Manufacturing PMI® At 49.1%; January 2024 Manufacturing ISM® Report On Business®: Apparel, Leather & Allied Products And Textile Mills Report Growth

TEMPE, Ariz. — February 1, 2024 — Economic activity in the manufacturing sector contracted in January for the 15th consecutive month following one month of “unchanged” status (a PMI® reading of 50 percent) and 28 months of growth prior to that, say the nation’s supply executives in the latest Manufacturing ISM® Report On Business®.

The report was issued today by Timothy R. Fiore, CPSM, C.P.M., Chair of the Institute for Supply Management® (ISM®) Manufacturing Business Survey Committee:

“The Manufacturing PMI registered 49.1 percent in January, up 2 percentage points from the seasonally adjusted 47.1 percent recorded in December. The overall economy continued in expansion for the 45th month after one month of contraction in April 2020. (A Manufacturing PMI above 42.5 percent, over a period of time, generally indicates an expansion of the overall economy.) The New Orders Index moved into expansion territory at 52.5 percent, 5.5 percentage points higher than the seasonally adjusted figure of 47 percent recorded in December. The January reading of the Production Index (50.4 percent) is 0.5 percentage point higher than December’s seasonally adjusted figure of 49.9 percent. The Prices Index registered 52.9 percent, up 7.7 percentage points compared to the reading of 45.2 percent in December. The Backlog of Orders Index registered 44.7 percent, 0.6 percentage point lower than the 45.3 percent recorded in December. The Employment Index registered 47.1 percent, down 0.4 percentage point from December’s seasonally adjusted figure of 47.5 percent.

“The Supplier Deliveries Index figure of 49.1 percent is 2.1 percentage points higher than the 47 percent recorded in December. (Supplier Deliveries is the only ISM Report On Business® index that is inversed; a reading of above 50 percent indicates slower deliveries, which is typical as the economy improves and customer demand increases.)

“The Inventories Index increased 2.3 percentage points to 46.2 percent from December’s seasonally adjusted reading of 43.9 percent. The New Export Orders Index reading of 45.2 percent is 4.7 percentage points lower than December’s figure of 49.9 percent. The Imports Index moved into expansion territory, registering 50.1 percent, 3.7 percentage points higher than the 46.4 percent reported in December.”

Fiore continues, “The U.S. manufacturing sector continued to contract, though at a marginal rate compared to December. Demand improved, output remained stable and inputs are accommodative. Demand moderated, with the (1) New Orders Index expanding at a respectable rate, (2) New Export Orders Index in a headwind and (3) Backlog of Orders Index remaining above 40 percent but still in fairly strong contraction territory at 44.7 percent. Also, the Customers’ Inventories Index contracted further, becoming more accommodative for future production. On balance, Output (measured by the Production and Employment indexes) expanded slightly, with a combined 0.1-percentage point upward impact on the Manufacturing PMI® calculation. Panelists’ companies maintained production levels month over month and continued head count reductions in January, with significant layoff activity. Inputs — defined as supplier deliveries, inventories, prices and imports — continued to accommodate future demand growth but are showing signs of stiffening. The Supplier Deliveries Index indicated faster deliveries for the 16th straight month, and the Inventories Index moved upward while remaining in moderate contraction territory. The Prices Index climbed into expansion (or ‘increasing’) territory as new pricing levels for 2024 went into effect.

“Two of the six biggest manufacturing industries (Transportation Equipment; and Chemical Products) registered growth in January.

“Demand remains soft but shows signs of improvement, and production execution is stable compared to December, as panelists’ companies continue to manage outputs, material inputs and labor costs. Suppliers continue to have capacity. Sixty-two percent of manufacturing gross domestic product (GDP) contracted in January, down from 84 percent in December. More importantly, the share of sector GDP registering a composite PMI® calculation at or below 45 percent — a good barometer of overall manufacturing weakness — was 27 percent in January, compared to 48 percent in December, and 54 percent in November. Among the top six industries by contribution to manufacturing GDP in January, two (Machinery; and Computer & Electronic Products) had a PMI at or below 45 percent, one fewer than in the previous month,” Fiore said.

The four manufacturing industries reporting growth in January are: Apparel, Leather & Allied Products; Textile Mills; Transportation Equipment; and Chemical Products. The 13 industries reporting contraction in January — in the following order — are: Wood Products; Machinery; Plastics & Rubber Products; Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Furniture & Related Products; Computer & Electronic Products; Fabricated Metal Products; Petroleum & Coal Products; Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Paper Products; Miscellaneous Manufacturing; and Primary Metals.

What Respondents Are Saying

“The start of 2024 looks good. Sales are above expectations, and costs are mostly stable. A few commodities are up in cost due to supply shortages. Many previously short commodities market positions have corrected themselves. There is a real short-term increase in the cost of international freight.” [Chemical Products]

“The commercial vehicle market appears to be retracting a bit in 2024 compared to last year. Forecast sales have decreased slightly in most product segments, with only limited growth related to customers’ competitive sourcing and moves to new technology. Most supply chains, including for semiconductors, have stabilized, with the only major escalation now being transit through the Red Sea.” [Transportation Equipment]

“Business continues to stabilize. Cash flow will be tight in 2024.” [Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products]

“U.S. economic outlook is affecting customer orders, and the current backlog is quite low compared to past quarters. Waiting on potential improvements from the CHIPS and Science Act.” [Computer & Electronic Products]

“December sales were very strong but slower for the first part of January, as was expected. We expect to see steady sales going forward, if the (U.S. Federal Reserve) continues to hold rates and suggests a rate cut in the future.” [Machinery]

“Good start to the year. We had budgeted a 3.5-percent increase over 2023. We expect it to be a challenging year. Currently, orders are positive in our automotive OEM and automotive aftermarket business. Our industrial business sector is looking weak at the moment. Still expect to achieve budget forecasts through the first quarter. (We) feel January is running high for automotive because at the end of December, many OEMs cancelled the last few weeks of orders to reduce inventory levels.” [Fabricated Metal Products]

“Order backlog, which was at historically high levels, is diminishing due to supply chain improvements and slight slowdown of orders.” [Miscellaneous Manufacturing]

“Demand continues to be slow. Reduction from the second half of 2023 has continued into this year. We are adjusting production to match demand.” [Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components]

“Current industry conditions are positive; however, a note of caution as we see potential headwinds with downward price movements in the coming months.” [Primary Metals]

“Remarkable slowdown in business in December. January has picked up, but not to previous-year levels.” [Textile Mills]

MANUFACTURING AT A GLANCE
January 2024
Index Series
IndexJan		 Series
IndexDec		 Percentage

Point

Change

 Direction Rate of
Change		 Trend*
(Months)
Manufacturing PMI® 49.1 47.1 +2.0 Contracting Slower 15
New Orders 52.5 47.0 +5.5 Growing From
Contracting		 1
Production 50.4 49.9 +0.5 Growing From
Contracting		 1
Employment 47.1 47.5 -0.4 Contracting Faster 4
Supplier Deliveries 49.1 47.0 +2.1 Faster Slower 16
Inventories 46.2 43.9 +2.3 Contracting Slower 12
Customers’ Inventories 43.7 48.1 -4.4 Too Low Faster 2
Prices 52.9 45.2 +7.7 Increasing From
Decreasing		 1
Backlog of Orders 44.7 45.3 -0.6 Contracting Faster 16
New Export Orders 45.2 49.9 -4.7 Contracting Faster 8
Imports 50.1 46.4 +3.7 Growing From
Contracting		 1
OVERALL ECONOMY Growing Faster 45
Manufacturing Sector Contracting Slower 15

Manufacturing ISM® Report On Business® data is seasonally adjusted for the New Orders, Production, Employment and Inventories indexes.
*Number of months moving in current direction.
Indexes reflect newly released seasonal adjustment factors.

Commodities Reported Up/Down In Price And In Short Supply

Commodities Up in Price
Aluminum* (2); Labor — Temporary (5); Ocean Freight; Plastic Resins; Polypropylene (4); Steel (7); Steel — Carbon; Steel — Hot Rolled (3); Steel Products (2); and Steel Wire.

Commodities Down in Price
Aluminum* (8); Corrugated Boxes (6); Diesel (3); Natural Gas (2); Packaging Materials (2); and Steel — Stainless.

Commodities in Short Supply
Electrical Components (40); Electronic Components (38); and Steel — Alloy.

Note: The number of consecutive months the commodity is listed is indicated after each item.
*Indicates both up and down in price.

January 2024 Manufacturing Index Summaries

Manufacturing PMI®
The U.S. manufacturing sector contracted in January, as the Manufacturing PMI registered 49.1 percent in January, up 2 percentage points compared to December’s seasonally adjusted reading of 47.1 percent. This is the highest reading since October 2022, when the PMI registered a seasonally adjusted 50 percent. “This is the 15th month of contraction. Three out of five subindexes that directly factor into the Manufacturing PMI are in contraction territory, down from four in December. The New Orders Index broke its 16-month streak in contraction territory by indicating expansion in January. Of the six biggest manufacturing industries, two (Transportation Equipment; and Chemical Products) registered growth in January,” Fiore said. A reading above 50 percent indicates that the manufacturing sector is generally expanding; below 50 percent indicates that it is generally contracting.

A Manufacturing PMI above 42.5 percent, over a period of time, generally indicates an expansion of the overall economy. Therefore, the January Manufacturing PMI indicates the overall economy grew for the 45th straight month after one month of contraction (April 2020). “The past relationship between the Manufacturing PMI and the overall economy indicates that the January reading (49.1 percent) corresponds to a change of plus-1.9 percent in real gross domestic product (GDP) on an annualized basis,” Fiore said.

The Last 12 Months

Month Manufacturing
PMI®		 Month Manufacturing
PMI®
Jan 2024 49.1 Jul 2023 46.5
Dec 2023 47.1 Jun 2023 46.4
Nov 2023 46.6 May 2023 46.6
Oct 2023 46.9 Apr 2023 47.0
Sep 2023 48.6 Mar 2023 46.5
Aug 2023 47.6 Feb 2023 47.7
Average for 12 months – 47.2

High – 49.1

Low – 46.4

 

New Orders
ISM’s New Orders Index expanded for just the second time in 20 months in January, registering 52.5 percent, an increase of 5.5 percentage points compared to December’s seasonally adjusted reading of 47 percent. The New Orders Index contracted in July 2022, registered a seasonally adjusted 50.1 percent in August 2022 and had been in contraction since September 2022. “Of the six largest manufacturing sectors, three (Chemical Products; Transportation Equipment; and Fabricated Metal Products) reported increased new orders. The index in January recorded its best performance since May 2022 (55.3 percent),” Fiore said. A New Orders Index above 52.3 percent, over time, is generally consistent with an increase in the Census Bureau’s series on manufacturing orders (in constant 2000 dollars).

The five manufacturing industries that reported growth in new orders in January are: Apparel, Leather & Allied Products; Primary Metals; Chemical Products; Transportation Equipment; and Fabricated Metal Products. The 10 industries reporting a decline in new orders in January, in order, are: Wood Products; Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Furniture & Related Products; Machinery; Plastics & Rubber Products; Petroleum & Coal Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Miscellaneous Manufacturing; Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; and Computer & Electronic Products.

New Orders %Higher %Same %Lower Net Index
Jan 2024 20.2 56.3 23.5 -3.3 52.5
Dec 2023 15.5 57.5 27.0 -11.5 47.0
Nov 2023 19.5 53.0 27.5 -8.0 47.8
Oct 2023 15.4 58.1 26.5 -11.1 46.2

 

Production
The Production Index moved back into expansion territory in January, registering 50.4 percent, 0.5 percentage point higher than the seasonally adjusted December reading of 49.9 percent. The Production Index has been in contraction in 10 of the last 14 months; in addition to this month, the index registered 50 percent or better in May, September and October 2023. “Panelists’ companies essentially maintained the levels of output from December and November and now have an opportunity to increase production, based on the ‘too low’ reading for the Customers’ Inventories Index,” says Fiore. An index above 52.2 percent, over time, is generally consistent with an increase in the Federal Reserve Board’s Industrial Production figures.

The four industries reporting growth in production during the month of January are: Apparel, Leather & Allied Products; Paper Products; Primary Metals; and Transportation Equipment. The 11 industries reporting a decrease in production in January — in the following order — are: Wood Products; Petroleum & Coal Products; Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Textile Mills; Plastics & Rubber Products; Machinery; Furniture & Related Products; Fabricated Metal Products; Computer & Electronic Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; and Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products.

Production %Higher %Same %Lower Net Index
Jan 2024 18.4 57.8 23.8 -5.4 50.4
Dec 2023 15.5 61.5 23.0 -7.5 49.9
Nov 2023 18.4 62.1 19.5 -1.1 48.8
Oct 2023 17.3 62.9 19.8 -2.5 50.0

 

Employment
ISM®’s Employment Index registered 47.1 percent in January, 0.4 percentage point lower than the seasonally adjusted December reading of 47.5 percent. “The index indicated employment contracted for the fourth month in a row (and at a faster rate in January) after one month of expansion and three months of contraction before that. Of the six big manufacturing sectors, only Transportation Equipment expanded. Labor management sentiment at Business Survey Committee respondents’ companies still indicates a slowdown in hiring and, in January, a continuation of staff-reduction activity. Attrition, freezes and layoffs were used to reduce head counts. Quits rates remained at 12-month lows. The majority of panelists’ comments indicated labor force reductions; in the previous two months, they were equally split between companies hiring and others reducing their labor forces,” says Fiore. An Employment Index above 50.3 percent, over time, is generally consistent with an increase in the Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS) data on manufacturing employment.

Of 18 manufacturing industries, three reported employment growth in January: Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Petroleum & Coal Products; and Transportation Equipment. The nine industries reporting a decrease in employment in January, in the following order, are: Paper Products; Plastics & Rubber Products; Primary Metals; Fabricated Metal Products; Machinery; Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; Chemical Products; Computer & Electronic Products; and Miscellaneous Manufacturing. Six industries reported no change in employment in January compared to December.

Employment %Higher %Same %Lower Net Index
Jan 2024 11.0 70.6 18.4 -7.4 47.1
Dec 2023 11.7 70.3 18.0 -6.3 47.5
Nov 2023 9.3 71.3 19.4 -10.1 46.1
Oct 2023 11.7 70.9 17.4 -5.7 47.1

 

Supplier Deliveries†
Delivery performance of suppliers to manufacturing organizations was faster for the 16th straight month in January, as the Supplier Deliveries Index registered 49.1 percent, 2.1 percentage points higher than the 47 percent reported in December. After a reading of 52.4 percent in September 2022, the index went into contraction territory in October and has been there since, with an average reading of 46.2 percent over the last 12 months, up from a rolling 12-month average of 46 percent in December. “Panelists’ comments continue to indicate that suppliers’ performance is improving, but for most industries, delivery promises appear to be stable as inputs transition to a more demand-driven environment,” says Fiore. A reading below 50 percent indicates faster deliveries, while a reading above 50 percent indicates slower deliveries.

The five manufacturing industries reporting slower supplier deliveries in January are: Textile Mills; Paper Products; Plastics & Rubber Products; Miscellaneous Manufacturing; and Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products. The five industries reporting faster supplier deliveries in January are: Computer & Electronic Products; Transportation Equipment; Fabricated Metal Products; Machinery; and Chemical Products. Seven industries reported no change in delivery performance in January compared to December.

 

Supplier Deliveries

  

%Slower

  

%Same

  

%Faster

  

Net

  

Index
Jan 2024 9.7 78.7 11.6 -1.9 49.1
Dec 2023 5.2 83.5 11.3 -6.1 47.0
Nov 2023 6.3 79.7 14.0 -7.7 46.2
Oct 2023 9.8 75.7 14.5 -4.7 47.7

 

Inventories
The Inventories Index registered 46.2 percent in January, 2.3 percentage points higher than the seasonally adjusted 43.9 percent reported in December. “Manufacturing inventories contracted at a slower rate compared to the previous month. Of the six big industries, only Transportation Equipment increased manufacturing inventories in January. Overall, panelists’ companies continue to closely watch manufacturing inventory levels but showed signs, as the year began, of a willingness to invest in manufacturing inventory in order to improve on-time deliveries, gain precision in revenue projections and improve overall customer satisfaction,” says Fiore. An Inventories Index greater than 44.4 percent, over time, is generally consistent with expansion in the Bureau of Economic Analysis (BEA) figures on overall manufacturing inventories (in chained 2000 dollars).

Of 18 manufacturing industries, three reported higher inventories in January: Apparel, Leather & Allied Products; Printing & Related Support Activities; and Transportation Equipment. The nine industries reporting lower inventories in January — in the following order — are: Paper Products; Computer & Electronic Products; Plastics & Rubber Products; Machinery; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Primary Metals; Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; Fabricated Metal Products; and Chemical Products. Six industries reported no change in raw materials inventories in January compared to December.

Inventories %Higher %Same %Lower Net Index
Jan 2024 14.0 63.8 22.2 -8.2 46.2
Dec 2023 11.1 62.8 26.1 -15.0 43.9
Nov 2023 13.8 59.7 26.5 -12.7 44.3
Oct 2023 12.6 63.8 23.6 -11.0 43.6

 

Customers’ Inventories†
ISM®’s Customers’ Inventories Index registered 43.7 percent in January, down 4.4 percentage points compared to the 48.1 percent reported in December. “Customers’ inventory levels sagged, moving into the ‘too low’ region, as panelists report their companies’ customers have a significant shortage of their products in inventory, which is considered positive for future new orders and production. The index registered its lowest level since October 2022, when it recorded 41.6 percent,” says Fiore.

The two industries reporting customers’ inventories as too high in January are: Fabricated Metal Products; and Plastics & Rubber Products. The 11 industries reporting customers’ inventories as too low in January, in order, are: Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Paper Products; Primary Metals; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Wood Products; Furniture & Related Products; Machinery; Miscellaneous Manufacturing; Chemical Products; Transportation Equipment; and Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products.

Customers’
Inventories		 %
Reporting		 %Too
High		 %About
Right		 %Too
Low		  

Net

  

Index
Jan 2024 75 10.2 66.9 22.9 -12.7 43.7
Dec 2023 79 13.5 69.2 17.3 -3.8 48.1
Nov 2023 76 16.3 69.0 14.7 +1.6 50.8
Oct 2023 75 13.1 71.0 15.9 -2.8 48.6

 

Prices†
The ISM® Prices Index registered 52.9 percent, 7.7 percentage points higher compared to the December reading of 45.2 percent, indicating raw materials prices increased in January after eight consecutive months of decreases. Of the six largest manufacturing industries, three — Fabricated Metal Products; Transportation Equipment; and Machinery — reported price increases in January. “The Prices Index indicated expansion in the first month of 2024 as new pricing agreements get implemented at panelists’ companies. The index reached its highest level since April 2023 (53.2 percent). Twenty percent of companies reported higher prices, compared to 14 percent in December,” says Fiore. A Prices Index above 52.8 percent, over time, is generally consistent with an increase in the Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS) Producer Price Index for Intermediate Materials.

In January, the 10 industries that reported paying increased prices for raw materials, in order, are: Printing & Related Support Activities; Textile Mills; Fabricated Metal Products; Furniture & Related Products; Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Miscellaneous Manufacturing; Transportation Equipment; Plastics & Rubber Products; and Machinery. The three industries reporting paying decreased prices for raw materials in January are: Primary Metals; Chemical Products; and Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products.

 

Prices

 %Higher %Same %Lower Net Index
Jan 2024 19.5 66.7 13.8 +5.7 52.9
Dec 2023 14.2 61.9 23.9 -9.7 45.2
Nov 2023 16.0 67.7 16.3 -0.3 49.9
Oct 2023 11.0 68.1 20.9 -9.9 45.1

 

Backlog of Orders†
ISM®’s Backlog of Orders Index registered 44.7 percent, a 0.6-percentage point decrease compared to December’s reading of 45.3 percent, indicating order backlogs contracted for the 16th consecutive month after a 27-month period of expansion. Of the six largest manufacturing industries, only Transportation Equipment expanded order backlogs in January. “The index remains in contraction, as production rates and new order levels continue to have a negative effect on backlogs,” says Fiore.

Of 18 manufacturing industries, the two that are reporting growth in order backlogs in January are: Primary Metals; and Transportation Equipment. The nine industries reporting lower backlogs in January — in the following order — are: Wood Products; Furniture & Related Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Machinery; Computer & Electronic Products; Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; Fabricated Metal Products; Chemical Products; and Miscellaneous Manufacturing. Six industries reported no change in backlog of orders in January compared to December.

Backlog of
Orders		 %
Reporting		  

%Higher

  

%Same

  

%Lower

  

Net

  

Index
Jan 2024 91 17.5 54.4 28.1 -10.6 44.7
Dec 2023 89 16.7 57.1 26.2 -9.5 45.3
Nov 2023 91 9.3 60.0 30.7 -21.4 39.3
Oct 2023 92 15.2 54.0 30.8 -15.6 42.2

 

New Export Orders†
ISM®’s New Export Orders Index registered 45.2 percent in January, 4.7 percentage points lower than the December reading of 49.9 percent. “The New Export Orders Index indicated that export orders contracted for the eighth consecutive month, at a much faster rate in January. The index has shown weak performance for the last 18 months. Panelists returned to a more bearish perception for both China and Europe. The index registered its lowest level since May 2020 (39.5 percent),” says Fiore.

The three industries reporting growth in new export orders in January are: Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Miscellaneous Manufacturing; and Transportation Equipment. The nine industries reporting a decrease in new export orders in January — in the following order — are: Paper Products; Furniture & Related Products; Computer & Electronic Products; Plastics & Rubber Products; Machinery; Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Chemical Products; and Fabricated Metal Products.

New Export
Orders		 %
Reporting		  

%Higher

  

%Same

  

%Lower

  

Net

  

Index
Jan 2024 73 8.4 73.5 18.1 -9.7 45.2
Dec 2023 73 10.2 79.4 10.4 -0.2 49.9
Nov 2023 71 7.7 76.6 15.7 -8.0 46.0
Oct 2023 72 12.3 74.1 13.6 -1.3 49.4

 

Imports†
ISM®’s Imports Index registered 50.1 percent in January, an increase of 3.7 percentage points compared to December’s figure of 46.4 percent. “Imports grew in January after contracting for 14 consecutive months. With the Lunar New Year starting in early February, there should be a continued expansion in the Imports Index, assuming no other external factors. Panelists noted rising ocean freight costs and extended trans-Suez lead times to account for risk in the area,” says Fiore.

The six industries reporting an increase in import volumes in January — listed in the following order — are: Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Fabricated Metal Products; Miscellaneous Manufacturing; and Transportation Equipment. The five industries that reported lower volumes of imports in January are: Wood Products; Paper Products; Plastics & Rubber Products; Computer & Electronic Products; and Chemical Products. Seven industries reported no change in imports in January.

Imports %
Reporting		  

%Higher

  

%Same

  

%Lower

  

Net

  

Index
Jan 2024 83 11.9 76.3 11.8 +0.1 50.1
Dec 2023 82 7.3 78.1 14.6 -7.3 46.4
Nov 2023 83 8.2 76.0 15.8 -7.6 46.2
Oct 2023 81 7.1 81.5 11.4 -4.3 47.9

†The Supplier Deliveries, Customers’ Inventories, Prices, Backlog of Orders, New Export Orders, and Imports indexes do not meet the accepted criteria for seasonal adjustments.

Buying Policy
The average commitment lead time for Capital Expenditures in January was 172 days, a decrease of two days compared to December. Average lead time in January for Production Materials was 83 days, an increase of one day. Average lead time for Maintenance, Repair and Operating (MRO) Supplies was 43 days, a decrease of three days compared to December.

Percent Reporting
Capital
Expenditures		 Hand-to-
Mouth		 30 Days 60 Days 90 Days 6 Months 1 Year+ Average
Days
Jan 2024 16 5 9 13 29 28 172
Dec 2023 15 4 8 16 29 28 174
Nov 2023 14 3 9 14 32 28 178
Oct 2023 16 3 10 13 32 26 171
Percent Reporting
Production
Materials		 Hand-to-
Mouth		 30 Days 60 Days 90 Days 6 Months 1 Year+ Average
Days
Jan 2024 8 23 30 24 10 5 83
Dec 2023 6 27 28 25 9 5 82
Nov 2023 8 24 29 26 9 4 79
Oct 2023 7 24 27 26 12 4 83

 

Percent Reporting
MRO
Supplies		 Hand-to-
Mouth		 30 Days 60 Days 90 Days 6 Months 1 Year+ Average
Days
Jan 2024 29 37 16 13 5 0 43
Dec 2023 29 36 18 11 5 1 46
Nov 2023 29 35 21 10 5 0 43
Oct 2023 29 33 21 11 5 1 46

Posted: February 1, 2024

Source: Institute for Supply Management

Innovative Collaborations And Global Trends Take Center Stage At Texworld NYC And Apparel Sourcing NYC

WANCHAI, Hong Kong — January 31, 2024 — The East Coast’s premier textile sourcing event recently concluded its highly anticipated Winter 2024 edition with overwhelming success marked by global participation, diverse special features, and valuable partnerships. The co-located event, featuring Texworld New York City, Apparel Sourcing New York City, and Printsource New York, took place January 22-24 at the Javits Center, welcoming 350+ exhibitors and thousands of attendees.

A Global Affair

A one-stop-shop for global sourcing, the event offered fabrics, trims, accessories, garments, print design, and more across 50+ product categories with participation from countries including Korea, Turkey, Taiwan, Peru, China, Japan, USA, India, Pakistan, and more.

Texworld NYC proudly showcased the Turkey Pavilion, emphasizing the rich heritage and cutting-edge manufacturing practices of Turkey in the international textile market.

Addressing the growing need for domestic suppliers, Texworld NYC announced a new partnership with SEAMS, the foremost Association and Voice of the U.S. Sewn Products Industry. Attendees were able to source, connect, and learn from USA-based exhibitors inside the SEAMS Supply Chain USA Pavilion. The collaboration with SEAMS brought an additional layer of expertise and industry wisdom to the event.

Diverse Special Features

In addition to sourcing, the show highlighted an array of special features that captivated attendees, reinforcing the industry’s commitment to innovation, sustainability, and fostering global connections. Texworld NYC and Apparel Sourcing NYC continued its commitment to education by offering tailored sessions on global textile trends, sourcing landscape, business development, and more. Attendees engaged in meaningful discussions, fostered valuable connections, and gained insights from industry experts through a series of informative sessions during Textile Talks and the Lenzing Seminar Series.

The Texworld Trend Showcase, curated by DONEGER | TOBE, provided insights into Spring/Summer 2025 themes. Attendees explored the curated segments through the Explore the Floor Tour led by Creative Director, Kai Chow. Expanding the trend resources and educational aspect, Texworld NYC collaborated with Arsutoria, the prestigious Milan-based institution renowned for its contributions to footwear and leather goods education. The trend area featured over 200 material samples, showcasing the intersection of tradition and innovation in the fashion industry.

Another notable highlight of this winter’s event was the collaborative initiative with the Material Innovation Initiative (MII). The Next-Gen Innovation Hub specialty area provided buyers with insights into innovative, high-performing, and sustainable fiber and material alternatives, setting the stage for a more sustainable future in the textile industry.

Building on the success of the Next-Gen Innovation Hub and collaborations with sustainability-focused organizations such as Lenzing, Texworld NYC is committed to advancing sustainable practices in the industry. Look out for initiatives that promote eco-friendly materials, circular fashion, and responsible manufacturing at future events including the implementation of Econogy. (Learn more here: https://texpertisenetwork.messefrankfurt.com/frankfurt/en/sdg.html#econogy )

A vibrant addition to the show floor, the SAKURA COLLECTION Fashion Design Award Fashion Show showcased inspiring designs from 10 finalist designers from all over the world using the theme materials of “Natsu-Shiozawa” and “Upcycled Denim”. The SAKURA COLLECTION Fashion Design Award aims to connect Japan’s traditional industry with young creators from around the world to generate new ideas for the future. Attendees were immersed in a world of creativity and traditional Japanese culture.

Printsource New York Partnership

Printsource, a well-known beacon of creativity in the textile design realm, once again illuminated the show floor with its unparalleled showcase of innovative textile designs. Designers, buyers, and industry professionals were treated to a dynamic display, experiencing firsthand the cutting-edge prints, patterns, and surface design inspirations that have become synonymous with Printsource’s expertise. Printsource’s contribution to the event has not only enriched the overall experience for attendees but has also inspired the industry to explore new avenues of creativity.

As Texworld NYC and Apparel Sourcing NYC look ahead to future editions, we are excited about a continued partnership with Printsource. “I am truly grateful for the invaluable contribution of Printsource New York to our shows. As we collectively navigate the evolving landscape of the industry, we look forward to more events together, where we can continue to foster creativity, innovation, and lasting connections,” states Jennifer Bacon, VP Fashion and Apparel, Messe Frankfurt Inc

Looking Ahead: Future Events

Texworld NYC and Apparel Sourcing NYC are pioneers in the pursuit of progress. Beyond celebrating our recent success, we are enthusiastic about steering the industry toward continuous growth, fostering innovation, and expanding our global influence.

Save the dates for our other 2024 events:

  • Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing NYC, Home Textiles Sourcing: Summer 2024 Edition – July 16-18, Javits Center, New York City
  • Texworld Los Angeles, Apparel Sourcing Los Angeles: August 13-14, California Market Center

For more information on our events, visit us online at:
www.texworldnyc.com

Posted: February 1, 2024

Source: Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd.

 

Lenzing Teams Up With Recyc Leather And GANNI To Unveil New Footwear Materials

LENZING, Austria — February 1, 2024 — Lenzing Group, a leading global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, has partnered with leather alternative expert Recyc Leather to introduce Pélinova®, an innovative material that fuses TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers and recycled leather fibers for high-end fashion applications. Joining forces with Danish advanced contemporary brand GANNI, this dynamic trio is set to bring this next-generation material to the market as an alternative to genuine leather materials, starting with GANNI’s Slouchy Boots launching early this year.

Pélinova: a hybrid alternative combining TENCEL Lyocell fibers and recycled leather fibers 
Recyc Leather’s next-generation material, Pélinova, is created through a unique, transparent process which involves collecting pre-consumer recycled leather and then hydro-jetting the leather fibers into the TENCEL Lyocell fibers, a standout material within the TENCEL brand portfolio that is produced from a resource-saving, closed-loop production process1. TENCEL Lyocell fibers are also unfavorable to odor-causing bacteria. The combined efforts between Lenzing and Recyc Leather result in a material which is supple, flexible, and durable, with a low environmental impact utilizing 70-percent less water than traditional methods and reducing CO2 emissions.

“Since our establishment in 2017, we have recycled 100 tons of leather from landfill, earning recognition from European authorities and positive responses from brands”, said Olivier Grammont, Co-founder of Recyc Leather.

Olivier Grammont, Co-founder of Recyc Leather

“Our partnership with Lenzing and GANNI demonstrates Pélinova’s potential as a truly sustainable alternative to traditional leather, inspiring us to continue to broaden the application of Pélinova in shaping the future of the leather industry.”

“The pioneering partnership between TENCEL and like-minded companies like Recyc Leather and GANNI is a catalyst to unlocking the power of planet-conscious fabric innovation,” said Florian Heubrandner, executive vice president Global Textiles Business, Lenzing AG.

Florian Heubrandner

“With the use of responsibly produced2 TENCEL Lyocell fibers in Pélinova, we are not only creating a unique alternative for leather applications in footwear that brings long-lasting comfort, but also demonstrating the versatility of fiber applications. We are confident that the new collection will stand out within the industry and catch the eye of consumers.”

Riding on this exciting breakthrough in footwear, Recyc Leather is also exploring the possibility of expanding the fabric application to other leather goods spanning home textiles, furniture, automobile interiors and the luxury segment.

Elevating the GANNI partnership

GANNI is a B Corp certified company, on a journey to become the most responsible version of itself. They believe it’s a moral obligation to do better every day. GANNI is committed to minimizing social and environmental impact within its business operation with a goal to reach 50 percent absolute carbon reduction by 2027, with materials and innovation among its key pillars in reaching this target.

Lauren Bartley, Chief Sustainability Officer at GANNI

“By the end of 2023, we achieved the ambitious goal of phasing out all virgin leather from upcoming collections – making this year our first without producing any virgin leather across both ready-to-wear and accessories collections,” said Lauren Bartley, chief sustainability officer at GANNI. “However, the work doesn’t stop here. Collaborating and experimenting with partners like TENCEL and Recyc Leather on new fabric innovations to develop alternatives to materials as we know them today, is crucial to reaching ambitious carbon reduction goals like GANNI’s. GANNI has partnered with Lenzing for years gone by, using various of their materials in GANNI fabrications. Lenzing continues to be among the perfect partner when it comes to finding preferred materials which have a proven lower environmental impact.”

In addition to footwear, GANNI sees the application of Recyc Leather’s Pélinova with TENCEL Lyocell fibers in the accessories category. GANNI, Recyc Leather, and Lenzing have future developments in the pipeline to get even closer to being able to scale the use of the material.

During Première Vision Paris (PV Paris, February 6–8), Lenzing will be joined by Recyc Leather and GANNI at a panel discussion to share their collaborative experiences as a prime example of how companies can unite to create high-end fashion using responsibly produced recycled materials. For more interactive participation, visit the TENCEL brand at Booth 6D67 and Recyc Leather at Booth 6HUB11.

1 Savings consider solvent recovery.

2 The responsible production of TENCELTM Lyocell and Modal fibers uses at least 50% less water and emits at least 50% less CO2 compared to generic lyocell and modal fibers, according to Higg MSI, thereby saving precious resources for future generations. ^Results based on LCA standards (ISO 14040/44) and available via Higg MSI (Version 3.7).

Posted: February 1, 2024

Source: The Lenzing Group

DOMOTEX 2024 Served As A Popular Meeting Place For Exhibitors And Attendees

HANNOVER, Germany — February 1, 2024 — For the second time, the keynote theme FLOORED BY NATURE focused on the megatrend of sustainability, including various aspects such as recycling, resource conservation and environmental protection.

DOMOTEX 2024, Eröffnung, Night Time in a Palace

Natural and sustainable Floor Coverings

In the Flooring segment, the range of products offered by exhibitors was characterised in particular by sustainable and environmentally friendly solutions. With ‘LICO DENIM FLOOR’, the Swiss company Li & Co presented a unique solution using waste from the fashion industry. In addition to jeans, the product is made from other recyclable materials, including a wood-based core board and an underlay of the rapidly renewable material cork. Amorim, GRANORTE and ZIRO have specialized in flooring made from this environmentally friendly material. Natural cork floors have a number of positive characteristics: they are soft and resilient, yet extremely durable. In addition, they have an insulating effect, reduce sound transmission and temperature fluctuations, and improve the indoor climate at the same time. This makes cork flooring the ideal basis for a comfortable home.

Vinyl and design floor coverings are very popular. However, the PVC (polyvinyl chloride) often used to make them has been criticized for containing harmful plasticizers that have a negative impact on our environment and health. In line with its ‘we care / we act’ motto, Gerflor showcased sustainable vinyl and linoleum products at DOMOTEX and highlighted its “Second Life” recycling program. CFL Flooring introduced two new attractive alternatives to less sustainable oil-based products: ‘NovoCore’ and ‘Tenacity Eco-Composite Flooring’. ‘NovoCore’ is an engineered vinyl flooring that is waterproof, extremely durable, resistant to heat and sunlight and recyclable. It is also completely free of phthalates and other harmful plasticizers. ‘Tenacity Eco-Composite Flooring’ is a PVC-free engineered stone floor with a high proportion of recycled and natural materials. Classen presented another convincing solution, called ‘CERAMIN’: Instead of PVC, the manufacturer uses a unique combination of a natural mineral and polypropylene (PP), which is completely harmless and is mainly used in the food packaging industry.

Inspired by Nature

It is not only in terms of properties that naturalness plays an important role. With wood and stone finishes, many exhibitors also favored a natural look in their collections this year. SWISS KRONO, for example, has expanded its ‘COREPEL EVOLUTION’ line with the new ‘COREPEL EVOLUTION PURE’ collection, which combines a real wood surface with a waterproof core and impresses with its natural look. In terms of appearance, the manufacturer’s focuses on stone and wood decors that are almost indistinguishable from the real materials in terms of look and feel. Kronospan also uses real wood veneer as the top layer for its ‘Organic Veneer Parquet’. The high-quality brushed oak surface creates a particularly cozy atmosphere. Another highlight presented by the manufacturer was the ‘MO.RE!’ laminate flooring with moisture resistance technology.

KAINDL presented a real eye-catcher with the ‘Natural Touch’ decors from the ‘Select’ product line. New to the range is the elegant ‘Milano Oak’ decor with a perfectly coordinated surface and a dynamic look. The slightly rustic ‘Alta’ collection from Lamett features a rich wood texture and a subtle color scheme. Belgian brand Floorify focuses on the look and feel of natural wood planks and polished concrete tiles for its ‘Rigid Vinyl Planks & Tiles’. Meanwhile, Green-Flor’s new ‘PRIME INSPIRATION’ collection is inspired by slate, and mFLOR too favors natural designs for its PVC flooring.

Innovations for Walls

Wall coverings are experiencing a revival and are finding their way into more and more living and working spaces. They are not only a modern design element, but also actively contribute to a feel-good atmosphere by improving room acoustics. With ‘Acoustic Sense WOOD’, the German company MeisterWerke has added three new real wood surfaces to its range of acoustic panels. The combination of natural wood and high-quality felt is said to absorb up to 100% of sound. Neuhofer’s ‘FN Acustico HEXAGO’ – hexagonal acoustic elements – are also made of (polyester) felt. They can be used to decorate a wall or to create individual accents. LICO Hydro HeatWall’ wall panels from Li & Co. offer not only acoustic effectiveness and modern aesthetics, but also warming properties. Equipped with a special conductive heating layer on the back, the panels provide warmth and comfort almost at the touch of a button.

In addition to wall coverings, the new RETAILERS’ PARK in Hall 19/20 was the right place to discover products for interior finishing. These included paints and varnishes from Südwest, Meffert and PPG Coating, and wallpapers from AS Creation and Erfurt & Sohn. Subfloors and related products such as skirting and adhesives were also well represented by exhibitors such as THOMSIT, Südbrock, Bostik and Döllken. Carpet manufacturers such as Lano, Edel Carpets, Infloor Girloon and Vorwerk completed the product range in the RETAILERS’ PARK. ‘Together with DECOR UNION and MEGA, we have created an area full of value for our visitors’, said Sonia Wedell-Castellano, Global Director of DOMOTEX. The new area was particularly well received by representatives from the retail, trade and architectural sectors. ‘The successful premiere shows that our target groups welcome the opportunity to see all the solutions for a room, from floor to ceiling, at a single trade fair. That’s why we will continue to expand the exhibition area for wall and ceiling products in the future.’

FLOORED BY NATURE generates strong Feedback in the Carpet Segment

Sustainability and environmental responsibility are playing an increasingly important role for exhibitors in the Carpets & Rugs segment, which combines handmade and machine-made carpets. Handmade carpets, such as those on display at DOMOTEX, are not only unique works of art but environmentally friendly by their nature. The use of renewable and natural materials, combined with their durability, makes handmade carpets a sustainable component of home and contract furnishings. Made from high quality sheep’s wool or blended with fine silk, they provide thermal insulation and temperature equalization, absorb dust and pollen from the air, are pleasantly soft to the touch and create a special atmosphere in a room. In addition to these qualities, manufacturers such as Jaipur Rugs, Paulig and Theo Keller are socially committed to fair trade and the elimination of child labor.

With ‘RECYCLE’, Merinos presented a collection created from 100% recycled polyester, which was spun into high-quality yarn from 9,500 tons of waste material after it was recycled in the in-house processing facility. Oriental Weavers from Egypt presented ‘Elixir’, a new innovative cotton carpet collection characterized by the use of natural dyes. For the Elixir collection, the company uses only natural dyes extracted from plants and fruits. The colors are therefore not only environmentally friendly, biodegradable and renewable, but also completely non-toxic for both humans and the environment.

A Splash of Color

In addition to natural shades and textures, DOMOTEX 2024 featured many carpets and rugs in intense colors, including Tisca, Brink & Campman and Jaipur Rugs. Trend experts such as Holly Becker (decor8), Stefan Nilsson (Trendstefan) and Gabriela Kaiser (TRENDagentur Gabriela Kaiser) see this development as a counterpoint to the minimalist interior trends in natural colour palettes that have dominated the furnishing industry in recent years. Other factors contributing to this developing trend are the ‘mood-lifting’ properties and the ‘desire for change’ in economically challenging times. ‘This is the year of change – we are looking for things that are different, fun and light-hearted. Bold colours are coming back’, explained Stefan Nilsson.

An imaginative journey into the world of Persian knotting awaited visitors at the exhibition Night Time in a Palace by carpet artist Lila Valadan. The label reinterprets traditional designs and techniques while at the same time referring to their roots. The skilfully handmade carpets were presented in a series of interlocking rooms. Each of the room installations offered a fascinating interplay of art, design and the cultural richness of traditional carpet making.

New interpretations and innovative developments such as these are already arousing curiosity as to next year’s DOMOTEX – Carpets & Rugs, which will take place from 16 to 19 January 2025.

Posted: February 1, 2024

Source: Deutsche Messe AG

 

Freudenberg To Showcase Innovative Surface Veils, Flow Media And Spacers At JEC World 2024 In Paris

WEINHEIM, Germany— February 1, 2024 — Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will exhibit a wide range of technical textile solutions for the composites industry at JEC World, the leading international composites show, in Paris, France. This includes surfacing veils for fiber-reinforced plastic (FRP) components and Enka® Solutions flow media and spacers for composites manufacturing. Visitors can meet Freudenberg experts at booth P82.4 of the Baden-Württemberg International booth in Hall 6 from March 5-7, 2024.

Freudenberg´s glass fiber surfacing veil Source: ©Freudenberg Performance Materials

Freudenberg addresses the evolving requirements of manufacturers of FRP parts with high-performance nonwovens. To achieve this, the leading supplier of innovative technical textiles uses a variety of technologies such as wetlaid, drylaid and spunbond processes, which enables a wide range of options for the choice of fibers, filaments and compositions. Freudenberg offers a comprehensive portfolio of nonwovens, including glass, PAN, and PET. These materials are specifically engineered for applications such as anti-corrosive coatings in piping and tank construction, UV-resistant facade panels, and various other end products. Surface veils are a crucial component of FRP components, ensuring abrasion resistance, corrosion protection, smooth surfaces, and enhanced mechanical strength. Freudenberg’s nonwoven solutions deliver exceptional performance across all these aspects, making them an ideal choice for a wide range of FRP applications.

High-efficiency flow media and spacers for composites manufacturing Enka® Solutions products are designed for efficient resin infusion and foam injection molding processes. Thanks to their distinctive 3D entangled polymeric filament structures they are exceptionally well-suited as flow media and spacers in composites manufacturing processes.

Enka® Solutions flow media for vacuum-assisted resin transfer molding (VARTM) and resin transfer molding (RTM) processes promote extremely fast and reliable resin distribution ensuring full wet-out of the internal structure, whilst keeping the glass fiber reinforcement nettings and components surface in place. A superior bond, enhanced mechanical properties and even a reduced risk of wrinkling is then achieved.

The Enka® Solutions spacer applied in reaction injection molding processes using foam pushes the reinforcement matting and composite skin against the mold. This allows polymer foam to flow freely through the mold, filling the cavity completely and resulting in faster production processes that ensure reproducible high-quality finished products.

Posted: February 1, 2024

Source: Freudenberg Performance Materials Holding SE & Co. KG

Exhibit Space For IDEA®25 Is Selling Fast

CARY, NC — February 1, 2024 — INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced that exhibit space reservations for IDEA®25 are rapidly approaching 70 percent capacity. INDA encourages all potential exhibitors to make their reservations as soon as possible to ensure they receive the best location for their booth. IDEA is being held April 29-May 1, 2025 at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Miami Beach, Florida.

Global suppliers and manufacturers who exhibit at IDEA will connect their technologies and innovations to C-suite leaders, R&D developers, and specifiers. Exhibitors can demonstrate their products to participants from around the world, answer their technical questions, and collaborate on new products.

INDA is responding to customer feedback with reduced expo pass fees for attendees and exhibitors to drive additional networking and business development opportunities. FiltXPO™, the International Filtration Conference & Exhibition, will again be co-located with IDEA bringing additional value to all participants. Registrants can attend both shows whether they are attending the expo or the conference and expo.

Tony Fragnito, INDA President, said, “Our theme for IDEA25 is ‘Nonwovens for a Healthier Planet’ and will culminate our 2024 focus on Sustainability with pillars on Responsible Sourcing, End-of-life Solutions and Innovations in Sustainability.  We are excited to see the diversity of companies showcasing their commitment to sustainable concepts. This event is where the future of nonwovens will be on display.”

“Exhibit space for IDEA is being reserved at a brisk pace, with interest from both prior exhibitors as well as companies exhibiting for the first time. This show is where nonwoven companies can cement their status as a solution provider, acquire competitive market intelligence, and grow their business with new market applications,” said Joe Tessari, INDA Associate Director of Sales.

IDEA is the largest North American exhibition dedicated to the next generation of nonwovens and engineered materials. To learn more about exhibiting at IDEA, visit www.ideashow.org.

Posted: February 1, 2024

Source: INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry,

Stitching The Future: How Textile Supply Chains Are Evolving In The E-Commerce Age

Rohit Dev Sethi

By Rohit Dev Sethi

In the rapidly evolving landscape of retail, the e-commerce market has emerged as a dominant force, transforming the way consumers shop for goods, including textiles. As online shopping continues to gain momentum, the textile industry is faced with the challenge of adapting its supply chain solutions to meet the unique demands of the digital marketplace.

The traditional textile supply chain, characterized by a linear flow from raw material production to manufacturing, distribution, and finally, retail, is now being reshaped to accommodate the dynamic nature of e-commerce. Here, we explore the key strategies and technologies that are revolutionizing textiles supply chain solutions for the e-commerce market.

Demand Forecasting And Data Analytics

In the e-commerce era, accurate demand forecasting is crucial for efficient inventory management. Data analytics plays a pivotal role in analyzing consumer behavior, predicting trends, and optimizing production schedules. Textile companies are increasingly leveraging advanced analytics tools to gain insights into market trends, enabling them to align production with actual demand, reduce excess inventory, and minimize the risk of stockouts.

Agile Manufacturing

Traditional manufacturing processes often involve large production runs to achieve economies of scale. However, the unpredictable nature of e-commerce demand calls for more agile manufacturing practices. Textile companies are adopting flexible production systems that can quickly adjust to changes in demand, allowing for smaller, more frequent production runs. This not only reduces the risk of overproduction but also enables companies to respond rapidly to market trends.

Eco-Friendly Practices And Sustainability

As consumers become more environmentally conscious, there is a growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products. Textile companies are integrating sustainable practices into their supply chains, from sourcing raw materials to manufacturing and distribution. E-commerce platforms are also recognizing the value of eco-friendly products, and textiles with sustainability credentials are gaining a competitive edge in the market.

Digitization Of Processes

The digitization of supply chain processes is a cornerstone of adapting to the e-commerce market. From order placement to production and delivery, digital technologies streamline operations, reduce lead times, and enhance overall efficiency. The implementation of digital platforms for order processing, inventory management, and communication between stakeholders ensures real-time visibility and collaboration throughout the supply chain.

Fulfillment And Logistics Optimization

E-commerce success hinges on timely and efficient order fulfillment. Textile companies are investing in advanced warehouse management systems, automated picking and packing technologies, and last-mile delivery solutions to enhance the speed and accuracy of order processing. Additionally, partnerships with third-party logistics providers are becoming increasingly popular, allowing textile companies to tap into existing delivery networks and meet the demands of quick and reliable shipping.

Customer-Centric Approach

In the e-commerce landscape, customer satisfaction is paramount. Textile companies are adopting a customer-centric approach by offering personalized experiences, customization options, and transparent communication throughout the purchasing process. Leveraging technology, such as virtual fitting rooms and augmented reality, enables customers to make more informed decisions, reducing the likelihood of returns and improving overall customer satisfaction.

Adaptive Technology Integration

The integration of cutting-edge technologies, such as blockchain for supply chain transparency and artificial intelligence for predictive analytics, is becoming a norm in the textiles industry. These technologies enhance traceability, minimize counterfeiting risks, and improve overall supply chain visibility, ensuring that products reach consumers with the highest level of quality and authenticity.

Summing Up

The e-commerce revolution is reshaping the textiles supply chain, necessitating a shift from traditional linear models to more adaptive and agile approaches. By embracing demand forecasting, agile manufacturing, sustainability practices, digitization, logistics optimization, customer-centric strategies, and advanced technology integration, the textile industry is poised to thrive in the digital era. As e-commerce continues to evolve, textile companies must remain proactive in adopting innovative solutions to meet the ever-changing demands of online consumers and stay competitive in the global marketplace.

Editor’s Note: Rohit Dev Sethi is managing director of India-based Colossustex Pvt. Ltd.

January 31, 2024

ITMA 2023: An Exhibitor Perspective

ITMA 2023 was held at the Fiera Milano Rho fairgrounds in Milan, Italy.

TW Special Report

ITMA 2023 is now in the textile industry’s rear-view mirror, but for exhibiting companies leads, connections and information accumulated during the event are starting points for future business opportunities and ideas for the next generation of technologies.

Textile World recently interviewed just a very small sample of exhibitors that participated in ITMA 2019, held in Milan, Italy, to learn about their experience and get a sense of the overall market for textile investment especially as it relates to the United States.

Responses below were provided by Will Motchar, Navis TubeTex; Hardy Sullivan, Thies Corp.; Rick Stanford, Baldwin Technology Co. Inc.; Gunar Meyer, Monforts; Stefan Engel, American Trützschler; and Thomas Oetterli, Rieter Group.

Responses are in no particular order and have been condensed and edited for clarity.

Respondent: Will Motchar, president and CEO of Navis TubeTex, Lexington, N.C.

TW: Can you comment on the quantity and quality of visitors at your booth during the show, and the countries and regions where the visitors came from?
Motchar: Quantity and quality of visitors was excellent at ITMA. As always, ITMA is a truly global show so we had current and potential customers from around the world. I would say South Asia was very strong, central and south America, and even the U.S. was well represented.

TW:Of the machines/technology your company had on display, what drew the most attention?
Motchar: Our newest acquisition, Gaston Systems foaming technology drew the most attention for us. The technology has been traditionally used for chemical application offering significant benefits in terms of reduced chemical, water, and energy usage. We now have the capability to use the Gaston technology to dye fabrics and even yarn in a continuous process that is far more sustainable than current methods.

TW: Based on customers’ interests and questions during the show, do you see any overarching trends? In your sector, what impact does sustainability have? 
Motchar: Well you said it, sustainability is the overarching trend. But customers want and HAVE to have real sustainable solutions, not just hyperbole. Too many suppliers are slapping the word “sustainability” on their newest models when the improvements are miniscule to non-existent.

TW: What is the appetite for investing? Is U.S. interest apparent?
Motchar: Discussions at ITMA were very positive for investment. However, we have not seen actual orders come in as fast as we anticipated following the exhibition. Interest from U.S. customers was very high, but they also have delayed ordering.

TW: Do recent orders point to any evidence of nearshoring and reshoring in the Western Hemisphere?
Motchar: Yes, definitely. There is no denying that we are seeing this happen. Probably a higher degree of nearshoring than reshoring, but both are happening.

TW: Do inflation and higher interest rates create investment headaches? Do you think the United States will avoid a recession?
Motchar: Absolutely. Inflation and high interest rates are a problem. Inflation is killing the lower and middle class buying power. Interest rates obviously play a big role in capital investment decisions. I do not think the U.S. will avoid a recession.

TW: Are there any roadblocks, such as high energy prices, holding manufacturers back from investing in new equipment and technologies?
Motchar: If anything, high energy prices are driving manufacturers to invest in new equipment and technologies that use less energy. The biggest roadblock for investing is uncertainty. Geopolitical and economic conditions are very volatile and unpredictable. That is a bad recipe for investment.

TW: Would you say ITMA 2023 was an overall success for your company?
Motchar: If we see the orders come in that were anticipated following the show it will be an overall success. Nevertheless it was a great opportunity to showcase all the new and exciting products/technologies that we have been working on.

Respondent: Hardy Sullivan, sales, Thies Corp., Rock Hill, S.C.

TW: Can you comment on the quantity and quality of visitors at your booth during the show, and the countries and regions where the visitors came from?
Sullivan:We were pleased with the traffic in terms of quantity of visitors from the Americas, Europe and India. The lingering effects of Covid probably resulted in a smaller turnout from China. While there weren’t a lot of deals negotiated on-site, some ITMA visits turned into sales. In other cases, however, promising projects have been delayed.  Being at ITMA was the right decision but the results have been mixed.

TW: Of the machines/technology your company had on display, what drew the most attention?
Sullivan: Practically every discussion started with Signature Series because of its strong environmental story and low operational cost. It was, literally, the centerpiece of our booth. Being able to prepare and dye cotton without salt in a dye jet is a compelling advancement. Of course, each customer has his own area of interest, so our focus follows the individual need.

TW: Based on customers’ interests and questions during the show, do you see any overarching trends? In your sector, what impact does sustainability have? 
Sullivan: For sure, sustainability and digitalization, which is a subset of sustainability, were the overarching trends.  Sustainability was our booth’s theme but, more importantly, it has been our engineering mission. To set our story apart, we openly reported metrics that quantify usages of water, materials, and electricity; and we benchmark our values to the next-best offering, not outdated standards.

TW: What is the appetite for investing? Is U.S. interest apparent?
Sullivan: U.S. textile producers tend to evolve capabilities rather than make greenfield, step-change investments in technology or new products.
In the United States there are relatively small but important pockets of customer interest.  A few examples of domestically-dyed end-uses include automotive fabrics, military fabrics, and upholstery yarns. Fiber cleaning and bleaching for nonwoven products, such as facial wipes, is another important market for us.
As happens in textiles, in the ‘90s and ‘00s there was an exodus of large-scale apparel dyers from the US to lower-cost countries.  While the US is not a strong market for dye machines, relatively, Thies US is well-prepared to support dyers that remain committed to domestic production. Large orders are infrequent, so we’re building machines for niche manufacturers and customizing automated chemical management solutions. The latter systems offer safe, hands-free blending and dispensing of fabric finishes and coatings to fabric applicators (i.e. pads, spray systems).
Thies produces machines in Germany but the technical, commercial, and warehousing support is local.

TW: Do recent orders point to any evidence of nearshoring and reshoring in the Western Hemisphere? 
Sullivan: Unfortunately, the evidence is not overwhelming.  We have had some pleasant surprises from orders from Mexico.  However, some near-shoring decisions appeared to have slowed.  With their economy struggling, are Chinese mills lowering prices to overcome slow supply and high transportation costs that were experienced during Covid?  We’re not sure.

TW: Do inflation and higher interest rates create investment headaches? Do you think the United States will avoid a recession?
Sullivan: US consumers have an oversized appetite for taking on debt, as evidenced by credit card debt reaching pre-pandemic levels. Inevitably, however, paying more for housing, in particular, is going to cut into consumer demand, particularly for semi-durable and durable goods.  In turn, our customer base may see a slowdown in sales.
A recent WSJ article indicated the US economy, which has been resilient, might have a soft landing, meaning lower inflation without a recession. I think a recession will be narrowly avoided … but our long-term problem, which is not being addressed, is rising debt.

TW: Are there any roadblocks, such as high energy prices, holding manufacturers back from investing in new equipment and technologies?
Sullivan: On the contrary, the US still has relatively low energy prices. When natural gas prices were high — early 2022 (Russia invaded Ukraine) — there was a spike in interest in our technologies that consume less fuel and recover energy from heated effluent. Now that the fuel price pressure has subsided, paybacks are longer and interest has softened a bit.
Of course, higher energy consumption has another cost — higher emissions of greenhouse gases. For now, at least, this environmental cost does not show up in ROI calculations.  As a result, this aspect of sustainability is not the driving factor for capital decisions.

TW: What are your thoughts on the impact of artificial intelligence (AI) in textile manufacturing and the technology your company designs/supplies?
Sullivan: I wouldn’t say we’re using AI today, meaning systems are working to make improvements without human intervention.  However, we do have customers that are taking full advantage of tools to work smarter.
Smart systems in use today consist of (1) an understanding of materials and processes (by smart, informed people), (2) user-friendly software networked to advanced machines for controlling process settings, (3) automatic, real-time measurement of process variables, (4) maintenance of wear-and-tear components, and (5) continuous implementation of lessons learned.
As a technical example, we offer chemical dispensing systems that have a self-learning feature.  A pump dispenses a predetermined volume and that volume is then measured by a flow meter.  If the flow meter indicates more or less chemical than expected, then the pump will adjust its number of revolutions, accordingly, during the next dispense.  In another example, we can easily ensure certain chemicals do not get combined in future recipes if we identify a negative interaction.  Lastly, I can envision a central system that shortens time spent problem-solving by analyzing data trends in an automated way.  For me, having a system that implements decisions without human intervention (AI) is a step too far, at least for now.
I think the most important job we have at Thies is to educate customers on the potential that already exists.

Rick Stanford, VP global business development at Baldwin

Respondent: Rick Stanford, vice president of Global Business Development, Textiles, Baldwin Technology Corp., St. Louis

TW: Can you comment on the quantity and quality of visitors at your booth during the show, and the countries and regions where the visitors came from?
Stanford: We had more than 300 visits with the vast majority high quality contacts.  As you can imagine a concentration of visitors came from Pakistan, Bangladesh, India, Turkey, Western Europe.  We heard that some Indians were not able to get their visas so traffic from India could have been better. We saw good traffic from Taiwan and Japan. I would say the Americas is about what you would expect.  Not so many visitors, but very serious opportunities.

TW: Based on customers’ interests and questions during the show, do you see any overarching trends? In your sector, what impact does sustainability have?
Stanford: In dyeing and finishing, sustainability and lowering the carbon footprint is the most important.  Our technology’s main objectives are in these areas. We believe that this ITMA was sustainability front and center and then mills were focused on how to improve their processes more than purchasing more production capacity. During COVID there was a big push for more production as people were working from home and looking for more comfortable, casual clothes. Now the mills have the capacity and want to be more sustainable with a lower carbon footprint.

TW: What is the appetite for investing? Is U.S. interest apparent?
Stanford: Asia is looking to invest. We actually sold machines at the show. For our technology, the U.S. is interested, but quite honestly, because of the poor business conditions, the U.S. mills are holding off on investment.  It really has not improved since the show.

TW: Would you say ITMA 2023 was an overall success for your company?
Stanford: Overall, it was the best ITMA I attended. I have attended each ITMA since Hanover in 1991. Baldwin has the products that the market is looking for and that helps. It was a well organized very successful exhibition. Many times exhibitions are a bit disappointing when you consider the money and people resources that are required. With this show, it definitely paid dividends!

Stefan Engel

Respondent: Stefan Engel,  CEO, Trützschler USA, Charlotte, N.C.

TW: Can you comment on the quantity and quality of visitors at your booth during the show, and the countries and regions where the visitors came from?
Engel: We were very pleased with the quantity and quality of our discussions. The fact that the total number of visitors at this ITMA was higher than at the ITMA 2019 was also reflected at our stand. We had a very good response at our booth and recorded more than 1200 “qualified” conversations with visitors from all over the world.

TW: Of the machines/technology your company had on display, what drew the most attention?
Engel: Trützschler Spinning experienced a strong demand for its recycling solutions and the new cooperation with the Turkish company Balkan Textile Machinery INC.CO. This has made us the first full liner in the spinning preparation and recycling sector, as our product portfolio is now completed by Balkan’s cutting and tearing machines. Further, the next generation card TC 30i attracted a lot of attention. It achieves the best quality from any raw material thanks to an enlarged cylinder diameter and a higher number of active flats. Another highlight was our 12-head high-performance comber TCO 21XL that maximizes productivity by 50 % without sacrificing quality – while saving 25 % space. A special topic for Trützschler Nonwovens was the presentation of customized needle-punching solutions together with the Italian company Texnology S.l.r.

TW: Based on customers’ interests and questions during the show, do you see any overarching trends? In your sector, what impact does sustainability have?
Engel: Sustainability continues to be one of the biggest trends and it has a big impact. Our customers are always looking for cost-effective solutions to make our industry more sustainable. As a fabric manufacturer you have a lot of textile waste. You can use this waste as a raw material to make new yarn, for example. In general, using textile waste as a raw material can be an attractive business model if you can achieve a certain level of quality. Our spinning preparation machines achieve this level.

TW: What is the appetite for investing? Is U.S. interest apparent?
Engel: Most investments of our U.S. customer base increased between late 2020 and topped mid-2022. As delivery times increased dramatically over the same period due to supply chain issues, some customers began to place few cancellations in mid-2023 as the economy slowed down. Currently there’s a little appetite for investment as recession fears linger and companies cut CAPEX in 2024.

TW: Are you seeing manufacturers shift their product mixes? Are they moving toward more innovation or are investments more focused on improved efficiency and lowering costs?
Engel: Product mixes have shifted from cotton to poly-cotton over the past few years.  However, processing types have changed dramatically in the recent past.  Ring spinning is becoming less prevalent in the United States (labor intensive) and is moving to areas such as Central America. OE and MVS remain but will not increase in production in the next few years. Most new projects are driven by lowering the cost per pound by reducing labor requirements and improving efficiencies.

TW: Do inflation and higher interest rates create investment headaches? Do you think the United States will avoid a recession?
Engel: Elevated inflation and high interest rates have always a dampening effect on investment. The housing market is the biggest loser in such scenarios that weigh on consumer sentiment. As energy/fuel and food prices rise, consumers allocate less disposable income to textiles/apparel and other nondurable goods. With job security still relatively high, consumer confidence is strong. The likelihood of a recession at this point is low, as the overall economy is strong and inflation is trending down. If the FED does not continue to raise interest rates, it would be a sign that we will see some cooling in the next 12 months, but nothing close to a recession.

TW: Are there any roadblocks, such as high energy prices, holding manufacturers back from investing in new equipment and technologies?
Engel: The most significant investment roadblocks on a global scale are (1) volatile demand in downstream textile consumption, (2) availability of qualified staff to operate the machines effectively, (3) maintaining cost efficiency and profitability as operating costs (e.g., labor costs) increase. This last factor in particular is proving to be a common barrier for the U.S., as clients continue the trend of investing in Central America to reduce operating labor costs (electricity costs are lower in the U.S. than in Central America), resulting in a shift of production capacity rather than expansion for the American market itself.

TW:What are your thoughts on the impact of artificial intelligence (AI) in textile manufacturing and the technology your company designs/supplies?
Engel: In textile manufacturing, AI enables the intelligent analysis of large amounts of data by combining information from different sources to gain new insights. AI can optimize defect detection and product quality, as well as realize predictive maintenance, which will provide our customers with crucial competitive advantages in the future, and significant cost savings per kg produced. In particular, machine learning supports predictive modeling such as quality control, demand forecasting and predictive maintenance.

Gunar Meyer

Respondent: Gunar Meyer, managing director, Monforts

TW: Can you comment on the quantity and quality of visitors at your booth during the show, and the countries and regions where the visitors came from?
Meyer: There was an unexpectedly high number of visitors from all over the world at this year’s ITMA, and especially more customers from Latin America than expected. Generally, all textile manufacturing regions were well represented.

TW: Of the machines/technology your company had on display, what drew the most attention?
Meyer: There was a lot of interest in the Montex®Coat, the latest addition to our range of technologies which we displayed in Milan.
The Montex®Coat can serve a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments, as well as solvent coatings. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be accommodated with this system.
As such, it provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.
Many refinements have been made to the Montex®Coat in the past few years, resulting in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. A number of advanced new improvements were introduced in Milan, including automatic edge limiters for immediately adapting to new coating widths and a new and simplified hand-held control device. These save considerable time in setting up the machine and ensuring consistent production.

TW: Based on customers’ interests and questions during the show, do you see any overarching trends? In your sector, what impact does sustainability have?
Meyer: Monforts Montex stenters for processes such as drying, stretching, heat-setting and coating are already the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and resource savings.
As finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where palpable results can be achieved and we have developed a wide range of energy-saving measures.
This not only includes state-of-the-art machine chamber insulation, but also heat recovery systems. The Monforts Universal Energy Tower, for example, is a free-standing air/air heat exchanger that achieves energy savings of up to 25 percent.
The ECO Booster heat recovery system with integrated automatic cleaning is meanwhile directly integrated into the chamber design of the Montex stenter and enables energy savings of up to 35% depending on the application. One ECO Booster module is sufficient for stenter ranges with up to eight chambers.
Both the ECO Booster and the Energy Tower can be retrofitted to existing ranges, in order to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

TW: What is the appetite for investing? Is U.S. interest apparent?
Meyer: Prior to ITMA 2023, we were expecting this year to be challenging, given the generally gloomy analyst forecasts for the immediate future of the textile industry, so the number of new sales being announced at ITMA 2023 and the upbeat atmosphere took us by surprise.
We have sold a number of machines to companies in Mexico and other Latin American countries who are primarily manufacturing for the U.S. brands. Established manufacturers in the USA are meanwhile looking to replace older installations in order to benefit from all of the latest developments and increased productivity in high-level finishing.

TW: Do recent orders point to any evidence of nearshoring and reshoring in the Western Hemisphere?
Meyer: We have certainly seen more investments within Europe during the past two-to-three years, in France, Germany, Spain, Italy and the UK. Where nearshoring and reshoring are happening, it is generally in the upstream fields of digital decoration, printing and garment making-up — the final stages of the supply chain.

TW: Are there any roadblocks, such as high energy prices, holding manufacturers back from investing in new equipment and technologies?
Meyer: If anything, high energy prices are having the opposite effect and encouraging investment. For our customers, energy costs can account for up to 70% of production costs, so there is great demand for ways of saving money. This also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course.
We see the energy crisis of the past two years as an opportunity because it is leading to an energy consumption rethink in the textile industry.
At ITMA 2023, for example, the two seminars we organized on green hydrogen as a new energy source for textile finishing were very well-attended.
Monforts is currently leading a consortium of industrial partners and universities in the three-year WasserSTOFF project, launched in November 2022, to explore all aspects of this fast-rising new industrial energy option.
The target of the government-funded project is to establish to what extent hydrogen can be used in the future as an alternative heating source for textile finishing processes. This will first involve tests on laboratory equipment together with associated partners and the results will then be transferred to a stenter frame at the Monforts Advanced Technology Center (ATC) in Germany.
Green hydrogen’s potential as a clean fuel source is tremendous, but there is much we need to explore when considering its use in the textile finishing processes carried out globally on our stenter dryers and other machines.

TW: Do you have any forward-looking thoughts as you digest ITMA 2023 and look ahead to Hanover in 2027?
Meyer: The textile industry is preparing for the future and wants to contribute to a general reduction in CO2 emissions.
At ITMA 2027 in Hannover we will see what further responses to this major challenge have been realised. In Milan this year it was just good to be back at a physical show and meet many colleagues and customers from around the world. This is something everybody has missed during the past few years.

Thomas Oetterli

Respondent: Thomas Oetterli, CEO Rieter Group, Switzerland

TW: Can you comment on the quantity and quality of visitors at your booth during the show, and the countries and regions where the visitors came from?
Oetterli: We were blown away by both the quality and quantity of visitors to our booth. We welcomed many current and prospective customers from around the world, engaging in insightful and in-depth conversations around a shared passion: Rieter technology. In addition, our virtual booth enabled us to share the greatest moments with customers from around the world in real-time, from the unveiling event through to daily product launches.

TW: Of the machines/technology your company had on display, what drew the most attention?
Oetterli: Our innovations were well received. Our revolutionary double-sided air-jet spinning machine J 70 drew huge crowds. The machine boasts up to 200 autonomous spinning units and four robots, allowing production speeds of an unmatched 600 m/min.
Interest in our recycling offering is skyrocketing: Com4recycling is the Rieter system that enables customers to produce fine, high-quality ring and compact yarns from challenging raw material. This holds true even with a relatively high proportion of mechanically recycled cotton fibers.

TW: Based on customers’ interests and questions during the show, do you see any overarching trends?
Oetterli: All things automation and digitization sparked interest. ROBOspin, the industry’s first fully automated piecing robot, is highly coveted in times of tight labor markets. We are also seeing a growing appetite for digitization services like ESSENTIAL – Rieter Digital Spinning Suite. This indicates that there’s a generational shift underway to younger mill owners for whom digitization is a must-have. This aligns seamlessly with our vision to fully digitize spinning mills.

TW: What role does sustainability play?
Oetterli: For a long time, yarns were perceived as a commodity in the textile value chain. But recycling is changing all this, putting yarns at the forefront of the industry’s efforts to become more circular and fight climate change and biodiversity loss. When yarns made from recycled fibers reach acceptable quality levels, this also has positive impacts on downstream processes. Global brands are now turning their focus on spinning to understand the limitations and opportunities in processing recycled fibers. Our in-depth textile expertise is helping customers tap into a unique market opportunity.

TW: What is the appetite for investing? Is U.S. interest apparent?
Oetterli: The textile industry is highly cyclical. Markets across the globe have recorded a slowdown since the middle of last year and now a certain restlessness is palpable. Projects are being planned and everyone is waiting for the recovery, but it is hard to pinpoint when it will set in.

TW: Are you seeing manufacturers shift their product mixes? Are they moving toward more innovation or are investments more focused on improved efficiency and lowering costs?
Oetterli: In the spinning industry, competitiveness is the name of the game. This is why we design every new machine generation to improve efficiency in terms of energy and raw material consumption. Our latest machine generations are unbeatable in this respect. Highlights include the J 70, our sewing thread finish winder, Thread King, and our new card C 81, to name just a few.

TW: What are your thoughts on the impact of artificial intelligence (AI) in textile manufacturing and the technology your company designs/supplies?
Oetterli: We are incorporating artificial intelligence into existing machinery, a case in point is our card C 81, where we have added intelligent sensors which set the carding gap to the ideal size and monitor contaminant content in real-time.
The use of artificial intelligence will make a significant contribution to automation and process optimization and thus to improving sustainability in the textile industry. To expand our leadership in the field of industrial artificial intelligence, Rieter and the Johann Jacob Rieter Foundation are funding a professorship at ZHAW School of Engineering in Winterthur, Switzerland.

TW: Would you say ITMA 2023 was an overall success for your company?
Oetterli: It was a resounding success! ITMA 2023 confirms our strategy of advancing our systems approach by incorporating intelligence and engineering performance. Our technology helps customers to capitalize on more market opportunities and produce more economically.

January 2024

Replacing PFAS

NIRI’s latest white paper explores the challenges and opportunities for sustainable nonwoven product development

 TW Special Report

The nonwovens sector embraces innovation and environmental and social responsibility perhaps more than any other industry. As the EU and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) bring in further regulations to restrict the use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), we face significant challenges — and the ubiquity of PFAS means these changes will affect industries across the board, from construction to filtration, from medical to food and beverage.

The England-based Nonwovens Innovation & Research Institute Ltd. (NIRI), a nonwoven and textile product development and R&D group, has produced a new white paper outlining the issues, and exploring potential solutions to help customers maintain a competitive edge while addressing the business-critical aspects of sustainability and social responsibility. The white paper offers insights into how new material science and fiber innovation, coupled with pragmatic product design decisions, can reduce dependency on PFAS or eliminate it altogether, without compromising performance requirements.

“Forever chemicals” have been found to pose significant risks. Unintended leakage has led to long-term environmental accumulation, contaminating soil, ground, and surface water, disrupting ecosystems, and impacting the food chain.  The propensity of PFAS to bioaccumulate in the body has been linked to chronic diseases and reduced fertility, with exposure linked to kidney, liver, bowel and thyroid diseases and cancers, as well as acute health conditions such as high cholesterol, increasing the risk of stroke or heart attack.  As the unconstrained use of PFAS is neither sustainable nor societally acceptable, access to PFAS is becoming increasingly restricted — posing significant and imminent challenges for industrial usage. In 2025, the European Chemical Agency (ECHA)’s recommendation on the restriction of PFAS will pass into law and become part of REACH regulations. This will mean a total ban on the use of many PFAS above a threshold quantity following an 18-month transition period. In parallel, the EPA has introduced strategies and programs to limit human and environmental exposure to PFAS.

The transition away from PFAS is already impacting manufacturers and convertors in the nonwovens sector, as some companies restrict the use of existing stocks to focus on a smaller number of products, leaving some products out of specification and underperforming.  In this context, there is an increasingly urgent need to explore options to reduce or eliminate dependency on PFAS and, given the ubiquitous nature of PFAS across a whole host of sectors, the commercial and regulatory demand to find PFAS-free approaches cannot be ignored.

NIRI’s latest white paper outlines their approach to re-evaluating the design and formulation of products to help companies reduce or eliminate PFAS from their products and processes — an approach that has already been harnessed by NIRI and their customers to evaluate how to effectively navigate the transition from PFAS  while still achieving required product performance. NIRI’s approach asks one significant question: how can we influence the bulk performance of the product through intelligent design, rather than relying entirely on surface coatings?

The white paper posits the transition away from PFAS as an opportunity — both to ensure new developments are compatible with circular economy approaches, and as a route to re-evaluating and upgrading designs for futureproof products and greater sustainability. With growing customer awareness of social responsibility, companies who respond to the PFAS-free challenge ahead of regulatory deadlines can be ideally positioned to increase market share through premium brand positioning.

Tackling the PFAS issue is just one example of the many sustainability challenges NIRI is helping to address, as a world-class innovation and product development supplier of sustainable materials, fibers, nonwovens, and their associated products. With industry-leading expertise and full prototyping and analytical capability, NIRI accelerate innovation, develop commercially viable products, identify new market opportunities, and provide world-class scientific advisory services for customers from start-ups to multinationals.

NIRI is trusted by global leading innovators to guide and support them with their most critical and game-changing aspirations — from ideating concepts to assisting the transition to upscaled manufacturing. With over 900 projects completed for more than 450 customers across the full spectrum of the nonwoven supply chain, NIRI’s rapid corporate expansion reflects the value and growth provided to customers, worldwide.

Download NIRIs latest white paper here

January 31, 2024

Asia Conquers U.S. Apparel Market, But China Lags Behind

By Ehsan Soltani

United States apparel imports surged by 81 percent, increasing from $64 billion in 2000 to $116 billion in 2022, while total goods imports grew by 168 percent. The share of apparel from total imports declined from 5.1 to 3.4 percent during this period. Notably, the share of knitted apparel from total woven and knitted apparels rose from 45 percent in 2000 to 58 percent in 2022, indicating an increased preference for more casual apparel imports with lower prices.

From 1995 to 2000, the share of the world, excluding China and seven Altasia countries — Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam — in total U.S. apparel imports was around 72 percent. This dominance was attributed to import quotas that protected the U.S. market from cheap Asian exporters.

Two significant turning points unfolded in the 2000s. China joined the World Trade Organization (WTO) in December 2001, and more importantly, from January 2005, quotas on textile and apparel exports were eliminated, marking the removal of all quantitative restrictions on imports from WTO members under the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA), which had been in place for more than four decades.

Apparel exports from the world — excluding China and the seven Altasia countries, which amounted to approximately $46 billion from 2000 to 2004 — experienced a notable decline, falling to $24.6 billion in 2010. In contrast, China’s exports surged by 133 percent, while the seven Altasia countries witnessed a 64-percent increase from 2004 to 2010. As a result, the share of the world, excluding China and the seven Altasia countries, in total United States apparel imports was halved, remaining at around 30 percent throughout the 2010s.

China’s apparel exports to the United States peaked at $36.3 billion in 2015. From 2015 to 2022, China’s apparel exports to the United States decreased by 24 percent, and the seven Altasia countries increased by 62 percent. As a result, China’s share of total U.S. apparel imports dropped from 37.4 percent to 23.7 percent.

In 2022, the seven Altasia countries, with a total export value of $52.7 billion, constituted 45 percent of United States apparel imports. Notably, Vietnam and Bangladesh, with apparel exports amounting to $19.5 billion and $10.3 billion, respectively, surpassed China, whose exports stood at $27.5 billion. Furthermore, India, Indonesia, and Cambodia recorded apparel exports of $6.3 billion, $6.2 billion, and $4.8 billion in 2022, respectively.

The production and export of textiles and clothing played a central role in generating export revenue and fostering economic development in China. Until the mid-2010s, textiles and clothing constituted the primary source of export revenue for China. Notably, textiles and clothing still hold significance for the Chinese economy, with a trade surplus share of 16 percent and 35 percent of total manufacturing and goods exports, respectively, in 2022. However, the apparel share from China’s total goods exports gradually decreased from 20.1 percent in 1993 to 5.1 percent in 2022. Due to industrial and economic development, demographic changes, and a more than threefold increase in labor costs compared to the seven Altasia countries, these nations are poised to gain a larger share in the United States market, while China’s share is expected to continue declining in the future.

Editor’s Note: Ehsan Soltani is with West Lebanon, N.H.-based Econovis LLC

January 31, 2024

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