When Germany-based H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG introduced its 2014 Spring/Summer trend denim collection, it was so successful that the company followed up with another group of inspirational garments for Fall/Winter 2014-15 — all knitted on the company’s new CMS ADF-3 machine. “There is great interest in knitted denim,” said Jörg Hartmann, head of fashion and technology, Stoll. “People like the variety and comfort of knitted garments. A lot of them are deceiving — they look as if they were woven.”
The Stoll collection uses a variety of yarns, mostly from Italian spinners. There are Merino wool, acrylic and cotton yarns, sometimes blended with polyester, linen and elastane, from Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia S.p.A., Igea, Sesia, New Mill, Filati Be.Mi.Va, Cofil and C.T.F., based in Italy; W. Zimmermann GmbH & Co. KG and Otto Stiftung, Germany; Unitin, Spain; and Vernitas, Lithuania.
Garments range from jackets, pocketed pullovers, ponchos, vests, cardigans and coats to skirts, jeans, caps and scarves. All have been made on Stoll’s new CMS 530 ADF-3 machine. A variety of pattern work, pockets, collars, hoods and other treatments are knitted in novelty stitches and colors. All are seamless, soft and warm; and all have a denim look. There are intarsias, jacquards, plated knits, inlays, aged looks, patchwork patterns, layers, single and double jerseys, and changing colors.
One hooded denim cardigan was knitted with two layers: The inside is Merino wool, and the outside is indigo-dyed cotton. It has an aged look that is achieved by the knitting technique, reinforced elbows in a twilled alternate single-knit structure, and a plush back extension in a double devoré knit. A multi-gauge coat has the look of different-colored patchwork patterns sewn together in red. It is a jacquard that was knitted on Stoll’s new machine in a matter of minutes.
Stoll’s CMS 530 ADF-3 machine has been purchased in Europe by manufacturers in France, Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom. Three U.S. firms have bought this equipment to use for technical applications and apparel.