Paper Solicitation For AATCC’s 2015 International Conference

RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, N.C. — AATCC, the Association of Textile, Apparel & Materials Professionals, is soliciting papers for its 2015 IC which will be held March 24-26 in Savannah. We have a Call for Papers posted on our website and encourage submittals for both oral and poster presentations. We are seeking abstract submittals for our three educational tracks, Concept 2 Consumer, Chemical Applications, and Materials. 

The deadline for submittal is July 21 for oral presentations and November 7 for poster presentations. We encourage submittals on innovative fibers; innovative and sustainable technologies for textile processing; troubleshooting issues; new machinery and chemistries; performance/protective fabrics/garments; color management in the supply chain; QC testing; new research for textile application; biomaterials; medical textiles; consumer oriented topics; nonwovens; functional textiles; trade issues; care labeling; nanotechnology; product performance and innovation for the retail marketplace; case studies; and innovative designs and trends. For a complete list of topics for which presentations are solicited please visit our website.

We are also seeking a plenary speaker for this conference and looking for recommendations. If you would like to recommend a speaker, please email your suggestion to me at pickettp@aatcc.org. Please share this email with your colleagues and encourage their submittals.

Posted July 8, 2014

Source: AATCC
 
 

 

Optitex Announces Launch of Version 12.3: Introducing Expanded 2D and 3D Capabilities and Production Enhancements

NEW YORK CITY — July 8 2014 — Optitex, a provider of 2D and 3D CAD/CAM and virtual prototyping software solutions for sewn products, today announced the release of Version 12.3 of its market-leading software. This latest version includes several major developments: a new tool within Optitex PDS that significantly improves the design and development workflow for garments that use printed fabrics; and a new add-on module to Optitex CutPlan that enables improved inventory utilization.

The new Printed Fabric Tool, now integrated into Optitex Pattern Design Software (PDS), facilitates the accurate positioning of style pieces on printed fabric. From within Optitex PDS, designers and pattern makers can see how the printed image will lie on the garment, make adjustments and immediately view the effects of every change. With Optitex 3D Suite, users can make changes on the 2D pattern or 3D model and see the results simultaneously in both. This greatly increases pattern design accuracy for any garment that utilizes printed fabric, and eliminates the time and costs of creating physical samples. Full 3D visualization also facilitates communication and speeds the approvals process. Roll Management is a new optional module available for Optitex CutPlan that enables cutting room managers to integrate roll inventory data into their order cutting process, in order to optimize utilization of inventory fabric according to user-defined priorities. With this new module, individual rolls of different widths are automatically assigned to specific markers to meet the requirements of the order while supporting inventory management goals. Usage data from the Roll Management module can be exported to a spreadsheet to update the inventory control system.

“The new capabilities we are introducing with Version 12.3 are based on the needs of our strategic customers, answering real-world challenges that fashion companies on both the design and production ends of the industry face every day,” said Gil Almog, VP Products and Technology. “Our close cooperation with major customers is a defining element in our success in providing cutting edge 2D and 3D software solutions that optimize the garment design, development and production processes and take virtual prototyping to a new level.”

Posted July 8, 2014

Source: Optitex
 

Hohenstein Institute’s Contact Office In Bangladesh Celebrates 10 Years Of Existence

BÖNNIGHEIM, Germany — June 30, 2014 — On 6 June the 10-year anniversary of this foreign branch was celebrated at a ceremony attended by the 75 staff from the Bangladeshi contact office of the Hohenstein Institute as well as Institute Director Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels and International Sales Manager Jörg Diekmann. “The positive response since opening our office in Dhaka in 2004 and our rapid growth in the workforce from just one representative at the start to our current headcount underlines the key importance of Bangladesh as a supply market for the textiles sector”, explains Mecheels.

To cater for the ever-increasing demand for a wide range of quality assessments by independent specialist test centres such as the Hohenstein Institute, the company is continuously stepping up its presence in Bangladesh with experienced professionals from the branch. “What our customers, who are predominantly from typical consumer markets like Germany, other EU states or the USA, particularly appreciate”, comments Mecheels, “is the wide range of services we offer, our prompt order processing system and the expert advice of our partners in the relevant manufacturing countries”. The successful office in Bangladesh has joined a number of other Hohenstein branches such as China or India, adds Mecheels. He has headed up this family firm from Swabia since 1995 and has meanwhile built up a network of in all 44 test laboratories, branches and contact offices in over 40 countries around the world.

The most successful example of the services offered by the Hohenstein Institute in Bangladesh is its programme of testing textiles for harmful substances based on OEKO-TEX® Standard 100. With the issue of 768 certificates in 2013 Bangladesh comes in fifth in the international ranking for the 97 countries participating in the OEKO-TEX® system. In addition, Hohenstein is currently preparing to certify a multi-stage clothes factory with a workforce of 3000 as an environmentally friendly and socially responsible production facility that complies with the requirements of STeP by OEKO-TEX® Standard for sustainable textile production.

“Given the series of accidents occurring at factories in recent years, this sends out an important signal, not only for this industry in Bangladesh but also to the customers it supplies in the target markets”, says sales manager Diekmann not without satisfaction. “This shows that it is a question here of each company assuming personal responsibility and consistently upholding this claim in its supply chain. Sustainable textile production is also possible in countries such as Bangladesh and can pay off for suppliers and their customers in equal measure.”

Another issue that is popular with the customers of Hohenstein’s office in Dhaka is fit testing fit and testing of professional workmanship for garment manufacturing.

Combined with the inspection service offered by the Hohenstein Institute to the local factories, clothing companies can be sure ahead of shipment that their deliveries will satisfy the expectations of the relevant sales markets in terms of quality.

Posted July 8 , 2014

Source: Hohenstein Institute
 

OEKO-TEX Launches New MySTeP Sustainability Management Tool At Texworld USA Gala

ZURICH, Switzerland — July 8, 2014 — Dr. Jean-Pierre Haug, General Secretary of the  International OEKO-TEX® Association will announce another OEKO-TEX® innovation at a Texworld USA gala open to all Texworld USA participants and media. The event will be held Wednesday, July 23, 6:00PM-8:00PM in the Javits Center River Pavilion.
 
At last year’s Texworld USA, OEKO-TEX® unveiled the new STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification for sustainable textile production facilities. STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification is designed for brands, retailers, and manufacturers from all sectors of the textile supply chain who want to validate their sustainable production in a transparent, credible, and clear manner that is consistent around the world.
 
This year, Dr. Haug will present MySTeP, a robust, secure database application that houses a textile product manufacturer’s information related to its sustainable operations. The MySTeP database facilitates private, transparent communication between customers and suppliers, ensures that regulatory compliance data are complete and up to date, and helps facility operators more easily manage the many components of a comprehensive sustainable production strategy that is both environmentally and socially responsible. The new OEKO-TEX® API (Application Program Interface) further aids communication and data sharing via portals and cloud-based vendor management platforms.
 
“Consumer demand for textile products made in factories that operate with respect for their communities, their employees, and the environment continues to grow,” says Dr. Haug. “The new STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification and the new MySTeP database give brands, retailers, and manufacturers throughout the textile supply chain a confidential, concise, and effective method for optimizing, tracking, and communicating sustainable production measures in a credible and transparent manner.”
 
Posted July 8, 2014

Source: Oeko-Tex
 

The Rupp Report: A Swiss Attempt To Go Domestic

Today, mainly European countries are importing goods worth millions and millions of US dollars every year. However, some countries are struggling to hold back some production. For example, Made in the USA, Swiss Made, and many other examples show the efforts to keep some business in the country. This is not an easy task, mainly because labor costs are far higher that in countries such as China or Bangladesh.
 
Made In Switzerland …
One of these former textile countries is Switzerland. After World War II, there were more than 50,000 people working directly in the textile industry, today there are not more than 12,500. Switzerland remains an important country for textile machinery and some outstanding technical textiles, but certainly not for apparel. However, one very traditional textile company is trying to swim against the current  — the Schild Group, a fashion house that is implementing a very interesting project that could be of interest to many other Western countries.
 
… As Much As Possible
In 2012, Schild launched a brand called “Schild since 1922” to recall the tradition of the house and its foundation 92 years ago. On the other hand, it should also help to expand the range of apparel of Swiss origin. The company, based in Lucerne, comprises 720 employees and netted a consolidated turnover in 2013 of 189.3 million Swiss francs (US$213.3 million) and derived a cash flow of 12.7 million Swiss francs (US$14.3 million). The Schild Group has retail shops all over Switzerland — including 30 fashion houses, four outlets, 22 branded shops and 14 boutiques.
 
Schild was founded in 1922 by Swiss weaver Adrian Schild. Over the years, the enterprise shifted from a weaving mill with a few retail sales outlets to a renowned menswear company. Over time, the weaving mill evolved to become a manufacturer of fine fabrics and menswear with many retail stores in Switzerland, and became finally the Fashion House Schild — domestically, a very popular ladies- and menswear specialty shop.
 
From Tradition Into The Future
The new branding is a strategic project for Schild. Schild since 1922 should improve the company’s position and visibility in the market and contribute to increasing the number of regular customers. For this project, profiling is rather more important than profitability, implying that the calculated selling prices are very tight and will bring less profit. Company management accepts this situation; however, it expects that money can be earned with the new products. Currently, the range of the new line includes shirts, polo shirts, sweaters and ties. The concept of the new line is based on the local textile industry’s capability of replacing or substituting for imports, which had previously been made in Asia, at least partially.
 
The generated revenue so far — just under 1 percent of group revenue in 2013 — is marginal. However, the dynamism in the development of the new line is considerable. This year, company management expects a 23-percent growth rate; by 2015, it should be 25 percent.
 
Therefore, it is of utmost importance to emphasize the less visible, but very important characteristics of the premium products: top-quality cotton, heat-set buttons that won’t fall off, metal reinforcement of the collar points instead of plastic inserts. The target, according to Schild, is to convince the buyer that these extras justify the higher price of the shirt. A lot of the hoped-for success depends on a very smart marketing plan.
 
Traceability
Private-label products account for about half of the entire product range. Schild already started reshoring the procurement of private-label products even before the launch of this new Swiss-made line. From 2008 to now, the share of Far Eastern purchasing has been reduced from 28 to 13 percent. Thus, the purchase prices indeed have risen; however, the greater proximity to the supply sources provides the advantage of reacting quickly to any new fashion trends. Even the value chain is easier to control — which, according to Schild CEO Thomas Herbert, has become more and more important in view of the increasing consciousness of the buyers, who want to know the conditions under which the product was manufactured.
 
The plan is to continuously expand the product range by adding pants, jackets, and suits. Moreover, the range of ladieswear will be extended. In the long term, the target is to achieve a future turnover of some 3 million to 5 million Swiss francs (US$338.2 million to US$563.6 million) with the 1922 brand.
 
Pros And Cons Of Tricky Pricing
Pricing, however, is a tricky endeavor. The products, of course, are more expensive than the usual mass-produced goods. Shirts and sweaters cost 149 Swiss francs (US$168), and ties will be 129 Swiss francs (US$145). The articles will have a more timeless style than fashionable mass-produced products and can therefore be kept for several seasons, which can be used as an argument to justify the relatively high price. However, Herbert said, “It’s not possible to place the range in a luxury segment.” To promote the new line, the price had to be kept under the crucial barrier of 150 Swiss francs (US$169). Yet, this pricing needs a considerable turnover. With a more expensive product, it might be possible to achieve more sales, but at a lower volume, and this was not the intention of the management. Another idea of this strategy was that the conscious tightly budgeted margins would prevent competitors from starting in the “Swissness” business with lower prices.
 
An Experiment
The launch of the new brand must be regarded as an open-ended experiment. On the other side, it is unclear whether the Swiss textile industry has the capacity and quality to fulfill the target of selling a “full Swiss product.” So far, the value chain of the targeted products is only two-thirds in Switzerland. There are plans to shift more work processes into Switzerland, but the limited number of suitable producers will likely be an obstacle for a long time. To be continued …

 
July 1, 2014
 

Burlington Debuts Just U.S. Fine Worsted Wool

Greensboro, N.C.-based Burlington, a division of International Textile Group Inc., has launched a line of fine worsted wool fabrics that have been woven and finished in the United States. Just U.S. fabrics, now available for sampling for Fall 2015 menswear collections, are targeted to better men’s suits and suit separates, as well as trousers, blazers and sports coats; and for made-to-measure custom tailors, specialty shop brands, and branded and better department stores.
 
Burlington has been producing worsted wool and wool-blend fabrics since 1954, and has been providing those fabrics to the U.S. military as well as globally for better menswear brands. In recent years, however, fine worsteds have not been produced in the United States, according to Peter Baumann, senior vice president merchandising, Burlington Menswear. 
 
“Burlington’s new collection of fine worsted fabrics opens up exciting opportunities for Made in America better apparel,” Baumann said. “With our new Just U.S. worsteds, made in Cordova and Raeford, North Carolina, designers and brands can now re-connect the heritage of classic men’s dress with modern constructions and color ways for performance and year-round comfort.”
 
July 1, 2014

 

Cotton Inc’s Blue Jeans Go Green Program© Recognized For Leadership And Innovation

BEL AIR, Md. — June 30, 2014 — Three leading international recycling organizations gathered in Miami, Florida for the first-ever international conference on the used clothing recycling industry. Nearly 100 members of the Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART), the Bureau of International Recycling’s Textiles Division (BIR), and the Council for Textile Recycling (CTR) held the first International Textile Recycling Summit (ITRS) at the Fontainebleau Hotel on Miami Beach. Conference attendees were there to discuss industry trends, concerns, and emerging markets.

The three organizations represent for-profit textile recycling companies, non-profit organizations involved in textile recycling, apparel manufacturers, representatives from academia, and governmental agencies, all of which are focused on recycling, especially used clothing and textiles.

In addition to the conference seminars and panel discussions the organizations presented the Leadership in Sustainable Apparel – Recycling Innovator Award to Cotton Inc. for their Blue Jeans Go Green© program. Blue Jeans Go Green© Co-director of Strategic Alliances, Marissa Barlin was on-hand to accept the award.

“Blue Jeans Go Green and Cotton Inc. are honored to be the first recipients of this award,” said Barlin. “Since the program began in 2006 the denim collected has not only been used by builders and home-owners, we have also been able to provide grants of the insulation to civic institutions and to Habitat for Humanity programs throughout the U.S.”

Since its inception, Blue Jeans Go Green© has diverted more than 600 tons of denim out of landfills. To date, more than 2-million square feet of Ultratouch© denim home insulation has been generated from the denim recovered by the Blue Jeans go Green© program. Ultratouch© home insulation is manufactured by SMART member-company Bonded Logic of Chandler, AZ.

Barlin says denim of any color, and in any condition, can be converted into home insulation. For information on recycling unwanted denim products go to BlueJeansGoGreen.org.

Panel discussions held during ITRS included discussions of the global sustainability of the clothing industry and reuse and recycling as seen from the perspective of clothing manufacturers and retailers. Other panel discussions focused on the challenges of the core industry of used clothing collection, reclaimed wipers and fiber conversion and global trends, and innovations in the used clothing/textile recycling industry.

According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency’s most recent report on municipal solid waste, 20.44 billion pounds of clothing and footwear was discarded in 2012. An additional 2.58 billion pounds of towels, sheets and pillowcases were also thrown away. The 2012 EPA report indicates only 14.4% of clothing and footwear products were recovered (recycled) and only 17.8% of towels, sheets and pillowcases were recovered.1   Of the clothing, footwear, towels, sheets, and pillowcases that were thrown away, SMART estimates 95% of those items could have been reused or recycled.2

 SOURCES:
1  Municipal Solid Waste Generation, Recycling, and Disposal in the United States: Tables and Figures for 2012. Tables 15 and 16,

2  Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association Media Kit:   http://www.smartasn.org/about/SMART_PressKitOnline.pdf

Posted July 1, 2014

Source: Secondary Materials And Recycled Textiles
 

Hinks Named Interim Dean Of Textiles Of NC State University’s College Of Textiles

Dr. David Hinks will serve as interim dean of NC State University’s College of Textiles, starting July 1. Provost Warwick Arden announced the appointment May 30.  

Hinks was born and raised in Derby, England and worked for Courtaulds Research for two years prior to attending the University of Leeds, where he earned a Bachelor of Science degree in 1989 and a Ph.D. in colour chemistry in 1993.

Hinks moved to NC State’s College of Textiles as a postdoctoral research associate and later as a visiting assistant professor investigating the genotoxicity of dyes and pigments. In 1996 he joined Milliken & Co. in Spartanburg, South Carolina, as an R&D chemist. Two years later he returned to NC State as an assistant professor in the College of Textiles. He was promoted with tenure in 2004, becoming director of the newly created polymer and color chemistry program. He was promoted to full professor in 2009 and became the Cone Mills Professor of Textile Chemistry in 2010. He currently serves as the director of the emerging Forensic Sciences Institute and associate head and director of graduate programs in the Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science.

Hinks is a member of NC State’s Academy of Outstanding Teachers and Academy of Outstanding Faculty Engaged in Extension. He enjoys serving on the Park Scholars Advisory Committee and the North Carolina Forensic Science Advisory Board that was established by the North Carolina General Assembly in 2011.

“It is truly an honor and a privilege to be entrusted to serve the college and university as interim dean,” Hinks says. “I believe what sets the College of Textiles apart from other renowned academic programs is our passion for service to a global industry, and our faculty, staff and students’ reputation as a close-knit family that supports each other, and our outstanding alumni. Through Dean Godfrey’s leadership, we are recognized as having broad and deep national and international reach in first quality undergraduate and graduate education, research, and local and global engagement. I very much look forward to working with our outstanding community in making the college even stronger and at the same time creating a safe, creative, inspiring, impactful and enjoyable place to work and learn.”

The search for a permanent dean, which was suspended in May, will be restarted in the coming academic year, Arden said. Blanton Godfrey, who has served as dean for 14 years, will return to the faculty.

Posted July 1, 2014

Source: NC State University College of Textiles
 

ICAC: Rising Stocks, Reduced Imports Puts Downward Pressure On Price

WASHINGTON — July 1, 2014 — Higher ending stocks outside China and lower imports into China will put downward pressure on international prices in 2014/15. Additionally, world production is likely to exceed consumption in 2014/15, though by a lesser amount than in the past four seasons. As a result, world ending stocks are expected to rise by 6% to 21.4 million tons and the stock-to-use ratio would be 89%, or in other words there would be enough cotton stocks to cover consumption for nearly 11 months. This would be the fifth consecutive season of increase in ending stocks, after a 27% fall in 2009/10. China is estimated to hold nearly 60% of the world’s stocks, most of which is held in its government reserve. At the end of June, the Secretariat estimates that the Chinese government will still hold 11.7 million tons. While consumption in China is forecast to grow during next season, a strong preference exists for high quality cotton, so it is unlikely that the government will be able to quickly draw down its reserve without offering significant discounts. At the end of 2013/14, China is forecast to hold 11.5 million tons, an increase of 19% from 2012/13, and these stocks are likely to further expand in 2014/15. Additionally, ending stocks outside China are also expected to rise by 7%, to 8.7 million tons at the end of this season and are projected to reach 9.7 million tons at the end of 2014/15.

In 2014/15, world production is forecast to drop by 2% to 25.3 million tons due to reduced planting in China, where cotton production may reach only 6 million tons. Production in the rest of the world is expected to increase by 1% to 19.3 million tons. In 2013/14, production in India is estimated at a record 6.5 million tons due to higher yields and better prices, which encouraged farmers to plant more cotton in 2014/15. Assuming yield is similar to the 3-year average, Indian cotton production is projected to reach 6.3 million tons in 2014/15, but this result is highly dependent on the timing of monsoon rains. The Southwest region of the United States has received much needed rain, which could help reduce the abandonment rate and result in a higher harvested area than last season. In 2014/15, production in the United States is expected to grow by 14% to 3.2 million tons.

In 2013/14, world consumption grew by less than 1% to 23.4 million tons, but a rise of 3%, to 24.1 million tons is anticipated in 2014/15. The high price of domestic cotton in China, restrictions on imports, difficulties with financing and weak demand for cotton yarn have caused many mills in China to further reduce operations this past season. However, with the ending of China’s reserve policy, many mills are anticipating lower prices later this year, as already reflected in futures markets. Consumption in China should improve slightly and reach 7.9 million tons 2014/15. India experienced strong consumption growth in 2013/14, increasing by 5% to 5.1 million tons. In 2014/15, consumption is projected to grow by an additional 6% to 5.4 million tons.

World trade is projected to decline by 8% to 8.1 million tons, as a result of a reduction in China’s imports from 3 million to 2.2 million tons next season. Imports in the rest of the world are forecast to rise by 3% and reach 5.9 million tons. Imports into Southeast Asia have grown in line with the expansion of consumption in the region, since little cotton is grown there. In 2014/15, the Secretariat expects imports by Bangladesh to increase by 2%, to nearly 900,000 tons, and those of Vietnam to rise by 9%, to nearly 700,000 tons.
 


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MonoSol Breaks Ground on new Manufacturing Facility in Portage, Ind.

MERRILLVILLE, Ind. — June 30, 2014 — MonoSol LLC, A Kuraray Company, the world leader in water-soluble delivery systems, has broken ground for their new high-tech production facility, Duneland Site, in Portage’s Ameriplex at the Port. Mayor James E. Snyder was joined by MonoSol CEO and Division head/Kuraray WS Film Division, P. Scott Bening and Keiji Murakami, Director/Primary Executive of the Vinyl Acetate Company of Kuraray along with several other MonoSol staff members and dignitaries from the City of Portage and the State of Indiana for the brief ground breaking ceremony.
 
This new production facility will feed the growing global demand for all water-soluble film products, as MonoSol takes a large integration step as the core of the Kuraray WS Film Division.  It will be constructed in three phases with the first phase scheduled to be operational in late 2016, generating an approximate 15 percent capacity increase over MonoSol’s current global production levels. The final phase will be complete by the end of 2020. When fully operational, the plant will create at least 150 new jobs. Hiring will commence mid-2015 for the 2016 opening. The Ross Group has been retained as the general contractor for the project. 

“As a member of the global Kuraray team, we examined locations on multiple continents for this expansion,” said P. Scott Bening, CEO of MonoSol. “Portage, Indiana was chosen over several European locations and other North American locations in Michigan, Ohio and Wisconsin. Our roots, natural resource availability, workforce confidence, relationships with service providers and the support from the State of Indiana and City of Portage tipped the scales. Mayor James Snyder and his team did a great job coordinating the necessary supporters. The State stepped up and assisted with a competitive incentive package as well. We are blessed with a great team of people who started in Portage in 1953, expanded to LaPorte, Indiana and to Europe and now find cause to build even more back in Portage,” said Mr. Bening. “This region is full of ‘can do’ individuals and we are proud to be a part of the community.”
 
“Portage cannot express the extent of its gratitude and honor at being chosen by MonoSol as its new growth location,” stated Portage Mayor James E. Snyder. “We truly believe this company represents the very essence of what Portage strives to bring its residents in terms of new job opportunities. Portage has the best team with Economic Development Director Fitzer and Redevelopment Commission Director John Shepherd, who worked hard to earn this opportunity for the ever-promising future of Portage.”
 
Further, Mayor Snyder said, “CEO Scott Bening and the MonoSol team are committed to participating in our youth training program in Portage schools and this project will be instrumental in helping them find quality employees and our students finding quality jobs that will keep some of our finest in Portage.”
 
“MonoSol’s humble beginnings started in Portage and we have insured that Portage will be instrumental in their incredible future. This is truly one of Portage’s finest achievements on many levels,” said Snyder.

Posted July 1, 2014

Source: Monosol
 

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