Government Appeals Textile Safeguard Injunction

The US Justice Department has appealed an injunction by a federal court that blocked the
Committee for the Implementation of Textile Agreements (CITA) from using a threat of market
disruption in considering safeguard petitions that could result in imposition of new import quotas
on Chinese textile and apparel imports.

Last December, the US Court of International Trade in New York issued a preliminary injunction
that enjoins CITA from accepting, considering or taking any further action on China textile
safeguard petitions based on a threat of market disruption filed by US textile manufacturers. CITA
had accepted a dozen petitions based on the threat of market disruption, which is a provision in
China’s accession to the Word Trade Organization agreement.

The United States Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel challenged CITA’s right to
use threat of market disruption charging that in accepting the petitions, CITA broke its own rules
providing for interested parties to comment on such petitions. The merits of the petitions are not
being challenged at this time, only the procedures followed by CITA. The preliminary injunction
does not affect a number of petitions pending before CITA based on what the industry says is actual
market disruption.

The federal court is likely to take at least a month to rule on the Justice Department
petition.

February 2005

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Performance In Triplicate

Shuford Mills LLC, Hickory, N.C. – in collaboration with Kappler Inc., Guntersville, Ala. – has developed a waterproof version of its Outdura™ solution-dyed acrylic fabric for outdoor applications. Outdura Trio is targeted primarily to the marine industry, but it also has potential
applications for awnings, and outdoor furniture and equipment covers, among other uses.The original Outdura fabric is breathable and water- and ultraviolet (UV)-resistant. In developing Outdura Trio, Shuford has improved on the original, replacing water resistance with waterproofness by sandwiching Kappler’s ProVent® breathable, waterproof, microporous membrane between an Outdura canvas top fabric and a brushed tricot polyester fabric, which provides a finished headliner look to the underside.

qfomfabric

 

qfomboat
Outdura™ Trio combines Shuford Mills’ original Outdura canvas, Kappler’s ProVent® membrane
and brushed tricot polyester in a fabric suitable for boat enclosures, among other
applications.

“Until now, manufacturers who wanted rich, long-lasting color had to choose between a waterproof fabric that cannot breathe or a water-resistant fabric that can breathe,” said Jeff R. Jimison, director, sales and marketing, Outdura Fabrics. “Now, with Outdura Trio, they can have it all in a waterproof, breathable blended fabric that protects from both external and internal moisture while still resisting UV damage and fading. That is an unprecedented combination.”

Kappler adapted its ProVent technology – originally developed for non woven protective barrier fabrics – to suit marine applications. “Our history and work with nonwoven composites for a wide range of protective uses led us down the path of working with woven fabrics,” said Dennis Sanders, vice president, fabric sales, Kappler Inc. Kappler experimented with different bonding processes to find the best process for bonding the film to the Outdura woven fabric and the tricot fabric.

Jimison and Sanders both stressed that all Outdura Trio components are produced domestically. The sturdy, 12.5-ounce fabric is available in nine standard canvas colors, with other colors available, and carries a five-year fabric replacement warranty. It is easily cleaned and will not mildew if kept clean.

Although it was designed primarily for marine products such as boat and cockpit covers, and convertible and Bimini tops, among other products, Jimison said other outdoor product makers have expressed interest as well. “We have been amazed at the different ideas suggested when we showed Trio to people outside the marine industry, and we anticipate adding jacquards and dobbies to the line,” he said. Among the suggested uses are pavilions; grill covers; fireplace pit covers; and
covers for high-end outdoor furniture made from teak, wicker and other such materials. “Outdura Trio is a very rich fabric, and there are a lot of possibilities,” Jimison said.


For more information about Outdura™ Trio, contact Jeff R. Jimison (866) OUTDURA.

February 2005

Super Dyeing



The latest-generation Superflux 4V/CCI + Rapid System from ATYC is used to dye yarn on
cones or bobbins; or in the shape of tops, cable or loose stock.


F
ounded in 1958, Spain-based Argelich, Termes y Cia (ATYC) S.A. is an internationally
recognized designer and manufacturer of jet-dyeing machinery and components whose equipment now is
present in 70 countries. The company has received such accolades as the

Textile World
2004 Innovation Award for its Dual System for Rapidstretch and Technodye machines
(See “Textile Innovation 2004: Technology Driving The Future,
www.TextileWorld.com,, June 2004)
. Continuing its
commitment to innovation, ATYC recently introduced the Superflux 4V/CCI + Rapid System. The new
system is a latest-generation machine used to dye yarn on cones or bobbins; or in the shape of
tops, cable or loose stock. The system has met with positive marketplace results, according to the
company.

The main characteristics of the Superflux 4V/CCI + Rapid System include the recently introduced
Superflux NE airpad system, a high-performance circulation pump, the ability to work with either a
low (1:4) or high (1:8) liquor ratio, and the new 4V dyebath circulation concept. Thanks to the 4V
concept, the dyebath flow goes directly from the pump to the autoclave with little or no loss of
pressure, which results in an increase in dyebath circulation of more than 30 percent.

This means that with the new Superflux machine, it is possible to reduce power consumption by 30
percent, while still realizing the same results achieved using conventional modern machines. This
faster dyebath circulation flow through the packages thus shortens the dyeing process.

If it is necessary to work with the same flow, as is the case with conventional dyeing machines,
a frequency converter may be utilized so the pump will consume less energy. Saving power or time
and reducing dyebath volume will reduce the cost of dyeing.

The new model also incorporates the CCI + Rapid System. The system fills and drains by means of
a pump, and the process is enhanced by a Rapid Rinsing program that operates according to the
number of liters or to the time required to complete the task. This high-performance system thus
reduces processing time, according to the company. As the machine fills with clean water at low
pressure, the autoclave automatically drains the dirty water, without recirculating the dirty water
back through the pump.

The CCI system features an integrated dye kitchen that uses two tanks equipped with the
necessary elements to prepare and automatically add the dyestuff and chemical products. This system
eliminates the necessity for a separate dye kitchen. Both tanks use the MODATYC system for linear
or exponential mode addition of dyebath chemicals. One of the tanks may be used to automatically
dissolve and add in salt or sodium sulfate.

ATYC reports it is possible to achieve high-quality dyeing and significant cost savings using
the Superflux 4V/CCI + Rapid System because of the shortened processing time and reduced power
consumption.

February 2005

Premier Pneumatics Offers ProRate/Gravimetric Feeder

Premier Pneumatics Inc., Salina, Kan., now offers the ProRate/Gravimetric Feeder for the handling
of plastic pellets and regrind. The machine comprises one to eight independently operating feeders
and a central microprocessor-based proprietary controller. The feeder is designed to provide
accurate, continuous measurement of raw materials into a central station hopper.

ProRate/Gravimetric Feederfrom Premier Pneumatics

The ProRate/Gravimetric Feeder features a production capacity of up to 80,000 pounds per hour
and easy recipe selection, storage and editing, according to the company. Inventory and usage data
may be displayed or sent to a printer.

February 2005

Impregion Offers UltraCombo Idler Roll

Impreglon USA, Fairburn, Ga., reports its new UltraCombo ultra-light idler rolls offer a very
cost-effective yet durable alternative to conventional carbon-fiber composite or thin-walled
aluminum rolls used in nonwovens and other manufacturing processes. According to the company, the
UltraCombo is so economical that it can be disposed of at the end of its useful life, eliminating
the need for costly and time-consuming reprocessing associated with conventional rolls.

UltraCombo idler rolls are now available from Impreglon USA.

The UltraCombo idler rolls are coated with Impreglon’s PlasmaCoat 60531/4001F to provide maximum
non-stick and traction properties, or they may be specially coated to a customer’s specifications
for a particular application. Other features include light weight that provides low inertia,
strength comparable to conventional rolls and a production speed capability of 3,000 feet per
minute. In addition, roll inventory programs may be specified in order to reduce the manufacturer’s
downtime.

February 2005

Quality First


Giacomo Garbagnati manufactures high-quality linen and cotton tablecloths, which it
supplies to leading restaurants throughout Italy.


G
iacomo Garbagnati S.p.A., Italy, recently received its third Monforts tenter – one of the
first of the recently introduced Montex 6000 models – as the final phase of a 17 million euro
investment program.

Established in 1907 as a bleaching specialist using traditional outdoor dyeing methods, the
company has earned a reputation for high-quality cotton and linen for household fabrics and
apparel.

“We quickly recognized the need to modernize the complete production facility and introduce new
management techniques,” said GennAndrea Mancone, president. “Coinciding with Italy’s worst downturn
in the textile industry [in] more than 25 years, we needed to implement some radical changes.”

The company recognized the days of long runs per article, or even per color, were past. Today,
within the Italian textile industry, there is a growing demand for flexible production with smaller
runs and shorter delivery times at the lowest possible cost. Therefore, the company had to seek
these newer, small-run niche markets.

Garbagnati had no management system in place to measure its productivity and repeat quality
performance, [as it was] still operating under traditional methods, Mancone said. “We quickly
learned that it would be necessary to implement a flow planning system if we were to improve our
efficiency with a machine setup and production times for right-on-time deliveries and repeat
quality finishing.”

The company also introduced up-to-date techniques for its bleaching and finishing operations to
enhance its reputation for high quality. Innovations included a patented formula to ensure a
special high intensity of white with a high durable-pilling resistance for its cotton bed
linens.

Garbagnati also has continued to maintain some of its former long runs, annually producing 4
million meters of high-quality linen in up to 10,000-meter runs. It also features its own garba
soft finishing process – a new continuous biochemical process that provides a softer, puffy
finish.


Production Systems

Garbagnati produces almost 75,000 meters per day of 100 grams-per-square-meter (gm/m2) to 400
gm/m2 linen and cotton in widths of 0.5 meters to 3.4 meters. Its finished cotton and linen is
supplied to leading Italian brands such as Frette, Bellora, Graziano and Benetton; with, for
example, Frette supplying leading hotel chains with quality bed linen.

The finest damask or Flanders linen and cotton tablecloths are supplied to leading restaurants
throughout Italy.

In 1998, Garbagnati also introduced a new finishing line for sportswear using a combination of
cotton, Lycra® and nylon for stretch fabrics.

Garbagnati recently installed the new Montex 6000 tenter as part of the final phase of a 17
million euro investment program.

The company currently supplies finished fabric to converters for Boss, Benetton and Replay,
among other brands. “Today, we specialize in customized, noncontinuous methods, supplying single
orders of between 200 and 1,000 meters,” Mancone said.


The Key To Success

At the heart of Garbagnati’s finishing lines are three Monforts tenters. The first two with
working widths of 2.2 meters and 3.4 meters were installed in 1997 along with a Monforts
sanforizing unit. In 1999, the company took delivery of a Monforts padbatch dyeing unit and now has
completed its current investment program with the installation of the Montex 6000 tenter.

The Montex 6000 is suitable for treatment of woven and knitted fabrics, and offers the choice
between horizontal and vertical chain return, plus a host of new and improved features. These
features were designed to improve performance, operation and maintenance; and to reduce operating
costs. Easy access to all main control and operating functions is possible via a touchscreen
monitor at eye level, thus eliminating the traditional overhead bridge. A simple menu system guides
the operator through the setup procedure.

Incorporating Monforts proven Qualitex programmable logic control system ensures that important
operating parameters and tension for fabric transfer devices can be set and monitored using the
touchscreen. The system also is able to include storage of setup data, batch management and network
interfacing – all essential criteria in Garbagnati’s constant quest for quality.

“Quality is everything,” Mancone explained. “We provide high-quality production at low speeds,
yet when necessary, the Monforts [tenter] will allow us to increase the speed and maintain a
consistent high-quality finish.”

Mancone also mentioned an additional key to the success of the company the after-sales service
provided by Monforts, endorsed by the local Monforts representative, Sacconghi Monaco S.r.l.

“Monforts is always on hand to assist with new techniques and problem solving, managing spare
parts [and] upgrading and training staff,” Mancone said.

February 2005

Branding – Not Just For Cattle Ranchers



B
randing a product to distinguish it from all others is something cattle ranchers have
done for years, with a single mark creating immediate awareness. Branding has become a watchword in
recent years, with marketing and communications specialists offering varying, often complicated
definitions that confuse business owners as to the meaning and importance of a brand.

Simply put, branding means brand name awareness, and brand name awareness equals
credibility. Awareness of your brand means there is confidence in your company and, ultimately, in
your products.

Many people purchase products or services simply because they are familiar with the name,
knowing little about features, benefits or price. While brand name awareness does not automatically
ensure sales, you have a tremendous advantage over companies in your product category if you work
toward building your company as a brand.


Consistent Message

A company brands itself by developing a consistent, constant marketing message. Repetition may
come from frequent advertising, repeated articles or news briefs in the media, constant exposure to
your company logo, or preferably, a combination of all of these. Your corporate identity can be
your most valuable asset and can make a major contribution to your brand success, but it must be
managed effectively.

The most favorable corporate identity is established with every form of internal and external
corporate communications presented in the same manner. By developing and presenting a consistent
company message, you will reduce the need and costs of building individual brands with new or
improved product introductions.


Company Logo

Your company logo should appear on all forms of corporate communications — letterhead and
envelopes, brochures, business cards, invoices, ads, company vehicles, apparel worn by delivery or
service personnel, and your website, among other items. Never miss an opportunity to promote your
identity. Your company name and logo identify your products and services and differentiate you and
your products from those of competitors. This is the beginning of building your brand.

Remember, a brand is a perception in the mind of the buyer. Your logo, when seen frequently
and in a consistent manner, becomes a symbol of your company’s credibility in the marketplace. When
executed effectively, your company name will become synonymous with your marketing message and
point of differentiation.


Differentiate Or Die

Marketing guru Jack Trout chose this as the title of his 2000 book subtitled “Survival in Our
Era of Killer Competition.” The dramatic increase of choices in just about every product category
in recent decades has forever changed the way companies do business. This proliferation coupled
with a dramatic increase in communication media — which now include the Internet, hundreds of new
cable and satellite television stations, and even movie theatres — leaves many buyers and sellers
scratching their heads.

The average American is exposed to about 3,000 advertising messages per day as corporations
globally spend more than $620 billion annually to build their brands, according to the Newspaper
Association of America.

Companies compete in this era of killer competition by differentiating. Differentiation
defines a company and distinguishes it from all others. Identifying your company’s competitive
advantage is first and foremost in the branding effort. If you try to be all things to all buyers,
you quickly undermine what makes you different. You must determine and concentrate on your
distinctive attribute, and establish that as your marketing message.

You can differentiate yourself from your competition in several ways — place, price,
promotion, people, product, service, selection, quality, convenience and speed. Are you less
expensive, more durable, faster, and/or more flexible? You can differentiate anything, but remember
that in today’s business environment, everyone promises the best quality and service. Your products
and services are made greater by giving the customers more than they expect. For example, Otis
Elevator Co. uses remote diagnostics as its point of differentiation. In high-traffic buildings
where servicing elevators is an inconvenience, Otis uses remote diagnostics capabilities to predict
possible service interruptions, sending employees to perform preventive maintenance in the evenings
when traffic is light.


Lasting Brand Name Awareness

Once you’ve developed a marketing message and a point of differentiation, it’s time to put these
tools to frequent use. Brand name awareness of the highest quality is a lasting awareness. A
potential customer can read one of your marketing messages and remember your name for a week or so,
but if the would-be buyer is not exposed to your message repeatedly, he or she forgets it and moves
on.


Peden Companies Build Their Brand On Service

In today’s crowded marketplace, many companies use the service attribute as a way to
differentiate themselves from the competition. For Peden Textile Equipment Co. and John W. Peden
Co. Inc., that point of differentiation has helped the small, family-owned businesses establish
their niche in a volatile industry.

“Whether you drive a Chevrolet or a Mercedes, if that car is always in the shop, pretty soon
you’re going to change brands and dealerships,” said Warren Peden, president of the
Greenville-based companies that sell and service warp-tying machinery. “When a machine is down on
the weave room floor, customers don’t want to hear that you don’t have the parts in stock [nor] the
technical ability to fix it.”

An inventory of spare parts, the technical expertise to make repairs, and immediate response
to service demands have made Peden Textile Equipment the go-to company as textile plants have
downsized in recent years. While the company sells only Japanese-made Todo equipment, it is called
upon to service many other different brands.

“As mills have leaned down in order to compete, a lot of them have lost their technical
talent,” Peden explained. “They’ve come to depend on us more and more because their institutional
knowledge often is lost in management turnover and downsizing.”

It’s that institutional knowledge that Peden believes sets his companies apart. “We sell
ourselves on the weave room floor.” he said. “I think in today’s environment, a lot of companies
spend more time building spreadsheets than in the weave room figuring out what’s wrong and how to
fix it. We learned the ways that Grandpa did it, and we’ve built our reputation on it.”

For Peden, institutional learning began in 1988 when his father bought a textile equipment
company. “The former manager was to stay on for five years, and he left after two months,” Peden
said. “I was 23 years old trying to sell equipment to men who had been in the business for years,
and I quickly realized I’d better know what I was talking about.”

So the younger Peden went into the mill to learn the business from the bottom up — the
mechanics of the machinery, the labor aspect and the personality of the industry. That thirst for
knowledge and commitment to service has served Peden well over the years. The small company of nine
employees today serves customers all over the world and goes head to head with some of the largest
machinery makers in the business.

Peden also concentrates on doing business primarily with smaller, family-owned mills and has
made a commitment to remain debt-free. But he is quick to credit Milliken & Company,
Spartanburg, for helping his company develop its immediate response capabilities.

“Milliken was one of the first companies to put their faith in us. We developed a lot of our
immediate response expertise around what Milliken required,” Peden said.

In an industry marked by bankruptcies and huge job losses in recent years, the Peden
companies have downsized less than 30 percent over the last five years. 


“A friend once told me that it’s better to be underestimated and over-deliver than
overestimated and under-deliver,” Peden said. “Your product and service are much better when you
give the customer more than they expect.”





February 2005







February 2005


Patrick J. Momony
has joined Redmond, Wash.-based
Orca Photonic Systems as a senior consultant for the business and technical
development of industrial laser-cutting applications.

pat

Momony


The Basic Bedding Division of
WestPoint Stevens Inc., West Point, Ga., has promoted

Jackie Zutler
to director, marketing; and

Shazia Shah
to product manager, sourcing.

Aimee Ferraro
has been named product manager, sourcing.


Robert McCormack
has joined New York City-based
Kaltex America Inc. as president and CEO.


Stephen F. Powers
has joined
Kellwood Co., St. Louis, as president and CEO of the company’s Koret division.

powers

Powers

Wilmington, Del.-based
INVISTA™ Inc. has named

Jon Penrice
vice president, Lycra® brand, in addition to his current position as vice president,
marketing, Apparel. The company also has appointed

William Yeoh
vice president, Apparel, China/Hong Kong; and

Jong Se Kim
vice president, Apparel, Asia.

Marietta, Ga.-based
YKK Corp. of America has appointed

Yvan Jutras
president, YKK Canada Inc.

jutras

Jutras

Avondale Mills Inc., Monroe, Ga., has appointed

Dominic P. Colapietro
vice president, workwear, Apparel Fabrics;

Anthony F. Strickland
vice president, sportswear, Apparel Fabrics; and

George W. Lansdowne Jr.
vice president, piece-dyed business development.

Neuenhauser Inc., Greer, S.C., has named

Markus Heinis
president, Textile Division; and

Kathy Jones
executive assistant.

Chuck Holmes
now is responsible for sales in the southeastern part of South Carolina, Georgia,
Alabama, Texas and the Midwest. The company also has appointed

Tommy Loftin
to assist customers with spare parts and technical services; and has named

Tim Berry
and

Garry Wagner
to provide technical service and machine repair.

Clifton, N.J.-based
Mayer Textile Machine Corp. has named

Tony Hooimeijer
president.

North Charleston, S.C.-based
Polymer Group Inc. (PGI) has appointed CEO

James L. Schaeffer
to the Board of Directors. The Chicopee division of PGI has named

Scott Tracey
vice president, sales and marketing; and Larry Archer group marketing director.

Meredith, N.H.-based
Vutek Inc. has named

Philippe Carron
European managing director.


phillippe


Carron

Mason, Ohio-based
Clopay Plastics Product Co. has named the following people to its new business
development team:

David Bland, Ph.D.
, director, new business technology;

Nicole Gerwe
, associate scientist; and

Chris Faust
, sales and marketing representative.


Louis P. Batson Co., Greenville, has named

Terry Vogt
, area sales manager with responsibility for Alabama, Tennessee, southern Georgia and
eastern Mississippi. The company also announced that

John G. Burch Jr.
, , area sales manager, has been inducted into the Manchester Who’s Who Executive and
Professional Registry.

eBridge Technologies Inc., Greenville, has named

Richard Mullinax
, project manager.

mullinax

Mullinax

New York City-based
Li & Fung USA has named

Tony Vieira
design director, Cannon® and Cannon Royal Family® global licenses.

Miami-based
Perry Ellis International Inc. has named

George Pita
CFO.

Cotton Incorporated, New York City, has promoted

Paula G. Rosario
to vice president, retail and fashion marketing.

paula

Rosario


Charlotte-based
Sato America Inc. has appointed

Phil Koch
marketing manager.

Prospect Hill, N.C.-based
Royal Park Uniforms Inc. has promoted

Barbara Parker
to vice president, operations. The company has appointed

Chuck Grady
planner and industrial engineer.

February 2005

In Memoriam: Hans Trützschler 1927-2004


hans_Copy

Hans Trützschler, managing partner, Trützschler GmbH and Co. KG, Germany, died Dec. 19, 2004, at
the age of 77.

Trützschler, together with his cousin, Hermann Trützschler, re-established the company in
Monchengladbach following World War II in 1948, expropriating the original company that had been
founded in Saxony in 1888 by Paul Heinrich Trützschler and Bruno Gey for the production of fiber
preparation machinery. Under the two cousins’ leadership, the company became a global leader in the
production of such machinery including high-production cards, reaching into the nonwovens and
technical textiles sector as well.

From 1958 to 2000, Hans Trützschler served the German Engineering Federation
(VDMA). Chairing its Textile Machinery Section from 1976 to 1989, he fostered the globalization of
the German textile machinery sector.
He also was involved in the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers
(CEMATEX) from 1976 to 1995, serving as its vice president for 10 years and as president of the
Organization Committee that was responsible for ITMA 1991, held in Hannover, Germany.
Trützschler served his local community as a member of the German Metal Industry
Advisory Committee and the General Assembly of the Chamber of Industry and Commerce, as a lay judge
at the Labor Court, and on the Executive Board of the Walter Reiners Foundation. Trützschler
received the Order of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany for his personal commitment and
services.

February 2005

NCTO Releases Report Calls For Government Commitment To Industry

In its year-end economic report for 2004, the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO),
Washington, reported that job losses and mill closings continued, but at a slower pace than the
previous year because US government-imposed safeguards limiting importation levels for knit fabric,
dressing gowns and brassieres from China went into effect at the end of 2003. The report stated US
textile and apparel companies shed 32,100 jobs in 2004, bringing the total down to 676,500. At
least 30 US textile facilities shut down during the year.

At the same time, textile corporate sales rose by 5.7 percent to $37.2 billion in 2004.
After-tax profits totaled $685 million, or 1.8 percent of sales, in 2004. Textile mill shipments
declined 6 percent to $34.3 billion. The safeguard action, allowed under the terms of China’s World
Trade Organization accession agreement, limited growth of imports from China in the above-noted
categories, which had been removed from quota restraints, to 7.5 percent over 2003 levels. By
contrast, NCTO said, imports of other Chinese apparel products no longer under quota grew from 9
percent of the US market in 2001 to more than 73 percent in 2004. China’s total share of the US
textile and apparel import market amounted to 25 percent in 2004.]

NCTO projects price drops of 50 percent and higher for Chinese textile and apparel products no
longer under quota, and blames China’s advantage on unfair and illegal trading practices. It warns
the remaining US textile and apparel jobs and 30 million such jobs globally could be lost if the US
government does not act to force China to stem these practices.

“The US textile and apparel industry has invested billions of dollars in order to improve
productivity, and has become one of the most highly automated and advanced manufacturing sectors in
our economy,” said Allen E. Gant, chairman, NCTO. “Nonetheless, our industry cannot be expected to
compete against countries whose governments continue to ignore international rules and obligations
by using unfair and illegal trading practices to gain market share.

“[I]t is critical that our government fulfills its commitment to this industry by working
expeditiously to overturn the recent injunction by the Court of International Trade so that action
can quickly be taken to approve our threat-based safeguard petitions,” he continued, referring to
the courts recent injunction blocking such actions.

February 2005

Sponsors