Currents Of Change

By Currents Of Change
Avondale Mills has become an institution in the textile industry, with a history spanning more
than 150 years.
 By the turn of the 20th century, as the South finally emerged from
reconstruction into the broad daylight of industrialization, a trio of companies had begun
operations in Alabama, Georgia and South Carolina. Avondale Mills, Walton and Monroe Mills and the
Graniteville Company, much like the three Fates of Greek mythology, were spinning and weaving
parallel threads of production, expansion and employee self-improvement in the early 1900s.A rich
heritage developed for all three companies over the ensuing century, one that was similar in its
focus on quality, value and opportunity. By the end of the 20th century, the companies, like the
fabrics they produced, had finally intertwined to form a cohesive whole.  

The Birmingham Plant of Avondale Mills in 1897.

The original Monroe Mill in 1895.

The orginal Granite Plant, built in 1845. The formation of Avondale Mills, Inc., brought
with it the illustrious more-than-150-year history of these Southern companies, and it is from them
that the company takes its motto today: to develop partnerships through relationships, information
and product with its suppliers, associates and customers which create value and the opportunity for
each to grow and profit.Today, Avondale is one of the nations largest producers of utility-wear
fabrics, denim and sales yarn; and one of the largest consumers of cotton. With sales in excess of
$600 million, and more than 5,600 associates working in 20 plants in four Southeastern states and
15 sales offices across the globe, Avondale Mills continues the heritage of innovation that was
begun more than a century ago.How It All Began

The Graniteville Company was founded by William Gregg in 1845 in the Horse Creek Valley area
of South Carolina, producing fabric from locally grown cotton. Monroe Cotton Mill first opened
its doors in 1895, producing greige goods. The original directors included George Felker,
great-grandfather to Avondales current Chairman, President, and CEO, G. Stephen Felker.

 

The first Avondale plant opened in 1897 near the Avondale community of Birmingham, Ala., and
produced greige goods. Braxton Bragg Comer was the companys first president, later serving as
governor of Alabama and a U.S. senator.Walton Cotton Mill Co. began operations at the turn of the
century, opening its doors in 1901. It manufactured greige goods, and also was led by
Felker. The Early YearsWilliam Gregg chose to build the first Granite Mill from the areas
native blue granite, thus giving the mill, and later the town, their names. A strong proponent of
development in the South, Gregg believed that opening the mill would advance industrialization in
the area. He expanded production in 1880 and 1900, building two more mills. Granitevilles
founder would be pleased to know that Gregg Plant, which was named for him, is the largest
finishing plant in the world today.

Graniteville’s cotton fabrics were internationally acclaimed, even at the turn of the 20th
century. Walton and Monroe Mills, both built in Monroe, Ga., on opposite sides of the same
street, had their roots in the same investors. The original directors of the Monroe Mill and
original petitioners for the formation of the Walton Cotton Mill Co. included Billington Sanders
Walker, president of Monroe Mill; George W. Felker; Henry D. McDaniel; Coleman T. Mobley; and
George C. Selman.It was the common Board of Directors that allowed Walton Mill and Monroe Mill to
operate side-by-side as sister companies, becoming synonymous with each other over the years.By
1906, Walton Monroe had doubled in size. The companies were able to stay on top with investments in
current technology, again doubling in size in 1923.Avondale Mills had no less of an impressive
start, one that had its beginnings in the faith of its machinery suppliers, who accepted company
stock for the value of their machinery when Northern investors pulled out before the mill was
completed.The company again relied on faith to remain solvent in 1913. It asked company
stockholders to subscribe $250,000 and issued a large block of preferred stock, which later was
redeemed. This was the only time that additional stock had to be issued.Avondale shook off its
financial woes and, like Walton Monroe, prospered. Between 1917 and 1921, the company built six
mills in the South, and increased the number to 10 by 1933.The year 1921 saw the advent of
Avondales first annual inspection tour, a forerunner to Avondales current Zero Defects (ZD) program
and facility-auditing program. ZD recognizes associate dedication and encourages communication
between employer and associate for the improvement of the company.The annual inspection tour was,
at first, a small, businessmen-only event that was arranged to encourage associates to take pride
in their work and in the plant as a whole.In typical Avondale style, the tours turned into
something far grander and more meaningful, with community leaders, customers and friends of the
company tagging along for the inspections, which were followed by full-scale banquets at the mill.
Associates came to take such pride in their work that they began to decorate their workstations
with flowers from their own gardens. On The Home Front

The onslaught of World War II forced the textile industry into the war effort. Avondale,
Graniteville and Walton Monroe jumped into the cause, continuing the similar pace they had kept up
during the first part of the century.Items made for the war effort included: woolen blankets for
the Army; knitted yarns for the manufacture of Army and Navy undershirts, underwear and socks;
camouflage nets; herringbone twills used in fatigue uniforms for both training and actual combat;
tent fabrics; sanforized drills for trouser pocketings and waist bands; wide and narrow tickings
and linings for military mattresses and mattress covers; and seersuckers for service hospitals
throughout the nation.Avondale was twice awarded the Army-Navy E Flag for outstanding production of
quality products delivered on a timely basis during the war effort. A Time Of ProsperityThe
last half of the century saw the three companies grow with the post-war economic boom.High-profile
advertising campaigns during this time gave Avondale a greater presence within the textile
industry, and showed both its customers and its associates that it was at the forefront of the
industry.Avondales most expansive campaign came in 1947 in the Saturday Evening Post. A monthly
series of full-page advertisements depicted Avondale associates and their families in paintings by
Douglass Crockwell. 

The Companion Colors campaign came three years later. It was another series of nationwide
advertisements that ran in such publications as Ladies Home Journal, Vogue, McCalls and Good
Housekeeping, among others.Around the same time, Avondale, Graniteville and Walton Monroe made
improvements to almost all of their plants. Investments were made in technological advancements,
such as new opening equipment, combers, magic eye doors, lighting systems and continuous overhead
cleaning devices. Central air conditioning, however, didnt come until 1963, when the Walton plant
was among the first to receive this luxury.The trios ability to weather the storms of war and
unstable economic times enabled all three to expand their operations, as well as upgrade them. More
than 17 plants were either bought or built by Avondale, Graniteville and Walton Monroe between 1961
and 1994.Running on what seemed like parallel currents in the same river, the three companies
flowed closer and closer together as the 20th century came to a close.Walton and Monroe officially
merged in 1968 to become Walton Monroe Mills, Inc. In 1975, Avondale Mills acquired Cowikee Mills,
an Alabama company founded in 1888 and, since 1913, also owned by the Comer family.The currents
rushed even closer together in 1986, with the purchase of Avondale by Walton Monroe Mills, Inc. The
two companies operated separately, but were managed by the same Board of Directors.In 1993, the two
finally merged, taking the name Avondale Incorporated. Avondale Mills, Inc., now operates as a
wholly owned subsidiary of Avondale Incorporated.Three years later, Avondale acquired the textile
assets of the Graniteville Company, adding five more plants to the Avondale family. Just The
BeginningThe textile industry has seen many companies washed away by the overwhelming forces of
economic instability and change in product demand. It is rare to see a manufacturing operation that
has weathered so many storms still standing strong after more than a century and a half. But, it is
this steadfastness in inclement times that makes Avondale stand out. It is because of the companys
long history of unity and commitment that its future remains promising.Our rich history has
culminated in a corporate culture that demands excellence from each of our associates, said G.
Stephen Felker. This culture permeates and thus vivifies our entire enterprise.The story of
Avondales road to prosperity may seem a little complicated, but mergers and acquisitions by
companies with similar investors, work ethics, dedication to product advancements and concerns
about employee welfare helped the individual companies become the success that Avondale is today.
June 2002

For The Record

For The Record:Ramtex uses Trutzschler 803 and 903 cards to prepare sliver at about 120 pounds per
hour for its 70 Rieter SB D10 and RSB D30 drawframes. The company weaves more than 900,000 yards of
fabric per week, 130,000 of which are produced using 14 Sulzer multiphase machines
(See Ramtex, TW, May 2002).
June 2002

Easy-Care Cotton Inventor Receives Achievement Award

Easy-Care Cotton InventorReceives Achievement AwardDr. Ruth Rogan Benerito, inventor of easy-care cotton, has received the eighth annual Lemelson-MIT Lifetime Achievement Award for invention and innovation. The $500,000 award was presented during a special ceremony at the San Francisco Museum of Art by the Lemelson-MIT Program at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Cambridge, Mass.Dr. Benerito, who worked for 33 years at the Southern Regional Research Center of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is credited with saving the cotton industry in the years following World War II, when fabrics made from man-made fibers were gaining popularity over cotton fabrics among American consumers. Her theory of crosslinking cellulose chains in cotton to provide wrinkle, stain and flame resistance received the first of 55 U.S. patents for processes used in cotton production. Dr. Benerito also created an environmentally safe process for the pretreatment of cotton, replacing mercerization using sodium hydroxide with radiofrequency cold plasma cleaning. The process was later adopted by the Japanese textile industry.June 2002

Stork Introduces Sapphire Digital Ink-Jet Printer

Stork Introduces SapphireDigital Ink-Jet PrinterThe Netherlands-based Stork Digital Imaging has introduced the Sapphire digital ink-jet printer. The printer uses piezo drop-on-demand ink-jet technology and can print on a variety of natural and man-made substrates, including silk and polyamide.Print speeds of up to 32 square meters per hour are possible, and the printer is suitable for short runs and roll-to-roll printing. In addition, the PrinterServer software guarantees quality reproduction and high color consistency, according to the company.Stork also offers specially pretreated textiles or, for customers wishing to use their own substrates, the necessary fabric pretreatment chemicals or Storks pretreatment license.June 2002

VBL Installs Bruckner Stenter

VBL InstallsBruckner StenterGermany-based Voss-Biermann, Lawaczeck GmbHandCo. KG (VBL) recently installed a split-flow stenter with process visualization and felt calender supplied by Bruckner Trockentechnik GmbHandCo., also based in Germany. Fabrics up to 2.6 meters wide can be finished using the new frame.As a commission finisher, we have to be able to finish all types of fabric with the most different weights and requirements, efficiently and rapidly, said E. Lingel, production manager, VBL. According to Lingel, VBL selected the Bruckner machine because of its high capacity, flexible automization and easy cleaning.June 2002

BBA Nonwovens Invests In New Spunlace Line

BBA Nonwovens InvestsIn New Spunlace LineBBA Nonwovens, Old Hickory, Tenn., is to invest $36 million in a state-of-the-art spunlace line at its Bethune, S.C., facility. BBA decided to make the investment to support a multi-year, specialty wipes contract awarded to the company by a major global customer. Currently, BBA also has new lines under construction in the United States, Europe and the Asia-Pacific region to support customers needs.June 2002

Biancalani Receives ISO 9001-2000 Certification

Biancalani ReceivesISO 9001-2000 CertificationItaly-based Biancalani S.p.A. is one of the first Italian companies to obtain the new ISO 9001 Ed. 2000 certification. The company obtained the certification earlier than was mandated in order to show its dedication to customer satisfaction and continuous improvement.Biancalani continues to work to fulfill three main goals: to continue introducing innovative machinery to the marketplace; to adopt a price policy that encourages investment in finishing equipment; and to strengthen after-sales service.June 2002

AAFA Proposes Alliance With Material World

As part of its ongoing mission to promote and enhance business opportunities for its members, the
American ApparelandFootwear Association (AAFA) has announced its intention to form an alliance with
Material World, the international full-package and sourcing event for the sewn products industries
held in Miami Beach, FL. As part of the proposed alliance, the AAFA will market Material World,
promoting the exhibition and its extensive exhibitor base, educational programming and full-package
sourcing opportunities, to both its branded apparel members, as well as its supplier members. The
AAFA will also have a prominent booth at the upcoming edition of Material World, October 7-9, 2002,
at the Miami Beach Convention Center. “As the President of the trade association for the apparel
industry, we are delighted to be partnering with the only supplier trade show in the United States
held specifically for the apparel industry. We are encouraging all of our supplier members to
exhibit in this event, and our sourcing managers to give it their full support,” says Kevin Burke,
President and CEO of AAFA. “We’ve been eager to work with the AAFA since we launched Material World
in 2000, and look forward to the partnership with such an important national industry association,”
says Tim von Gal, Executive Vice President, Urban Expositions, producers of Material World. “The
AAFA represents the dominant fabric purchasers and apparel importers in the United States, and
virtually all of these companies are seeking new learning and sourcing opportunities. As the most
important global full-package sourcing event in the Americas, Material World and the AAFA share
common goals and we look forward to working together to enhance the business opportunities for all
members of the industry.” “As chairman of the AAFA, I am delighted to be supporting our proposed
alliance with Material World. Our supplier members – whether they provide materials, equipment or
computer systems – need a place to show their wares to their major customers in the Americas. The
fact that our new International Network of Sourcing Executives has fully endorsed AAFA’s
relationship with Material World means that they will be there, looking for new and better ways to
do business and for new sourcing opportunities,” adds Paul R. Charron AAFA Chairman and Chairman
and CEO of Liz Claiborne, Inc.The American ApparelandFootwear Association (AAFA) is the national
trade association representing apparel, footwear, and other sewn products companies, and their
suppliers, which compete in the global market. AAFA’s mission is to promote and enhance its
members’ competitiveness, productivity and profitability in the global market by minimizing
regulatory, commercial, political, and trade restraints. For more information visit
www.apparelandfootwear.org”There is no doubt that a show of this type must take place in the U.S. –
exposing our members to the latest developments and innovations in materials and systems, and with
the added component of available contractors in the Americas,” says Fawn Evenson, Vice President,
Global Business and Services, AAFA. “This is the show that AAFA’s members have been calling for.”
Material World is the international full-package and sourcing event for the sewn products
industries in the Americas. Material World is strategically located in Miami to take advantage of
its position as an international trading hub and the U.S. gateway to Latin America, and
headquarters of Caribbean, Central American and Mexican commerce. In addition to its attractive
location for exhibitors and attendees from throughout the United States, Miami naturally draws
traffic from all over Mexico, the Caribbean, Central America, South America, and many of the
largest sourcing operations in the United States are located in Miami. Material World is open to
the entire sewn products chain, and participants include fabric, trim, fiber, components, equipment
suppliers, supply chain management systems – from design to delivery — full-package providers,
contractors/manufacturers, publications, services (freight forwarders, financial, color/trend
forecasting), associations and others.The Material World Miami Beach attendee audience will include
key decision-makers from throughout North, Central and South America, and the Caribbean, including:
CEOs, presidents, general managers, manufacturing vice presidents, sourcing executives, product
development executives, designers, purchasing agents, marketing executives, branded apparel
companies and retailers, including mail order, private label and e-business, importers and
others.In addition to a comprehensive roster of educational programs, networking events, product,
packaging and sourcing opportunities, Material World Miami Beach will showcase a number of trend
pavilions highlighting the color, product and technological elements expected to make a splash in
Autumn/Winter 2003/2004.

Jentex Develops JENBond Adhesive Web Products

Jentex Develops JENBondAdhesive Web ProductsJentex Corp., Buford, Ga., has developed JENBond Adhesive Web products to provide increased production efficiencies and reduced environmental impact in laminating processes. Jentex can produce web and composite roll goods in widths up to 64 inches. Matt Pelham, president, said Jentex has worked to produce adhesive web products that are competitive with other products in the marketplace, but also to offer additional products with lower melt points and high bond strengths to cover a wide range of applications. Our product trials have been successful and our customers are satisfied, said Pelham. We are now making the investment to take these products [JENBond] to market.June 2002

Shelton CTI Develop Elastane Relaxation System

Shelton, CTI DevelopElastane Relaxation SystemCollaboration between Shelton Machines Ltd. and CTI, both based in the United Kingdom, has resulted in a new on-line relaxation system for elastane fabrics. The Shelton C-Tex Fabric Relaxation system allows consistent finished length and width measurement of elastic fabrics during processing. The system was developed in response to the desire of Textured Jersey, a British manufacturer of fabrics containing elastane, to supply completely relaxed fabric to its customers. It combines on-line inspection and CTIs C-Tex relaxation® technique of air flotation fabric relaxation in a single machine. Textured Jersey has purchased several of the machines. Shelton and CTI have applied jointly for a worldwide patent for the technology.July 2002

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