Levi39 S Creates Unique On-Line Shopping Experience

Levi Strauss, San Francisco, has created a unique on-line experience that combines advertising and
experiential e-commerce on its website, www.levi.com.Consumers will be able to watch a commercial,
click on the featured clothing to view, learn more about the product and make a purchase while the
spot runs.This internet experience, created by Convergence Mediagoup®, San Francisco, uses a
variety of innovative e-commerce capabilities, including interactive questions and reward
elements.Allowing consumers to interact with a commercial empowers them to explore the advertised
products in a whole new way, said Barth Ballard, digital marketing manager, Levis brand.Along with
accessing product information, consumers can play an interactive game. If they find the invisible
Levis jean Red Tab with their mouse, and answer questions about the commercial, they have a chance
to win $1,000 in Levis jeans Red Tab product.As people get more accustomed to making transactions
on the Web, they will start to demand more from their brands,” said Azi Tabachnik, founder and CEO
of Convergence Mediagroup.

November 1999

Kermel To Supply 30 000 Fire-Resistant Uniforms

Kermel, France, will supply 30,000 sets of fire-resistant bunker jackets and over-trousers made
from Kermel HTA fabric to the Italian fire services by the end of the year. The gear was tested
under real-life conditions from 1997 to 1998 by 350 Italian firemen.Kermel HTA fabric is designed
for outer shell use in fire-resistant jackets or splinter-proof vests. It is produced using a core
spinning technique that optimizes the advantages of the two fibers used (64-percent Kermel and
36-percent paramide). Kermel fiber is a polyamid-imide polymer with excellent mechanical strength
along with exceptional heat resistance.The Kermel HTA outer shell fabric combines an impermeable,
breathable membrane, a 100-percent Kermel felt and a Kermel/Viscose FR lining to form an
anti-static, fire-resistant fabric.

November 1999

Harbinger Creates Grand Canyon Inspired Carpet

Harbinger Co., Kennesaw, Ga., has introduced Steppe for corperate interiors. Steppe uses DuPont
Legacy® nylon and has a 16-color palette. It uses multi-level loops and two-tone colorations
appearance and overlapping geometric shapes to create a multi-dimensional appearance.
Circle 311.

November 1999

Superior Fabrics Expands Reinforcing Scrims Line

Superior Fabrics Inc., Pompano Beach, Fla., has recently expanded its broad line of reinforcing
scrims.The scrims, which have a wide variety of uses within the textile and apparel as reinforcing
and stabilizing components, are available in widths up to 180 inches and have a variety of weights
from 0.5 ounces per square yard to over 3.0 ounces per square yard.The company also announced that
it has recently expanded its operation to include the production of warp-knit tricot fabrics.
Circle 301.

November 1999

People

Avondale Mills, Sylacauga, Ala., has announced that Carole McFee has been named director, quality
assurance, Avondale Denim.In her new position McFee, who joined the company in 1985, will be
responsible the assessment of quality issues as they pertain to denim fabrics and production, both
in Avondales facilities and with its customers final products.The company also announced that Patsy
Royster has been named director, customer support, Avondale Apparel Fabrics.Royster, who has been
with the company since 1976, will be responsible for all aspects of apparel fabrics customer
service. This includes order entry, shipping, billing, outside warehousing and logistical support
for the Graniteville and Sylacauga offices.DuPont, Wilmington, Del., has announced several
personnel changes as part of its global restructuring. Dana B. McCauley has been appointed global
brand man-ager for DuPonts CoolMax and Thermolite® brands. McCauley, based in Wilmington, has been
with the company for over 13 years.Mark Conrad has been promoted to segment manager of Branded
Specialties The Americas. Conrad, who has been with DuPont for 20 years, is based in Charlotte,
N.C.Alyssa Koontz-Hammond has taken on new responsibilities as marketing communications manager for
CoolMax, TheraStat® and Micromattique The Americas. Koontz-Hammond is based out of Charlotte. She
has been with the company for 20 years.Kellwood Co., St. Louis, has recently announced that Martin
J. Granoff, chairman of Val dor and vice chairman of Koret Inc., was elected to the companys board
of directors. He has been with Kellwood since its merger with Koret in April 1999. Granoff recently
completed his term as chairman of the American Apparel Manufacturers Association.

November 1999

Astrup Adds To Duck Fabric Product Line

The Astrup Co., Cleveland, has added a dyed 10-ounce single-filling cotton duck to its line of duck
fabrics. This fabric can be used for a variety of applications including scenery application,
canvas bags, crafts, theatrical fabrication or costumes.The fabrics are A-grade dyeable, and
available in six colors.
Circle 303.

November 1999

Advantage Manufacturing Recycles Denim Waste

Advantage Manufacturing Group (AMG), Claremore, Okla., has created a process to convert denim
cutting scraps into a usable product.AMG extracts and recovers the indigo dye to produce a bleached
white cotton fiber. the fiber is then used in non-woven and spinning operations.

November 1999

Expressive Designs Offers Three New Wool Carpets

Expressive Designs, a division of Shaw Industries Inc., Dalton, Ga., has introduced three new
coordinating wool carpets. The three new carpets are Dolce Vita, Tatiana and Mariella.Dolce Vita is
a multi-level loop texture with a trellis pattern. Mariella, a loop pile, features an interlocking
pattern of geometric swirls. Tatiana, a loop pile, has a branched patterned with different levels
of loop pile yarns. All three products have a 12-color palette and is crafted from New Zealand
wool.
Circle 309.

November 1999

Zellweger Uster

 Zellweger Uster completely re-invented the yarn clearer with its Quantum clearer. This new
clearer is digital, has capacitive and optical sensing capability and gives yarn fault
classification according to the Uster Classimat concept.The Uster Quantum clearer can be used in
several different modes including: capacitive or optical sensing, capacitive and foreign matter
sensing or capacitive and optical combined. Quantum has 100-percent digital electronics,
self-calibrating measuring heads, and on-board diagnostics.The unit is retrofittable to many
existing machines. In fact, Quantum has created its own retrofit clearer business, one that hardly
existed before its introduction. From Net To Network

Quantum has changed yarn clearer applications from that of a safety net (cutting out thick
and thin places) to that of an information source for process improvement. Mills can use Quantum
for both quality monitoring and trouble shooting. It can be used as an on-line quality barometer to
predict end-use quality. It can also be used to track down problems and measure a mills capability
to change.One of the most exciting aspects of this new technology is CAY® (computer aided yarn
clearing). CAY is an optional software package that provides users with a clear picture of their
process capability.It can be used with Uster Expert as a PC-based monitoring system. Users can also
sample individual open-end frames or winders using CAY on a laptop. Sampling a frame or winder for
as little as 10 minutes can give an indication of process capability, according to Zellweger
Uster. Custom Clearer CurvesThe Quantum clearer and CAY give mill managers powerful tools to
determine and optimize process capability. The system eliminates guesswork and allows the user to
balance productivity and quality in a clear quantitative way. With conventional analog clearers it
was necessary to shift an entire clearer curve to remove a few unacceptable faults. This meant that
many non-critical faults had to be removed in order to get those few critical ones.With Zellweger
Usters new digital technology, users can define their own clearer curves, cutting out exactly the
faults necessary to maintain quality standards. The user can even see the effects of removing these
faults in yarn and fabric instantaneously on the computer screen. The new curve can also be
instantaneously exported to clearers on the spinning frame or winder.What was the work of months to
determine and optimize process capability can now literally be done in minutes.The ability to
customize clearer curves in this way has proved invaluable to mills making slub or Amsler yarns.
The clearers can be set to ignore long thick places but still cut out other yarn faults. This wasnt
possible with analog technology. Foreign FiberQuantum has a powerful optical foreign-fiber
detection feature that can be used in conjunction with either capacitive or optical sensing.
Foreignclass®, a new standard in foreign matter classification, can detect foreign matter across
the full color spectrum.

November 1999

The Digital Revolution

Electronic ArchivingOne of the most important decision points in implementing digital asset
management solutions (DAM) is also one of the most frequently overlooked: Who are your users and
how do they work Their technical level, their comfort with existing platforms and networks, as well
as their current workflow will all be major factors in the success, or failure, of a new system.
Champions and evangelists within the various departments of an enterprise are often critical to the
success of this kind of new technology.Once the personnel and technical issues are addressed,
workflow will define the process. In most cases, applications dictating workflow should be avoided.
Instead, efficiencies should come from the automation of proven workflow tasks. Of course,
emulating poor workflow will only let your staff be inefficient more quickly.Having already
identified the goals of your DAM system, step number two in the planning stage is to draw a
flowchart of your current imaging and storage processes. Identify what you like or dont like about
your current workflow, and map out the recommended changes. This step should include participation
from any and all employees involved in the process, as they will all be affected by any changes
that are made.The next step is to create the attributes and keywords that will be supported by the
database (See Table 1). Attributes include categories such as business unit, type of asset, design
family, ground effect, geometry, design elements, scale, layout, technique or style, etc. Within
each of these categories, your users can identify keywords they might use when looking for a
particular type of artwork, such as floral, plaid, stripe, directional, impressionist, etc.Dee Dee
Davis, a CAD designer for Springs Industries, Fort Mill, S.C., advises that all departments needing
to use the archived files be included in this developmental stage, as classifications used by the
design department are often different from classifications and descriptions needed by other
departments in the company.

 System Design PlanningNow you are ready for your system design plan, which will
identify how equipment pieces will need to be connected to one another. Some things to consider
are:How will non-digital art work be digitized, what equipment does it require and who will do
itWho will administer the archiving and who will have access to the filesWhat file formats need to
be saved in order to support various departments andIf you need a variety of formats for the
re-purposing of the files, will this be done at the same time of archiving or at a later date as
neededA map of the the new workflow should identify who does what, when they do it and how they do
it. (See Table 2.)The final step is to identify and develop the system standards that will identify
workflow issues such as file names, versions, folders, directories and servers. Failure to do so
will simply undermine the system and make it difficult to locate the correct version of a file.

 Digitizing Traditional FabricsWhile archiving digitally generated artwork is fairly
straightforward, archiving the fabric samples and hand-drawn artwork that has been collected for
many years provides for some unique challenges and opportunities. Not only will digitizing artwork
make it easier to find, use and re-purpose, but archiving your artwork can also prove to be
valuable for an insurance claim in the event of fire or theft.As it is with the implementation of a
DAM system, you must determine your objectives before digitizing any artwork. There are four
quality standards that need to be considered for the use of your digital files:Product development
and pre-publishing reference;Intra-company report enhancement;Business to business for sales and
marketing; andDirect to consumer e-commerce. Your goals will establish the quality standards,
resolution and file formats for the digital files.While there are several capture devices to
consider for use in digitizing artwork, including digital cameras, flat-bed scanners and drum
scanners, most experts agree that a high-end digital camera is the best solution for the broad
range of texture, repeat size and color challenges that the textile industry presents. Capturing
artwork on a conventional camera and converting the slides or negatives to digital data is not
recommended, as there are too many variables in the conversion process that can cause degradation
of the image in both quality and color. Also, digital photography is both less expensive and faster
than conventional photography, which requires a series of time consuming and costly steps to get to
the digital file format.Another advantage to using photography over scanning is the ability to
control the lighting with the use of a camera. Scanners use only one light source that scans the
entire image, often missing nuances of special textures, yarns, finishes and colors.The use of a
camera will allow you to use multiple lighting sources that can be modified to highlight the
features of a variety of fabrics. In controlling the light source, you can also minimize the effect
of the fabric construction while trying to capture just the print.While there are software
applications such as Pointcarrrom Monarch that will allow you to remove the fabric construction
from a print, this is a step that can be avoided by obtaining a proper capture to start.Digital
cameras range in price from $500 to $25,000. The less expensive cameras are not as color accurate,
capture less data and are prone to digital noise that will create unacceptable artifacts and
mottled solid colors.The best-of-breed for low-end digital cameras, according to Richard Lerner,
president of RSL Digital, New York, is the new Nikon Coolpix. This camera includes many attributes
of the high-end cameras, including a flash sync for setting off studio strobes, excellent color
contrast and balance controls, and it works well in a number of automatic modes. The Right
EquipmentYou should review your workflow and processing time when evaluating digital cameras for
your company.Using a low-end camera is like trying to pass a lot of data on a floppy disk, said
Randy Parker, president of Digital Images, Research Triangle Park, N.C. You are constantly
performing sneaker net, and are required to run back and forth between the camera, which has
limited storage capacity, and the computers hard drive. High-end digital cameras have a direct SCSI
connection to the computer that will eliminate the need for repetitive data transfers. If you are
capturing a lot of images, this capability alone will more than offset the cost of the more
expensive camera.The digital files will range in size from 2 MB to 25 MB or more depending on the
physical size and intended use of the artwork. Resolution requirements range from 72 dots per inch
(dpi) for images to be viewed only on a computer screen, 150-300 dpi for printing to fabrics
(contingent on the type of fabric and amount of color coverage) and 300 dpi for printing to press
for sales and marketing materials. The rule of thumb is to capture a minimum of the same number of
dots per inch as the line screen of the output device, up to a maximum of twice the line screen.DAM
is not just about having the proper equipment, software and workflow, but about having qualified
talent to produce and manage the archiving process. Digital photography is an art in the same way
that CAD is an art. Buying the requisite tools does not compensate for the skillset needed to
produce quality archives. Budget ConsiderationsBudget will play an important role in your
decision regarding appropriate hardware, storage, backup, and communications infrastructure. DAM
software solutions come in many different packages, from a per seat basis for client licenses, to
server solutions that allow unlimited access via Web browsers. If paying per seat, its important to
understand the user mix. Licenses that dedicate one installation per seat can be more costly
compared to those allowing a given number of clients to be on-line at once.More critical than the
price tag alone is a projection of cost savings, ROI and growth catalyst. While archiving, many
companies have discovered they were archiving duplicate artwork purchased by different divisions of
the company, a practice which could be avoided through proper asset management.The time savings, as
outlined in part one, is an obvious ROI. In many businesses, especially media-intensive ones, an
investment in the optimal digital asset management solution can even kick profitability into high
gear and be critical to sustaining a competitive advantage. Besides your employees, your library of
product samples and references are one of your companys most valuable assets. Evaluating DAM
solutions that best suit your specific needs requires that you keep your primary goals in mind. No
one provider offers a solution ideal for every company, and it is entirely possible that no single
vendors solution will solve all of your needs.
Editors Note: This is Part Two in a two-part series written after the CAD Expo plus Show, held
recently in New York. Part One, The Art of Achieving, appeared in the October issue of ATI.


November 1999

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