INDA, EDANA Joining Forces For Enhanced, Coordinated Strategy In Global Nonwovens

Murat Dogru
Tony Fragnito

Textile World recently spoke to INDA’s Tony Fragnito and EDANA’s Murat Dogru about the Global Nonwoven Alliance (GNA).

TW Special Report

Last year, Cary, N.C.-based INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced a collaboration with Brussels-based EDANA, the Voice of Nonwovens. The two organizations signed a letter of intent committing to explore a strategic alliance to leverage their combined resources and expertise.

As discussions progressed, INDA and EDANA recognized the need for a new group, the Global Nonwoven Alliance (GNA), which is intended “to provide international leadership for the representation and responsible advancement of the global nonwovens industry while respecting and benefiting its members.” INDA and EDANA, the founding members of GNA, will continue to operate as independent legal entities while also aligning resources and expanding collaboration to offer a coordinated strategy toward the opportunities and issues faced by the global nonwovens industry. The hope is that GNA will enhance programs, service, reach and efficiency.

As INDA and EDANA continue their discussions to hash out organizational details and develop a timeframe for GNA, TW had the opportunity to chat with INDA President and CEO Tony Fragnito and EDANA General Manager Murat Dogru.

TW: For those unfamiliar with INDA and EDANA, can you please provide a little background about the organizations.

Fragnito: INDA was formed in 1968 primarily to support roll goods manufacturers and a more limited group in the supply chain. Since that time, we’ve evolved and as nonwovens have become more common and are found in everyday products as well as more durable products, our scope and focus has expanded to include those segments of the market. We cover the supply chain now and are evolving to cover more of the innovation in the industry.

Obviously, I think it’s an important aspect of an association to recognize the contributors to the industry and we have various awards programs tied to the individuals as well as innovative products.

We also deal with evolving issues that the industry is grappling with whether that be regulatory issues, innovations and materials science, or trade issues. In addition, we are trying to look ahead and anticipate the issues that the industry will be involved with.

(left to right): Tony Fragnito, president and CEO, INDA; Mikael Staal Axelson, CEO, Fibertex Personal Care and EDANA board chair; Mark Thornton, vice president, The Procter & Gamble Co. and INDA board chair; and Murat Dogru, general manager, EDANA.

Dogru: It’s more or less the same thing for EDANA. We have existed for a little bit more than 50 years. Today we represent more than 260 members. All of our different activities are defined by three main pillars — create environment beneficial for innovation and growth, foster product stewardship, and advocate for free and fair trade. We are an international association like INDA.

We have members from all across the world, but our main focus remains in extended Europe. But we also have members based in Asia, the United States, and many members that are international companies.

Our field of expertise is really focused around eight fields — public affairs, regulatory affairs, activities around sustainability, business intelligence, trade, scientific affairs, also being a long learning partner for experts in the industry so learning and development, and everything that touches marketing and communication I would say.

EDANA represents the entire nonwoven supply chain from the raw material suppliers to the converters. When we say something and when we advocate for the industry, we have the full power behind us, the full positioning of the industry to be able to make a statement. It’s not easy, but that makes the strength of an association like EDANA or INDA because it’s the same methodology.

TW: How does INDA differ from EDANA, and how do the two organizations complement one another?

Dogru: Many, many common services is what Tony and I have been able to notice since we started talking. We have been really open about what we are, the challenges or services and we have been able to compare and quickly see that many things are mirroring themselves in Europe and in the United States. Events, training, technical affairs and market data for the industry for example. And if we are talking about say a trade show — we have IDEA and INDEX — we are learning from all the experiences that the participants and exhibitors have. At the end, our purpose and objective is to give them the best experience ever at each IDEA and each INDEX show.

But at the same time, there is also some uniqueness in Europe and the United States. The level of scrutiny that we have in the U.S. or in Europe is some-times different. I’m thinking of advocacy, for example. And there is a uniqueness to each region. There are also some global challenges that we are working on hand in hand.

Fragnito: I think that’s true. The parallels of the topics that are important for our members are very much aligned. I would say the external pressures are a bit different. Europe is more active and advanced in their regulatory pressures around environmental issues where the United States is not quite as aggressive there.

There is a difference in services in one area, INDA does have two magazines that we publish — a fiber journal and a filtration journal — and Murat and I both see those as a strategic advantage to leverage on a global scale, so while it may be slightly different, it’s something that we both see as an opportunity to collaborate on and help grow, and maybe expand into other areas.

(left to right): Murat Dogru, Mikael Staal Axelsen, Mark Thornton and Tony Fragnito in Rome signing the EDANA/INDA Letter of Intent to explore a strategic alliance.

TW: How will you counteract a perceived “diluted effect” of smaller members?

Fragnito: Many of our members are regional and operate only within the U.S. or in Europe let’s say, but a large percentage have operations in multiple parts of the world. When we’re at the table as a trade association, everyone really has an equal voice, so our large, multinational members sit shoulder to shoulder with smaller, regional players. The perception a lot of time is that the big players really call all the shots, but the reality is it’s really equal at the table. If a company is interested in the issue, they are able to understand that things that are not happening in their back yard have the potential to influence how their business operates and they understand these are valuable perspectives to understand. When it comes to regional members, there was some concern voiced about will we lose? will we dilute? and I think the reality is those members will actually see added value from this new formation. I think they will really have the opportunity to get their finger on these trends that could be impacting them a few years down the road.

TW: As an INDA member or an EDANA member, how will this change my longstanding relationship with my organization?

Fragnito: We actually think our members will see a higher value from engaging in both organizations. Obviously, we can say that, but we have to prove it. I’m sure that we will. Our members have been I think very supportive of the idea. There is an ancient proverb “success has many fathers.” We’ve heard a lot of members saying “I said this should have happened years ago.”

Dogru: We can for example mention that there will be more extensive collaboration opportunities on global research projects, alignment on sustainability and circular economy initiatives, greater visibility for research through global communication and events. Will it be beneficial for everyone? Potentially not. But at least I would say there is a set of 30 to 40 things of added value that we can extract from this collaboration. And the aim is to make sure that each member will be able to see what is the most important for them and to take the specific value there. We are still independent as associations so internally, there is INDA and EDANA and members of the organizations, and the power is in the hands of the board of each organization.

TW: How is the alliance organized?

Dogru: We do foresee this as a federation so where the initial members would be for sure INDA and EDANA. But it’s the creation of an organization where we are the initial members and this federation will not just be limited to INDA and EDANA, but be open to other trade associations across the globe. Again, there is added value of the more we are, the better it is.

Fragnito: The way that we see the organization being governed is that INDA will appoint six members to serve on the GNA board and EDANA will appoint six members as well. The focus of this GNA board will be to look at establishing the principles for the industry that then INDA and EDANA will use to help guide how we respond to issues on the ground so that we have more consistency.

I think both of our organizations believe that any global organization needs to be able to have fair and equal trading. It’s a global industry and people should be able to move products and services with minimal barriers. So it’s easy to make a statement like that, but when you start actually applying that to a situation on the ground or a particular perspective of a country, it gets a little bit more challenging. Establishing those high-level principals that we can then refer to as we deal with the issues on the ground, is helpful. Establishing different rules in different regions is not beneficial for any of the industry. It’s a lot easier to do that in the framework of GNA, and we’ve identified projects already that logically make sense to be under the GNA umbrella.

Dogru: To make it as simple as possible, the power is remaining in the hands of the members. The members are still electing people on the board of INDA and EDANA. Those elected people are of course setting the strategy of each association. In order to also be part of GNA, within that group they will be electing a certain number of people. So those people will have like an extended mandate in order to be able to discuss the topics that will be brought at the GNA level. There will be subjects that will remain at the INDA and EDANA level. As we have said, there are specific regional issues and there are topics and services that will be discussed at the GNA level.

The INDA Board of Directors and EDANA Board of Directors gathered recently to continue progress in the collaboration between the two organizations and recommended incorporating the Global Nonwovens Alliance.

TW: What are the goals of the alliance, and where do you think GNA will have the biggest impact?

Dogru: One thing I would like to say is we see GNA as something where the sky is the limit. It’s an open door for any other association to join us.You know, nonwovens is many different product applications. What we have seen is sometimes there are some other associations that exist that can bring a certain category of needs for some of our members. Maybe GNA can be this big federation and we can welcome with open arms all these other associations so that collaborate and convene. This is a dream when we look at the long-term vision. I really think we have just put in place the first steps of what could be achieved. It has to be done correctly so that we are strong together.

TW: What is the timeline for aligning the organizations and launching GNA?

Dogru: Sooner is the best for sure. We are already well advancing and everything is happening. We want to be fair with you, as we have some timelines in mind, and I’d prefer not to make an official statement at this point. At the same time, the only thing that is important for us is that we do proper due diligence exercises and make sure that everything has been covered.

Fragnito: I think Murat alluded to this earlier, but we exist for our members and it’s been very important for us to keep our members moving with us. We don’t want to put any artificial timelines on this. We really want the members to feel comfortable with why we are doing this and how we are doing it and the implications of what we are doing. The more important thing is to have them fully on board and have them under-standing the realities.

TW: Should there be reason to disengage from the alliance, is there a process in place?

Fragnito: I think we have to accommodate all possibilities. We’ve had some conversations about six and six, for example — how do you break a tie? We will have to deal with those sorts of issues, but I think the reality of those being challenges for us are small. I think the odds of those sorts of things happening are small. I think if we have issues that our GNA board is really split on, I don’t think it will be a regional split with the U.S. voting this way and Europe voting the other way down some regional line. I think it would be for completely different reasons with a disagreement or concern about a particular approach.

We’ve accommodated things like ties, and what if one association is not finding the value in this, is there a way to disengage from the federation, and we’ve accommodated those things, but we do think the likelihood is minimal that those things will occur.

Dogru: Yes, all of those options have been discussed and put in place. I think while we have been considering all of the options, we have also considered what is the worst-case scenario if this thing doesn’t work. I don’t believe this is what will happen, but we still need to be able to discuss it. And INDA and EDANA will be remaining, so if we have a challenge and a collapse — although for what reason I do not know, although who knows … maybe it will happen! — but INDA and EDANA will continue to exist and will still bring the value that they do today and even more in the future.

TW: Any message would you like to share with the stakeholders in the global nonwovens industry about this alliance?

Dogru: I do think that the joining and strengthening of forces can only be helpful and supportive for the industry. By joining forces, we are strengthening the strength. It’s not just the supply chain, and it’s not just EDANA. It’s EDANA and INDA and whatever other association is going to join us later on. But with this opportunity, we are enlarging the potential group of this discussion, this group of collaboration, this group of what can happen. I do have the feeling that we are doing something rather unique here between the two associations and I am really excited by it.

Fragnito: The thing that I come back to is that it’s one thing to pay your dues and support the organization. But to really get the value out of the organization you need to be involved.The biggest thing for our members, big or small, is to commit individuals and give them the time to engage in the activities of INDA, EDANA and GNA because that’s how they really influence the issues that we are grappling with and how we accomplish what we do with the limited staff. The issues that we take on for the industry are the ones that people bring to us. That’s how we really guide our resource allocation — by those members that are active and engaged. My message to members all the time is don’t write your check and wait for things to come to you.You really need to engage, you need to visible and you need to be seen in the organization to influence our agenda.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

INDA’s IDEA® & FiltXPO™ Foster “Get Stuff Done” Meetings, Business Development

The recent collocated IDEA® and FiltXPO gathered the best and the brightest in the nonwovens and filtration industries in Miami Beach.

TW Special Report

The Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) recently closed the doors on the 2025 editions of the IDEA® and FiltXPO™ trade shows that were held concurrently in Miami Beach at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

Featuring a show floor with more than 650 exhibitors, conference sessions, training options and awards ceremonies, the event highlighted the best of the nonwovens and filtration industries.

“The energy and engagement at IDEA and FiltXPO were outstanding,” said INDA President and CEO Tony Fragnito. “Seeing thousands of global leaders and innovators converge in Miami Beach underscores the vital importance of face-to-face interactions not just for project updates and busi-ness development but also for dis-cussing industry challenges and opportunities. The quality of the atten-dees and the volume of business con-ducted are a powerful testament to the industry’s interconnected supply chains and vibrant global industry outlook.”

Networking, Learning

On the show floor, Lightning Talk presentations helped drive traffic to the booths. FiltXPO also hosted a poster session to showcase the latest research and technologies from 23 companies.

An evening reception at the end of the first day provided a chance to network and meet old friends as well as new people in the industry.

The two-day IDEA Sustainability in Nonwovens Conference brought global experts together to share perspectives on issues such as regulation, technology and product design. The FiltXPO Advances in Filtration Conference, produced in conjunction with the American Filtration and Separation Society, covered topics including circularity, indoor air quality, filtration media innovations and healthy buildings.

In addition, both shows hosted training options. IDEA offered its introduction to nonwovens and wet wipes course, as well as courses on baby and adult absorbent hygiene systems, and innovations in period products. A two-day Filter Media Training Course also was hosted on site for participants wanting to learn more about the world of filtration.

Over the three-day event, INDA also presented its IDEA Achievement Awards, FiltXPO Innovation, and IDEA Lifetime Achievement Award and INDA Lifetime Service Award (See sidebars).

“IDEA25 and FiltXPO 2025 truly exceeded expectations — not just in scale, but in substance,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education & Technical Affairs. “The quality of discussions, the depth of innovation on display, and the spirit of collaboration was readily apparent. My favorite feed-back from an exhibitor, that was echoed by many, was that their week was packed with ‘get stuff done meetings.’ Expos like these, in conjunction with the in-depth technical conferences on filtration and sustainability in nonwovens, are an essential element of our industry.”

New Location For Next Edition Of IDEA

In a major move for IDEA —which has called Miami Beach home since 2001 save one edition — INDA announced that the next edition will be held in Kansas City, Mo. March 23-25, 2027. This date also marks a departure from its usual triennial timing to a new biennial schedule. The next FiltXPO will take place in Minneapolis, Minn., October 28-29, 2026.

Johann Phillipp Dilo, Dilo Group CEO

IDEA®2025 Achievement Award Winners

In collaboration with Nonwovens Industry and International Filtration News magazines, awards were presented during IDEA and FiltXPO to outstanding innovations in nonwovens and filtration.

“The recipients of the IDEA and FiltXPO Awards exemplify the ingenuity and forward-thinking that drive our industries forward,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education & Technical Affairs. “Their groundbreaking products are not only shaping the future of nonwovens and filtration — they are redefining what’s possible. These innovations remind us that progress is built on vision, persistence, and a commitment to solving the challenges of tomorrow.”

Recipients of the 2025 IDEA Achievement Awards:

  • IDEA Equipment Achievement Award — Germany-based Dilo Systems GmbH for its MicroPunch technology
  • IDEA Nonwoven Products Achievement Award — Germany-based Innovatec Microfibre Technology GmbH & Co. KG for its InnovaWipe® Water-Soluble Nonwoven
  • IDEA Raw Materials Achievement Award — New Zealand-based Woolchemy NZ Ltd. for neweFibre
  • IDEA Short-life Achievement Award — Somerville, Mass.-based Egal Pads Inc. for its Egal™ Pads on a Roll
  • IDEA Long-life Achievement Award — Charlotte, N.C.-based Magnera Corp. for the Sontara® EcoRE Bag
  • IDEA Sustainability Advancement Award — South Africa-based KINDCLOTH™ for the PURA HEALTH insect repellent water dissolvable wipes
  • IDEA® Entrepreneur Award — Chicago-based Dude Products Inc.

The 2025 FiltXPO Innovation Award winners were:

  • FiltXPO Air/Gas Filtration Award — Johnson City, Tenn.-based Greentech Environmental LLC for Greentech Filters with ODOGard®
  • FiltXPO Water/Liquid Filtration Award — Finland-based Ahlstrom for BioProtect™ material
  • FiltXPO Filtration Equipment Award — Miami-based Filtration Advice Inc. for its FA-TCO software

 

Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, Lynda Kelly Receive Lifetime Awards

INDA presented its IDEA Lifetime Achievement Award to Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi and the INDA Lifetime Service Award to Lynda Kelly during an award ceremony in Miami Beach.
Dr. Pourdeyhimi is the executive director of The Nonwovens Institute at NC State in Raleigh, N.C. After earning a Ph.D. from the University of Leeds in England, he began his career in academia holding posts at NC State, Cornell University, The University of Maryland and the Georgia Institute of Technology. His storied career includes more than 600 research publications and three books, and more than 250 conference presentations.

Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi

Dr. Pourdeyhimi also holds 30 U.S. and 65 international patents. Long a proponent of nonwovens, his return to NC State was driven by the opportunity to join The Nonwovens Cooperative Research Center, which under his leadership eventually evolved into The Nonwovens Institute, an open-innovation model facility that leads research initiatives for nonwovens. Dr. Pourdeyhimi also serves at the William A. Klopman Distinguished Professor of Materials, associate dean in the Wilson College of Textiles and is an affiliated professor in the department of Biomedical Engineering at NC State.

“I am deeply honored and humbled to receive this award,”  Dr. Pourdeyhimi noted. “My journey has always been about pushing the boundaries of knowledge, innovation, and collaboration in nonwovens. I’m grateful for the extraordinary colleagues, students, and industry partners who’ve shared this path and whose contributions have been essential to my achievements that are being recognized today.”

Lynda Kelly

Retired since 2023, Kelly was most recently senior vice president, Americas & Business Development at Suominen Corp. She spent almost a decade with the company leading its Care team before overseeing the Americas sales division. Prior to Suominen, Kelly worked for Kendall/International Paper/BBA Nonwovens and First Quality Nonwovens.

Throughout her career, Kelly supported INDA initiatives and made lasting contributions to the nonwovens industry serving on the Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation (AAMI) medical disposable standards committee, and INDA’s Board of Directors.

“I am truly humbled and honored to receive the INDA Lifetime Service Award,” Kelly said. “Growing up in this amazing industry has been a remarkable journey, working alongside so many incredible colleagues across the globe to develop and sell unique nonwoven product solutions and technologies. As an industry, we have achieved so much over the decades, and I am proud to have been part of its evolution. It has truly been an incredible experience!”

“Behnam and Lynda exemplify the best of our industry — visionary, committed, and generous with their talents,” said Tony Fragnito, INDA president & CEO. “It’s a privilege to recognize their continuing impact and celebrate their contributions with the community they helped shape.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

Wipe To Win: WOW Represents Wipes Ecosystem

INDA’s 18th World of Wipes® International Conference will take place in Columbus, Ohio.

TW Special Report

The 18th World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference will take place July 21-24, 2025, at the Hilton Columbus Downtown in Columbus, Ohio.

Organized by the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), the annual event focuses on, you guessed it, wipes! From raw materials to manufacturing technologies and beyond, the entire wipes supply chain is represented at WOW. This year’s theme is “Wipe to Win: Innovating for a Sustainable and Profitable Future.”

According to INDA, areas of interest covered at WOW include: dry and wet wipes; circular economy initiatives; sustainability and end-of-life implications; substrate formation; skincare formulations; raw materials and ingredients; end-use markets; packaging innovations; machinery and equipment advances; market trends and consumer insights; regulatory updates; and e-commerce and retail channels.

“I had never been to the World of Wipes prior to joining INDA and it has really impressed me in how comprehensive it is,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education & Technical Affairs. “It is probably the only event in the world where someone could source everything needed to put a wipe into the market from fibers and nonwovens, solution chemistries and formulations, converting machinery and testing equipment, and packaging options. That’s not to mention market intelligence, regulatory guidance, and product development and marketing consultants. The entire wipes ecosystem is represented.”

INDA touts WOW as a venue for manufacturers, converters and suppliers to connect, collaborate and explore. To that end, the event will focus on challenges and opportunities, U.S. manufacturing threats, tariff and regulatory threats, fiber sustainability, consumer perceptions fragrance trends, slitting innovations, and flushability, among other topics. Conference sessions include panel discussions and titles such as “From Forest to Flush”; “Trends, Tushes & Tik-Toks”; “Sniff, Save, Slice”; “No Plastic, No Problem”; and “Swipe Right.”

WOW also hosts two days of tabletop exhibits, including the Lightning Talks where tabletop exhibitors present five-minute product overviews. An evening reception allows for additional networking.

Hosted in conjunction with the conference and tabletop portion, the WIPES Academy two-day course held July 21-22 offers 12 expert-led sessions covering product conception through commercialization. Attendees may participate in the academy for an extra fee.
The World of Wipes Innovation Award®, to be announced on July 24, will recognize one winner from the submitted entries that leverages nonwoven fabrics or technologies within the entire wipes value chain to enhance wipe product functionality and expand the use of nonwovens. Eligible categories include raw materials, roll goods, converting, packaging, active ingredients, binders, additives and end-use products.

For more information about WOW, please visit worldofwipes.org.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

A Continued Glimpse Into The Future Of Composites

JEC World’s Festival of Composites again offered participants an updated view of the industry’s global direction.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

An article published a few years ago in Textile World touted the JEC World expo as a look at the future of composites (See “A Legitimate Glimpse Into The Future Of Composites,” TW, May/June 2023). It was clear after attending JEC World 2025 held at the Paris-Nord Villepinte in Paris that JEC not only continues to provide a glimpse into the future of composite materials, but also remains pound-for-pound one of the best trade shows or events focused on advancing the composites industry as a whole. This year’s edition proved to be another record-breaking affair as more than 1,350 international exhibitors welcomed more than “45,000 professional visits from 94 countries,” according to JEC’s post-show press release.

This year’s “festival of composites,” again featured representation from virtually every aspect of the composites industry’s supply chain with numerous examples of current and future applications on display. The expo floor is laid out like a big city, where main street — or maybe since the event is in Paris, the Champs-Élysées — houses the larger name brands in booths displaying the latest and greatest. However, also similar to a big city, one really must be sure to visit lesser-known boroughs and back streets because that’s where many of the hidden treasures are to be found.

Featured applications this year focused on the automotive industry and as such, general transportation and mobility applications were on display throughout the exhibit halls. In addition, there also were dedicated spaces featuring sporting goods and renewable energy applications, among end uses. As a result, it certainly felt like carbon fiber products and applications dominated the show, but also a solid presence from glass, basalt, polymer-based fibers and natural fibers could be found in a number of booths. Numerous other composite parts, components and applications from battery systems, hydrogen tanks and fiber-based rebar to bicycles, drones, boats, protective gear, and prosthetics were also found across the expo floor.

Clockwise from top: Textechno’s Roving Test modular system; a Boston Dynamics Robot; composite pipe cross sections; and a wood composite bicycle frame represented a portion of the objects on display at JEC World 2025.

Previous Innovations Becoming Mainstream

One observation from JEC World emerged after a discussion with Steve Clarke, business development manager and mentor for Woonsocket, R.I.-based FMI Textiles (formerly known as TEAM Inc.) “It’s nice to see that the seeds of several innovative technologies viewed during previous JEC visits are now starting to gain traction and bear fruit,” Clarke offered, and this was evidenced throughout the expo floor. These innovations included continued recycling and sustainability initiatives, the increasing use of natural fibers in varied applications, fiber reinforced composite building materials, and continued advancements in fiber placement and large-scale 3D printing.

While still building support from many U.S.-based companies, sustain-ability, recycling and circularity efforts are now front and center and only continuing to gain in importance in Europe and elsewhere. JEC’s post show press release highlighted the “launch of the European Composites Circular Alliance on March 4th, which has European Commission support. Many strategic partnerships were signed during the expo with converging efforts of all stake holders, heading towards a sustainable future by creating a global statement and a tangible source of inspiration.” The Natural Fibers Village on the expo floor highlighted companies working with bio-based and renewable materials including flax and hemp, and wood fiber composite pieces, along with recyclable resin systems and new product applications.

Fiber reinforced composite building materials could be found throughout the expo hall in varied forms. Composite rebar and grid systems were found at different booths, and, according to Lee Berry — a product consultant for Basalt Uzbekistan, a basalt fiber manufacturer based in Uzbekistan — “Composite rebar, including those produced with basalt, is gaining favor in the building industry as a replacement for traditional steel rebar because it is non-corrosive and doesn’t degrade or rust when used. Composite rebar is significantly lighter in weight and easier to handle than traditional rebar making it much more cost effective to transport and work with on a daily basis.”

Large scale 3D printing technology grows more prevalent and was also on display at several booths in the form of unique furniture pieces, and building models integrating wall structures with complex shapes and inclusions to support a myriad of needs and functionalities.

Carbon’s usage in composite applications was on display throughout the show floor.

A Few Of This Year’s Notables

It doesn’t take long for a JEC World attendee, either a first timer or one who has participated multiple times, to realize how directly lives are now influenced by composite technologies and this year’s expo only amplified that growing level of influence. Yes, again there were many examples that provided the feeling of again being able to look at the future from many different directions.

However, politics and the potential for tariffs emanating from the United States were very much on the minds of most attendees and so came to the forefront of many discussions. As a result, “How are you guys planning to address possible tariffs with your customers?” was a question heard repeatedly during the event and in conversations between colleagues and companies up and down the global supply chain. Many in attendance either offered their opinion or simply expressed curiosity, frustration and/or concern about the prospect of tariffs from the United States and its potential effects on future business activities as well as the global economy in general.

Artificial Intelligence & Robotics

Artificial Intelligence (AI), robotics, modeling and production-enhancing software systems touting improved processing times, and cost savings continued to be of interest. Some examples of these systems could be found employed in various processing technologies, testing systems on display, as well as the improvements in the 3D-printing and fiber-placement systems previously mentioned.

Italy-based Belotti —a manufacturer of three and five-axis computer numerically controlled (CNC) machining centers — used JEC World to introduce a new modular Automatic Riveting Cell (ARC) that may be configured to meet specific customer needs for use in automotive and aerospace composite assemblies.

Georg Sahm GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, introduced its new 460XE winder for composite materials. Mark Easley, sales manager for American Starlinger-Sahm Inc. in Fountain Inn, S.C., offered that “This winder works well with sensitive materials including fiber tapes and multifilament yarns or tows and it can be constructed with add-ons specific to customer needs.”

Germany-based Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG, showcased its FIMA Bond system, which previously won the JEC World Innovation Award. “The FIMA Bond system is used to accurately prepare and measure the adhesion of fibers to a matrix or resin system, which is needed by engineers and designers to develop consistent composite applications,” said Mark Reese, president of Spartanburg, S.C.-based Measured Solutions, the Textechno representative in North America. Among other technologies on display in Textechno’s booth was its RovingTest, a modular system that can be configured to a customer’s specifications for accurately measuring the processing properties of rovings.

A variety of enhanced resin systems and varied chemistries were prominent throughout the exhibit hall. Several touted their environmental friendliness, sustainability and recyclability enhancements while others offered increased performance in numerous ways. One resin system getting a lot of attention was Stamford, Conn.-based Hexcel Corp.’s M949, a new iteration of prepreg chemistry targeted for use in automotive applications where cosmetics are highly desired such as woven carbon panel composites with a glossy finish found on many high-performance vehicle parts in the transportation sector, for example. Racing vehicles and prototypes for electric vertical take-off and landing (eVTOL) vehicles immediately come to mind as an application for this technology.

“M949 is a toughened epoxy resin with a higher glass transition temperature that provides better part toughness,” noted Austin Conner, a sales engineer at Hexcel. “It also has a useable shelf life of 21 weeks at room temperature and as such, does not have to be kept in a freezer, which is very appealing to our customers. And the enhanced chemistries provide better cosmetics on the cured part, ideal for applications requiring a clean surface finish.”

Innovation Awards

JEC World again presented its Innovation Awards for “cutting-edge, creative projects which demonstrate the full potential of composite materials.” Several deserving products, projects and technologies were announced from a list of this year’s finalists. For a look at all of the JEC World 2025 Innovation Award winners, visit jec-world.events/program/innovation-awards.

After attending a number of different trade shows and expos, one begins to identify characteristics that in general make a good event or not. This year’s iteration of JEC World was indeed a well-run event as appreciated by many in attendance. Lauren Hickey, global market manager for Cincinnati-based Michelman, a manufacturer of water-based coatings and surface modifiers, reported that: “JEC World has been a good show for us. It’s unique in that it provides the opportunity to meet with customers from all over the world and gain unique global perspectives in one event.”

Sahm’s Easley added that JEC World is a “great show for us to help grow our global presence due to the number and variety of existing and potential customers that attend.” Measured Solutions’ Reese, when asked about his impression of JEC World suggested simply: “You know, I’ve been coming to JEC for years and truly don’t understand why more people from the United States don’t attend this event. I feel like if you’re active in the composites field, you have to be at JEC. You don’t have to attend every year, but you do have to attend. JEC continues to be the biggest, best and most influential gathering for the composites industry. It really is a fantastic event and some-how, they just keep making it better!”

Could not agree more, and yes, it really is a festival of composites.

The JEC World 2026 will return to the Paris-Nord Villepinte in Paris March 10-12, 2026.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

Dynamic Showcase, Industry Resilience And Karaoke: Inside Techtextil North America & Texprocess Americas 2025

France-based Lectra held demonstrations at its booth during Texprocess Americas. The company recently introduced the Valia Fashion digital platform powered by Industry 4.0 technologies.

The collocated events delivered a positive vibe despite tariffs and other economic concerns.

TW Special Report

Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2025, held recently at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta, showcased the best of the technical textiles and sewn products industry from almost 400 exhibitors from 28 countries. No visitor numbers were released by the show organizer Messe Frankfurt Inc., Atlanta, but it’s fair to say attendance was strong based on the number of people observed on the show floor and the general loud buzz in the halls.

“It’s inspiring to see such a diverse, dynamic community coming together under one roof,” said Sarah Hatcher, group show director for Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas. “This event is about more than what’s on display. It’s about the energy of discovery, the exchange of ideas and the relation-ships that drive this industry forward.

Techtextil North America is incorporated with ATME-I, and Texprocess Americas is coproduced by Raleigh, N.C.-based SPESA — the industry association for suppliers to the sewn products industry.

“We’re incredibly pleased with the success of Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America!” said SPESA President Michael McDonald. “There were more new exhibitors and first-time attendees than we’ve seen in recent years, which exemplifies the importance of these collocated shows. It also serves as a reminder that the industry is resilient and eager to build production processes closer to home.

“It has always been our mission for Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America to be an essential gathering place for people to better understand the vast soft goods manufacturing ecosystem that exists in the Americas. Whether it was through show floor networking, the Opening Night Reception, or the multitude of educational offerings, I’m confident that we achieved that goal.”

A Tech Talk given by representatives from the Alphabet Soup Collective explained the idea behind the collective to the audience.

Unified Exhibit Floor, Plenty To Experience

The combined Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas exhibitors provided a comprehensive look at the textile supply chain from raw materials and machinery to finished goods and supporting services. The show floor featured a showcase of the latest technologies, live demonstrations and the educational Tech Talks sessions. This year’s Tech Talks sessions were organized by Casey Strauch, Hohenstein Institute America, Melissa Sharp, Zeis Textiles Extension, Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker, and Jasmine Cox-Wade, Gaston College, who, according to Messe Frankfurt, helped bring some fresh perspective to the talks.

The symposium sessions, held away from the show floor in a classroom setting and available for an extra fee, offered visitors a deeper dive into education with both Techtextil North America and Texprocess hosting industry experts speaking on a variety of hot-button topics of importance to the industry including policy.

“I really liked the Symposium… it [had] a wide variety of [people] and speakers and I think it was great [to have] options of what might be interesting, and also [to learn] more about what other parts of the industry are doing… there was a [session] about recycled materials that I thought was amazing,” said Under Armour’s Stephanie Minite.

Messe Frankfurt’s Alexis Sivcovich (left), Unifi’s Meredith Boyd (center) and Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker at the Innovation Awards ceremony.

Innovation Awards

The Innovation Awards, presented on the show floor, honored companies and technologies that are groundbreaking and intelligent, sustainable and creative.

“The Innovation Awards continue to be a highlight of the show,” said Alexis Sivcovich, show manager, Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas. “This year’s winners proved that the future of our industry is not only bright — it’s already here.”

Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., was awarded the Best New Technology prize by Techtextil North America. On the Texprocess Americas side, Terrebonne, Québec-based Automatex Inc. won the Best New Technology & Digitalization award for its automated fitted sheet sewing and folding line; Tokyo-based JUKI won the Best New Technology award for its JUKI DX-01 lockstitch sewing system; and Alpharetta, Ga.-based Aptean Inc. won the Best New Concept prize for its Aptean Shop Floor Control.

“Receiving this award means a lot to us having been in the industry for many years,” said Per Bringle, senior manager, Aptean. “Increasing the efficiencies in productivity is just more important than ever right now. We really appreciate the recognition for the tools that we have developed to help manufacturers automate, shrink costs, and become more efficient. Bringing these technologies to the table to keep the margins intact and create greater throughput is needed now more than ever.”

Karaoke was a big draw during the opening reception.

Well-Attended Reception

An opening-night reception co-hosted by Messe Frankfurt and SPESA, and promoted by the Alphabet Soup Collective of textile organizations was a sold-out affair. Many show participants who waited to buy a ticket were disappointed to learn they could not get in the day of the reception. The event offered good food, continued networking and live-band karaoke for those brave enough to get up and sing.

Participants’ Point-Of-View

The ever-changing tariff issues loomed large, but seemed to have little impact on the success of the show. In fact, most participants spoke highly of numerous business opportunities that were discussed during the three-day event.

“Techtextil North America in Atlanta was one of the best for Mehler Engineered Products,” said Jim Briggs, Mehler’s general manager for North America. “We had numerous meetings on new and existing business. We also met several engineers to discuss product designs for future developments. This is a testimony to the quality of the attendees at the event, as well as the work we put into setting up technical discussions in advance.” Briggs also noted that as a Germany-based company, Mehler books a booth in the Germany Pavilion, which offers the company additional resources during Techtextil North America.

Spartanburg, S.C.-based Symtech Inc.’s CEO Per Olofsson echoed Briggs’ comments. “We had lots of excellent discussions with both cur-rent and new customers from all over the country,” he reported.

Dominic Rawson, managing director, R&M International, Norristown, Pa., usually attends the show as a visitor. However, “We exhibited this year and found it to be very worthwhile,” Rawson said. “We generated some very good leads for some of the new business we are promoting in aramids and carbon fibers. We found a lot of interest in our recycling and sustain-ability programs as we are making felts using recycled carbon fibers for use in prepregs for lightweight structures.” Rawson also noted there was a strong presence from Europe at the show. “I believe there will be a lot more cooperation between the United States and European countries due to fears of relying solely on China as a supplier,” he said. “The general mood was positive from customers and suppliers who are confident that tariffs will get sorted out, but more importantly, new opportunities will come to the surface.”

The next Techtextil North America will take place next in Raleigh, N.C., August 4-6, 2026. The collocated Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America will return to Atlanta May 11-13, 2027.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

e.dye® Solution-Dyeing Technology System: Better Color For A Better World

e.dye® yarn cards illustrating just some of the color
possibilities with the solution-dyeing system developed by the company.

Using a proven industrial process to color synthetic yarns are they are extruded, e.dye® offers a more sustainable alternative to traditional chemical dyeing while also improving color performance.

TW Special Report

Solution dyeing is nothing new, but Hong Kong-based e.dye® Ltd. was formed by George Yang to develop a robust and sustainable solution for textile colorization in the fashion industry using solution dyeing.

Yang’s vision to grow the company was to create more colors as well as sharable color recipes, and the initial effort that began in 2012 with six colors has grown into a library of approximately 10,000 color recipes.

e.dye operates an Innovation Center in China, e.dye Kunshan Ltd., that offers a color lab, testing facility, and pilot and production lines for its solution-dyed Waterless Color System™. The company also owns two SMARTEX™ production facilities — Smartex Solution Co. Ltd. in China, and Smartex Solution Taiwan Ltd. in Taiwan — where the masterbatch is made. Smartex also is e.dye’s captive converter of textiles.

U.S. Footprint

e.dye Americas Inc. was spun off from the parent company in October 2024. It is a free-standing corporation based in Portland, Ore., with Michael Murphy at the helm as the sole shareholder currently. “We created e.dye Americas in response to our customers asking for more on-shore, near-shore sourcing for reasons of saving transportation costs and pollution,” Murphy said. “It has also been useful in addressing the current tariff chaos!”

Murphy continued: “We have a unique capability to develop sustainable, long-lasting colors by deploying our vast library of color recipes to translate color from the designer’s mind into reality. We offer and can implement an entire supply chain solution, not simply create a color.”

Measuring and blending colored masterbatch with uncolored polyester chip.

Evolution Of Solution Dyeing

Solution dyeing has long been utilized in the production of carpets and upholstery, where limited color choices and high minimum color quantities (MCQs) are acceptable. However, the demands of the fashion industry necessitated crucial upgrades to this process, including reduced MCQs and a broader range of colors.

The e.dye® Color System

The e.dye Color System represents a transformative approach to coloring polyester and nylon yarns, leveraging solution- or dope-dyeing technology. This industrial process involves coloring yarns as they are extruded, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional chemical dyeing methods. e.dye addresses the environmental impact of dyeing and enhancing color performance, paving the way for better color solutions.

A blended mixture about to enter the extruder

Through innovation and adaptation, e.dye has bridged the gap between traditional solution dyeing and the demands of modern textile industries. Central to this transformation is the development of SMART Colors™ and the ESP™ System, which collectively streamline the process of color creation. SMART Colors, with its curated palette, provides versatility and efficiency, enabling designers and manufacturers to respond swiftly to changing market trends. Meanwhile, the ESP System empowers brands with precision tools to refine their color strategies, ensuring a seamless integration of sustainability and performance.

An illustration of the solution-dyeing process

Challenges In Color Matching And Consistency

Most brands encounter significant hurdles with current dyeing techniques, including poor color matching, consistency and colorfastness. These challenges often lead to product returns and unsaleable goods, particularly when colors bleed onto lighter shades during shipment or retail sales. e.dye’s advanced online color selection ESP System and its almost 10,000 searchable colors facilitates faster color development times, improved shade matching, and enhanced consistency, enabling brands to overcome common color failures.

Enhancements Through The ESP™ System

The digital ESP System serves as a cornerstone of e.dye’s advanced solution dyeing process. This plat-form enables brands to select existing color recipes for masterbatch colors — the foundational color ingredient in solution dyeing. By offering preconfigured recipes and streamlined color development pathways, the ESP System empowers brands to achieve superior results in record time. Additionally, it fosters collaboration and precision, ensuring that each color meets stringent standards for quality and consistency.

The extruded, solution-dyed yarns.

SMART Colors™

SMART Colors curated selection of pre-developed colors is available in a versatile yarn size — 75 denier/72 filament draw textured yarn (DTY). These SMART Colors allow brands to accommodate quick production cycles and lower MCQs, ensuring greater adaptability to market demands.

“By locating roughly 10,000 color recipes and performing commercial trials in the L*a*b* color space, we can easily offer brands quick turns on possible matches for any custom color,” Murphy said. “There are many things to consider when using solution dyeing — it’s not a simple buy-sell proposition. Of course, through the entire process, we identify which color recipe may be the most sustainable, the best performing with regards to color fastness and consistency, the cheapest, and the recipe with the lowest working loss percentage in terms of lowest colorant dosing and highest strength in bulk yarn production.”

Color prediction software used in research and development at e.dye.

Sustainable, Trusted Solution

Brands often face a difficult dilemma with colorization — whether to adhere to a traditional water-dye technology or to seek a more sustainable path. The solution dyeing approach eliminates this com-promise by achieving both goals. By utilizing zero water during the yarn colorization process, reducing chemical usage, and lowering the carbon footprint, it offers an environmentally responsible alternative without sacrificing quality or performance.

To address any concerns that may arise, the process is backed by robust, third-party verification systems, including bluesign®, which certifies the chemical and yarn manufacturing stages. This transparency reinforces trust, enabling brands to confidently adopt a sustainable yet efficient model of textile colorization.

e.dye has a lab to conduct tests on yarns and finished textiles.

e.dye brand partners currently include Oslo-based clothing and sports equipment company Helly Hansen, Switzerland-based manufacturer of alpine sport clothing and equipment Mammut, Italy-based clothing company Paul & Shark Yachting and Sweden-based apparel company Oscar Jacobson.

Core Benefits of e.dye® Technology

According to Murphy, e.dye offers a variety of benefits to apparel manufacturers:

  • Improved Color Performance: e.dye technology enhances colorfastness, ensuring colors retain their vibrancy and durability over time.
  • Enhanced Consistency: By setting high standards for color matching with a target of DE 0.8 or under, e. dye drastically reduces inconsistencies. In contrast, traditional techniques often result in variances as high as DE 6.0, as noted during the 2024 AATCC Design Summit.
  • Faster Color Development: Brands benefit from accelerated approval processes and development timelines, minimizing delays in production cycles.
  • Sustainability: By offering a more environmentally friendly alternative to chemical dyeing, e.dye contributes to a better world, aligning with core values of ecological responsibility.
A hangtag program allows cobranding and a QR code shares information with a consumer about the product

Financial Incentives, Costs

According to Murphy: “With effective strategic planning, clear core color alignment, and strong commitment, it’s possible to construct a compelling argument for enhancing inventory turnover by shortening development and production time-lines by up to 12 weeks.” These reduced lead times could translate into higher inventory turns and improved return on investment.

Sustainability directors with major brands and retailers often argue that there is no such thing as a “green tax.” Many believe that consumers are unwilling to pay a premium for sustainable textile products1. While this perspective is open to debate, the solution dye approach, when paired with an effective design and development strategy, can achieve cost parity or even lead to small cost savings. This approach is borne out by multiple deliveries to the world’s largest retailer, according to Murphy.

e.dye won an ISPO 2024 Top Product award for its uniform crafted entirely from polyester including the fabric, buttons, sewing and embroidery threads and labels in a mono-material concept.

The e.dye process also helps reduce costs that are often overlooked on traditional fabric cost sheets. These reductions include expenses associated with maintaining global offices to audit dye house color-matching capabilities, lengthy color development timelines, four- to six-week colorization lead times, and losses resulting from returns due to inadequate color fastness. Additionally, poor color performance can harm brand reputation — an intangible, but critical cost.

Fundamental Question

A reasonable inquiry might be, “If this process enhances color performance and significantly reduces the environmental impact of textile colorization, why hasn’t it been universally adopted?”

According to Murphy, one major obstacle for any transformative shift is overcoming resistance within various brand functions — such as designers, colorists and textile developers — to adapt and rethink their established practices. “Current design and development workflows are deeply rooted in traditional colorization methods, which date back to the 1650s and rely on water, chemicals, and heat to color finished textiles,” Murphy noted.

e.dye samples from pellet to fabric

In addition, this approach of course requires a transformation in process for fabric manufacturers. “It’s a paradigm shift in process thinking,” Murphy acknowledged. “The success of solution-dyed fabrics will require a strategic partnership between brand and supplier.

“But keep in mind that preposition in masterbatch color and yarn color requires color forecast and volume forecast ahead of time,” Murphy continued. “If these two forecasts are in place when a brand places an order with the sewing factory, then a fabric producer can immediately begin production and save six weeks that would be required for color samples and dyeing time.”

It’s also possible to use a yarn color in multiple fabric styles. “This requires a strategic plan of design to color to yarn in color to fabrics in color to commodity,” Murphy added. “In order to get the e.dye process adopted, we need to work across development ‘silos’ and get buy-in from a supply chain that is committed to sustainability.”

Future Outlook

The company is currently collaborating with the NC State Wilson College of Textiles, Raleigh, N.C. e.dye is using the school’s extrusion lab to execute color trials for approval in the United States. The eventual goal is to establish a pilot facility in the United States for e.dye.

Another goal is to achieve scale, according to Murphy. “We need scale, not only to drive down costs but to move the needle as far as water, chemical and carbon dioxide savings are concerned,” he said. “Our objective is clear — ‘to make sustainability the easy choice’ as noted by Doug McMillon at the 2024 Walmart Sustainability Milestone Summit. For Walmart, and everyone else, that means a sustainable option cannot be more expensive. In fact, if we design the products and industrial processes correctly — using fewer energy inputs, for example — why can’t the sustainable solution also be the cheapest?”

Among e.dye’s strengths, Murphy notes the COLOR JOURNEY™. “Through our own captive SMAR-TEX textile converters located in China and Vietnam, e.dye has the capability to demonstrate to a brand the ‘journey’ color makes from color conception and design to yarn and textile creation right through to commodity production,” Murphy said. “If a brand cooperates, we can show them how to increase efficiency across what we call the yarn-color platform. We can build an intelligent, plan-full approach to color yarn and fabrics where transparency is the key.”

The e.dye solution-dyeing process embodies a paradigm shift in the textile industry, merging innovation, sustainability and performance. By addressing longstanding challenges in color matching, consistency, and environmental impact, e.dye equips brands with the tools they need to succeed in a competitive market.

With a vision for a better world, e.dye is working to redefine the possibilities of color technology.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

New Horizons For Monforts Partners In Pakistan

New Monforts Thermex continuous dyeing range at the Artistic Milliners Art Mill finishing plant. (Image courtesy of Artistic Milliners)

Monforts continues to gain significant repeat orders for its equipment from Pakistan’s major vertically-integrated textile manufacturers as they seek to both expand and diversify into new markets.

By Adrian Wilson

Monforts customers in the regions around Pakistan’s three biggest cities of Karachi, Lahore and Faisalabad include all of the main players in the fields of home textiles and denim production.

“These companies rely on our established technologies including Montex stentering equipment, Monfortex sanforizing units and Thermex dyeing ranges,” said Monforts Area Sales Manager Manfred Havenith.

“As they look to new markets in today’s highly competitive industry, we continue to assist them with trials and optimized processing parameters in developing advanced fabrics for a wide range of end-uses, both at their own plants and at our Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Germany.”

Monforts Area Sales Manager
Manfred Havenith

Nearshoring

Karachi-headquartered denim powerhouse Artistic Milliners, for example, recently ordered two new Montex tenter frames, along with a new Thermex continuous dyeing range and a Monfortex sanforizing line from Monforts for its new Art Mill finishing plant.

Artistic Milliners currently has an annual production capacity of 108 million meters of fabric and 30 mil-lion garments, and fabric dyeing and finishing is naturally central to the company’s operations. It produces more than 500 shades of denim, along with applying a myriad different texture and surface treatments.

In other recent expansion and diversification initiatives, in 2020 Artistic Milliners acquired Star Fades International (SFI), a denim factory in Commerce, Calif., providing it with a strategic foothold in the United States and the capacity to meet increased demand from inter-national retailers and brands for nearshoring capacity, digital design services and sustainable solutions.

“California has historically been an important cornerstone for the international denim industry and as the first Pakistan denim company with an operational factory in Los Angeles, we are developing a state-of-the-art design and production hub based on Supply Chain 4.0 principles,” explained Murtaza Ahmed, founder of SFI and executive director at Artistic Milliners.

The demand for nearshoring in the United States continues to be driven by the need for shorter lead times, reduced carbon footprint and greater supply chain resilience. Consequently, in September 2024, Artistic Milliners announced the further acquisition of Dickies de Parras, a denim manufacturer based in Parras, Mexico, to raise its Americas production to 5 million pairs of jeans per year.

NML’s New Thermex

Geographical expansion alongside product diversification also are priorities for Lahore-headquartered home textiles leader Nishat Mills Ltd.(NML), another long-standing Mon-forts customer which is currently installing a new Thermex dyeing range — the company’s fourth.

“More than 40 Thermex continuous dyeing ranges have been installed in Pakistan in recent years and we have achieved considerable success with our Econtrol system, which is a most effective and established dyeing process,” Havenith said. “Operator training on the Econtrol process by sophisticated technologists is an additional service we provide.”

Bespoke Solutions

NML, established in 1951, also now operates eight Montex tenters and three Monfortex sanforizing units. With more than 251,800 spindles and 7,320 rotors at seven spinning units, it has a daily production capacity of 270 tons of cotton and blended yarns and produces around 30 million square meters of fabric each month on 931 modern air-jet looms.

Its fabric processing facility is one of the largest and most modern in Pakistan, with an array of bespoke machinery and the capacity to dye and fully finish an annual 104 million meters of fabric. The facility is specially designed to handle heavy weight fabrics such as twills, can-vases and poplins, as well as stretch fabrics and high-density weaves.

Nishat Mills (NML) has acquired Denmark-based workwear maker Wernerfelt. (Image courtesy of Wernerfelt)

In recent moves, Nishat has established a wholly owned subsidiary in Türkiye as well as offices in Bangladesh and the United Kingdom, and has also acquired Denmark-based fabric maker Wernerfelt. Wernerfelt supplies performance fabrics for personal protection and workwear, specializing in flame retardant modacrylic blends made with flame-retardant properties as well as high visibility textiles, breathable, waterproof laminates and other fabrics made for industrial use.

“This collaboration heralds a new phase in the evolution of Nishat Group,” said CEO Umer Mansha.

UK Input

Workwear is also now a major business for Sapphire Textile Mills, a second Lahore-based company and Monforts Thermex customer.

Since 2021, Sapphire has been involved in Carrington Textiles International, a dyeing and finishing joint venture with the UK’s Carrington Textiles providing up to 50 million meters a year of specialized fabrics to a well-established global customer base.

Sapphire Textile Mills now has a dyeing and finishing joint venture with the UK workwear specialist Carrington Textiles.
(Image courtesy of Carrington)

With a legacy of more than 130-years, Carrington Textiles and its dyeing and finishing partner company Pincroft — also a Monforts customer — supply workwear and protective clothing to some of the biggest corporate companies in the world. These companies include Airbus, Arcelor Mittal, BP, BUPA, Coca Cola, Jaguar Land Rover, McDonald’s, Shell and TATA Steel. The two UK companies also supply millions of meters of fabric to the armed forces of many countries.

“Carrington Textiles International is an excellent project we are excited to be part of, and we are pleased our longstanding relationship with Carrington Textiles has developed into this joint venture,” said Sapphire’s COO Nabeel Abdullah Workwear based on high performance blended fabrics and flame-retardant materials is also now a growing sector of Sapphire’s own portfolio, alongside home textiles, sportswear and denim.

Principles

“The Monforts commitment to customer service is based on four principles — being helpful, accurate, fast and reliable,” Havenith notes in conclusion. “We have a reputation for quickly and efficiently dispatching spares and components, and online support is always available when needed.

“We have also worked with Al Ameen, our valued partner in Pakistan for over 40 years and this close cooperation, along with constant R&D and machine innovations — both in terms of productivity and energy savings — has allowed Monforts to build an 80-percent market share for stenters in Pakistan and to retain it for a number of decades. We remain dedicated to the ongoing success of our valued customers in Pakistan.”

Editor’s Note: Adrian Wilson is an England-based analyst and writer specializing in the technical textiles, nonwovens and composites industries. He is the owner of AWOL Media.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

Outerknown: Minds Forever On The Sea

Surfer and Outerknown Co-Founder Kelly Slater testing the Apex Evolution Trunks.

Outerknown partnered with Bureo to develop its Apex Evolution Trunks, transforming ocean waste into next-level surf apparel.

By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor

Perhaps there is no one more suited than an 11-time world champion surfer — someone with an intimate relationship with the oceans and great outdoors — to establish a sustainable apparel brand. Pro surfer Kelly Slater along with Creative Director John Moore founded the Outerknown brand in 2015 with a goal to design and sell wardrobe staples that protect natural resources and focus on responsible sourcing practices, among other commitments.

“Everything we make is designed with great intent and purpose, and we’ll always make the most responsible design and development choices as it relates to our materials and the suppliers who share our values and take care of their workers,” Moore noted.

According to the company, Outerknown’s current collections are made using 99 percent preferred fibers —which includes organic, Regenerative Organic Certified®, recycled, regenerated and biobased materials.

Apex Evolution Trunks

Outerknown’s recent introduction— the Apex Evolution Trunks — feature NetPlus® fiber created from 100-percent-post-consumer recycled fishing nets. The fiber, produced by Bureo, also is 100-percent traceable. The woven fabric is 90-percent NetPlus/10-percent spandex. According to Outerknown, the trunks — three years in the making — represent the first four-way stretch boardshorts made using post-consumer recycled fishing nets.

“Continual progression is in our brand’s lifeblood, so it’s only natural that we were inspired to take the highest performance trunk ever made [first-generation Apex trunks] and make it even better,” Moore said. “With our minds forever on the sea, we teamed up with our friends at Bureo to utilize their unmatched NetPlus material made from recycled fishing nets. This yielded a truly responsibly made trunk with a little more substance than the first Apex without compromising any performance qualities.”

Washed and sorted fishing nylon fishing nets are shredded and prepped for depolymerization. (Image courtesy of Bureo)

Bureo’s NetPlus®

Bureo, a certified B-Corporation, developed NetPlus to reduce the harmful impacts of fishing waste on the oceans. Discarded fishing nets are collected directly from fishing communities via Bureo’s incentivized NetPlus recycling program. This prevents the old nets from ending up in the environment.

Bureo then sorts, cleans, shreds and packs the collected nets before sending them to Bureo’s recycling partners. There, the nylon nets undergo a depolymerization process where they are broken down into their chemical building blocks. This process also removes any dyes and impurities from the nylon. The building blocks are then used to construct 100-percent NetPlus nylon pellets that can be extruded into high-quality yarns.

The depolymerized material is turned into NetPlus nylon pellets. (Image courtesy of Bureo)

“The entire process, from collection through recycling, is third-party audited and certified for material traceability,” said David Stover, CEO and co-founder, Bureo. “Utilizing NetPlus material empowers fishing communities around the world by providing waste management infrastructure, employment opportunities, and non-profit funding. Bureo continues to scale NetPlus material to provide a preferred recycled input for performance fabrics, lowering emissions and reducing reliance on virgin materials.”

Fabric Development

For the Apex Trunk, Bureo worked with Outerknown to develop the fabric construction to ensure the performance characteristics were achieved. “This was an iterative process that incorporated significant field testing and adjustments to stretch and finishing to meet the performance and hand feel requirements,” Stover said. “The yarn texture and weaving of the fabric being the main contributors to the desired functionality. We were focused on building a more durable boardshort material with structure, while not compromising performance.”

“Developing a boardshort material for Kelly has been an incredibly rewarding experience for the entire Bureo team,” said Bureo Co-Founder and CTO Kevin Ahearn. “We were able to work closely with the Outerknown team to perfect the fabric blend to ensure it’s durable enough for the demanding spots Kelly surfs, but still super lightweight, with the right amount of stretch to be comfortable for long days in the ocean; we’re thrilled to now share it with the industry.”

Apex Evolution Trunk

Construction Details

The fiber composition and fabric design were not the only details considered when creating the Apex Evolution Trunks. Construction details were thoughtfully planned and designed to meet Slater’s design requests, which included an improved no-slip drawcord; a waistband that cinched without bunching; and thread-free, ultrasonically bonded seams that are more comfortable and prevent chafing.

“We envision and design everything in-house and develop in close partnerships with our global supplier partners who share our responsible mission,” Moore emphasized. “All our suppliers are thoroughly vetted and approved.”

Once designs are conceptualized and produced using computer-aided design software in-house, Outer-known builds tech packs that it sends to supplier partners. Next, all material selections are made and developed with mill partners, making sure the products meet Outerknown’s preferred fiber guidelines. Prototypes are refined for fit over multiple rounds to ensure garment comfort and sizing before samples are wear-tested by a team of brand ambassadors. Using feedback from the wear-tests, Outerknown finalizes all manufacturing details before moving the garment into production. “Our responsible buying practices dictate the flow of our calendar all the way through delivery,” Moore said.

“When designing, every decision we make is deliberate and extremely considered down to the smallest details and trims,” Moore Said. “Nothing is overlooked. This takes time as exemplified by the three-plus years of R&D to find the right Net-Plus weight and construction for the performance standards of the APEX Evolution launch, and the end result is always something we stand by — the best we can do right now, and we’ll always strive to be better with every new product.”

Future Use Of NetPlus

Outerknown has a long-standing partnership with Bureo for incorporating NetPlus. The brand first used NetPlus in hat brims in 2021 and continues to use the material in its headwear. NetPlus also is currently featured in puffers and jackets sold by Outerknown. Moore noted that it will be featured in some lifestyle bot-toms the brand plans to introduce next year. “We will continuously look for more product to incorporate NetPlus and also have some accessories in the works,” he said.

Slater’s Verdict

According to Outerknown, the APEX Evolution Trunk is one of the most successful launches in the brand’s history.

“After three years of dialing in the details, these trunks are really impressive,” Slater said. “Big improvements. Better fit, better length, a great scallop on the side for room in the leg. The materials hold up better too, and the string tie holds up great and doesn’t come undone. I’m confident these are the best trunks ever made.”

2025 Quarterly Issue II

All-In-One Textile Sourcing Platform

Collocated events — Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing NYC, Home Textiles Sourcing NYC and Printsource — will bring the best in fabric, apparel, home textiles and design to the Javits Center this July.

TW Special Report

Texworld New York City (NYC) will return to the Javits Center in New York City July 23-25, 2025. The global textile and fabric sourcing event, held biannually in New York City and organized by Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Ltd., will be collocated with sister shows Apparel Sourcing New York City and Home Textiles Sourcing New York City, forming a comprehensive shopping platform for those looking for fabrics, apparel and home and other soft goods. As an additional draw for visitors, Printsource @ Texworld, a surface and textile design show, will run concurrently at the Javits Center in partnership with Texworld NYC.

Texworld NYC exhibitors showcase the latest in fabrics from basics up to unique fiber blends, innovative fabric structures and on-trend color palettes.

Apparel Sourcing NYC, a joint venture between Messe Frankfurt and China-based Sub-Council of Textile Industry, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT-Tex), focuses on finished apparel, contract manufacturing and private label development. Suppliers specializing in ready-to-wear collections for men, women and children will exhibit their latest apparel and accessories.

Home Textiles Sourcing NYC highlights new fabrics and products for home collections to manufacturers, retailers, jobbers, converters, contract specifiers and designers.

Trend forecasts also are at the heart of Texworld NYC. This year’s Trend Theme showcase and presentation is curated by New York City-based trend agency DONEGAR |TOBE. A deep dive into the emerging trends and innovative fabrics will be presented during a Textile Talk. Participants may also take the guided Explore the Floor Tour to view up close the curated trend segments on the exhibit floor.

Texworld NYC also offers seminars, panel discussions and workshops for attendees. Led by industry experts, topics will cover sustainable fabric sourcing and emerging trends as well as innovations in the textile industry.

As with other Messe Frankfurt trade shows, the NYC events will explore sustainability under the “Econogy” label. Accordingly, a new feature at the summer edition is Dead-stock, an area dedicated to showcasing upcycled materials and circular fashion solutions. According to Messe Frankfurt, deadstock fabrics currently are one of the most in-demand fabric categories for U.S. buyers.

The shows are open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Wednesday and Thursday, July 23-24; and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Friday, July 25.

For those interested in sourcing on the West Coast this summer, Messe Frankfurt also will present Texworld Los Angeles and Apparel Sourcing Los Angeles at the California Market Center, Los Angeles, July 29-31, 2025. Printsource @ Texworld LA will also collocate in partnership with Texworld LA.

For more information about the shows and to register, visit texworld-usa.us.messefrankfurt.com, home-textiles-sourcing.us.messefrankfurt.com, printsourcenewyork.com and texworld-la.us.messefrankfurt.com.

2025 Quarterly Issue II

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Exposition Takes Center Stage In Shanghai

A founding member and official representative of the OEKO-TEX® organization, Switzerland-based
TESTEX® showcased the latest policies and tailor-made services for the textile industry at Intertextile.

Shanghai’s National Exhibition and Convention Center hosted more than 4,030 exhibitors across three Messe Frankfurt collocated textile expositions — Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo.

TW Special Report

Three Messe Frankfurt collocated textile expositions — Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo — recently gave more than 4,030 exhibitors the opportunity to connect with visitors from more than 131 countries and regions.

The sheer enormity of the of the concurrent show’s footprint was still dwarfed by the size of the venue — the National Exhibition and Convention Center (NECC) (Shanghai) — which at 15.8 million square feet is the largest convention center of its kind in the world.

Taking place in early spring, the shows occurred prior to U.S. tariff announcements and had the air of the established international trading history of the past.

Intertextile support staff, who were a great help in navigating the shows, were difficult to miss in their colorful uniforms.

Rooted In Commerce

Exposition organizer Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. is owned by Germany-based Messe Frankfurt GmbH, which is one of the largest fair organizers in the world with its huge global footprint and 800 years of history.

The first Frankfurt, Germany-based fair was initiated by Royal Charter in 1240 by Emperor Fredrick II supporting the welfare of traveling merchants, providing a safe environment for business and promoting trade. In 1330, Emperor Louis IV continued the support of the event and as the city of Frankfurt grew through the years, so did its influence in commerce.

After World War II, the fair entered the modern era with its first post-war show in 1948, which gave rise to Messe Frankfurt. From there the company’s list of shows grew to include Heimtextil and Interstoff with an evolving international presence. Today, Messe Frankfurt is a leader in international trade fairs and exhibitions across a variety of industries including textiles.

In 2022, Wendy Wen assumed new responsibilities as the managing director and chairperson of the Board of Management, Messe Frank-furt (HK) Ltd. to manage most commercial concerns for the subsidiary. Utilizing her expertise in operations and sponsorship marketing, Wen also has continued to manage the company’s trade fairs for consumer goods, textiles & textile technolo-gies in Greater China.

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics

Wendy Wen, managing director, Messe Frankfurt (HK) characterized the recent Shanghai events by saying: “We were pleased with the high visitor flow at all three shows, as well as the positive exhibitor feedback overall and for new elements such as Econogy Hub. Across numerous platforms, Messe Frankfurt’s global Texpertise Network of 500,000 participants puts us in a great position to observe the market and seize new opportunities when they emerge.”

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics was first launched in 1995. Formerly known as Intertextile Shanghai Fair, it was established in cooperation with the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT TEX); and China Textile Information Centre.

The spring 2025 iteration offered 3,100 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions the opportunity to engage with a near record setting number of visitors.

Aisles upon aisles of exhibitors — large and small, as well as well-known and unfamiliar — drew nearly 95,000 attendees from 131 countries and regions.

Rinoa Zong, marketing manager of TESTEX (Shanghai) Textile Testing Co. Ltd.

Concurrent Shows

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics was conveniently located adjacent to the Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Spring Edition and Yarn Expo at the NECC. This made exploring the three events more manageable, but a deeper dive would take considerable time.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Spring Edition

Organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK), CCPIT TEX and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA), Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Spring Edition featured more than 370 exhibitors engaged with some 25,000 visitors from 85 countries and regions. Visitor numbers increased 8 percent; and organizers noted that the number of international visitors was more than double that of the previous spring edition.

Chad Doub, Global Segment marketing manager for Fibers-Textiles-Casual & Home at Kingsport, Tenn.-based Eastman poses with articles made using Eastman’s Naia™ cellulosic fiber —a fiber focused on everyday comfort as well as technical performance.

The show focuses on bedding, toweling, curtains, carpets, rugs, upholstery and more. There were a full range of brands and suppliers present with eight major Chinese home textile pavilions.

Chu Yajun, sales manager, Shanghai Ruiping Trading Co. Ltd. — which is the global authorized dealers of St. Paul, Minn.-based 3M™’s Thinsulate™ insulation — stated: “We are promoting four Thinsulate models for home textiles, along with various functional options like anti-allergy and antibacterial products. This show is well regarded, attracting both domestic and international customers. Foreign brands are increasingly interested in eco-friendly features, a trend that local customers are also adopting. Thus, we prioritize environmental protection, innovation, and functionality in our product development.”

Peter Seah, vice president, Asia Global for Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies presented interlinings and components from the Lainiere Paris and the Fusion lines.

Spring edition visitor Shirley Xu, merchandise manager, Americana International (Shanghai) Ltd., USA reported to the organizer: “Specializing in home textiles like bedding sets and cushions, we’re seeking exhibitors who prioritize patterns and functionality, especially fashionable prints. The fringe events are beneficial for keeping us updated on popular market trends. I’ve noticed the Chinese market aligning more with international standards, and this show features a diverse range of both local and foreign exhibitors.”

Fringe Speakers’ Insight

Designed to share the latest textile knowledge and development, the Intertextile Apparel Fringe Program covered four core themes — on-trend fashion, functionality, sustainability and digitalization. Panel discussion topics included Econogy Talks, Technology and Solutions, and Design and Trends. During the Econogy Talks segment, certifiers, producers, industry experts, among others spoke about solutions, best practices and challenges related to sustainability in the apparel sector.

Cellulose fiber producer Sateri (Fujian) Fibre Co Ltd., an ever-present exhibitor at Yarn Expo, organized a pavilion featuring 15 of its downstream yarn partners.

“Our decision to participate in this seminar stems from our long-standing involvement with Intertextile,” said Laurie Pressman, vice president, Pantone Color Institute, Carlstadt, N.J., who participated in the Fringe Speakers Program. “We’ve been attending for many years because it serves as a vital platform in the home textiles and fashion industries. This year, we had the opportunity to present trends specifically for home textiles, which is particularly exciting as we’ve been forecasting colors for the home furnishings market for over two decades. Conducting seminars like this allows us to share our color intelligence, helping manufacturers understand which colors consumers’ desire.”

Cotton USA was active with a prominent location on the show floor of the Yarn Expo.

Yarn Expo Spring 2025

Yarn Expo also set a record with 562 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions — an exhibitor increase of 6 percent from the previous edition. China, Germany, Hong Kong China, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Singapore, Taiwan China, Türkiye, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, Uzbekistan, and Vietnam were all represented.

Nearly 24,000 visitors networked with suppliers presenting their latest collections of natural, regenerated, and man-made fibers and yarns, as well as specialty products including elastic, and fancy and blended yarns.

The 27,000 square meter show floor was arranged into six zones including Cashmere Yarn, Fancy Yarn, Chemical Fiber, Green Linen & Quality Wool Yarn, Cotton Yarn, and International Yarn, and also included Pakistan and India pavilions.

Hong Kong China-based Consulting Service International Ltd.’s Managing Director Karl Borgschulze presented several sustain-ability focused presentations.

One of the biggest exhibition stands housed man-made cellulose fiber producer Sateri (Fujian) Fibre Co. Ltd. The company is one of world’s largest producers of viscose fiber, which is often used in traditional textiles, wet wipes and hygiene products. With five mills in China, the company is reported to collectively produce approximately 1.8 million tons of viscose fiber annually.

Notably there were 90 exhibitors in the cotton zone of Yarn Expo, and exhibitors also included those show-casing new materials and high-performance fibers.

A major, consistent theme among exhibitors was “green” products, a focus on sustainability and a call out to circularity in the textile supply chain.

Looking Forward

In the face of turbulence in international trade, the current environment casts shade on what was a well-attended — based on both exhibitor and visitor numbers — triumvirate of textile exhibitions.

That said, if history informs us, Messe Frankfurt has more than weathered such storms in its past and regardless of the form the business landscape takes going forward, supporting the welfare of traveling merchants, providing a safe environment for business, and promoting trade will continue as it started more than 800 years ago.

As Wen stated, “With economic challenges and evolving industries to navigate, trade fairs will be as important as ever, and we look forward to facilitating good business in the years to come.”

2025 Quarterly Issue II

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