Archroma And Montega Italy Join Hands To Help Enhance The Standards Of Pakistan’s Garment Industry

REINACH, Switzerland — April 16, 2018 — Archroma and Montega S.r.l., Italy, have announced a collaboration aimed at supporting the fast-growing garment and apparel industry in Pakistan, particularly in the denim segment. The joint efforts will focus on fostering excellence in the finishing of textile garments.

Montega has decades of rich experience in developing the latest fashion trends with its high standard chemical treatments. For garments and fabrics, it offers solutions in finishing effects, enzymatic products, bio-polishing, bio-finishing and specialty products for indigo dyes, proteinaceous fibers such as wool and silk, and garment washing and/ laundry. All applications are geared toward environmental sustainability.

Archroma offers a wide range of brand and textile specialty chemicals that caters to the local industry in Pakistan for both its internal and export markets. The company’s expert team provides innovative solutions to its customers, tailored to their individual requirements.

Archroma will now represent Montega in marketing its products in Pakistan. The collaboration between the two firms will provide a unique synergy of combined expertise, reliability and commitment to environmental sustainability, especially toward the reduction of water usage and the emission of greenhouse gases during textile finishing processes. The design studio at the Archroma Center of Excellence in Pakistan will work extensively with Montega’s M-Lab Garment University in Riccione, Italy, to deliver solutions based on the latest trends and fashion effects, backed by world-class technical support.

Mujtaba Rahim, CEO of Archroma Pakistan, commented: “We, at Archroma, believe in continuous improvement and challenging the status quo to make our industry sustainable. We have dedicated ourselves to bringing innovation in our product lines and to closely partnering with like-minded organizations to build industrial rapport. Through this initiative of joining hands with Montega, we will be able to share latest R&D developments with the textile industry in Pakistan, and help grow Pakistan’s contribution in the global textile arena.”

Posted April 16, 2017

Source: Archroma

Americas Apparel Producers’ Network’s (AAPN) Conducts Inaugural Carolina Mill Tour

ATLANTA, Ga. — April 16, 2018 — During the week of April 9-13, 2018, the Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN) conducted its first ever Carolina Mill Tour.

AAPN has always been a place where small groups could act quickly. This tour is a perfect example as it was the idea of Contempora Fabrics’ President and AAPN Board member Ron Roach who invested months of planning with AAPN Executive Director Sue Strickland, Managing Director Mike Todaro and several other AAPN members to make it happen.

Participants visited Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C.; Contempora Fabrics, Lumberton, N.C.; Carolina Cotton Works and Parkdale Mills both located in Gaffney, S.C.; and closed the tour with a stop at American & Efird, Mount Holly, N.C.

The tour included 23 executives, managers and staff from Academy Sports & Outdoors, Columbia Sportswear Co., Full Beauty Brands, Haggar Clothing Co., Lacoste, Patagonia, Superior Uniform Group, Target and VF Corp.

Comments from tour participants included:

“We loved it! It was an awesome learning opportunity that we could have without spending the money of going to Asia! Beneficial for all. Great idea — thanks for making it happen!”

“I was blown away. It was nothing like I expected when I walked in the door. I wasn’t expecting all of the automation. It was just amazing. And the cleanliness — everything just seemed so perfect.”

“I think Parkdale is the Tesla of yarn spinning. They are so automated – and clean. When I talked with my manager about this trip, he said, ‘you’re going to visit textile mills. Don’t wear your nice shoes. Wear some old shoes that you can throw away because it’s going to be dirty.’ And I was really, really surprised.”

“It’s been a great opportunity on a couple of different fronts. One of them is the amount of information we’re getting. When you’re working with these vendors from your desk, the mechanics of how these things get made is still an abstract concept. But being able to come here and seeing the machinery and the people behind it, that makes a big difference. The other part is the kind of face-to-face relationships we’re building, not just with these companies but also with these other retailers and brands from all around the country. You start talking to them and you realize that we all have the same challenges.”

“The ability to network with individuals from throughout the industry was been good. It’s a very non-competitive thing. We talk about the same challenges that we all have in our businesses that we can collectively work on and fix. So there were ideas that I have heard for different issues that are going on.”

“I love it, I love it, I love it! I cannot say enough about this. This is an incredible experience. I wish they were doing things like this when I was in school. To be able to see everything you talk about is wonderful. It’s good to meet these folks and to hear their perspective. It’s completely eye opening.”

“We have mills in the States that are capable of producing serious amounts of fabric for us, which will allow us to eliminate some of these turn times. Customers want things now and fast turn times are required, so we have options here. And I love the fact that these companies we’re visiting are sustainably sourcing their raw materials and producing their goods. Plus, these plants are immaculately clean. And I was really surprised at how automated these plants are, too.”

“It’s been a great visit at every stop. It’s great to see the industry alive and well and vibrant and growing. It’s good to see these people get exposed to it. They don’t know how yarn or fabric is made. The U.S. is a great place to manufacture things. It’s reliable, and that means a lot, too. Reliability will generate speed. I think it’s a huge advantage, and more people need to know it’s here.”

“Wow! I’m not normally speechless but I’m close to it this week. Technology and automation, efficiency and cleanliness are all alive and well in U.S. manufacturing but I have to say the most impressive thing about the week was the people. Passionate, knowledgeable, open-minded, flexible, caring and extremely hard-working people. Every facility we visited was growing, already running three shifts nearly every day of the year, and struggling to recruit.”

The single objective of this tour was to educate brands and retailers on steps in the production of a garment starting at fiber, then yarn, knitting and finishing focused on the United States, the Carolinas, the supply chain as well as innovations, investment, jobs, networking and more.

To AAPN, it is as though an event like this has been in the making for years. It built on AAPN’s annual conferences, leadership forums, sourcing executive roundtables, regional conferences, regional summits, foreign delegations, the Carolinas solo tour; and even supply chain meetings hosted by AAPN factory members.

At every stop, we were met by the company’s CEO and staff. We worked most closely with Ron Roach at Contempora. Now we can apply this format to future tours. In fact, as Roach said after the event: “There are really two different educations — education on the details as to how things are made and education on how things get done. My focus was always on how things get made with the goal in mind of teaching, but certainly in all of this is the bigger picture of trust, speed, and ownership. Really nothing happens unless all three are present”.

Posted April 16, 2017

Source: Americas Apparel Producers’ Network’s (AAPN)

AFFOA Partners With MIT-Venture Mentoring Service (MIT-VMS) To Launch A Program For Entrepreneurs With A Passion For Advanced Fabrics

CAMBRIDGE, Mass. — April 10, 2018 — Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA) announced today that it has partnered with MIT-Venture Mentoring Service (MIT-VMS) to launch the Advanced Fabric Entrepreneurship Program (AFEP). The first 24 venture teams have been selected to join the program, with the goal of starting innovative advanced fabric businesses in the United States.

AFFOA’s mission is to catalyze a domestic manufacturing-based revolution, converting traditional fibers, yarns, and textiles into highly sophisticated, integrated and networked devices and systems, facilitating the transformation of the textile industry into a value-added, high-tech industry. Recognizing that entrepreneurs and start-ups are a crucial part of any technology revolution and growing economy, AFFOA has partnered with MIT-VMS to launch this year-long program aimed at supporting entrepreneurs and providing them with the foundation necessary for commercial launch of an innovative fabric-based venture.

The program aims to lower the barrier to innovation and commercialization in the advanced functional fabric space. The training and support offered to the fabric entrepreneurs builds on 17 years of experience that MIT-VMS has had supporting hundreds of ventures and start-ups. The program seeks to develop fabric entrepreneurs by combining IP, knowledge and entrepreneurship from universities, rapid prototyping through AFFOA’s Fabric Innovation Network (FIN), consumer insights, and funding from industry and resources from public and private sectors in order to accelerate product and business model innovation in Mass. and across the country.

Posted April 15, 2017

Source: AFFOA

Linen, Uniform And Facility Services Customers Credited For Environmental Friendliness

ALEXANDRIA, Va. — April 13, 2018 — U.S. Clean Green certified laundries are marking Earth Day 2018 (April 22) by commending the 250,000+ businesses across the nation that use such certified operations for linen, uniform and facility services.

Selecting a Clean Green certified company reflects concern for maximizing sustainability in a business supply chain. Private- and public-sector organizations who choose such a provider are learning that how their reusable textiles are supplied, laundered and maintained is a factor in their environmental impact.

Clean Green operations use a third party (TRSA) to verify their conservation practices and quantify their compliance with water and energy use thresholds.

Laundered, reusable linens, uniforms, towels, mats and other products provided by the linen, uniform and facility services industry to enhance businesses’ image and provide clean, safe environments for their employees and patrons. Most Americans benefit from the industry at least once per week, either at work or by patronizing restaurants, healthcare facilities, hotels and other retail and service establishments.

Nearly 50 of the industry’s companies are Clean Green certified, serving business customers from more than 150 locations combined nationwide. These launderers work with customers to connect the certification to their efforts to minimize their carbon footprint. Certified operators report to TRSA that customers and prospects ask them about green laundry initiatives. These include environmentally friendly wash chemistry, water reuse and recycling, recapturing heat from hot water headed down the drain and operating efficient delivery routes.

“They are far more likely to inquire about the sum of environmentally friendly practices as opposed to the parts,” observes TRSA President and CEO Joseph Ricci of the industry’s customers. Many document their justification of purchase decisions, though, such as government agencies that profile the winners of contract bids. “Clean Green companies bidding for their work mention the certification in their sales promotion and these profiles reflect it.”

Linen and uniform services conserve water and energy best by using high-capacity, high-efficiency equipment, he pointed out, controlling expenses and thereby aiding efforts to keep service pricing under control. “It is the perfect sustainable business model. Business interests and environmental concerns align. Improving efficiencies reduces costs and reduces the impact on the environment,” Ricci says.

Based on the U.S. Census of the industry’s sales and a TRSA survey of member financial data, the association estimates that nearly 3 million businesses use the industry’s services. Clean Green companies are challenged to capture more of these industry customers. Their collective Earth Day 2018 campaign gives them an opportunity to highlight the extent to which their individual efficiencies have contributed to a nationwide movement. Publicizing their own gains around Earth Day can better qualify and quantify their environmental virtues to encourage detailed comparison with competitors’ efficiencies, Ricci noted.

Posted April 13, 2018

Source: TRSA

Techtextil North America 2018 Exhibitor Preview: DiloGroup

EBERBACH
, Germany — April 12, 2018 — DiloGroup — comprising DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau and DiloMachines and represented in the USA by Dilo Inc., Charlotte,N.C. — is a major supplier of complete lines for staple fiber nonwoven fabrics with an emphasis on needlepunch technology.

New equipment components are developed to improve web quality overall, optimize process economics by fiber saving and also increase line capacity and are relevant to all bonding techniques.

In recent times advances have been made in the areas of fiber opening/blending for longer staple fibers, carding to give increased versatility within one machine, crosslapping at higher web infeed speeds and needling at the critical first loom to give better control of bulky webs.

Process development is also considered important. Two examples are the compact line and the HyperTex concept.

In addition to wide needling lines for the economic production of large volumes for automotive and geotextile applications, DiloGroup offers a new compact line designed to make smaller quantities of high quality needlefelt as required for medical applications or when processing high value specialty fibers such as carbon for automotive/aeronautical and other uses.

HyperTex produces multilayer felts to increase fabric stiffness for applications such as roofing material, dust filter bags, geotextiles and composites. Using the scrim making machine of Ontec Automation GmbH a reinforcing layer of yarns or filaments is fed inline between two layers of web or preneedled batt. This structure which can also be limited to one fibrous layer is then bonded together at high speed using Hyperpunch needling technology.

These and other fibre processing and nonwoven fabric related topics can be discussed in detail with DiloGroup during Techtextil at our booth No. 2423.

Posted April 13, 2018

Source: DiloGroup

Saurer Spinning Solutions Premieres Zinser 72XL Linked With Autoconer X6 At ITM 2018

ÜBACH-PALENBERG, GERMANY — April 6, 2018 — At the ITM 2018 in Istanbul, Zinser and Schlafhorst presented its innovative linked winding solution for ring spinning to the global public for the first time. Saurer Spinning Solutions was represented in hall 3 with machines and services at booth 311B and with components at booth 303B.

Autoconer X6 – Flow into the future

With the new Autoconer X6, Schlafhorst is presenting a quantum leap in process automation to the global public at the ITM. The revolutionary Bobbin Cloud material flow system with intelligent data management ensures maximum flow rates and minimum personnel requirements. The Autoconer X6 opens up a new dimension of efficiency with smart technology: The new, E3-certified generation offers sensationally low resource consumption, palpable productivity advantages and even more ergonomic handling. With the Bobbin Cloud material flow system based on the latest RFID technology, the Autoconer X6 guarantees maximum process reliability thanks to clever, software-controlled material management.

Zinser 72XL ring spinning machine

The Zinser 72XL is a highly productive ring and compact spinning machine for large spinning mills which intend to increase their rate of return by making production particularly economical. The Zinser 72XL clearly shows its advantages in almost all applications: in ring and compact yarns of any fineness as well as in fancy and special yarns. Equipped with up to 2,016 high-speed spindles, the Zinser 72XL reduces production costs by up to 11% and the required floor space by up to 22%.

Rotor spinning – Highly productive with a view to the future

Thanks to its single spinning position technology, achieving previously unattained rotor speeds of up to 180,000 rpm and up to 720 spinning positions, the Autocoro 9 delivers highly productive technical superiority. At the same time, intelligently automated processes and lean maintenance reduce maintenance costs by up to 60% and energy consumption by up to 25%.

The new semi-automatic BD 7 machine is also in a league of its own. It offers convincing performance with all package sizes up to 320 mm diameter due to cross-wound packages in Autocoro quality. The BD 7 reduces spinning costs and increases profitability with energy consumption savings up to 10% and rapid take-off speeds of 230 m/min for all machine lengths.

Components for the best yarn quality

With more than 80 years of market leadership in textile machine components in the area of spinning, today Texparts is able to offer you the basis for the production of high-quality staple fibre yarns. The PK 2630 SE weighting arm series for ring spinning machines is the most versatile on the market and, together with Accotex cots and aprons as drafting system, offers the optimum solution for all yarn types in the short staple fibre range. Accotex offers a wide range of cot hardness to meet all customer needs.

Saurer is also presenting components from Temco, Daytex and Fibervision. The brands are technology leaders in their respective sectors and offer high-quality solutions for the processing and monitoring of filament fibres and yarns.

SUN – SERVICE UNLIMITED – Competent service for our customers

The Saurer service station in the middle of the pulsating textile district of Kahramanmaraş is comprehensively equipped and offers customers there service on their doorstep: 60 trained members of staff are on hand to look after all of the Turkish customers’ needs. Thanks to the expanded spare parts warehouse, they can now immediately supply the spinning mills with genuine spare parts if need be. On the Autocoro 8 rotor spinning machine installed there, our team of experts produces sample spinnings directly on site. Saurer has further expanded its service network with the service station in Kahramanmaraş. 20 service stations now offer customers worldwide service with lightning-fast response times and unique features, such as the unprecedented Life Cycle Innovation Management Program.

Posted April 13, 2018

Source: Saurer  Group

United States Air Force Selects Med-Eng EOD 10 Bomb Suit To Protect Its Explosive Ordnance Disposal Teams

OGDENSBURG, N.Y. — April 12, 2018 —  Med-Eng®, a brand of The Safariland Group, today announced it has been awarded a five-year Indefinite Delivery Indefinite Quantity (IDIQ) contract to provide the United States Air Force (USAF) with the Med-Eng EOD® 10 bomb suit to protect personnel conducting Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) operations. The USAF selected the EOD 10 suit and accessories through a competitive solicitation process that required meeting the new National Institute of Justice Standard 0117.01 (NIJ Standard) for protection against blast, fragmentation, impact and heat, among many other demanding factors. Under the contract, which has a maximum value of $15 million, the USAF may procure up to 305 EOD 10 bomb suits during the five-year term.

“Med-Eng is honored to provide equipment that will help protect the lives of the United States Air Force’s EOD teams as they carry out critical, dangerous and life-saving missions,” said Rob Reynolds, vice president, general manager, Med-Eng. “Selecting Med-Eng and our EOD 10 suit demonstrates the USAF’s confidence in our ability to meet the evolving threats and operational requirements facing our military EOD operators and public safety bomb technicians in even the harshest conditions.”

The EOD 10 bomb suit is certified to the NIJ Standard and meets or exceeds the USAF’s rigorous criteria. This NIJ Standard focuses on six crucial areas — fragmentation, impact, flame, some blast overpressure, optics, and ergonomics — that reconcile protection requirements with bomb technicians’ need for mobility, clear vision, and dexterity. Med-Eng is currently the only bomb suit manufacturer to meet the new NIJ Standard certification.

This sophisticated bomb suit ensemble provides an optimal balance between multi-threat blast protection and ergonomic flexibility. Its user-focused design features voice activation, integrated cooling and compatibility with Chemical & Biological protective equipment. It has also been extensively tested against threats representative of Improvised Explosive Devices (IEDs).

Fulfilment of the contract will support highly skilled manufacturing operations in Ogdensburg, New York, where Med-Eng produces bomb suits for all four branches of the U.S. Military, as well as for state and local law enforcement bomb squads. This facility currently manufactures the U.S. Army’s in-service Advanced Bomb Suit (ABS) and all other Med-Eng bomb suit models, which are widely used across the United States.

The EOD 10 bomb suit has been procured by military and public safety agencies in 28 countries and is currently in service worldwide.

Posted April 12, 2018

Source: The Safariland Group

April 2018: Textile Activity At A Glance

BFApril18

April 2018

The Last Stitch

McCraryNCTO Chairman Bill McCrary says the U.S. textile industry is resilient.

By Bill McCrary, former chairman, National Council of Textile Organizations; chairman and CEO, William Barnet & Son LLC

As an almost 50-year veteran of the U.S. textile sector and as a current industry CEO, I’m proud to say I work for a truly amazing industry.

During my tenure, I’ve seen the best and worst of times; and right now, I’m excited because the U.S. textile industry is healthy and growing. The recession of 2008-09 set us back, as it did many other industries. Since that time, however, we have experienced growth and then stability in output, investment and employment.

Besides amazing, if I had one other word to describe the U.S. textile industry, it would be resilient, as the story of my company, William Barnet & Son LLC, illustrates.

Founded in Albany, New York, in 1898, Barnet’s guiding principles are safety, quality, productivity, cost, and customer satisfaction. The company is proud of its 120 years of continuous business, remaining privately-owned, and keeping continuity of leadership within the family from generation-to-generation.

Initially a wool reprocessor, Barnet’s roots are in recycling post-consumer by-products back into processable fiber for a second life. The company moved south to Spartanburg, South Carolina, in the early 1960s when there was great growth in synthetics. Because of the company’s varied capabilities, Barnet began contract manufacturing for major chemical companies, and later began a significant trading business covering all generic types of fibers, yarns and polymers worldwide.

Today, Barnet has a global footprint, with operations in the Americas, Europe, and Asia producing a wide variety of world-class recycled and first-grade products. The company also does contract manufacturing and has a fiber trading and distribution business.

Like Barnet, the resilience of the U.S. textile industry is amazing. We are survivors. We are creative. We have great leadership and wonderful loyal associates in the industry. Just as importantly, we enjoy what we do and take pride in the diverse customer base we serve.

We are an industry in balance with respect to supply and demand. The U.S. textile sector is vertically integrated and can make and supply almost any textile product to compete with any other country in the world … but we do it right here in the United States with guaranteed quality and on time delivery. As case in point, the U.S. textile production chain had $78 billion in shipments and more than $28 billion in exports in 2017.

In fact, the dynamic within the U.S. textile industry is so strong that we are attracting foreign direct investment from all over the world — Mexico, the European Union, Japan and even China. It is clear major offshore competitors now view U.S. textiles positively and as a good destination for investment. The opportunities are to be prudent managers of these recent investments, both domestic and foreign, and to continue to grow our sector in  the largest consuming nation in the world.

Moreover, the industry is critical to America’s national security because we manufacture more than 8,000 different textile products used by our soldiers, sailors and airmen in executing their mission to keep our country safe.

Drilling down further, we are amazingly innovative as we continue to differentiate ourselves from the lower cost basic commodity fibers, yarns, and fabrics made in other parts of the world.

A great example innovation is the formation of the Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA) institute in 2016. A $320 million U.S. Department of Defense, state, and privately-funded collaborative effort headquartered near the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, AFFOA is focused on commercializing the next generation of smart textiles. Backpacks that communicate; and washable, stretchable clothes that can power electronic devices and monitor your health will be hitting the market in upcoming years.

U.S. textiles also are amazingly adaptable. Textiles are not just apparel. Textiles are an industry that supports and supplies various sectors fundamental to our standard of living, including food, clothing and shelter. Each sector is constantly trying and finding ways to make products using differentiated materials. Carbon fiber is seeing especially explosive growth, with more than $2 billion in capital investment announced in Alabama and South Carolina in recent years. These products are finding applications in the automotive market, aviation, and a host of other areas.

Likewise, there are many new fiber, yarn, and fabric products today that have characteristics unheard of years ago … flame retardant and fire resistant, higher strength, antimicrobial, recycled … the list is long.

Another area where U.S. textiles have made amazing strides is in sustainability. As well as being good stewards of the environment, in certain instances, there are also significant cost savings to be had when recycled materials are used. I have always said if quality is good, and cost is equal to or less than first grade raw materials, then there is a bright future for recycled materials. Considering that most companies are now designing textile products with a circular lifecycle in mind, the latest recycling technologies are helping to make U.S. textiles more sustainable and competitive than ever.

Finally, the U.S. textile industry has been amazingly engaged in an intensive outreach effort in Washington, and with the public.

Thanks in part to the NCTO-led “We Make Amazing” industry rebranding campaign and the enhanced relationships built with policymakers, we have seen an improved perspective from our government. We are grateful that key federal officials now acknowledge the importance of our industry, and to a reasonable degree, cooperate with us on critical policy issues, including NAFTA modernization and other trade matters. It is clear globalization and expanded trade must benefit all parties, or it doesn’t work. In that light, NCTO is working closely with the U.S. government to strike a proper balance with respect to textiles.

As my 2017-18 term as NCTO chairman concludes, I’m excited about going to work tomorrow in the world’s most amazing, resilient textile industry. We have a bright, prosperous future and I can’t wait to see things unfold.


Editor’s Note: This article appears online at TextileWorld.com courtesy of the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) as part of the “American Textiles: We Make Amazing™” campaign. NCTO is a trade association representing U.S. textile manufacturing. Please visit ncto.org to learn more about NCTO, the industry and the campaign.


April 2018

Digitalization Of The Automotive Cutting Value Chain

TW Special Report

The automotive market is undergoing a period of great change. Global demand for light vehicles is increasing, but at slower rates than seen in previous years, and this is resulting in ever greater competition between carmakers. At the same time, the technological capabilities that can be offered are advancing rapidly. Areas such as autonomous driving, connectivity, interior comfort and the customization of vehicles in line with personal taste are becoming key ways that manufacturers can differentiate themselves and win market share. Indeed, automotive supplier Lear, recently unveiled a new biometric ‘smart’ seat, that tracks a driver’s health indicators.1

These trends are having a knock-on effect for suppliers. For original equipment manufacturers (OEMs), being able to satisfy diverse consumer preferences is now considered more of a success factor than getting a vehicle to production faster than the competition. Across the automotive supply chain — and especially for those involved in the production of car seats and interiors — a growing emphasis on interior styling and luxury components has created new challenges that are further compounded by increasing cost pressures.

Although news coverage about the automotive industry tends to focus on such innovations as ‘driverless’ cars and ‘intelligent’ vehicles, one of the most far-reaching changes occurring is this trend towards personalization: how automotive manufacturers are managing to make mass-produced items unique. Not only are manufacturers increasing the number of models they are offering but also the options available to a consumer per model. The Vauxhall Adam is a case in point: consumers can have more than 1 million different combinations when they order the car.2

To cope with these challenges, suppliers will need to re-evaluate and improve their production processes. Within this context, the integration of smart solutions and services, and the replacement of production tools that are incompatible with connected factory concepts, will be vital. The combination of Software as a Service (SaaS) with the cloud is already opening up new horizons for innovation. Factories remain at the heart of the value chain. But Industry 4.0 is revolutionizing mass production, allowing more and more large-scale, personalized — and profitable — manufacturing, with greater quality and no added costs or delays.

As customer expectations reach new levels, it is especially important that suppliers in the automotive cutting value chain ramp up their transformation, adopting the technologies and services shaping Industry 4.0. For years, OEMs and suppliers alike have used foam and frames to develop patterns for producing seat covers in material or leather. The automotive industry was among the first to use sophisticated 3D computer-aided design (CAD) programs for the design and development of vehicles. But it has taken time for this technology to be used extensively for seat covers. Although 80 percent of fabric seating and interiors are currently cut digitally, only 10 percent of leather seats are cut using this method.3 The majority of suppliers of automotive leather seating still rely heavily on manual cutting equipment, such as die and roller presses.

To gain the agility and flexibility to remain relevant and competitive in a market that is dictating more change, variants, and faster reaction times, close cooperation between OEMs and suppliers is necessary. For if even one aspect of the process fails to provide sufficient flexibility, speed to market and consistent quality, then the entire chain will be impacted.

In such a complicated and fast-moving market, only the most adaptable and innovative companies will succeed. The solutions that form part of the Industry 4.0 framework will help give suppliers the capacity to adapt and thrive in this new environment.

Introduction

The ability to configure the most flexible, efficient and standardized mega-platform has been a key evolutionary stage of mass car production. These global manufacturing systems have helped to generate enormous economies of scale, reduce development costs, improve times to market, and have allowed multiple cars to be built on one line.

However, as consumer demand in the automotive sector changes and the number of models and variants produced increases rapidly, these mega-platforms will have to become ever more sophisticated and flexible.

The digitalization and automation of end-to-end (E2E) manufacturing processes offers real and immediate benefits to automotive suppliers, allowing them to absorb variability in demand and meet new requirements faster. This white paper will review the chief trends that are impacting these companies, and the process and technology improvements that will enable them to succeed in the changing market.

Main Trends Impacting Automotive Suppliers

Automotive suppliers must create products that satisfy the end-user demand for novelty and personalization while extracting the most possible value from their materials. Flexibility will be key to their success — a factor with strong implications in terms of their entire seating and interior development processes. Below we look at the three main trends impacting automotive suppliers.

1. Evolving Consumer Tastes And Behavior

Despite ongoing price sensitivity, consumers have come to expect high-end features in their vehicles. Recent trends in business models, such as the ‘freemium’ model in telecommunications, have contributed to consumer expectations of getting more for less. Materials and features that in the past would have been rolled out in premium segment cars and eventually trickled down to the volume segments are now being installed as standard on mass-market models in the medium and economy car segments. However, customers don’t just want luxury for less. They also want a unique product that showcases their identity and fulfills their needs.

In 2015, 114 new vehicle models were launched, up from 73 in 2011. That number is expected to increase to 137 in 2019, representing an 87 percent increase over the past eight years.4

As a result, the industry is seeing traditional car segments, such as hatchbacks and sedans, fragmenting into an increasing number of niches. Manufacturers are also offering more ways to customize a vehicle in order to give the customer the impression of having a personalized product rather than a mass-produced one. With models like the Fiat 500 or BMW MINI, buyers can entirely customize their cars.

LectraA2. Interiors As Differentiators

“The interior experience is how you’ll differentiate the car and satisfy consumers.”5 — Dave Muyres, Executive Director, Global Product Innovation for Johnson Controls International (JCI)

The increase in new vehicle models and re-designs also brings the growing importance of interiors into focus for suppliers, as shorter vehicle life cycles mean that these must be refreshed more frequently. Consumers place a high importance on interiors as well.

According to the 2016 edition of the JD Powers Initial Quality Survey, almost a fifth of new vehicle shoppers decided against a purchase due to the quality of the interior.6

This trend for personalized luxury is only likely to accelerate. With a forecast that at least 80 percent of the task of driving will be automated by the year 2025, drivers will have more time for doing something other than driving. As interiors become increasingly important as differentiators, we will see more manufacturers implementing changes such as swivel chairs, deep-form seating and high-tech textiles. Indeed, just adding ventilated seats can have a significant impact on customer satisfaction.6

3. An Expanding Choice Of Materials

Changes are also becoming evident in the materials used to build interiors. Sustainable textiles are already being incorporated into cars such as the BMW i3, which has seat covers made entirely of recycled fibers. Advances in available color choices, fabric combinations, texture, and resistance to UV rays have enabled the use of lightweight composites both inside and outside the vehicle.

The global automotive composite materials market will reach $11.6 billion by 2020, almost
double the market value in 2015.7

Smart textiles embedded with digital components will start to replace heavier components in the vehicle, such as weight sensors. Leather is also not immune to this phenomenon. Leather demand in vehicles is increasing, but so too is the variety of leathers; comfort, durability, color, and textures are all evolving, meaning that again more choices are available to the consumer.

This trend is only going to accelerate as automakers focus on an increasing number of limited and low volume models, resulting in an ever greater need for flexibility for suppliers.

LectraBMain Challenges Facing Automotive Suppliers

So what exactly does this changing automotive landscape and the evolving expectations of consumers mean for the automotive supply chain?

We have identified three major challenges.

1. Pressure To Reduce Costs

As OEMs face increasing cost pressure from end-buyers, and rising manufacturing costs, they pass some of this burden on to Tier 1 suppliers by imposing strict annual cost-reduction programs, obliging them to absorb inflation, engineering and design costs. This pressure is in turn passed on to Tier 2 and Tier 3 suppliers.

The top cost drivers in the production and sale of an automobile are raw materials (47 percent) and labor (21 percent).8

Fluctuations and increases in raw material costs greatly affect automakers. For suppliers, frequent design changes and customization mean more variety in the number and types of pieces required.

This may result in a lower volume of material orders, which typically means higher purchasing costs per unit.

Rising wages in emerging economies, particularly China, are contributing to increased operational costs. China’s labor costs in the manufacturing sector increased 80 percent between 2010 and 2015.9

Suppliers are also feeling the cost pressure through the automakers’ preference that they locate production facilities and R&D in emerging markets so that they will be closer to assembly plants. With rapidly rising local wages and decreasing availability of skilled talent, this not only poses a cost issue but adds a layer of complexity for suppliers to manage.

2. Increasingly Fierce Competition Among Suppliers

Suppliers also feel pressured by OEM scrutiny of material consumption. In order to ensure that they are getting the best price possible, OEMs require transparency on order data and figures in their agreements with suppliers. This has resulted in pressure on seat suppliers to reduce their material consumption as it represents the largest percentage of the cost, representing, on average, 70 percent of the trim cover. At the same time, material utilization has become more complex due to design and customization trends.

Raw material consumption is so important that some Tier 1 companies are moving to acquire fabric and leather producers in order to increase their control of the value chain.

To meet increasing demands for lower prices while innovating with new textiles, optimizing material consumption is essential and one of the best ways to do this is at the design stage.

LectraC3. Greater Production Complexity To Manage

Consumers want models to be renewed more often and with more variety so they have greater choice. This requires the development and production cycle for car seats and interiors to be much more agile than is currently the case. Complexity is also leading some OEMs to relinquish responsibilities in development, sourcing, and planning. The role of automotive suppliers is expanding beyond being just parts providers.

Carmakers are relying on suppliers to provide them with innovative products that will help differentiate their offer. With the increase in new model launches and more complex designs, OEMs are becoming increasingly dependent on their interior parts suppliers to help them meet this challenge, and are incorporating them into the production development and innovation process.

Suppliers are under increasing pressure to demonstrate that they can deliver the required design, quality, service, and price that can allow an OEM to differentiate their brand.

LectraDCompeting In A Fast-Moving Environment: Industry 4.0

To address these challenges, companies within the automotive cutting value chain will have to undergo a transformation to a new industrial model based on digitalization, connectivity and automation.

Disruptive digital technologies are emerging that are able to help progressive OEMs and suppliers cope with new market demands. 3D software packages can develop the flat patterns for seat covers directly from 3D models without the need for the frame and foam component to be completed first. This allows OEMs and suppliers to develop the seat cover or material covering for an interior part concurrently with the prototyping of the frame, foam, or plastic components.

LectraEBecause the digital value chain is based on CAD files and virtual prototyping, with pattern files that can be put into production in hours, patterns can be created directly from 3D Standard Trim Outline (STO) models. They can then be fine-tuned for production, visually simulated for aesthetics, and cut within a few hours to determine the model that will make an interior distinctive to end-users. As part of the process, automated nesting software can optimize material utilization while computer numeric control (CNC) cutting heads can ensure patterns are cut with very high accuracy.

Although the number of fabric seats cut using an automated solution has risen dramatically in the last 15 years, the leather seat market has lagged behind, due partly to the specific constraints of working with leather. Indeed, more than 90 percent of hides that are cut for the automotive industry are still cut using manual die presses.10 Now, however, technology is sufficiently advanced that the automated cutting of leather is also a compelling option. Advances in cloud services will allow further optimization of cutting room performance for each type of manufacturing and material.


Taking the step towards Industry 4.0 with Lectra

France’s Faurecia, one of the world’s leading automotive OEMs, is betting on advanced manufacturing for its operations. In December 2016, its Automotive Seating group renewed a global agreement that makes Lectra the sole supplier of high-ply fabric-cutting solutions to Faurecia. Standardization of the highest-performance cutting system available on the market is one of the key benefits of this longterm partnership.

With 10 years’ experience in the industrial Internet of Things, combined with its expertise in software solutions to automate and optimize the cutting chain, Lectra is in a formidable position to help customers step into this new industrial age.

“More than ever, we have key challenges in terms of flexibility, agility and productivity – producing more while reducing costs. Our fabric and leather cutting processes have become strategic in reaching these goals. Faurecia’s ’digital enterprise’ project is set to transform working practices in virtually every aspect of our organization, and the cutting room, with smart automation and predictive maintenance, is no exception.” – Jean-Luc Tété, Vice-President Comfort & Trim division, Faurecia Automotive Seating.11


 

LectraFGoing Digital: The 5 Key Advantages Of A Digital Automotive Cutting Value Chain

1. Material And Cost Savings
Using a design-to-cost approach gives designers the ability to anticipate early, and ultimately control, material cost consumption. But when design ideas are explored and reworked, material consumption is usually only roughly estimated.

By employing modern 3D design software that creates flat patterns, suppliers can accurately estimate material consumption. Working early designs can then be adjusted to fit the target cost. This process allows patterns and cost to be determined working from STO files before foam and frames are delivered. In fact, it reverses the normal development cycle so the ideal cover can be designed, and then the foam and frame can be engineered to fit the cover.

Designers are able to study the material characteristics to detect possible quality issues in advance of manufacturing. These smart software applications can actually help designers determine the most appropriate position for seams to reduce stress and compression to make better fitting and longer lasting seat covers.

Designers can often find material savings as high as 15 percent by reworking the design of seats and their associated patterns, as well as detecting possible quality and build issues at the development stage of an interior.12

Meanwhile, at the cutting stage, nesting software can make sure there is optimal utilization of the fabric or leather hide. This can result in both material and time savings as manual nesting can be a complicated and time-consuming process.

Optimizing the industrial process also means ensuring that production teams are seamlessly provided with accurate technical specifications. A software solution will automatically convert pattern data into sewing plans and assembly instructions. It will also generate all the technical specifications needed for manufacturing, such as bills of material (BOMs), bills of labor (BOLs) and nesting instructions. Quickly delivering such a package to the cutting room not only speeds up the industrialization process, but since all related information is automatically updated when there are any modifications to pattern pieces, it also reduces costly mistakes.

2. Improved Cutting Quality

A well controlled, well maintained CNC system can provide an extremely high level of cut quality, in addition to generating up to 5 percent in material savings.12 Such a system naturally reduces the waste of unnecessary recuts, but another factor to consider is that a high-quality cutter also means less buffer space required around pieces. Hundreds of thousands of dollars per year can be saved by reducing the gap between pieces by just 3 millimeters.

One of the advantages of an automated process is that it can offer consistent quality. This is something that is especially difficult to achieve in a leather cutting room, for example, which might have hundreds of workers evaluating different hides and preparing dies. However, software can optimize the utilization of the patterns on the hide, while at the same time working to optimize the balance of cut parts required for an order, which is a very difficult job to do manually. The accuracy and precision of CNC cutting heads can be very high, achieving accuracy below +/- 1 mm quite easily, even when cutting with no buffer between patterns.

Meanwhile, to avoid costly errors in the cutting room, suppliers should choose cutting solutions that incorporate anti-error functions, such as blade breakage detection, incorrect drill diameter detection, and corrupted or incomplete cutting files. Blade breakage detection is important because if the operator does not notice the breakage, there is a risk that the conveyor may advance to an uncut marker with potential consequences of loss of time and fabric and risk of head damage. To avoid the risk that an entire batch is rejected, incorrect drill diameter detection is essential. It automatically checks the diameter according to defined marker parameters at every spread and at every tool change.

Belgian automotive supplier ECA recently moved from die presses to an automated leather cutting approach, leading to an immediate efficiency improvement of 10 percent.12

3. Greater Flexibility

A one-size-fits-all approach that doesn’t take into account variations in market size and growth, as well as the diversity of consumer needs, hinders successful growth strategies. Automotive companies must have the ability to adapt their products specifically for different regions, markets and segments. The increasing consumer demand for customization necessitates the ability to provide a greater variety of parts, and produce smaller orders with more frequent deliveries.

Flexibility in operations and processes is necessary to anticipate market changes, keep up with rapidly evolving consumer needs, and adjust production as necessary. The supply chain must also be able to adapt its production processes to support shorter development cycles and the potential for last-minute changes. In order to achieve these objectives, it is necessary to create a digitalized value chain that uses flexible tools and processes based on real-time information.

Using the most innovative technology gives the supply chain the ability to handle the varying demands of customers and to relay the required data across the entire value chain instantaneously. In a context where the ability to accept last-minute orders or changes are a key factor for competitiveness, agility is a must.

Italian tannery and automotive leather interiors supplier Mario Levi implemented automated cutting, subsequently reporting a 20-percent increase in productivity and 3-4-percent increase in hide yield.13

4. Faster Program Start-Up

As mentioned, OEMs and suppliers have traditionally developed seat covers using foam and frames as ‘mannequins’, over which they would drape material to develop patterns. The development of production patterns directly from 3D STO models can greatly increase start-up times time, as engineers no longer have to wait for the foam and frame prototypes before they can begin the design process. According to Lectra, this can save between 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the complexity of the design.


Case Study: Adient

“Being a flexible supplier means we can more easily win contracts. With the fabric-cutting solutions we have today, we can easily go through all of the different options that weren’t available 20 years ago.” — Willy van Looy, Global Director, Advanced Manufacturing Engineering, Cut & Sew Operations, Adient.

To improve its competitive position in a changing market and win new business, automotive seating company Adient — formerly part of Johnson Controls — required a solution that would allow the company to:
— Deliver a wider variety of options
— Meet tight production schedules
— Reduce fabric costs

Automation
Adient’s executive team decided to undertake a highly strategic project to transform its fabric cutting value chain by replacing all the die presses in the company’s European plants with automated CNC cutting equipment.

As early adopters of VectorAuto, Adient was already familiar with the performance and productivity of Lectra’s high-ply, automotive fabric-cutting equipment. To obtain an even higher level of performance, Adient decided to also equip its cutting rooms with VectorAuto iX9®, Lectra’s latest top of-the-line fabric cutting solution. The iX9 expands upon the capabilities of the previous generation; its high-performance cutting head and the ability to cut during conveyer advance guarantee even higher throughput. Lean-compliant poka yoke and visual management systems, such as automatic drill diameter identification and video-assisted spread position control, further maximize production output and efficiency.

Partnership
As well as introducing state-of-the-art equipment, Adient was also seeking a flexible partner that would understand the company’s unique challenges. “A transformation project of this size requires a significant investment in time and money,” recalls Willy van Looy. “We needed a stable partner that we knew would be with us over the long term and would have the financial capability to scale up the production when needed. The open and transparent collaboration between our teams fostered a sharing of expertise, experience, and best practices that was instrumental in the success of this project.”

Responsiveness
With the help of Lectra’s expertise and technology, Adient now has a more agile cutting platform that helps it to maintain its position as a market leader and supports its worldwide business growth strategy. As the complexity of car seat manufacturing continues to increase, with the introduction of new materials and material embellishments, Adient can efficiently respond to customer needs and requests, change quickly from one platform to another, manage product change processes more accurately and easily adapt to customers’ planning processes.


 

Meanwhile, the use of CNC systems can also decrease program start-up times. Die cavities can take anywhere from 6 to 14 weeks to produce and deliver, as they often have to be reworked until they are correct. The cost of retooling is also high, with a new set of dies costing upwards of €1m to produce.14 Using an automated cutting process can significantly reduce production time, increase efficiency, and reduce retooling costs.

5. Reduced Risk To Operators
A cutting room can be staffed by hundreds of people. Each operator working on a manual press cutting table lifts an average of 1.5 to 2 tons of steel per day, often while leaning over plastic die boards more than 3 meters wide. Reaching the center of a hide with a heavy cavity in hand is no easy feat. With an automated leather cutter, lifting dies is no longer necessary. What’s more, an integrated conveyor system simplifies hide loading and offloading. This can help reduce the risk of injury to operators in the cutting room, providing a safer working environment.

Conclusion

The pace of change in the automotive industry will continue unabated, at least for the foreseeable future. Those suppliers who are unwilling or unable to change will not survive. Those who respond with agility and innovation stand to profit with larger deals as the current market grows.

To ensure a place in the automotive industry of tomorrow, suppliers must evaluate their longterm strategic priorities. The ability to streamline processes, optimize performance and plan for production flexibility is essential as cost pressure, focus on fabric innovation and consumption, and increased competition between suppliers will remain firmly embedded features in the automotive supplier’s landscape.

With a digitalized automotive cutting value chain, suppliers will best equip themselves to navigate the future landscape in which product development time takes mere weeks, design options are explored virtually in 3D to eliminate production of multiple prototypes, and quality remains consistently high.


References:

1 Automotive News, 21 November 2015, ‘Lear’s ‘smart’ bid to revolutionize the car seat.’ Available at: http://www.autonews.com/article/20151221/OEM06/312219938/lears-smart-bid-to-revolutionize-the-car-seat. Accessed January 2017.

2 Vauxhall Press Room, 7 November 2012, ‘Vauxhall’s Adam Breaks Mould – Over a Million Times’. Available at: http://media.vauxhall.co.uk/media/gb/en/vauxhall/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/gb/en/2012/vauxhall/07_11_vauxhall_adam_mould.html. Accessed January 2017.

3 Lectra Internal Data. Date of Preparation January 2017.

4 IHS Markit, 2016, ‘Foresight Reigns …Protecting Margins Amid Plateauing Markets, Stiffer Regulations and Shifting Supply Chains.’ Accessed January 2017.

5 Wards Auto, 21 May 2014, ‘Autonomous Vehicle Interiors Offer Opportunities for Differentiation, Innovation.’ Available at: http://wardsauto.com/suppliers/autonomous-vehicle-interiors-offer-opportunitiesdifferentiation-innovation. Accessed January 2017

6 JD Power, 25 August 2016, ‘Seats Critical to Vehicle Experience, Customer Loyalty, J.D. Power Study Finds.’ Available at: http://www.jdpower.com/press-releases/jd-power-2016-seat-quality-and-satisfactionstudy. Accessed January 2017.

7 Markets and Markets, October 2016, ‘Composite Materials Market for Automotive by Material Type.’ Available at: http://www.marketsandmarkets.com/Market-Reports/automotive-composite-materialsmarket-6114278.html. Accessed January 2017.

8 Market Realist, 5 Feb 2015, ‘Raw materials – the biggest cost driver in the auto industry.’ Available at: http://marketrealist.com/2015/02/raw-materials-biggest-cost-driver-auto-industry/. Accessed January 2017.

9 Trading Economics, January 2017, ‘China Average Yearly Wages In Manufacturing.’ Available at: http://www.tradingeconomics.com/china/wages-in-manufacturing. Accessed January 2017.

10 Lectra Internal Data. Date of Preparation January 2017.

11 Faurecia, ‘The digital enterprise initiative.’ Available at: http://www.faurecia.com/en/about-us/partner-of-choice/digital-enterprise-initiative. Accessed April 2017.

12 Lectra Internal Data. Date of Preparation January 2017.

13 Lectra Internal Data. Date of Preparation January 2017.

14 Lectra Internal Data. Date of Preparation January 2017.


 

Source: Lectra

Sponsors