For American Upholstery Manufacturers, Fabric Is A Commitment To Excellence

NCTO1American textile manufacturers have found the secret to thriving

TW Special Report

We’re living in an age of globalization, automation and instant gratification.
That’s exciting, but it can spell trouble for some manufacturers. Those who can’t operate at breakneck pace and meet ever-evolving customer demand are forgotten; those who can keep up sometimes sacrifice product quality and customer relationships to do so.

But American textile manufacturers have found the secret to thriving. Two such companies, Sunbury, Pa.-based Sunbury Textile Mills and Valdese, N.C.-based Valdese Weavers Inc., are creating upholstery fabrics to meet the unique customer needs of today.
These companies are market leaders in the United States thanks to their long-term dedication to quality, customization, innovation and customer service.

Editor’s Note: Since this article originally appeared in NCTO’s Textures magazine, Glen Raven Inc., a global provider of performance fabrics, signed an agreement to purchase Sunbury. Under the agreement, Sunbury will become a wholly owned subsidiary of Glen Raven and will operate as part of Glen Raven Custom Fabrics LLC, best known as the maker of Sunbrella® fabrics.

Quality Is Paramount

Quality is a significant differentiator between domestic products and those made overseas.

“Most of the products you can purchase from overseas manufacturers are not anything special,” said Mark Grigalunas, senior vice president of styling and design at Sunbury Textile Mills. “The makers of those fabrics are playing a price game; they can’t compare to the quality of upholstery materials made in the United States.”

While quality is a major point of emphasis for U.S.-based companies, successful American textile manufacturers must also be nimble. How quickly a new trend or fabric style is adopted and produced can impact customer perception of the company and future growth.

“Whether it’s aesthetics, performance or other criteria, the market is constantly changing,” said Blake Millinor, chief sales and marketing officer at Valdese Weavers. “American manufacturers are much better positioned than their global counterparts to identify trends and adjust quickly.”

NCTOBCustomization Drives Production

Today’s consumer is looking for eye-catching fabrics that can withstand the wear and tear of daily life and make a personal statement about his or her tastes and lifestyle.
Superior customization capabilities allow manufacturers to meet this demand.

“Working with customers to create unique custom fabrics is essential in today’s market,” said Laura Levinson, chief creative officer at Valdese Weavers. “That includes differences in construction, fiber, color and weave.”

As American manufacturers continually adjust to meet high expectations when it comes to custom upholstery fabric, a common theme emerges: performance.

“Interiors are becoming more casual with a focus on the family room,” Levinson said. “Stain-resistant and stain-repellent upholstery materials are taking off in the home segment.”

But customers want more than durable fabric. They want durable fabric that is also soft, welcoming and beautiful.

“Customers today have higher expectations and demands for fabric styles and performance than ever before,” said Tom Notaro, senior vice president of sales and marketing, Sunbury Textile Mills. “They want a high aesthetic with soft texture and performance properties that come together in a highly desirable, valuable product.”

NCTO3Innovative Technology And Infrastructure

Providing quality materials in a short time frame requires the highest technical capabilities.
That’s one reason why American upholstery manufacturers remain committed to innovation. Robust computer systems provide enormous support to manufacturers, not only in creating unique designs, but also in optimizing production and quality throughout the supply chain.

“Advanced software allows us to generate designs in a short amount of time,” Levinson said. “Our design system is fast and powerful and is completely digital, from the loom to fabric finishing. This gives us critical advantages in the breadth of design options and speed to market.”

According to Notaro, investing in a state-of-the-art infrastructure also helps American upholstery manufacturers stay ahead of offshore competitors.

“Sunbury annually invests in new equipment,” Notaro said. “We invest in our company every year, from systems to design tools. If American companies stand still, global competition will catch up. It’s imperative to keep moving forward.”

Relationships Are The Fabric Of Business

But perhaps the most significant advantage American upholstery makers have is not something you can find in new machinery or on a financial report.

“There’s no replacement for building deep, loyal relationships with customers,” said Mike Shelton, president and CEO, Valdese Weavers. “At Valdese, we don’t sell what we make, we make what we sell. Our creations are usually a custom fabric collaboratively developed with a client. We are always trying to meet their needs.”

Meeting the needs of the customer is one aspect of the relationship. Reliability is another.

“Our customers are more than willing to work with us because they know our time frame on bringing their designs and creations to life,” Grigalunas said. “When we quote production and delivery dates, they know it’s the truth. We don’t make promises if we can’t deliver.”

And for many of the most successful American textile mills, relationships and loyalty aren’t limited to customers.

“Our people live and work in our communities,” Notaro said. “We are a local, American-driven company that invests in our people. We care deeply about our employees and associates. They are our foundation, and they will continue to drive our success.”


Editor’s Note: This article appears in Textile World courtesy of the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) as part of the “American Textiles: We Make Amazing™” campaign. NCTO is a trade association representing U.S. textile manufacturing. Please visit ncto.org to learn more about NCTO, the industry and the campaign.


September/October 2017

CODEVI: Unwavering Vision

CODEVI
The CODEVI development features 17 buildings today with more under construction.

Haiti-based CODEVI industrial park has moved from a vision to the largest employer in the country’s northern region.

By Mike Todaro

Fernando Capellan had a vision that he might be able to build a unique industrial park in Haiti. His vision became a reality and the Compagnie de Développement Industriel S.A. (CODEVI) industrial park in Ouanaminthe, Haiti, on the Dominican Republic border now encompasses 17 buildings, with more in the works.
CODEVI is owned by Capellan’s Grupo M, a private apparel manufacturer founded in 1986. The Dominican Republic-based company is vertically integrated and produces knits and woven products for the U.S. market. Capellan opened CODEVI in August 2003. It remains the biggest socioeconomic project in the area and the largest employer in the country’s northern region.
But it wasn’t easy for Capellan to realize his vision. Haiti and the Dominican Republic are different countries and cultures with almost no history of industrial collaboration. Each nation has a population of approximately 10 million people. Haiti itself is among the low cost countries of the world. The industry added to that competitive advantage with trade laws and Free Trade Agreement’s such as the Haiti Economic Lift Program (HELP) Act and the Haitian Hemispheric Opportunity through Partnership Encouragement (HOPE) Act that granted use of foreign fabric and duty-free access to the United States, Europe and Canada and of course proximity. Port-au-Prince became the epicenter of factories in Haiti until CODEVI.

The construction project ran into standard issues encountered when starting a business in a foreign country including legal framework, identifying a location for the installation, financing, infrastructure, construction, training and much more. Still, what drove the project was Capellan’s unwavering vision — one of a park that consolidated cost-competitive Haitian labor in quantity, was on the border, met Haitian law, combined Dominican expertise and was supported by modern infrastructure. It could export from a more modern and closer Dominican port such as Manzanillo, which is only 20 minutes away, and help to further reduce lead-times and logistics.

CODEVI Today

CODEVI started with 4-million-square-feet of land. In 2008, there were five buildings and 3,000 employees. As of 2017, the park has grown to feature 17 buildings and employs 10,000 people. Brands manufacturing at the park include Levi’s, GAP Inc., Under Armour, Hanes, Fruit of the Loom, Carhartt, and Jockey among other brands; and the owners of factories located in the park are global players based in the United States, Sri Lanka, and China, to name a few countries. These companies do not invest lightly. They commit for years by building a factory from scratch, from the ground up and for the long haul. That’s the vision part of this report.

Codevifabric
Employees unpacking fabric at the Winds Group’s Mazava Haiti apparel factory.

“The starting point of the park was high,” said Joseph Blumberg, partner and senior vice president, marketing and new business, Grupo M. “We applied the proven formula of Grupo M, which is that compliance is in the DNA of everything we do.” Every detail of energy, training, social responsibility, environment, basic health, cooking, child education, transportation, safety and financial responsibility was considered 10,000 times — for every employee.

Take each employee. To be considered for hiring they must be able to read, write and perform basic math. In a country with more than 50 percent unemployment — and often much higher — competition for these jobs is high. When hired, each person receives three months of training at half pay and with full benefits. When hired, they can exceed 40-percent minimum wage with incentives.

When ground broke on the park in 2003, the area was extremely basic — hand-to-mouth with no formal economy. Today, the community is served by CODEVI’s radio and TV station that shows entertainment, educates and alerts the community to disease outbreaks. Additionally, back in 2003 none of the employees saved money. Today, more than 90 percent of CODEVI’s 10,000 employees participate in the park’s Savings and Loan Club.

Walking through the town of Ouanaminthe wearing a CODEVI badge is a sign of status. Capellan does not take full credit for the company’s success. “We believe that this success is due to the fact that the 10,000 employees identify with the work they do,” he said.

“Everyone has the opportunity to receive training and to improve his family’s quality of life.”
“We pick the companies who invest here carefully,” Blumberg said. However, it is clear the companies investing in the park see the potential. CODEVI is the only Dominican project in Haiti, and illustrates the value of the synergy each nation and its people bring to the table — motivated workers in a structured, highly efficient production center.

Finally, make no mistake, this is not just Dominicans and Haitians either. There may be more than a dozen nationalities working in multiple levels of management throughout the park. As a result, there is a collocated campus of apartments and even a hotel to support the traffic into the park. As for the park itself, it may soon grow from its current 4 million square foot size to nearly 10 million square feet in the future.

The expansion will include a MicroPark right across the bridge built to connect the park to the town. It will be a 600,000-square-foot town center featuring a vocational school, fully equipped clinic, food court, housing and recreational facilities. All of this is a part of a bigger picture being developed by the Quisqueya Economic Binational Council (CEBQ) with private sectors of both countries working side-by-side on a range of projects along the whole border to impact the economies and progress of both Haiti and the Dominican Republic.

Vision? Visions are pictures from the ends of albums of photos of other visions that hit the wall. As they say, it’s a dream until its put into writing, then it’s a plan. CODEVI was put into writing and Grupo M never changed a word of the plan because the plan was to “do it right from the start.”


Editor’s Note: Mike Todaro is the managing director of the Atlanta-based Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN). AAPN is a private sector, non-profit, members-only apparel industry business network of more than 600 company owners and senior executives from 200 companies across the apparel supply chain. Todaro thanks Capellan and Blumberg for the tour, and for Grupo M’s long-term membership and support of AAPN.


September/October 2017

VF Corp. To Acquire Williamson-Dickie

VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C., and Williamson-Dickie Mfg. Co., Fort Worth, Texas, have signed a definitive merger agreement. VF will pay Williamson-Dickie shareholders approximately $820 million in cash, and the deal is expected to be completed during the fourth quarter of 2017. Upon closing, Williamson-Dickie will become part of VF’s Imagewear coalition, and its Dickies®, Workrite®, Kodiak®, Terra® and Walls® brands will join VF’s workwear brands portfolio. Philip Williamson, Williamson-Dickie CEO, will remain with the company.

“When we introduced our 2021 global business strategy earlier this year, reshaping our portfolio to accelerate growth was our highest priority,” said Steve Rendle, president and CEO, VF. “The acquisition of Williamson-Dickie is another meaningful step that delivers on that commitment and further demonstrates our focus on being an active portfolio manager to drive transformative growth for VF and value creation for our shareholders.

“This acquisition combines two great companies and a group of iconic brands to create a global leader in workwear with approximately $1.7 billion in annual revenue,” Rendle added.

September/October 2017

DNA Introduces FYnesse® Denim

KAFYnesse
DNA North America has introduced FYnesse Denim featuring air covered FYnesse yarns (bottom).

Columbus, Ga.-based Denim North America (DNA), a division of DNA Textile Group, recently introduced FYnesse® Denim made using FYnesse yarn produced by Fiber & Yarn Products, a division of where-based Poole Co. The air covered polyester yarn features spandex, which is introduced at the point of maximum dynamic bulk to conceal the spandex deep into the yarn and create a performance stretch product that retains power, resilience and bulk.

Denim produced using the yarn offers almost half the shrinkage associated with traditional stretch denims for shape retention and consistency in garment sizing, according to DNA.

September/October 2017

Unifi Announces Plans For JV In Guatemala

Unifi Inc. has signed a non-binding letter of intent to form a joint venture (JV) with the owners of Complast S.A. and Technologia Textil Avanzada (TTA) both based in Guatemala. Unifi will own 51 percent of the JV and the Complast and TTA owners will hold the remaining 49 percent. Complast owns a bottle processing plant and produces flake and chip under the EuroPET name; and TTA manufactures partially oriented polyester yarns as well as textured yarns under the EuroFIL name. These two business will be contributed to the JV under the current proposal and the intention is to expand the operations if the JV goes ahead.

“Central America has been a region of focus for brands and retailers over the past few years, as apparel programs are sourced closer to the U.S.,” said Tom Caudle, president, Unifi. “The growth in the region is key to our strategy of building our Repreve and other value-added brands.”

September/October 2017

Fiber Industries To Restart Former Wellman Plant

Fiber Industries LLC has announced plans to open a new polyester fiber operation in the former Wellman Palmetto facility in Darlington, S.C. New York City-based investment firm MHR Fund Management LLC created Fiber Industries in order to restart the plant. The at least $30 million investment is expected to create jobs for 135 people, and should be in production in early 2018. The operation will be led by Andrew Rosenfeld and Leandro Carboni.

“Fiber Industries is excited about the opportunity to restart the Palmetto Plant and bring jobs to the Darlington area,” said Rosenfeld and Carboni. “The management team has been very impressed with the local workforce capabilities observed during its due diligence process.”

September/October 2017

Teijin Grows Twaron Capacity

The Netherlands-based Teijin Aramid has announced it will invest in new spinning technology to expand production of its Twaron fiber beginning in the first quarter of 2019.
In April this year, Teijin merged all of its aramid activities into one global business unit. Teijin aramid now has aramid plants in the Netherlands, Thailand and Japan.

September/October 2017

September/October 2017


PeopleGorgaJoseph L. Gorga (1952-2017)

Joseph L. “Joe” Gorga recently passed away at the age of 65. Gorga earned a B.S. degree in textile engineering from Philadelphia University and later an M.S. in textile engineering from the Institute of Textile Technology.

His long career in the industry began at Milliken & Company where he progressed from a management trainee to plant manager to director of manufacturing. After leaving Milliken, Gorga joined CMI Industries as president of its Elastic Fabrics of America and Finished Fabrics divisions. He later became chairman and CEO of CMI. In 2002, he joined Burlington Industries as executive vice president, North American Operations. Gorga was named president, CEO and member of the Board of Directors of the International Textile Group from its inception in 2004, where he remained until his retirement in 2014.

His contributions to the industry were many. During his career, Gorga was involved with the American Textile Manufacturing Institute, National Textile Association and National Council of Textile Organizations.

“Joe was a friend to us all and a great presence and leader in our industry worldwide,” said Kenneth Kunberger, president and CEO, ITG. “Joe’s leadership and integrity set a foundation in the company that continues today. He will be sorely missed, both personally and professionally.”


 

Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc. has named Richard E. Gerstein executive vice president, global branded Premium Value Added products and chief marketing officer. John Vegas was appointed executive vice president, global chief human resources officer.

France-based Lectra has named Rodrigo Siza regional director of Spain And Portugal.

Olivier Janin has joined the Netherlands-based DSM as vice president of marketing and sales, DSM Dyneema.

September/October 2017

Stäubli Is 125

Switzerland-based Stäubli is celebrating 125 years in business. The company has grown from its small beginnings back in 1892 into a company offering mechatronic solutions to the connectors, robotics and textile industrial sectors. Founded by Rudolph Schelling and Hermann Stäubli as Schelling & Stäubli in Horgen, Switzerland, the company introduced its first dobby in 1893. In 1900, the company launched the world’s first paper-card dobby, which was equipped with a warp-leasing system still in use today. After the death of Schelling in 1909, the company was renamed Stäubli.

“The spirit of innovation has defined our company from the beginning — it’s rooted deeply in the nature of Stäubli”, said Rolf Strebel, Stäubli CEO. “Our aspiration is to constantly improve — on a human, professional, and technical level — and to remain just as successful during the next 125 years.”

September/October 2017

Allertex Partners With Klieverik

Cornelius, N.C.-based Allertex of America Ltd. is now the exclusive representative for the Netherlands-based Klieverik Heli B.V. in the United States. Klieverik specializes in industrial rotary thermo processing equipment such as calenders and heat presses for technical textiles, nonwovens, carpet, digital dye sublimation transfer and direct printing applications. Its technology is suitable for laminating and coating a wide variety of substrates using a dry process with or without the use of thermoplastic adhesives; and also is used for thermobonding nonwovens.

September/October 2017

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