Hurricane Floyd Disrupts U.S. Economic Activity


Hurricane Floyd Reduces Utility Output; Factory Output Down After
August Rise

Industrial production declined 0.3 percent in September, as Hurricane Floyd reduced utility
output and held back motor vehicle production and other goods. But even after adjusting for the
hurricane, the industrial output gain would have been small compared to increases of 0.4 percent in
August and 0.6 percent in July.

Factory output was down 0.2 percent after rising 0.5 percent in August. In the third quarter,
industrial output grew 3.7 percent at an annual rate, nearly matching the second quarter pace. The
operating rate of industrial capacity eased to 80.3 percent in September from 80.7 percent in
August.

The U.S. trade deficit of goods and services narrowed in August to $24.10 billion from $24.89
billion in July. Exports shot up 3.7 percent to $82.03 billion, up for the third month in a row,
while imports advanced 2.0 percent to $106.12 billion.

Business sales surged 1.3 percent in August, as durable goods sales jumped 1.5 percent on top
of a 1.0-percent rise in July. Non-durable goods shipments grew 1.1 percent. Business inventories
rose 0.3 percent. As a result, the August inventory-to-sales ratio dipped to 1.32 from 1.34 in
July.  

p19a_1796


Financial Markets Are Uneasy With The Federal Reserve Leaning Toward
Further Tightening

The evidence from latest set of economic reports is that the American economy, after two
interest rate hikes, is beginning to slow down. While the latest inflation readings appear to be
excessive there is no broad-based increase in prices. Nevertheless, with the Federal Reserve
leaning toward further tightening, financial markets are uneasy.

While economic activity and hiring was disrupted by Hurricane Floyd in the East Coast, the
loss of 8,000 nonfarm payrolls in September and the creation of only 103,000 jobs in August is a
clear indication of a slowing economy.

It is estimated that without the hurricane, nonfarm employment would have risen by 50,000
jobs in September. This is a major pullback from the dizzying pace of 654,000 jobs added in June
and July. Factory jobs continued to decline in September, falling by 21,000 jobs and bringing the
loss to 532,000 in the last year and a half period. The September jobless rate at 4.2 percent was
unchanged from August.

The Producer Price Index for finished goods shot up 1.1 percent in September, the largest
gain in nine years. Excluding energy, food, tobacco and automobiles, the price index was up just
one-tenth of a percent, hardly a sign of widespread price acceleration.

Consumer prices rose 0.4 percent in August. Energy costs accounted for 1/4 of the rise. The
core inflation was 0.3 percent after rising just 0.1 percent in August.


Textile Payrolls Fall After August Increase; Output Remains Slightly
Below Last Year’s Numbers

The textile industry’s payrolls fell 0.3 percent in September after edging up 0.1 percent in
August. The volatile jobless rate for textile mill workers dropped to 3.4 percent from 5.2 percent
in August.

Textile output rose 0.3 percent in September. Despite strong U.S. economic activity textile
output remained slightly below the year ago level. The utilization rate for textiles improved to
82.8 percent of capacity from 82.5 percent in August. Shipments by textile producers declined 1.0
percent, giving back most of the 1.5-percent gain in July. Inventories increased 0.3 percent. The
August inventory-to-sales ratio rose to 1.55 from 1.53.

U.S. retail sales rose just 0.1 percent in September after surging 1.5 percent in August, the
largest gain in six months. Excluding autos, retail sales were strong, rising 0.6 percent. At
apparel and accessory stores, sales fell 0.9 percent. For the third quarter, total retail sales
were up by a startling 10.5 percent from a year ago.

Producer prices of textiles and apparel edged up 0.1 percent in September, reversing declines
for five straight months.

Prices moved up 0.4 percent for gray fabrics and rose 0.1 percent for finished fabrics and
carpets. Prices declined 0.2 percent for processed yarns and threads.

p19b_1795

November 1999

Cotton Season Interesting


T
he jury is still out on how the cotton crop was affected by the combination of high
temperatures, low rainfall and Hurricane Floyd. There is some concern in the industry as to staple
length, particularly for the Delta cottons.

According to a respondent in this area, initial tests report that the staple length is
somewhat shorter than normal for Delta cotton while the micronaire in most areas is above the base
of 34. An exception in Memphis which is running slightly below the base at 33.6.

The demand for ring-spun yarns continues according to most spinners. So much so that one
spinner said: “This market is stronger than I’ve seen it in years, and this holds true for both
single and plied yarns. If this demand continues, I anticipate an increase in ring-spun yarn prices
in the immediate future. As a matter of fact, we have already increased ring-spun yarn prices in
certain cases.”


Still In Pits

The area of most concern to virtually every cotton spinner is the open-end (OE) yarn market.

The most encouraging note came from one such spinner who said: “At least the pricing for this
product has not deteriorated any further and seems to have stabilized. Our volume is good for OE
yarns but we are still looking for ways to make money from it.”

This is the feeling of many spinners of OE yarns. This spinner went on to say: “If we can get
some of this low-priced cotton, we may be able to make some money next year.” Customers want a
lower price now because cotton prices are low.


Cotton 101

Speaking of low-priced cotton brings up a point mentioned by many spinners when discussing this
subject. Many customers and nearly none of the retailers realize the diversity of cotton in all of
its physical properties. In other words, cotton isn’t just cotton.

For a spinner to get a commitment for the cotton he needs to produce his product, he must
contract for the quality and quantity he needs well in advance of when he needs it. That
essentially means he can’t go to the market place and buy the grades of cotton he requires today at
any price. His commitment must be made at the time (and price) the grade is available. The cotton
market isn’t like the yarn market where you as a customer can make a spot purchase at 30 to 50
cents off of the market price.


Start-Up Yarn

One spinner of open-end yarns said: “ There’s a category of yarn known as ‘start-up yarn.’ Now
what I want to know is how can you make a start-up yarn for six months. If it takes you that long
to start up a spinning frame, you better get out of the business now.”

He went on to say: “Some people in this business are getting pretty desperate. To show you
how desperate — they will quote a small-volume customer the lower prices usually reserved for the
large-volume buyer. They are essentially taking more business at lower prices in the hope of
getting more business.

“I’m concerned, too, about the bankers who are in so deep to some of these mills that they
are afraid to pull the plug, and the bankers I know are quite concerned about the condition of this
industry. Some of these spinners cannot even service their debt, yet they continue to make yarn for
spot sales.”

Apparently there are some spinners who only sell “Spot sales yarn.” Now if this is true and
you are spinning nothing but spot sale yarns, it is not hard to explain the six-month sale of
start-up yarn.

According to spinners, a lot of the T-shirt manufacturers have moved off-shore or to Mexico.
A number of them felt this was a good move — for the yarn spinner. Of course, when they left, they
took with them the yarn production they formerly purchased domestically.


Supply Problem Solved

The solution to the OE problem is pretty simple in the eyes of many spinners — Make less yarn!
Until this happens the situation will only get worse.

Another major change will have to occur in the attitude of mill owners and managers which is “
make it and they will buy it.” Satisfy the law of supply and demand and you solve the problem.

p17_1797



November 1999



New Developments Improve Medical Uses Of Cotton

Researchers at the Agricultural Research Service (ARS), the lead scientific agency for the U.S.
Department of Agriculture, Beltsville, Md., and at Virginia Commonwealth University, Richmond, Va.,
have announced that bedsores and other chronic wounds may heal faster thanks to gauze bandages that
are being developed using cotton. ARS scientists, led by chemist J. Vicent Edwards, have developed
a method to chemically modify cotton guaze so it reduces the amount of the natural enzyme,
elastase, in the wound area. Elastase can slow the healing of some wounds, and in some cases,
prevent healing.Normally the body produces enough natural inhibitors to offset the enzyme, but
chronic skin ulcers common to long-term hospital patients can cause elastase to build to more than
20 times normal levels. These new bandages have shown the ability to deactivate elastase.

November 1999

Shore To Shore Forms Latin American Partnership

Shore To Shore, Miamisburg, Ohio, recently signed an agreement with Padua SA, Guatemala, to provide
barcode tickets, graphic hangtags, woven and printed fabric labels for apparel manufacturers in
Central America.Padua is now the exclusive sales and services agent for Shore To Shore in
Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras.The partnership with Padua enhances Shore To Shores service,
marketing and distribution network to be in closer proximity to our customer base in the fast
growing apparel production regions of Central America, said Howard Kurdin, CEO, Shore To Shore.

November 1999

Wellman Reports PET Resin Production Decrease

Wellman Inc., Shrewsbury, N.J., recently announced that due to mechanical problems in its PET resin
production process resulting from an electrical failure in August 1999, production was reduced by
approximately 50 million pounds over the anticipated amount for August and September 1999. The
company said that customers needs were being shipped from the companys remaining production
capacity and inventory.

November 1999

Trutzschler

With the introduction of the High-Production Card DK 903, Trutzschler, Germany, has once
again set new standards for carding machines.The high-production card DK 903 is the further
development of Trutzschlers most successful card, the DK 803. More than 5,000 DK 803s have been
installed in spinning mills all over the world since its initial introduction at ITMA 95.The new DK
903, with its additionally implemented high-tech features, will improve carding quality even more.
All technological and production factors considered, the DK 903 is the most exciting short-staple
fiber card we have seen being introduced in this century. Profile Of A BestsellerEven though
visually unnoticeable, the DK 903 adds a long list of new and improved features compared to the DK
803. However, most of the core elements that made the 803 such a sales success remain (almost)
unchanged.The 803 offered, as the first card, an integrated direct feeding system that consisted of
the chute, the integral feed plate Sensofeed and the three-licker-in mat preparation system
Webfeed. Further, on all main functions AC servo drives were installed, aluminum flats which are
guided by toothed belts were a first in carding, and on-line quality monitoring was integrated.The
new features of the 903 are mainly concentrated in following areas: Improvements in setting the
card to closest tolerances for carding; Reduction of maintenance and adjustment times; Significant
improvement of quality on-line monitoring; and Integrated sliver drawing zone
(optional). Powerhouse DK 903Feeding of the fibers starts with Directafeed, the tuft feeder
that is an integral part of the 903. From there the Sensofeed, a 10-segmented feed plate releases
the fibers to the first licker-in of the Webfeed opening rollers.The Webfeed three-roll system
consists of three relatively small opening/licker-in rollers, which are not by design
revolutionary, but because of their small size and tangential extraction force they can imply. This
results in better trash and small particle removal.This three-roll configuration allows a gradual
acceleration of the fibers towards the high surface speed of the main cylinder by simultaneously
orientating the fibers properly and removing impurities effectively. Therefore, the transfer of the
fibers from the last licker-in roller to the cylinder through a pre-prepared fiber mat is better
than trough conventional one-licker-in systems.The fibers then travel past the up to 10 Twin Top
stationary carding segments, pass the suction supported mote knives and enter the revolving flat
section.This is the area where the 903 really shows several new technology
features. Flats/Cylinder InteractionThe optimum interaction of cylinder and flats is the most
important factor for cleaning and nep reduction. The new Trutzschler Flatconcept takes this into
account.The individual flat bars are made of aluminum profiles, light and at the same time
extremely rigid. They are guided by two toothed belts without special fastening elements; the flats
are basically just simply laying on the belts. A full flat exchange can be done by only one person,
and in less than an hour. There is no oiling or greasing, and the whole flat area remains clean and
maintenance-free.Stepless controllable drive allows the exact adaptation of the flat speed to the
processed material. The new flat cleaning device allows extended service intervals.The most
important setting on a card to target the sliver/yarn quality is the precise distance of the flats
to the cylinder. The Flatcontrol FCT was designed for objective distance measurement. A flat with
electronic measuring devices measures exactly the distance to the cylinder to the flats, static or
in motion. The computer print-out of the measurements of the Flatcontrol system is a very useful
tool for effective quality management.The Precision Flat Setting PFS is a new and patented system
from Trutzschler to set flats with high-precision, reproducible, and without tools. The 903 is
equipped with a manual centralized flat-adjustment mechanism, or, the customer can order the
motorized option. Either way, the adjustments that took hours before can be literally executed in
seconds.Also new is the Precision Flat Grinding System PCS for technologically correct touch-ups of
the flats. Trutzschler emphasizes that this procedure is far away from the conventional grinding
process and only used to make small touch-ups when the quality control system indicates this. This
ensures optimum performance of the card over the entire card-wire life.Actual quality control
during production is achieved with the optional nep sensor Nepcontrol NCT that Trutzschler offers
as an alternative to off-line laboratory testing. NCT monitors the card web for neps and trash
during production with reports on on-line quality, instead of random laboratory sampling. NCT works
on an optical/visual measuring principle that delivers meaningful data to Trutzschlers SliverNCT
can be permanently installed on each card, or, for cost saving reasons, it can be used as a
transferable unit within card groups.On the 903, all dedusting and cleaning points are under direct
and continuous suction. This guarantees best possible trash removal with constant cleaning
efficiency and keeps the environment clean. The 903 also features a high-speed can coiler/changer
KHC that was developed for speeds up to 400 m/min.Brand new for the 903 is the optional Integrated
Drawframe IDF. It is especially promising for specific open-end yarn applications.Trutzschler
emphasizes that not every final yarn application has been tested so far. However, initial results
show that elimination of one drawing process is possible, the overall machinery investment is
lower, and the space savings reflect investment cost positively. And, there are many other positive
effects that will make spinning mills look very carefully at the IDF system in the future.Needless
to say, the 903 offers all the bells and whistles of ocmputer control through its Cardcommander.
The Cardcommander collects production data and monitors all function groups of the machine. An
on-line display can retrieve machine settings, quality data, statistical data and much
more. Success With GuaranteeBased on the sales success of the DK 803 Trutzschler is almost
certain that the DK 903 will continue its success story.Trutzschler officials confirmed that
customers all around the world show great interest in this new card. Achievable mill productions
are claimed to be beyond 100 kg/hr. (~220 lbs./hr) The quality consistency, the cost savings and a
fast return on investment will almost guarantee the success of the Innovation Award winning DK 903.

November 1999

Datacolor International

 Datacolor International
For Its Colorite System 

Datacolor Internationals Colorite system offers the worldwide textile industry a new faster
color development process called Digital Sampling. For the first time, the conventional method of
developing color through physical samples and multiple lab dips can be replaced by a streamlined
process that uses a digital standard.By communicating digitally through e-mail or by computer
network, colors can be visually assessed immediately on the computer screen without the cost and
time involved in shipping physical samples. Standards and batches can be electronically stored and
quickly retrieved for permanent archiving. From Swatches To CurvesThe key to streamlining the
color development time is to replace physical samples, usually a swatch of cloth, with digital
samples that can be electronically transmitted between computers. More than just a color image is
transferred. Numerical color data including a spectral curve and a digitized substrate image is
also sent. The curve, not the swatch, is the standard now.Once the dyehouse receives this
information, they can use computerized color-matching systems to make predictions about how closely
they can match the color on a given substrate. These predictions in the form of a spectral curve
can be sent back to tell the retailer what is possible before the first laboratory dyeing is even
made.For this system to work each computer monitor must show exactly the same color. Datacolor
accomplishes this using its Colorite calibration technology.The Colorite technology allows users to
calibrate computer monitors to a precision of less than 0.5 average Delta E. This calibration is
device independent and calibrates the monitor using CIE coordinates. The system uses a low-cost CRT
probe to measure the screen and provide data for calibration.All Colorite products are available on
the standard Windows platform, allowing for easy integration into existing PC
configurations. Colorite Users MultiplyColorite systems are currently in use in the textile,
apparel, food and cosmetics industries in the United Kingdom and the United States. Customer
reaction has been very positive, and Datacolor can point to a growing number of major companies who
are Colorite users.Bali Company, a leading designer, manufacturer and distributor of intimate
apparel, and its major suppliers have reached an agreement with Datacolor to implement an
electronic color communication system that will shorten the sampling process and assure that every
product matches the designers original specifications. With Colorite, Bali can more quickly and
accurately manage its shade approval process via computer screen, which numerically and visually
assesses the color to be reproduced.Burke Mills is using Colorite technology from Datacolor to
communicate with customers and has placed a system in one of its larger customers. This technology,
which delivers true “on-screen” color, replaces the need for physical samples with digital samples
and significantly reduces the cycle time for color approval.Fruit of the Loom has chosen a complete
suite of color communication, computer color matching, and color quality control systems from
Datacolor. Fruit of the Loom’s design and development center, main dyehouse and production plants
will all be linked using Colorite to replace physical sampling with digital sampling.
November 1999

Dyersburg And Noble Form Alliance To Market X-Static

Dyersburg Corp., New York, has formed a strategic alliance with Noble Fiber Technologies Inc.,
Scranton, Pa., to market antimicrobial fabrics. These fabrics, known as Hydrologic, features
X-Static® fibers.X-Static has a layer of 99.9-percent pure silver permanently bonded to the surface
of the fiber, this provides sustained antimicrobial and anti-static properties. The new offerings
were introduced at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Marker in August.
Circle 307.

November 1999

Xorella

 Xorella
For Its Contexxor Compact LTC-S Yarn Conditioning System Xorella AG, Wettingen,
Switzerland, tops its success in the industry with the introduction of its award-winning Contexxor
Compact LTC-S yarn conditioning system, a revolutionary cubical design that deviates from any other
design on the market. There were not always such easy times, when one listens to Fredy Wanger,
founder of Xorella. There was a lot of skepticism when Xorella presented its first yarn
conditioning system to the textile industry, and there was negative publicity from individuals who
either did not understand what yarn conditioning can do, or from competitors envious that they had
not thought the principle in the first place.Today, if any weaving or knitting mill wishes to
achieve optimum production efficiency, there is just no way around a well conditioned yarn. Xorella
does not have to prove the principle anymore; its the mills themselves who have seen the positive
differences first-hand on ever faster running textile machinery. Compact LTC-S

The new generation of Compact LTC-S type Yarn Conditioning System Contexxor has been
developed based on the conventional Xorella system that is successfully in operation in several
countries around the world. Xorella is the founder of the cold saturated steam technology by
applying a state-of-the-art treatment processes for high yarn pallet conditioning. Together with
significant energy savings the new ECO-system offers reduced production cost based on lowest
possible energy consumption for waxed and unwaxed yarns, and natural and synthetic yarn
qualities.The Compact LTC-S line provides absolutely new dimensions in yarn conditioning and
heat-setting for very high pallets up to 13 package layers. The main advantages are: optimal
utilization of inside space; smaller outside space requirements shorter processing time; treatment
temperature up to 110 degree Centigrade; and lowest energy consumption ever. Yarn Conditioning
At Its BestThe Contexxor cold saturated steam conditioning system is the backbone for highest
knitting and weaving efficiencies.Xorella emphasizes that a large percent increase in mills is not
a rarity. In knitting this is achieved through reduced yarn unwinding tension, and reduced needle
wear through softer yarn. Contexxor conditioned yarns usually show up to 10-percent higher
strength, up to 30-percent higher elongation, and a 1.5 to 4-percent increase in moisture level.In
any application, much better friction values can be observed from start to finish of the package.
This reflects a more even loop formation during knitting. In weaving the size pick-up can be much
more equal and often no additional humidification is required.Further, electrostatic is practically
eliminated and up to 40-percent less fiber-fly and lint accumulation is the result. An
Industry PacemakerWanger and the Xorella team did it once again, proving that a square yarn
conditioning system will be more efficient than a round one. This is just another example of
Xorella setting the pace for yarn conditioning.

November 1999

DuPont And Haci Omer Sabanci Form Joint Venture

DuPont, Wilmington, Del., and Haci Omer Sabanci Holding AS, have signed a definitive agreement to
sell polyester filament, staple, resins, intermediates and related products for markets throughout
Europe, the Middle East and Africa.DuPont and Sabanci will be equal partners in the joint venture.
Operation will begin after approval from the European Commission and Turkish Competition Board.The
joint venture will have revenues of $1 billion annually and will employ approximately 4,500
people.This venture will combine the two leading producers of polyester in the world. Omer Sabanci,
president of Sabanci Group Chemicals, will become chairman of the board, and P.W. Kerry Kehoe,
former managing director, apparel, for DuPont Asia-Pacific Nylon, will become CEO of the joint
venture.

November 1999

Sponsors