Automated Cutting & Sewing For Industry 4.0

Technology highlighted at ITMA 2023 makes it clear that the textile and apparel industry is making steady progress towards Industry 4.0.

By Dr. Minyoung Suh

Unlike other industries where diverse products have been manufactured without relying much on human labor in the past decades, automation has made slow progress in apparel manufacturing. Compared to rigid materials, such as plastic and metal, fabrics are notorious for having a much higher degree of freedom when transported. Fabrics deform significantly even under a very small load, such as dead weight or air resistance. This property creates extreme challenges when designing machinery to handle flexible textile materials. Despite continued advances in the latest technologies, fully automated apparel manufacturing still appears to be illusive, for now.

Amazon initiated on-demand apparel manufacturing in 2015 and patented its automated apparel factory in 2017. The facilities include printing customer-provided designs on textile surfaces, cutting the fabric into a custom size and fit, and assembling the garments without relying on human labor. Amazon’s service is geared toward the production of made-to-order T-shirts, which are relatively simple in their design and structure. It typically takes a few weeks from order to delivery. However, considering that it traditionally takes 12 to 18 months to have a clothing line ready for market, it is revolutionary to remarkable shorten the lead time.

On-demand or just-in-time production is not a new concept in fashion. Historically, every garment was made-to-order. But a lack of skilled labor and accessible resources, meant it required a long time and was very costly to produce a single garment before industrialization. Moving into the ready-to-wear market in the 19th and 20th centuries, textile products became more abundant and affordable as the industry was mechanized and grew rapidly during the industrial era. More recently, the modern concept of on-demand manufacturing — focused on making garments only when someone needs them within a fair amount of time at a reasonable price — has been a major breakthrough in the ready-to-wear market. Technological advances are key drivers to lead and support the transition to on-demand manufacturing.

At ITMA 2023, Israel-based Kornit Digital hosted a showcase under the slogan “Digital Production Goes Mainstream.” The company highlighted its end-to-end production facilities for on-demand manufacturing where the latest manufacturing technologies have been integrated into a T-shirt production line. It starts with user-friendly design software. The 3D simulation of a virtual garment enables customers to evaluate and finalize their design decisions. Unique, customized designs are digitally printed using a direct-to-garment printer, where curing also is administered seamlessly. The finished products are automatically packaged and shipped out for delivery. During the entire process, every tangible and intangible resource is managed by barcodes, such as print designs, fabric substrate decisions, and information on size and fit, among other information. Although Kornit did not spot-light cut-and-sew processes of the T-shirts in detail, automatic cutting and assembly may be involved on some level.

Automated manufacturing of sewn products is a prerequisite condition to enable on-demand production. Thanks to computer-aided-design tools and network systems, product development processes continue to be digitalized and remotely managed, but cut-and-sew operations still heavily rely on skilled human labor for hands-on assembly1. Electrically powered sewing machines have assisted the fashion industry for more than 100 years, but the dependence on human dexterity and experience has not yet been lowered as radically as expected. Meaningful advances are semi-automated sewing systems that have been introduced to the market, where a human operator loads and aligns work pieces to the machine1. Sewing automation is considered the last piece of the puzzle that finalizes the transition to a new revolutionary age in the future of fashion.

Since the worldwide clothing market is worth about $1.52 trillion2, on-demand manufacturing has arisen as a game changer to boost the global economy as well as improve the quality of life. The benefit will not be limited to fashion consumers taking advantage of satisfactory products at an affordable price right on time. It allows a more ethical work environment for product developers by releasing the pressure from seasonal deadlines and inventory management. Less waste is generated because every production guarantees actual sales3. Personalization could have customers emotionally attached to what they create and buy, and there-fore the product lifespan becomes extended, turning the fashion market over for sustainable developments.

Based on the observations and discussions with machinery producers during ITMA 2023, this article introduces recent technical advances in automated apparel manufacturing. ITMA is the largest international textile and garment technology exhibition that takes place every four years. In 2023, the event featured 18 sectors for different manufacturing sectors, including spinning, weaving, knitting and printing, among other sectors. The two sectors explored and investigated in depth for this article — automatic cutting systems and automated sewing units — were under the garment making division. By illustrating several examples of automated equipment, novel features and key trends are highlighted for apparel cutting and sewing technologies. Reviewing the report on the same topic out of ITMA 2019 (see “Automated Cutting & Sewing Developments,” Textile World, March/April 2020), readers can gain more insights into where textile and apparel technologies were, are, and will be.

Automation In Cutting

Cutting rooms in apparel manufacturing facilities have been consistently mechanized and digitalized in the past 60 years since Gerber Technology introduced the first automated cutting system in the 1960s. Nowadays, computer numerically controlled (CNC) cutters are widely spread and adopted by many apparel manufacturers dealing with large quantity production. Various cutting technologies have been developed for diverse applications, including blade, laser, water jet, plasma and ultrasound technologies. As automated cutting technology reaches maturity, cutter manufacturers are focused on the development of auxiliary systems maximizing cutting efficiency.

Multiple major CNC cutter manufacturers participated in ITMA 2023. Italy-based Morgan Tecnica S.p.A. is one of the visible leaders in cutting innovations. Switzerland-based Zünd Systemtechnik AG and Kuris Spezialmaschinen GmbH, Germany, also are steady key players. Serkon Tekstil Makina, Turkey, continues to thrive. Based on observations of the automated cutting systems displayed during ITMA 2023, key technical features could be characterized into three points as follows: seamless integrations of equipment before and after cutting; popularity of optical pattern matching system; and enhanced heavy-duty cutting capability.

One of the noticeable features in the latest cutting equipment is that the system integration is more aligned than ever before. Multiple manufacturers presented their cutters together with other equipment in a row mimicking an actual production line, such as fabric inspectors, spreaders and pattern labelers. For example, Italy-based IMA S.p.A. showcased its “Syncro Cutting Room” where equipment — including a fabric roll loader, a spreader, an automatic cutter, and a labeler — can be mixed and matched Spreaders and labelers are not brand-new technology, but the seamless integration in between equipment was spotlighted in machine demonstrations during ITMA.

Figure 1 (left to right): Air blower on the Kuris A23 spreader and Orox VRun spreader

Kuris showcased a spreader with air blowers in connection with its cutter (See Figure 1). Air blowing facilitates precise and accurate control of elastic fabrics. A compressed air supply of up to 6 bar flattens and prevents the cut edges of fabric from curling. It also assists to blow fabric folds out from each layer, which minimizes human intervention during spreading. Vibrating plates are equipped to help release unnecessary tension on the fabric. Orox Group S.r.l., Italy, also introduced a spreader with com-pressed air of 100 liters per minute (7 bar) . Its spreading stick is equipped with the buttons for remote control to maximize productivity of the operator (See Figure 1).

Although cutting has fairly been automated since late 1900s, it has remained heavily dependent on human labor to sort and bundle cut pieces. As the technology progressed, labelers were incorporated into the cutter and assisted manual unloading processes. The features of the labeler seem to be diversified into multiple approaches. Morgan Tecnica continued sticking thermally printed labels directly to the cut pieces by locating additional cross-bar for labelling purposes (See Figure 2). Another approach was demonstrated by Serkon Tekstil Makina which placed a projector screening pattern layouts and the associated information over the cutting table (See Figure 2). Laser projection has been previously implemented for leather cutting, where non-rectangular substances with intri-cate geometries must be detected and located on the table before cutting. This technology is now widespread and assists sorting and unloading cut pieces. China-based TPET showcased a stamping machine that inks the information directly on each cut piece after unloading (See Figure 2).

Figure 2 (left to right): Various types of labeling devices — printed sticker by Morgan Tecnica, laser projection by Serkon Makina, and a stamping machine and stamped fabric samples by TPET

Vision technology for pattern alignment has become more mainstream than ever before. Machine vision technology collects information from visual resources, detects optical characteristics of the surface, positions and manages them interactively4. Pat-tern matching assistance using optical devices was initiated in the early 2010s, and the technology continued to grow over the past decades. As a result, most cutters at ITMA 2023 were equipped with a high-mounted camera (see Figure 3) capturing the surface characteristics of cutting beds in real time. Recognizing design patterns over the fabric surface, this camera synchronizes the fabric surface information between the cutting table and marker screen. This allows visual administration of pattern alignment for garments made from stripes or plaids and engineered prints. Possible technical shortcomings are known to be associated with poor image quality, low precision, low efficiency, and high labor intensity of manual operation4.

Figure 3 (left to right): High-mounted cameras for fabric pattern alignment by Zünd, Lakeview Technology and Bullmer.

Morgan Tecnica configured its vision system different from other manufacturers. While other manufacturers adopted a single commercial off-the-shelf camera (See Figure 3), Morgan Tecnica has developed multiple cameras specific to its system. The cameras re mounted as low as 50 to 60 centimeters from the cutting table, together with plenty of light sources (See Figure 4). To ensure a wider angle of view, four cameras are installed processing data in connection. Intense lighting from relatively short distances could provide clearer vision, improving accuracy and completeness of the overall system. It might also be easier to manage the cameras and light sources in case physical adjustments are required. In addition, the optical system that “sees” the fabric surface makes it possible to cut sublimation printed fabrics without creating separate markers since the print contours are detected for a cutting line as shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4: Morgan Tecnica Vision System (left) with multiple low-mounted cameras (right).

Cutting equipment with enhanced heavy-duty capabilities also was on display. Italy-based FK Group S.p.A. and IMA showcased their cutter models, Iron Heavy and Typhoon, respectively, capable of cutting 60-millimeter-thick stacks of denim fabric (See Figure 5). IMA also presented a sloper cutter, Maxima SP, that can cut 5-mm-thick hard boards for the accurate and precise management of flat patterns. Germany-based automated cutter manufacturer, Bullmer GmbH, employed modular cutting tools for its Premiumcut ELC cutter, which can handle various composite materials from fabric, rubber, and metal, for diverse industry applications. Here, the maximum cutting depth varies depending on the material.

Figure 5 (left to right): Heavy-duty cutters demonstrated by FK Group and IMA

Automation In Sewing

In contrast to the competent progress in cutting technology, automated sewing is still in the middle of developing its core technology. It is notoriously difficult to automate apparel assembly. In most commercial systems currently available, automated sewing capability is limited to simple textile products such as pillowcases, bed sheets, towels and mats. With only straight seams involved in a simple structure, these types of products are the first-generation products pioneering sewing automation. Automated production of these products looks more specialized and diversified than before and was demonstrated by a number of companies during ITMA 2023. Multiple technologies for fully automated production of bed sheets, towels, and mats were on display. The flat single layered structure of these products means they can simply be finished by cutting fabrics and finishing the edges, but sewing techniques are quite varied depending on production needs. The systems for bed sheets and towels, demonstrated by Texpa GmbH and Carl Schmale GmbH & Co. KG (Schmale Durate), both based in Germany, were equipped with fold-and-sew stitchers located on the path along which the fabric was transported. With multiple trimming options, decorative effects are available (See Figure 6). TPET completed towels by applying overlock stitches covering the edges instead of folding and Italy-based Rimac S.r.l. chose to stitch a binding around a car mat (See Figure 6).

Figure 6 (clockwise from top left): Automated sewing for towels by Schmale Durate, bed sheets by Texpa, mats by Rimac and towels by TPET

The appearance of diverse handling technologies was noticeable in each system. As captured in Figure 6, TPET uses a metal plate pressing a fabric piece against a worktable to rotate the piece while its four-side edges are sewn. Another type of handling technique — four grippers— was charged to pick up, unload, and stack the finished towels. Rimac adopted spheric rollers, where roller arrays spin omni-directionally and transport a workpiece over the sewing table. Schmale Durate and Texpa utilize a few sets of cylinder rolls to feed and drive fabric forward. Though omni-directional rotations are not achievable in this configuration, it is still possible to turn the workpiece perpendicularly.

More than a single layer of fabric needs to be incorporated for pillowcase production. Fully automated pillowcase production starts with two fabric layers passing through feeders into the system directly from fabric rolls (See Figure 7). They are seamed at each side by two sewing machines located on their path and cut to a certain length depending on pillow dimensions. Flowing on a conveyor, the workpiece is turned to 90 degrees and the third seam is finished while a product label is simultaneously inserted. Heat treatment follows on the unseamed side to protect the edge from unraveling.

Figure 7: Fully automated pillowcase maker by Automatex showing feeding and seaming (left) and labeling (right).

A pillow maker — which is a separate system from pillowcase maker —was demonstrated by a Sweden-based company ACG Kinna Automatic (See Figure 8). It requires a pre-sewn pillowcase to start with, which could be acquired using a system such as the one described above. The pre-sewn pillowcase is loaded onto the system by a human operator and filled with filler materials. It flows along a conveyor and the open seam is closed (See Figure 8). The pillow maker includes two simple opera-tions for filling and closing, but it is remarkable to see that 3D products can be handled and processed through automatic systems. It is expected sooner or later that the ini-tial loading step will be mechanized, making the system fully automated.

Figure 8: Automated pillow maker by ACG Kinna Automatic illustrating filling (left) and closing (right)

One new invention was seen in the T-shirt sewing machine presented by Texpa. It showcased automated sewing capability for stitching seams in a streamlined shape, while other companies have stuck to sewing straight seams. Texpa’s machine was configured with two overlock stitchers located in variable distances (See Figure 9). Once two layers of T-shirt fabric, front and back plied with each other, are loaded by a human opera-tor, the sewing machines start creating side seams on each side simultaneously. While stitches are made moving the fabric forward, the machines also travels right and left for a predetermined distance and speed. This movement results in curved side seams that shape a T-shirt.

Figure 9: Texpa T-shirts machine with curvature sewing capability (left) and the resulting seam (right)

This approach to T-shirt sewing is somewhat comparable to what Germany-based Nähmaschinenfabrik Emil Stutznaecker GmbH & Co. KG (Mammut) has implemented for mattress production in terms of the fact that both a workpiece and a sewing machine are moving. In the Mammut automatic quilter, a big frame holds multiple layers of rectangular workpieces tight while a sewing head travels omni-directionally to leave needle stitches in patterns. Making a synchronized movement to the top sewing head, a counterpart sewing head with a bobbin exists underneath the workpiece. In this way, Mammut creates double lockstitches in diverse quilting patterns. A hollow frame makes it possible for needle and bob-bin threads to get interlaced at any spot. The overall configuration of the automated quilting machine is similar to the structure of automatic cutters where a cutting head is attached to a crossbar moving over the workpiece.

Figure 10: Mobile Cavity Technology by Fast Sewn

The use of a hollow frame, however, would not always be possible when stitching fabric pieces of greater variety in their shape and size, such as during apparel production. A Denmark-based company, Fast Sewn (Mikkelsen Innovation ApS), has proposed an innovative method, called “mobile cavity technology” for automated garment assembly (See Figure 10). A sewing table is made of multiple conveyor belts that transport the workpiece, but the belt successfully detours the sewing spot by creating a mobile cavity around a bobbin. In this configuration, the flexible workpiece still gets supported and driven along the process, while the interlacing between needle and bobbin yarns takes place anywhere on the workpiece. This relatively new company is expected to launch commercial machinery on to the market eventually.

One of the leading companies in automated sewing, Atlanta-based Softwear Automation Inc., was absent from ITMA 2023. Its introduction of the Sewbot® revolutionized apparel manufacturing in 2012, with its vision of producing clothing without traditional garment workers. Its system utilizes a combination of patented high-speed vision technology and lightweight robotics that monitor fabric pieces and steer the workpiece through conventional sewing machines. Specialized in T-shirt production, Sewbot was launched as a service contract for a monthly fee starting at $5,000 per unit5. As previously reported in Textile World, an automated T-shirt workline was able to produce a collared shirt in 162 seconds6.

Alternative Sewing Technologies

On the other hand, alternative sewing technologies were more visible than before at ITMA. They may replace stitch-making operations such as ultrasonic welding, adhesive bonding and printed embroidery. Those operations might be considered easier to administer without a human operator compared to conventional sewing. Ultrasonic welding and adhesive bonding are not new technologies, but extended applications were featured at ITMA.

Spain-based Optron Textile Machinery presented calender rolls that can create welded lines of quilting stitches over a blanket or a mattress (See Figure 11). Major sewing machine makers Juki Corp. and Brother Industries Ltd., both headquartered in Japan, also displayed several welding machines that can join thermoplastic fabrics. According to Hayes and McLoughlin7, welded seams are less durable, but create softer and smoother joints than sewn and bonded seams.

Figure 11 (left to right): Alternative sewing technologies include welded quilting by Optron; and bonded seaming by Brother and the resulting seams

Adhesive bonding is similar, but different from welding because joining is accomplished by solidifying an adhesive material placed between the layers of workpieces. Typical adhesive materials are in the form of tape, which is activated under heat and pressure and joins seams by melting through the fabric structure. Bonding is possible for almost all non-fleece fabrics with some limitations, such as porous materials8. Brother attracted good deal of attention ITMA with its bonding machine equipped with a liquid adhesive feeder (See Figure 11). Bonded seams for apparel are reported to be smoother and less visible than sewn seams.

Figure 12: Printed embroidery as a sewing alternative by Kornit Digital

Another sew-free technology example was demonstrated by Kornit Digital. A printed embroidery technique was spotlighted as a part of its digital production line of T-shirts. Its direct-to-garment printers were improved for quality production enough to mimic 3D surface decorations such as embroidery. As shown in Figure 12, it was not easy to distinguish between stitches and prints even close up. A major advantage of using printed embroidery is to digitally control the manufacturing processes. Leaving nothing on the wrong side of the fabric, it also maintains the light and soft properties of the fabric rather than adding intense embroidery stitches.

Textile Industry 4.0

The textile industry was at the fore-front of three prior industrial revolutions and is actively adapting itself to the fourth revolution currently going on. Triggered and driven by information technology development, the major innovations for Industry 4.0 are based on digital transformation. It aims to merge the actual and virtual worlds through cyberphysical systems and interconnects humans and machines through the Internet of Things (IoT)9. This allows apparel producers to monitor manufacturing issues in real time and control production progress remotely making apparel factories smart. The key elements of the technology are the IoT and interoperable network. The overarching goal is maximizing production efficiency and productivity. As evidenced at ITMA 2023, Industry 4.0 is an active on-going term for many textile companies with lots of technological innovations forthcoming. With Industry 4.0 in mind, multiple cutting and sewing machine
producers are actively engaged with software development, working to expand the capability of their hardware. Multiple examples were found at ITMA. Zünd Systemtechnik has partnered with Portugal-based Mind Technology to strengthen its user interface. Juki continues linking its hardware devices to the network system, called JaNets1. Mammut launched its own software product series that reads machine operation status, formulates analytic reports on productivity issues and suggests predictive maintenance. ACG Kinna Automatic is working on developing software to reinforce their its technology, not only to enhance pattern matching accuracy, but also to inspect and manage fabric defects efficiently.

In regard to quality control, advanced technologies are more actively incorporated, such as machine learning and artificial intelligence. For a long time, quality control systems were not autonomous and asked machine operators to stay alerted and detect product defects. Relying on human-oriented labor, some defects often ended up unnoticed until finished products reached the end user. Thanks to recent advances in vision technology, artificial intelligence now replaces human inspectors and assists production optimization by suggesting data-driven decisions. At ITMA, Serkon Tekstil Makina demonstrated a new fabric inspection system run by deep vision technology and artificial intelligence. Its system is designed to manage not only surface defects, but also color transitions.

Another visible area pioneered by artificial intelligence is creative design. By merging artificial intelligence into computer-aided design (CAD) tools, the intelligent CAD system creates digital designs automatically based on the database from various resources and provides professional suggestions for new designs. This enables people with limited expertise in design to customize products for themselves, which supports the very first stage of on-demand manufacturing. A start-up company, Myth.AI, presented an AI-based pattern design tool at ITMA that visualizes unique unlimited options for new designs from multiple clicks.

In the meantime, the next revolution — Industry 5.0 — already is underway in the textile industry, while many industries are still in the middle of Industry 4.0. According to the European Union9, Industry 5.0 discusses the values beyond manufacturing efficiency and productivity. Shifting the focus from economic to societal values, it adds sustainable development and human-centric solutions to Industry 4.0. The concept is not new, however. Environmental, social, and governance (ESG) or triple bottom line approaches have been emphasized during the past decades by different levels of entities across the world. Industry 5.0 reminds us that human, environmental, and social aspects are a corporate social responsibility for the textile and apparel industry. Supporting Industry 5.0, specific examples of machinery in tangible and intangible formats are foreseen to dominate future ITMAs.

Developmental Journey

The technological innovations presented in ITMA 2023 were summarized to highlight the advanced state of automation in apparel cut-and-sew processes. The advances were obviously seen both in quality and quantity. More diverse applications of automated cutting and sewing technology were visible compared to ITMA 20191. The key trends in cutting were seamless integrations of equipment before and after cutting, popularity of optical pattern matching system, and enhanced heavy-duty cutting capability. Compared to cutting, sewing automation was still under active development of core technologies, which allowed only limited types of products in automated configurations. The direction of this developmental journey makes it clear that the textile and apparel industry is making a steady progress every day towards the fourth industry revolution and Industry 4.0.

References

1. Suh, M. (2019). Automated cutting and sewing for industry 4.0 at ITMA 2019. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management. Special Issue,
1- 13.
2. Aeppel, T. (2022). Robots set their sights on a new job: sewing blue jeans, Reuters, Retrieved on July 2023 from https://www.reuters.com/technology/robots-set-their-sights-new-job-sewing-blue-jeans-2022-12-12/
3. Davies, G. (2021). How does on-demand manufactur-ing work for fashion brands? Techpacker, Retrieved on July 2023 from https://techpacker.com/blog/design/fashion-on-demand-manufacturing/
4. Li, R., Zhao, S., and Yang, B. (2023). Research on the application status of machine vision technology in furniture manufacturing process. Applied Sciences, 13(4), 1-14.
5. Francis, S. (2019), SoftWear Automation launches Sewbots as a service, Robotics and Automation News, Retrieved on July 2023 from https://roboticsand automationnews.com/2019/02/05/softwear-automa-tion-launches-sewbots-as-a-service/20847/#:~: text=For%20a%20monthly%20fee%20starting,and%2 0three%20shifts%20a%20day
6. Textile World (2019). Sewbots® Transforming The Sewn Products Industry, Textile World, Retrieved on July 2023 from https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/2019/07/sewbots-transforming-the-sewn-prod ucts-industry/
7. Hayes, S. and McLoughlin, J. (2015). The sewing of textiles, In J. Jones and G.K. Stylios (Eds.) Joining Textiles (pp. 66-122). Sawston, United Kingdom: Woodhead Publishing.
8. Sarkar, J., Rifat, N. M., Sakib-Uz-Zaman, M., Al Faruque, M. A., & Prottoy, Z. H. (2023). Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing. In M. Rahman, M. Mashud, and M. Rahman (Eds.) Advanced Technology in Textiles: Fibre to Apparel (pp. 177-231). Singapore: Springer Nature.
9. Muller, J. (2021). Enabling Technologies for Industry 5.0, European Commission, Retrieved on July 2023 from https://op.europa.eu/en/publication-detail/-/pub-lication/8e5de100-2a1c-11eb-9d7e-01aa75 ed71a1/language-en

Editor’s Note: Dr. Minyoung Suh is an assistant professor in the Wilson College of Textiles at NC State, Raleigh, N.C., in the department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management. This article was adapted for Textile World from a paper by Dr. Suh published in the NC State Wilson College of Textiles’ Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management (JTATM).

January/February 2024

Bemis Expands Family Of EverFit™ Elastic Replacement Adhesives

SHIRLEY, Mass.— February 13, 2024 — Bemis Associates Inc. today announced that it has expanded its EverFit™ family of elastic replacement adhesives, giving apparel designers a full range of support and breathability options to design consistent, all-day comfort into garments for a wide variety of uses and body types.

EverFit, an innovative Sewfree® adhesive that replaces elastic and sewing to make clothes more comfortable and durable, has added 10 new EverFit offerings. Bemis’ softest and stretchiest adhesive yet, EverFit is particularly effective in elevating the performance and aesthetic of bras, waistbands and other garments that utilize straps, overlap seams or foldover hems.

“We know women and men want their clothes, especially bras and waistbands, to be comfortable all day, not just a few hours. This technology gives apparel brands the power to meet consumer demand and have the flexibility to create garments that fit every body shape with comfort for an entire day,” said Amir Nankali, Bemis global director of product innovation. “By offering this innovative technology in a wide variety of formulas, we are enabling apparel brands to create garments that provide different levels of support and breathability to meet consumers’ preferences.”

Bemis introduced EverFit in 2023 to immediate commercial success, particularly with brands in the intimates, performance and athleisure markets. Compared to traditional sewing and hems, Everfit reduces seamlines without adding bulk for a smooth look and feel. These benefits provide apparel brands with greater design opportunities in an ever-changing fashion landscape, and consumers with a lighter, more comfortable, consistent, all-day fit.

Available in solid, net and Bemis FlowFree breathable formats, Everfit technology is ideal for bralettes, wire bras, sports bras, t-shirt bras, leggings, underwear, biker shorts, and waistlines for sweatpants, and joggers.

Posted: February 13, 2024

Source: Bemis Associates, Inc.

Innovations In Testing & Quality Control

Uster attracted attention for its new 360Q integrated solution suite.

Part one in a two-part feature reviewing improved tests for fabric performance along with automated inspection and digitalization technologies that reduce product defects and waste to help improve the textile supply chain.

By Dr. Kavita Mathur

Key topics at ITMA 2023, held in Milan, Italy, included Automation and Digital Future, Advanced Materials, Sustainability and Circularity, and Innovative Technologies. These focus areas were very prominent throughout the show and were displayed in the ways of continuous improvement and advancements in technology, design capabilities and service for enhanced performance and overall efficiency. Machine manufacturers displayed diversified machines for apparel, home, carpet and technical textiles applications. To service these broad product portfolios, testing and qual-ity control (QC) equipment manufacturers offer advanced instruments in the field of measurement and control and automation, which support the textile industry in achieving efficient and reliable QC.

Textile testing and QC form a very important part of textile production, distribution and consumption. Quality management is important not only inside the factory, but also between suppliers because it helps to ensure the safety and quality for brands and consumers. Textile testing is used to check the quality and suitability of raw materials and aid in their selection, monitor production, assess the final product, investigate faulty material, and during product research and development. QC instruments, software and test methods have never been more important throughout the textile supply chain.

It is worth mentioning the increased number of digital solutions— many presented at the show — to help manage resource use and minimize waste, perform continuous online QC, and carry out automatic fault detection and predictive maintenance. The machinery and software presented at the show reduces the need for physical prototypes by way of virtual design software, simulation tools and digital replicas that facilitate testing and QC. Software solutions —either stand-alone or integrated into machinery — were more present at ITMA 2023 than in previous editions of the show. Machine learning and generative artificial intelligence (AI) may be the next frontier in testing and QC of textile materials.

The article covers the latest developments and advancements in testing and quality control technologies for fibers, yarns and fabrics presented by exhibitors at ITMA 2023 in five separate areas — fiber and yarn measurement, fabric performance testing, color measurement and communication, tactile measurement, and QC measurement.

Fiber And Yarn Measurement

Germany-based Textechno GmbH & Co. — represented in the United States by Greenville, S.C.-based Measured Solutions Inc. —presented its latest innovations at ITMA 2023, including several testing devices for fibers, yarns, nonwovens and fabrics. Two of these innovations are a new weak spot tester for spun yarns; and a modular testing system, which determines the quality parameters of recycled fibers, including fibers from post-industrial and post-consumer waste, regardless of their color, blending or chemical treatment.

The increasing importance of work safety as well as new demands for testing reinforcement fibers motivated Textechno to develop a new electronic wrap reel, the Texreel. It is applicable to textile yarns as well as technical yarns and reinforcement fibers used in composites such as car-bon fiber tows and glass fiber rovings. As part of the new ITMA chapter “Composites,” Textechno demonstrated the Fimatest testing system for fiber/matrix adhesion and for the characterization of roving and tow properties. The system consists of the Fimabond embedding station and a clamping accessory to the Favimat+. Information about the dynamics of the bonding process is provided through a new feature of the Fimatest, via contact angle measurements.

Additionally, the company exhibited the latest generation of its Favimat+ and Statimat DS testers. Favimat+ Airbot 2 is an automatic linear density and tensile tester for single fibers used to test various types of fibers, including high molecular weight polyethylene, glass, carbon and aramid, and is considered among the most important test devices with its structure combining six single-fiber test methods. For this device, since Textechno has already successfully entered the market of testing reinforcement fibers such as glass or carbon fiber, the company also presented an integrated measurement of fiber conductivity that is especially interesting in the field of smart textiles. Covafil+, designed by Textechno for filament yarns, was also on display. Compatible with MDTA 4, Covafil+ is identified as a reliable quality control system that can be adjusted to various applications, ensuring that all yarn parameters are tested at the same time.

Statimat DS, another innovation exhibited at Textechno’s stand, offers a new series of automatic tension tests, including tensile, shear, evenness and yarn count measurement, which are the most important four test methods of textile yarns and threads. Beside these machines, Textechno also introduced the MDTA 4, a micro-dust, trash and fiber-length tester, part of its Fibre Classifying System. The MDTA 4 works by processing raw cotton from the bale, providing data relating to impurities such as neps, trash, dust and fiber fragment content. The MDTA 4 can be used to determine the stickiness of raw cotton. For precise analysis of the number and size of impurities, it can also be combined with the NTDA module.

Lenzing Instrument’s ACW600

Another well-known manufacturer of textile testing equipment, Lenzing Instruments GmbH & Co. KG, Austria, provided a detailed insight into its comprehensive range of testing equipment for online, at-line and laboratory applications. In line with sustainability being a key theme for the textile industry at ITMA, these resource saving factors connected to QC with Lenzing Instruments also contribute to greener production processes. The company presented solutions for enhanced testing efficiency, reproducibility and accuracy, including the ACW 600/DVA, the DTI 600, the Rapid 600 and Sess. These systems enable yarn bobbins to be tested for linear density (dtex, denier) —using the ACW 600/DVA; for molecular orientation via the DTI 600, as well as for entanglement of flat and industrial yarn shortly after the last production step. Used together with the highly automated sampling system Sess, these ASTM standardized at-line testing instruments can decisively contribute to quick reactions to any detected quality issues. Additionally, intended for high-volume offline detection of filament yarn defects such as broken filaments and fluff, the company presented its Elkometer 200. Equipped with a customized number of Prompt Olo optical defect detection sensors, the system enables simultaneous defect inspection of up to eight yarn bobbins.

Italy-based MESDAN S.p.A. offered a comprehensive range of testing equipment for physical analysis, dyeing, and finishing assessment. At ITMA, MESDAN displayed its solutions in the spinning hall on the VANDEWIELE stand and at the Thermetrics booth. Highlights from the company included a new mechatronic splicer for the Savio Proxima machine; two novel cotton fiber testing systems — the CONTEST-F2 for high volume cotton fiber testing and the CONTEST-S, a cotton stickiness tester; and the LAB SHREDDING MACHINE, a new laboratory scale equipment for textile mechanical recycling. The latest shredding machine complements its well-known Mini-Spinning line, extending Mesdan’s applications in one of the most important trends — textile recycling.

Switzerland-based Uster Technologies AG introduced its latest product for fabric inspection. The company presented solutions based on automation and artificial intelligence, which are now integrated in its innovative fabric inspection technologies. The company attracted attention at the show for its new 360Q integrated solution suite, which combines instrumentation, software and support services for better decision making in the mill. The company has observed that many mills do not have enough personnel resources, and considering the fact that the number of textile graduates is insufficient, automation will simplify mills’ work. Uster’s 360Q presented a solution suite to enable the mill to be more successful, meaning it can make better-informed decisions that have a real impact on profits.

For fabric quality management, a component of the 360Q suite is the Uster Fabriq Assistant, a central platform for automated processing, analysis and visualization of quality data from Uster fabric inspection systems. The application is a Web-based tool with individual user accounts and specific dashboards. The Assistant eliminates manual data processing and speeds up decision processes significantly. Fabric manufacturers can release their product for delivery automatically based on their specific business rules without any humans in the loop, which eliminates bottlenecks and increases productivity. The application can also show a summary of quality performance from all the fabric rolls ever inspected in the mill. Information is presented as a variety of statistical analysis tools, with results in different charts, histograms or evolution trends. Fabriq Assistant uses advanced technologies such as AI. The AI attaches codes to each image generated by the Uster Fabriq Vision products, eliminating the need of mill personnel to spend time and effort, inserting codes to each defect in a computer to carry out a data review. Data classification — AI Classification — is fully automated with the use of AI, so producers can save more than 80 percent of the time taken when using manual methods.

The company also launched a new edition of Uster Statistics, a globally accepted quality benchmark for industry-wide quality improvement, which now includes a section for recycled yarn. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fiber data, supporting sustainability goals. The challenge in this area is the spinning of recycled yarns. Uster Statistics aims to facilitate spinners transforming their mills to a more sustainable future, as spinning yarn blends of virgin and recycled fibers is a much bigger challenge than any other commonly used blend.

Italy-based Tomsic S.r.l., active in the production and marketing of complete laboratory equipment for spinning mills and autoleveller systems for cards and drawframes, showcased its new innovation — the Tomsic Nep & Trash Tester — designed to facilitate the control and tuning of fiber parameters in spinning mills. The company is trying to reduce electricity consumption in its products. The tester offers spinners control technology, simplicity of operation, flexibility and low maintenance costs, according to Tomsic. The company also presented its Evenness tester and the TensoTester3 strength tester, as well as other laboratory equipment for spinning mills.

Atlas Ci3000+

Fabric Performance Testing

Among the companies with solutions to test fabric performance, Atlas Material Testing Technology, Mount Prospect, Ill. — a provider of accelerated lightfastness testing instruments and services for the textile industry — showcased its Ci3000+ Fade-Ometer® and Xenotest® 440 instruments. With Atlas weathering instruments, users can closely simulate real-world exposure to sunlight, temperature and moisture under accelerated conditions, allowing them to quickly and accurately predict product service life.
The Ci3000+ Fade-Ometer is widely considered the benchmark instrument for weathering and light-fastness testing of textiles. It has an advanced digital control system and optical technologies for reliable control of all test parameters, providing accurate prediction of textile products’ service life. The instrument features a large and intuitive graphical user interface, WXView. Also, for textile weathering tests, the Xenotest 440 is a compact, high-performance xenon-arc instrument with an ultrasonic humidifier to reduce water consumption, up to 4,000-hour lamp service life, and capable of simultaneous testing of more than 200 samples and meeting global lightfastness and weathering standards, including AATCC, ISO, Marks & Spencer and GB/T.

England-based SDC Enterprises (SDCE), with a newly designed logo and brand refresh, used ITMA 2023 in Milan to launch two new products — the PVC Sensor Film for testing BS EN ISO Standard 9185:2007 and the Reference 7 Wool Liquid Detergent, in line with the updated version of ISO Standard 6330:2021. These two products add to SDCE’s range of products for color fastness, lightfastness and physical testing for QC of textiles at international BS, EN and ISO Standards. The exhibit included Martindale consumables, detergents, grey scales, blue wools, and SDCE’s signature Multifiber for guaranteed consistency in the quality control of textiles.

In addition to its fiber testing equipment, Mesdan also presented three new yarn and fabric testing solutions: AUTOFIL, a high speed, fully automatic, 24-position yarn strength tester that can also test threads, hanks and fabrics in the semi-automatic mode; AUTODYN 3, a single-position, automatic version tensile strength tester for fibers, yarns, hanks and fabrics that incorporates an automatic yarn loading system; and BURSTMATIC, a pneumatic bursting tester to determine the bursting resistance of woven and knitted fabrics, nonwovens, and cardboard.

Rock Hill, S.C.-based SDL Atlas presented its extensive offering in consumables for QC. In addition to many core performance textiles testers, like the MMT moisture tester, DryRate 201 for the determination of dry rates, and FTT for skin touch property measurements, the company displayed next generation versions of its HydroPro, a hydrostatic head tester; AirPerm, an air permeability tester for paper, textiles and nonwovens; and Vortex Plus, a multiple-wash simulator machine.

England-based James Heal, a PPT Group brand centered in material testing, focused its presence at ITMA on innovations related to testing protective clothing and personal protective equipment. Continued development of textile testing equipment has been driven by global growth in more advanced protective wear, particularly for military and emergency services sectors. Initially launched at ITMA 2019, the company showcased developments in the James Heal Performance Testing Range line of instruments. Among them were the WickView, a tester for moisture wicking behavior in fabric; Aquabrasion, for analysis of effects of wet abrasion to better replicate real-life wear situations; and TruRain, a sustainable water repellency tester able to recycle water and cutting waste by 99 percent. In particular, WickView has moved ahead of the current test standard for moisture wicking behavior in fabric. James Heal is working with the industry to establish new standards in this area of textile testing after it developed its own test methods.

England-based Roaches International — a globally recognized manufacturer and supplier of laboratory dyeing, finishing equipment and textile performance testing instruments— introduced its IR Bonder, a vertical infrared bonding and chemical application line consisting of a single end bond applicator and infrared curing chamber with extremely low electrical consumption. The IR Bonder is integrated with a single head winder and, in addition to textile industry, has a potentially broad range of application markets including the automotive and medical sectors. Its drying mechanism simulates current coating technology and standard winding equipment to bond sewing threads by applying a nylon terpolymer, which is applied in a solution form. The system has a running speed of up to 600 meters per minute to process narrow width yarns or textiles on as many as six lanes.

GESTER International Co. Ltd., China, presented the GT-C13B-6 Martindale Abrasion Pilling Tester, offering precise evaluation of fabric pilling resistance, which is the standard method of determining the wear resistance of textiles or leather and the resistance to pilling. The company also displayed its GT-C02-1, a precisely calibrated tester to determine the tensile strength and elongation of fabrics. Also on display was equipment for waterproof test-ing of fabrics, hood fabric, tarpaulin, rainproof fabrics and geotextiles; the highly efficient GT-C26B hydrostatic pressure bursting tester; mask synthetic blood penetration tester, the GT-RA01, exclusively designed to test the blood penetration resistance of masks; the GT-C09 vertical tensile button tensing machine, which can perform even and vertical tensile test of all kinds of buttons on garments; and two circular sample cutters —the GT-C75 and GT-C75-3.

In the area of smart textile testing, China-based ChiuVention presented a number of instruments including its SmartTexLab smart lab management system, which is the first of its kind in the textile industry. This smart system efficiently digitally links multiple smart textile testing instruments and sample preparation equipment using multiple technologies like IoT automation, RFID, AI or vision detection. With this software, customers can easily control, obtain and share test results by installing the company’s SmartTexLab app on their cell phones. This is in line with the Sustainability and Circularity topic at ITMA, as textile labs can achieve automatic sample identification, automatic sample cutting, and automatic transmission of test results for the same sample and instrument, and then, after the test, a summary report can be quickly shared online to the quality control department or customer.

In addition to the SmartTexLab, and among the most popular of its nine instruments showcased, the company showed its SmartShrink Rate Tester. The machine is used to automatically calculate the shrinkage rate of a particular textile product, using visual automation to capture warp and weft data of the textile before and after shrinkage rate testing. The process can be done in seconds, reducing human error and improving the efficiency of this process in textile factories.

Q Lab Corp., Westlake, Ohio, showcased its accelerated weathering and lightfastness testers. The varied versions of the Q-SUN testers use xenon arc lamps, which provide the best match to the full spectrum of sunlight and rain, and can reproduce the damage that occurs over months or years in outdoor environments. The company also presented its QUV, an accelerated weathering tester to measure UV damage in textiles. The QUV tester’s fluorescent lamps simulate short-wave ultraviolet (UV) rays, reproducing the physical damage caused by sunlight, which can include color change, gloss loss, blistering, embrittlement and strength loss, and oxidation, among other damage. The test chamber includes a condensation system that simulates dew, accelerating its effect using elevated temperatures.

Editor’s Note: Dr. Kavita Mathur is an associate professor in the department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, at Raleigh, N.C.-based NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles. This article was adapted for Textile World from a paper by Dr. Mathur published in the NC State Wilson College of Textiles’ Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management (JTATM). Part two of this article will appear in an upcoming issue of TW.

January/February 2024

SGS Announces Expansion Of Fire Safety Testing Services

FARMINGDALE, N.Y. — February 13, 2024 — SGS, a testing, inspection and certification company, is delighted to announce the expansion of fire safety, resistance and flammability testing services at its laboratory in Farmingdale, New York, USA.

Within the framework of ISO/IEC 17025:2017 accreditation, the laboratory’s team of experts has been successful in expanding and enhancing its scope to incorporate accredited testing for:

  • Aviation and automotive:
    • Aerospace – power plant flame penetration – test methods BSS 7338
    • Airplane interiors – FAA Part 25 Chapter 12, AITM 2.0056, BSS 7387, FAA Part 25 Appendix F Part Vll
  • Building materials:
    • Test methods ASTM E2768, CAN/ULC-S102 and CAN/ULC S102.2, NFPA 262
  • Furnishings, carpets and textiles:
    • Drapery/decorative materials – test method BS 5867-2, ISO 15025, ISO 6941
  • Wire and cables:
    • Product development – UL 1581 Section 1080 VW-1
  •  Analytical new section on scope:
    • Test methods ASTM D92, ISO 2592, ASTM D93, IP 34, ISO 2719, ISO 15267

Bobby Brown, Director of Operations and Business Development, SGS said: “This welcome expansion of our scope is testament to our commitment to providing exceptional services to our clients. Our team of experts has worked diligently to incorporate the new tests, enhance existing methodologies, and leverage innovative technologies.

SGS Farmingdale – Apparatus used for flammability testing

“The broader capability builds on our expertise and SGS’s 2017 acquisition of Govmark Testing Services to ensure that our clients, from the aviation to textile sectors, receive the highest level of service. In the end, it’s only trusted because it’s tested.”

SGS’s laboratory is recognized by various US Code agencies, state authorities, international organizations and industry leaders, including the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), Federal Railroad Administration (FRA), and International Maritime Organization (IMO).

Effective from January 2024, the expanded range of flammability testing capabilities will ensure SGS is best placed to support its domestic and international clients to meet national and international regulations and requirements demanded across a multitude of industry sectors.

SGS flammability testing

SGS can perform a comprehensive range of tests in the domains of fire resistance of a product or a system (structural and material integrity, stability, insulation during a fire exposure) and reaction to fire/flammability for materials (behavior when exposed to a flame or heat radiation).

These include:

  • Furniture, furnishings, textiles and mattresses
  • Plastics, films and composites
  • Building materials
  • Wires and cables
  • Interior materials for railcar and civil aviation operators

Physical testing solutions include abrasion testing and analysis against standards enforced by:

  • Association for Contract Textiles (ACT)
  • Industrial Fabrics Association International

Comprehensive fire testing solutions cover:

  • Flammability
  • Ignitability
  • Resistance to flame/ignition
  • Burning behavior/characteristics
  • Fire classification
  • Heat release
  • Smoke toxicity & density
  • Emissions
  • Tests under fire conditions
  • Flame propagation

Posted: February 13, 2024

Source: SGS

Advanced Planning & Scheduling Systems

A look at the latest software developments in advanced  planning systems on display at ITMA 2023.

By Dr. Kristin A. Thoney-Barletta

ITMA 2023 featured a wide range of software technologies from companies located throughout the world. Software ran the gamut, but this article focuses primarily on advanced planning and scheduling systems (APS) showcased at ITMA 2023. In contrast to an ITMA review written after the 2019 ITMA show (see “Supply Chain Management Software For Textile Networks,” TW, September/October 2020) that provided an overview of 10 APS systems, this article compares the features of APS systems featured at ITMA 2023, presents developments in those systems over the past two to three years, and provides information on what company representatives feel are the key differentiating factors of their software.

Companies included in this article appeared in ITMA’s Index of Products in category 15.3.2 — “Software systems for Supply Chain Management (SCM) in textile networks” and/or 15.3.3, “Software for Enterprise resource Planning [ERP], Product Lifecycle Management [PLM], and Production Planning and Scheduling [PPS].”

Details Of APS Software Packages

All the software packages discussed here offer the ability to provide detailed capacity planning, and also can generate detailed production schedules to help meet customer due dates and minimize costs over one or more factories. Most of the company representatives who were interviewed considered their company’s software to be an ERP system, a Manufacturing Execution System (MES), a Quality Management System (QMS), a Warehouse Management System (WMS), and a Customer Relationship Management (CRM) system (See Table 1). Only some of the representatives considered the software to be a PLM system. This is not surprising, since PLM systems are designed to manage product development, while APS systems focus on managing production. Only Italy-based Retelit S.p.A., the developer of Just MES manufacturing execution system, did not consider its software to be an ERP system.

Company representatives also were asked about the types of textiles processes and industries in which their software package is implemented. Table 2 displays the process results, while Table 3 reveals the findings regarding the industries. The tables show that all of the software systems have been implemented in a wide range of processes and industries. Software was least commonly implemented in nonwovens processes and footwear.

To provide information about system capability updates since the article from ITMA 2019 was published, the company representatives were asked what changes and additions were incorporated into their software over the past two to three years. Company representatives were also asked what differentiates their software from that of their competitors and what their customers tell them about why they chose their software over alternatives. The answers to these questions follow. The sections are grouped by the primary regions in which the software is implemented to allow the reader to focus on the regions in which they are most interested in APS software implementation.

Austria, Germany, Switzerland

Halo GmbH – inteos®, Germany: Klaus Kreutzberg of Kreutzberg Consulting, a Halo Business Partner, said that new features of inteos include the ability to control machines with mobile devices. A primary differentiator of inteos compared to its competitors is that inteos can track all materials used and can therefore sup-port the identification of an optimized reuse of the raw material. Kreutzberg says that customers choose inteos because Halo knows how a textile company thinks, helps to analyze its customer’s process and can customize its software if required.

France And Other Parts Of Europe

Schaeffer Productique, France: Olivier Heitz, technical manager, said that the latest version of Schaeffer Productique is fully Web-based, there is now workflow to manage fashion, and artificial intelligence has been added into the ability to change the scheduling rules. Key company differentiators include Schaeffer Productique’s ability to communicate about textiles and that the software is already used in textile factories. Heitz said that customers choose Schaeffer Productique because the company speaks the same language as most of its customers — French and German — and employs many textile engineers.
Italy

Computer House S.r.l., Italy: Paolo Langé, engineer at Computer House, said that Computer House® has added artificial intelligence into its software, including new functions to provide better production plans. Computer House’s experience over the past 30 years is what differentiates it from competitors. Langé said customers choose its software because Computer House continually improves its product and shares implementation of new features requested by one customer with other customers. In addition, Computer House is always willing to listen to its customers and react to customer requests.

Interlem GP Omega, Italy: CEO Andrea Picone said that Interlem GP Omega is now a completely Web-based software. It uses a new scheduling system called Net@Pro, in partnership with another company, and Interlem GP Omega also includes a new ERP version. In addition, a new Gantt chart-based procedure helps detect the source of problems. Picone believes that Interlem GP Omega’s scheduling is better than that of its competitors. The lower price and flexibility of Interlem GP Omega’s solution are other reasons he thinks that their customers choose Interlem GP Omega.

Worldwide

AREL, Australia: According to Michael Sakowicz, project manager, Arel has added business intelligence into its software, which allows companies to better meet a company’s key performance indicators. The strategy of how Arel works — taking a template and customizing it to the customer’s processes and business — is what differentiates it from competitors. Sakowicz believes that its customers choose Arel over alternatives because it can quickly change the software in reaction to the customer’s needs.

Datatex®, a global company with offices in Alpharetta, Ga.: Shannon McCarthy, head of Business Development & Administration Americas, said that Datatex® has updated its user interface, and its ERP module now has some finite capacity planning and scheduling. Datatex now also offers a finance module and a mobile sales app. Key differentiators of Datatex include strong scheduling, excellent transferability, and bottom up and actual costing. In addition, there is fairly limited customization in Datatex implementations because the software has so much functionality and this makes it easier to upgrade customer’s software with new releases. McCarthy believes that customers choose Datatex because it is proven, the company knows their customers’ manufacturing processes, and the software looks modern and is modern.

Just MES, Italy: Just MES used to be owned by Up Solutions, but now is owned by the Retelit Group. Lucrezia Rivetti, sales back office specialist, said that Just MES has added automatic planning capability and now includes machine learning algorithms to help companies analyze their processes. Differentiators of Just MES over its competitors include lower cost, ease of use and implementation, and that it is ERP independent. Rivetti said that customers appreciate that they do not have to explain textile processes to Just MES contacts at the Retelit Group because these contacts are very experienced with textile operations.

Porini S.r.l., Italy: Thorsten Steiert, a consultant at b4dynamics— an IT/ERP consulting company that works with Porini — said that Porini offers a complete system. Key differentiators are that Porini is based on the Microsoft Dynamics 365 system, it has cloud functionality, and when new features are added to the Microsoft system, Porini also can offer these capabilities. Steiert believes that customers choose Porini since it works with all kinds of textiles and textile processes and is very flexible.

Conclusions

There have been many changes to APS software over the past two to three years. Some company representatives said that its software now includes some mobile device capabilities. A few companies said that its software is now fully Web-based. Several mentioned that they have included artificial intelligence and business intelligence within their software solution.

With regards to factors that differentiate the software and why representatives believe customers choose their software over their competitors, many highlighted their company’s knowledge of textile process. In addition, many representatives also emphasized that its system has been developed to be used with textile processes, which means less cus-tomization is required. These advantages speak to why a textile company might want to choose an APS system that focuses on the textile industry rather than a general APS system.

APS company representatives also mentioned many other differentia-tors and reasons customers choose its system. Better scheduling was mentioned by a few representatives, as was lower cost. Some discussed cultural factors, like language knowledge or competency of area business practices. However, the reason most commonly given by company repre-sentatives was its responsiveness to customer requests.

Choosing the correct APS system is difficult. This paper provides a high-level comparison of potential options to help textile companies begin to narrow down possibilities.

Editor’s Note: Editor’s Note: Dr. Kristin A. Thoney Barletta is professor, associ-ate head & director of Undergraduate Programs in the Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management Depart-ment at NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles. This article was adapted for TTWW from a paper by Dr. Barletta pub-lished in the NC State Wilson College of Textiles’ Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management (JTATM).

January/February 2024

Hawk Ridge Systems And DyeMansion Forge New Partnership To Bring End-Use Parts To Market

MOUNTAIN VIEW, Calif. — February 13, 2024 — Hawk Ridge Systems and DyeMansion form a strategic partnership to bring more high-quality 3D printing post-processing solutions to multi jet fusion (MJF) customers, additive manufacturers and sustainability creators. Together, the companies will continue to develop an innovative future in additive manufacturing worldwide.

For nearly 30 years, Hawk Ridge Systems has served the U.S. and Canadian markets as a leading provider of design-to-manufacturing solutions, from engineering and manufacturing software to 3D printers and scanners. DyeMansion is the global leader, serving over 46 countries, in 3D-printing post-processing solutions that turn raw 3D-printed powder-bed fusion parts into high-quality products with its industrial 3D-finishing technologies.

“DyeMansion offers impressive post-processing finishing technologies that change how our customers can develop end-use parts. This partnership will provide our MJF customers with more sustainable, high-quality opportunities as they continue innovating into the future,” said Dale Ford, President and CEO of Hawk Ridge Systems. “We are excited to continue future-proofing our additive manufacturing customers with DyeMansion.”

DyeMansion’s core values include creating technology for the future and sustainable post-processing production methods. Its products provide flexible solutions for small batches and high-volume needs for industrial factories.

Hawk Ridge Systems’ integrated-solution portfolio will now include the complete Print-to-Product workflow with the products — Powershot C, Powershot S, DM60 and Powerfuse S.

The Powershot C and Powershot S offer customers automated depowdering, easy and efficient part cleaning, smoother finished parts and high-quality part surfaces. The DM60 provides customers with the widest range of color options for gray and white base material available today. With the Powerfuse S, customers can experience the only green vapor polishing solution for highly industrial manufacturing that reduces the costs per part due to high levels of automation and a closed-loop system.

“We are thrilled to join forces with Hawk Ridge Systems and welcome them as our newest Platinum Sales Partner in North America,” said Kai Witter, Chief Customer Officer at DyeMansion. “This partnership not only strengthens our network but also underlines our shared commitment to deliver state-of-the-art post-processing solutions to customers across the United States. We look forward to working closely together with the Hawk Ridge Systems team to bring end-use parts to the market, no matter the application or industry.”

Hawk Ridge Systems also offers HP, Markforged and Formlabs 3D printing technologies; Artec and Creaform 3D scanners; and Dassault Systèmes solutions, including SOLIDWORKS, 3DEXPERIENCE and CAMWorks manufacturing software. In addition to software and hardware solutions, the company has other business growth services, including end-to-end manufacturing options with A3D Manufacturing, instructor-led training courses and resources for its products, and on-demand video tutorials on SolidProfessor’s highly engaging learning environment.

Posted: February 13, 2024

Source: Hawk Ridge Systems

ALLIED Feather + Down Ramps Up RENU:TRACE Program Through Partnership With NEMO Equipment

MONTEBELLO, Calif. — February 13, 2024 — ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), global suppliers of high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, is proud to officially ramp up their one of a kind RENU:TRACE recycled down program with the help of NEMO’s Endless PromiseÒ circular product collection. NEMO will be the first brand to utilize ALLIED’s industry leading recycling program to fuel the world’s first fully traceable recycled down insulation.

All ALLIED down is 100 percent ethically sourced and traceable back to the region where it was produced, and is therefore the ideal down material for their RENU:TRACE program. When NEMO’s Endless Promise down sleeping bags reach the end of their lifespan, ALLIED will fully recycle them and funnel the insulation into RENU:TRACE, the first and only fully circular and traceable recycled down insulation.

“Recyclable and naturally biodegradable, down is one of the most sustainable insulations on the planet and plays an important role in a circular economy,” said Daniel Uretsky, president with ALLIED. “We launched our RENU:TRACE program in November, 2022, understanding the importance of ensuring animal welfare through traceable recycled down. We are excited to see the realization of RENU:TRACE’s potential within the NEMO Endless Promise program.”

Unless traceable down is both sourced and recycled in a closed loop, it is virtually impossible to ensure that any recycled down comes from purely ethical sources. Before RENU:TRACE, brands had to make a decision to either focus on post-consumer recycled material OR ethically treated animals.

For Spring 2024, NEMO’s top-selling down sleeping bags will be part of the fully recyclable Endless Promise Collection. The Disco™ and Riff™ Spoon™ shape sleeping bags, and the brand-new mummy-style Coda™ all incorporate technical features like next-generation Thermo Gill™ vents for fine-tuned temperature control; waterproof hood and footbox fabrics; and PFAS-free, RDS-certified ALLIED down fill. In addition to being made from recycled fabrics, each bag is 100-percent recyclable to stay out of the landfill at the end of its life.

While NEMO is the first to participate, the RENU:TRACE program is available to all of ALLIED’s partner brands.

Posted: February 13, 2024

Source: ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D

INDCO Gear Drive Bracket Mount Drum Mixers Are Ideal For Viscous Materials  

NEW ALBANY, Ind. — February 13, 2024 — INDCO presents their BM-series gear drive bracket mount mixers for medium to heavy viscosity materials in 30-to-55-gallon drums. An adjustable mounting bracket fits steel drums from 18” to 31” in diameter, and tightens to the drum with a hand knob, so no tools are required. Available with air, electric, or variable speed electric drive, totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC), or totally enclosed non-ventilated (TENV) motors from 1/2 to 4 HP.

Electric variable speed models feature a controller mounted on and prewired directly to the motor. Single phase TEFC models are equipped with cord, plug, and switch. Sturdy 5/8-inch by 30-inch stainless steel shaft size is fitted with one or two axial impellers with size and number matched to the HP of the unit.  All wetted parts are stainless steel for chemical resistance. INDCO BM series mixers are ideal for a variety of medium to heavy viscosity materials.

BM-series mixers are manufactured in INDCO’s New Albany factory and typically ship within two business days. Contact factory for details.

Located in New Albany, Ind., INDCO is a manufacturer of industrial mixers.  Since 1975 it has designed and manufactured a completed lineup of mixers for batch sizes up to 50,000 gallons. They use premium brand components in their robust designs to deliver high quality mixers that earn their customer’s trust. In addition to premier equipment, INDCO prides itself on providing fast, friendly customer service and immediate technical support. Full information is available on their comprehensive website, www.INDCO.com

Posted: February 13, 2024

Source: INDCO

Atlas S³T: Bridging The Gap In Weathering Testing Precision

MOUNT PROSPECT, Illinois — February 13, 2024 — Introducing the Atlas S³T system – the latest advancement from the leader in accelerated artificial and natural weathering testing. Designed for the flagship Weather-Ometer® Ci4400 and Ci5000 instruments, the Atlas S³T system makes it possible for the first time to continuously measure the specific surface temperature of individual samples during live testing.

Surface temperature is a critical factor for the rate of photochemical reactions in weathering. But until now, the measurement of surface temperatures has not been feasible for multiple samples in laboratory weathering instruments. The result has been that surface temperature is often neglected during testing or only roughly estimated based on black and white standard or panel reference temperatures.

At the core of the S³T system is an integrated, contactless IR pyrometer, which accurately and precisely measures and assigns the surface temperature of each specimen and can operate continuously during the complete exposure.

The S³T system allows for:

  • Better reproduction of natural conditions, such as heat uptake and color distribution
  • Better control of test parameters to avoid overheating of specimens
  • Continuous tracing of the specific sample temperature, allowing for the immediate detection of property changes, such as darkening, without disruption of the test
  • Investigation of specific sample characteristics, such as activation energies of photochemical degradation reactions, for cool pigments, IR-reflective coatings and heat and light stabilizers.

The Atlas S³T system is available now for the Ci4400 and Ci5000 Weather-Ometers. For more information, visit atlas-mts.com.

Posted: February 13, 2024

Source: Atlas Material Testing Technology GmbH

BASF, Inditex Announce loopamid® Nylon 6 Development

Germany-based BASF and Spain-based fashion brand Inditex have announced the launch
of loopamid®, a recycled nylon 6 (polyamid 6 or PA6) comprised of 100-percent textile waste. BASF has devised a circular solution for nylon apparel that permits blends of post-industrial and post-consumer waste — such as nylon and elastane — to be recycled in a textile-to-textile process over multiple cycles. According to BASF, the properties of the resulting nylon are identical to those of virgin nylon.

Inditex brand Zara has introduced a 100-percent loopamid jacket featuring loopamid in all components — including the fabric, buttons, filling, hooks and loops, and zipper. To make this happen, Zara partnered with other companies — including RadiciGroup, Velcro,YKK, Gütermann and Freudenberg, among other companies — to integrate loopamid into the garment components.

“BASF has reached an important milestone towards circularity in the fashion industry and pioneered an approach to close the loop for nylon textiles,” said Dr. Ramkumar Dhruva, president of BASF’s Monomers division.“ …We are in the process of scaling up our technology to serve our customers with commercial quantities. The capsule jacket together with Inditex is the proof that circularity is possible, and we are eager to further drive the sustainable transformation of the textile industry.”

“This collaboration is a great example of how, by collaborating all together, we can use the new technology to transform textile waste into a new resource,” said Javier Losada, Inditex’s chief sustainability officer. “This project is also a first step to move towards a circular solution, as the industry still needs to boost new collecting and recycling capacities in order to close the loop and scale recycling for post-consumer waste.”

January/February 2024

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