DyStar Celebrates 115 Years Of Technical Indigo Synthesis With The Expansion Of Its Indigo Production Capacity In Nanjing

SINGAPORE — July 12, 2012 —  DyStar and its owner, the Zhejiang Longsheng Group, celebrate 115
years of technical Indigo synthesis at Ludwigshafen, Germany, where the first commercially feasible
manufacturing process was launched. 

 

The history of synthetic Indigo goes all the way back to 1897, with the introduction of,
“pure indigo” from BASF. Demand for synthetic Indigo dyes was so huge that by 1913, natural indigo
had been almost entirely replaced. To date, more than 260,000 tons of the dye has been produced at
the Ludwigshafen production plant. This is sufficient to dye about 26 billion pairs of jeans which,
if lined up end-to-end, would cover the distance from the earth to the moon 87 times. 

 

With its patented DyStar Indigo® Vat 40% Solution, DyStar has contributed to the continuing
success story of synthetic Indigo. “Pre-Reduced Indigo is a very consistent and clean type dye”
notes Dean Barley, Denim Dye Department Manager from Mount Vernon Mills. “Having a consistently
clean Indigo helps us produce more first quality denim day in, and day out. More first quality
goods also generate more money to the bottom line.” 

 

The constant improvement of the manufacturing process over the years has paved the way for
DyStar’s current success. The numbers speak for themselves with double digit growth rates in the
major denim manufacturing areas e.g. 40% growth in South Asia. 

 

“In anticipation of greater demand for DyStar Indigo® Vat 40% Solution and an increased
market share, the DyStar Group is planning to expand capacity at its Nanjing Indigo plant in
China,” said Harry Dobrowolski, CEO of the DyStar Group. The expansion reaffirms DyStar’s
commitment to the denim industry.

 

As global awareness of environmental issues created by the textile supply chain increases,
Brands, Retailers and their industry partners are looking for more sustainable solutions for their
businesses. With the recently announced project to develop electrochemical dyeing of Indigo in
collaboration with RedElec, DyStar is maintaining its position as the leading sustainable solution
provider. 

Posted on July 17, 2012

Source: DyStar

Karl Mayer Develops The TM 4 T-EL Tricot Machine

Germany-based Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik recently introduced the TM 4 T-EL four-bar terry
tricot machine, which features integrated electronic guide bar control (EL) and the KAMCOS® Motion
Control/Multi Speed system for extended design capabilities. Options for the single- or
double-sided loop-pile fabrics include smooth edges, relief-like ribs and 3-D chessboard patterns
with large repeats if desired. The fabrics are suitable for the production of beach towels and
textiles for cleaning products. Additional design elements – such as cord-like rib constructions,
rectangular patterns in different sizes, flat edges and multicolored effects – can be created in
the vertical flat stripes by selecting the appropriate threading-in arrangement. Flat edges may be
sewn into hems, or embroidered with a trademark. According to the company, the warp-knitted terry
cloth fabrics have a soft feel with firmly anchored loops.

The machine runs at 1,400 meters per minute (m/min), and features electronic controls for
yarn let-off, ground guide bars and fabric take-down. All machine parameters and data can be input
using the touchscreen controls, with a USB stick or via the manufacturer’s computer network.

The company plans to launch a version of the machine for cotton processing. The TM 4-TS EL
should be available during quarter 4 2013.

July 10, 2012

The Rupp Report: ITMA Asia + CITME 2012: The Important Weaving Machinery Sector

After the general impression reported two weeks ago of the third ITMA Asia + CITME at the Shanghai
New International Expo Centre, the Rupp Report this week begins reflecting on the various executive
interviews with machinery manufacturers. Weaving machinery representatives will open the review.
The Rupp Report talked to Carlo Rogora, CEO, and Jürg Kundert, corporate communications, Itema
(Switzerland) Ltd. (Itema Weaving); and Erwin Devloo, marketing communications manager,
Belgium-based Picanol NV.

Soaring Weaving Machinery Sales

Several weeks ago, the Rupp Report posted the latest weaving machinery shipment statistics
compiled by the Switzerland-based International Textile Machinery Federation, which reported that
worldwide shipments in 2011 of shuttleless weaving machines continued to soar, with Asia the
destination for 96 percent of the machinery — and China taking 83 percent of the total
(See ”
The
Rupp Report: Positive News Ahead For ITMA Asia + CITME 2012,”
TextileWorld.com, May 22, 2012).

Expectations Fulfilled

Rogora and Devloo expressed their satisfaction with the visits at ITMA Asia as well as the
quality of the visitors: “The most important customers from the region were here,” said Rogora.
Devloo added that “as usual, the first three days were okay for Picanol.” And where did the
visitors come from? Both agreed that 75 to 80 percent of all visitors came from China, followed by
people from India, Pakistan, Indonesia and Taiwan; and some visitors from Turkey.

Rogora added: “India as a market for weaving machines becomes more and more important,
thanks to the recent investment program. But to carry on with this, the industry needs new
incentives from the government.”



Too Many People

And was there any difference between this ITMA Asia and the last one? “Oh yes,” Devloo said,
“this time, for everything we had to contact different organizations and people, which complicates
the handling of the event drastically. And everything is extremely expensive. Soon the day will
come when we will have to pay for the air that we breathe.”

These facts were confirmed by Kundert, who was responsible for setting up the Itema booth,
and who noted that “the funny thing is, we have to pay everything in cash.”

But the biggest problem was the infringement of intellectual property. It was at the Picanol
booth, where the Rupp Report witnessed the handling of a copy of a Picanol weaving machine. Just
opposite, a copy with even the same color was shown. After the protest from Picanol about this
situation, the organizers covered the copy. However, soon afterward, the Chinese exhibitor took
away the cover and wrote on the machine (in Chinese letters): “Picanol says this is a copy of their
machine. Have a look and check if this is right.”

Feedback

Picanol showed for the first time on the Asian continent its new Omniplus Summum air-jet
weaving machine. Devloo explained that this machine would be the new platform for further
developments in this segment. The main highlights of this machine are said to be the new insertion
system and the Picanol BlueBox system, the new electronic platform for Picanol machines. Devloo
mentioned that this microprocessor is 10 times faster than comparable processors. Thanks to this
improvement, the airflow is constantly monitored over the whole weft-insertion process, resulting
in reduced air consumption.

Itema presented its new Sultex A9500 air-jet weaving machine. The main features, Kundert
said, are the productivity and operational simplicity with its high performance and simplified
design. Rogora added that “the A9500 produces excellent fabric quality with very low air
consumption. The machine is equipped with a special shed geometry designed to promote a long dwell
while drastically reducing air consumption. The long weft insertion time and the highly efficient
nozzles ensure the optimum acceleration curve for any type of yarn.” According to Itema, the new
air-jet weaving machine is especially suitable for medium to heavy denim, colored weaving and
sheeting applications.

And how was the feedback to these products? “Very good,” reported both suppliers.



Important Markets

In spite of the growing importance of the Asian markets, Europe is still important for both
companies. For Picanol, it is important mainly for weaving technical textiles and other value-added
products, especially for European customers.

“And,” said Rogora, “if one includes Turkey as part of Europe, then the Turkish market is
very important for us. Turkey is the second-biggest market for Itema. On the other hand, Asian
markets are more important for mass products.”

The most important markets are rather similar: Rogora mentioned China, followed by Turkey
and Brazil. Devloo mentioned China, India, Brazil and the former Soviet Union countries.

When asked if the actual economical situation is distorting their business, both companies
replied “Yes and no.” The volatile currencies are a problem. One factor is the weak euro.
“However,” said Devloo, “for exporting European suppliers, the low exchange rate for the currency
is an advantage.”

Rogora added: “But today, the customers have problems getting money from the banks due to
the big problems in Europe. As long as the Europeans cannot solve their internal financial problems
with some countries, the uncertainty will remain. And uncertainty is poison for the markets.”



The Chinese Market

The Chinese market is slowing down somewhat on a high level. Rogora and Devloo did not see
any stimulation from the recent reduction of interest rates by the Chinese National Bank. Both
mentioned that whether or not the importance of the Chinese market will further increase depends on
Europe. And the Chinese customers want more and more sophisticated machinery.

A Look Into The Crystal Ball

Estimation for 2013 is quite difficult to predict, Devloo said. “But we hope that the
positive conditions will remain.”

And, Rogora added: “Again, it all depends on Europe. Problems are everywhere, but the
financial situation in Europe must be solved first.”

And what are the focal points for Itema in the next few years? “I am convinced that the
air-jet technology will enhance its importance in the near future,” Rogora said. “Today, this
technology is mature. However, some special applications for rapier will increase. We have to do a
lot of R&D. The A9500 is the sum of Sulzer, Vamatex and Somet. Those companies are now in the
past and we are itema today – in small letters. We want to deliver the best possible machines for
our customers’ applications regarding energy consumption and maintenance.”

Devloo said: “Do what you can do best, no experiments, stay with your roots and you will
succeed.”

Thanks For The Feedback

The Rupp Report would like to thank all readers for a strong feedback on the June 26 report.
Please continue sending in your opinions about the future of ITMA Asia to
jrupp@textileworld.com. As usual, the source of
information will not be published if you do not wish to be named.



July 10, 2012

Clariant Launches Arkophob® FFR Textile Finish

Switzerland-based specialty chemicals manufacturer Clariant International AG now offers Arkophob®
FFR, a long-lasting, fluorine-free water repellent finish targeted to fabrics used in outdoor,
leisure and sportswear applications.

Arkophob® FFR is based on a dispersion of modified fat compounds and, according to Clariant,
offers water repellency levels similar to that of C6-based fluorochemical finishes but superior to
water repellency levels offered by existing fluorine-free finishes on the market. In addition, the
finish provides fabrics with good washfastness; improved abrasion and tear resistance, and
sewability; and a soft hand.

“Clariant’s Textile Chemicals is committed to develop products and processes that are safer
and gentler for the consumer and for the environment; and with Arkophob FFR we have achieved that,
plus a leap forward in performance,” said Georg Lang, head of Product Group Finishing, Business
Unit Textile Chemicals, Clariant. “We perfected the Arkophob FFR technology over several years, to
ensure we were able to introduce a differentiated solution that delivers what it promises to
retailers and brands.”

July 10, 2012

Uster Technologies Launches The New USTER® CLASSIMAT 5

USTER, Switzerland — July 3, 2012 — Uster Technologies Ltd launches a new CLASSIMAT® classification
system. The USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 takes quality assurance to a new level, enabling a deeper
understanding of defects and their causes – and finding ways to prevent them. Innovative features
and capabilities can pinpoint outliers, providing consistent quality levels for both producers and
users of yarns.

Parameters measured by the USTER® CLASSIMAT have played a vital role in spinning mills and
yarn trading worldwide since the instrument was first developed more than 40 years ago. The
classification of yarn defects according to their size and length into 23 standard classes is used
extensively to certify yarn quality, to help control spinning processes and to optimize yarn
clearing at the winding stage. In the meantime, quality demands have increased enormously. While
fault classification based on the well-proven analysis of thick and thin places remains
fundamental, it must now also cover critical parameters such as foreign matter, count variation,
periodic faults, unevenness and hairiness. An important quality management aspect that has grown
rapidly in significance is the need for consistent quality as much as absolute quality. This
demands critical new tools for large-scale production, to assess extreme deviations from the
quality norm – referred to as outliers.

Classifying all outliers

Addressing these requirements, USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 delivers all the traditional
classification standards, while broadening its scope to include outliers, which are often the root
cause of claims and inconsistent yarn quality. USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 for the first time detects and
quantifies outliers for periodic faults, evenness, imperfections and hairiness, in addition to
critical thick and thin places.

The USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 is the tool of choice for those who want to understand the nature and
sources of these defects and to develop preventive strategies. Especially important are its
powerful foreign matter tools for assessing colored foreign fibers, vegetable matter and – for the
first time – polypropylene content.

Powerful analysis capabilities

The full range of quality measurements handled by USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 is complemented by
powerful analytical tools. USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 integrates a clearing limit analysis feature, which
can estimate and display the applied clearing limit for the yarn, as well as providing an index to
optimize the clearing limit in each area, including foreign matter. Yarns from different lots or
suppliers can now be compared, to identify the best and the next best quality levels, with detailed
figures available at a click – and presented as intuitive color codings.

State-of-the-art technology

These customer benefits are possible thanks to the most technically-advanced sensors and
superior hardware for detection and eventual classification of all types of defects. For the first
time, USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 measurements are independent of the machine or test speed variations. The
unique mounting module includes a special cleaning facility to prevent dirt and fluff in the
measuring zone. An array of guides and a tension control also ensure highest accuracy in foreign
matter classification.

Dr Geoffrey Scott, CEO of Uster Technologies Ltd, comments: “We are proud to offer the new
generation of CLASSIMAT® to the textile industry. The USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 brings quality assurance
to a new level, introducing an unrivaled range of new features and capabilities. It is not only an
indispensable precision tool for both producers and users of yarns, it is also transforming the
industry.”

Posted on July 10, 2012

Source: Uster Technologies AG

FilSpec Spins Thermo°Cool® Yarns For American Market

Sherbrooke, Canada-based yarn spinner FilSpec Inc. is now offering Thermo°Cool® staple yarn to the
American market through an exclusive cooperation with Thermo°Cool technology developer and
polyester fiber manufacturer Advansa BV, the Netherlands. The yarns are targeted to performance
sportswear as well as everyday comfort applications.

Thermo°Cool’s Duoregulation® technology combines hollow core fiber and channeled cross
sections to offer both thermobuffering and evaporative cooling benefits as needed to maintain
wearer comfort through varying levels of activity.

FilSpec is spinning the yarn at its manufacturing facilities in Sherbrooke and Ellerbe, N.C.



July 10, 2012

Home Source International Set To Open USA Manufacturing Plant

ATLANTA — June 27, 2012 — Home Source International has collaborated with the State of Florida to
build a 300,000 sq ft facility in Marianna, Fl.  The plant, slated to open this summer, will
host manufacturing operations for cut-and-sew home textiles, as well as furniture and lighting to
support Home Source’s newest acquisition, Shiner International.

Home Source’s strategic initiatives for this facility include better servicing the retail and
hospitality industries with differentiated, unique, and innovative product at advantageous cost, in
addition to better lead times, quicker turnaround, smaller minimums, and more flexible supply chain
logistics and replenishment.

“We are proud to once again bring ‘Crafted with Pride in the USA’ back to these industries,
as well as the people who once earned their living manufacturing home textiles and furnishings,”
said Keith Sorgeloos, President and CEO of Home Source International.  “Home Source looks
forward to many years of success in building a business and community the old-fashioned way . . .
supporting ‘Made in USA’ and American jobs.”

Posted on July 10, 2012

Source: Home Source International

FTC Issues Staff Opinion For Crailar “Flax” Designation On Products

VICTORIA, B.C. and PORTLAND, Ore. — July 9, 2012 — The Federal Trade Commission has issued a staff
opinion that Naturally Advanced Technologies Inc. (“NAT” or the “Company”) (TSXV: NAT) (OTCBB:
NADVF), which produces and markets CRAiLAR® Flax Fiber, will merchandise products with a generic
“flax” designation on content labels, rather than linen, lending further definition to the unique
nature of the process and the Company’s resulting product.

In a letter dated June 26, 2012, the FTC wrote: 

“Based on the information about the CRAiLAR® process and the attributes of the fibers you
provide in your letter, we conclude that describing these fibers as flax on labels attached to
textile fiber products made from the fibers would comply with the Rules.  We also conclude
that describing these fibers as linen rather than flax could mislead or deceive consumers.  We
base these conclusions on your assertions that the CRAiLAR® process involves a manner of obtaining
flax fibers that does not chemically alter them, that the attributes of the fibers differ from
those of linen, and that international standards and practice as well as the U.S. government
recognize the use of the term “flax” to describe flax fibers that have not been chemically
changed.” 

“This is an important step in defining the groundbreaking nature of CRAiLAR,” said Jay
Nalbach, Chief Marketing Officer of NAT. “Our process results in a pure flax product that feels and
can be cared for like cotton, and we believe that articulating that at retail is an important part
of the unique brand proposition for CRAiLAR Flax, to the merchandising opportunities of our partner
brands, and to the relationship we intend to build with consumers.” 

NAT today supplies its CRAiLAR Flax to HanesBrands, Georgia-Pacific, and Brilliant Global
Knitwear for commercial use, and to Levi Strauss  Co., Cintas, Carhartt, Ashland, Westex,
Target and PVH Corp for evaluation and development. NAT is in construction on its first full-scale
production facility in Pamplico, South Carolina, and anticipates it will be delivering fiber from
the facility in Q3 2012. It will partner with Tintoria Piana and Barnhardt Manufacturing on the
processing of that fiber.

Posted on July 10, 2012

Source: Naturally Advanced Technologies

Italian Textile Machinery Industry Called To Test For Sustainability

MILAN — July 2012 — The last edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME provided positive indications for Italian
exhibitors, in spite of the current uncertain economic outlook. The Italian green label
certification initiative was greeted with special appreciation.

“The third edition of ITMA Asia + CITME, which came to a close on June 16 in Shanghai
confirmed our expectations,” states Sandro Salmoiraghi, president of ACIMIT (Association of Italian
Textile Machinery Manufacturers). “The leading markets for our manufacturers were largely stalled
over this first part of the year, and a general mood of economic uncertainty could be perceived
even during the trade fair in Shanghai. Investments in new technologies are proceeding very slowly
in all markets.”

However, the current economic situation did not prevent Italian businesses from playing an
essential role at ITMA Asia + CITME 2012, with a total of 115 exhibitors representing Italy. In
terms of occupied surface area, Italy came in third overall (7%), covering a net total of 4700
square meters, behind the Chinese exhibitors (60% net surface area) and Germans (9%).

In particular, both Chinese and foreign visitors appreciated the commitment of the Italian
textile machinery industry on the issue of sustainability. To this end, at the usual ACIMIT press
conference held during the event, the Association presented the ACIMIT green label certification.
As Salmoiraghi explains, “The self-certification process for energy and environmental performances
for each piece of machinery was provided by RINA, an international certification body, which,
together with ACIMIT, defined and validated the specifications for the issuing of green labels, and
is also responsible for monitoring their correct application, thereby guaranteeing the accuracy of
the specified performance indications.”

Every year, a sampling of 20% of the companies taking part in the initiative must undergo an
inspection conducted by RINA (www.rina.org), which monitors the procedures applied for the
measurement of parameters, as well as the operating conditions of the machines affected by the
labelling process. The certification body then issues a specific certificate of conformity for all
machinery that passes these controls. The RINA control sample for green labels released provides a
guarantee for all green labels produced in accordance with ACIMIT specifications.

For the 2012 sample control certification process, the following RINA-checked ACIMIT members
companies were present at the press conference in Shanghai: Flainox, Itema, Jaeggli, Reggiani,
Santoni, Tonello.

“We believe that the certification of our label is an innovative element which ACIMIT has
brought to the debate on sustainability for productions processes,” concludes Salmoiraghi. “Our
proposal stands out for its concreteness, and in the future we’d like to see other European textile
machinery associations join us in this project.”



Posted on July 10, 2012

Source: ACIMIT

BRÜCKNER Supplies High-Tech Line To The Turkish Carpet Giant DINARSU

LEONBERG, Germany — June 2012 — Dinarsu Imalat ve Ticaret T.A.Ş has been established in 1955 in
Istanbul for the production of yarn and blankets. In 1975 they began to produce tufting carpets and
Dinarsu developed to one of the moste important industrial complexes in Turkey. In the meantime the
company finished about 10 million m² of floor covering every year, for example tufting carpets,
nonwoven carpets and artifical lawn.

Dinarsu produces high-quality products to remain competitive in the international market. In
the selection of machines and technologies the group concentrates exclusively on European or
American peak technology beginning with the tufting ma-chine via advanced Chromojet printing lines
until coating and finishing lines.

The recently commissioned BRÜCKNER coating line for tufting carpets is one of the biggest of
its kind with a total length of approx. 170 m. The production capacity extends to a maximum of 20
million m² per year depending on the type of fabric and the process. With this line the following
processes can be used:

– pre-spread coating for pile integration

– secondary-back laminating with flat fabric or nonwovens

– foam coating with flat foam or embossed foam

The drying process takes place in 23 DUO-THERM drying zones in total. This dryer type proved
to be excellent for coating in the field of carpets. The gas heated dryer is operated with a
temperature splitting for the thermal treatment of the pile and the coating side. This ensures a
high drying capacity with an operation mode which is very gentle for the pile. Photo 2 shows a
cross section of the DUO-THERM dryer. The separated air circulation of upper and lower air allows
temperature differences of up to 60 °C. With the Venturi mixing system for gas heating a perfect
temperature distribution is achieved. The use of inverter-controlled circulating air fan motors
allows a fast reaction on different types of fabric. This prevents pile deformations. The central
Siemens S7 control system ensures with its styles management in addition a perfect reproducibility
of the production data.

The different coatings are applied as foamed latex mixtures. For this purpose the newly
developed BRÜCKNER carpet application unit is used.

Screen 3 shows a view with foam supply, side dams (with motorized control via edge sensors)
and motorized traversing paste distribution. The chromium plated squeegee is water-cooled to
prevent a adhesion of the latex.

The motorized nip adjustment via spindles is made on both sides and is monitored by angle
encoders. Normally a parallel adjustment is made but also corrections on both sides are possible.
The squeegee can be decharged pneumatically via a four-fold joint. Due to the rotation around the
joint, the squeegee roller gives way not only vertically but also horizontally for example when
passing a seam. This prevents strikes or ruptures of the material.

There are two application units in the described machine, one for the pre-spread and one for
the glue / foam application. The integrated straightener allows to straighten fabric distortions.
In addition, a function “straightening according to pattern” is available. Two camera systems
detect either the carpet back or the pile side and distortions are then corrected fully
automatically.

The BRÜCKNER group with domicile and production facility in Germany is worldwide known as
leading producer of high-tech lines for the dry finishing of knitted and woven fabric and the
finishing of technical textiles and carpets. As owner-run machinery producer with more than 60
years of tradition and experience BRÜCKNER stands for reliability, continuity and a personal
relationship with our customers. Our development engineers work already today for the innovations
of tomorrow and therefore provide a considerable leading edge for our customers.



Posted on July 10, 2012

Source: Brückner Trockentechnik GmbH & Co. KG

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