Textile World recently caught up with CiCLO’s Andrea Ferris to talk about CiCLO technology, government mandates and sustainability goals, among other topics.
TW Special Report
Textile World last spoke with Andrea Ferris — co-founder and CEO of Intrinsic Advanced Materials, and co-inventor of CiCLO® technology — several years ago, about microplastics, CiCLO technology, and Intrinsic Advanced Materials, a joint venture company with Parkdale, Gastonia, N.C. (See “CiCLO®: Just One Arrow In The Microfiber Pollution Solution Quiver”, TW, September/October 2022).
Ferris and her CiCLO biodegradable chemistry co-inventor Alan McIntosh recognized the performance characteristics inherent in polymers such as polyester and nylon and understood that they have an important role in the textile industry and cannot just be replaced by an environmentally friendlier fiber. But they also recognized the issues with polyester and nylon products at the end of their lifetime and their contributions to textile and microplastic pollution. Rather than focusing on recycling and circular systems as a solution, the pair instead zeroed in on a way to make the synthetic fibers biodegradable.
CiCLO technology is blended with conventional or recycled polyester and nylon during melt extrusion as the fiber is manufactured becoming permanently embedded in the fiber.
This additive creates countless biodegradable spots throughout the matrix of the fabric that allow microbes to break-down fibers when they inevitably end up in the environment.
CiCLO technology only biodegrades the polymer under the right conditions — in the presence of moisture and microbes over an extended period of time — and therefore doesn’t impact the performance of the polyester or nylon products during their useful lifetime. But once the garment or other textile product treated with CiCLO biodegradable chemistry ends up in the environment, it will biodegrade similar to a natural or inherently biodegradable material.
TW recently had the opportunity to catch up with Ferris to talk about the latest CiCLO technology developments and the next era of sustainability.
TW: We last chatted in 2022 about CiCLO technology and Intrinsic Advanced Materials. Are there any significant company updates you’d like to talk about?
Ferris: The brand has experienced remarkable growth since 2022!
Mid-2024 we hit a major milestone, producing more than 100 million pounds of biodegradable fiber using CiCLO technology. More than 50 brands and retailers now use CiCLO polyester, including Billabong, Oakley, Target, McDonald’s, Bloomingdale’s, Landau, and more, to mitigate the environmental impacts of synthetic microplastic pollution.
At the end of 2023, we were part of Champion’s Eco-Future collection launch, introducing an updated version of the brand’s hero Reverse Weave sweatsuits made with CiCLO fibers. Building on this momentum, in early 2024, we worked with Uwila Warrior to introduce the market’s first line of biodegradable undergarments.
Bass Pro Shops launched its first World Wide Sportsman Nylon Angler shirt with CiCLO nylon this week. We have more exciting adoptions launching in 2025 and 2026 from world-known brands. We’re so grateful that more brands and consumers are becoming aware that while synthetics offer tremendous performance benefits, they inevitably contribute to microplastic pollution, and are seeking solutions that are available now, like CiCLO technology.
TW: There is no doubt sustainability is one of the most important issues facing the textile industry today. The development of CiCLO technology focuses on biodegradability versus recycling. How do you make the case for biodegradable materials versus recycled?
Ferris: We don’t see it as biodegradable versus recyclable; biodegradability complements circularity. Synthetic fibers and fabrics made with CiCLO technology remain durable and recyclable, maintaining performance during wash, wear and care. At the same time, any synthetic fibers shed from fabrics made with CiCLO technology can biodegrade
at greatly accelerated rates if they end up as microplastic pollutants. We’re huge supporters of textile recycling and thrilled that extended producer responsibility (EPR) legislation will help fast-track an infrastructure to scale it. Many of our customers use recycled polyester made from bottles today and see that transitioning to polyester made from textile waste in the coming years. However, almost all synthetic fabrics shed, whether made from virgin or recycled materials, so circularity won’t solve the microplastic issue. CiCLO technology can be blended with virgin or recycled polyester from bottles
or textile waste.
TW: How do limited government sustainability expectations impact progress and the pace of development for plastic pollution solutions?
Ferris: With anticipated deregulation under the new U.S. administration, scaling sustainable solutions that are already available today is more critical than ever. While I’m an optimistic environmentalist myself, I’m also pragmatic. I hope any potential deregulation makes it easier for businesses to innovate and grow without impacting our environment.
Based on hundreds of meetings with brands and retailers over the last several years, I recognize that organizations are simply teams of people trying to do the right thing and improve responsible manufacturing. If the government doesn’t require specific standards, brands should embrace it as an opportunity to take even more initiative to lead their sector and assert themselves as the gold standard. People frequently ask why governments don’t yet mandate that synthetics be biodegradable since the technology exists. I think a more appropriate question to ask as industry innovators, manufacturers, and consumers is “Why should we wait for government to mandate that we do the right thing instead of just doing it?”
TW: The European Union is adopting a variety of durability mandates —with the Strategy for Circular and Sustainable Textiles and the Green Claims Directive just two among many pieces of legislation that address durability and extended producer responsibility that will impact the textile industry. How do you think these regulations will reshape design and production practices, and how should brands prepare for the changes?
Ferris: The upcoming EU textile durability standards are more than another regulatory requirement — they’ll reshape the entire approach to design and manufacturing. We’re likely going to see brands integrate durability testing into development processes, with a particular focus on fiber selection and construction techniques. Companies that view these regulations as an opportunity rather than a burden will gain a competitive edge, especially as consumers increasingly demand quality and transparency in their clothing purchases.
These design requirements will help curb fast fashion in the long run by reducing the excessive amount of products that flood the market today and raising consumer awareness about the environmental and social impacts of the mass disposal of textiles. Even so, due to the accessibility, affordability, and durability of synthetics like polyester and nylon, they will remain a preferred material for many brands. According to Textile Exchange [a non-profit organization driving beneficial impacts on climate and nature in the fashion and textile industry], the use of polyester alone may reach 90 million metric tons annually by 2030, which will drive the need for solutions that enable their use in a more responsible way.
TW: Polyester recycling remains a major focus of the textile industry as a method to tackle plastic pollution. Do you envision a shift from recycled polyester (rPET) and what does the future look like without the scaled infrastructure for an alternative?
Ferris: Many brands continue to use rPET as part of their sustainability goals, but some are also exploring alternative materials to complement its use. This shift is driven by factors like the rising cost of rPET, challenges in sourcing high-quality bottle flake for performance applications, and the desire to keep plastic bottles within the established recycling infrastructure for maximum circularity.
While rPET remains a key material in many sustainability strategies, it is not without challenges— most notably, the microfibers it sheds, which are a leading source of microplastic pollution in natural environments.
This is where innovations like CiCLO technology come in, offering an act-now solution to address the environmental impact of microplastic shedding. By incorporating CiCLO technology, brands can continue using rPET fabrics while helping to ensure that any fibers that shed and end up as microplastic pollution won’t persist in the environment indefinitely. As rPET is unlikely to disappear from the industry, CiCLO technology provides a crucial pathway for minimizing its impact and supporting a more sustainable future.
We know scalability is a significant hindrance to the adoption of sustainable solutions. When developing CiCLO technology, we focused on making the technology easy to integrate into supply chains and scalable for growing sustainability programs. We’re proud to lead in affordable, accessible, and scalable solutions for synthetics.
TW: How are brands weighing the balance between cost and environmental impact?
Ferris: Cost is a consideration for any product redesign or manufacturing process change. However, failing to make the updates required to manufacture more responsibly poses separate cost risks down the line — regulatory risks should new legislation require it, reputation damage as consumers are more aware and concerned about sustainability, loss of competitiveness, and supply chain vulnerabilities. Everyone pays in some way for the accumulating environmental impacts our society is causing.
Many brands are now taking a more long-term approach to their sustainability goals, which is a positive shift.They’re focusing on affordable, scalable, and logistically practical solutions, starting with steps that significantly impact their goals. When cost is a concern, brands can re-engineer designs or evaluate SKU volumes to align cost efficiency with reduced environmental impact, ensuring the two considerations work together rather than compete.
As a supplier of biodegradable technology, our mission is to provide brands and retailers with efficient supply chains where they need it. Unlike many new materials innovators who start small with capsule collections and hope to scale later, we’ve spent years building a global infrastructure to support the world’s largest brands. Our platform solution for biodegradable synthetics is designed to integrate seamlessly into existing processes and pricing structures. Rather than forcing brands to choose between cost and environmental impact, we aim to provide solutions that align the two, proving that sustainability and affordability can work hand in hand.
TW: Through your work with brands including Champion, Target, and Billabong, what trends or practices have emerged that seem to be effective in advancing sustainability goals?
Ferris: I cannot speak to any specific brand’s strategy, but I can share some things we see happening within organizations that effectively drive sincere change.
For one, it’s helpful when sustainability is a part of everyone’s jobs. Good ideas come from everywhere, and each person knows an area or thing well.Teams closest to product development, for example, are probably the ones who can determine the most feasible improvements to design specs.
At the same time, sourcing might have the best ideas for tier 3 supplier improvements, for example.The best and most solutions will materialize when everyone is encouraged to contribute.
When we work with large brands or retailers, we partner with one or many “champions” in the organization who help us navigate how to integrate CiCLO technology into their synthetics. They have varying responsibilities, but the common thread is that they are an environmentalist at heart and want to do good because it’s right.Today we met with one of those champions whose formal role is around assured supply for mostly non-textiles categories. We thanked her for helping us even though it’s “not her job” and she replied, “Well, I know how to make it happen and I care, so I guess, why shouldn’t it be my job?”
Another way we see goals being advanced is by setting achievable initiatives that don’t break the bank. Designing for durability and recyclability are top of mind for the industry moving forward and both can be tackled with strategic product design, often requiring zero dollars. Addressing synthetic textiles that shed microplastics also remains an important issue, and the industry is looking to solve it with solutions ranging from improved yarn and fabric construction to recommending improved wastewater and laundering filtration to prioritizing biodegradable fibers.
TW: How do you see consumer awareness and behavior influencing the adoption of sustainable practices? What role does consumer education play in driving demand for truly sustainable products?
Ferris: Consumer awareness plays a massive role in brands’ adoption of sustainable practices. As shoppers become more aware of the impact of their purchases, their shopping behaviors have evolved, with many consumers intentionally seeking out the most sustainable options for whatever is on their shopping list. Gen-Z has been at the forefront of consumer education and the changes in buyer priorities, largely thanks to brands educating consumers on social media.
In 2023, PDI’s Business of Sustainability Index reported that 91 percent of Gen-Z want to buy from sustainable companies.1 Recent financial stressors across markets have impacted short-term buying behavior, but even though buying behaviors might temporarily be in opposition to shoppers’ values, their perspectives aren’t changing. When financial circumstances change, values will undoubtedly be reflected by purchase decisions.
Embracing sustainability is critical for brands’ long-term success and, most importantly, for building consumer trust that transcends economic fluctuations or trends.
TW: What does the next era of sustainability look like, in your opinion?
Ferris: The next era of sustainability is going to go beyond what some have referred to as “carbon tunnel syndrome.” For the past few years, the conversation has been narrowly focused on reducing carbon emissions through modifications to manufacturing and logistics processes or material choices, for example. Efforts to reduce and control carbon emissions will remain a priority, but this next era is ushering in EPR and the infrastructure to support truly circular textiles. We will see a massive reduction in the amount of textile waste that goes to landfill, which will instead be sorted and funneled to appropriate recycling facilities. Resalable items will remain in circulation and the second-hand market will boom. EPR schemes will prioritize repair, reuse and resale above recycling into new fibers. The use of recycled and lower impact materials will also be incentivized, and while I don’t know exactly how, it could be done through reduced “ecomodulated fees” charged to manufac-turers in EPR plans.
Lastly, there will be much more transparency to consumers about where and how their products were made, what chemicals were used, and expectations for durability. Even just five years ago, it was hard to imagine that the global textiles industry could mobilize towards a circular economy. Now with EPR moving forward in the EU and California, the world’s fifth largest economy, we’re going to see these efforts ripple throughout the world.
TW: Are there any emerging technologies or innovations that you believe have the potential to significantly transform sustainability in the textile industry over the next decade?
Ferris: Well, I’d be remiss not to start with mentioning that CiCLO technology can significantly transform sustainability over the next decade. We believe that within the next five years a significant portion of polyester will transition to a combination of both virgin and recycled CiCLO polyester, which is durable, recyclable and also biodegradable. Within
10 years, at least half of the polyester produced around the world will be CiCLO polyester and a large percentage will be made from recycled textile waste. More research comes out weekly on the topic of synthetic microfiber pollution; it is the most prolific form of microplastic pollution found all over the globe … and it doesn’t need to be. CiCLO technology is a vetted, affordable and scaled solution that is available now.
Textile sorting technologies also have the potential to significantly transform the industry. Sorting has been a very manual process, but several companies are working on super-fast materials identification for proper sorting.This is not only important for mechanical and chemical recyclers who will make new fiber or things like insulation or rags, but for the second-hand market. Advanced technology could do things like scan items for quality, amount of wear, brand, for example, quickly set an appropriate price and list it for sale online.The resale marketplace for second-hand could explode and will be serious competition for brands making new products.
I don’t have a crystal ball, but I do know the future looks bright and exciting.
References
1 https://pditechnologies.com/blog/tracking-gen-z-consumer-trends-sustainability/
2025 Quarterly Issue I
