishing, is widely used today in garment processing and in batch processing
of woven and knitted fabrics. As today’s process needs a dwell time of 20 to 40 minutes in a
high-mechanical-action system, the challenge is to create a consistent, continuous biopolishing
process.

Cellulases have been used in the textile industry for approximately two decades for denim
stonewashing and biopolishing of garments and fabrics. The first generation of products was based
on the natural ability of certain microbes to degrade cellulose. In their growth environment, these
microbes excrete a wide variety of proteins, which work in several ways to break down cellulose.
The development of modern biotechnology brought tools with which scientists could create new,
better enzymes for specific applications. Using these tools, it has been possible to create a new
generation of cellulase products containing different kinds of protein molecules or molecule
blends, thus offering improved performance features compared to the naturally occurring enzyme
systems.

Genetic engineering was used to enhance the desired activities of the cellulase complex and
delete the undesired molecules. This work resulted in several patents with claims of improved
performance based on selection of the right types of cellulase molecules. Enzyme manufacturers were
able to come up with new products, which could be enriched in endoglucanase activity, deleted in
the exo-acting cellobiohydrolase activity, or even be based on a single type of cellulase molecule.
As different fabric types have varying susceptibility for cellulase hydrolysis, and different
enzymes vary in their aggressiveness, choosing the right type of enzyme is essential to optimize
the result on a certain fiber type. Figure 1 shows a good example of how different fibers perform
under the same biofinishing treatment conditions: Lyocell, which is an extremely strong fiber that
is resistant to cellulase hydrolysis, does not lose much of its strength after treatment; whereas
linen, which is highly susceptible to cellulase attack, can be destroyed easily by the same
treatment.

 
Page42

Catalse For

Sustainable Hydrogen Peroxide Removal




Today’s textile processing industry uses a lot of hydrogen peroxide for bleaching of greige
goods before dyeing or printing. After the bleaching process, the residual peroxide in the bath
needs to be removed before the fabric enters the dyeing process, as the presence of peroxide
changes the dye shade and causes an uneven dyeing result. Traditionally, peroxide removal has been
done using several consecutive rinses with plentiful water, or using reducing chemicals such as
bisulphite to break down the peroxide. Both methods are unreliable and call for high water
consumption. A more modern way to remove peroxide involves the use of a catalase enzyme, which
breaks down hydrogen peroxide into water and molecular oxygen. The advantage of this process is the
end products are natural to the environment and do not disturb the dyeing process. Also, the
catalase enzyme itself is very specific: When the peroxide is gone, the enzyme does not react with
anything else, and thus there is no need to remove or inactivate it. The use of catalases has been
the fastest-growing enzyme application in textiles in recent years.

The first uses of biotechnology for textile processing have encouraged scientists to further
explore the use of enzymes. Although the biggest market today is for the use of cellulases in denim
washing, there is a willingness to step out of the “denim box” in order to create applications that
would impact the whole industry. The use of catalases is a good first step towards this goal. It
simplifies the bleaching process — giving more reliability in peroxide removal, thereby
guaranteeing consistency for subsequent dyeing. The reductions in water consumption and wastewater
disposal further add to total process cost savings.


Pectinases For

Sustainable Cotton Pretreatment

Today, efforts within the textile
industry seem to focus on replacing traditional natural-fiber scouring processes with enzyme-based
solutions. As the purpose of scouring is to remove natural impurities — such as polymeric
substances like pectins, waxes and xylomannans, among others — from cotton or other natural fibers,
there are plenty of enzymes that can act on such impurities. Alkaline pectinase, which loosens
fiber structure by removing pectins between cellulose fibrils and eases the wash-off of waxy
impurities, is the key enzyme for a bioscouring process. Other enzymes including cellulases,
hemicellulases, proteases and lipases have been tested; but at present, the only commercial
bioscouring enzyme products are based on pectinases.

Compared to the conventional alkaline boil-off, an efficient bioscouring process provides
many advantages, such as reduced water and wastewater costs, reduced treatment time and lower
energy consumption because of lower treatment temperature. Moreover, the weight loss in fabric is
reduced, and fabric quality is improved with a superior hand and reduced strength loss.

However, there are several obstacles in the way of successfully commercializing the
bioscouring process, primarily its inability to remove motes — the remainders of cottonseed
fragments. Thus, a separate bleaching step would be needed after the bioscouring process. On the
other hand, the alkaline boil-off can be combined with simultaneous peroxide bleaching to
efficiently remove the motes. As motes are not acceptable on fabrics other than those that will be
dyed to dark shades, bioscouring will have limited usage unless a simultaneous mote-removal process
is developed.

Another limitation of pectinase treatment is that its efficiency varies with the quality of
fabric. As the enzyme does not break down waxes, a high-temperature treatment with surfactants is
needed for a sufficient degree of hydrophilicity to guarantee even dyeing or printing. The
enzymatic treatment also is limited to discontinuous processes, as the enzyme needs reasonably long
reaction times, and controlling its performance in a continuous process is difficult.

 
pectinase
A schematic of a cellulase molecule


Enzymes For Other Textile Applications


In order to create a successful bio-based pretreatment for fabrics, it would be essential to
develop an enzymatic bleaching process, which is being investigated. The group of enzymes called
laccases, or phenol oxidases, possesses the ability to catalyze the oxidation of a wide range of
phenolic substances, including indigo. Laccases alone are not effective as bleaching agents, but
need to be applied with a mediator molecule, which is the actual substrate of the laccase and which
mediates electron transfer from, for example, indigo to molecular oxygen. The first commercial use
of laccases in the textile industry has been in the denim-washing process, where laccase-mediator
systems have been used to reduce backstaining, enhance abrasion levels and bleach indigo. However,
it has not been possible to show bleaching effects with a laccase-mediator system on greige cotton.

Another approach for enzymatic bleaching would be creation of peroxide in situ. This
approach of using enzymes like glucose oxidase to create hydrogen peroxide from glucose and
molecular oxygen has been discussed in several scientific publications. In principle, it is
possible to use amylases to break down starchy sizes into glucose, and then oxidize this glucose
into gluconic acid and hydrogen peroxide in a combined desizing-bleaching process. This process,
however, does not seem to have reached a state of commercial feasibility.

Finally, peroxidases, which are able
to activate peroxides in mild conditions, have been studied for applications in textile bleaching
processes. However, their use has not shown a satisfactory bleaching effect so far.

An efficient biopreparation process should be based on a combination, preferably
simultaneously, of enzymes for desizing, scouring and bleaching in one bath. Success in developing
such a process would result in a simple process, including savings in water, time and energy
consumption. The environmental impact would be minimized by low to no use of harsh chemicals and
lowered waste burdens, rendering a fabric of higher quality.


The Future Of White Biotechnology

Today, white biotechnology is geared
towards creating new materials and biobased fuels from agricultural waste and providing alternative
biobased routes to chemical processes. These efforts could lead to the development of improved
enzymes such as amylases, hemicellulases or cellulases that could be used in the textile industry.
The possibility of leveraging innovations over industries could lead to new opportunities for
biobased textile processes. New enzymes with high specific activity, increased reaction speed, and
tolerance to more extreme temperatures and pHs could result in development of continuous processes
for bioscouring or biofinishing of cellulosic fibers. Development of other processes in the future
could also expand the use of enzymes on natural fibers into use on man-made fibers such as nylon
and polyester.

Editor’s Note: Anna-Liisa Auterinen is director, textile products, Genencor International BV,
The Netherlands.

May/June 2006

Arch Chemicals Launches Purista® In The United States

Norwalk, Conn.-based Arch Chemicals
Inc. now offers its Purista® textile freshness-enhancing treatment commercially in the United
States. According to the company, Purista, applied to fabric during manufacturing, protects fabrics
from odor-causing bacteria and offers a long-lasting “fresh finish.”

“The success of Purista freshness-enhancing treatment in the United Kingdom and Southeast
Asia, combined with new market research about the preferences of American consumers, indicates that
the US market is ready for this product,” said Peter Cowey, international business manager for Arch
Chemical’s textile treatment business.


May/June 2006

Trade Talks In Trouble As Deadline Passes

A top US trade official has expressed his disappointment that trade ministers at the World Trade
Organization (WTO) failed to meet an April 30 deadline to agree on how to proceed with trade
liberalization negotiations, which many say must be concluded by the end of this year.

Peter Allgeier, US Ambassador to the WTO, told a meeting of trade negotiators that failure to
meet the April 30 deadline was more than a disappointment; it raises serious questions about our
collective commitment to the Doha Round goals of significant liberalization and reform of trade
this year. Trade officials had set an April 30 deadline to complete the so-called modalities that
would set out the procedures for carrying out negotiations.

A new deadline of July 31 has been set, raising major concerns that it would not be enough time
to reach agreement on a wide range of agriculture, industrial and consumer trade issues.

The end-of-2006 goal to complete the negotiations is considered critical, as that would give the
US Congress time to ratify the agreement under the president’s trade promotion authority (TPA),
which expires in July 2007. Under TPA, what will likely be an intricate trade agreement can only be
given an up or down vote in Congress without any amendments permitted. With the present mood in
Congress with regard to trade, there is no assurance that TPA would be extended.

Both textile manufacturers and importers of textiles and apparel would like to see the Doha
Round move forward, but for different reasons. Textile manufacturers are braced for some tariff
reductions, but they hope the round would result in something more important to them – a
safeguard mechanism that would permit the imposition of import quotas where there is market
disruption or a threat of market disruption. Imports see the tariff cuts that will be proposed as
part of the Doha Round as a way to get the products they need at the best prices from a wide
variety of sources.

Looking at the new July deadline, Allgeier called for negotiators to get serious now and not
backload all the tough decisions until July through inaction. “We can bring the Doha Round to a
successful conclusion by the end of this year if we stay focused on the job at hand and make the
necessary decisions,” Algeier said. “We need to do this in the coming weeks. We do not have the
luxury of postponing decisions on agriculture and manufacturing modalities until the end of July –
we must start to see the shape of the overall package in July.” He added the trade ministers have
an enormous challenge in the days ahead.

However, he said the United States remains committed to the very highest level of success, and
it is prepared to exercise the will, devote the resources, provide the leadership and work with the
rest of the WTO membership.

May 1, 2006

Frontier, Cheraw Merge Businesses

Frontier Spinning Mills Inc.,
Sanford, N.C., and Cheraw, S.C.-based Cheraw Yarn Mills have merged their businesses. Cheraw now
operates as a division of Frontier, retaining its name and management team, according to Bill
Malloy, Cheraw’s vice president.

“We’re pretty excited about the merger,” Malloy said, adding that the two companies are a “
good fit” for each other. He explained that Cheraw spins open-end cotton, polyester/cotton and
polyester yarns for specialized, niche applications, while Frontier — which spins cotton and
cotton/blend yarns using open-end, air-jet and vortex machinery — is more volume-oriented.

Cheraw will retain all of its employees, who number approximately 165, and also plans to
install new equipment, Malloy added.

Frontier operates seven other plants in various locations in North Carolina and Alabama, and
employs approximately 1,500 people, not including those at Cheraw.

The merger with Cheraw comes on the heels of Frontier’s acquisition of the Columbus,
Ga.-based denim spinning operation of Swift Galey, an Atlanta-based apparel, home and hospitality
textiles manufacturer. Frontier will move the machinery from that operation to plants in North
Carolina, and will spin yarn for Swift Galey’s denim fabrics.


May/June 2006

Treasury Dept. Fails To Cite China As A Currency Manipulator

Textile lobbyists have reacted sharply to the US Treasury Department’s decision not to label
China a currency manipulator. The administration opted instead to continue informal discussions on
what is viewed by textiles and other industries as a serious currency undervaluation.

In a semiannual report mandated by Congress, the Treasury Department said there is not
sufficient evidence that China is manipulating its currency in order to gain an unfair advantage in
international trade. The report did note, “[F]ar too little progress has been made in introducing a
flexible exchange rate.” The sticking point is that in order to label China a currency manipulator,
subject to actions by the US government, it must be determined there is an intent to gain an
advantage. The report said the technical requirements for China to be designated a manipulator
under US law have not been met.

The report said that in July 2005, China abandoned its eight-year peg to the dollar and moved to
a managed floating exchange regime. Since that time, China’s currency, the renminbi, has
appreciated 2.6 percent against the dollar. US textile trade officials contend that current
exchange rate amounts to as much as a 40-percent subsidy for China’s imports. Despite the
discrepancy and a surging US trade deficit with China, the report says China continues to take
steps to create market infrastructure and financial instruments for floating currency. It adds that
China’s commitment to move to a flexible exchange rate is clear and has been repeated at the
highest levels of the Chinese leadership.

Textile industry representatives in Washington and congressional supporters sharply attacked the
report.

Charging that the US government kowtows to China, the American Manufacturing Trade Action
Coalition (AMTAC), which represents a wide range of manufacturers including textiles and labor,
said, “[D]ialogue with China is not enough; the US industry needs action now.”

 AMTAC Executive Director Auggie Tantillo stated: “The US trade deficit with China was $202
billion in 2005, and the US manufacturing sector has lost more than 2.8 million jobs since the
beginning of 2001. Rome is burning. How much longer will the US government fiddle while the US
industry bleeds?”

Rep. Robin Hayes, R-N.C., challenged the conclusions of the report and cited what he called the
devastating effect the exchange rate problem has had on the domestic textile industry. In a letter
to Treasury Secretary John W. Snow, Hayes said, “I wholeheartedly disagree with this report, and I
can tell you on behalf of the constituents of the 8th District of North Carolina and manufacturers
across the nation we want action against China now.”

Cass Johnson, president of the National Council of Textile Organizations, said China has shown
it won’t do anything until the US government shows there are consequences, and he called for
Congress to enact legislation that would levy punitive sanctions on China. Sens. Charles E.
Schumer, D-N.Y., and Lindsey O. Graham, R-S.C., have introduced legislation that would levy a
27.5-percent duty on China’s imports unless it reforms its currency. Although Schumer says he is
unhappy with the Treasury Department report, he is willing to postpone a vote on the bill until
September. There also is legislation in the House that would enable US industries to take punitive
actions against China. That bill has more than 150 cosponsors, but action is not expected in the
near future.

On May 15, the Bank of China permitted a slight increase in China’s currency against the dollar
in a move that Treasury Department officials say is evidence that diplomacy can work.

May 1, 2006

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