By James M. Borneman
The Berry Amendment remains the cornerstone of today’s US textile industry. Enacted in 1941 to protect manufacturing capacity — especially textiles — for military needs during World War II, it was made permanent in 1994 and codified into law in 2002.
The amendment safeguards U.S. textiles by mandating that the Department of Defense (DoD) (now Department of War) source most textiles, clothing, and materials from domestic producers — from raw fiber through finished garments. Many regard Berry as the foundation of the “Buy American” procurement policy for military outfitting.
More importantly, it incentivizes capital investment by the industry in readiness to serve the DoD as a dependable partner with the DoD offering predictable demand, allowing for capacity planning for military-focused yarn, fabric, apparel, and advanced textile solutions.
Berry has not been without opposition. Some argue that the amendment inflates procurement costs, limits competition, and guarantees demand to specific U.S. firms — effectively creating a “self-imposed blockade” on efficient sourcing from around the globe.
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President Kim Glas notes that, “The U.S. textile industry provides $1.8 billion of high-tech and functional components for vital uniforms and equipment for our armed forces each year. The Department of War estimates that over 8,000 different textile items are purchased for use by the U.S. military — and over 30,000 line items when individual sizes are considered.”
One of the best examples of the need to protect U.S. manufacturing capacity is when the U.S. textile industry rapidly pivoted to produce Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) during COVID-19. Many say the response served as a compelling example for why sustained support like the Berry Amendment is vital. Manufacturers quickly re-tooled their plants to supply more than $2 billion in Berry-compliant gowns, masks and gear for the DoD, HHS and FEMA, proving that domestic capacity exists but relies on steady demand to remain viable amid foreign competition.
A strong Berry Amendment drives innovation and investment in the U.S. textile industry by guaranteeing a stable market for advanced materials and cutting-edge products — in effect, incentivizing R&D knowing the DoD has a steady demand to consume high-performance military gear.
Recently, the NCTO announced the launch of the bipartisan Congressional Berry Amendment Caucus, co-chaired by Reps. Pat Harrigan (R-NC) and Don Davis (D-NC), with strong backing from NCTO and groups like the Warrior Protection and Readiness Coalition.
At the time NCTO’s Glas stated that the new bipartisan Caucus is, “aimed at strengthening national security and the U.S. defense industrial supply chain through the federal procurement of American-made mission-critical clothing, textiles and gear.”
The goals go beyond preserving Berry and include modernizing the amendment, closing the $150K small-purchase loophole and pushing for multiyear contracts to stabilize supply chains for uniforms, body armor and advanced textiles.
From WWII to COVID-19—no crisis was foreseen, yet dedicated leaders and a resilient industry proved the value of a robust U.S. textile base: ready to serve, built to endure.
2026 Quarterly Issue I
