Innovations In Textile Machinery: Wet Processing

As the 2015 ITMA in Milan approaches, a review of the current offerings in textile wet processing machinery is in order. A representative group of manufacturers of preparation, dyeing, printing, and finishing equipment provided current innovations on offer from their companies. As might be expected, most of the machinery changes are incremental and evolutionary rather than revolutionary, but a few manufacturers have come forth with truly new ideas.

Preparation Machinery
Switzerland-based Benninger AG has redesigned its Fortracta prewasher to maximize removal of surface contaminants. A novel vertical counterflow arrangement optimizes use of water and energy. Trikoflex, Benninger’s low-tension washer, is intended for elastic knits and crease prone wovens. Improved washing efficiency is provided by the unique grooved drum surface.

Dyeing Machinery
The new Pulsar package-dyeing machine from Italy-based Loris Bellini S.r.l. comes with a circulation pump and hydraulic circuit that can provide 70-percent energy savings with 30-percent fewer chemicals and water while operating at a liquor to goods ratio of 3.8:1.

Italy-based Brazzoli S.p.A. offers Innowash, an enhanced washing process for its 3.8:1 liquor to goods ratio Ecologic translational flow piece-dyeing machine. The amount of washing required is determined automatically to minimize water usage.

Dyeing polyester in supercritical carbon dioxide has been commercialized by The Netherlands-based DyeCoo Textile Systems BV. Both Nike and adidas have developed programs using fabric dyed in the DyeCoo process with dye press cakes from Singapore-based Huntsman Textile Effects. Significant savings in energy and process time have been realized by both companies — 60 percent and 40 percent respectively.

Germany-based Erbatech GmbH has optimized its Scout Color® cold pad batch dyeing system for low utilities use. Additional improvements include adjustable nip pressure to insure uniform wet pickup.

Italy-based Flainox S.r.l. has declared a focus on sustainability with its NRG-DL garment dyeing machine. The NRG-DL processes garments at a low 5:1 liquor to goods ratio and can measure energy, water, and chemical usage in real time, allowing for process optimization with minimal utility and chemical use. Flainox has introduced a novel dyeing system designed for use with natural dyes. The AOM/C-WOOL, is actually an extraction-dyeing-dyebath recycle system where the chosen plant material is extracted just prior to application. After the textile has been dyed, the dyebath is recovered for further use, a typical practice with natural dyes. Flainox has demonstrated a further commitment to sustainability by reducing the carbon footprint in its manufacturing plant by 50 percent.
 


NRG-DL garment dyeing machine from Flainox S.r.l. dyes at a low 5:1 liquor ratio.

Fong’s National Engineering Co. Ltd., Hong Kong, offers the Allwin, a package-dyeing machine with a very low 4:1 liquor to goods ratio and expected savings of 50 percent in process time and water usage. The Jumboflow piece dyeing machine from Fong’s claims 40-percent savings in water and steam, 50-percent less energy requirements, and a 33-percent process time savings while dyeing in a 5:1 liquor to goods ratio.


Fong’s National Engineering Co.’s Jumboflow piece-dyeing machine was designed with water, energy and time savings in mind.

The use of air to dilute dyes and chemicals prior to application has been championed by Gaston Systems Inc., Stanley, N.C. Its CFS® Chemical Foam System enables denim to be dyed with indigo and sulfur dyes at 8- to 15-percent wet pickup while cotton can be continuously dyed with fiber reactive dyes at 10- to 40-percent wet pickup without tailing.

Germany-based Then Maschinen GmbH, a Fong’s Europe GmbH company, has improved upon the Then-Airflow Synergy® system with two machines, the DSYN G2 for dyeing under pressure and the SYN A G1 for atmospheric pressure dyeings. Both machines provide significant savings in water, energy, steam and salt.

The iMaster series from Thies GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, includes the iMaster H2O designed to dye elastic containing cotton and cotton blends at a 3.7:1 liquor ratio at temperatures of up to 140°C. An improved internal support reduces fabric tensions during processing and a combined cooling and rinsing system significantly reduces process time. The iMaster F was specifically designed to dye terry cloth at a 4.5:1 liquor to goods ratio with vat dyes using the proVAT system. Thies’ soft-TRD SIII is said to be a universal dyeing machine with flexible liquor to goods ratios from 10:1 to 4.5:1. For package dyeing, the iCone was redesigned to minimize floor space requirements while operating at a 3.6:1 liquor to goods ratio. Optimized circulation, rinsing, and heating systems were incorporated into the redesign.

Printing Machinery
Switzerland-based Jakob Müller AG offers the MÜPRINT MDP2 E, an ink-jet printer designed for elastic and non-elastic narrow polyester woven, knit, and nonwoven fabrics. The machine prints with disperse inks and heat sets the printed fabric in one continuous operation.
 


Jakob Müller’s MÜPRINT MDP2 E is an ink-jet printer for narrow fabrics.

An ink-jet printer from Reggiani Macchine S.p.A., Italy, the ReNOIR-Compact, was designed to print paper for transfer printing. The ReNOIR-Compact is capable of printing paper at a production speed of 4,000 square feet per hour.
 


Reggiani’ Macchine’s ReNOIR-Compact ink-jet printer prints paper for transfer printing.

The Netherlands-based SPGPrints BV has announced an as yet unnamed digital printer that was shown to select customers in December 2014 and displayed at ITMA 2015. The six- to nine-color high-speed single-pass printer is predicted to provide the lowest cost ink-jet printing cost per linear meter.

Digital ink supplier Xennia Technology Ltd., England, has announced two new lines of inks — the Agate® line of acid dye inks for nylon, wool, and silk; and the Corundum® line of disperse dye inks for transfer printing paper. These inks join the fiber reactive Amethyst® and ultraviolet curable Moissante® inks in Xennia’s product line.

Austria-based J. Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH has expanded its Colaris digital printing system to tufted carpet — up to a 4.2 meter width at 5 meters per minute (m/min) — terry towels — a 2.2 meter width with up to 16 colors at 72 dpi and 120 square meters per hour (m2/hr) — and needlepunch polyester nonwovens — up to a 4.2 meter width at 1,000 m2/hr. The Zimmer Chromojet provides 10-color digital printing of blankets at 6.3 m/min. Zimmer reports it soon will introduce a digital printer for yarns.


Zimmer recently extended its Colaris digital printing system to tufted carpet.

Finishing Machinery
Italy-based Biancalani S.r.l. offers the Airo®24, a tumble dryer with processing speeds to 2,500 m/min with evaporation rates of 750 kilograms per hour. The Brio® from Biancalani, a relaxation dryer for knits, sports high-capacity drying without causing pilling.

Germany-based Brückner Trockentechnik GmbH & Co. KG is promoting the Power-Frame, a tenter frame that claims 33-percent energy savings with redesigned nozzles, automatic lint screen cleaning, and independent upper and lower air flow controls. Brückner’s Leonberg, Germany, location houses production scale machinery for customer evaluation of finishing, coating, heat setting, and laminating processes.

The Allround® Coating Head from A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, provides multiple coating options on full-width fabrics. The Thermex Econtrol T-CA process for dyeing polyester/cotton blends reduces the number of processing steps while providing high quality dyeings with significant cost saving. The Matex ECO applicator allows for precision low wet pickup application of chemical finishes with the potential of producing dual sided treatments. The Montex 8000 tenter frame incorporates the Eco Booster HRC heat recovery system and a split thermal system to allow different upper and lower fabric temperatures. Production trials can be run at the Monforts Advanced Technology Center in Mönchengladbach, Germany.


Monforts’ Allround® coating technology offers multiple options for full-width fabrics.

Morrison Textile Machinery Co., Fort Lawn, S.C., has announced Morrison On Call, a web based remote access system to allow software and firmware downloads and remote diagnostics and machine monitoring.

Textile processing from liquid carbon dioxide is available from Tersus Solutions from CO2Nexus Inc., Littleton, Colo. Textiles can be cleaned and treated with high value chemical finishes with using less water and energy.

From a sampling of the current textile wet processing machinery, ITMA 2015 should be a very interesting and exciting event. The textile machinery industry is sure to continue to introduce textile wet processing equipment that will reduce the industry’s use of water and energy while providing high quality textiles.
 

Dr. Peter J. Hauser is a professor and Interim Head at North Carolina State University’s College Of Textiles, Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science. This article is based on Hauser’s presentation given at the 2014 Textile World Innovation Forum.

January/February 2015

Atlas Copco Compressors Save Energy

Rock Hill, S.C.-based Atlas Copco Compressors LLC estimates its variable speed drive (VSD) technology has saved customers $300 million in energy costs since 1994.

“According to greenhouse gas calculations by the Environmental Protection Agency, the amount of kilowatt-hours saved annually by our VSD compressors is equivalent to avoiding the carbon dioxide emissions of 51,029 homes’ electricity use, or removing 78,101 passenger vehicles from the road,” said Robert Eshelman, vice president, Atlas Copco’s Industrial Air division.

According to the company, based on the number of VSD compressors operating in the U.S., approximately 538 million kilowatt-hours and $53 million in energy savings are realized annually.

January/February 2015

Oeko-Tex® Debuts New “Made in Green” Label

Switzerland-based Oeko-Tex® Association has introduced the “Made in Green by Oeko-Tex”
label, which replaces the Oeko-Tex Standard 100plus and “Made in Green by Aitex” labels. Oeko-Tex recently acquired rights to the “Made in Green” label and now is the exclusive issuer. The new label certifies
the textiles have been manufactured in an environmentally friendly and socially responsible manner.

“As a logical enhancement of our product portfolio, the ‘Made in Green by Oeko-Tex’ label offers companies in the textile industry the perfect tool for communicating to the consumer their commitment to sustainability directly on the product,”said Dr. Jean-Pierre Haug, secretary general, Oeko-Tex. “The basic difference and added value when compared to its predecessors, is in the transparency of the new ‘Made in Green by
Oeko-Tex’ label for the consumers.”

January/February 2015

The Rupp Report: Evergreen Industrial Fabrics

For the Western textile industry in general, and for European producers in particular, technical textiles were and are the main anchor of prosperity over the past 25 years. Growth rates remain steady.
 
Today, there are virtually no areas where technical textiles could not be applied in any some form. However, there are a few things to be considered to be successful in the nonwovens sector. Parallel to the sector’s growth, the specialized exhibition Techtextil in Frankfurt along with its associated events in other cities around the world, has become the number one event for this sector of the industry.
 
Techtextil 2015
In the beginning in 1986, the show was not accepted at all by the industry. It was wishful thinking was the least negative comment made about the show back then. At that time, only DuPont with a big booth was sure this will be the future. Today, everybody knows, this is the future. Exhibitors and visitors are looking forward to the biggest Techtextil ever May 4-7, 2015. According to show organizers Messe Frankfurt, by now the floor space booked already is 10-percent higher than the total space occupied in 2013. In addition to international market leaders, numerous new exhibitors have already signed up for Techtextil 2015.
 
For the third time, Techtextil will be held concurrently with Texprocess, an international trade fair for processing textiles and flexible materials. The following countries will be represented by their own pavilions: Belgium; China; France; Great Britain; Italy; Portugal; South Korea; Taiwan; Turkey; and the United States. New is a Swiss pavilion.
 
Apparel People
“Quite remarkable is the fact that apparel manufacturers too from all over the world will present their latest developments in the sectors of functional apparel and smart textiles”, says Michael Jänecke, director, Brand Management Technical Textiles & Textile Processing, Messe Frankfurt, at a recent Techtextil press conference. According to Jänecke, there is a remarkable array of companies, which are by now known to be very active in the field of apparel, such as Huntsman Advanced Materials, Klopman International, Outlast Europe, Schoeller Textil and Toray GmbH.
 
Modified Program Of Events
For the first time, the show will last four days. For many years, the Rupp Report has complained that this event should take place over four days, instead of three, because the number of side events has increased. Many exhibitors claimed that they don’t want to pay for floor space and the visitors are going to attend more seminars than visit booths.
 
The Techtextil program of events has now been expanded and optimized for 2015. The new center of Techtextil and the concurrent Texprocess is the “Innovative Apparel Show” — four universities and fashion schools will present their innovative designs on all four days of the fair. This also should illuminate synergies with Texprocess, the Trade Fair for Processing Textile and Flexible Materials, parallel to Techtextil.
 
The concept of the Techtextil Symposium also has been modified: The themes of the third event, the Avantex Symposium for functional apparel textiles, have been integrated into the four-day congress. Instead of concurrent lectures, the Techtextil Symposium is now split into six successive lecture blocks in hall 4.2, the middle of the fair.
 
Subjects to be covered at the Techtextil Symposium 2015 include thermoplastic composites, bio-based polymer composites, hybrid yarns, self-cleaning textiles, 3-D printing, 3-D spacer fabrics for personal protective equipment, multiaxial technologies for customized technical textiles, smart fabrics, and a lecture on the Spacetex project.
 
The Commerzbank Report
Despite all the positive news, it is difficult to get real facts and figures about the technical textiles and nonwovens markets. The most prominent reason is possibly the fact that such a task is very expensive and difficult to achieve. However, at the recent Techtextil press conference, Jürgen Grebe, corporate sector analyst with Germany-based Commerzbank AG, presented an outstanding report, which provides comprehensive insights into the growth perspectives of the technical textiles sector.
 
Also Commerzbank realized that technical textiles are conquering more and more new application areas and are superceding conventional materials. Examples of this are reinforcement materials made of textiles in concrete construction, artificial arteries in medical technology, and textile sandwich materials in vehicle construction and sporting equipment. And this is just a few insights into this extraordinary work. The Rupp Report will come back to this work in a future column.
 
Nonwovens With A Substantial Contribution
In the period from 2007-2013, European manufacturers of technical textiles saw stronger growth than the European economy as a whole. In the crisis years 2008, and in particular 2009, above-average slumps were visible, however. The subsegment nonwovens, the production of which has increased by 11 percent since 2011, made a substantial contribution to this growth. According to Grebe, for 2015, it is to be assumed that this area, as well as the other technical textiles, will see a moderate rise of some 2 percent in the production index. However, with the textile-reinforced fiber composites – the so-called composites – the high level seen in 2007 will not be attained again due to weak demand in France, Spain and Italy. In contrast, German, British, and Eastern European manufacturers posted considerable increases in production.
 
With a smile Grebe explained that the winning goal in the 2014 World Cup final was scored by Mario Götze from Germany who was wearing a “knitted” soccer shoe — showing that new manufacturing methods constantly are being developed. Technology leadership is, therefore, a key success factor. “The German sector is regarded as the global technology market leader, also thanks to the excellent networking with the German research sector, which is itself unique worldwide,” said Grebe. He also stated the focus was on high-quality, sophisticated product areas, and the sector was avoiding to the greatest possible degree competition with suppliers of mass-produced goods and low-quality products, that were primarily based in Asia. “Looked at that way, the German sector is predominantly the result of a successful structural change on the part of producers of traditional textiles to become highly technical and specialist manufacturers of high-quality textile products,” he added.
 
Favorable Growth Rates
Through to 2018, the global market for conventional textiles is set to grow from somewhat more than $130 billion at present to as much as $160 billion, states the report. In this respect, the most important buyer area remains the automotive industry. Yet sectors such as construction textiles and geotextiles, as well as niches such as ecotextiles, are gaining in significance. For nonwovens, it is expected that worldwide sales will increase from $33 billion at present to more than $42 billion by 2017. Here, the biggest buyer area remains the hygiene sector, Grebe stated. Higher growth rates are believed to be possible for composites — in particular due to strong demand in the buyer sectors vehicle construction, wind energy and aviation. At present the global market volume for composite materials is estimated to be just less than $100 billion. In total, the global market volume for technical textiles is currently more than $250 billion.

January 27, 2007

Domotex 2015 Sees Highly International Turnout

HANNOVER, Germany/CHICAGO — January 22, 2015 — Innovations, inspiration and sales — those are the words that best summarize DOMOTEX 2015. The world’s flagship trade fair for carpets and floor coverings served once again as the No. 1 meeting place for a vibrant sector and its clientele. Following four action-packed days, the show’s organizers at Deutsche Messe declared a solid performance for the event. Its highly international mix of exhibitors and attendees as well as the success of the special Innovations@DOMOTEX showcase underscored the tradeshow’s reputation as a global magnet for decision-makers and a prime venue for unveiling new innovations.

“We are delighted with the show’s performance. It had everything: a highly attractive lineup of exhibitors and products, solid attendance figures, high-caliber trade visitors, a great many innovations and a highly international mix of exhibitors and visitors. This is something which was immediately evident – at every stand, in every hall,” said Dr. Jochen Köckler, the Deutsche Messe Managing Board member in charge of DOMOTEX. “This year’s DOMOTEX got international trading off to a splendid start, and has given the carpets and floor coverings industry every reason to be optimistic about the year ahead,” he added.

DOMOTEX 2015 attracted some 40,000 visitors from 100 different countries. Total attendance was thus slightly higher than for the most recent comparable DOMOTEX in 2013. The majority of visitors came from European Union countries. A significant upswing was noted in attendance from the Middle East and South, East and Central Asia.

This year’s DOMOTEX visitors were also highly qualified, with approximately 90 percent reporting they either were buyers or involved in their companies’ purchasing decisions, and that they had come to Hannover with specific investment plans. More than 70 percent of all attendees were senior executives. The event was also a magnet for buyers from the interior decorating and furniture trades, and attendance on the part of skilled tradespeople and retail professionals was up over the most recent comparable show held in 2013. A rise in attendance was also noted for architects, interior designers and contract business professionals.

World’s largest display of carpets and floor coverings
DOMOTEX 2015 was staged in a total of 12 halls, making it the world’s largest display of carpets and floor coverings. 1,323 exhibitors from 63 different countries were on hand to demonstrate their creativity and skill, and over 85 percent of these exhibitors came from abroad. DOMOTEX literally “floored” its audience with a stunning array of innovations across the featured product categories: resilient and textile floor coverings, parquet and laminate flooring, woven and tufted carpets and application and installation technologies. In the words of Dr. Köckler: “The focus at this year’s DOMOTEX has been on unconventional materials, newly interpreted designs and state-of-the-art manufacturing technologies. Sustainability has also been a key issue. One impressive trend observed is the comeback of the Persian rug as a trendy, contemporary ingredient of interior design.”

Upbeat mood throughout the halls
DOMOTEX 2015 was also clearly a success from the industry’s perspective. “For us, DOMOTEX is an ideal place to meet up with our customers and generate new leads. Here in Hannover, in the course of just a few days we are able to reach a global audience with our innovations,” said Johannes Schulte, President and Chief Executive Officer of Vorwerk Teppichwerke, based in Hamlin, Germany.

Heinz Dieter Gras, Marketing Manager of Classen Gruppe in Kaisersesch, Germany, also praised the event: “For us as one of the world’s leading manufacturers of laminate and designer floorings, taking part in DOMOTEX is an absolute must. We come every year because this is our chance to see all of our key business partners from Germany and abroad. We regard DOMOTEX as the most important floor coverings event of all.”
 
Alex Jauregui, Senior vice president, Carpet Business, Mannington Commercial of Calhoun, Ga., also gave a thumbs-up to the outcome of the show: “Again and again, DOMOTEX is the sector’s best meeting place. For us as a U.S. company, it is absolutely essential to exhibit here at the sector’s leading event, for this is where we can reach our customers.  DOMOTEX also excels at enabling us to find new business partners.”
 
Innovations@DOMOTEX a major attraction
Following its successful debut last year, the Innovations@DOMOTEX showcase was a great success again in 2015. One of the special highlights consisted of the Innovations@DOMOTEX areas, designed as a compact and clearly laid-out showcase for 70 outstanding innovations in textile and resilient floor coverings, parquet and laminate flooring, plus contemporary handcrafted carpets and rugs. For the first time, these three special areas also included innovations in application and installation products and services.

Also in great demand were the Guided Tours, with architectural and interior design experts presenting a selection of exhibitor innovations, as well as the Innovations@DOMOTEX Talks, which highlighted key industry issues. Top international designers like Stefan Diez, Roberto Palomba and Ross Lovegrove were on hand to take part in panel discussions, lectures and Guided Tours, further boosting the status of DOMOTEX as a key source of new inspiration for architects, designers and planners. In the words of Roberto Palomba: “Innovations@DOMOTEX puts a completely new spin on visiting the fair. Attendees not only receive welcome support with finding stands of interest to them, but are even guided from highlight to highlight. At each stand they are treated to in-depth explanations and demonstrations, enabling them to gather a maximum of valuable information in a minimum of time.”

There was also plenty of excitement surrounding the Carpet Design Awards, presented by Innovations@DOMOTEX. This internationally renowned prize goes to the world’s best designer carpets and rugs in eight different categories. The decision to make the Innovations@DOMOTEX display the physical venue and thematic backdrop for the awards gave DOMOTEX 2015 a new highlight in Hall 17. “This award is our ultimate challenge as creative artists. And the integration of the awards here in Hall 17 further highlights the sense of a busy, vibrant marketplace which is so evident here. This is a place for intensive dialogue and interaction, making it one of the real hot spots at DOMOTEX,” explained Jürgen Dahlmanns, General Manager and designer at the Berlin-based Rug Star company.

The next DOMOTEX runs from January 16-19, 2016.

Posted January 27, 2015

Source: Domotex
 

W. L. Gore & Associates is the OEKO-TEX® Company of the Month for January

ZURICH, Switzerland — January 23, 2015 —The US family business W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc. has made a significant name for itself in the textile sector, primarily through its textile laminates based on the patented membrane technology GORE-TEX®. A large number of renowned outdoor brands are now using this laminate in the manufacture of clothing and waterproof footwear. Whether in cycling gear, ski pants, mountaineering boots or professional protective clothing – GORE-TEX function textiles remain durably waterproof, wind proof and breathable. The company provides its “GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY™“ guarantee for all GORETEX products in its recreation and fashion range. In the area of product safety, Gore has implemented the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 worldwide for over 20 years now, receiving its first certifications in 1996. The requirements of the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 are met not only by its functional fabrics for occupational and recreational clothing, but also by its seam tapes and semi-finished products (its glove inserts, for instance).

Today, Gore has firmly established itself as one of the leading manufacturers in the functional textiles sector. As a company with a technologically-orientated tradition, Gore places premium value on research and product innovation. The company has a wide range of products that includes the textile material GORE-TEX, cables for telecommunications, medical implants, filter tubes for power plants and highly-specialised products for use in industry and aeronautics and aerospace electronics. Based in Newark (Delaware) in the USA, Gore employs over 10,000 staff worldwide and has an annual turnover of more than USD 3 billion. The company is a global player with production operations in the USA, Germany, Great Britain, Japan and China. Gore commenced its business operations in Europe a number of years after the company was founded in 1958.

The company now has sales offices and production sites in a large number of European countries and provides a wide variety of products for all kinds of use in local markets. Gore is one of the few companies to have repeatedly been chosen as one of the 100 best employers in the USA since 1984. The company has also been considered as one of the most attractive employers in Germany, France, Great Britain, Italy and Sweden for some time now. Gore was also recently chosen as one of the best employers in China.

Bernhard Kiehl, Head of the Sustainability Program in the Gore Fabrics Division, sees this as the affirmation of the core values of a unique company philosophy: “We have created a corporate culture based on personal responsibility and fun at work. This is augmented by our conviction that people are self-motivated to work and be successful.” Bernhard Kiehl explains: “From the outset, the company founders Bill and Vieve Gore were of the belief that a person was at their most creative when working within a team of equals – within a network based around a level and closely linked grid structure. At its core is anetwork of manageable units with direct communication channels. The employees act based on their own personal understanding of “commitment”. They are therefore not asked to do something, but commit to doing it voluntarily.” In this sense, employees are also considered “associates”, and they devote themselves to projects that suit their capabilities. At Gore, a leadership role has to be acquired based on specialist knowledge, social competency and other factors. This also reflects the fact that the team respects the role of leadership.

Gore has always followed the principle of basing its actions around established scientific knowledge. The company thus complies with all legal environmental regulations and health and safety provisions and – wherever possible – surpasses them through furtherreaching self-imposed standards. Furthermore, all of its production sites have for some time now been certified in accordance with the specifications of the quality management system ISO 9001-9008. An environmental management system has been introduced at all of its production sites and Gore has started the process of receiving certification for them in accordance with ISO 14001. At the core of the environmental approach adopted by Gore is its ecological evaluation tool, Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), sometimes referred to as eco balance. It is a standardised, scientifically approved method that fully assesses the environmental impact created by an end product, from the acquisition of the raw materials, through manufacturing and distribution, up to disposal. Bernhard Kiehl has utmost confidence in this method: “The results of the LCA assessments really show that the most effective means of reducing the environmental impact of functional outdoor clothing is through increasing its functional durability, and thus increasing the product’s lifecycle.

That’s why durability is a real cornerstone of our environmental strategy. Together with our high standards in operational environmental protection and occupational health and safety, the careful handling of resources and an employee-orientated corporate culture, this allows us to fulfil our corporate responsibilities in relation to society and the environment.”

GORE functional textiles now made only with PFOA-free raw materials
At the end of 2013, GORE completed its project to eliminate perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) from all of the raw materials used in the manufacture of its weather-resistant functional textiles. This covers membranes and DWR (Durable Water Repellency) across its entire range of applications, from mountaineering, running, cycling, fashion and lifestyle and outdoor and recreational footwear to work clothing for the fire service and police. PFOA was recently added to the list of “substances of very high concern” under the terms of the European regulation REACH, and regulation of the substance is currently under preparation. With preventive consumer protection in mind, the use of perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) is severely regulated in the OEKO-TEX product certification process regardless.

Posted January 27, 2007

Source: Oeko-Tex Association
 

TRESU Introduces Customised Printing Unit For Integration Into Converting Machines For Sanitary Products

KOLDING, Denmark — January 22, 2015 — Danish flexo technology provider TRESU Group has introduced a flexo printing solution to be integrated inline with converting machines for disposable sanitary napkins.  The unit, custom-developed following long-term collaboration with leading global sanitary napkin brand owners, applies patterns on the inside of the napkin.
 
Allan Sander, Sales Director MBA, Tresu Solutions commented: “Demand for an efficient means of applying patterns has arisen following research that shows increased consumer loyalty to brands featuring printed designs. The customised printing integration   system enables the personal hygiene industry to achieve this, while maintaining a cost-controlled, flexible, single-pass operation.”     
 
Built to accommodate different web-fed materials, the unit comprises up to four water-based colours, a hot air dryer and, at the embossing point, a register guidance camera. The printing solution formation contained within a module offers both a compact footprint and an operator-friendly design.
 
Located at point of embossing, the register guidance system ensures synchronisation of the printed pattern with the crease in the centre of the napkin, at speeds of up to 400 metres per minute (approximately 2,000 pieces per minute). Using the converting machine interface signals as point of reference, the control module influences the servo motors to ensure accuracy is maintained on-the-fly throughout the production run.   Servo drives ensure automatically controlled, precise print speed and ink flow, so that operation without in-house flexo experience or handling is possible.
 
The integration unit includes Tresu’s F10 iCon ink supply system with automatic cleaning, to constantly feed the printing units and maintain optimum viscosity, temperature and pressure. Sealed, pressure-controlled chambered doctor blade systems enable direct, foam-free transfer of ink or coating to the anilox rollers, ensuring a consistently clean printed image.  
 
The system is optimised for fast job changes. A control system stores and, in the case of repeat jobs, instantly recalls job recipes, so no re-entry of ink and calibration data is needed.  At the installation stage, the Tresu technical team works with the customer to build a unique database of recipe settings for each job, including, among others, impression settings, print levels, flow rate, air velocity, temperature and register coordinates.
 
The ability to seamlessly integrate the printing operation into the existing converting and assembly line means that customers can avoid the costs and lengthy lead times associated with outsourcing.
 
‘Tresu collaborated closely with the customer’s research and development division at every step from the concept stage, to customise the machine to suit production requirements and skills levels,’ stated Mr. Sander.
 
‘The projects have been a large success for the customers, with integrations of our high level printing technology into a two-digit number of hygiene converting lines at locations in Europe, USA and Mexico. From Tresu’s perspective, we are proud to have developed the requested solution on time despite demands on safety, process technology and a tight time frame.’

Posted January 27, 2015

Source: Tresu
 

Open House Event At BB Engineering Showcased World’s First Bottle-to-POY Spinning Line VarioFil R+

REMSCHEID, Germany — January 21, 2015 — More than 120 customers from all around the world followed BB Engineering GmbH’s (BBE) invitation to join the unveiling of its new machine during an Open House Event at its facilities in Remscheid, Germany, on January 21, 2015. Visitors saw the world’s first “VarioFil R+” bottle-to-POY line in operation, producing 150f48 dope-dyed black yarn.

The new VarioFil R+ is the world’s first POY spinning line which uses recycled bottle flakes as feedstock for dope-dyed textile POY. The line — developed by the subsidiary company of Oerlikon Barmag — provides several technological features such as a special extrusion system for bottle flake materials, the latest metering and blending technology for dope-dyeing and an advanced 2-step melt filtration. The result is a high quality dope-dyed POY. The turnkey machine comprises 4 spinning positions, each equipped with an Oerlikon Barmag 10-end WINGS® POY winder.

Bottle flakes instead of rPET chips: VarioFil R+ reduces spinning process for one step
PET has become the primary material for beverage packaging, billions of PET bottles are used worldwide each year. This huge quantity of PET bottles, usually disposed as waste after initial use, is a perfect source of raw material for the sustainable production of synthetic fibers. Furthermore, the reutilization of resources and raw materials, along with energy saving production processes, are becoming increasingly popular. The VarioFil R+ concept combines all these trends. It uses PET bottle flakes as a raw material, which avoids the additional pelletizing of bottle flakes into rPET chips. This leads to a significant advantage in terms of investment and energy costs. It also provides the latest technology for dope-dyeing, which is the most resource-saving dyeing process. Hence, the development of VarioFil R+ underlines the trend of increasing demand for textiles made from yarns which have a ‘sustainable background’. It also provides the possibility for recycling companies to sell high-quality yarns instead of bottle flakes, therefore generating added value.

Downstream with Oerlikon Barmag’s eAFK texturing machine proves yarn quality
Further Open House attractions were the live presentation of the texturizing process, converting the manufactured rPOY into DTY on Oerlikon Barmag’s eAFK texturizing machine, as well as BBE’s brand-new cleaning system for melt filters, known as White Filter Cleaning WFC. WFC allows the cleaning of melt filters, but also of other melt-contaminated parts without any chemical solvents and is a good complementary system for the VarioFil R+ line to clean its filtration equipment.

A virtual tour through the new VarioFil® R+ line as well as an impressive insight into the winder assembly department of Oerlikon Barmag, the origin of the famous WINGS POY winder, and several technical presentations covering the fields of recycling, yarn production from recycled feedstock and dope-dyeing all made the Open House an informative day for all participants.
 

Posted January 27, 2007

Source: BB Engineering
 

Lectra And Aubade Working Together To Prepare Future Designers And Pattern Makers

PARIS — January 22, 2015 — Lectra, a leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using soft materials—fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials—and Aubade, the renowned French lingerie brand have announced the results of the Lectra/Aubade 2014 competition. The award shines the spotlight on design and pattern making students from De Monfort University (DMU), UK by tasking students with designing a small lingerie collection that reflects the Aubade brand. Students were required to both design and develop their collections with Lectra’s product development solution, Modaris®.

The inaugural edition of this was open to final-year DMU students. The aim is to get students to develop a 6-piece collection using Lectra’s pattern making solution Modaris, underlining the famous lingerie brand’s DNA, and within the theme of English handwriting. The jury decided to award two students instead of just the one as initially planned because of the exceptional creativity and execution of design. Aubade is pleased to welcome both Ellie Balwako and Hannah Jones, from beginning summer 2015, for 6 month internships in Paris. The first student won for product development and the second one won for design and their internships will reflect this.

“The competition is a reflection of Lectra’s commitment to education, Aubade’s involvement in transmitting the brand’s DNA and DMU’s efforts to favor their students’ employability,” explains Anastasia Charbin, Fashion and Apparel Marketing Director, Lectra.

“This contest with one of Lectra’s education partners represents a great opportunity to meet promising talent, who are immediately operational,” underlines Annie Bureau, Operations Director at Aubade. “De Monfort University has a lingerie program which is specifically adapted to industry needs; students are trained on Lectra’s pattern-making solution, which we’ve used for years,” says Marie-Béatrice Pereira, Development office Manager at Aubade.

“This contest is a true opportunity for our final-year students who were really motivated. They’ve demonstrated great creativity, drawing from Aubade’s brand spirit and concentrating on technical aspects to obtain a perfect fit. They used Lectra solutions, which are at the core of our program and which are an undeniable advantage when looking for a job,” explains Gillian Proctor, Principal Lecturer & Programme and Leader for Contour Fashion.

“This is the story of a wonderful project between Lectra, De Monfort University and Aubade. It is a true exchange between professionals and students. We are very pleased to welcome and to work with young talent who bring a fresh eye and their unique personalities to the Aubade team,” concludes Claire Masson, global brand Director at Aubade.

Founded in 1947, De Monfort University’s 3-year curriculum called “Contour Fashion” is the oldest lingerie diploma in the world. Students are trained on Lectra’s Modaris it is extremely powerful for lingerie, corsetry, activewear, swimwear and underwear.

Posted January 27, 2007

Source: Lectra
 

Brückner Names Fi-Tech Representative For Its Textile Machinery Range

LEONBERG, Germany/ RICHMOND, Va. — January 23, 2015 — Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, has named Fi-Tech Inc. of Richmond, Va., its representative for sales, parts and service in the United States and Canada for their textile machinery product range. Fi-Tech has represented Brückner since 2011 in the field of nonwovens machinery and products. In 2013, the coating sector was added to Fi-Tech’s responsibility and now from January 2015, Fi-Tech will additionally represent Brückner in the field of textile machinery.
 
For more than 65 years, Brückner is the worldwide leading manufacturer of complete coating and finishing lines for woven and knitted fabrics, technical textiles, nonwovens and other coated products. The product range comprises of stenters, relaxation dryers, compactors, sanforizing machines, coating and laminating lines, nonwovens bonding ovens, through flow dryers and others.
 
In their own technology center in Leonberg, Germany, Brückner conducts tests and fabric trials together with their customers in order to find the best solution and machine configuration for each application. Lowest energy consumption, easy maintenance and high production output are the main targets of the research and development work at Brückner. 
 
“We are very proud to be represented by Fi-Tech, an absolutely professional team of specialists. Both companies, Brückner and Fi-Tech, are focused on the customer’s request and provide intelligent solutions for their optimum production results. We are looking forward to a long-lasting and successful partnership,” says Gerd Kolmer, Sales Director of Brückner Textile Technologies.
 
“We are honored that Brückner has extended their cooperation with Fi-Tech to include their product range for the Textile Industry. We are looking forward to a successful partnership with Brückner in the North American Textile Industry,” adds Todd Bassett, Managing Director of Fi-Tech Inc.
 
For over 40 years, Fi-Tech has represented European-based companies in North America, providing technologically advanced equipment to manufacturers in the nonwoven and textile industries. Brückner had a great benefit from the Fi-Tech experience and could increase their sales figures in the United States thanks to the big efforts of the Fi-Tech team. Fi-Tech is also handling the complete Brückner spare parts service for the North American market through their dedicated team in Richmond.

Posted January 27, 2007

Source: Brückner
 

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