More than 100 years after first opening its doors, Vanguard Pailung still finds success as the United States’ only circular knitting machine builder by focusing on technology it knows best.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

In this day and age, any company still in business after more than 100 years has to be doing something right. If that company happens to be manufacturing circular knitting machines for the textiles industry and actually continues to build them in the United States, then it really has to be doing just about everything right, pretty much like Vanguard Pailung.

The quick, greatly abbreviated version of a 100-plus-year story begins in 1916 when a small family business, originally named Supreme Knitting Machine Co., began manufacturing and selling circular knitting machines. In 1972, Bill Moody began working for the company then known as Singer Supreme. Beginning in accounting, he rose through different positions before joining with other investors to buy the company in 1978. After riding “the wave of success” for several years, the company was sold to Monarch in the late 1980s and became Vanguard Supreme, where Moody remained until 1998 when he left to start Nova Knitting Machinery. In 2001, Nova Knitting entered into an exclusive marketing agreement with Pailung Machinery Mill Co. giving Nova the rights to sell Pailung knitting machines in North and South America. In 2009, Vanguard Supreme was for sale and Moody, the now-retired Leo Yates and Pailung created a partnership to acquire the company from Monarch, thus creating Vanguard Pailung.

Today, Vanguard Pailung is the only remaining manufacturer of larger diameter circular knitting machines in North America and is riding a new wave of success by producing machines highly regarded for their speed, reliability and overall productivity. But when success was mentioned to Moody, now president of Vanguard Pailung, he modestly said, “Well, we just work in luck.” Spend several hours with him and others at their facility in Monroe, N.C., and it quickly becomes apparent that there’s a bit more than luck involved in the company’s success. A solid commitment to equal parts focus, family, foundation and the future certainly have formed the backbone of the success.

Focus

Unlike many companies in today’s marketplace, Vanguard Pailung decided long ago to specifically focus on what it does best. As a result, there is a clear understanding of whom its customer is, what the expectations are and how the machines need to perform. Vanguard Pailung focuses on producing high speed, commodity machines — basically the workhorses of the weft knit fabrics industry. The “Titan Pro Series,” Vanguard Pailung’s hallmark offering, is manufactured to extremely tight tolerances using the highest quality materials. This combination reduces heat build-up and vibration during knitting, which reduces parts replacements and increases the machine’s working life, even at higher running speeds. Machine offerings include four-track single jersey, three-end fleece and rib configurations. Knitting cylinders are available in 4- to 36-inch-diameters and from 7- to 36-gauge cylinder and dials. The company’s partner, Taiwan-based Pailung, currently offers more than 80 machine models including many with jacquard selection capabilities. Combined offerings from the two companies create what is likely the most diverse range of weft knit product offerings in the world.

“We wanted to focus on the technology we knew best and make it better than anyone else” said Moody. Since Vanguard Pailung’s machines represent “bread and butter” offerings for the circular knitting industry worldwide including T-shirt and polo shirt, stretch and fleece fabrics among other fabric types that continue to feed the casual clothing boom, Moody realized that they needed to separate the company’s products from other machine manufacturers. “We asked ‘how do we reduce costs, but not performance,’ and simply focused on improving our machine’s overall quality and productivity,” Moody said.

Vanguard Pailung continues to invest heavily in engineering and equipment. “By improving our engineering and design team we’re now able to create more efficient and effective knitting machines,” Moody added. New equipment has improved manufacturing tolerances — “We now have extremely fine tolerances, down to 0.0005 inches on critical parts,” Moody said — and overall machine quality. Major machining of parts along with all final machine assemblies are performed in Monroe. The bulk of all purchased components are made in the United States. Vanguard Pailung has been very conscious of sourcing, qualifying and working with local suppliers wherever possible. This allows for closer collaborations on integrating designs and making the sum of all parts even better. Its machines are known for some of the highest running rates in the industry. Specific configurations can run up to 2,100 speed factors — 70 revolutions per minute on a 30-inch diameter machine — for jersey knits, with high production rates resulting from the combination of running speeds, larger roll doffs and greatly improved overall quality. Even with the wealth of technology available through Pailung, Vanguard Pailung’s focus still remains on this family of products because that’s what it knows and what it does well.

Family

Moody is a proud family man and happy to mention that several Moody family members work at Vanguard Pailung in various positions. But it doesn’t end with just his family; Bill is also quick to say, “There has always been an emphasis on family at Vanguard Pailung.” The family feel is palpable when one walks through the office and manufacturing floor with any of the Moodys. “We want the employees to feel like family because, in essence, they are,” Moody said. “We make a conscious effort to treat people how we want to be treated. We have a quarterly employee appreciation luncheon and produce an employee newsletter where fellow employees write many of the articles. We’re rewarded by the fact that rarely anyone ever quits.”

Vanguard Pailung also is not afraid to hire industry veterans, regardless of age. The veterans offer their knowledge and insights that assist in the training of younger and less experienced employees. This contributes greatly in retaining the high level of “tribal knowledge” embodied within a 100-year-old company. Currently, there are 115 people working at Vanguard Pailung, many with 20 years or more of experience. According to Moody: “We have people who’ve been here for many years, a couple at 50 years or more. The people we have, we’re not going to lose. They’re a very large part of the foundation that Vanguard Pailung is built on.”

Foundation

More than 100 years in business coupled with Moody’s nearly 50 years of involvement in circular knit textiles provides a pretty good basis for building a foundation for success. Add an experienced workforce that’s intimately familiar with the products made, throw in a strong partnership with Pailung that greatly extends the product offerings and resources available, as well as giving Vanguard Pailung true access to global markets and there is the makings of a pretty solid foundation.

The fact that this solid foundation happens to reside squarely within the United States creates opportunities as well. “We are definitely seeing a shift in manufacturing coming back to the United States,” stated Mike Moody, vice president, product development. “The fashion industry wants faster seasonal turnovers and they don’t want to get caught sitting on what’s left of large minimum quantities, not to mention the possibility of bulk container transport and customs issues associated with products coming from foreign countries. So there’s more of a localized movement present.” The phrase “Made in America” still holds cache in many areas as well. “Last year, we sold roughly 250 machines in North and South America,” said Mary Kate Moody, Vanguard Pailung’s vice president of sales. “Pailung has been a good partner and is helping us to expand into other global markets including Bangladesh and India, where our biggest selling point is that the machines are ‘Made in America.’”

Product quality and constantly working to improve customer service continue to add strength to the foundation as well. “We won’t ship a machine without a Vanguard Pailung technician going with it to ensure the customer is satisfied with our products,” Bill Moody stated. “When we help customers set up their new machines, we entrust our technicians to train the operators and technicians on how to correctly work with the machines, which also aids in customer satisfaction.” With an eye to the future and to improve and strengthen service outside of the the United States, Vanguard Pailung established a sales office and warehouse in Honduras along with offices in Mexico and Columbia to more effectively address South American markets.

Future

“We’re engineering the future of knitting machines,” suggested Bill Moody, and the company’s “Wildfire program is helping us to lead the way.” Wildfire Knit Works is a division of Vanguard Pailung that wears many hats. Effectively a design and research and development consultancy led by Mike Moody and Mandi Strickland, Wildfire offers its clients — who range from OEM’s and mills to individuals with new concepts — assistance in turning ideas into reality fast and efficiently. Similar in scope to Pailung’s Open Innovation Labs, Wildfire can advance concepts and ideas; offer support in fiber and yarn selection, fabric design and sourcing needs; act as a translator to ensure efficient communication of ideas and designs into realities; and provide inspiration for new ideas through its industry knowledge and the availability of vast fabric and design resources within Vanguard Pailung’s and Pailung’s innovation libraries. “When we bought the company, we were T-shirt people,” Bill Moody said. We knew we needed to expand our knowledge base with the markets changing and the opportunities presented by segments of the industry coming back to the U.S. Wildfire helps us do that.”

“We offer existing and new clients at all levels of the supply chain the opportunity to begin with the ideal machine and then work towards finding an ideal solution,” Mike Moody said. “This allows our clients to focus on function and performance rather than possibly being forced to accept a compromise because of a mill’s machine availability.”

The future is bright at Vanguard Pailung, with Wildfire’s innovative approach to design and ideation and several new machine offerings on the way. Vanguard Pailung will be introducing its first collar machine in the coming months, and a new Knit Management System (KMS) that supports Industry 4.0 initiatives is up and running and extending customer support to new levels. The company also has begun offering used and refurbished machines to give customers additional cost-effective options. And as one might expect, there always are a number of ongoing research and development projects in the works.

Demonstrate a solid focus, strong family values, stable foundation and a clear eye to the future, and is it any wonder why Bill Moody and Vanguard Pailung are “working in luck?”

November/December 2017

Cotton Council International recently launched a new promotional campaign for U.S.-grown cotton

TW Special Report

This year, Washington-based Cotton Council International (CCI) — the export promotions arm of the National Cotton Council (NCC), Cordova, Tenn. — launched a new campaign for U.S.-grown cotton: “COTTON USA is the Cotton the World Trusts.” The entire U.S. cotton industry — farmers, ginners, warehousers, merchants, classers, cooperatives, and manufacturers — is proud to be able to work together to create cotton fiber that is preferred for quality and is truly “The Cotton The World Trusts.” CCI carries this message to more than 50 countries through its 20 worldwide offices.

U.S. cotton offers manufacturers, as well as consumers, many benefits. It is a high-quality fiber produced in a sustainable and transparent manner while harnessing the latest industry innovations and offering premium value.

Sustainability

U.S. cotton is produced sustainably and is fairly grown. Family farmers own the land. Their fields have been in their families for generations, so it’s in their own best interest to protect them for future generations.

Furthermore, U.S. cotton is governed by a strict regulatory system. Environmental and workplace regulations are strictly enforced by federal and state agencies and the penalties for non-compliance are both civil and criminal. Farmers fill out extensive paperwork and are inspected by both state and federal officials. This comprehensive system of sustainability measurement is at the forefront of the industry.

Figure 1 shows the U.S. cotton industry’s continuing commitment to the environment with 35 years of reduced environmental impact.

The U.S. cotton industry also uses Precision Agricultural Management — innovative technologies that use high-tech measurement systems driven by computers to achieve high quality and yield using less water and fewer chemicals. New technologies are the key drivers for precision agriculture. For example, unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) technology allows producers to “map” fields, so they know exactly where inputs are needed, and they can use small precise dosages of water or plant protection products. Computer driven moisture sensors improve water efficiency. “No tillage” techniques also are employed to preserve the soil.

With the goal of helping its members meet their current needs while making the world a better place for future generations, the U.S. cotton industry is setting goals that aim to build upon the strong environmental gains already achieved over the past 30 years.

“Our industry wants to be the supplier of choice for those who are committed to only buying cotton that is produced with sustainable and responsible environmental, safety and labor practices,” said NCC Chairman Ronnie Lee, a Georgia cotton producer. “That is the objective that was set by the Council’s COTTON USA Sustainability Task Force.”

Task Force Chairman Ted Schneider, a Louisiana cotton producer, said the actual sustainability resolution that the Council adopted earlier this year called for the creation of the sustainability task force and specified that it collaborate with U.S. cotton industry associations “on developing industry-wide goals for measurable continual improvements in environmental stewardship, farm productivity, and resource efficiency such as land, water, air, input, and energy use.”

Schneider mentioned some of the specific goals being pursued by 2025, including:

• reducing by 13 percent the amount of land needed to produce a pound of cotton fiber;
• reducing soil loss by 50 percent, in balance with new soil formation;
• increasing water use efficiency — more fiber per gallon — by 18 percent;
• reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 39 percent;
• increasing soil carbon in fields by 30 percent; and
• reducing energy to produce seed cotton and ginned lint by 15 percent.

“U.S. cotton growers have achieved significant environmental gains over the past three decades,” explained Schneider. “The goals are meant to continue that trend and to reinvigorate efforts through the setting of realistic targeted reductions.”

“We believe the United States may be the only country in the world with these kind of specific, measurable, quantified goals,” said Dahlen Hancock, chairman of Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated’s Board of Directors. Cotton Incorporated’s scientists have worked diligently to develop and refine U.S. cotton’s sustainability initiative.

Hancock, who is a Texas cotton producer, said the U.S. cotton industry is using science-based metrics and benchmarks developed by Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture to assess environmental impacts and identify opportunities for improvement. Field to Market works across the entire agricultural supply chain to define, measure and advance the sustainability of U.S. crop production.

Hancock also is the former chairman of CCI, and said the organization looks forward to “sharing with U.S. cotton’s global customers the strides our industry will continue to make in providing the world with responsibly produced, quality fiber.”

Quality

Quality in. Quality out. That’s why, when mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers want strong, consistent and uniform fibers, they turn to COTTON USA. Since the mid-1980s, U.S. cotton fiber has undergone an enormous transformation. Intensive research and superior technology has produced a cotton product that’s now whiter, finer, stronger and cleaner.

The U.S. cotton industry prides itself on offering high quality, no matter what grade of cotton is specified. From jeans to sheets to the finest white shirts, the industry delivers. A comparison of the classing data from the last 10 years shows that the U.S. cotton industry has truly become a one-stop supermarket of cottons.

U.S. cotton is 100-percent machine-picked cotton. And the U.S. cotton industry has an ongoing and continuing commitment to educate growers and ginners on the latest technologies and practices for the elimination of potential sources of contamination.

U.S. cotton’s fiber fineness, or micronaire, and color quality also are excellent. Micronaire is key to producing yarns for knit fabric formers. And U.S. cotton makes the job of dyeing yarn much easier. Most U.S. cotton now classes as a white grade, the easiest fiber to dye, as compared to spotted or tinged grade.

As spinning and fabric forming speeds increased, perhaps the greatest demand on fiber was for increased strength. The U.S. cotton industry uses innovative seed varieties scientifically developed to provide stronger, longer cotton fibers. The longer fiber allows for more twist to be applied during spinning. The increase in twist produces yarn and fabric strong enough to knit and weave the highest quality cotton fabrics.

Recent COTTON USA mill studies show how using U.S. cotton leads to processing efficiencies that reduce costs. The research examined U.S. cotton quality, spinning and fabric manufacturing results. CCI conducted nearly 60 mills visits in six countries to present the results of these studies, and will continue to conduct one-on-one meetings with global textile mills to maximize the use of U.S. cotton.

Transparency

COTTON USA has become the cotton the world trusts because of years of transparent partnership. U.S. cotton is fairly traded, and the U.S. cotton industry stands behind its bales. And the United States is the only country in the world that tests 100-percent of all its bales. Not every fourth or fifth. Not even every other. Every single bale. So a customer knows he will receive what was ordered. It’s just one more example of the U.S. cotton industry’s commitment to excellence — and your satisfaction.

The U.S. cotton industry uses the latest computer classing technology to make sure every bale is fairly and correctly classed. And its stringent processes insure uniformity and consistency within classes.

Every bale has its own Permanent Bale Identification (PBI) tag. As each bale goes through the ginning and classing process, this tag goes along with it. So a buyer always knows where, when and how the bale was harvested, ginned and classed.

Premium Value

COTTON USA is committed to creating programs, networking opportunities and educational forums that benefit mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers. It’s all a part of the premium value that COTTON USA brings to the entire supply chain. This dedication to helping build closer relationships between suppliers and buyers benefits the entire industry.

To help facilitate its goals, COTTON USA introduced a new global website located at cottonusa.org. Translated into 12 different languages, the site offers mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers economic data, global supplier search capabilities, and new developments in the areas of cotton sustainability, quality, transparency and innovation. The new COTTON USA website is totally focused on serving business needs, and newly built to connect, educate and inspire the entire cotton supply chain.

COTTON USA also provides sourcing services and networking opportunities. The biennial Sourcing USA Summit brings together U.S. cotton merchants with the world’s premier mills and manufacturers in the industry’s largest event. COTTON USA provides information on the latest innovations in cotton production through ongoing seminars, conferences, executive delegations and U.S. Cotton Belt tours that update textile executives on U.S. cotton industry developments, techniques and processes. Through COTTON USA Buyers’ Tours and Sourcing Fairs, CCI facilitates the sourcing process for the buyers by preselecting manufacturers and providing basic company profile information based on the buyers’ needs.

Furthermore, the COTTON USA Sourcing Program is a successful partnership between CCI and a group of U.S. cotton textile manufacturers designed to develop business relationships along the entire cotton textile and apparel supply chain. CCI has developed relationships with companies throughout Latin America through private trade events, regional trade shows and personal visits.

The COTTON USA™ Mark licensing program continues to add value to customers’ business. The COTTON USA Mark is a sign of softness, strength, comfort and sustainability to consumers around the world. It identifies superior cotton products made with a majority of cotton grown in the United States. In a recent hangtag study, the COTTON USA Mark was proven to add value for consumers. But even more significantly, consumers indicated they would be willing to pay more for a product with the COTTON USA Mark rather than a generic 100-percent cotton logo. CCI recently signed 136 new COTTON USA licensees, for a total of 714 licensed mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers that proudly use the COTTON USA Mark. It’s easy to become a licensee — just ask a local CCI representative.

Innovation

To showcase a continued focus on innovation, COTTON USA launched its new “WHAT’S NEW IN COTTON™” initiative with the objective of inspiring the target audience to think about the many opportunities in U.S. cotton and ultimately to specify more U.S. cotton in their products. At recent international trade shows — including Premiére Vision in Paris and Intertextile in Shanghai, China — CCI, Cotton Incorporated and Supima collaborated to exhibit jointly in one large cotton pavilion and showcase What’s New In Cotton including innovations in technologies, fabric blends, performance, design and fashion.

CCI also launched the innovative COTTON USA Mill Exchange Program in Southeast Asia, which enables textile mills to see firsthand how competitors are successfully using U.S. cotton in their mills to increase profits, as well as learn best practices.

CCI is dedicated to making U.S. cotton the preferred fiber for mills/manufacturers, brands/retailers and consumers, commanding a value-added premium that delivers profitability across the U.S. cotton industry and drives export growth of fiber, yarn and other cotton products. CCI’s demand-building activities are critical in showcasing U.S. cotton’s quality, sustainability, transparency, premium value and innovation — all of which make U.S. cotton “The Cotton The World Trusts.”

November/December 2017