American Starlinger-Sahm Opens U.S. Headquarters

American Starlinger-Sahm Inc. recently celebrated the opening of its new U.S. headquarters facility in Fountain Inn, S.C., during a two-day open house event. More than 140 customers from 65 companies attended the event at the 23,000-square-foot facility. The open house featured tours of the showroom and presentations featuring the company’s latest developments.

November/December 2015

Sterling Sells UFS To HIG

Houston-based The Sterling Group has completed the sale of Universal Fiber Systems (UFS),  Bristol, Va., to funds managed by  HIG Private Equity, Atlanta.
“Sterling’s support was instrumental in achieving new levels of profitability at our company,” said Mark Ammen, CEO, UFS. “We look forward to partnering with HIG to continue to grow the business and serve our loyal customers.”

November/December 2015

Indorama Ventures To Expand Auriga Polymers

Thailand-based Indorama Ventures Plc will add 15,000 tons of extrusion-based fiber spinning capacity at its Auriga Polymers Inc. site in Spartanburg. The expansion will allow Auriga to extend its portfolio to polylactic acid fibers, specialty polyesters and post-consumer recycled polymers.
“This added capacity increases Auriga’s position to support our customers who are seeing growing demand for specialty materials in all sectors of the nonwovens marketplace,” said Tom Brekovsky, vice president, Polymers and Fibers, Auriga.”

November/December 2015

Sigvaris Hosts Groundbreaking

Sigvaris, Peachtree City, Ga., recently held a groundbreaking ceremony to kick off its state-of-the-art expansion project, which is expected to be complete in the fall of 2016. The expansion — to happen concurrently with a renovation project at its existing 37,000-square-foot facility — will add 40,000-square-feet of office, manufacturing and warehouse space.
“Sigvaris is proud that this new expansion will not only help support the local community, but it will also allow the Sigvaris brand to continue making strides as a global leader in innovation for the compression market in North America,” said Scot Dubé, president and CEO, Sigvaris North America.

November/December 2015

Adapting To Challenges

Cotton commodity outlook examines cotton prices and innovations

TW Special Report

As is the case in all financial markets, cotton prices are in a continual state of evolution. In certain time periods, this evolution involves a shift from one price level to another. In other time periods, changes that emerged previously are substantiated or maintained.
Following the move to lower prices that began in the spring of 2014, cotton prices have likely entered into an era of continuation, when prices can be expected to remain low and relatively stable. There are other examples of multi-year periods with low and stable prices. In the mid-2000s, cotton prices traded within ranges of only a few cents per pound (cents/lb).
The early to mid-2000s were characterized by a series of record-setting volumes of stocks. The availability of cotton supply kept prices from moving much, with values for the A Index between 2004-05 and 2006-07 fluctuating generally between 50 and 60 cents/lb. The current market also is saturated with cotton, with global stocks at a level nearly twice the volume from the mid-2000s.
Nonetheless, prices remain slightly higher than they were a decade ago. With so much cotton globally, one of the reasons why lower prices have not been seen is because much of the world’s supply remains in the hands of the Chinese government. The role of the Chinese reserve system was reversed by reforms announced in the spring of 2014. With these reforms, the reserve system no longer is a source of demand because it no longer makes any purchases. Instead, it has evolved into a source of supply, with intermittent sales. The increased availability of Chinese reserves has been one reason why prices declined over the past year and a half.
A connected reason for the weakness in prices has been Chinese reforms relative to import quotas. After acting as an open door during the period of reserve purchases between 2011-12 and 2013-14, the quota system is actively restricting shipments to China. Because of World Trade Organization (WTO) obligations, China is required to allow a minimum level of cotton into the country each year. Statements from Chinese officials indicate that only the WTO-related minimum would be allowed during the 2015 calendar year, leading forecasts for Chinese imports in 2015-16 to drop to levels that are less than one-third of the average between 2011-12 and 2013-14.

Cotton1
Graduate students at Cornell are researching cotton fabrics treated with insecticidal nanoparticles to help ward off malarial mosquitoes. Photo courtesy of Mark Vorreuter.

China represented more than 40 percent of global imports in recent years, so the pullback in Chinese import demand that began in 2014-15 had important implications for exporters. The increase in stocks in many exporting countries that accompanied the reduction in Chinese imports last crop year was a principal factor behind the decreases in the A Index.
Following the decrease in prices, there were decreases in acreage in several countries for the 2015-16 harvest. However, in aggregate, the collection of countries outside China continues to produce more cotton than it uses. That surplus is nearly equal to the volume of cotton that China is expected to import. This suggests available stocks outside of China should remain at comfortable levels and that prices should continue to be low and stable.

Ongoing Innovation

In his economic history, “Cotton: Empire of Gold,” Harvard professor Sven Beckart refers to cotton as “one of mankind’s greatest achievements.” Beckart’s accolade is an acknowledgement of cotton’s role in shaping the global marketplace into what is known today, but his words easily could be applied to the ability of cotton to adapt and change. Whether to growing environments or market needs, cotton has a history of resilience and innovation.
As a plant, cotton is highly adaptable. Its innate drought- and heat-tolerance enable cotton to thrive in growing environments that might not support other crops. As such, cotton uses only 3-percent of the world’s agricultural water, yet provides two-thirds of the world’s textile fiber. And because cotton can be cultivated on every continent except Antarctica, each crop year can offer an abundance of the natural fiber for textiles.
Recent breakthroughs in the mapping of the cotton genome are poised to further enhance cotton’s efficiency and desirable characteristics. Whether through conventional or biotech breeding, the genomic mapping of cotton will help speed to market cotton varieties that use natural resources and inputs more efficiently, produce higher yields or yield higher fiber quality. Such new cotton varieties, combined with precision agriculture techniques and modern farming practices — like conservation tillage — will further optimize cotton production for a resource-challenged planet.
As a textile fiber, cotton has a long history. This is due, in part, to its comfort, and partly due to innovation. Cotton is suitable for virtually every apparel type, from fine shirting to durable denim dungarees, and its range continues to expand. Time and again, the cotton industry has responded to consumer desires for cottony comfort combined with performance. For example, consumer interest in the no-iron benefits that were only offered by some man-made fibers decades ago, resulted in durable-press cotton textile solutions for apparel and home textiles.

Cotton2
A Cornell graduate student experiments with nanoparticles on cotton.

In recent years, cotton’s market share has suffered as a result of the run up in cotton prices back in 2010, and because of an increasing number of competitive, and often cheaper, fiber options. But again, innovation is making gains for cotton. The athletic apparel category, for example, has been dominated by man-made fibers that offer moisture management. However, textile chemistries such as the TransDRY™ and WICKING WINDOWS™ technologies from Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated have merged moisture management with the breathability and comfort of cotton. In the past year, cotton’s share for 100-percent cotton items in the men’s athletic category has increased by five percentage points, to 19.4 percent, according to the Cotton Incorporated Retail Monitor Audit.

The Next Big, Small Thing

The next big thing for cotton may be something quite small — on the nanoscale, in fact. At the Textiles Nanotechnology Laboratory at Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y., Professor Juan Hinestroza and his students are exploring fascinating new applications for cotton at the nano level. Their work may elevate cotton as a go-to fiber for the emerging category of wearable technology. Already, Hinestroza and his students have transformed cotton fibers into electronic components such as transistors and thermistors, essentially making the fiber of the garment an electrical component, rather than adding such a component into the fabric.
The Cornell team also is performing exciting work synthesizing nanoparticles and attaching them to the naturally irregular topography of cotton. Depending on the particles attached, garments can be created that offer protection against such things as cold- and flu-causing bacteria. The team also is doing intriguing work with metal organic framework molecules (MOFs). Two of Hinestroza’s students have developed a hooded bodysuit that leverages MOFs to help ward off malarial mosquitoes — a threat that claims more than 600,000 lives in Africa each year. Other students have utilized MOFs to create a cotton mask and hood that can trap toxic gases, which will be of great use to first responders and industries where exposure to toxic gases might arise.

Beyond Textiles

Cotton is traditionally known as a textile fiber, an ingredient in apparel and home textiles, but there are non-textile uses for cotton fiber and cotton plant by-products. Some uses take advantage of cotton’s hollow fiber structure and capacity to absorb. Over the past year, several well-known retail brands have introduced cotton fiber in nonwoven products such as disposable diapers, and adult incontinence and feminine hygiene products. Notable among the latter is the Lola brand of tampons, which is a subscription-based product provider.
Other uses of cotton byproducts may come as a surprise. Take Boulder, Colo.-based Zeal Optics, for instance. This company transforms cotton lint — the short, fuzz-like fibers attached to cottonseeds — into cellulose to produce its sunglass frames. Cotton is almost pure cellulose, which means it can be made into a moldable resin for a range of applications, such as sunglass frames and tool handles.
It is well-known that cottonseeds can be pressed for their oil. In fact, the high smoke point and neutral flavor of cottonseed oil add to its popularity in the commercial food industry. It is somewhat less well-known that cottonseed also is a popular cattle feed supplement. Dairy farmers in particular value cottonseed because it contributes to higher yields of richer milk. The latest application for cottonseed is as a substitute for the fish-based meals used in aquaculture. Farm-raised fisheries have depended on traditional fish meal for years, but now many are experimenting with cottonseed meal, which has a high protein content.
It is interesting to note that these diverse uses for cotton fiber and other parts of the cotton plant are not an either/or proposition. Every cotton harvest provides fiber for textile and nonwoven uses — cottonseed for oil or feed supplements, and linters for cellulose. The 6,000-year-history of cultivated cotton has seen its share of challenges, but these challenges have been met through perseverance and innovation. When examined in this way, the outlook for cotton is limited only by the imagination.

November/December 2015

30 Years Of Innovative Solutions

Celebrating 30 years of operation in 2015, The Quantum Group’s founder Jeff Bruner describes his exceptionally innovative textile company in a recent interview with Textile World.

James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief

O

ne gets the impression that 30 years of research and development (R&D) into problem solving and unique manufacturing capabilities provide a broad palate from which to operate and create an array of textile products and solutions. Founder Jeff Bruner likes to say that The Quantum Group takes on projects that other textile companies cannot, or will not, pursue. Quantum and its sister companies have a wide range of knitting and weaving capabilities, as well as fiber extrusion of mono- and multifilament yarns.

Getting A Start In Textiles

Jeff Bruner established The Quantum Group in 1985 having just completed a five-year career at Burlington Industries. He had a degree in fabric design from the then Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science (PCT&S), now known as Philadelphia University. “I specialized in knitting and really wanted to be the best,” Bruner said. Later, he attended Leicester Polytechnic, United Kingdom, to continue his knitting studies.
After working for Hoechst Fiber in New York City as a development engineer for knit fabrics, Bruner returned to PCT&S to teach knitting and perform research. He spent his summers visiting knitting machine manufacturers throughout Europe to continue his practical knitting education. After a stint as a consultant for Owens Corning, Bruner left teaching for a position at Fiber Glass Industries in Amsterdam, New York. He was then asked to join Burlington Industries in Greensboro, N.C., as a product development manager to introduce Burlington to the weft-inserted warp-knitting business. Ultimately, the politics and bureaucracy of Burlington in the early 1980s didn’t agree with Bruner. “I just really wasn’t equipped to deal with it,” he said. “That’s when I went out on my own and formed The Quantum Group.”

30YearsAeron
The Herman Miller Aeron® chair — conceived and manufactured by Herman Miller, designed by Don Chadwick and Bill Stumpf, and featuring The Quantum Group’s suspension fabric — was a breakthrough in ergonomic design. Photograph courtesy of Herman Miller.

The Quantum Group

In the early days of the company, Bruner presented many seminars on multiple textile subjects and continued contract R&D work. One early customer was General Motors (GM). Quantum developed an elastomeric seat suspension material for GM. It was used as a B-surface material which means it’s not seen, replacing the metal springs underneath conventional fabric and foam used in the car seat.
However, Bruner faced stiff competition. “I was up against Milliken, Collins & Aikman, and some of theother big guys at the time like Quaker, and I was just working out of my living room figuring out how to do things.”
Quantum located a facility in High Point, N.C., that worked with Bruner to make samples. With these samples in hand, Bruner convinced GM to finance a dedicated assembly line to make seat suspensions to be used in Pontiacs, Buicks and Oldsmobiles. Bruner said this business lead came from a past student from his teaching days, a story that in Quantum’s early years would repeat itself.
“Another student of mine went to work for Meadox Medical,” Bruner said. “Meadox made vascular grafts, bifurcations, artificial veins and arteries, tendons and ligaments — all kinds of devices that go into the body.” As the popularity of Meadox’s products grew, so did concern about product liability for the polyester suppliers. The resulting restricted polyester supply offered an interesting opportunity for Quantum. “I worked with Meadox to find alternate suppliers of polyester yarns from suppliers all around the world and characterized the sources,” Bruner said. “Eventually Meadox installed their own yarn extrusion equipment and developed their own process.”
Like with so many Quantum clients, the relationship with Meadox was long-lasting even when the company’s owner sold Meadox to Boston Scientific. “As a result of working with them and building a long-term relationship, we kept the business with Boston Scientific even through a series of ownership changes. Going back almost 30 years, we’ve been dealing with the same people there and working in various capacities. We were producing some monofilament and yarns for use in medical applications.”

Early Success

In the early 1990s, pretty much everything between the seat suspensions and medical yarns was the result of working with past students at General Motors and Meadox Medical, until Quantum was approached by Herman Miller. The Zeeland, Mich.-based furniture manufacturer had hired Bill Stumpf and Don Chadwick to design an office chair it had conceived of that did not feature the typical upholstered foam.
“Herman Miller was looking for someone who could develop or engineer a fabric that would work in what would later be known as the Aeron® chair,” Bruner said. “The two designers of the Aeron chair were working with Herman Miller and are long-time designers for them. Chadwick was searching around and Herman Miller went to their normal suppliers to see who had the interest, capability and wherewithal to develop and manufacture this yet to be conceived, engineered and designed fabric for the Aeron chair.”
The chair’s design became iconic and was at the forefront of ergonomic design. With conventional fabric suppliers showing little interest in the project the designers and Herman Miller needed to find an alternate source.
“Chadwick called DuPont and inquired with them because he heard about this seat suspension using a DuPont elastomer, and Quantum was using quite a bit of it for the GM seat suspension,” Bruner said. “At that time, Quantum was doing consulting work for a company in High Point, and we started to develop the Aeron fabric with them. I went to the owners of the company and said, ‘Look, I need an agreement. If I’m going to develop this, I need to know how Quantum is going to get compensated.’” They basically said, “Well, we aren’t sure, we don’t know if there is a future in the project, or how big it’s going to be, so we are going to have to play it by ear.”

“At that point, I said I wasn’t interested, and I resigned,” Bruner explained.

Continued Growth

Quantum’s business was growing. The company continued work with clients such as Meadox Medical, and also had a contract to build a yarn extrusion plant in Gibsonville, N.C., for a company called New Generation Yarns.
“After I resigned, Herman Miller approached me again to return to the project,” Bruner said. “With about nine months left of development work, Herman Miller contracted with Quantum to finish the job and loaned me the funds to hire an employee and rent a building. That happened in early 1994, and then the chair was introduced a trade show in Germany called Orgatec — a big office furniture trade show in Cologne,” said Bruner.

Aeron® And Pellicle®

The fabric Quantum created for Herman Miller was branded Pellicle®, a word defined by Merriam Webster as “thin film.” According to Herman Miller, Chadwick and Stumpf designed the first office chairs that lacked traditional foam or padding, replacing it with a body conforming suspension fabric with an open, breathable construction. The design distributes weight evenly, while eliminating pressure points and heat build-up, according to the company.
When Stumpf passed away in 2006, the New York Times reported: “The Aeron became an instant classic, chosen for the permanent design collection of the Museum of Modern Art on Sept. 21, 1994, a month before its introduction at a trade fair called Orgatec in Cologne, Germany.”
“People forget how controversial it was, how shocking it was, when it first came out,” said Michael Bierut, a partner at international design company Pentagram, and a juror for the National Design Awards. The traditional executive chair was lavishly upholstered, often with leather. “The idea was that upholstery equaled comfort,” Bierut said. “Mr. Stumpf and Mr. Chadwick discovered that comfort could be rendered in a delicate and precise and beautifully engineered way that had nothing to do with creating a throne, but with creating a perfectly calibrated machine for seating.”

Leno Weaving

The Aeron chair and its Pellicle fabric continue to be a success, and its development was a milestone in The Quantum Group’s 30-year history. Interestingly, given Bruner’s focus on knitting as a young man, he used leno-weaving technology to solve Stumpf and Chadwick’s design challenge. “The biggest thing we do today is leno weaving,” said Bruner. “It is an extremely old technology that most companies don’t use anymore due to its cost, complexity and slow speeds, but it’s been key to a very good business.”


Industries & Markets Served

Recreational & Entertainment

  • Climbing harnesses
  • Bike seats
  • Theme-park ride seating

Office Furniture Herman Miller products including:

  • Aeron® chair featuring Pellicle fabric
  • Eames® chair featuring Cygnus mesh fabric
  • Mirra Chair featuring AireWeave seat material

Industrial & Consumer Products

  • Tubular fabric belting
  • Drive belts
  • High-strength materials
  • Tubular fabrics such as firehose

Automotive & Aerospace

  • Automotive and airline B-layer seating
  • Boat mesh chair
  • Ferry and subway seating
  • Mower seating
  • Tire cord fabric

Construction & Geotextiles

  • Building and construction
  • Filtration fabric
  • Road reinforcement materials

Heathcare & Other Applications

  • Healthcare chairs
  • Window screens
  • Privacy screens
  • Outdoor furniture

 

November/December 2015

 

A Transformation Story

By Jim Phillips, Yarn Market Editor

For the past several issues, Yarn Market has reported that business has been strong, most companies have a long pipeline of orders — although most orders are relatively small — and that ring-spun yarns are in very high demand and difficult to come by. As of late October, this is still the case.
It also has been reported that the U.S. yarn industry is in the midst of its longest sustained run of profitable business for many years. There have been numerous columns focused on how this has come about, and no need to rehash it here. However, Yarn Market was fortunate enough to recently interview a retired employee who witnessed first-hand the transformation of the industry over almost
50 years. This is his story.

Some 40 years ago, a young man working for one of the world’s premier textile companies was cautioned by a professional recruiter to exit the industry as quickly as possible.
“He told me there was no future for textiles in the United States,” said the gentleman. “He said the industry has moved on and would never return and that the billion-dollar company I worked for would be gone in 10 years. He wanted me, instead, to join a large tobacco company. I declined.”
He continued: “It’s funny how it worked out.
I retired after a lifetime in the textile industry, working continuously to refine processes, increase efficiency and enhance quality. I worked in spinning rooms, in textured yarns, in package dyeing and in just about every other aspect of the business. Meanwhile, the company he wanted me to work for got into trouble for allegedly chemically enhancing the addictiveness of cigarettes. That tobacco company still exists, I think, but not as a stand-alone company.”
So, what happened? How did this industry  that was supposedly on death’s door nearly a
half century ago last long enough for a very young man to be able to work, prosper and retire?

Reinvention

From his point of view, this now-retired spinner says the textile industry was able to accomplish what so many traditional U.S manufacturers could not: “We reinvented ourselves. For example, in the early 80s, we knew South Korea and Taiwan could make yarn and fabric at a fraction of what it cost us. But could they make it as well and deliver it as quickly?”
However, it took some time and some business model innovation for the U.S. industry to regain its competitiveness. “We still had the notion for a long time that, if we make it, somebody will buy it. It was that philosophy, more than foreign competition, that almost killed the industry. We forgot a primary business fundamental — to be successful, supply must at least somewhat approximate demand. We just kept spinning more and more yarns and weaving yards and yards of fabric — and had no buyers for hardly any of it. We
figured what worked once, would always work. If we put it on the market,
somebody would buy it. We were wrong.”
And as a result, many, many companies went out of business or were split
up and sold.
But for many of those remaining, the light came on. “Finally, somebody figured out that if you find out what customers really want, make it to their specifications, deliver it to them faster than anybody else and then — and this is very important — follow up with superior customer service, well, then, you can compete with anybody. And I am proud to say that yarn spinners in the United States have done exactly that. They reinvented themselves.”
However, he notes that reinvention is not just a part of the industry’s past, it must be a part of its future as well. “The market today is forever changing — sometimes on a daily basis. What worked yesterday may not work tomorrow. The key is not to just keep up with the customer, but stay ahead. Learn what he wants before he even knows he wants it.”

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November/December 2015

Quality Improvement Through Process Reduction In Rotor Spinning

Process reductions and raw material savings are common methods used to respond to increasing cost pressures, but these approaches can result in yarn quality losses.

By Dr. Thomas Weide

By integrating the draw frame into the card, spinning machine makers provide a solution that makes process reductions particularly promising in rotor spinning because, in contrast to ring spinning or air-jet spinning, this spinning method is virtually resistant to differences in the degree of drawing and to the amount and orientation of the fiber hooks.

To examine this matter further, the influence of short fiber content on rotor-yarn quality produced using different preparation lines was researched at the Germany-based Hochschule Niederrhein – University of Applied Science in cooperation with Germany-based Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG and Germany-based Schlafhorst, a Saurer AG company. The two companies made the study possible by providing the test material and their machinery. During the study, direct spinning with an integrated draw frame (IDF) was compared to conventional preparation with two drawing passages or one drawing passage (See Figure 1).

Test Arrangement
As test material, 30 percent, 50 percent and 70 percent noils were added to Central Asian cotton, providing a total of five different test materials from 100 percent cotton to 100 percent noils (See Table 1).

The materials were prepared on the Trützschler Card TC11 with Integrated Draw Frame IDF2 (see Figure 2) and on the TC11 card and subsequent Draw Frames TD7 — without levelling — and TD 8 — with levelling. Table 2 illustrates the most important production parameters in spinning preparation. To eliminate the influence of the card, the card produced a sliver count of 7.7 ktex (Ne 0.077) with identical settings for both preparation lines. The influence of the sliver count on rotor spinning was eliminated by refining this card sliver count via the IDF or one or two drawing passages to the same starting sliver count of 5.5 ktex (Ne 0.11).

The different slivers were then spun into various yarn counts on a Schlafhorst Autocoro rotor-spinning machine.

Figure 2: Trützschler’s Integrated Draw Frame IDF2

Influence On Sliver Quality
The only time problems appeared during processing with the different test materials was using conventional spinning preparation with two drawing passages for the materials with a noil content of 70 percent or above. The increased degree of fiber drawing on the second draw frame results in a low fiber retention force in the main draft. On materials with extremely high short fiber content this leads to such a great loss of floating fiber control that a trouble-free drafting process no longer is possible. This causes so-called package drafts during which packages of floating fibers are simultaneously accelerated in the draft zone. This creates considerable unevenness in the sliver, which makes further processing to an acceptable yarn quality nearly impossible.

With a noil content of 70 percent, it is alternatively possible to create another sliver with only one drawing passage since the higher fiber retention forces still ensure an acceptable control of the floating fibers due to the lower degree of drawing. However, with 100 percent noils, even processing with only one draw frame is not possible without the occurrence of package drafts.

Because of the significantly lower drafts, the IDF is very resistant to these problems; thus all five test materials can be processed without any problems on the card with IDF.

The resistance to floating fibers when using the direct spinning process via IDF also is evident in the sliver evenness results (See Figure 3). An advantage of the reduced preparation line was apparent here during all trials. Even though the advantage is still small for cotton without noil content, it increases with growing noil content because of the surge in floating fibers. As explained above, processing the material with 70 percent noils without IDF is only possible with one drawing passage, and processing of 100 percent noils only with IDF.

Influence Of Spinning Stability And Yarn Quality
Yarns with a count of Ne 12, Ne 20 and Ne 30 were spun. The most important spinning equipment and settings programmed in to the rotor spinning machines are shown in Table 3. They parameters were selected in such a way that all the test materials can be spun if possible.

From the feed consisting of 100 percent noils, only a yarn with a count of Ne 12 can be spun. It can be said that when using direct spinning, the number of yarn breaks is almost always lower during all trials than when using the draw frame process. This applies in particular to the trials with an increased number of yarn breaks. Thus, for instance, at 5,000 yarn breaks per 1,000 rotor hours, the spinning stability of the feed containing 70 percent noils is so high when spinning a yarn with Ne 30 count from a conventionally produced feed that this material is not suited for practical application because of the anticipated efficiency losses at the spinning machine. In contrast, when using a feed with 70 percent noil content produced with the IDF, the yarn breaks are considerably lower at approximately 1,500 yarn breaks per 1,000 rotor hours. This yarn break figure can be economically produced with a rotor-spinning machine with individual spinning unit technology such as the Autocoro 8. According to information from Schlafhorst, the Autocoro 8 achieves a very high long-term efficiency of 95 to 97 percent at approximately 1,700 yarn breaks and clearer stops per 1,000 rotor hours in practical application.

As suggested by the results of sliver evenness, the yarns produced in direct spinning have improved yarn evenness when using feeds with noil content (See Figure 4). The same applies as with sliver evenness — the higher the short fiber content the more advantageous the reduced preparation process with integrated draw frame in contrast to the conventional process with two drawing passages, or one drawing passage for 70 percent noil content. The only time the process with the drawing passages is slightly advantageous for yarn evenness because of improved blending is when processing 100-percent raw cotton.

A similar situation exists with respect to yarn imperfections. In Figure 5, all imperfections of the category thin places -50 percent, thick places +50 percent and neps +280 percent were accumulated to a “Total IPI” value. The same applies to yarn evenness. The advantage of conventional preparation of 100-percent raw cotton compared to direct spinning when using this yarn parameter reverses at a noil content of 30 percent and above.

The influence of short fiber content and spinning preparation on yarn strength also is comparable. Because of the improved fiber orientation of the sliver prepared with conventional spinning preparation and the resulting reduced fiber damage during the opening process in the rotor spinning machine, the strength of the yarn made of 100-percent raw cotton is up to 0.4 cN/tex higher than the strength of the yarn made using direct spinning. However, this slight advantage disappears with growing noil content or even reverses when reaching a noil content of 70 percent because the improved yarn evenness has a positive influence on yarn strength, thus compensating the slight loss in strength. It can also be said that the two different preparation processes have no impact on yarn elongation.

Summary
In general it can be said that direct spinning is suitable for all yarn counts. In comparison to conventional preparation via draw frame passages, the sliver and subsequent yarn qualities are even advantageous as soon as noils of 30 percent and above are added to the raw cotton. This advantage increases with growing short fiber content. The spinning stability on the rotor-spinning machine also is advantageous when applying the direct spinning process. Spinning 100 percent noils is actually only possible using direct spinning.

A process reduction by replacing the existing drawing passages with a draw frame integrated into the card definitely has the potential to minimize the costs in the spinning mill. This study was able to show that this type of process reduction has a great potential to improve quality as well, particularly when using cotton feeds with higher short fiber content.


Editor’s Note: Dr. Thomas Weide is a professor at Germany-based Hochschule Niederrhein, University of Applied Science


November/December 2015

Unifi Expands REPREVE®’s Global Availability

Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc. through its subsidiary China-based Unifi Textiles (Suzhou) Co. Ltd. has extended REPREVE® manufacturing and distribution agreements to two companies. Turkey-based Korteks is now a licensed manufacturer of Repreve recycled fiber, and will produce and sell the fiber to the local market. Taiwan-based Sun Chemical now is the only distributor of Repreve in Taiwan.

“Globally expanding our Repreve manufacturing capabilities highlights our commitment to the Repreve brand and allows us to better serve our customers worldwide,” said Roger Berrier, president and CEO, Unifi.

November/December 2015

Avintiv Selects Oerlikon Neumag Airlaid System

Charlotte-based Avintiv recently completed an installation at its Benson, N.C., facility of an airlaid web forming system from Germany-based Oerlikon Neumag. The line will manufacture airlaid nonwovens for hygiene products.

The installation took just three months and was followed by a three-week commissioning phase. “It was thanks to the close and intensive collaboration between our customer and us,” said Hartmut Claussen, head of project engineering, Oerlikon Neumag. “Both parties acted as one team, and are really happy to have reached our common targets.”

November/December 2015

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