Nilit Unveils NILIT® Heat Yarn

Nylon 6,6 fiber manufacturer Nilit Ltd., Israel, has introduced NILIT® Heat, a warming yarn that conserves and maintains natural body heat.

Nilit reports the yarn, which incorporates coffee charcoal created from coffee bean residue, offers superior thermo insulation, antibacterial properties, a strong deodorizing effect, and a sweat-free sensation for comfort and performance that lasts throughout the day. According to the company, the yarn offers the best warming performance when knitted as the inner layer of base layers, underwear, socks, legwear, sportswear and winterwear.

“We’re very excited about our innovative Nilit Heat yarn and its unparalleled performance,” said Alon Weiser, R&D and technical service manager, Nilit. “The complex structure of the coffee charcoal additive in this incredible yarn effectively captures body heat and keeps it in the garment, to keep wearers warm in any weather.”

January/February 2014

A New Route For Nanofibers

Nanofibers traditionally have been made using one of two methods: electrospinning or meltblowing. Both methods produce dry, filament nanofibers, and different iterations of those methods have been developed over the years, with those developments generally overseen by experts in the textile field.

Recently, another, very different method has come out of the chemical engineering field, almost as if by a fluke, and this new method produces staple fibers, which open up possibilities for a wide range of new end-use applications. XanoShear™ technology, developed at North Carolina State University (NCSU), was licensed in 2010 to Xanofi Inc., a Raleigh, N.C.-based startup established to commercialize the technology, which offers production at a considerably faster rate than electrospinning and can be scaled up easily by adding components to the machine.


The XanoShear™ machine’s flexibility to offer different diameters or pipe configurations, additional tanks, or other features enables processing of various volumes and fibers according to specifications.

Something In The Liquid
In the early 2000s, as Orlin Velev, Ph.D., then an assistant professor of chemical engineering and currently Invista Professor, Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering, NCSU, was working in his chemistry lab making polymeric microrods using a colloid shear process, he noticed that some of the rods  appeared to be getting stretched much further and much more finely, forming nanofibers in the liquid. With his curiosity piqued, he began to play with shear and some chemical mechanisms to precipitate polymers out of their solvents. Several colleagues including Stoyan Smoukov, Ph.D.; Sumit Gangwal, Ph.D.; Pete Geisen; and others — with backgrounds primarily in chemical engineering and biotechnology — also became involved, and through NCSU’s graduate-level Technology Entrepreneurship and Commercialization course, with advice from Executive-in-Residence Miles C. Wright, they developed a business plan and formed Xanofi.

Velev, Smoukov and Geisen are now involved in technology and product development at Xanofi; and Wright serves as Xanofi’s CEO. Wright spoke to Textile World about the XanoShear technology and the company that is bringing products to market using that technology.

“Our core technology uses a solvent/antisolvent combination that forces a soluble polymer to phase separate back into a solid,” Wright said. “At the same time, shear within the liquid is being exerted, so that as it goes from liquid to solid, there’s a stretching  motion.” He added that through experimentation with that process, it became possible to better control the shape of the microrods and reduce them to fibers.

Wright said the staple nanofibers produced offer several advantages. Whereas electrospun filament fibers primarily are coated onto the surface of a substrate, XanoShear staple fibers can be distributed in a liquid and sprayed or wetlaid to make a 2-D or 3-D substrate, thereby creating materials that can’t be made using continuous fiber.

“Our applications range from 3-D cell culturing to protein additives for food, affinity or ion exchange chromatography, liquid or air filtration, and numerous others,” Wright said. “What we do doesn’t replace electrospinning or meltblowing. We’re going into applications and developing ways of producing products with a completely different advanced material, and we’re looking at those markets and applications that are enabled by our material, not the same ones that are served by electrospun or meltblown materials. It’s pretty easy for us to include our fibers in a slurry tank and have it 3-D-integrated into a wetlaid substrate. You can’t really do that with a continuous fiber.”


Dan Morton, process engineer at Xanofi, holds up a typical pressed mat of solid nanofibers.

The Machine: A Tale Of Bootstrap American Ingenuity
The machine concept for the XanoShear technology is relatively simple. “We started with a test tube technology,” Wright said. “Originally, we thought our commercial machine would look like a giant washing machine, basically like a test tube except a much bigger version. The problem with that concept is that it’s more of a batch process, and we wanted to move toward a more continuous process. We probably mapped out 12 or 13 different ways to create shear within a continuous flow of the liquid.

“As we started thinking about ways to do this, Pete [Geisen] came in one day with a yard sprayer. He messed with it and that morning he started producing nanofibers. Then we started thinking, ‘We need more power and volume — beer keg!’ So we quickly secured a keg and started producing nanofibers that day. That actually became a pretty good system that we still use as a quick and dirty testing platform,” Wright continued.

“Then we built a pilot machine, and we still use that basic concept. It’s just a functional machine, and we have a lot of room to engineer it to do a lot of different things — in terms both of volume and of fiber produced — by changing diameters, pipe configurations and such. There are a lot of knobs we can turn to produce different materials. It’s a pretty robust platform for doing different things.”

Xanofi is also developing a hardware-material system, dubbed XanoSpray, that will spray staple nanofibers onto roll goods. That project has received funding from the National Science Foundation.


A scanning electron micrograph of XanoMATRIX™ material shows the substrate’s chaotic architecture and high use of discrete fibers.

Business Model: Going Partners
Rather than sell machines or nanofiber to downstream producers, Xanofi has decided to partner with companies that would market products that it makes itself.

“We get a lot of requests to sell machines, but we don’t want to be an equipment manufacturer,” Wright explained. “And we get a lot of requests just to sell bulk fiber at commodity prices, but we do not want to be the Walmart of nanofibers — that takes a huge amount of infrastructure and cost. We want to develop products and find new uses for our advanced material. We’re unique in the fact that we own a platform. We might get something 80-, 90-, or 98-percent to an end product, but at the end of the day, we’ll partner with a  company that will take it to market.”

First XanoShear Products
Although Xanofi primarily aims to partner with other companies to develop and offer end products, its first product, a XanoMATRIX™ 3-D cell scaffold, has taken a slightly different path. The company teamed with the University of North Carolina, University College London and Cambridge University to develop the scaffolds. As company literature describes it, “Unlike other technologies, the chaotic architecture of our substrates and the high use of discrete fibers allows cells to easily migrate and propagate, reshaping the scaffold with more rubust nutrient gradients.”

“We’ll produce the scaffold, and cells will grow on that,” Wright said. “We will have 48- and 96-well plate versions, and we’re selling those well plates for the 3-D cell scaffold. We don’t have a partner for that — we wanted to get to a commercial product and then find a partner.” XanoMatrix will be released in February 2014.

In another project, Xanofi is developing an additive that will improve the hydrophobicity of C6 fluorochemistry.

“The shorter C6 chain has less breakoff and is better for the environment than C8 chemistry, but C6 chemistries lose about 30 percent of their hydrophobicity, so they don’t work as well as C8 in that area,” Wright said. “Through chemical modification, people are getting back to 80-percent hydrophobicity. If we build a simple additive for these C6 chemistries, we can get it back to about 95-percent efficacy quite inexpensively.”

Other products are under development also, including one involving corn proteins for food products and a second life science product involving affinity chromatography. Xanofi is partnering with several companies worldwide to bring a range of products to market.

January/February 2014

Thwing-Albert Debuts EJA Vantage Series Tensile Tester

Thwing-Albert Instrument Co., West Berlin, N.J., has introduced the EJA Vantage Series testing machine, which has its own touch screen control panel mounted to the side of the machine. This addition eliminates the need for a separate computer to run quality tests. The stand-alone instrument now can run tensile, peel, compression and coefficient of friction tests using the touch screen controls, and the built-in Bluetooth system makes it easy to connect to a network printer to generate and print reports from the test results, the company reports.

 A 7-inch or 10-inch touch screen is available. Customers may still elect to purchase MAP-4 software to connect the instrument to a computer to provide enhanced data analysis and additional user controls.

January/February 2014

INDEX 14: Nonwovens Opportunities Abound

INDEX 14 — the 11th edition of the triennial nonwovens exhibition sponsored by Brussels-based EDANA, the International Association Serving the Nonwovens and Related Industries — will return to Palexpo in Geneva April 8-11, 2014. Dubbed “The World’s Leading Nonwovens Exhibition,” the show encompasses all sectors of the nonwovens industry.

This year, more than 500 exhibitors from 43 countries are expected to showcase the latest innovations in technological and product development, process enhancement and applications to some 12,500 trade visitors in 50,000 square meters of exhibition space at Palexpo. Event organizer Palexpo S.A. reports it currently is looking at how it can increase the size of the event to accommodate the increased demand.


INDEX 11 hosted a record 530-plus exhibitors from 43 countries and some 12,600 visitors from more than 100 countries.

INDEX 11 hosted a record 530-plus exhibitors from 43 countries and some 12,600 visitors from more than 100 countries. The show saw  increases in the number of exhibitors from all geographic areas, and particularly from the Middle East, Asia and South America — regions that are exhibiting strong nonwovens growth.  INDEX 11 also saw an increase in the number of visitors from Africa. Western Europe accounted for the largest number of visitors, with two-thirds coming from that region. According to Palexpo, more than 80 percent of the leading nonwovens companies were present at the show.

Nonwovens Sector Range
Nonwovens sectors to be represented at INDEX 14 include:

  • nonwoven roll goods, including airlaid, drylaid, wetlaid, meltblown, composites, fibrillated or perforated film, spunlaid, spunlace/hydroentangled, and other structures;
  • nonwoven applications and materials for transport/vehicle construction, building, wipes and cleaning, civil engineering/geotextiles, agriculture/horticulture, clothing/interlinings and wadding materials, shoes/leather goods, food, packaging, electronics, home furnishings, household, medical, hygiene/personal care, safety technology, protective clothing, filtration, substrates, and others;
  • raw materials for nonwovens and ancillaries, including adhesives and binders, chemicals, fibers and filaments, films/membranes, fluff pulp, reinforcement scrims, superabsorbents, surface treatments/coatings, tapes, elastics and mechanical fastenings, tissue and papers, and others;
  • machinery, including nonwovens machinery, converting machinery, auxiliary manufacturing equipment and waste-handling equipment; and
  • services, including publications, research institutes and laboratories, trade associations, manufacturing licenses, and others.

 
Spotlighting Applications
Nonwovens are used in a wide range of areas — offering many opportunities for the cross-fertilization of ideas and know-how, EDANA notes. INDEX 14 will illustrate the diverse array of nonwovens applications and also will demonstrate how a nonwovens solution in one application can be applied successfully to another to solve an issue in a different industry sector.

There will be a special focus at INDEX 14 on nonwovens solutions for the packaging and automotive industries.

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, more and more developing countries are seeing their packaging waste increase significantly as their living standards rise. Global initiatives geared toward reducing a product’s environmental impact, along with customer demand for sustainability, have led to a movement to reduce packaging waste. Nonwovens have increasingly become a choice material in the packaging industry, as they are lightweight, and reducing industrial packaging weight results in less raw material used, reduced energy used in production, and reduced carbon dioxide emissions generated by transportation. The hygiene and medical sectors in particular have been dedicated to the waste reduction effort, and thanks to nonwovens, the packaging of absorbable hygiene products has been reduced by 41 percent since 1987, EDANA reports. In addition, nonwovens are long-lasting and highly tear-resistant, extending the lifespan of packaging such as shipping bags.

The use of textiles in both interior and exterior automotive applications is expected to increase from 20 kilograms (kg) per automobile to 30 kg by 2015, EDANA reports. The organization also notes that in today’s automobile, more than 40 parts — including engine covers, cabin air filters, seating upholstery, airbags and battery separators — are made using nonwovens.

In the automotive industry, demand for improved safety and comfort and more sustainable products has risen, leading to the increased usage of textiles, and particularly nonwovens, in vehicles. Nonwovens offer many benefits when used in automotive applications, including improved vehicle efficiency, weight savings, reduced energy consumption, smart acoustic insulation, filtration and added protection.





(Top to bottom): Nonwovens applications to be presented at INDEX 14 include: materials for automotive interiors; insulation materials for construction; filtration materials; and materials for packaging, such as bags.

Show Highlights
Other features at INDEX 14 include free-of-charge, short “Taster” training courses in absorbent hygiene products and filtration applications; a general Nonwovens course; a Research & Innovation showcase; the Product Presentation Forum; and many additional side events.

EDANA once again will present the INDEX 14 Awards, which recognize excellence in the nonwovens and related industries. The competition is open to all EDANA member companies and INDEX 14 exhibitors. Participants may submit only one product per category, but they are free to enter as many categories as desired. Products must be commercially available at submission time, and must not have been launched commercially before April 2011. The INDEX 14 Award categories include:

  • Nonwoven roll goods;
  • Finished products made from, or incorporating nonwovens;
  • Achievement for the most original marketing campaign for a product made from, or incorporating nonwovens;
  • Raw materials or components — innovation in a raw material or component, for example, polymer, fiber, binder, film or tape; or if other than nonwoven, of special relevance to the nonwovens industry and related converted products industry;
  • Innovation in machinery of special relevance to the nonwovens industry;
  • Sustainable product; and
  • Sustainable process or management practice.

EDANA will present the INDEX 14 awards at a special awards ceremony on Tuesday, April 8. Winners will receive specially commissioned bronze sculptures and diplomas.  

The exhibit hall for INDEX 14 will be open April 8-10 from 9 a.m. until 6 p.m., and on April 11 from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m.


For more information about INDEX 14, visit index14.org.


January/February 2014

Spuntech To Expand Roxboro, N.C., Facility, Add 60 Jobs

Spuntech Industries Inc., the U.S. division of Israel-based N.R. Spuntech Industries Ltd., will invest more than $35 million over the next three years to expand its Roxboro, N.C., facility and add 60 jobs.

“We are very excited about the additional investment in the Roxboro site,” said Gidi Krasny, CEO, Spuntech. “With the success of our last investment, we look forward to a bright future in the U.S. with our new expansion. We appreciate the support of the local community as well as the state of North Carolina in assisting us in providing high quality people to match our state of the art operation.”

Spuntech Industries manufactures viscose, polyester and polypropylene spunlaced fabrics in base weights of 45 to 200 grams per square meter and in a variety of finishes. Capacity at the Roxboro facility currently totals some 12,000 to 14,000 tons annually.

January/February 2014

Zimmer, SeattleChem, Unveil CombiPRINT-PP7

J. Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH, Austria and SeattleChem LLC, Seattle, have codeveloped CombiPRINT-PP7, an oil-free powder thickener system for use with carpet and textile printing technologies.

The companies report the system offers advantages over oil-based thickeners including: excellent print definition and penetration with unmatched color yield; high performance and thickening properties; a simple cleaning and drying process; an environmentally friendly, non-toxic and nonhazardous process; compatibility with ChromoJET and screen printing; and cost efficiency, as it typically does not require additional chemicals such as penetration agents, foaming agents, antifoam and acid donors.

 The CombiPRINT-PP7 system is compatible with all dyes used for carpet printing, including those for nylon, wool, acrylic, polyester and cationic polyester.

January/February 2014

Nike Implements DyeCoo Technology In Taiwan Plant

Nike Inc., Beaverton, Ore., has opened a water-free dyeing facility at its Taiwan-based contract manufacturer Far Eastern New Century Corp. (FENC). The new facility utilizes the Netherlands-based DyeCoo Textile Systems BV’s recycled supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2) dyeing technology to dye polyester fabrics. The recycled CO2 replaces water and additional process chemicals in the dyeing process. The colors achieved using the process, called “ColorDry” by Nike, are reportedly more saturated and consistent than colors achieved using traditional dyeing processes.

“Compared to traditional dyeing methods, the ColorDry process reduces dyeing time by 40 percent, energy use by around 60 percent and the required factory footprint by a quarter,” said Kuenlin Ho, executive vice president, FENC. “It’s also the most saturated, intense and consistent color we’ve seen,” he added. FENC is using dyes from Huntsman Textile Effects, Singapore, which has teamed with DyeCoo to commercialize the CO2 technology.

DyeCoo plans to open a service office in Taiwan and also is working to develop the technology to use with cotton and other natural-fiber fabrics.

January/February 2014

More Denim … More Knits

When Germany-based H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG introduced its 2014 Spring/Summer trend denim collection, it was so successful that the company followed up with another group of inspirational garments for Fall/Winter 2014-15 — all knitted on the company’s new CMS ADF-3 machine. “There is great interest in knitted denim,” said Jörg Hartmann, head of fashion and technology, Stoll. “People like the variety and comfort of knitted garments. A lot of them are deceiving — they look as if they were woven.”

The Stoll collection uses a variety of yarns, mostly from Italian spinners. There are Merino wool, acrylic and cotton yarns, sometimes blended with polyester, linen and elastane, from Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia S.p.A., Igea, Sesia, New Mill, Filati Be.Mi.Va, Cofil and C.T.F., based in Italy; W. Zimmermann GmbH & Co. KG and Otto Stiftung, Germany; Unitin, Spain; and Vernitas, Lithuania.

Garments range from jackets, pocketed pullovers, ponchos, vests, cardigans and coats to skirts, jeans, caps and scarves. All have been made on Stoll’s new CMS 530 ADF-3 machine. A variety of pattern work, pockets, collars, hoods and other treatments are knitted in novelty stitches and colors. All are seamless, soft and warm; and all have a denim look. There are intarsias, jacquards, plated knits, inlays, aged looks, patchwork patterns, layers, single and double jerseys, and changing colors.

One hooded denim cardigan was knitted with two layers: The inside is Merino wool, and the outside is indigo-dyed cotton. It has an aged look that is achieved by the knitting technique, reinforced elbows in a twilled alternate single-knit structure, and a plush back extension in a double devoré knit. A multi-gauge coat has the look of different-colored patchwork patterns sewn together in red. It is a jacquard that was knitted on Stoll’s new machine in a matter of minutes.

Stoll’s CMS 530 ADF-3 machine has been purchased in Europe by manufacturers in France, Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom. Three U.S. firms have bought this equipment to use for technical applications and apparel.

January/February 2014

Tennessee Apparel, Gore Produce CB Clothing System

Military garments maker Tennessee Apparel Corp. (TAC), Tullahoma, Tenn., and GORE-TEX® fabric maker W.L. Gore & Associates Inc., Newark, Del., have partnered to produce a chemical and biological (CB) protective clothing system that will offer enhanced protection and reduced thermal burden for U.S. special operations personnel.

TAC will produce the garments under contract for the Uniform Integrated Protection Ensemble Increment 1 effort. The protective ensemble comprises a lightweight combat uniform worn over a protective undergarment made of Gore’s stretch GORE® CHEMPAK® selectively permeable fabric. Gore reports the fabric features a comfortable stretch construction that requires no thermal insulating layer next to the skin, thus further reducing heat stress and also increasing heat loss through convection.

The layered system protects against warfare agents as well as exposure to petroleum, oils, lubricants and other environmental contaminants. It may be worn during land or sea combat operations in any climate with minimal impact on combat effectiveness, the companies report. In addition, the undergarment design can be easily incorporated with other combat gear and personal protective equipment. 

January/February 2014

Interfilière Comes To New York

Interfilière recently made a visit to New York. Sponsored by Wichita, Kan.-based Invista and organized by France-based Eurovet, the show was well-attended and received. There were 21 exhibitors from around the world and a presentation of upcoming intimate apparel and swimwear looks.

TVB GmbH, Germany, a supplier of fine-gauge technical knits, showed functional, high-performance single jerseys and interlocks. A single jersey of 92-percent silk/8-percent LYCRA®, designed for lingerie and bodywear, was knitted on a circular, fine-gauge machine. There are cotton/spandex and nylon/spandex jerseys, bra-cup fabrics and super-micro polyester shiny shoulder-strap fabrics.

Tianhai Lace Co. Ltd. Inc., China, sells to manufacturers of swimwear and intimate apparel. Lycra BEAUTY is blended with nylon for swimwear.


Interfilière exhibitor Grupo Industrial Miro showed its fabrics, which are made of U.S.-grown cotton and feature modal, rayon or polyester blended with LYCRA®.

Rosset, Brazil, knits all of its fabric in Brazil. Most of it is nylon/Lycra for lingerie, swimwear and athletic markets; or polyester/Lycra for special orders. One fabric moves in all directions. For swimwear, there are digital prints.

Italian knitter and printer Piave Maitex produces all of its fabrics in Italy. It has installed equipment for circular, warp and raschel knitting; and digital printing. Most of its fabrics are nylon/Lycra or cotton/Lycra. It offers metallic printing and manufactures engineered bands.

At Noyon, France, laces are woven in France and knits are made in Sri Lanka. Most of the line is nylon/ spandex. There are cotton, silk, wool and other natural fibers in the couture line. Narrow fabrics of 23 centimeters are available for intimates; and Chantilly lace, for couture.

Liebaert, Belgium, sells ultrafine knitted fabrics to the swim and intimate apparel markets. There are 50-gauge warp knits of nylon/Lycra that have a compact, woven look with a sheen; and digital and pigment prints and panel fabrics that have reinforced edges, thus eliminating the need to sew a hem.

Tricots and lightweight mesh in solids and prints are available at Darlington Fabrics Corp., part of The Moore Co., Westerly, R.I. The company sells to swimwear, performance and on-field athleticwear manufacturers. There are matte surfaces, metallics and neon shades. A 6-ounce matte tricot of nylon/spandex is its best seller.

Another U.S. firm, Elastic Fabrics of America Inc., Greensboro, N.C., sells warp and circular knits to manufacturers of intimates, swimwear, activewear, and medical textiles. Basic fabrics are made with nylon, polyester, cotton or rayon blended with spandex.

At Willy Hermann, Austria, a blend of MicroModal®, nylon and Lycra is selling for lingerie. There are dense, double-faced cotton/nylon/Lycra bra-cup fabrics that don’t need lamination; men’s underwear fabrics in gray, black, and white stripes; and MicroModal/Lycra scented fabrics. The scent lasts through 30 washings.

Grupo Industrial Miro, Mexico, spins, knits, dyes, prints and finishes its fabrics made of U.S.-grown cotton. Modal, rayon or polyester are blended with Lycra. Neon shades of turquoise, emerald and coral are best sellers. Customers include Target, Kohl’s and Macy’s.

Lingerie and swimwear trends for Spring/Summer 2015 were presented by Eurovet. Overall, there is a feeling of wellbeing. Although the first direction featured white, the season ahead will be colorful.

Heritage is seen in the trends, but it has an active look. There are seamless garments and microfibers. And corsets are back. There are a lot of lace, beading and prints. Fabrics can be airy, transparent and voluminous.

One trend features sumptuousness, with Venetian splendor and Gothic twists. There is a sexy look to garments dyed in black, burgundy and navy. Creature comforts are in a playful group that features bright colors. Look for reds and citrus shades, small prints and colorful solids. There is swimwear that is resistant to chlorine, and long-lasting fit with a lot of performance.

January/February 2014

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