Springs To Focus On Home Furnishings Business

Springs Industries Inc., Fort Mill, S.C., announced it has agreed to acquire the stock of Regal
Rugs Inc., North Vernon, Ind., the wholly owned subsidiary of Readicut International, the United
Kingdom.The strategic acquisition will further expand our bath and accent rug product lines, said
Crandall C. Bowles, Springs chairman and CEO. This purchase will continue Springs strategic
emphasis on increasing sales through acquisitions that complement our already extensive line of
home furnishings.The purchase price of $30 million is subject to adjustments based on Regals net
assets as of the closing and related to certain incremental tax liabilities that might be incurred
by Readicut as a result of the transaction, the companies said. Regal will operate as a subsidiary
of Springs.Springs will also acquire the remaining 50 percent interest in American Fiber Industries
LLC (AFI), Commerce, Calif. Springs acquired its current 50 percent in February 1997.AFI
manufactures and distributes bed pillows, mattress pads, down comforters and comforter accessories.
It will operate as a subsidiary of Springs Industries, with Jack Foley as its president.Jack and
Janet Foley have owned AFI since 1990 and control the remaining 50-percent interest in the
company.Springs also announced that it sold its Springfield Division to a management group led by
Edward N. Shogan, the divisions president since 1989.Over the past decade, Springs has
strategically repositioned itself from a manufacturer of apparel fabrics to leadership in home
furnishings, Bowles said. This divestiture marks another major step in this process and allows us
to focus all of our efforts on improving our home furnishing business.Springs received
approximately $46 million for Springfield, including a preferred equity interest of $10 million in
the business. According to the company, Springfields 1998 sales approximated $120 million.The
company also announced that it sold its Industrial Products Division to Chiquola Industrial
Products Group LLC, an investor group led by Marvin B. Fuller, a former Springs executive, for a
price in excess of $24 million.Consideration for the sale was in the form of cash, a subordinated
note and a limited, preferred equity position in Chiquola, Springs reported.

February 1999

Kellwood Launches New Evening Collection

Kellwood Co.s ENC division, City Of Industry, Calif., is launching a new contemporary evening
collection called M by David Meister.According to Arthur Gordon, CEO of ENC, the new line will
feature glamorous evening looks in sophisticated jerseys, crepes and organzas with beaded
embellishment detaining.M By David Meister was created exclusively for the ENC division by the
designer himself.

February 1999

Sulzer Scales New Heights

The beginning of this year has brought with it a new force in the weaving industry. The
merger agreement between Sulzer Ruti and Nuovo Pignone was finalized, forming the new Sulzer
Textil. This move creates the largest supplier of weaving machines in the world.The industry is
waiting to see how this consolidation will affect these two companies and their product lines.
Nuovo Pignones line of rapier machines will make Sulzer Textil an industry powerhouse, covering
major sectors of the industry under one corporate umbrella.Philip Mosimann, president of Sulzer
Textil, recently sat down with ATI to discuss the merger, the future of weaving technology, new
markets and the upcoming ITMA in Paris.ATI: What are Sulzer Rutis most important markets How do you
separate markets by different needsPhilip Mosimann: From a geographical viewpoint, Europe remains a
strong market for us. Within Europe there are countries that are more important than others in
terms of the size of the business, such as Germany, Italy, France and the United Kingdom.Then there
are the American continents, where the United States, Mexico and Brazil, going by size, are the
most important ones to us.Asia also is a big market. Currently, for obvious reasons, that market is
very soft.In Europe, rapier looms are very strong because they produce articles following fashion.
In the United States, air jet is a lot stronger than any other technology. We are in a position to
adapt our sales organization to sell the type of technology that the customer needs.ATI: What role
is the North American market playing in Sulzer Rutis product and market strategyPM: An important
one. We have reviewed our product market strategy and have definitely decided to give the American
market a strong push, mainly with our air-jet machines, but also in special applications with
projectile. But projectile is more of a niche application in the U.S. market.For specific
applications, our rapier machine is also sold in the United States. A new development is that
American companies order looms and then they install them in Mexico, but we also get direct orders
from Mexico. ATI: Nuovo Pignones rapier loom has an excellent reputation. Was that one of the
reasons for Sulzers recent purchase of the companyPM: Definitely. The weaving machine industry is
really ahead of a consolidation. If you look at it, $2.1 billion is roughly the market size. There
are about nine major players, so each one of them has about $200 to 250 million, and for a global
business that is very small.We want to lead the field. We were looking for the most complementary
partner, with regard to products and customer markets. If you look at Nuovo Pignones weaving
machinery division, they have a good rapier loom, and they are strong in Asia because they have a
more standard loom at a lower price. Nuovo Pignone also has as additional customer base. It works
out well for us.ATI: Will Nuovo Pignones strong position in Asia have any impact on your
relationship with Toyoda Automatic LoomsPM: In the long term, there is always an impact. The
question is how big it will be. We will definitely continue with Toyoda as in the past. Our
relationship wont change. And, we continue to push our L5200 machine, which has a good position in
the market and is getting a positive response in the United States. Last year was successful,
better than 97. Our air-jet sales are increasing this year compared to last year, and in that
respect, Toyoda Automatic Loom Works remains our partner as before.ATI: How has the weaving machine
business changed over the last five to 10 years, and how has Sulzer Ruti adaptedPM: The good old
days were in the early 90s or late 80s, when there were some 70,000 looms a year being produced.
Now we are seeing a downturn to nearly 45,000 looms. 1997 was up quite a big jump, but it was in
water jet. We saw a lot of this in Asia, where there were 17,000 water-jet looms sold in 1997. The
water-jet boom collapsed in the first half of 1998. Water jet is a totally different business, one
we are not a part of. As big as this jump was, the fallout in 1998 was equally big and caused
serious headaches to my colleagues in Japan who manufacture those looms. Water jet is only used
with synthetics, and this had an impact on the 1997 increase, along with some huge orders being
placed in Indonesia, China and Korea.Then came the Asian crisis, and as suddenly as this wave went
up, it went down. Our assessment is for an average of 45,000 looms per year, plus or minus 5,000.
That corresponds to the swings and the volatility of the textile industry. So, in a bad year like
1998, it will probably be in the 40,000 range, and in a good year it could be close to 50,000. In
1997, there were 53,000 looms sold under these statistics.ATI: In the future, do you plan to focus
your production on a specific type of loom or series of loomsPM: Yes. I think given the market
situations. With our merger with Nuovo Pignone, we will give rapier special attention.Projectile
looms have had a huge success story. More projectile machines are sold worldwide, and we are going
to sell to those customers who can take advantage of that type of technology. No one weaving type
will get 60 percent of the market, so there will always be a balance. But on average, over several
years, we expect projectile to remain strong.ATI: Which countries can best take better advantage of
the projectile loomPM: Countries with high energy costs work best. Projectile looms have, by far,
the lowest energy costs. For countries that dont need multi-color applications, such as eight or 10
colors, projectile is very good, and when someone needs a more universal machine than an air
jet.Two countries in the Americas with large concentrations of projectile looms are Brazil and
Mexico. We see good applications in Germany for projectile. In Europe, there is mainly rapier and
projectile, depending on the type of style being manufactured. ATI: What is the status of the
M8300 Multiphase weaving machine, and where do you have commercial installations Will there be a
U.S. installationPM: We have completed development work for the standard applications, and we are
in the controlled-market-introduction phase. That means we have a limited number of customers where
we sell these looms in a controlled manner. We need mills and customers who really fine tune their
logistics, to be able to handle the high-speed and achieve the maximum benefits.For example, if the
company does not have an optimized warp change, or if their machine stands there for a long time,
every minute you lose on the M8300 is a greater production loss than the same minute on a
projectile, rapier or air-jet machine. We have installations in France, Germany and Italy. We plan
to have one small installation in the United States this year. Right now, we cant disclose the
location. In Northern Italy, we have an installation at Standard Tela and the controlled market
introduction is in the area of fabrics that go from six to 30 threads per centimeter in the warp
and filling for standard applications. ATI: Looking ahead, what kind of market share do you see for
each of the weaving machine technologies (multiphase, air jet, rapier, projectile) in terms of
machines purchasedPM: We see rapier technology, on a global basis, to be in a range of 40 to 50
percent of all looms sold. We see air jet to be in the range of 20 to 25 percent, and water jet on
a global scale is in the range of 15 percent, with some big swings like 1997. That is important.
From year to year it can change quite dramatically.ATI: What is the prospect for Sulzer Ruti looms
in Latin America for the next five years Which Latin American countries are your best clientsPM:
Brazil and Mexico are by far the largest. That doesnt mean that we dont have any sales and activity
in the other countries, but these are the dominant countries. The M8300 loom has big potential in
Brazil and Mexico. They have large production of standard fabric applications. We see big potential
for these two countries in the future.ATI: What has been the growth rate of Sulzer Ruti loom sales
in Latin America over the past few years Which of your looms are the most popular and whyPM: With
the exception of a very lousy year in 1996, we are in the order of some 500 to 600 looms.
Projectile weaving is very strong in Latin America overall. Our rapier loom, for example, is too
focused on high-end applications. We basically have few customers and sales of our rapier in this
area, with the exception of American-based companies that are starting to build factories in
Mexico.With Nuovo Pignone, that can change as well, because of the type of looms. We also sell in
Asia standard and more simple. There will be more potential in Mexico and Latin America for us in
the future.ATI: What has been the response of Latin American customers to the P-Lean loomPM: It has
been very well accepted in Brazil. Mexico has some small installations. Brazil is a strong outlet,
and the customers always do battle for productivity and flexibility. P-Lean is more productive and
simpler, but in the end has somewhat lower flexibility than the normal P7100 or P7200.ATI: Have you
had good response from Latin American customers to your new computerized training programs PM: They
are interested. Some are looking into it and some customers have bought it. It is still a slow
start. Some workers in Latin American mills arent as computer savvy. Its a matter of time.Mill
management has seen the potential for savings of training costs, but it has not really gotten off
the ground as we would like. I think it will take another year or two and then were there.ATI: How
have your sales to Mexico been affected by NAFTAPM: As far as Mexico goes, you see some of our
strategy in our air-jet push. It not only goes to the United States, but it also goes to Mexico. In
1994 we were below 100, in 97 we were above 250 and last year will be in the same area. Theres been
positive growth in Mexico.ATI: Will Sulzer Ruti and Nuovo Pignone have separate booths at ITMA, and
what can you tell us about your new releases at the upcoming showPM: We will have one booth.
Through an arrangement with CEMATEX, we have neighboring booths so we will be able to have one
booth under Sulzer Textil.As far as new releases, we cant say anything in precise terms, of course.
I think the developments, not only our own but the industry in general, basically go in three
directions.One is an increase in performance. Another is an increase in textile applications
machine flexibility. The third is ease of operation simple, repeatable machine adjustments. We are
active in these areas. This includes style changes. For example, you may have the same warp but you
might want to change the density of filling, or things like that.Also, demand machine interfaces
will be changed in a way to go to more modern technologies. There wont be such a sensation like
ITMA 95, and definitely not the revolution we experienced with the M8300, which was completely
new.ATI: The Swiss textile machinery will have a slightly smaller space at ITMA Paris than they had
in Milan in 95. If you combine your booth and Nuovo Pignones, wont that mean youll have twice as
much spacePM: No, it wont be that much. If you have one booth for Sulzer Ruti and one booth for
Nuovo Pignone, it is obvious you need less space.So on the Swiss booth space, you have an increase
and on the Italian booth space you have a decrease. I think that is the first synergy we are
realizing, we dont need as much. ATI: Will the recent troubles in world markets affect ITMA
attendancePM: I think the audience will be good. Suppliers with exhibitions are larger than they
were last time, and thats a good sign.On the other hand, ITMA and all exhibitions have lost a
little bit of that paradise we had 10 years ago. Customers dont hold their orders for ITMA anymore.
For suppliers, if we have a new loom or invention, why should customers wait for a year or so
before they purchase it The Russian and Asian situations are also going to slow things down.ATI:
Originally, plans called for a loss of 200 jobs in Switzerland. Does that mean there will be an
increase in jobs in Italy or will you be able to manage with fewer peoplePM: There will be a slight
increase in Italy. If you look at the Italian businesses, they are organizing with a lot of
sub-suppliers. That means that if sales go up, we dont have to increase our number of people. But
there definitely will be more work in the area. So maybe there will be more jobs in the supplier
network around the company. ATI: Are you planning to send anybody from your Swiss operation to
ItalyPM: We will send one person, who will be the general manager of this company in Italy. But
thats all. We really tried to integrate the management team of Nuovo Pignone into our organization
in order to profit the most from their knowledge and their experience in the rapier business. That
means the responsibility for the combined rapier business will be in Italy. Because they are
producing a lot more looms than we do on Sulzer Rutis side, we want to have it in one location not
two. However, the global logistic center for spare parts will be run out of Switzerland. Therefore,
all spare parts, including those for Nuovo Pignone looms, will continue to be available 365 days a
year, and orders are done automatically. All orders leave the factory within 24 hours of being
received. We fly spare parts four times a week from Switzerland to the United States.ATI: When you
introduced the M8300 three-and-a-half years ago, you said it did not require a standard structural
base. It this still true in the practical applicationPM: Its absolutely true. You take that
machine, place it on the floor, and you dont even have to fix it to the floor.There is a simple
reason for this. The loom has the fewest vibrations because everything is rotating. You dont have
oscillating masses. If you look at a rapier machine, for example, you have the rapiers going back
and forth, so you move masses in an oscillating way.None of this exists on the M8300. You place it
on the floor and thats it. Its a big advantage in terms of layout, flexibility and building
construction costs. All the machines we have in our plants that have more than a billion picks were
only placed on the floor, not even screwed on.

February 1999

How To Avoid A CAD-Tastrophe

In the mid-1980s, Stork, the Netherlands, spent several years and significant sums of money
trying to find a CAD system that would facilitate color separations and screen engraving to drive
its rotary screen printing equipment. The net result of the search was its own development of the
first proprietary CAD system for the industry. The Image 3000 System, which was first introduced at
the 1991 ITMA show in Hanover, Germany, listed for $250,000.Today there are approximately 30 to 35
vendors offering proprietary CAD software and hardware systems that range in price from $695 to
more than $100,000 and are designed to meet the changing needs of an industry where technology is
rapidly becoming a competitive advantage.These systems dont just replace the designers pen and
color markers but support a variety of time-consuming and costly tasks such as color reduction,
color separations, the creation of multiple colorways, putting patterns into repeat, creating
weaves and plaids, engineering stripes and jacquards, rendering 3D models, fabric draping and even
driving some of the actual production equipment. Important InvestmentsWhile the need for these
systems is self-evident, there are many for whom these systems are either too costly or just plain
more than is needed. With a variety of off-the-shelf graphics applications available, including
Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, MetaCreations Painter and Macromedia Freehand, with
prices that range between $400 and $700, it is often asked: Do I need proprietary or commercial CAD
softwareWhile commercial graphics software is designed to be used for a broad range of products and
industries, apparel industry proprietary applications are designed specifically to address the
unique needs of apparel and textile designers.Whereas 80 percent of a designers work might be done
using only 20 percent of a commercial applications extended features, proprietary software offers a
more limited but focused range of functions.For proprietary software, less is more, with specific
and even customized functions that are often programmed to work with specific types of external
devices, including monitors, printers, engraving equipment, weaving looms and knitting
machines.According to Holly Henderson, president of H4 Designs, a CAD consulting firm in New York
City, as well as a CAD instructor at the Fashion Institute of Technology, the real advantage of
proprietary software lies in the expertise of the software vendors.Sure, anyone can go out and buy
off-the-shelf software and draw pretty pictures, she said. But how functional or useful will the
digital information be if thats all that is created With proprietary software, you are buying not
just specialized and functional software, but technical support, industry expertise and, in some
cases, production capabilities. You are buying color management across devices, a relationship with
a vendor that knows your system and products, as well as valuable consulting services.The major
drawback to proprietary systems has always been the price, which has been dictated by high
development costs and a smaller market potential than that of commercial applications. Proprietary
systems also lock you into a relationship with a vendor and re-quire specialized training that can
be costly if a company is growing or experiencing a high turnover in design staff. For this reason
alone, it is not ill advised to shop for proprietary software through both the schools and the
service bureaus in the geographic location of a company, both of whom could offer trained help as
needed. Market ResearchWhile proprietary implies a closed system, i.e. that designs created on
that system can only be worked with in that particular system, the days of truly proprietary CAD
systems are fading.The market has dictated that only open standards are acceptable, with TIFF 6.0
having been established several years ago by CItdA (Computer Integrated Textile Design Association)
as the industry standard. While some proprietary systems still write code in a closed file format,
most of these now offer a save as option, which allows the user to save the file in a more widely
used file format that can be read by other software applications, including the commercial
software.The undisputed king of commercial applications is Adobe Photoshop, a feature-rich,
faster-imaging program available for both Macintosh and PC platforms that lists for $995, but is
available from most mail order houses for around $629.With an impressive 88 percent of the
commercial graphics market using Photoshop, finding designers who are skilled in using the program
is relatively easy. In fact, Photoshop is so widely used that many proprietary software vendors
bundle the program along with their own custom software.While many companies have hoped that
Photoshop would satisfy all of their design illustration needs, the program falls short in some of
the industry-specific design requirements.These shortcomings include the ability to create repeats
and multiple colorways, color naming and rotation, and the ability to create plaids and stripes
with embedded structures.Several savvy proprietary software vendors have recognized both the trend
away from proprietary systems, as well as Photoshops limitations.These companies, each of whom also
offer their own proprietary software, have developed Photoshop plug-ins that add some of the
requisite functions for apparel and textile designers. Plug It InA plug-in, as the name
implies, is a mini program that is simply dropped into the plug-ins folder in Photoshop and results
in the addition of menu items that add new features and functions to Photoshops
capabilities.Hi-Techs International, Carlsbad, Calif., offers its Colorways Photoshop plug-in,
which is actually two plug-ins in one.Color Separation allows the user to compress or reduce any of
the colors from a scanned image in seconds. It also contains a special editing feature for cleaning
up the image.The Colorways plug-in has an automatic color generator that can create up to four
colorways of the same image at the click of a button, or the user can change colors one by one
using RGB or CMYK color formulas. Colorways sells for $950, which includes both plug-ins.Companies
can also add the Repeat accessory to Hi-Techs Colorways plug-in, which has the ability to create a
repeat from either a single motif or minimum repeat image in seconds. The original motif can be
reduced, rotated and shifted to the vertical and horizontal directions. Repeat sells as an addition
to Colorways for $300.Monarch Design Systems, Glendale, N.Y., offers ColorExchange and
PlaidsandStripes.ColorExchange is a plug-in that enables designers to automatically generate and
view colorways of patterns, prints, backgrounds, wovens, knits or any graphic design. Multiple
colorways are generated by shifting the position of the original colors used in a pattern, or by
adding new colors either by picking from the 16.7 million available or from saved, specialized,
seasonal or other color palettes.Users can also name their own colors and colorways, making it
simple to track, reuse and distinguish between the different options.Monarchs PlaidsandStripes is a
plug-in that enables designers to easily and quickly create simple to complex plaid and stripe
patterns. It also includes a library of structures, such as twill and oxford, which can be, with
the touch of a button, applied to the designs to create graphic simulations of woven or knit
fabrics.Info Design, New York City, is offering the latest entry into the Photoshop plug-in market
for the design industry.Vision Easy Step actually consists of four separate plug-ins, which include
Easy Repeat for previewing customized repeat and step types; Easy Incrust with Color Expander,
which supports click-and-drag cropping as well as advanced color controls; Easy Change Origin,
which supports fluid, real-time origin movement in a variety of repeat and step types to simplify
seamlessly meshed repeats; and Easy Duplicate, which converts the original single repeat into a new
repeat based on the repeat and step-type selected. The Easy Step plug-in suite sells for $495.Age
Technologies in Montreal, Canada, is the only vendor marketing plug-ins for both Adobe Photoshop
and Illustrator software.Their Clicdesign modules include Plaidmaker; QuickRepeat for the creation
of cascading repetition, horizontal rotation, superimposed and inversion of images horizontally or
vertically; and ColorVision, which lets designers recolor scanned fabric images instantly without
the need to reduce the number of colors.While these plug-ins have been developed specifically to
address the needs of apparel and textile designers, there are a variety of other Photoshop plug-ins
available on the market that offer frequently needed features such as the ability to create drop
shadows, movable light angles and 3D movement for multiple perspectives. Proprietary Vs.
CommercialAccording to Eric Rosenberg, Marketing Manager for Monarch Design Systems, the CAD
software landscape is now best defined not as proprietary vs. commercial, but as high-end vs.
off-the-shelf.Off-the-shelf really represents a subset or subsets of the high-end software, he
said. We have essentially pulled out discrete functionality from our high-end software and offer
them individually.Rosenberg states that the companys rationale is that not every company needs the
high-end software, at least not on every workstation, so why not package sets of tools that address
specific needs. Product developers are therefore not forced to purchase a lot of features they
might never use in the high-end software.The off-the-shelf products can also be an unintimidating
introduction to the benefits of CAD and sometimes a stepping stone to the higher-end options as
companies needs or awareness of these applications grows.So, to answer the question of proprietary
vs. commercial or high-end vs. off-the-shelf, it is clear to see that there is no simple
solution.The CAD software needs of a designer or company are as varied as the products they
produce. Software needs are a reflection of the type of products being developed, the methods of
marketing and manufacturing, the size of a company, and most certainly the end-use of the CAD
designs.With technology bringing about a convergence and re-engineering of business processes, CAD
is not just about drawing pretty designs, but about being a pivotal front end to product
development, pattern making, production and even marketing.CAD designs are now being used to drive
weaving and knitting looms, for desktop, textile and offset printing, as well as for Internet
publishing. Each of these end-uses presents its own unique challenges for linking different
software systems as well as color definitions, which makes it clear to see that there is not one
single solution.However, regardless of the tools used, the premise to keep in mind is that any CAD
software is only as good as the operator who runs it. Get In Touch Hi-Techs International
www.hi-techs.com Monarch Design Systems www.monarchcad.com/colorex.htm
www.monarchcad.com/plaids.htm Info Design www.idivision.com/main/es.html Age Technologies
www.agetechnologies.com Plug-Ins Party website http://pluginparty.i-us.com/ 
Editors Note: Teri Ross is president of Imagine That! Consulting Group, Inc. and publisher of
the award winning Technology Exchange www.techexchange.com. To contact Teri, call 612/593-0776 or
e-mail her at tekguru@techexchange.com.

February 1999

Specialty Industrial Expands With Acquisition Of GCI

Industrial Products (SIP), Spartanburg, S.C., recently announced the acquisition of GCI
Technologies Inc., Gastonia, N.C.SIP said that the acquisition fits its strategic plan to diversify
its business with an expanded line of textile auxiliary products.GCI offers a comprehensive product
line for dyeing operations, including scouring agents, softeners, surfactants, leveling agents and
foaming aides.According to SIP, GCI will be managed as an affiliated company by SIP.

February 1999

Osmonics And Cargill Pursue Joint Effort

Osmonics Inc. and Cargill Inc., Minnetonka, Minn., have joined together to find out if membrane
systems can be as successful in harsh, solvent-based environments as they are in water-based
processes.The two companies will investigate under a five-year, $3.75 million grant from the
National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) Advanced Technology Program.This joint
venture creates tremendous opportunities for our companies today and will benefit entire industries
in the future, said David Paulson, Osmonics director of Corporate Research and Development.Cargill
offers extensive expertise in commercial food and fertilizer processing, while Osmonics brings
high-tech separations product design and engineering skills. Together, we will develop innovative
and cost-effective membrane solutions for widespread industrial solvent applications.According to
the companies, once commercialized, the new polymeric membranes and systems should help U.S.
companies save tens of millions of dollars in energy costs annually, because membranes typically
require less than 10 percent of the energy used in distillation. They will also reduce costs
associated with controlling airborne and wastewater emissions.Cargill will provide a full-time
program manager and will act as administrator of the grant. Osmonics will focus on membrane
products and systems technology and collaborate with Cargill on applying membrane to processing
applications.A research group at the University of Kentucky will assist with transport and
separation modeling, and the University of Minnesota Center for Interfacing Engineering will
provide analytical expertise.

February 1999

Tritex Presents New Machine Models For Knitters

In advance of ITMA, Tritex International is launching two new machine models directed at the
knitted clothing industry and supplement Tritexs growing range of specialty machines for products
as diverse as wire, pot scourers, meat wraps, hats, scarves and neck ties.Model SM13 is a fully
electronic, dedicated sampling machine designed and engineered to support knitters, R and D
facilities, assist fashion designers and provide an economic sampling service for large-diameter
jersey fabric machine knitters, the company says.The Model SM13 has a 13-inch diameter and is fully
computerized with six knitting feeders each equipped with four color striping units. Each of the
six feeders can be eliminated via the knitting program, down to a single feed.Tritex has also
introduced the TX401, a 24-inch diameter machine with eight feeds for rugby jerseys. These can be
blanked out individually and the machine can operate down to single feed.Tritex has enjoyed
considerable success in the rugby jersey area with its revolving cambox model Tiger 2000. European
legislation regarding revolving cambox machines has prompted the company to offer the TX401 as a
replacement.

February 1999

Tops In Textured Yarn

Yarn ManufacturingBy Eric Vonwiller, Technical Editor Tops In
Textured Yarn
Investment in cutting-edge technology keeps costs low and Unifi on top.The impression
gained from touring any one of Unifis state-of-the-art manufacturing sites can be summed up in one
word awesome. Awesome not only in terms of the sheer dimensions of the facilities, but also in
terms of the technology used to create a world-class texturing operation. Maybe the companys motto
should be changed from Quality Through Pride to Quality Through Automation. ATI recently had the
opportunity to visit two Unifi texturing plants Yadkinville and Madison to see what keeps this
behemoth competitive in a cutthroat world market. Competition from Asia has taken its toll, and the
company is learning to weather the storm.In addition to looking at the companys technology, Unifis
chairman and founder G. Allen Mebane shares his thoughts on new markets, overseas competition,
future growth and company diversification.  Investment In The Future

According to Mebane, $500 to 600 million has been spent over the past four years on capital
investment to modernize all plants in the Unifi group. The company should be through with its
present investment program by the end of Summer 1999. At that point, the oldest equipment will be
from 1990.Founded in 1971, the company is a leader in texturing nylon and polyester yarn. Unifi
feels that if it wants to stay competitive it must take out the labor equation for making yarn and
fiber. The company has added a lot of computer-aided manufacturing. This eliminates the need for
personnel for typical physical heavy-load work and repetitive tasks.Mebane expressed that
automation was the major focus of the investment and it practically triggered a chain reaction,
from state-of-the-art production equipment to re-thinking the entire manufacturing and distribution
process.As a result of the vast automation throughout the companys plants, Mebane said that the
internal systems group will soon offer Unifis computer-aided technology with its own Enterprise
System to other interested parties. The companys European operation in Letterkenny, Ireland, is
continuously gaining market share in Europe and has become the most profitable operation in the
group. Roughly 1,200 to 1,300 tons a week are shipped from the Letterkenny operation into the
European market. Twisting and dyeing is now in place and are just the first steps for further
expansion.Mebane said that Unifi is ready to go offshore with plants where the company has already
built up sales. By now, he said, they understand the needs of such markets and can establish
targeted manufacturing. Winning Strategies

For what we do, we are pretty diverse, and we have a habit of getting paid for what we do,
Mebane quipped. We have a great balance sheet and we are in great shape to compete.Unifi was able
to show about a 9.4-percent after-tax profit in 1997 and will be in a similar bracket for 1998, but
world markets have taken their toll. The companys stock price went from around $40 at the beginning
of last year, to just $12 in October. It is now in the $18 range. The company recently posted a
second-quarter loss compared to the same period last year. Unifi cites the Asian situation and
imports as causes of its current financial woes.Unifi considers itself a processor and distributor
of chemical fibers rather than a textile mill. For Unifi, this is an important distinction, and the
entire company philosophy is based on this. They measure how many pounds of textured yarn per
man-hour year are produced and compare that to the world competition.Mebane pointed out that cost
in 1968 was approximately 13 to 14 cents per pound of labor to produce 150-denier textured
polyester. Today it is less than 4 cents a pound.In his philosophy, labor and electricity compete
with each other, and where automation makes sense, labor must be eliminated, especially in the long
run, to stay competitive in the world market.We have the same amount of overhead in a plant that
makes 4 million pounds a week of textured yarns as we had in our first plant in 1971 that ran
300,000 pounds a week.Mebane has great ambitions to go beyond the respectable market share the
company already has in the textured polyester and nylon business. He is certain that Unifi does a
better job in planning and organizing than others do and wants to focus Unifi on the total yarn
market, to show customers economies that will allow things to be done in the United States that are
not done in other parts of the world.The company has developed warps that you dont need to size.
This, of course, is related to filament yarns. The textured no-size warp yarn is an example that
Mebane sees as a typical application that could be used for innovative fabrics with the value-added
seal and higher profits than typical mainstream products.Unifi buys approximately 70 percent of all
the polyester fibers it uses. The rest is now produced internally. The company not only has
texturing as a value-added product line, it also offers draw warping, twisting and dyeing
throughout its plants.On the nylon production side, the company offers different covered yarn types
to achieve the value-added products that customers look for.The key for the business we have,
Mebane explains, is to cover your fixed cost with 70 percent of the turnover, then you can make a
lot of profit with the value-added items, which are the other 30 percent. Mebane sees this
philosophy as the key factor in maintaining momentum and staying profitable. Nylon
TexturingWith one million square feet of production area, Unifis production facility in Madison,
N.C., is impressive in size, but by far not the largest production plant the company has to
offer.Forty-one texturing machines, 31 of which are new Barmag AFKs with automatic doffing and 10
are Barmag L12 texturizers, provide great production capacity and superior yarn quality. The
Madison plant is set up for 40- to 150-denier nylon production, where single-end, two-ply and
four-ply yarns are run on the equipment.Clifford James, director of manufacturing for the Nylon
Division, explained that the new machines are able to run up to 1,000 meters per minute. With the
current setup, the plant is capable of producing 1.2 million pounds per week on the textured yarn
side, while conventional fine-denier covering averages approximately 125,000 pounds per week, and
the air covering machines produce approximately 200,000 pounds per week. In the final stage, the
plant will have 312 conventional ICBT covering machines with individually motorized Temco spindles
for the covering operation.Construction of this site began in May of 1997, and in October of that
year the company started installing the first machines. In January of 1998, production was started
with older production machines. Between January and July of 1998 all new machinery was
installed.The advantage of the new machinery is that it delivers state-of-the-art quality. The new
Barmags also allow individual take-ups for random doffing.This indirectly led to an increase in the
package weight. The Barmag UNITEN monitoring system monitors each threadline for tension and
quality throughout the entire process, and James emphasized that this is a significant advantage
when compared to the older systems.Packing is done at the machine, which is different from the
companys Yadkinville facility, where AGVs (automatic guided vehicles) transport the yarn to the
automated packing station. Nylon does not have the same high production levels as polyester does in
Yadkinville.Around 50 percent of the production sold to customers goes into socks, while the other
half is used for critical end-uses, such as circular knits and woven apparel products. Where
It All Started

Plant 5 in Yadkinville, N.C., is the original location where Unifi was founded by
Mebane.Today we basically have five texturing facilities on this site, said J. Gregory Sutton,
director of manufacturing.The plant has a total of 190 texturing machines. Running full capacity,
the company could produce around 9.5 million pounds of product per week, all textured polyester.
The denier range is 70 denier on the low end and 300 to 400 on the high end.There are about 2.8
million square feet under one roof housing all of the manufacturing facilities and warehousing.
Roughly 1,850 people work at the Yadkinville facility, which is considered the companys flagship
operation.Plant 5 was finished in October of 1996 and is home to 72 texturing machines. It has the
capacity to produce 3.5 to 4 million pounds of textured polyester a week, depending on the denier
mix in the plant. The range in this plant is 70 to 300 denier, with single- and two-ply as the
workhorse products.Barmag AFK texturing machines are installed with a different profile design for
polyester, as opposed to the nylon machines used in the Madison plant. The biggest difference today
is that there are very few commodity products produced at Unifi and may only be run on two to three
texturing machines.In this operation, a significant amount of automation is part of the texturing
process. The plants AGVs are tied in with the machine through a traffic control system that
dispatches AGVs out to the machine to pickup the packages. It brings them to an automated packing
system, then the packages are conveyed to an automated palletizing unit, and then stored in a rack
storage system.Unifi finished building its P.O.Y. spinning operation in June of 1998, and the first
pound of polyester was produced in January 1998. It then took about five months to get everything
fine-tuned from the beginning to the end of production. The P.O.Y. operation can produce around 3.5
million pounds of product per week. The basic products that are run today in this spinning plant
are 100-, 200- and 300-denier yarns, with the flexibility to produce various cross sections,
lusters and a wide range of filament counts. Partners In AutomationOn the automation side, the
plant opted not to go with an off-the-shelf package system.We worked with a group that helped us
with other automated systems and let them help us develop our systems for the P.O.Y. spinning site,
Sutton said. We started working very closely with Advanced Automation in Greenville, S.C. It has
been a good relationship. However, automation has always been extremely expensive. According to
Sutton, it is hard to put a finger on a dollar value for the payback when quality issues come into
play. But Unifi absolutely believes that the quality of all products is better as a direct result
of cutting-edge technology.For Plant 5, part of the responsibility was to focus on some of the
ergonomically unfriendly processes, such as lifting and moving packages.Those are the processes
that are detrimental to the health of the employees and will be the first to be automated, Sutton
said. Usually there are 20 to 25 percent that you really never can justify. We try to accept that,
and we never have gone into a process where we knew that a quarter of the last automation would run
the price tag up so high that we could never justify it.  The Exporting FormulaWe have a
wonderful platform in the United States to export from, said Mebane, Most people dont realize this.
We have the lowest cost of energy in the world, we have the best infrastructure transportation-wise
in the world, and we have a good solid base of petrochemical raw materials. We have all the
ingredients to export. Unifi exports from the United States to 54 countries and exports out of
Europe to about 25 countries. Since the world market has been unpredictable at best and as
economies improve or deteriorate, Unifi has had the challenge of staying focused on a moving
target. Unifi started exporting in the early 70s, but by 1980 the company was accused of dumping
product into the European market.We went from 10-percent market share to zero, Mebane said. The
reason for that was that European auditors would not believe that Unifis yarns could rightfully be
produced so inexpensively in the United States.Mebanes concern is that a lot of countries can
export freely to the United States, but U.S. manufacturers can not export on an equal basis.We dont
mind competing with anyone in the world, but we do like to have (equal) access to their markets,
explained Unifis chairman.Mebane feels that economic and political situations in countries are
becoming more of a hindrance to U.S. exporters than actual local textile competition. In addition,
the currency devaluations in some countries make it practically impossible to participate in a
competitive process, but the rest of the industry is in the same boat.The economic situation with
some of the Far East imports has deteriorated so severely that some of Unifis customers simply can
no longer compete.  Covering The BasesModernizing and automating the production plants and
offering value-added products to customers have become the key strategies for survival, but
diversification seems to play a major role in the future direction of the company.In cooperation
with a scientific team, Unifi has helped develop a process where yarn and fabric can be dyed
without using water or any effluent. The system is based on a carbon dioxide process where it
enters as a gas and liquifies under pressure. Once that happens, either a cleaning or a dyeing
process can take place.Mebane explained that an ad campaign is already under way and that this new
dry-cleaning business will become a national franchise called Hangers. At the present time three
test-markets have been selected. This new dry-cleaning technology will start a new business
activity for the Unifi group, and Mebane feels that a similar dyeing process will succeed. 
Editors Note: For more information on Unifi, see News in this issue. Also see Setting The
Standard For Quality, ATI November 1998.

February 1999

AlliedSignal Centralizes Textiles Operations

AlliedSignal Performance Fibers, New York City, announced that its Textile Nylon business
operations will be relocated to Petersburg, Va., and its New York offices will close.According to
the company, the move completes the integration of Textile Nylon into the Performance Fibers
business that began in July of last year.All of the Performance Fibers seven business segments will
now be centralized at AlliedSignals Polymers Technical Center in Petersburg.These include Fabrics,
Protection, Tire, Automotive Safety, Mechanical Rubber Goods, Ropes and Cordage and New Markets.

February 1999

Dan River Purchases Glenn Manufacturing Facility

Dan River Inc., Danville, Va., has purchased all of the assets of Home Innovations Glenn
Manufacturing facility, Morven, N.C., for a reported price of $2.4 million. Glenn Manufacturing is
a 315,000-square-foot sewing and distribution facility that manufactures home fashion textiles
products such as sheets, pillowcases and comforters.This acquisition gives us needed manufacturing
capacity, which will enable Dan River to better serve its growing home fashions business, said
Joseph L. Lanier Jr., chairman and CEO of Dan River. In addition to Glenns existing capacity, we
intend to expand production at the facility by adding new machinery and increasing employment.

February 1999

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