Yarn Market: Cotton Prices, Consumer Confidence Create Concern

By Jim Phillips, Yarn Market Editor
“The only thing that is constant is change.”
— Heraclitus
6th century BCE

Just when it seemed the yarn industry was in the midst of a sustained period of stability, something changed. In this instance, the change entails a dramatic decrease over the past several months in the price of cotton, which dropped from around 80 cents per pound at the first of June to less than 65 cents per pound on August 20.

To put this in perspective, during the same period last year, the price hovered at about 87 cents per pound.

Coupled with recent reports of declining consumer confidence, industry executives are hedging somewhat on earlier predictions of robust business conditions through the end of the year. “Our business, in general, remains very strong,” said one multinational spinner. “But it’s not a warm and fuzzy feeling because we just don’t know what’s next. Our customers don’t seem to be giving us a lot of confidence about what’s coming up. We’re staying busy, but it is more on a day-to-day, order-to-order basis than it has been in recent times.”

“We have plenty of orders in-house, but they are, for the most part, very short,” added a specialty spinner. “We have the next few weeks booked out but don’t really have a handle on what’s coming in afterwards.”

Consumer confidence in the economy is bouncing around, with surges some months and precipitous drops in others. The Bloomberg Consumer Comfort Index fell to 36.3 in the period ended July 27, the lowest since June 8. Bloomberg reports that a gauge of households’ financial wellbeing dropped by the most since mid-May after reaching an 11-week high. Consumers were also less enthusiastic about the buying climate, a reflection of stagnant paychecks.

And, generally, when consumers become concerned about take-home pay, the first thing to go is discretionary spending on such items as clothing. “We are not ready to push the panic button at all,” said one industry insider. “But we are in a situation that makes caution a prudent approach. With the economic concerns and the issue with cotton prices, now is not the time for us to be aggressive in buying.”

Record Cotton Crop Pushes Prices Down
The U.S. cotton crop is estimated to peak at 17.5 million bales. Even though domestic mill use has remained constant and exports are projected to be up by 500,000 bales, ending stocks are projected to be around 5.6 million bales, or 39 percent of total use. This is the largest stocks-to-use ratio since 2007-08. And while, on the surface, a drop in cotton prices would seem to be favorable for cotton spinners, concern exists about how customers will view the current situation. “Cotton has been artificially overpriced for some time,” said one spinner. “It is not worth 90 cents per pound or more, but China’s cotton policy has kept the price higher than it should have been. At the same time, it is worth, historically, more than 60 cents per pound. But customers are likely to look at prices now and wonder whether, given the huge crop, they will drop even further. We need to be cautious until we see where this will bottom out.”

In the long run, if prices hold below 80 cents, spinners say cotton market share could rebound. “Over the past few years, since the market went crazy in 2010, more and more customers have turned to blends to protect against the volatility of cotton prices and the potential lack of supply,” said one spinner. “T-shirts that have always been 100-percent cotton, for example, are now cotton-poly blends. And consumers seem to prefer — or at least accept — this change. A permanent correction in the cotton market could be good for all involved. But, again, we are just going to have to wait and see how things ultimately shake out.”

Another concern is that, with end stocks so large, farmers will turn to other crops, such as corn and soybeans. “If cotton farmers can’t make money, they won’t plant cotton. And that, in turn, could create yet another topsy-turvy market situation,” said another spinner.

The pertinent question is whether new market dynamics will bring the recent period of stability to a screeching halt — or will they herald the onset of an even more prosperous period? The answers from most spinners are similar, as summed up by this industry expert: “My crystal ball is a little cloudy at the moment. Ask me again in three months.”

September/October 2014

Freudenberg Acquires Hänsel Textil’s Interlinings Business

Freudenberg Nonwovens, Germany, has purchased Germany-based Hänsel Textil GmbH’s Hänsel brand interlinings business, including related brands and patents, as well as knit fabric production plants and distribution companies in Italy, Romania, Bulgaria, Sri Lanka and Germany. Freudenberg will retain some 90 Hänsel production and sales associates.

Hänsel’s specialty interlinings include horsehair canvas, multi-zone interlinings, and ultralightweight woven and knitted apparel interlinings. Hänsel also develops textiles with special characteristics suited to withstand the rigors of specific manufacturing processes such as garment dyeing, enzyme washing and low-melting-point coating processes.

 “With the textile interlinings used throughout the fashion industry, we are extending our comprehensive portfolio and our know-how in the field of knitted fabrics in a future-oriented manner,” said Bruce Olsen, spokesman for Freudenberg Nonwovens’ Management Board. Olsen added that he sees benefits in logistics and purchasing synergies.

September/October 2014

People

Picanol NV, Belgium, has appointed Tom Johnston sales manager, Picanol of America.

The Secretariat of the Washington-based International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) has named Lorena Ruiz economist.

Westerly, R.I.-based Darlington Fabrics, a division of The Moore Company, has added David Turk to its sales team.

Italy-based Itema S.p.A. has named Steve Brown sales manager of Itema America Inc.; and Lorenzo Minelli research & innovation director, ItemaLab.

Culp Inc., High Point, N.C., has named Boyd Chumbley executive vice president, Upholstery Fabrics Division.

Safe Reflections, St. Paul, Minn., has named Cedra Garcia global account manager.

Switzerland-based Santex Group has named Marco Tecchio CEO, Santex Group and Santex AG; and Heinz Michel president, Santex AG.

The Research Triangle Park, N.C.-based American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has awarded scholarships to the following students: Charles H. Stone Scholarship — Alyx Kahn, Kristin Smithgall, Nicholas Cone and Devin Harkins, Clemson University, and Chase Pfendler, North Carolina State University (NCSU); Charles E. Gavin III Family Scholarship — Brittany Sipin and Matthew Lopez, Auburn University; Color Solutions International Textile and Apparel Design Scholarship — Cierra Hoover, NCSU, and Christine Petroni, Bucks County Community College; and Metro Scholarship — Jasmine Sousa, University of  Rhode Island, and Blaze Javier Mendela, Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT).

Aurora Specialty Textiles Group Inc., Aurora, Ill., has promoted Marcia Ayala to vice president, research and development.

Finland-based Suominen Corp. has named Dan Dunbar vice president, sourcing.

September/October 2014

TTU Researchers Develop Super-absorbent Cotton Mat

Researchers at Texas Tech University (TTU), Lubbock, Texas, have engineered an absorbent mat using low-grade cotton that can collect up to 50 times its weight in oil. Seshadri Ramkumar, Ph.D., Department of Environmental Toxicology, TTU, led the research project, assisted by doctoral student Vinitkumar Singh. Scientists from Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C., as well as researchers from TTU’s departments of Mechanical Engineering and Environmental Toxicology also participated. The team tried to develop a fundamental understanding behind the effect of fiber structure and basic cotton characteristics on oil sorption capacity of unprocessed raw cotton, as well as examine the basic mechanisms behind oil sorption by nonwoven cotton webs.

The project was initiated following the 4.9 million-barrel crude oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico in 2010. “This incident triggered our interest in developing environmentally sustainable materials for environmental remediation,” Ramkumar said. “In this study, we have used low-grade cotton as well as mature cotton, and it was observed that low-grade cotton performs better than regular mature cotton in the oil sorption capacity.”

The research team hopes to bring the cotton batts to market within 12 months.

September/October 2014

TENCEL® Jumbo Plant Comes On-Line

Lenzing Group, Austria, has begun production at its TENCEL® jumbo manufacturing facility in Lenzing, Austria. The 150 million-euro facility, the largest worldwide, is now ramping up production, which is expected to be fully implemented within the originally planned 24-month timeframe.

“We are optimistic that we will be able to achieve the planned production target of 30,000 tons by the end of 2014,” said Lenzing COO Friedrich Weninger. “This new TENCEL® facility is decisive to ensure the long-term viability of fiber production at the Lenzing site and the basis for future investments in all markets.”

The production line at the new facility, which employs 140 workers, has an annual nominal production capacity of 67,000 tons and enables Lenzing to raise total annual Tencel production capacity from 155,000 tons to some 220,000 tons. The company reports that the startup of the facility provides expansion opportunities for its customers in the textile and nonwovens segments alike, in addition to enabling development of new applications including technical applications.

September/October 2014

Bayer MaterialScience Debuts INSQIN™ Coating Solution

Bayer MaterialScience, Germany, now offers INSQIN™ technology for solvent-free production of polyurethane (PU) leather and other PU coated fabrics, which are used to make shoes, bags and apparel. Brand owners may work with Bayer technicians on the company’s pilot lines in China and Germany and use the INSQIN technology in the design and development of products with improved environmental performance.

Bayer expects INSQIN particularly will benefit Chinese PU fabric makers, which produce 90 percent of the 4 billion-plus square meters of PU leather produced annually. The solvent-free technology reduces coating process water usage by up to 95 percent and energy usage by up to 50 percent.

Bayer’s INSQIN Partner Manufacturer Program includes a list of manufacturers that comply with its  technology application standards.

September/October 2014

From The Editor: TenCate: Innovative Protection

Through the years, Textile World has honored leading textile companies that excel in the development of innovative products and technologies. Bringing innovation into the business process is essential for creating a successful textile company.  This year, TW honors TenCate Protective Fabrics of North America with the 2014 Textile World Innovation Award for that very reason. TenCate has a long-established track record for solving customers’ problems by creating not just fabrics, but fabric systems that exceed its clients’ needs.

When it comes to safety and protection, TenCate is creating cutting-edge products that are helping people doing dangerous jobs on the front line — be it on the battlefield or at the scene of a fire.

Turnout gear — those protective coats and pants worn by firefighters — today comprise very specialized systems, and TenCate, with more than 70-percent market share, has further developed the fabrics going into them since their entry into the market in 1969. The company’s innovations go deeper than great flame-resistant fabrics that it sells into numerous markets. Talk with company leaders today, and you’ll see their focus on maintaining high performance and making fabrics that are cooler and lighter-weight for the wearer. These advantages help increase the wearer’s performance and reduce stress in very harsh environments.

TenCate’s story runs deeper than turnout gear. One remarkable development is its patented Defender® M fabric. When the U.S. military was challenged with a new threat on the battlefield — the improvised explosive device (IED) — soldiers needed more than ballistic protection — they also faced severe burn injuries. Standard military fatigues weren’t providing the necessary level of protection. Researchers at TenCate rose to the challenge and created Defender M, which when implemented is said to have reduced third-degree burns by 30 to 45 percent among affected troops. Subsequent iterations have tuned the performance, and the fabrics are used around the world today.

TenCate also pays attention to how its products are made and makes a conscious effort to be as environmentally friendly as possible. Its Dyeing and Finishing Plant in Molena, Ga., won the Environmental Award for Land Application System from the Georgia Waste Water Pollution Control Association eight years in a row.

TenCate is increasing its global business development — as the company says,  “Domestic success paves the way to reach out to the global market” — and while having a full line of proven products, TenCate recognizes that new clients have varying needs, and those needs present new challenges for TenCate researchers.

TW editors would like to thank TenCate Protective Fabrics of North America for its level of support and access in putting together the editorial that follows. TenCate’s innovation story is far from over — after spending time with members of the company’s team, it becomes apparent that more innovations will follow, and on a global scale.

September/October 2014

The Rupp Report: Physiological Apparel Part VI: The Appropriate Making-up For A Maximum Performance

At the very final end of the downstream process of physiological apparel remain the manufactured goods, the apparel. This is now the time to see the final product in the shops or in a sports stadium, it is ready to be sold to the customer. That’s why one of the key factors of all functional apparel is the presentation of the final product. However, this is not the target of this report. The target in this final report about functional and physiological correct apparel is to give some ideas about making-up. This includes the cutting, sewing and assembling (joining) of the fabrics.
 
Three Important Factors
Three issues determine the physiological processes involved in wearing of apparel: insulation; moisture transport; and convection and ventilation. The issue with moisture transport should be clarified now. So let’s look at the cutting and manufacturing of the apparel.
 
The most important factor about all items for functionally correct sportswear is that every piece of the garment fits together. In a modern apparel system one may hear the expression of the so-called “onion-skin” principle. This principle means that all garments, from underwear to outerwear have a defined function and correlate with each other. It is useless if the correct underwear is worn, and on top of all layers is a raincoat that doesn’t breathe. To repeat: It’s not the simple thickness of the fabric, but a perfect system of different apparel layers that determines the insulation value or the undisturbed flow of body moisture to the outside. Better are three lightweight, properly constructed garments, one above the other, than two thick, unsuitable components that disturb the onion-skin principle.
 
Convection
In this principle, it is important to know the difference between convection and ventilation. Convection refers to a convective flow of heat moving from a place at a higher temperature to a lower temperature place. The air plays a crucial role. That’s why it is important that as much air as possible is kept between the different layers to achieve high insulation and heat retention properties. For this, the cut of the apparel and the moving inherent air layers are of great importance for the functioning of the system. This air has better moisture transportation properties because it is continuously renewed, and is not saturated with moisture. In contrast, moving air has a lower insulating capacity, since it can’t warm up long enough and is constantly being replaced.
 
Ventilation
Ventilation is just the opposite of convection. It means the air exchange between the physical microclimate and the environment. This occurs via the wearer itself, or his loose apparel, for example, through openings such as collars, buttonholes and zippers. If the cut of the apparel is too tight, no convection and ventilation can take place. This can provoke the situation of an unpleasant heat or moisture bottleneck. This condition is well known to everyone, for example when wearing too-tight blue jeans. Even underwear should not be too tight, even if it is highly elastic. Ventilation is an effective way to extend the control range of the apparel.
 
The Importance Of Sewing
Of utmost importance is the chosen technique to join the fabrics, either with sewing, heat or gluing. The final product determines the assembling technology. If the job is to produce a product for active sports, then it will be lightweight and can be sewed. If one needs a heavy protective and waterproof oilskin like garment, then the best way to join the different fabrics is welding or gluing, depending on the applied coating material. Before starting the assembly, some questions should be clarified:
 
Which fiber materials must be connected?
What is the stress factor of the apparel?
Do the joining results have a functional or visual effect?
Which method is the most cost-effective?
 
There are so many factors to be taken into consideration regarding fabrics and finishes such as coatings that for each end-product a precise job specification must be established.
 
However, a properly designed, applied and produced sewing seam can withstand even the toughest conditions. Sewing can be described as a highly efficient manufacturing process, when all possibilities of modern sewing techniques are applied.
 
Welding Processes
These processes often are associated with the idea of working with the highest economies of scale joining machines. However, this can easily lead to disappointment. The truth is that to reduce the assembly time by welding is only applicable for big lots compared to sewing. Yet, a welded seam completely seals the joints and is ideal for heavy rainwear. Welding is ideal if plastic or plastic-coated fabrics, nonwovens, or film tapes need to be connected. High frequency welding is widely used for coated products.
 
Another technique is adhesive bonding. However, this technique has little significance, since it cannot compete with the other joining methods. On top of that it is the problem of odors from solvents, and the required compliance with the health and safety conditions.
 
A proper method for certain material is fusion bonding. With this method projects were carried out with overlapped seams and hems. For these areas of applications adhesive nets and nonwovens adhesives made of co-polyamide and polyurethane are available.
 
Hang Tags
Today, every piece of functional apparel is overloaded with hang tags. There are so many hang tags on certain well-known labels of sportswear that the customer is more irritated than informed by the content. Mostly the content of the hang tags are written for a few professionals but certainly not for the people on Main Street. Again, less, but more in-depth information would be better. Surveys by the author among customers enlightened the fact that most people are irritated and not informed by the hang tags.
 
Wash-And-Wear
Every piece of apparel should be washed before wearing, especially those items which are next to the skin. It is possible that residues from all kinds of machinery and equipment, for example, adhere to the fabric. These chemicals can truly provoke allergies, and not only skin irritations.
 
Modern apparel, and especially sportswear, must be easy to clean and should remain dimensionally stable. It is frequently changed and washed regularly. Washing at 30 to 40° C should be enough. The products, mainly made of man-made fibers don’t need to be washed at higher temperatures.
 
Cutting edge yarns, such as microfibers, are delicate, and no mild detergent or so-called fabric softeners should be used. The softener will stick together the space between the fine filaments and the required breathable function fails. A traditional detergent is absolutely enough. Then hang the garment up wet and that’s it.
 
An Interdisciplinary Game
Talking about sportswear must be carried out in a holistic way. There are so many components that relate with each other. Only the interplay of all factors enables the proper functioning of physiological correct apparel with all the required properties. Before one starts a project, the person should talk to all involved parties. Manufacturing physiological apparel is somewhat the same like producing technical textiles. There too, it is important to consider that from the producer of the yarn up to the maker-up of the product, a lot of interaction and exchange of knowledge and experience is need. And then the success is quite close. So start the race and win the game.

September 2, 2014

INDA’s Research, Innovative & Science For Engineered Fabrics Conference Includes Nanofibers For The Third Millennium

CARY, N.C. — Sept. 2, 2014 — INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced that its Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics (RISE) Conference will devote one day of its three day event to present Nanofibers for the Third Millennium (N3M), a symposium highlighting the major nanofiber application areas and manufacturing processes. The conference will be held February 10-12, in Miami, Florida. Elmarco Inc., a manufacturer of electrospun nanofiber equipment, will be a Platinum Sponsor of the N3M symposium.
 
INDA’s RISE Conference has been connecting technical innovation in engineered fabrics with practical applications since 2010. It is a conference growing in appeal to Business/Product Development Professionals, Innovation Teams, Product Managers Research Engineers, and other Technical Scouts.
 
The conference coordination responds to the growing interest in combining nanofibers, (fibers with diameters less than 100 nanometers) with nonwoven materials to significantly enhance various performance properties. 
 “Our RISE Conference aligns with the element of our mission to provide thought-leadership in innovation and technology.  Adding the N3M symposium on nanofibers as enhancements to nonwovens brings attendees an exciting new area that simply cannot be ignored by forward looking companies.  Having the conference in sunny Miami in February should represent an attractive venue, so we are looking for this to be our best RISE yet,” said Dave Rousse, President of INDA.
The February N3M symposium includes key applications, nanofiber operations, and several nanofiber production processes. Applications to be covered include Air/Liquid Filtration, Life Sciences (wound care and tissue scaffolding), and Energy Storage (fuel cells and battery separators).   
“We created the N3M conference as a platform for bringing leaders in fine fiber product design together in 2008.  Following the success of our sponsorship in Europe, North America,
and Asia, we’re excited to be working with an association of INDA’s caliber,” said Ales Gardian, Chief Technology Officer, Elmarco, S.R.O.
N3M delegates will have the option of attending two tracks and four sessions. Two of the mid-day sessions will be held simultaneously and cap the event with a plenary panel discussion.
 
The RISE and N3M conference opens with a Monday night Welcome Reception at a Miami venue yet to be determined with conference presentations to begin Tuesday morning.  Sessions include Spunmelt Technology, Surface Treatments and Modifications, New Fibers and Materials, and Novel Properties, among others. 

Posted September 2, 2014

Source: INDA
 

United Furniture Industries Adding 200 Jobs In Forsyth County

RALEIGH, N.C. — August 27, 2014 — Governor Pat McCrory and North Carolina Commerce Secretary Sharon Decker announced today that United Furniture Industries NC, LLC is expanding operations in Forsyth County.  The company plans to create 200 new jobs and invest $5.2 million over the next three years in Winston-Salem.
 
“This is a significant expansion by United Furniture Industries and adds to the large workforce the company already has in North Carolina,” said Governor McCrory.  “We continue to work day-in and day-out to not only bring new businesses to North Carolina, but to help those that are already here expand and create even more jobs. I am also happy that United Furniture Industries will revitalize the historic Weeks plant as part of this project,” continued Governor McCrory. 
 
United Furniture Industries is based in Mississippi and is a domestic leader in manufacturing of upholstery products.  The company holds exclusive licensing agreements as the U.S. manufacturer of Simmons Upholstery. United Furniture Industries employs 940 people at four North Carolina facilities in Randolph, Davidson and Forsyth counties.  As part of the expansion, the company is combining its manufacturing and distribution hub at a new, larger location in Winston-Salem at the renovated historic Weeks plant.  
 
“United Furniture Industries has had a manufacturing presence in North Carolina for many years,” said Secretary Decker.  “This announcement of 200 additional jobs builds on that presence.  It also revitalizes the historic Weeks plant, which is a great symbol of Winston-Salem’s textile heritage.” 

Salaries will vary by job function, but the annual payroll for the new jobs will be $5,684,000. 
 
“United Furniture Industries is pleased to announce our continued expansion in North Carolina at the former Hanes Mill Weeks facility,” said Larry George, president of United Furniture Industries. “I would like to thank all those individuals and organizations at both the state and local level, who have contributed time and effort to this project.   We look forward to expanding manufacturing activities to this facility.” 
 
The project was made possible in part by a performance-based grant from the One North Carolina Fund of up to $300,000. The One NC Fund provides financial assistance, through local governments, to attract business projects that will stimulate economic activity and create new jobs in the state. Companies receive no money up front and must meet job creation and investment performance standards to qualify for grant funds.  These grants also require and are contingent upon local matches. 
 
“I want to thank United Furniture Industries for expanding their operations in Forsyth County,” said Senator Joyce Krawiec. “This is the perfect place to grow a business, and Governor McCrory and I are committed to creating new jobs here in Forsyth County.” 
 
“It is great to see one of our existing businesses expanding here,” said Senator Earline Parmon.  “These new jobs will be an important addition to our economic growth in Forsyth County.” 
 
State representatives welcomed the expansion and long-term commitment to the community. 
 
“I am extremely pleased that United Furniture Industries has chosen to create 200 new jobs in Forsyth County,” said Representative Debra Conrad. “Our strong workforce and business-friendly climate helped create the ideal location for them and we are excited to see them expanding here.” 
 
“I am pleased that United Furniture Industries is bringing these new jobs to Forsyth County,” said Representative Edward Hanes, Jr.  “This is good news for the city of Winston-Salem, the county and the region.” 
 
“I commend the cooperation of Forsyth County, Winston-Salem and Secretary Decker,” said Representative Donny Lambeth. “We’re grateful for United Furniture Industries’ decision to expand here and we’re looking forward to working with them for many years to come.” 
 
“New jobs are always welcome news to Forsyth County,” said Representative Julia Howard.  “This will be a great addition to our area’s economy.” 
 
Other partners that helped with this project include: the N.C. Department of Commerce, Economic Development Partnership of N.C., N.C. Community Colleges, Forsyth Technical Community College, Northwest Piedmont Workforce Development Board, Winston-Salem Chamber of Commerce, Forsyth County and the City of Winston-Salem.

Posted September 2, 2014

Source: North Carolina Office of the Governor
 

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