The former “Shelby” DuraFiber Technologies plant in Grover, N.C., has been purchased by Fiber Innovators International LLC, a joint venture between Wilmington, N.C.-based PolyQuest Inc. and Straterra Holdings — a company comprised of key DuraFiber executives. The facility manufactures medium- and high-tenacity industrial polyester filament including some unique filaments for technical applications, and supplies both domestic and global customers.
“We are pleased that we have been able to consummate this deal with Straterra Holdings and plan for additional investments in Grover,” said John Marinelli, CEO, PolyQuest. “Strategic customer relationships and retention of our excellent employees are two of the primary keys at Grover. Our workforce has the skills and talent to produce a highly engineered filament that has been and will remain a standard in the industry. We plan to support the growing technical needs of our key accounts for many years.”
In related news, Germany-based DuraFiber Technologies GmbH now operates as a stand-alone company after a management buyout in collaboration with a strategic investor. A new parent company has been formed, and a name change will be announced in the near future. The plant produces high-tenacity multifilament yarns including polyethylene terephalate, polyetheretherketone, polyphenylene sulfide and polybutylene terephalate for a wide variety of specialty applications requiring high strength.
DuraFiber Technologies, headquartered in Huntersville, N.C., closed its remaining two U.S. operations in Salisbury, N.C., and Winnsboro, S.C., and filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy with the U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Delaware.
Dr. Kathy Lawrence and Dr. Gary Lawrence are researching new ways to preserve cotton quality without harmful pesticides.
Cotton Council International recently launched a new promotional campaign for U.S.-grown cotton
TW Special Report
This year, Washington-based Cotton Council International (CCI) — the export promotions arm of the National Cotton Council (NCC), Cordova, Tenn. — launched a new campaign for U.S.-grown cotton: “COTTON USA is the Cotton the World Trusts.” The entire U.S. cotton industry — farmers, ginners, warehousers, merchants, classers, cooperatives, and manufacturers — is proud to be able to work together to create cotton fiber that is preferred for quality and is truly “The Cotton The World Trusts.” CCI carries this message to more than 50 countries through its 20 worldwide offices.
U.S. cotton offers manufacturers, as well as consumers, many benefits. It is a high-quality fiber produced in a sustainable and transparent manner while harnessing the latest industry innovations and offering premium value.
Sustainability
U.S. cotton is produced sustainably and is fairly grown. Family farmers own the land. Their fields have been in their families for generations, so it’s in their own best interest to protect them for future generations.
Furthermore, U.S. cotton is governed by a strict regulatory system. Environmental and workplace regulations are strictly enforced by federal and state agencies and the penalties for non-compliance are both civil and criminal. Farmers fill out extensive paperwork and are inspected by both state and federal officials. This comprehensive system of sustainability measurement is at the forefront of the industry.
Figure 1 shows the U.S. cotton industry’s continuing commitment to the environment with 35 years of reduced environmental impact.
Figure 1
The U.S. cotton industry also uses Precision Agricultural Management — innovative technologies that use high-tech measurement systems driven by computers to achieve high quality and yield using less water and fewer chemicals. New technologies are the key drivers for precision agriculture. For example, unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) technology allows producers to “map” fields, so they know exactly where inputs are needed, and they can use small precise dosages of water or plant protection products. Computer driven moisture sensors improve water efficiency. “No tillage” techniques also are employed to preserve the soil.
James Wray uses Unmanned Aerial Vehicle technology to help him apply water only where it’s needed.
With the goal of helping its members meet their current needs while making the world a better place for future generations, the U.S. cotton industry is setting goals that aim to build upon the strong environmental gains already achieved over the past 30 years.
“Our industry wants to be the supplier of choice for those who are committed to only buying cotton that is produced with sustainable and responsible environmental, safety and labor practices,” said NCC Chairman Ronnie Lee, a Georgia cotton producer. “That is the objective that was set by the Council’s COTTON USA Sustainability Task Force.”
Task Force Chairman Ted Schneider, a Louisiana cotton producer, said the actual sustainability resolution that the Council adopted earlier this year called for the creation of the sustainability task force and specified that it collaborate with U.S. cotton industry associations “on developing industry-wide goals for measurable continual improvements in environmental stewardship, farm productivity, and resource efficiency such as land, water, air, input, and energy use.”
Schneider mentioned some of the specific goals being pursued by 2025, including:
reducing by 13 percent the amount of land needed to produce a pound of cotton fiber;
reducing soil loss by 50 percent, in balance with new soil formation;
increasing water use efficiency — more fiber per gallon — by 18 percent;
reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 39 percent;
increasing soil carbon in fields by 30 percent; and
reducing energy to produce seed cotton and ginned lint by 15 percent.
“U.S. cotton growers have achieved significant environmental gains over the past three decades,” explained Schneider. “The goals are meant to continue that trend and to reinvigorate efforts through the setting of realistic targeted reductions.”
“We believe the United States may be the only country in the world with these kind of specific, measurable, quantified goals,” said Dahlen Hancock, chairman of Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated’s Board of Directors. Cotton Incorporated’s scientists have worked diligently to develop and refine U.S. cotton’s sustainability initiative.
Hancock, who is a Texas cotton producer, said the U.S. cotton industry is using science-based metrics and benchmarks developed by Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture to assess environmental impacts and identify opportunities for improvement. Field to Market works across the entire agricultural supply chain to define, measure and advance the sustainability of U.S. crop production.
Hancock also is the former chairman of CCI, and said the organization looks forward to “sharing with U.S. cotton’s global customers the strides our industry will continue to make in providing the world with responsibly produced, quality fiber.”
Byron Cole, area director of the Memphis Classing Office, with the latest cotton classing technology.
Quality
Quality in. Quality out. That’s why, when mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers want strong, consistent and uniform fibers, they turn to COTTON USA. Since the mid-1980s, U.S. cotton fiber has undergone an enormous transformation. Intensive research and superior technology has produced a cotton product that’s now whiter, finer, stronger and cleaner.
The U.S. cotton industry prides itself on offering high quality, no matter what grade of cotton is specified. From jeans to sheets to the finest white shirts, the industry delivers. A comparison of the classing data from the last 10 years shows that the U.S. cotton industry has truly become a one-stop supermarket of cottons.
U.S. cotton is 100-percent machine-picked cotton. And the U.S. cotton industry has an ongoing and continuing commitment to educate growers and ginners on the latest technologies and practices for the elimination of potential sources of contamination.
U.S. cotton’s fiber fineness, or micronaire, and color quality also are excellent. Micronaire is key to producing yarns for knit fabric formers. And U.S. cotton makes the job of dyeing yarn much easier. Most U.S. cotton now classes as a white grade, the easiest fiber to dye, as compared to spotted or tinged grade.
As spinning and fabric forming speeds increased, perhaps the greatest demand on fiber was for increased strength. The U.S. cotton industry uses innovative seed varieties scientifically developed to provide stronger, longer cotton fibers. The longer fiber allows for more twist to be applied during spinning. The increase in twist produces yarn and fabric strong enough to knit and weave the highest quality cotton fabrics.
Recent COTTON USA mill studies show how using U.S. cotton leads to processing efficiencies that reduce costs. The research examined U.S. cotton quality, spinning and fabric manufacturing results. CCI conducted nearly 60 mills visits in six countries to present the results of these studies, and will continue to conduct one-on-one meetings with global textile mills to maximize the use of U.S. cotton.
Transparency
COTTON USA has become the cotton the world trusts because of years of transparent partnership. U.S. cotton is fairly traded, and the U.S. cotton industry stands behind its bales. And the United States is the only country in the world that tests 100-percent of all its bales. Not every fourth or fifth. Not even every other. Every single bale. So a customer knows he will receive what was ordered. It’s just one more example of the U.S. cotton industry’s commitment to excellence — and your satisfaction.
The U.S. cotton industry uses the latest computer classing technology to make sure every bale is fairly and correctly classed. And its stringent processes insure uniformity and consistency within classes.
Every bale has its own Permanent Bale Identification (PBI) tag. As each bale goes through the ginning and classing process, this tag goes along with it. So a buyer always knows where, when and how the bale was harvested, ginned and classed.
Premium Value
COTTON USA is committed to creating programs, networking opportunities and educational forums that benefit mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers. It’s all a part of the premium value that COTTON USA brings to the entire supply chain. This dedication to helping build closer relationships between suppliers and buyers benefits the entire industry.
To help facilitate its goals, COTTON USA introduced a new global website located at cottonusa.org. Translated into 12 different languages, the site offers mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers economic data, global supplier search capabilities, and new developments in the areas of cotton sustainability, quality, transparency and innovation. The new COTTON USA website is totally focused on serving business needs, and newly built to connect, educate and inspire the entire cotton supply chain.
COTTON USA also provides sourcing services and networking opportunities. The biennial Sourcing USA Summit brings together U.S. cotton merchants with the world’s premier mills and manufacturers in the industry’s largest event. COTTON USA provides information on the latest innovations in cotton production through ongoing seminars, conferences, executive delegations and U.S. Cotton Belt tours that update textile executives on U.S. cotton industry developments, techniques and processes. Through COTTON USA Buyers’ Tours and Sourcing Fairs, CCI facilitates the sourcing process for the buyers by preselecting manufacturers and providing basic company profile information based on the buyers’ needs.
Furthermore, the COTTON USA Sourcing Program is a successful partnership between CCI and a group of U.S. cotton textile manufacturers designed to develop business relationships along the entire cotton textile and apparel supply chain. CCI has developed relationships with companies throughout Latin America through private trade events, regional trade shows and personal visits.
The COTTON USA™ Mark licensing program continues to add value to customers’ business. The COTTON USA Mark is a sign of softness, strength, comfort and sustainability to consumers around the world. It identifies superior cotton products made with a majority of cotton grown in the United States. In a recent hangtag study, the COTTON USA Mark was proven to add value for consumers. But even more significantly, consumers indicated they would be willing to pay more for a product with the COTTON USA Mark rather than a generic 100-percent cotton logo. CCI recently signed 136 new COTTON USA licensees, for a total of 714 licensed mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers that proudly use the COTTON USA Mark. It’s easy to become a licensee — just ask a local CCI representative.
Innovation
To showcase a continued focus on innovation, COTTON USA launched its new “WHAT’S NEW IN COTTON™” initiative with the objective of inspiring the target audience to think about the many opportunities in U.S. cotton and ultimately to specify more U.S. cotton in their products. At recent international trade shows — including Premiére Vision in Paris and Intertextile in Shanghai, China — CCI, Cotton Incorporated and Supima collaborated to exhibit jointly in one large cotton pavilion and showcase What’s New In Cotton including innovations in technologies, fabric blends, performance, design and fashion.
CCI also launched the innovative COTTON USA Mill Exchange Program in Southeast Asia, which enables textile mills to see firsthand how competitors are successfully using U.S. cotton in their mills to increase profits, as well as learn best practices.
CCI is dedicated to making U.S. cotton the preferred fiber for mills/manufacturers, brands/retailers and consumers, commanding a value-added premium that delivers profitability across the U.S. cotton industry and drives export growth of fiber, yarn and other cotton products. CCI’s demand-building activities are critical in showcasing U.S. cotton’s quality, sustainability, transparency, premium value and innovation — all of which make U.S. cotton “The Cotton The World Trusts.”
ASTM International, Conshohocken, Pa., has announced plans to establish a center of excellence in the area of additive manufacturing/3-D printing. The organization is seeking up to two partners in the venture with full proposals due by December 15.
Brussels-based EDANA – the association serving the nonwovens and related industries, is taking entries for the OUTLOOK™ Asia Innovation Award, which honors innovative products and services designed in, or intended for markets in the Asia Pacific. EDANA also launched a call for papers for its International Nonwovens Symposium to be held May 23-24, 2018, in Rome, Italy.
Belgium-based Beaulieu Yarns reports its France-based production site Ideal Fibres & Comines — that produces a wide variety of yarns for various automotive industry applications — has been awarded Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status. The HPR designation shows that a facility meets the highest industry standards for property protection.
Switzerland-based Archroma reports for the second year in a row, its Pakistan-based affiliate Archroma Pakistan Ltd. has been named “Employer of the Year” in the multinationals segment in the Employers Federation of Pakistan contest. In addition, Mujtaba Rahim, Archroma Pakistan CEO, earned the “Best CEO of the Year” award.
Fibrix LLC, Conover, N.C., reports it will increase the list and off-list prices for its nonwovens products by 5 cents per pound effective December 1, 2017, or as contracts allow. The increase is the first to its customers in more than four year, but was necessary because of higher costs in raw materials and freight, according to the company.
Exton, Pa.-based AGC Chemicals, a subsidiary of Tokyo-based Asahi Glass Co., is celebrating its 100th anniversary.
UltraTech International Inc., Jacksonville, Fla., recently was awarded ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certification for its EverShield superhydrophobic fabric coating, which means any fabric treated with EverShield is safe for use with clothing, blankets and other materials produced for babies and toddlers.
A new New Era Denver Broncos cap features REPREVE® recycled bottle polyester from Unifi Inc.
New Era Cap Co. Inc., Buffalo, N.Y., has debuted the first-ever official National Football League cap manufactured using eco-friendly REPREVE® recycled bottle fiber produced by Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc. The caps are available at the Denver Broncos Team Store at Sports Authority Field at Mile High during Broncos games.
The Netherlands-based Stahl Holdings BV announced it recently received the bluesign® system partner status from Switzerland-based Bluesign Technologies AG.
The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), Cary, N.C., has issued the “North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook, 2016-2021,” a 370-page industry outlook report. The study is available to INDA members for $3,850 and non-members may access the report for $5,500.
Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company launched a website, located at millikenspecialtyinteriors.com, to offer information on its new Specialty Interiors business, which offers textile products and services to the home, office, healthcare, hospitality and special events markets.
Americhem Inc., Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio, has announced a global price increase for all color and additive products effective October 1, 2017. The price increase reflects inflation-based increases in raw materials, energy, freight and packaging costs. Americhem also released its 2018-19 color trends forecast comprised of six color palettes named Motown, Techno, Festival, Bossa Nova, Lullaby and Concerto.
England-based MagnaColours® has translated its MagnaAcademy video tutorial training program into Spanish, and will also issue Russian and Turkish versions of the videos in order to help screen printers develop their skills and learn how to best use the Magna product range.
Cincinnati-based Standard Textile Co. Inc. reports its VESTEX® Active Barrier apparel was awarded a 2017 Innovative Technology designation from Vizient Inc., a member-driven healthcare performance improvement company.
Greenville, S.C.-based Kentwool Inc.’s CEO Mark Kent recently passed away at the age of 55. He was the fifth generation Kent to run the family-owned state-of-the-art wool-based spinning business. In addition to wool yarns, Kentwool is known for the “World’s Best Golf Sock,” a product Kent conceived of and developed after suffering badly blistered feet during a three-day charity golf pro-am. Kent’s obituary notes that: “his business family remembers best his kindness, his generosity, his infectious smile, and his exceptional character. Mark lived a life celebrated for his commitment to his customers and his employees, as well as the countless people he served quietly as a philanthropist and public servant.”
“He was an expert in his field who cared deeply for his workers and the communities that relied on Kentwool to provide employment and investment,” said Auggie Tantillo, president and CEO, National Council of Textile Organizations. “From a national policy standpoint, Mark’s insight and direction on issues impacting the U.S. wool textile sector will be especially missed.”
Ambroza
Dearborn, Mich.-based Carhartt promoted its senior vice president of marketing Tony Ambroza to the newly created senior leadership position of chief brand officer.
Pittsburgh-based Dick’s Sporting Goods has named Paul Gaffney chief technology officer.
Feltrup-Exum
Jordan Feltrup-Exum has joined High Point, N.C-based Morbern as director of sales for the United States.
Brückner Trockentechnik managing associate Regina Brückner was elected chairperson for the Germany-based VDMA Textile Machinery Association at its member meeting held recently in Berlin. The association also elected Verena Thies, Thies Textilmaschinen, and Fritz P. Mayer, Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik, vice chairs.
Berlin
Finland-based Spinnova Ltd. has named Emmi Berlin head of communications.
Downlite, Mason, Ohio, has hired Clive Wilkie as vice president, Quality Assurance & Compliance.
Larson
Dana Claire Larson has joined Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company as director of design and development for its new Specialty Interiors business.
Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc. has elected Kevin D. Hall chairman of the Board of Directors; and Archibald Cox, Jr., lead independent director. Hall will also continue in his role as CEO.
Drew Watson has joined Supreme Corp., Hickory, N.C., as southeast market manager for the Tuff-N-Lite® brand of safety gear and personal protective equipment.
Hoather
England-based Global Inkjet Systems has named Martin Hoather COO.
Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated has named Dr. Jesse Daystar vice president and chief sustainability officer.
Keegan
Tim Keegan has joined American Textile Co., Duquesne, Pa., as senior vice president, Hospitality Sales.
Hologenix LLC, Santa Monica, Calif., has elected Bill Werlin chairman of the board. In addition, Jim Calhoun was appointed to the board of directors.
Germany-based Reifenhäuser Holding has appointed Dr. Bernd Kunze and Karsten Kratz to the management board. Kunze is the chief technology officer and Kratz is CFO responsible for the IT and Compliance divisions.
du Chesney
Paris-based Lectra has promoted Olivier du Chesnay to CFO.
INX International Ink Co., Schaumburg, Ill., has promoted Jim Lambert to vice president of digital sales — Ink and Hardware.
Kevin R. Williams is the new president and CEO of Winston-Salem, N.C.-based EPIC Brand Management Group.
Italy-based Itema Group recently celebrated the opening of Itema Campus, a state-of-the-art training center in Pakistan. The company hosted an opening ceremony for more than 100 guests in cooperation with Noon International, its exclusive sales and after-sales agent in Pakistan. Chief guests at the event included Aamir Fayyaz Sheikh, chairman, All-Pakistan Textile Mills Association, and CEO, Kohinoor Mills; and Stefano Pontecorvo, Italian Ambassador to Pakistan. Itema Group Sales & Marketing Director Christian Straubhaar and Head of Sales responsible for Pakistan Franco Brambilla were present at the opening along with sales agents from Itema and Noon International, and employees from textile companies in Pakistan.
“The concept of the Campus is to bring Itema to Pakistan because we believe that a physical presence in a country is essential in order to create a dynamic and positive environment for business,” said Straubhaar.
Germany-based Dilo reports it has received an order from Rome, Ga.-based Foss Floors for a complete Dilo needlepunch line that is suitable for producing floorcovering felts. The line includes a DiloTemafa opening and blending line, 3-meter-wide DiloSpinnbau MC 3-5 carding machine, a DLBS 30/50 DiloMachines crosslapper with CV1 system, two DI-LOOM series needlelooms as well as the DILO-PCS integrated process control system.
Boiling Springs, S.C.-based Technology Transfer Services Inc. (TTS) recently signed an exclusive agreement with Italy-based Cormatex S.r.l. to represent its textile machinery in the United States and Canada. Cormatex offers carding and spinning technologies for woolen yarns, complete nonwoven production lines and pilot line equipment.
“The opportunity to promote high production cards, crosslappers and innovative airlay systems from Cormatex brings new avenues of technology to our customers by providing cutting-edge machinery solutions and superior after sales support in North America from TTS,” said Jimmy King, vice president, TTS.”
Introduced first into the intimates market, Eastman Naia™ offers an inherent silky hand, luster and soft drape as well as comfort and easy-care performance benefits.
Eastman Naia™ offers inherent performance benefits demanded in today’s apparel and textile marketplace, as well as new design possibilities.
By Janet Bealer Rodie, Contributing Editor
At Kingsport, Tenn.-based Eastman Chemical Company, technological developments in cellulose acetate production are giving the fiber a new chance to shine. Branded Naia™, the new and improved cellulosic fiber offers several advantages over the original fiber including machine washability, improved dimensional stability, stain release and wrinkle recovery. It also has a silky hand, natural luster and soft drape; wicks moisture; dries quickly; is breathable; does not pill; and is hypoallergenic. All of these characteristics are inherent to the fiber. In addition, it is thermoplastic and can be heat-treated to provide various effects.
Tennessee Eastman — founded in 1920 to provide parent company Eastman Kodak with domestically produced acetone, methanol and other chemicals to use in its photographic processes — began producing cellulose acetate yarn in 1928, and the yarn was the company’s leading product by 1940. A solution-dyed version was introduced in 1952, but the fiber’s use for textile applications was soon eclipsed by its use for filter tow, which became Eastman’s major product by 1960. The company also added other man-made fiber production and became more involved in industrial chemicals and plastics production.
Tennessee Eastman spun off from Eastman Kodak in 1994 and became Eastman Chemical. It is today a global company with four business segments — Additives & Functional Products; Advanced Materials; Chemical Intermediates; and Fibers — and sales and/or manufacturing sites on six continents.
Naia is derived from pine or eucalyptus pulp sourced from sustainably managed forests mostly in the Americas. The fiber is produced in Kingsport in a nearly closed-loop process in which all solvents and waste are recycled, reused or offered for resale. The fiber has earned USDA Certified Biobased Product and Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certifications.
According to Jeroen Jacobs, Eastman’s sales director textile fibers, performance issues that previously had plagued acetate yarn have been addressed in Naia. For example, articles produced with acetate yarn had to be dry cleaned, as the fiber lost its dimensional stability when wet. It also exhibited poor abrasion resistance.
“In the last two or more years we’ve done a lot of work on the manufacturing technology side as well as with our mill partners to improve processes and dyeing procedures,” Jacobs said. “We arrived at a product that you can make a garment out of which you can actually throw into a washing machine and not have to worry about colorfastness or dimensional stability. We’ve also found out that with Naia, you get very good soil release,” he added, noting the fiber’s top ratings in soil release tests involving makeup, coffee, red wine, cooking oil and dirt.
Naia’s thermoplastic property clearly differentiates it from other cellulosic fibers. “You could treat a Naia fabric to give it a leather-like look. It has a different type of polymer backbone than other cellulosic materials,” Jacobs explained. Other possibilities might be to press permanent pleats into the fabric, or to mold it into various shapes. “That’s something we’re kind of exploring right now. There’s clearly an opportunity there because of the thermoplastic function of the material,” Jacobs said.
Eastman introduced Naia first into the intimates market, but other potential markets include women’s ready-to-wear, home textiles, accessories and technical textiles. Jacobs mentioned some products have been introduced at retail, including a yoga line from fast-fashion brand Zara, and a boutique line of women’s sports/lounge wear from New York City-based Only Hearts.
He added that Eastman is building up its mill network and working with several brands to bring new lines to market in Spring/Summer 2018 and Autumn/Winter 2018-19.
For more information about Eastman Naia™, contact naiateam@ eastman.com; naia.eastman.com.
LEONBERG, Germany — November 27, 2017 — The Tropic Knits Group located in Mauritius is with 3,000 employees one of the biggest producers of high-quality fine knit garments in the Indian Ocean. Well-known international brands from Europe, the United States and South Africa are among the company’s most important customers since many years.
The textile industry has changed very much particularly in the past years, not least caused by a changed consumer behavior: increased online shopping, shorter production lead-times, fast fashion cycles and quick turnaround for new collections coupled with high quality customer demands at the right price. And, in addition to that, the focus has been on sustainable production meaning compliance to environmental standards and social compliance. These are the great challenges for Tropic Knits, the garment division of the Group. The company achieves this among other things thanks to their excellent target-oriented, customer focused and flexible team. CDL Knits, a fully integrated knitting, dyeing and finishing plant is the Fabric Mill division of the Tropic Knits Group. There, they have the ability to control the complete production chain which allows rapid optimization of processes to improve fabric quality as per customer demand.
At Forest Side in Mauritius, CDL Knits is producing every day approximately 17 tons of knitted fabric out of which 80% is assigned for Tropic Knits which converts them into garments. The rest is exported to South Africa in open-width fabric form.
Since quite a long time the operations and finishing team of CDL Knits has been looking for leaner production processes that would lead to further savings in terms of resources and energy for the company. During ITMA 2015 in Milan the first ideas were discussed with different textile machine manufacturers and very soon their thoughts became a mature and solid concept. CDL Knits manufactures a variety of cotton fabric, cotton blends and viscose. The finishing line they operated at that time comprised a relaxation dryer, a stenter and a compactor. The intention was to replace these three finishing machines by only one line without compromises regarding quality. In the beginning this seemed to be rather unrealistic on a technical point of view.
The German textile machinery producer BRÜCKNER TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIES kept their ears open to the concept. An intense exchange of insights began, new ideas were discussed and several fabric trials were performed in the Brückner Technology Centre in Leonberg/Germany. Together, a completely new machine concept has been developed which CDL bought for their production site in Mauritius. Most important was the mutual trust which has developed during the phase of conceptual design between Brückner and CDL Knits. The excellent assistance by the complete Brückner team, the technological advice and the positive results of the trials in Leonberg were in the end convincing and crucial for the purchase decision.
The new Brückner line for knitted fabric which will in future replace CDL’s three finishing machines is a special design: a relaxation dryer with pre-arranged stentering zone. Scroll rollers in the entry of the line provide for the spreading of the fabric and skew straightening rollers for the reduction of spirality. After that the fabric is pinned on precisely directly behind a special selvedge spreading unit, so that the selvedge waste is later reduced to a minimum. A non-lub vertical transport chain, developed particularly for knitted fabric, transports the fabric through a ten-meter-long stentering zone. It is provided with a selvedge gumming unit, comprising several IR dryers and further hot air dryers for a complete drying of the gummed selvedges. Depending on the process and the fabric quality it is possible to operate with up to 60 percent overfeed and a wet overstretching of 40 percent and more.
At the end of the tentering zone a selvedge cutting device is installed. With minimum tension the fabric is then fed on to a specially coated transport belt leading into the four-zone relaxation dryer. The fabric is dried with an optimized air control concept and it is relaxed due to the tumble-like movement so that the residual shrinkage is reduced to a minimum. The individually adjustable air flow in the dryer and the wet spreading and shrinkage in the tentering zone allows to influence the quality features such as shrinkage, fabric width and fabric surface to the optimum. The curling of edges in the dryer is prevented by a systematic and selective arrangement of the circulating air. This new technology allows to save previously required expensive process steps.
Brückner’s Technical Director for Mechanical Design, who is an expert for the finishing of knitted fabric at the same time, wanted to assure himself that the recently developed concept is performing perfectly. He visited CDL Knits in Mauritius directly after commissioning of the new line. Together with the customer he made tests with different fabrics and determined the optimum process parameters for each fabric quality. The operators were directly involved and correspondingly trained.
After a short time CDL could start the production and the results speak for themselves. The fabric quality is better than expected and the residual shrinkage as well as the spirality are for all fabric types less than 5 percent. CDL is already now saving about 40 percent of electrical and thermal energy compared to their previous process. But the biggest saving is definitely the significant reduced process time. Where previously 90 hours were required, is today 20 hours to achieve the same productivity. This gives enormous benefits regarding the delivery time.
But there are some more aspects which made CDL Knits invest in a Brückner line. The state-of-the-art lines of the German machinery producer are very robust and durable. Spare parts and support are available for all machines, even if they are 20 or 30 years old. In addition the machines are produced 100 percent in Brückner’s own plant in Tittmoning, Bavaria, in Germany and they are always tailor-made to the customer’s needs. Furthermore Brückner attaches particular importance on an energy-efficient technology to save costs for their customers when operating the lines and to reduce simultaneously the consumption of resources.
The Tropic Knits Group is part of the Fine Knits cluster of Ciel Textiles which is also located in Mauritius. The complete Group has more than 20,000 employees with an annual turnover of about $300 million. Once a year, Ciel Textiles hosts the Ciel Textile Chairman’s Manufacturing Excellence Award for its capital intensive companies. This is a good occasion to bring together the employees of the individual business units and to emphasize the team spirit and the solidarity of the whole team. Because only together it is possible to master challenges. The Knitting Division of CDL Knits won the award for Manufacturing Excellence twice in 2015 and 2016. This year, in September 2017, CDL won the World Class Innovation & Creativity Award. The installation of the new Brückner line at CDL Knits and the corresponding benefits for the company played a small but nevertheless important role in winning the award.
The group and each individual business unit attach great importance on sustainability. This includes the saving of resources (water, oil, electricity, etc.), but also social responsibility with a vision for the future. CDL Knits came up with the initiative “Stairway to Hope”. The objective is to help underprivileged people in the community. Selvedge waste from production is provided to socially disadvantaged persons who knit these into rug mats which they sell and earn a living. The required equipment (for example wooden frames or needles) is made available by CDL Knits who also supports the people in the sales of their products. The project is also known as “WASTE to GOLD”. Since last year, CDL Knits is engaged on a yearly basis on a D-Day, also known as Love Day, with a community close to its production facility. This is an opportunity where all the employees of the company would gel with the people living in the community and organise different activities such as free medical check-ups, planting of trees, cleaning of the environment, awareness on drugs and diseases and also distribute food and school materials to the needy. In September 2017, CDL Knits was also awarded the CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) Award among the capital intensive units of Ciel Textiles.
Verena Ruckh, head of marketing at Brückner, is really inspired. “A great commitment with many exciting social projects. During my stay at CDL and Tropic Knits in Mauritius I met so many highly motivated people from various cultures who always welcomed me with a smile. When I walked through the company I could feel the spirit of willing to move something forward together as a team. This is something very special and it impressed me deeply. Keep it up!”
The Group now benefits from a state-of-the-art and durable Brückner line for knitted fabric which clearly saves thermal and electrical energy and streamlines their internal processes. Improved fabric quality and shorter lead-times are other benefits derived from the new finishing line. This allows Tropic Knits to offer in future the highest possible quality and to position itself as a very good alternative to suppliers from China and the Far East.
FRANKFURT, Germany/CHARLOTTE, N.C./MEXICO CITY — November 27, 2017 — The VDMA Textile Machinery Association has accomplished successful events for the textile industries in the US and Mexico. More than 80 decision-makers of the U.S. textile, nonwoven and carpet industry as well as 25 leading textile machinery and accessories manufacturers participated in the VDMA textile machinery conference on November 6 in Charlotte, N.C. The following two-day event November 8-9 in Mexico City attracted nearly 450 customers and 30 textile machinery and accessories manufacturers, making it one of the most successful events of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association ever.
“In the light of the high number of participants and the intensity of the discussions regarding concrete investment intentions, the VDMA events have been a big success for our company”, explained Hermann Selker, Head of Marketing, Trützschler.
The conference in Mexico City was addressed by José Cohen Sitton, president of the National Chamber of the Textile Industry CANAINTEX: “German textile machinery and engineering are one of the best in the world”, he stated. Sitton added that the Mexican textile industry has to invest in order to be on top of technology no matter what the outcome of the ongoing NAFTA negotiations will be.
Whereas these two events focused on customers, the training session at the Instituto Politécnico Nacional (Escuela Superior de Ingeniería Textil) in Mexico City on November 10 aimed at future engineers. About 500 textile engineering students followed the technical presentations from 18 textile machinery and components manufacturers. The company delegates also visited the machinery department of the faculty. The VDMA’s contribution to improve the education of future customers was very much appreciated.
Commenting on the training session, Arturo Arauzo, Director of the Escuela Superior de Ingeniería Textil, said: “The visit and the technology presentations of the well-known German machinery companies were very well received by our students and by the staff. We see this visit as the beginning of a partnership between our institute and the German textile machinery industry.”
In the United States and Mexico, the VDMA member companies presented their latest production technologies from spinning to dyeing and finishing. Major topics addressed were digitalization of the textile and textile machinery industry (Industrie 4.0 / industrial internet), higher efficiency and profitability, energy, water and material savings, new applications with growth potential, such as composites and nonwovens, higher quality with measurement, control and testing devices, technical training centres.
Information on the two events, speakers and content is available on the websites: www.germantech-ustextile.de and www.germantech-mextextile.de.
In 2018, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association will be supporting sales and marketing of the member companies through trade fairs (German pavilions), own technical conferences & B2B as well as official trade missions in the following countries: Indonesia, India, United States, Belarus, Brazil, Uzbekistan, Iran, China, Egypt.
Participating VDMA member companies in the United States:
Monforts Textilmaschinen, ANDRITZ Kuesters, Autefa Solutions, Brueckner Textile Technologies, DILO Systems + TEMAFA, Lindauer DORNIER, Erhardt+Leimer, Groz-Beckert, Interspare, Körting Hannover, Mahlo, Karl Mayer, Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, PLEVA, Reseda Binder, Georg Sahm, Saurer Components (Saurer Temco), Sedo Treepoint, Textechno Herbert Stein, Thies, Truetzschler, Welker Vakuum, Oerlikon Textile (Barmag and Neumag).
Participating VDMA member companies in Mexico:
Monforts Textilmaschinen, Allma Volkmann Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany, ANDRITZ Asselin-Thibeau, Autefa Solutions, Brueckner Textile Technologies, DILO Systems + Temafa, Erhardt+Leimer, Groz-Beckert, Georg Sahm, Interspare, Jakob Mueller, Körting Hannover, Mahlo, Mayer & Cie., Karl Mayer, Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, Oerlikon Textile (Barmag + Neumag), PLEVA, Reseda Binder, Saurer Components GmbH Branch Hammelburg, Schlafhorst branch of Saurer Germany, Sedo Treepoint, SETEX Schermuly textile computer, Textechno Herbert Stein, Thies, Truetzschler, Welker Vakuum, Xetma Vollenweider.
