3-D Textiles: The Difference Is Depth

For 3-D wovens, knits and even nonwovens, the list of markets and applications only continues to grow and expand.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

Depth is indeed the difference. Length, width and depth — or thickness if you prefer — account for the three dimensions inherent to a human’s visual perspective. Fortunately, this also happens to be the distinguishing traits of 3-D textiles, a category growing in significance throughout the textile industry and beyond. The specific recognition of depth is what separates 3-D textiles from traditional 2-D knit, woven and nonwoven fabrics. Granted, it can be argued that everything, yes, everything has a length, width and depth. But since traditional woven, knit and nonwoven fabrics have a very nominal depth when compared to their manufactured length and width, the third dimension is often deemed as irrelevant or inconsequential, therefore, 2-D. Increasingly over the past 20 years or so, the addition of depth in textiles has become more relevant to engineers and designers. The result has been significant growth in the use of 3-D textiles, particularly by the composites industry and more recently in other technical applications, as well as the fully-fashioned or shaped garments marketplace.

To clarify, along with their length and width, 3-D fabrics have a very distinct, clearly defined depth and/or noticeable shape, each of which are visually apparent and measurable. However, in true 3-D fabrics, it is understood that the depth must be fully integrated throughout the textile structure via its design, engineering and manufacturing processes, whether it be a woven, knit or nonwoven structure. Given this definition, 3-D fabric depth does not result from add-ons or multiple layers being sewn, glued or otherwise assembled together after the base fabric has been made.

Truth be told, 3-D textiles or 3-D fabrics have conceptually been around for a very long time, however for the most part, just not recognized as such. As is usually the case given the breadth of textile manufacturing processes, there are a multitude of ways to produce 3-D textiles. Each process offers an inherent list of attributes similar in scope to its traditional 2-D brethren. In general, 3-D knits provide stretch and conformability, 3-D wovens deliver stability and uniformity and 3-D nonwovens offer bulk and tailored density. When jacquard systems are incorporated into either woven or knit fabric manufacturing equipment, individual yarn control and placement are greatly enhanced. As a result, intricately complex woven or knit shapes, patterns and geometries can be realized.

Adding a pronounced third dimension to the textile structure with individual yarn path control that is fully integrated throughout, further diminishes the limits of textile technology and directly leads to enhanced and improved product performance. These enhanced products can range from rather intricate fully-fashioned one-piece garments, to complex near net shape composite preforms, and pretty much anything else the engineer or designer can imagine. Having more yarn systems in play through the thickness or “Z” direction allows the designer to create a complex engineered structure, target and mitigate weak or high-stress areas, enhance flexibility and/or provide foundational support, among other design features. The possibilities may not be endless, but quite a few application engineers and designers representing a wide array of industries and market segments are taking notice of and exploring the potential opportunities that 3-D textiles offer.

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The LEAP jet engine family developed and manufactured by CFM Corp. — a joint venture between France-based Safran and Fairfield, Conn.-based General Electric — features 3-D woven carbon fiber composite fan blades. Photograph courtesy of Wikipedia.

3-D Possibilities

In many cases, weight savings are the principal driver for the rising interest in 3-D textiles. The aerospace, military and automotive industries, where any reduction in weight translates directly to improved fuel savings and increased performance, are leading the charge, but these industries are not alone. Various other industrial and technical

applications are employing 3-D textiles as well. Numerous rigid and structural composite products based on 3-D weaving technology have demonstrated significant weight savings over incumbent products mostly made from metals, with equivalent or better performance results. One product where 3-D structures are used to reduce weight is the new LEAP jet engine family developed and manufactured by CFM Corp. — a joint venture between France-based Safran and Fairfield, Conn.-based General Electric. CFM incorporates

3-D woven carbon fiber composite fan blades and other components into the engine assembly delivering fuel efficiency increases approaching 15 percent.

3-D Wovens

Aided by the growing acceptance of 3-D textiles and composites in high-visibility and high-performance applications, a trickle down effect has been created driving the use of 3-D textiles into a broad array of application areas as well. Increased recognition along with a growing knowledge and usage database for 3-D textiles also is fostering overall confidence in the technology’s usage, leading to greater acceptance and growth. Densely woven 3-D fabrics are ideally suited for composite applications where they continue to gain in popularity and the design and engineering possibilities can be fully realized. The ability to control fiber placement using 3-D weaving techniques allows for the creation of different cross-sectional shapes including “T”, “L”, “F”, “+” and fully integrated near net-shape structural preforms also can be realized. Near net shape preform structures, different cross-sectional shapes and woven billets exceeding 5 inches — 125 millimeters — in thickness can be produced.

If weight savings is the primary driving factor for development of 3-D textiles, enhanced performance is certainly a close second, if not the leading driver in numerous other applications. Engineers and designers now view 3-D textiles as a tool to address complex challenges and look to benefit from the design and performance attributes the technology provides. Aiding in this growth and acceptance are greatly improved design and engineering tools that generate a better understanding of how 3-D textiles can be applied to enhance performance. This, coupled with 3-D textiles’ innate ability to allow for individual or directed fiber placement and tailored fiber paths that mitigate stress/strain concerns, creates more opportunities to address potentially complex performance challenges. Add it all up and the result is a fully integrated 3-D fabric structure that can improve damage tolerance, resistance to deformation and delamination, while saving weight. Adding in a mentality shift that incorporates the sum of all parts rather than just individual components can lead to results that not only improve performance, but garner cost efficiencies and reduce implementation time as well.

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A diagram of a 3-D variable section of a warp-knit tubular fabric

3-D Knits

Not to be outdone, 3-D knitting, created by either warp or weft knit methodologies, offers incredible design and engineering versatility. While some 3-D knit applications may involve rigid composites, the majority of uses are in soft goods. In general, warp knitting typically creates a more physically stable fabric than weft knitting, but the interlocked loops in both techniques create a natural softness, bulk and conformability in the fabric. As such, while 3-D wovens tend to be rather dense and non-pliable, 3-D knits exhibit inherent pliability, flexibility and elasticity. Multi-directional stretch and recovery, depth, density and weight can all be designed into or engineered out of the 3-D knit fabric. Not to mention that for some designs, one pattern construction may be on the front face fabric while a completely different configuration may be on the back. Curves, contours, pockets, and other configurations can be incorporated into fully-fashioned whole garments. Texture, density and thickness can be added or removed, and near net-shape forms can be created. Each may integrate several component cross sections as well as multiple tailored yarn systems fully engineered throughout the shaped preform and resultant product to maximize high-performance efficiencies. Options galore can be realized depending on the application and the creativity of the designer and engineer.

The structural integrity found in knit spacer fabrics, which can exceed 2 inches — 50 millimeters — in thickness and some 3-D nonwoven configurations aid in the filling and stabilization of void areas for specific applications while offering the creation of void areas to improve air flow in seating and mattress pads or fluid flow in others. More comfortable and breathable form fitted and seamless compression garments for medical applications can be realized through 3-D knitting. Form fitting also can be rather desirable in many fashion applications. The bulk provided by several 3-D textiles formats can also improve insulation and acoustic properties for a number of different applications.

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Bonar — a Low & Bonar Plc company — manufactures 3-D polymeric mats such as Enkamat® for civil engineering, interior, transportation, construction, agro and industrial applications. Image courtesy of Low & Bonar Plc.

Nonwovens In 3-D

3-D nonwovens can be manufactured via several different methods depending on needs of the application. Denser products such as traditional felts, insulation pads and composite brake rotors are produced using needle-punching techniques. Various insulations and other nonwoven products such as Enkamat® manufactured by Bonar — a Low & Bonar Plc company — are used for creating bulk or air flow and can be produced via melt spun, air-laid or additive manufacturing technologies.

Additive manufacturing, more commonly known as 3-D printing, may not technically be a textile manufacturing process, but that can be argued elsewhere. From a purely 3-D technology perspective, its inherent ability to precisely place polymer in any location or to any depth to create fully integrated 3-D structures does create a host of interesting possibilities. It does have some detractors, but 3-D printing is still in its infancy. Given a broadening pallet of polymeric materials, some with fiber inclusions, to choose from; and continuing efforts to improve equipment and processing capabilities, 3-D printing should not be taken for granted.

For 3-D textiles, the list of markets and applications only continues to grow and expand. As the design and engineering benefits continue to broaden, new and innovative applications will only continue to promote its greater acceptance. The difference is indeed depth… And then some!

July/August 2016

Product Innovation Meets Student Education

NCSU’s Textile Engineering/Textile Technology Senior Design Program partners students with industry to prepare students for life in the workforce.

By Dr. Jesse S. Jur and Dr. Russell Gorga

Dr. Jesse S. Jur and Dr. Russell Gorga, faculty at the College of Textiles at North Carolina State University (NCSU), are codirectors of the Textile Engineering (TE)/Textile Technology (TT) Senior Design program. The year-long capstone course presents student teams with relevant industrial and/or research problems that require them to leverage prior classwork to create a solution. Company sponsors engage with students to develop new products, understand potential markets, and solve technical challenges. These open-ended problems are defined by the sponsors, and challenge the students to think outside of standard educational classroom learning environment to prepare them for the workplace.

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Overarching course paradigms for the fall and spring semesters in the TE/TT Senior Design program

Course outcomes have included patents, new company investments, empowerment of local supply chains, and even the development of an electronic collar for African elephants. Most importantly, the course is at the forefront in design education and principles for the textile industry and beyond, providing students a unique hands-on approach to answering the question “How do I do that?”

Since its inception in 2013, Senior Design at the College of Textiles has graduated 171 students and completed 53 industry/federal agency sponsored projects. Sponsoring companies vary from small to very large and include traditional and non-traditional textile companies such as adidas, American Flocking Association, BSN Medical, Cotton Incorporated, Eastman Chemical, Eterno Bike, Firestone Fibers and Textiles, Gildan, Gryppers, Hanesbrands, Hunter Safety Systems, Johnson Controls, Mann+Hummel, Monterey Mills, National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), the National Science Foundation, Nike, The Nonwovens Institute, Patagonia, Porticos, SAAB Barracuda, Secant Medical, Sector 212, Trig Innovation, the U.S. Army Research Office, Under Armour, WillowWood, and VF Corp.

There Are No Wrong Answers

The Senior Design capstone course serves as the final stage in the students’ undergraduate education challenging them to apply their skills to unique problems. Student entering this course in the department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science (TECS) already have gained valuable expertise in engineering fundamentals, information systems, medical textiles, product development, supply chain management and consumer behavior. The course provides students the opportunity to work with industry to creatively synthesize solutions to relevant problems. The students work on teams to solve technical problems, study commercialization processes, utilize project management tools, think globally, understand/develop intellectual property and apply patent mapping principles. Students in TECS are expected to graduate with the skills necessary to conceive — design and create — specify, implement, test, produce and market complex engineering systems. Often, teaming with other departments’ senior design courses offers an experience that is similar to what they’ll experience professionally after college.

The ultimate goal of the TE/TT Senior Design program is to teach students how to solve an open-ended question. This may be quite obvious for someone in industry where products and solutions to process challenges are continuously being developed and solved. But for a student graduating college, solving a question in which an answer is not known is a big challenge as prior instruction has involved solving directed questions in which a single answer exists. The reality is that the world provides many solutions and pathways to get to that solution.

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Project teams at work in the TE/TT Senior Design lab at NCSU’s College of Textiles. All photographs courtesy of Amanda Padbury

Project Selection And Teaming

The course starts officially at the beginning of the fall semester, but in reality, the course planning starts much earlier. During the late spring and early summer, program directors meet with companies to define all of the projects and build a mutual understanding of the course expectations. Experience has shown that a project’s success has very little to do with the project topic or the name of the company, but is strongly correlated to the commitment the sponsor has to interacting with the student team. If the sponsor has a strong commitment to communicating including providing feedback, answering questions, and generally being responsive to the team, the project has the highest probability for success. Therefore, the program directors have developed screening tools to aid in sponsor selection and provided guidelines and guidance to the sponsors once selected to help ensure a successful sponsor/team interaction.

“We need to teach the students to think creatively while coming up with new solutions. They need to challenge conventional wisdom and address their assumed constraints. To do this well, they need to learn to ask a lot of questions, no matter how obvious the questions may seem.”

— Dr. Russell E. Gorga,
codirector NCSU’s TE/TT Senior Design Program

In addition, the directors use assessment tools to develop student teams based on diverse skill sets, leadership preferences and the students’ interest in projects. By mid-summer, a list of potential projects has been identified and the project summaries are delivered to the students, who choose five unranked projects and provide a suitable justification for their interest in the project. Setting expectations in this way prepares students to take their place on teams on the first day.

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A project sponsored by Gryppers Inc. explored new cost-effective options for materials and manufacturing for an innovative replacement for athletic tape or gloves.

Engineering Design

The engineering process is essential to providing a roadmap for creative problem solving for the team projects. With the project description in hand, criteria and constraints are defined and a state of technology report is made to gain a thorough understanding of the relevant prior art or materials. Based on this background, the directors guide the teams through an ideation process, where dozens of ideas may be generated and then narrowed down to match the criteria and constraints. The final result is two to four primary ideas. The ideation process is not only the most enjoyable part of the class for most students and project sponsors, but is also the most challenging. The ideation exercise allows for the development of a creative skill set that is often not explored in a technical educational curriculum. The next step, creating the first prototype, also can be challenging for some students. For these reasons, a diverse set of skills are needed when the teams initially are defined.

Through the second semester, the teams develop their skills in creative problem solving and their abilities to design experiments and fabricate and test prototypes. Often, new materials are employed in the project and new test methods are needed to appropriately benchmark the material or product.

Project Scope – Think Big

Sponsors often underestimate how talented, resourceful and creative the undergraduate TE and TT students are, especially when all of the resources are provided for their success. During initial meetings with a prospective sponsor, collaborators are encouraged to think big and the students will too. Likewise, in initial meetings with student teams, they are told to think big and their sponsors will follow.

As the program has grown, so have the expectations. This past year, 18 out of 21 teams developed their products at NCSU using the five labs run by the College of Textiles’ Zeis Textile Extension, directed by Dr. Jon Rust. Six of those teams started their process by spinning new yarn blends, and all of the teams developed novel textile structures on weaving or knitting machines. Some teams trialed their processes on their sponsors’ production lines or utilized new or existing vendors to develop a trial run. One team even had its product evaluated at the NCSU football team’s spring game. Upon entering the class, the students are one year from being degree-holding engineers and technologists. By the end of the class, they are graduates with real-world experience.

“The Engineering design process is an engaging way to put structure around how to solve complex problems.  With this skill, students are able to make themselves and their future employer more competitive.”  

— Dr. Jesse S. Jur, codirector NCSU’s TE/TT Senior Design Program

Entry Into The Real World

Feedback from the students sums up the program best. “The course was extremely fun and is a great learning course,” said one student. “I have learned more in this course due to hands-on experience than many other classes. This class makes you think and it makes you do.” Said another student: “Although this course is the most frustrating and time consuming, it is the one course that has prepared me most for the real world.”

This class is a lot of work for the teams, but the students, sponsors and faculty all buy in. It is rewarding for the students to see the growth in themselves and feel confident about going to get that first job. The soft skills they develop round out the edges of the technical skills they have acquired and are the key to success. This includes a wide interpretation of communication from texting, writing and drafting emails to interpersonal communication both in teams and in presentations. The students are continuously assessed and receive direction from faculty and peers.


NCSU 2015-16 Research Projects

Temperature Regulating Activewear Clothing (TRAC)

Develop a temperature-regulating garment with both warming and cooling features to adjust to external temperature variations between 50 and 95°F.

Team: Voulitsa Koloustroubis, Fernanda Diomede, Garrett Hill and Halie Price

Sponsor: Hanesbrands Inc.

Innovative Flame Retardant Space Apparel

Create novel flame retardant apparel to be used on NASA’s Orion spacecraft within an environment that has 30-percent oxygen.

Team: Tori Hausman, John Schwind, Haley Callahan and Nadeen Abdelhamid

Sponsor: NASA

3-D Fabric For Prosthetic Liner

Research and develop different options to create 3-D fabric materials and designs that improve the breathability and flexibility of prosthetic liners, in order to provide the best comfort for all amputees.

Team: Dessy Tio, Ross Mason and Erin Quinn

Sponsor: WillowWood Co.

Canine Biometric Undershirt

Develop a textile enclosed electronic device for canines that is capable of detecting and quantifying stress levels.

Team: Kelly O’Donnell, James Schaefer and Kate Mestelle

Sponsor: U.S. Army Research Office

Advanced Camouflage Surface Treatments

Explore ways to improve the multispectral performance of Saab Barracuda’s current camouflage systems by investigating more efficient conductive surface treatments and reducing the weight of the camouflage system, with additional goals of improving camouflage coloration and durability.

Team: Whitney Brown, Joshua Humphrey and Bobby Keefe

Sponsor: Saab Barracuda LLC

Energy Harvesting Shade Unit

Incorporate energy generation modules — such as solar and thermal — into flexible, lightweight and durable textiles used in military shade units.

Team: Brian Iezzi, Casey Kivett and Jamie Barbuto

Sponsor: Saab Barracuda LLC

Causes and Solutions to Torque in Apparel

Examine the entire manufacturing process of Gildan T-shirts and identify factors within this process that cause torque.

Team: Ciara Oden, Rachel Foote

Sponsor: Gildan Activewear Inc.

Next-Gen Grypper Technology

Explore new cost-effective options for materials and manufacturing based in the United States for a Gryppers athletic glove replacement technology that helps to improve athletic performance by providing tackiness, fit, and knuckle support.

Team: Shannon Tart, Jamie McLean and Desirae Scruggs

Sponsor: Gryppers Inc.

Porticool Cooling Vest v2.0

Explore integrative strategies for regulating the cooling in an innovative vapor-based cooling vest.

Team: Peiheng Feng, Jordan Lohn, Emily McGuinness and Emily Price

Sponsor: Porticos Inc.

Auxetic Structures In Garment Construction

Evaluate a design of experiments for outlining the structure-property relationships of auxetic yarns as well as identify a potential market and prototype an innovative product.

Team: Leena Godbole and Mitch Hicks

Sponsor: Hanesbrands

Novel Paint Transfer Materials

Introduce new technologies to current the paint roller design that will improve the pick-up of the paint from the paint pan to the roller and improve the dispersity of the paint from the roller to the wall.

Team: John Joyner, Spencer Boykin and Charles Suaris

Sponsor: Monterey Mills

Fabric Durability Optimization

Assess durability and comfort of existing materials in Patagonia’s technical and lifestyle product lines, as well as construct a new optimized textile product that can be integrated into Patagonia’s supply chain.

Team: Dominique Koontz, Patrick Balogh, Trishna Patel and Lizzie Johnson

Sponsor: Patagonia Inc.

Strategies For Active Jeans

Design new strategies for improving the waistband and seams of jeans to better the comfort and performance, while keeping the process simple and cost effective.

Team: Callen Burril, Maggie Arnold and Dezerae Barnes

Sponsor: VF Corp.

Cellulose Acetate Spun-Yarn Technologies

Create an innovative cellulose acetate yarn and fabric, as well as explore the use of that material in the garment market.

Team: Jade Luna-Ramos, Vernon Holman and Courtney Reiman

Sponsor: Eastman Chemical Co.

Quick-To-Market Textile Product

Analyze Under Armour’s process and propose a fully U.S.-based supply chain that can reduce a garment lead time to between three and six weeks.

Team: Adam Barksdale, Lauren Weichinger, Michaela Snavely, Jon Duncan, Robert Wright and Ivana Mbullah

Sponsor: Under Armour

Liner For Use With Prosthetics

Using seamless knitting designed to develop a liner used in the junction of the prosthetic that is comfortable for the user, but does not compromise the stability of the prosthetic.

Team: Zach Dean, Colleen Kaiser and Lindsay Peden

Sponsor: WillowWood

Reflective Garment & Analysis

Explore commercially available materials to produce reflective athletic clothing at minimal cost and design a reflective garment for safety and visual appeal.

Team: Symone Woods, Marvin Graser and Kaitlyn Kramer

Sponsor: Hanesbrands

Textile Composite Support Structure

Define a composite textile replacement for traditional steel structures that offers improved product lifetime and lower weight.

Team: Vishal Rutanen-Whaley, James DeCoster, Bradly Tull and Sam Stout

Sponsor: Firestone Fibers & Textiles

Cool Cotton

Engineer a cotton based fabric that changes its structure to provide increased ventilation and air circulation in response to rising temperature of the wearer or environment.

Team: Tiffany Kelly, Kassi Wehbie, Kale Whetstone and Marcus Zeigler

Sponsor: Cotton Incorporated

Biometrics Feedback Shirt

Develop a launderable, multi-sensor garment designed to increase access to biometric data for athletes at all levels.

Team: Mandy Hall,

Nate Weiner, Hunter Hendrick and Katherine Barrows

Sponsor: ASSIST Engineering Research Center & Hanesbrands

Wading/Submersion Fabric Durability Optimization

Create a test method for fabrics that will determine whether or not the fabric will stay waterproof through use and then developing a prototype fabric that is able to meet required criteria.

Team: Chelsea Lloyd, Jesse Noble, Chris West and Ken Everhart

Sponsor: Patagonia Inc.


Interested? To learn more about the program and the recent projects, visit textiles.ncsu.edu/tecs/student-experience/senior-design/ or visit the NCSU booth at IFAI Expo 2016 in Charlotte in October.
The College of Textiles currently is soliciting projects for the 2016-2017 academic year. If you are interested in sponsoring a project this year or in the future, please contact Dr. Jesse Jur, jsjur@ncsu.edu; and Dr. Russell Gorga, regorga@ncsu.edu.


July/August 2016

DyStar LP To Acquire Emerald Business Units

Charlotte-based DyStar LP, a subsidiary of Singapore-based DyStar Global Holdings (Singapore) Pte. Ltd., has entered into an agreement with Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio-based Emerald Performance Materials LLC to acquire its Specialties, Polymer Additives and Nitriles specialty chemical units. In a secondary, separate transaction, DyStar will sell the Polymer Additives and Nitriles units to China-based Jiangsu Sinochem Technology Co. Ltd., a subsidiary of Sinochem Group. DyStar will retain the Specialties unit, which adds three new manufacturing sites to DyStar’s U.S. business.

“We are enthusiastic about the growth that the combination will foster,” said Ruan Weixiang, the Chairman of DyStar group. “This high quality acquisition will significantly strengthen DyStar’s position in the chemical industry and we are uniquely positioned to take advantage of the new revenue growth and synergy opportunities.”

July/August 2016

Epson To Acquire Robustelli

Italy-based Epson Italia S.p.A., an Epson Group company, has entered into an agreement with the Robustelli family to acquire 100-percent of the capital of Fratelli Robustelli S.r.l. The two companies will focus on driving synergies and research and development efforts to bring a wider lineup of digital printing products to meet customers’ needs.

“Our cooperation with Epson led to the development of Monna Lisa, an industrial digital textile printer that is today a market benchmark for high-quality textile printing,” said Valerio Robustelli, one of the proprietors of F.lli Robustelli. “The combination of our respective skills is the natural conclusion of a process of innovation to satisfy customers in Italy and the rest of the world.”

“As the market for high-quality digital textile printing expands, I believe that formalizing our partnership with Robustelli in this way puts us in a great place to meet the needs of the growing numbers of customers who are seeking to leverage the advantages of advanced digital solutions that will help drive their businesses forward.,” said Sunao Murata, COO, Epson’s Professional Printing Operations Division.

Murata will be named president of Robustelli once the acquisition is complete.

July/August 2016

Delta Galil To Acquire Premium VF Corp. Brands

Israel-based Delta Galil Industries Ltd. has entered into a definitive agreement with Greensboro, N.C.-based VF Corp. to acquire three premium contemporary brands — 7 For All Mankind®, Splendid® and Ella Moss® — for $120 million subject to various working capital adjustments. Delta Galil projects the transaction, which is expected to close in the third quarter of this year, will add more than $300 million to top line sales annually, and the deal is expected to be accretive to the company’s earnings in 2017.

“We are thrilled to be adding three renowned premium brands to our portfolio, as they further diversify our product offering and distribution channels, while adding significant strength to our structure,” said Isaac Dabah, CEO of Delta Galil.

“Earlier this year we said that we are taking a focused and proactive look at the composition of our business portfolio to ensure that we are well positioned to maximize VF’s growth and return to our shareholders,” said Eric Wiseman, chairman and CEO, VF Corp. “This announcement illustrates that our work as active portfolio managers is progressing.”

July/August 2016

Denim North America Debuts R3 Denim™ Line

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Denim from DNA’s new R3 Denim™ Collection features ECO2cotton® yarns manufactured by Jimtex Yarns.

Columbus, Ga.-based Denim North America (DNA), a division of DNA Textile Group, has introduced the R3 Denim™ sustainable collection made using certified ECO2cotton® yarns manufactured by Lincolnton, Ga.-based Jimtex Yarns, a division of Martex Fiber Southern Corp. ECO2cotton yarns are manufactured using pre-consumer, post-industrial cotton knit cuttings that have been discarded during the apparel cut-and-sew process.

“We are taking recycled a step further with the added benefit of performance to offer a sustainable yet functional modern denim,” said Lisa A. Harris, creative and marketing director, DNA. “Each pair of jeans made with R3Denim contains the equivalent of two recycled t-shirts.”

DNA and Martex will promote R3 Denim to customer, while emphasizing Martex’s “No Fiber Left Behind™” campaign that focuses on zero landfill.

July/August 2016

Responsive Retail

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Apparel left on the racks at retail often is sold at a deep discount, and some consumers have become accustomed to not paying full price in anticipation of these discounts.

Faster, smarter supply chains can limit retail discounts.

By David Sasso

In a perfect world, apparel stores would predict consumer demand with prophetic accuracy, order the exact inventory needed months in advance, and sell every item at full price, leaving customers delighted — and stocks depleted.

Of course, as retailers and brands well know, the world isn’t perfect. The whims of fashion change faster than the seasons, as customers chase hot new items and neglect yesterday’s trends. For many brands, their supply chains aren’t equipped to keep pace.

How Brands Get Stuck With Discounts And Stockouts

As products linger on the racks, companies slash prices to make them more compelling. In fact, the industry’s reliance on discounts has largely trained consumers to expect prices to drop, sending them straight to the sale section while sneering at full price items.

On the flip side, brands lucky enough to hit on a trending style may face frustrating stockouts — and leave disappointed customers looking elsewhere for a similar style. By the time their supply chain can replenish the hot item, fashion may have sprinted forward — forcing retailers to turn back to discounts to move last cycle’s winning inventory.

If you’re a brand or retailer, you understand the risks. Colors, designs, and weather-appropriate apparel fall in and out of fashion in a matter of weeks — order too much, and your investment rots; too little, and you leave easy money on the table.

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Brands and retailers may be able to reduce speed-to-market lead time by leveraging the supply chain — focusing on relationships, strategy and location.

Supply Chain Solutions To Faster Fashion

The perfect solution to an imperfect world? Faster, smaller orders — and more of them. Why take the shotgun approach to your inventory when you could place well-timed, precise surgical strikes?

If you had the ability to restock in weeks instead of months, you could order everything in small amounts, see what’s selling, and respond to demand as you go, offering exactly what your consumers want at full price.

For many brands and retailers, a fast fashion model still feels like a pipe dream. With a traditional Asia-based supply chain, you’re looking at a 10- to 25-week waiting period on reorders. By focusing on relationships, strategy, and location, you may be able to cut your speed-to-market lead time down to 14-28 days.

Relationships: Communicate With The Entire Supply Chain

Too often, brands depend solely on their garment manufacturer, wary of making contact with the rest of the supply chain. “We only buy fabric,” they say, “why would we get involved with the yarn?” The answer, of course, is that you need the yarn to make the fabric.

If you only work through the fabric manufacturers, you’re relying on them for all sourcing decisions. Need a fast order? If you can’t get right yarn quickly enough, you’ll have to change suppliers, which changes the fabric — giving your customers an inconsistent experience and risking lost loyalty. Successful, fast fashion brands establish lines of communications with everyone along the supply chain, from yarn spinners and knitters to the partners who cut, sew, trim, and dye.

By opening up a dialogue with everyone involved, you can give them forewarning about rapid new orders, securing production and quality without sacrificing speed. This communication is especially critical when you’re working with specialty fabrics, like Supima Cotton®, Lenzing MicroModal® and Lenzing Micro TENCEL®.

Strategy: Pre-Position Yarn And Fabric

Here’s where small and medium brands have a distinct advantage in the world of fast fashion. If you only use a handful of yarns or fabrics, you can reliably predict that you’ll use a certain amount of each — even if you don’t yet know what the final product will be.

Work with your supply chain to pre-position your most widely used fabrics and yarns; by investing ahead of time, you’ll have the raw materials on hand and dramatically reduce your speed to market.

Just be sure not to pre-position colored fabric, as color tends to be the most unpredictable element of fashion — and the easiest to adapt to with undyed materials.

Location: React Faster With American-Made Products

Sourcing from U.S.-based companies doesn’t just ensure a higher quality product — it’s also dramatically faster to receive shipments. If you’re still tethered to an overseas supply chain, you’ll have to pay up for air freights or deal with ships that take several weeks. American producers also eliminate language barriers, making it easier to clearly communicate your requirements.

Here again, smaller brands have an advantage. While bigger companies are tied to Asian suppliers with equity partnerships and investments, more agile brands are free to source in the United States and reap the benefits: speed, quality, and communication.

The Result: Affordable Fast Fashion

With these strategies in place, brands can enjoy significantly faster speed-to-market times of mere weeks. With a strong, smart, and nimble supply chain, you’re free to make smaller, faster orders to capitalize on the latest trends while curbing discounts and stockouts.

It’s not just a winning business strategy; it’s a path to greater peace of mind. By relying on your entire supply chain to guarantee rapid production, you can stop and start as the market demands without worrying about excess waste — and offer your consumers the products they want today.


Editor’s Note: David Sasso is vice president of International Sales at Jefferson, Ga.-based Buhler Quality Yarns Corp.; buhleryarns.com.


 

July/August 2016

 

Vertical Integration: Creytex

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Creytex specializes in apparel manufacturing. Photographs courtesy of Inexmoda

Colombia-based garment manufacturer Creytex produces its own brands and offers full-package production for other brands.

By Dr. Virgilio L. González, Latin America Correspondent, Textiles Panamericanos

Creytex is a vertically integrated Colombia-based textile company that specializes in garment manufacturing. Most of the company’s production is exported to the United States. Founded in 1971 by Bernardo Bustamante and his wife Alba Montoya in Medellin, the company has developed two business models — full-package production for well-known brands, and production of its own Belife and Baby Planet brands.

Production Processes

The company uses knitting machines from Japan-based Fukuhara Industrial & Trading Co. Ltd. Yarns used in the knitting process are produced in Colombia and North American. Creytex knits fine yarns in a variety of fiber types including cotton, polyester, viscose, spandex, bamboo and predyed blends.

The company dyes fabrics using disperse and reactive dyeing techniques as well as pigments. Finishing techniques employed include chemical and mechanical finishing to impart wicking, hydrophobic and antibacterial properties; ultraviolet protection; and dirt and oil repellency among other finishes. All finishes are designed to comply with export standards.

Product design and development is conducted by a team of highly qualified graphic and fashion designers as well as pattern makers, tech designers, cost analysts and specialists that create the designs customers request.

Creytex uses automated machinery from Italy-based Morgan Tecnica S.p.A. for cutting and fabric extension. Floating tables allow fabric for the 17,000 units cut each day to be moved without impacting fabric quality.

The tailoring department is capable of multitasking throughout the sewing process. Most installed sewing machines are from Japan-based Brother Industries Ltd. Creytex also has pneumatic, electronic and automated machines that reduce production time for each garment.

Creytex also has capabilities for product decoration including screen printing, embroidery and dye sublimation printing. Dye sublimation offers an increased color spectrum and intensity, allows polychromatic designs as well as application on top of garments without muddying or staining with excellent graphic definition.

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Creytex uses knitting machines from Japan-based Fukuhara Industrial & Trading Co. Ltd.

Business Success

Creytex’s believes its successful business model lies on:

  • Fast response time — lead times start at 45 days;
  • Flexibility — production orders start at 600 units per color and 1,200 per style and in decoration, 72 units can be produced per graphic art; and
  • Innovation — the company continuously investigates new fabrics, textile blends and fibers while applying the latest technology and textile finishes.

In addition, Creytex has also achieved high quality standards, garnered international certifications. The company’s clients include Champion, Columbia, Sports Wear, Reef, Polo, Ralph Lauren, Disney, Under Armour and VF Corp. Exports to the United States account for 70-percent of total exports with Germany, Mexico, Venezuela, Costa Rica and Ecuador making up the remaining 30 percent. Creytex’s 450 employees make 350,000 garment units per month, and the installed plant capacity allows for future growth.

July/August 2016

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