Changes in international trade law always seem to have a destabilizing effect on textile industry growth because they bring risk into investment decisions.
Investments over the past three years have made the headlines with both domestic and foreign companies investing in the United States. The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) has called attention to capital expenditures for textile and apparel production totaling $2.4 billion in 2016, the latest year for which data are available.
The thrust of the trade initiative is for fairness and reciprocity in trade deals.
The industry has had some successes with agreements like the North America Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). As William V. McCrary Jr., outgoing NCTO chairman, recently noted: “America’s most important trading relationship is NAFTA, a pillar upon which the U.S.-Western Hemisphere textile supply chain is built. At almost $12 billion combined, Mexico and Canada are the U.S. textile industry’s largest export markets. (See “2018 State Of The U.S. Textile Industry,” TW, May/June 2018).
“U.S. exports of fiber, yarns, fabrics, made-ups, and apparel were $28.6 billion in 2017,” McCrary continued. “This is nearly a 9-percent increase in export performance over 2016. Shipments to NAFTA and CAFTA-DR countries accounted for 54 percent of all U.S. textile supply chain exports.”
But trade with China is a different story. The recent U.S. tariffs on Chinese goods under Section 301 of the Trade Act of 1974, and China’s retaliation is of concern. U.S. Trade Representative Robert Lighthizer recently released a statement saying: “…in response to unfair Chinese practices, the United States began imposing tariffs of 25 percent on approximately $34 billion worth of Chinese imports. … The products targeted by the tariffs are those that benefit from China’s industrial policy and forced technology transfer practices.
“China has since retaliated against the United States by imposing tariffs on $34 billion in U.S. exports to China, and threatening tariffs on another $16 billion. It did this without any international legal basis or justification.
“As a result of China’s retaliation and failure to change its practices, the president has ordered USTR to begin the process of imposing tariffs of 10 percent on an additional $200 billion of Chinese imports.”
This sounds like a serious approach to reshaping the trade relationship with China, and there is a lot at stake.
“The Trump administration is right to confront China’s unfair trade practices. Section 301 tariffs show the world that countries who cheat the United States on trade will be held accountable,” said NCTO President and CEO Auggie Tantillo in response to Lighthizer’s comments. “With the inclusion of virtually all fiber, yarn and fabric tariff lines, NCTO’s response will be on a line-by-line basis….”
The U.S. textile industry has consistently found ways to rebound from trade law changes — think China’s World Trade Organization accession, dealing with NAFTA and then CAFTA-DR. It’s never easy but the promise of reshaping U.S. trade relationships couldn’t be more critical.
Spinners and industry insiders say they are optimistic that the continuing surge in orders over the past few months will continue into the third quarter of the year.
“I am comfortable, at least at the moment, about where we are and how the next few months look,” said one multi-national spinner. “We are getting good week-to-week results, and we’ve finally been able to establish a pipeline. It’s not as long as we would like, but it is better than what we had. I think we are all beginning to accept that shorter orders are going to become more and more common.”
Another spinner commented: “It is still hard for customers to get positions in ring spinning. Over the years, as we reduced capacity to be better aligned with demand, we, perhaps, reduced our ring-spinning capacity a bit too much, especially when several of the big players closed in the early part of the decade.”
New Ring Spinning Online
There is at least some relief in sight for ring spinning capacity. Keer America Corp. began ring spinning on two frames in late June. By year’s end, the company is expected to be operating 75,000 spindles on new Rieter and Saurer Zinser ring-spinning frames.
“Keer America is unbelievably proud to be part of this revival,” a Keer spokesman said in an interview. “We want nothing more than to take full advantage of American-grown cotton and partner with the American workforce in order to produce the highest quality of spinning yarn.”
Keer’s second South Carolina plant is expected to have an annual yarn capacity of 40 million pounds, with a count range from Ne 6 to Ne 40 for both carded and combed yarns.
Other than ring-spun combed and carded cotton yarns, spinners report that specialty yarns are still moving well. “They’ve been solid all year, and continue to account for a lot of volume,” said one spinner.
Overall, spinners have reported an increased interest in cotton yarns across the board this year. But that doesn’t mean blends have suffered. “There are still a lot of customers who moved to blends when cotton prices went crazy a few years ago, and a lot of them decided they were happy and stuck with the blends,” said one spinner.
Into The Future
Despite the resurgence in the U.S. industry over the past few years, industry experts and observers say that there is still plenty of room for improvement. “It’s all about research and development,” said one industry observer. “Opportunities abound for those companies willing to invest in developing new applications for yarns, new yarn properties or new solutions for old problems.”
One spinner said: “The ability to innovate is key to future growth, especially for technical and specialty applications.” Added another executive: “We have been working to further develop better fire-retardant products, for example. And there are new opportunities in high-performance sportswear, medical applications and other areas. As economies and industries mature — especially in Asian countries where low-cost production is now an asset — the entire dynamics of the industry are likely to change. The selling point will change from “what does it cost?” to “what can it do?”
Trade Wars
In the continuing escalation of back-and-forth tariff increases between the United States and China, the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) is asking that products from the fiber/textile/apparel complex be included. “NCTO is convinced that the Trump administration’s Section 301 tariffs would be far more effective if Chinese apparel and sewn non-apparel end products were included in the 301 list because that would benefit the entire U.S. textile and apparel supply chain,” said NCTO President Auggie Tantillo, noting that these products were not included on the U.S. government’s latest proposed tariff list.
Cotton Prices
For the week ending July 12, the price for the base quality of cotton (color 41, leaf 4, staple 34, mike 35-36 and 43-49, strength 27.0-28.9, uniformity 81.0-81.9) in the seven designated markets measured by the USDA averaged 83.34 cents per pound. The weekly average was up from 80.42 the previous week, but up from 65.52 cents reported the corresponding period a year ago. The ICE October settlement prices ended the week at 89.24cents, compared to 82.71 cents the previous week.
AAPN’s Mike Todaro chats with Jesus Canahuati, general manager, Honduras-based Elcatex
By Mike Todaro
The Atlanta-based Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN) is hosting the Apparel Summit of the Americas in San Pedro Sula, Honduras, November 27-29, 2018. This supply chain event will include a program of speakers and plenty of networking opportunities as well as tours of brand new state-of-the-art mills built to address the need for agile manufacturing.
Honduras has a country development program, known as Honduras 2020. This private sector initiative is complemented by the public sector and was developed to grow the country both socially and economically. Honduras 2020 focuses on six strategic areas of the economy, one of which is textiles and apparel. One of the goals for the textile sector is to increase annual exports to $7.4 billion and add 200,000 jobs to the country’s existing 150,000 jobs by the year 2020. Another goal is to surpass Indonesia and Mexico to become the United States’ fifth most important apparel provider.
Honduran textile companies are ramping up synthetics output in Honduras. One such company is Elcatex, a company dedicated to producing knit fabrics, cut parts and full-package programs. Founded in 1984, the 500,000-square-foot mill has a capacity of 2 million pounds per week. In addition to its textile manufacturing investments, Elcatex operates Latin America’s largest above-ground photovoltaic generator that has a capacity of 7.5 megawatts, and also uses other forms of renewable energy including biomass.
Ahead of the Apparel Summit of the Americas in Honduras, AAPN’s Mike Todaro chatted with Jesus Canahuati, general manager, Elcatex, about his company and the Honduras 2020 initiative.
Mike Todaro: Why are you working in this industry?
Jesus Canahuati: I was born into this industry. In 1959, my father, Juan Canahuati, and his wife traveled to the United States where they met the brand Lovable. That same year, he obtained the line’s distribution rights in Honduras.
In 1965, he took the first step from distribution to actual production in what would become his own factory, Lovable of Honduras. Seeing the need for raw material within the country, in 1984 he created the company Elásticos Centroamericanos y Textiles, or ELCATEX.
I was born, raised and went to high school here in Honduras. I was fortunate to be accepted into the Georgia Institute of Technology in Atlanta where I earned my engineering degree in 1987. When I returned to Honduras, my father encouraged me to build a small textile company within Elcatex in order to supply the fabric needed in his sewing facilities.
Todaro: Can you name a person who has had a tremendous impact on you as a leader?
Canahuati: My father, of course. On a trip to Asia, he saw the need to make the industrial parks come true in Honduras.
In 1989, with the law of Industrial Processing Zones, he created the first industrial park in the country, Zip Choloma S.A. In 1990, he signed the contract and proceeded to build the fourth building of Zip Choloma, where the brand HBI remains to date. In 1992, ELCATEX moved to Choloma, where it currently produces 1.6 million pounds of fabric a week.
Todaro: How did you build your knowledge of the U.S. market?
Canahuati: Our customer base today includes highly recognized companies such as JC Penney, SanMar, Nordstrom, Dickies and HBI. We manufacture a range of products including basic T-shirts, underwear programs, fleece sweatshirts with hoods and zippers, and polo pique shirts for men, women and children. Honduras has grown into an epicenter of high-volume production of blanks and underwear for the giants of that market in the US. They arrived with a full package business model and we have learned from working beside them and supplying them for decades.
Today, Honduras has very impressive trade numbers:
Honduras apparel exports to the United States are up 13 percent in Jan 2018 over the last year, same period;
U.S. yarn exports to Honduras up 2 percent for 2017 over 2016;
Demand is way up, investor traffic robust; and
Sourcing volumes are increasing.
Todaro: How do you compete as a supply chain? What links of the chain are you involved in, or are collocated in-country?
Canahuati: We are able to produce full package programs today for polo shirts, t-shirts, briefs and boxers. We perform the knitting dyeing, finishing, printing, cutting, sewing, packaging and logistic entirely within our enterprise.
Just within Elcatex, we maintain 99 sewing lines producing 78,000 dozen garments per week. The input fabric comes from the 500 knitting machines we operate, producing 2 million pounds a week. Dyeing is done in our 43 dyeing machines.
Another example is Stretchline. We invested in this Sri Lanka-based company, which is the world’s largest and only branded narrow fabric manufacturer. This 150-year-old company supports major fashion brands in eight countries on three continents. This gives Honduras true global brand power.
Todaro: What on-going investments are being made in your supply chain?
Canahuati: There are two answers to that question. First let me answer on behalf of our country. Our Honduras 2020 project seeks to generate 600,000 jobs and sharply boost exports by expanding and adding value to the key textiles, manufacturing, tourism, and business services sectors. The development plan was partly drafted by global consultant McKinsey. It is a country development program, which emerges as a transformational initiative from the private sector, being complemented and strengthened by the public sector in order to foster the socio-economic growth of our country.
The plan is completely comprehensive — public and private sector funding programs in education; housing; infrastructure; energy; construction; port expansion; everything. There is no national plan like it in this entire hemisphere.
When opened, the $73 million United Textiles of America (Unitexa) man-made yarn plant will have a capacity of more than 25,000 tons per year.
Within the Elcatex enterprise, we are building a new $73 million synthetic yarn production plant we have named United Textiles of America (Unitexa) Co. Several of the largest textile groups in the region have joined forces to create this new synthetic yarn production plant that will add a capacity of more than 25,000 tons per year.
This will be the first production plant of its size and nature in Central America opening Honduras’ doors to a new textile segment, attracting more specialized manufacturing industries, especially in activewear. The draw texturized yarn will then be used for the production of synthetic garments, sportswear, clothing resistant to stain, among others.
Because of the need for a greater specialization in the production of synthetic yarn, Unitexa will continuously seek to develop the personnel it employs, generating a total of 250 direct jobs and approximately 300 indirect jobs.
Todaro: In addition to your proximity to the United States, what are the other factors in your speed to market, such as front-end pre-production infrastructure through to production, logistics and transit times?
Canahuati: Many buyers are consolidating their accounts because of the recession. Our customers want to place their orders with fewer contractors to reduce manufacturing costs and still get good prices, fast delivery and great quality. This presents an interesting opportunity that Honduran textile companies can exploit because of other advantages the country offers.
Honduras’ advantages are apparent when we compete with Pakistan and other Asian countries. In addition to proximity to the U.S. market, which reduces the time and cost of product delivery, Honduras offers competitive wages and just-in-time delivery, an inventory strategy technique much in demand these days. Orders placed for goods produced in Honduras take 12 weeks to reach U.S. stores, compared with four months for orders placed with companies in China and Pakistan. Honduran textile products account for almost 6 percent of the market share in the United States currently.
These advantages include:
Vertical integration;
Free trade agreements with the United States, Canada, European Union and the Central American region; and
Strategic location — only three days away from the most important ports in the southeast coast of the United States.
Todaro: How do you compete on costs?
Canahuati: We compete on costs by owning the costs. We’ve made significant investments in yarn spinning, textile facilities, apparel sewing plants, Industrial Free Zones, a biomass steam facility, hydroelectric facility, and thermal cogeneration plant.
Several years ago, we got a program out of the blue. A brand member of the AAPN contacted the organization for help bringing a high needle program back from Asia. We got that business.
After three months of production, AAPN asked the brand member how it was going. Their answer was that sourcing from Honduras was easier, better, faster and even cheaper because there was less product in the pipeline.
Todaro: How easy is it to do business with your company?
Canahuati: Elcatex started operations in 1984 with the objective of becoming an integrated textile center that would offer products of high quality to both national and international markets. Every step we made from the start was to get it right from the start. We invested, we studied, we partnered, we innovated and above all else we asked questions.
We’re in the same time zone as our U.S. customers, we speak English and we were educated in the United States. Our values, cultures, management beliefs and leadership values are the same as those held in the United States. Since Honduras is one of the most bi-lingual nations in this hemisphere, we understand our suppliers, our customers and our industry.
Todaro: Give examples of leadership in social compliance and sustainability?
Canahuati: We are WRAP certified and also certified by Hohenstein as a company that fulfills the specific requirements for product class II of Oeko-Tex Standard 100.
We have from the start been innovative, which is why we are a pioneer in the region for energy generation thru renewable process, like the biomass and water recycling process better known as Dyeclean, an innovative process that helps to reduce water consumption by up to 80 percent and chemical consumption by up to 50 percent.
We were able to reduce 30,000 tons of carbon dioxide per year with the Biomass Steam Generation facility, which produces 30 tons of steam per hour. We have also been a key player on three hydroelectric projects with a capacity of 8 megawatts with a future expansion to 26 megawatts. Today, I am the CEO of two new companies — Honduran Green Power Corporation and Sula Valley Biogas — built to generate 43 megawatts of energy with biomass and 5 megawatts with biogas.
On the social front, we contribute to the social housing program of the Honduran government, with the project of building 2,000 houses, and plans to expand in the future. In fact, as you drive past our biomass energy plant on a new paved two-lane road, you quickly arrive at a development of 1,500 new houses. These are bought by our workers under very favorable terms.
My parents instilled in me a strong belief in social responsibility and community work. I have served on the Board of Directors of the Saint Vincent’s Foundation for more than 23 years. This foundation manages various centers that protect the livelihood of orphans, youth, seniors, terminally ill patients and recovering alcoholics. Furthermore, the foundation provides education and physical health services to low income families through a school and a clinic.
Todaro: Where does Honduras stand in risk assessment?
Canahuati: Honduras is no different than the United States or any other country caught in the emotions of populism. Still, Honduras follows its rule of law. For example, during the presidential crisis on September 2009, when a former president attempted to take over his former office, the entire country — including the legislature, courts, government and even his own party — followed our laws.
The best way to stop migration and deter crime is work. Nothing stops a bullet like a job and Honduras 2020’s goal is to create 600,000 jobs, 200,000 of them in our textile/ apparel sector. Clearly, we are well on our way.
Todaro: When it’s all over, how do you want to be remembered?
Canahuati: My driving force is my family, having the complete support of my wife and our five lovely children. Professionally, I want to be known as a visionary who saw an opportunity and raised a commitment to be the best in this hemisphere.
I want to be known as someone who helped give a broad range of options to our customers, outperforming the competition in quality, technology, production and export of the same, and with better working conditions and quality of life for our staff.
In fact, every goal of Honduras 2020 is a goal of mine and our company.
Editor’s Note: Mike Todaro is the managing director of the Atlanta-based Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN). AAPN is a private sector, non-profit, members-only apparel industry business network of more than 600 company owners and senior executives from 200 companies across the apparel supply chain.
Photo courtesy of Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center, Dallas
Industrial fabrics, geosynthetics and composites industries will be represented at collocated trade shows in Dallas this October.
TW Special Report
Organized by the Roseville, Minn.-based Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI), IFAI Expo 2018 will collocate with CAMX and GeoDallas this fall in Dallas. To be held October 15-18 at the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center, the conference promises access to a combined show floor featuring more than 800 total exhibitors, as well as networking opportunities with other specialty fabrics, advanced textiles, composites, and shade and weather professionals at a variety of informal events during the expo. More than 15,000 people are expected to attend the combined event.
IFAI Expo serves all aspects of the industry, and highlights segments targeted to specific markets including specialty fabrics, advanced textiles, smart fabrics, shade and weather protection, military, marine, geosynthetics, and fabrics structures, among other markets.
“We’re excited to be in Dallas this year for IFAI Expo 2018 where we will be co-locating with CAMX, the composites and advanced materials Expo,” said Steve Schiffman, president and CEO, IFAI. “Attendees will enjoy a great value and have access to all six exhibit halls, an expanded array of market segments and over 800 exhibitors for one price. Our Pre-Expo Conference will feature six different tracks and over 60 training courses.”
IFAI has revamped the Opening Reception event. This year, the offsite party to be held at the 2616 Commerce Event Center — a unique tri-level venue with rooftop space offering skyline views — from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. on Tuesday, October 16, will feature drinks, appetizer stations and live entertainment including the IFAI’s member band Hangin’ by a Thread. Tickets will be required for entry. Full registrations and GeoDallas registrations include a ticket. Otherwise, tickets can be purchased by members for $35 and non-members for $85. IFAI is offering an early bird discount of $10 off tickets purchased by September 17.
Show Floor Activities
This year’s Expo features a show floor packed with exhibitors as well equipment workshops and education demonstrations, campfire sessions, Advanced Textiles Lounge, IFAI Hub/Membership Lounge, Fabric Sourcing Center, Testing Demo Zone and Industry Awards Gallery.
The 2018 expo will feature five areas of education on the show floor: Campfire: Shade; Campfire: Specialty; Campfire: Advanced Textiles; Testing Q&A; and e-Textiles Workshop and Discussions. Organizers report the show floor education opportunities are a great way to pick up business-building tips, learn from experts and share best practices.
Mentor Meetings return to IFAI Expo 2018. Both attendees and exhibitors may schedule 30-minute appointments in advance to meet with independent experts during the show to seek confidential advice.
The IFAI Expo Testing Program in collaboration with North Carolina State University’s (NC State’s) College of Textiles will again be available to expo attendees on and off the show floor. The Pre-Expo Conference features a testing curriculum designed to educate on the methodology and interpretation of standard test procedures. Participants who complete the Testing Track at the conference in addition to lab requirements in the Testing Demo Zone on the show floor will earn a Textile Testing Certificate, which can be applied toward NC State’s Textile Technology Certificate Program.
The Testing Demo Zone will gather the latest-generation testing equipment from exhibitors. Attendees are invited to watch live demonstrations and videos, as well as participate in question and answer sessions and the Intro to Testing Seminar to learn more about textile testing, current research, product development and product claims. Those who complete the Intro to Testing Seminar as well as additional lab requirements at the Testing Zone can earn an Intro to Testing Certificate, which can be applied toward a NC State Textile Technology Certificate Program.
A new feature at IFAI Expo 2018 is the Manufacturing for Good demonstration booth. Attendees will be able to watch equipment demonstrations and follow the manufacturing process as duffel bags are made on the show floor. This live charity event supports the Bridge North Texas, a multi-service center for people experiencing homelessness. IFAI member companies will donate the materials as well as manufacturing expertise to make the bags, which will be used by people served by The Bridge.
For a complete list of all the events and happenings surrounding the 4-day expo, please see the “Schedule at a Glance.”
Educational Events, Awards
This year’s Expo features an extensive educational preshow conference schedule. In contrast to past years, the Pre-Expo Conference will only be held Monday from 8 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. No conference sessions will occur once the show floor opens on Tuesday.
There are 48 total sessions to choose from with topics ranging from shade, marine, sewing, automation and green practices, to advancements in knitting and business operations. Each 50-minute session is structured as a lecture, panel or discussion, and will focus on case studies, best practices, how tos, research and industry issues. Participants may move between session rooms throughout the day and are encouraged to tailor their own curriculum. Full registration is required to participate in the Pre-Expo Conference.
IFAI will again recognize new and innovative products and services found on the show floor with the Show Stopper program. The annual International Achievement Awards (IAA) — judged by industry experts, editors, architects, educators and design professionals — will honor innovation, technical skill and design excellence. In addition, the four Student Design Competitions sponsored by four IFAI divisions will recognize student talent in Advanced Textiles, Awning and Canopy, Fabric Graphics and Fabric Structures. The Industrial Fabrics Foundation also will present Innovation Awards in six categories with one achievement honored with a top overall prize.
Keynote Address
This year’s keynote speaker will be featured Tuesday, October 16, 2018, from 8:30-9:45 a.m. prior to the show floor opening. All exhibitors and visitors are invited to attend Mark Scharenbroich’s talk titled, “Nice Bike — Making Connections That Move People.” According to IFAI, Scharenbroich will focus on how to effectively make meaningful connections in both professional and personal situations through three strong actions: Acknowledge, honor and connect.
Collocated Events
IFAI’s GeoDallas Conference is a two-day regional conference featuring short courses, panel discussions, case studies and training lectures for geotechnical, civil and environmental engineers. Participants will earn 14 professional development hours, and also gain access to the Geosynthetics Pavilion show floor.
CAMX — the Composites and Advanced Materials Expo, is produced by the American Composites Manufacturers Association (ACMA) and the Society for the Advancement of Material and Process Engineering (SAMPE). The show bills itself as the “event that connects and advances the world’s composites and advanced materials communities — the go-to place for products, solutions, networking and advanced industry thinking.”
CAMX features a conference program with more than 300 conference and technical sessions as well as a poster session. The conference is arranged into eight tracks: Additive Manufacturing; Advances in Materials; Business, Regulatory & Workforce Development; Design, Analysis & Simulation; Green & Sustainability; Manufacturing and Processing Technologies; Market Applications; Non-Destructive Evaluation and Testing.
The three collocated events offer something for everyone involved in the industrial, geosynthetic and composites industries. Dallas is the place to be this October!
Dave Rousse (left), INDA president, and Dr. Bernd Kunze, CEO, Reifenhäuser Reicofil, at RISE® 2017
INDA’s RISE® conference focuses on connecting emerging technologies with real-world applications.
TW Special Report
RISE® — The Research, Innovation & Science For Engineered Fabrics Conference, will be held September 11-13, 2018, at the Raleigh Marriott City Center hotel, Raleigh, N.C. The conference, now in its eighth year and organized by the Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), focuses on innovations in global plastics extrusion, multifunctional fabric technologies, innovative apparel manufacturing and disruptive engineered materials with the aim of connecting innovations with real-world applications.
INDA staff assembled the RISE Distinguished Advisory Committee — a group of experts from scientific and technical arenas — who combined their insights and knowledge of the industry to curate a conference schedule full of cutting edge and innovative developments in engineered fabrics, nonwovens and related applications. This year’s advisory committee is comprised of some 12 industry experts and is chaired by Davis Lee, senior managing scientist, Exponent. Topics to be covered at the conference are broad and include biomimicry, e-standards and regulations, microfibers in the marine environment, reflecting fibers for nonwoven applications, and nanofibrillated cellulose for improved filter media, among other topics.
Speakers at this year’s event include: Jeffrey Bates, University of Utah; John Bradshaw, Shaw Industries; Seth Casden, Hologenix LLC; Alasdair Carmichael, National Association for PET Container Resources; Katherine McDonnell, Gingko Bioworks Inc.; Molly Morse, Mango Materials; Gurminder Minhas, Performance BioFilaments Inc.; Jeff Dugan, Fiber Innovation Technology; Gisela Goldhalm, Lenzing AG; and INDA’s own Director of Market Research and Statistics Brad Kalil, among many speakers.
The event’s keynote speaker is Mark Vitner, managing director and senior economist, Wells Fargo. His “Market Dynamics, North American Economic Forecast,” presentation will give attendees some insight into the current economic climate in the United States.
“The RISE conference offers a clear and unique view of opportunities for the engineered fabrics industry,” said Dr. Jim Loftus, director of Education and Technical Affairs, INDA. “This event provides a predictive glimpse of the technology and areas where developers and researchers in our industry may not typically look. The simple goal is to present new ideas, experiences and concepts that attendees may never see elsewhere.”
INDA also will announce the winner of the annual RISE Innovation Award, which recognizes “innovation in areas and on the periphery of the nonwovens industry which utilizes advanced science and engineering principles to develop unique or intricate solutions to advance the usage of nonwovens.” Finalists — selected from disposable and durable product categories including raw material advances, advances in process or manufacturing technologies, new products, or application development — will present their technologies to attendees on the first day of the conference. Attendees will vote on a winner, which will be announced on Thursday afternoon.
“The RISE Conference embraces INDA’s mission to stimulate and recognize innovation in engineered materials,” said Dave Rousse, president, INDA. “We organize content for like-minded, forward-thinking technology professionals looking for a new approach to a material science challenge. This is THE conference for technology scouts and new product innovators looking to advance their material science toolkit, and is an event not to be missed.”
For more information about RISE® — The Research, Innovation & Science For Engineered Fabrics Conference, please visit inda.org/events/rise18.
Techtextil North America has come along way in this, its 15th edition, and shared the show floor with an equally successful fourth Texprocess Americas
TW Special Report
With great interest, the 15th edition of Techtextil North America and fourth Texprocess Americas recently took place at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta. Atlanta-based organizer Messe Frankfurt Inc. reports the events gathered a total of 567 Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas exhibitors representing 32 countries. Total attendance grew to 8,292, roughly a 4-percent increase over the 2016 events.
There were high level attendees and exhibitors on the show floor. Booth traffic and engagement was heavy and steady. This was consistent with the history of Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas in Atlanta. For those in technical textiles and apparel manufacturing, it is a convenient location to view the latest technology, technical textiles, nonwovens, textile machinery, sewn products, equipment, and to participate in a great networking opportunities.
Visitor Perspective
“I enjoyed the show, and it was encouraging to see so many companies taking part,” said Anderson Warlick, vice chairman and CEO, Parkdale. “For Parkdale, the show offers an opportunity to find greater innovation.”
Miguel Ferrer, president, Kiko Sewing Machine Co., is a visitor who often attends the show each year. “The show never ceases to amaze me,” Ferrer said. “There is always something new to learn about and a new technology to see. I really like the Made in America movement this year, as we are seeing a lot of jeans factories opening up in Los Angeles again.”
The Exhibitor Perspective
“This show is a great opportunity for us to showcase our new technology,” said Daniella Ambrogi, vice president of marketing, Lectra. “This year has been a busy show and we’ve had a great turnout of visitors. We are happy to be here.” Lectra introduced its new Cutting Room 4.0 made-to-order solution with an official unveiling and ribbon cutting ceremony. Texprocess attendees were treated to the first public demonstration of the cloud-connected digital cutting solution.
“Being featured as the premier provider for digital textile printing, in the context of Gerber Technology’s ambitious micro-factory exhibit for end-to-end production of on-demand goods, offered an outstanding opportunity to demonstrate that what some call ‘the future’ of apparel, home goods, and accessories, is very much reality today,” said Ryan Kurek, marketing director at Kornit Digital North America. “We spoke with decorators, creators, and manufacturers of all types and sizes, and found a market highly receptive to this technology’s ability to deliver at the speed of e-commerce, under one roof, sustainably, efficiently, and using a single process and ink set for multiple fabrics.”
All in all, response from exhibitors, and visitors both domestic and international, was positive. The show floor included country pavilions featuring suppliers from Italy, Texclubtec, Belgium, China, Taiwan, High-Tex from Germany, and SEAMS Made in USA.
“It was clear that everyone, both visitors and exhibitors, could feel the energy and excitement on the show floor,” said Dennis Smith, president and CEO, Messe Frankfurt Inc. “We are proud to serve as the platform for furthering the growth and development of the North American technical textile and sewn products industries. There is an immense amount of talent and innovation coming from the US, and Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas have become the premier events where professionals from all industries come to see the trends and technologies that are coming their way. We are truly grateful for the large network of exhibiting and visiting companies responsible for the growth of these two events, and we look forward to our continued success together, next in our 2019 edition of Techtextil North America in Raleigh, North Carolina, and then back in Atlanta for the 2020 co-located events.”
The 16th edition of Techtextil North America will take place February 26-28, 2019, in Raleigh.
Messe Frankfurt also has announced the 2020 Atlanta events will take place May 12-14, 2020, again at the Georgia World Congress Center.
Chateau Élan proved a draw for the 35th annual Outlook® Conference
TW Special Report
The Roseville, Minn.-based Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI) recently wrapped up the 35th annual Outlook® Conference, which was held at the Chateau Élan Winery & Resort in Braselton, Ga. The conference is co-organized by the Narrow Fabrics Institute (NFI) and United States Industrial Fabrics Institute (USIFI), both divisions of IFAI.
Market Trends, Useful Insights
The event again kicked off with a “Military Morning” presented by IFAI’s Military Division after positive feedback from attendees about last year’s inaugural Military Morning programming featuring military-focused topics. Conference participants learned about the intricacies of the Department of Defense’s budget, the mission and procurement procedures of the Defense Logistics Agency, as well as the key goals of the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research, Development & Engineering Center for outfitting the soldier of 2030 with the best uniforms and equipment. Other topics covered over the two days included an economic outlook, the innovation taking place at the Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA), the impact of supply and demand in the man-made fiber industry, a Washington update, and an overview of world energy markets. Bill Jackson, the U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles, was unable to attend the event in person because he was involved in the ongoing North America Free Trade Agreement negotiations. However, Jackson was able to address attendees the second morning via video call.
Keynote speaker Ross Bernstein — an author of almost 50 sport books — ended the conference proceedings before attendees headed out to play a round of golf or tour the Chateau Élan winery.
New USIFI Chair
During the meeting, retiring USIFI Chair Ted Anderson stepped down, and Jim Egan, Graniteville Specialty Fabrics, was installed as the institute’s new chair. Patti Bates, Glen Raven Technical Fabrics, was named USIFI vice chair.
Industry Support
The event was well supported by the industry with some 23 company sponsors contributing to the success of the event including Highland Industries, Glen Raven, Gehring-Tricot, Herculite, Milliken, Jakob Müller, Nexis Fibers, Unifi, Graniteville Specialty Fabrics, and Brawer Bros., among the supporters.
“This year’s IFAI Outlook was one of the best ever,” said Lloyd Wood, conference speaker, and president, Lloyd Wood Group. “Networking opportunities were abundant and the conference featured outstanding presentations on defense policy, marketing and other important topics. The U.S. textile industry has bright future thanks to its leadership and innovation.”
“The 2018 Outlook Conference was a huge success,” said Steve Schiffman, president and CEO, IFAI. “Attendance reached a five-year high and we had a lot of positive feedback on the quality of the content on the future of the U.S. textile industry. We’re looking forward to the 2019 Outlook Conference at the Ritz-Carlton Reynolds in Greensboro, Ga., May 6-8, 2019.”
The theme of Colombiatex was “Abre los Ojos”, or “Open Your Eyes.” Photos by INEXMODA.
The most important Colombian textile fair reaffirmed its position as the business center of the textile industry.
By Dr. Virgilio L. González, Textiles Panamericanos Correspondent
Celebrating 30 years of uninterrupted editions, with around $356 million in business prospects, Colombiatex 2018 closed satisfactorily after its three day show held in Medellín. Organizer — the Institute for Export and Fashion (Inexmoda), Medellín, Colombia — reported some 22,653 visitors participated in the event, an increase of 3 percent over 2017 numbers.
The show attracted 579 exhibitors — 346 were Colombia-based companies mainly from Antioquia, Cundinamarca and the Cauca Valley provinces. The remaining 233 exhibitors were mainly from Brazil, India and Spain, their participation 21 percent, 19 percent and 10 percent respectively. Approximately 14,023 buyers from more than 60 countries were also at the show. Some 87 percent were Colombian and 13 percent from other countries. Of the international buyers, Ecuador, Mexico and the United States were of significance, with participation of 69 percent, 13 percent and 4 percent respectively.
The INVAMER Survey Co. indicated that businesses opportunities at Colombiatex 2018 were noted at 36 percent for textile projects, 28 percent for machinery, 19 percent for raw materials and 7 percent for other supplies.
The fair was opened by Daniel Arango, vice minister of Trade, Industry and Tourism of Colombia; Luis Pérez Gutiérrez, Governor of the Department of Antioquia; Federico Gutiérrez, mayor of Medellín; Felipe Jaramillo, president of ProColombia; Juliana Villegas Restrepo, vice president of Exports of Pro-Colombia; the ambassador of Brazil in Colombia Julio Glinternick Bitelli; the ambassadors of Italy and India in Colombia; and Carlos Eduardo Botero Hoyos, executive president of Inexmoda.
During the press conference, Carlos Eduardo Botero Hoyos, CEO of Inexmoda (center), answered questions together with a group of industry experts.
Colombian President Juan Manuel Santos sent a written message to attendants emphasizing the importance of the Colombian textile industry, recognizing the opportunity to find new business, and anticipating that the work between government and private industry will help grow this important industrial sector.
Some of the key points Santos mentioned were:
Continuing to fight against smuggling and unfair competition;
Helping the textile industry continue its progress, taking advantage of free trade treaties with other countries;
Transforming knowledge and technology by means of of machinery updates;
Bridging the gap between universities and companies;
Deleting tax barriers; and
Connecting well established companies with small and medium-sized companies to attract international partners.
Luis Pérez Gutiérrez also reported important progress in the construction of a highway from Medellín to the coast. With this improvement set for 2019, the port of Urabá in the Pacific Ocean will be ready to receive raw materials and export Colombian goods to different markets.
Inexmoda President Botero Hoyos indicated that the textile sector could tackle future challenges by:
Viewing uncertainty as an opportunity, and finding solutions where they are not expected.
Investing in knowledge, to become leaders. Through its different centers, Inexmoda helps companies to improve their individual strategies so they can update and renew to improve competitiveness.
Making technology the pillar of business. In this respect, the Intelligent Factory booth was present at Colombiatex, through the initiative of Inn Solution, showing modern machinery and technology for improved competitiveness.
INVISTA presented its innovative fabrics in a stand always in motion, featuring models wearing collections from different brands.
Another important launch at Colombiatex 2018, was the alliance between Inexmoda and New York City-based global trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops. Three fashion trends were shown at Colombiatex in the Spring-Summer 2018 season, created by Fashion Snoops.
The Graphic Market also was important at Colombiatex, where 32 graphic artists exhibited their work. In this space, they showcased the latest trends in fonts, colors and textures.
Pro Colombia Helped 331 International Buyers Attend Colombiatex
Colombiatex 2018 was well supported. Brazil was an honored guest, and Pro Colombia — a government agency in charge of promoting exports, tourism and foreign investment — invited 331 buyers from 24 countries to the trade show.
According to a number of visitors, the fashion industry supply chain in Colombia offers high added value, high quality raw materials, quick turn capability, and is creative and innovative. No doubt, internationalization is a big opportunity for growth.
Exhibitors
At Colombiatex 2018, 579 companies showed their products. Most innovations related to sustainability and reduced water usage — including sublimation printing, and the use of lasers and other techniques making the use of chemicals largely reduced.
Other highlights included the production of technical and intelligent clothing.
Academic Program
The Pavilion of Knowledge hosted at Inexmoda by the University Pontificia Bolivariana (UPB), again was seen at Colombiatex 2018. This space confirmed the importance of generating places for learning. Some 7,750 visitors and 6,740 users via streaming participated in the interesting talks held in the Metropolitan Theatre of Medellín. Topics included business models, marketing, technology and sustainability — fundamental pillars to competition.
Luz Adriana Naranjo, transformation director, Inexmoda, said: “It is important that industry manufacturers keep up to date to satisfy the true needs of consumers, having a perspective that goes back to the companies and managers to be competitive for the future. To delegates that are in this academic space, created by the UPB, we should give some strategic basis in order to train leaders, students and employers.”
Ramiro Arango, general manager of Didetexto, in his talk “Doing it in Colombia is worth it,” indicated that to create profitable and productive businesses, and to generate value, it is necessary to find a way to differentiate and compete in the market. “Colombia has a lot of competitive advantages in design such as professional creative teams and knowledge of the product and the consumer, hence, it should have quick answers and flexible processes.”
Ester Xicota, with his “Vision and strategies” presentation recognized sustainable innovation opportunities in the Colombian industry, offering his vision for defined strategies for action.
In its 30th year, Colombiatex fulfilled its aims, and provided a space for effective networking. All indications confirmed Colombiatex of the Américas continues to be a first class show.
ITA, ACIMIT At Colombiatex
In Colombia, through the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) it was possible to see the great interest of Italian suppliers wishing to expand their markets in Latin America.
The Italian Association of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT) also was present with a good number of stands at the 2018 edition of Colombiatex. Italy wishes to be one of the main suppliers of textile machinery in this area of the world.
ACIMIT is a private institution that brings together a vast majority of textile companies, and whose production represents 85 percent of the total production of Italian textile machinery, as well as some associated members such as consortiums, technical schools, technical publications and research centers.
Textile Machinery Promotion
The main purpose of ACIMIT is to promote the Italian textile machinery sector, and support its activity abroad through the latest and most advanced promotional media, continuously improving in its 70 years of existence.
Activities include organizing exhibitions, technical seminars, missions in Italy and abroad, most of them in collaboration with the Italian Trade Promotion Agency (ICE).
As is well known, Italy is a leading country in the production of textile machinery globally, and the level of its technology is considered one with the highest standards, even by its
competitors.
Italian textile machinery manufacturers cover the full spectrum of industrial needs such as spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and industrial laundries. They not only cover the high and innovative technology in textile machinery, but also everything related to obtaining a better final product that goes to the market.
In this way, ACIMIT members claim to offer a maximization of their operational flexibility to respond to the needs of their customers with highly specialized products. Creativity, sustainability, efficiency and quality are the main characteristics sought by Italians who manufacture textile machinery.
Italian Exports
In 2016, Italian textile production reached 2.7 billion euros, of which 85 percent were exported to more than 130 countries. Asia with 47 percent was the main export area, followed by other European countries with 35 percent, Latin America with 7 percent, North America with 8 percent, and Africa with 3 percent.
During the celebration of Colombiatex de las Américas 2018, Textiles Panamericanos met with several members of ITA and ACIMIT. From these conversations, it became apparent Italian companies have a great interest in expanding the use of Italian machinery in Latin America; to be involved in technical and commercial agreements leading to favorable exchanges for both regions; and want to support initiatives for improved technology transfers to Colombia and the rest of the region.
The interviewees strongly agree that Colombiatex de las Américas is an excellent resource as a trade fair, and hope that its continuous achievements contribute to the growth and progress of the textile industry.
Characteristics
According to ITA, this event contributes to industry knowledge about the strengths and characteristics of Italian textile machinery, such as:
• the high level of technology;
• flexibility and operational versatility of its products;
• excellent price/quality ratio;
• highly reliability and problem-free operation; and
• a close, continuous relationship with the textile and apparel industries.
In addition, safety and environmental investigations are constantly carried out to propose solutions, maintaining European and international standards at all times.
Redmond, Wash.-based Sensoria developed a smart sock that could monitor not only how fast and far a runner went, but also how well they run.
The medical field benefits from textile innovations, and the rapid development of sensor technology brings new products to the healthcare and wellness market.
TW Special Report
The textile news has presented a number of stories centered in and around the medical industry in recent months. Whether the news relates to implantables and grafts, coatings and additives for wellness and bacteria protection, or innovative uniform fabrics, the textile industry is playing a role in medical progress. One particular area of note is sensor technology. Rapid development is taking place in the sensor market, and many companies are developing smart textile products for medical and health-related applications.
Making Socks Smart
Recently, San Francisco-based health technology company Siren introduced Neurofabric™, a Diabetic Sock and Foot Monitoring System that features microsensors embedded directly into the fabric. Six sensors — three across the ball of the foot, one in the arch and one on the heel — continuously monitor foot temperature looking for variation.
According to the company, Siren Diabetic Socks continuously monitor foot temperature to help detect signs of inflammation, the precursor to diabetic foot ulcers. Monitoring foot temperature is clinically proven to be the most effective way of catching foot injuries, and is up to 87-percent more effective at preventing diabetic foot ulcers than standard diabetic foot care.
Neurofabric™, a Diabetic Sock and Foot Monitoring System developed by San Francisco-based Siren, features six microsensors that continuously monitor foot temperature, looking for variation.
The company reports that approximately 56 percent of diabetic foot ulcers become infected, and 20 percent of those people with infected foot wounds end up with some type of lower extremity amputation. More than 100,000 legs are lost to diabetes each year in the United States. Meanwhile, up to 80 percent of people with diabetes who have foot amputations pass away within five years.
The socks wearer can see the temperature of their feet instantly with the app and compare changes from day to day.
“We built this technology because foot ulcers are the most common, costly and deadly complication for people with diabetes, yet there was no way to continuously monitor for these massive problems,” said Ran Ma, CEO and co-founder of Siren. “Our Neurofabric has endless applications across healthcare, sports, military, and fashion, but it was obvious to us that solving this specific problem is where we had to start, because it impacts so many and can mean the difference between losing a limb or not.”
The socks are sold as part of a system, which is offered as a subscription that includes five pairs of new Siren Diabetic Socks shipped every six months, the Siren Companion App, and live customer support.
Siren Diabetic Socks feature:
Neurofabric™ — Seamlessly-integrated sensors that monitor foot temperature at six key points — the most effective method for determining foot health;
Comfortable fit — All socks are seamless and non-binding;
Machine-washability and don’t need charging; and
Moisture-wicking — Fabric removes moisture from the foot area to promote healthy skin.
Six months is the expected useful life of the embedded battery.
According to Siren, for people with diabetic neuropathy the socks look and feel just like a regular pair of socks and provide continuous, clinical-grade temperature monitoring and health tracking over time. All they have to do is put on their socks like they would any other day.
Printed Graphene Sensors
Newark, Del.-based W. L. Gore & Associates and Bonbouton, New York City, have entered into a joint development agreement “to explore material solutions in advanced sensor technology and enable practical smart fabrics for assistive apparel and digital health applications.”
Bonbouton — a manufacturer of inkjet-printed, low-cost graphene temperature sensors — licensed technology developed at the Stevens Institute of Technology, Hoboken, N.J. The company’s flexible and molecularly thin sensors made using graphene oxide (GO) can be used for monitoring skin temperature.
The Bonbouton-Gore partnership will initially focus its research on temperature sensing technology and “will lay a foundation for future applications of sensor technology and conductive inks in digital health, chronic care management and smart fabrics.” The companies will utilize the Gore Innovation Center and are equal partners. Gore’s Innovation Center houses a prototyping facility where various developers and corporations can innovate and collaborate, while Gore can move forward its mission to provide support and assistance for start-ups in the digital health arena.
“Our work with Gore, and specifically the Innovation Center, is an exciting development,” said Linh Le, CEO and founder, Bonbouton. “Its materials and expertise are what will allow us to improve on existing technology and take development to the next level. Gore is known for a science-backed approach to comfort and wearability. Coupled with its collaborative resources and exploratory mindset, this makes Gore a model partner.”
“Because of its extraordinary flexibility and thinness, we envision that ‘comfortable-to-wear’ graphene sensor arrays can be used for constant and wireless monitoring of a variety of pathophysiological developments,” Le said.
“We are thrilled to be working with Bonbouton to explore our combined potential, especially in applications where it can enhance quality of life for those with chronic conditions,” said Linda Elkins, co-leader, Gore Innovation Center. “The Gore Innovation Center offers a prototyping facility where startups, researchers, customers and corporations can collaborate and innovate.”
San Francisco-based Emglare introduced smart clothes designed with sensors for monitoring heartbeat as well as the electrical activity of the heart using electrocardiography (ECG).
Built-in ECG And Heart Rate
Recently San Francisco-based Emglare introduced smart clothes designed with sensors for monitoring heartbeat as well as the electrical activity of the heart using electrocardiography (ECG). Emglare’s smart clothes communicate directly with a mobile phone application where all monitored health information is made available.
Emglare’s first commercial product is the Emglare Heart mobile application, which is compatible with its smart clothes featuring built-in ECG and heart rate sensors. The clothing can be recharged directly using a wireless charger. The company initially has designed an undershirt and sports T-shirt for men, and a sports bra and regular bra for women. According to the company, the products are suitable for daily use because one of the its goals was “to produce smart clothes that are natural and comfortable even when worn all day.”
“Our goal is to create the best smart clothes in the world that are not only super smart but mainly comfortable and suitable for everyday wearing,” said Jifií Pastor, CEO and founder of Emglare. “Our products are developed by a group of specialists from different disciplines – healthcare, informatics and fashion industry.”
Sensoria has recently extended its sensor technology into the Sensoria Smart Running Shoe.
Sensoria For Health, Wellness
Several years ago, Redmond, Wash.-based Sensoria introduced a smart sock that could monitor not only how fast and far a runner went, but also how well they run. The right and left footed socks feature three sensors under the plantar area of the foot to detect foot pressure. The sensors are connected to conductive fibers in the sock that can relay data collected to an anklet that is connected to the sock’s cuff via a magnetic attachment. Sensoria reports the sock was designed to act as a textile circuit board. The lightweight anklet is activated when connected to the magnetic attachment and communicates continuously with a Sensoria mobile app using Bluetooth Smart. The company also makes upper garments that can monitor heart rate.
More recently, the company has extended this technology into the Sensoria Smart Running Shoe. Textile pressure sensors embedded in the shoe are connected to a detachable electronic device called Sensoria® Core, which features system on chip (SoC) technology. The sensors monitor pace, speed, ascent and descent, cadence, contact time, foot-landing technique and impact, which is accessed using the Sensoria Run companion app. A runner may use the data to improve performance and reduce the risk of injuries. Sensoria currently is taking preorders for the shoes.
Sensoria reports its technologies are customizable and compatible with a variety of healthcare applications. Its sensors are safe for use on skin and have been tested at a variety of pH ranges. The thin sensor — less than 1 millimeter thick — offers flexibility for a wide range of clinical applications including diabetic foot complications, fall detection and prevention, neurology, and rehabilitation, according to the company.
BeBop: From Musical Applications To Health Tech
Berkley, Calif.-based BeBop Sensors Inc.’s approach uses fabric to measure force. Launched back in 2014, BeBop’s Wearable Smart Fabric Sensor was developed as a spin off from a sensor technology company created by musical instrument inventor Keith McMillen. BeBop uses a combination of polymers to make a fabric piezoresistive. When the material is strained in any way — twisted, bent, stretched or when force is applied — there is a change to the fabric’s electrical properties, which can be quantified by conductive inks that sense the change in resistance. Unique geometries are used depending on the application.
According to the company, its sensors can measure physicality, XYZ location, bend, motion, rotation, angle torsion as well as sense pressure. BeBop reports the market applications for its technology include clothing and protective wear, shoes, healthcare devices, athletic equipment, automotive, robotics, aerospace, gaming, biometrics, and prosthetics.
Conductive inks sense changes in resistance in Berkley, Calif.-based BeBop Sensors Inc.’s piezoresistive fabrics. Unique geometries are used for each application.
The company developed a High Resolution Smart Helmet Sensor System, which employs 40 sensors in the helmet’s liner to capture a high-speed movie of an entire impact incident from the perspective of the head. The data, which includes the exact impact location and velocity thresholds, can be used by first responders and for post-trauma analysis. The helmet also can be programmed to trigger an emergency call or other response command. “Strikes to the pterion (temple area) are far more dangerous than to the frontal bone, said Keith McMillen, BeBop founder and CEO. “Knowing where the strike originated and how it propagates during the event can provide valuable first responder information as well as input for decision making to dial an emergency 911 number for assistance.”
Recently, the company closed a more than $10 million Series A round of funding led by San Francisco-based Bullpen Capital. The company reports it intends to use the funds to accelerate product development and market penetration of its sensor-based technologies.
By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief
