Vendor Of Choice

Each year, Mount Vernons Consumer Products Division consisting of the Johnston, McCormick
and Arkwright plants ships 10 million packages of infant bedding products throughout America. Crib
blankets, sheets, bumpers, comforters, ruffles, towels and receiving blankets are sold under the
most popular names in the business Carter, Babycare, Martha Stewart, Riegel, Honors and Sesame
Street.Our customers place special priority in at least four areas safety, design, delivery and
partnerships, said John Graham, vice president, marketing, Consumer Products Division. To be the
vendor of choice, we must know our customer, their particular profile and what they are saying, in
order to earn and keep their business. We do this through continual customer-driven ideas and
needs.As a vertical producer, Mount Vernon controls all aspects of fabric manufacturing, from the
original bale of cotton or synthetic fiber through the finished, packaged product. Knowing the
exact end use of each baby product is a big advantage as far as engineering the fabric to fit the
products end application, said Graham.Controlling the recipe by testing and knowing fiber length,
strength, color and uniformity results in the ultimate comfort, appearance and long life, according
to the company. In Mount Vernons fabrication facilities, 650 associates employ the latest
technology to cut, sew, finish and package superior quality products for the babys bedroom. Meeting
safety demands is a priority for Mount Vernon. The companys staff of designers creates customized
designs, utilizing a variety of in-house CAD capabilities. Moving fast in design often gives our
customers the competitive edge, continued Graham. Our aim is to make the product better, not
cheaper.Innovation At Johnston
In 1991, K-Mart came to Mount Vernon requesting individual store order fulfillment. This
meant handling orders by store, by product and by replenishment. After extensive investigation,
Mount Vernon partnered with Pinnacle Automation and developed, designed, manufactured and installed
its Direct Store Replenishing System (DSRS).The DSRS consists of three zones that cover an area of
90,000 square feet. The first zone, Rear Storage, is the area designed to maintain the inventory of
Mount Vernon products that move out of the manufacturing (fabrication-cutting, sewing, finishing)
area onto racks. The next area, the Forward Pick zone, is where the individual store order is made
up. A system of lights directs one operator to select every item in the order by correct quantity,
color and size. At this stage, the system also has the ability to automatically replenish the
product inventory before it ever runs out of stock. The operator places the ordered items in
bar-coded totes on an automated conveyor where they move onto the Customization and Packing zone.
Here, packing and assembly of the total order is completed and the cases are routed to the
appropriate shipping doors or temporary storage. Depending on customers requirements, orders are
shipped within 48 to 72 hours from receipt of order.In addition to the obvious savings in handling
and distribution costs, the DSRS allows stores to order smaller quantities than standard case
packs. The system also handles pre-pricing and calculates order size into cubic feet and weight,
which reduces customers shipping costs and corrugated disposal responsibilities.Jim Spinner,
president of this growing division, sums up whats behind this success: Its partnering, partnering.
More and more we are working from the consumer back, not from technology forward. Thats what
motivates us.The Investment Continues
In
1999, the Arkwright plant was brought into the Consumer Products Division, which enhanced the
consistency of fabric quality for Johnstons basic raw material. Being able to monitor and control
every phase, from bale opening through the finished, packaged product, gives our baby products,
napery products and institutional products customers a major advantage, said Spinner. Deficiencies
and inconsistencies in quality of service can occur anywhere in the long road from cotton bale to
delivery in the store. With our vertical capabilities, we eliminate or greatly reduce the risk of
not maintaining purity in our quality.Arkwright introduces a whole new set of customer benefits.
The plant is a single floor, flow-through, total system environment bale opening through rotor
spinning, warping, slashing, weaving, napping and pad dyeing. Technical and key staff have operated
the facilities for many years, and they know the business from start to finish. And now with Mount
Vernons company commitment to continuous capital improvement, they have the best of everything to
produce the best product ever, continued Spinner.A modernization and improvement program was put
into place immediately after the facility was acquired. Today, a total of 140 Picanol rapiers and
Sulzer projectiles turn out 100-percent cotton and 100-percent acrylic fabrics in widths ranging
from 153 inches on projectiles and 190, 220 and 240 inches on rapiers. According to Spinner,
automated sizing capabilities are currently being added to further control warp preparation
quality.
May 2000

Denim And Workwear On A Grand Scale

And
WorkwearOn A Grand Scale
Mount Vernons massive Trion complex invests in customer service. The first thing that
strikes a visitor at Mount Vernons Trion Complex is its daunting physical size. Uniformly the first
thought to flash through a visitors mind seems to be Wow, these plants really are bigger than the
town. The complex is made up of the Trion Denim plant, Trion Finishing plant and the new
88-feet-tall distribution center.Lets look at the denim plant first. Trion Denim is huge. And so
are its production capability and appetite for cotton. The plant produces about 2.5 million square
yards of denim per week and consumes about 5,000 bales of cotton per week.The plant dates back to
1845. It became a denim operation in the early 1970s. Prior to that time, the plant produced cotton
work clothing. Interesting enough, most of the adjacent Trion Finishing plants production is
polyester/cotton work clothing. The Grand Tour: DenimThe plants production processes go from
the cotton bale to finished fabric. Trion Denim has seven Hollingsworth Optomix opening lines. In
carding, there are 53 Hollingsworth 2000 cards and 145 Saco Lowell cards.The older Saco Lowell
cards run at about half the speed of the newer Hollingsworth cards 70 pounds per hour versus 130
pounds per hour. Plant management hopes to replace the older Saco Lowell cards in the next round of
capital programs.The plant has Rieter drawframes and 62 Schlafhorst Autocoro open-end spinning
machines. The spinning machines are equipped with Zellweger Usters Polyguard monitoring system
linked to a central monitoring system. All of the plants spinning capacity is made up of open-end
machines. Trion relies on Mount Vernons Alto Yarn plant and outside vendors for ring-spun yarns.The
warping department is equipped with nine McCoy Ellison warpers and warper creels. All of these
machines are brand new.The Trion plant has one of the largest indigo dye houses in the world
containing two 36-strand Kleinewefers dye ranges and one older 24-strand re-manufactured dye range.
All three ranges can dye the full range of Trion denim products but the 24-strand range is
generally used for sulfur blacks.A sophisticated dyehouse monitoring and control system by
Rosemount a well-known pulp and paper control system vendor controls all three dye ranges. In
addition, all three ranges have Hunterlab on-line shade monitoring systems.Next on ATIs tour was
the rebeaming area where 29 Reed-Chatwood beamers with accumulators prepare warps for slashing. The
plant has six West Point slashers. These machines have been modified to accept larger
1,100-millimeter (mm) beams.The weave room is equipped with 214 Picanol Omni air-jet weaving
machines and 130 Sulzer doublewide projectile weaving machines. At one time, the plant had 440
Sulzer projectile machines.Looking back at changes in the weave room over the last eight years
tells an interesting story. In 1992, the plant added 40 new Sulzer P7100 projectile machines to
increase production capability. In 1993-94, the oldest 130 Sulzer projectile machines were replaced
with 91 new Sulzer P7200 machines.Then in 1997, the Picanol air-jet machines replaced 300
projectile machines. The projectile machines run at about 300 rpm and the air-jets at about 800
rpm. The looms are equipped with a Barco monitoring system and Alexander Machinery off-loom
take-ups.A Luwa Bahnson LoomSphere loom conditioning system is also in place here.The driving force
behind these moves was cost reduction. Warp beam size played a key roll in these decisions. The new
1,100-mm beams used by the air-jet machines can hold more than twice the yardage of the 800-mm
beams used by the projectile machines. This translates to big savings in both weaving and
slashing.Plant management estimates that they have reduced yarn waste by as much as 200,000 pounds
per month since 1992. This reduction also takes into account improvements made in the yarn mill as
well.In finishing, Trion Denim has two denim finishing ranges, a combination overdye and washing
range, and six Morrison sanforizers. In the inspection area, the plant uses a Barco system for
mapping defects and optimizing yardages. 
Don
henderson, vice president, Denim Manufacturing Staying State Of The ArtATI editors visited
Trion Denim just four years ago
(See Making Denim On A Grand Scale, ATI
, March 1996), and there have been many capital improvements over that short time frame.
The weave room was modernized with the addition of Picanol air-jet machines at a cost of about $15
million.The plant has upgraded four of its six slashers to accept larger loom beams for the new
air-jets. All of the plant ball warpers were replaced last year. The power infrastructure was also
revamped.If you go back seven or eight years, the number explodes from $70 million to $100 million,
said Don Henderson, vice president, Denim Manufacturing. Add in improvements to the nearby Trion
Finishing plant and the new distribution center and the number mushrooms to about $125
million. The Distribution Center
The next
stop for ATI editors was the distribution center. Much of Mount Vernons capital spending at this
site went to control costs. At the same time, the modernizations and improvements also addressed
important quality issues. However the $25-million distribution center was built to provide more
intangible benefits including customer service and product perception.Prior to the distribution
center, Trion Finishing was storing its fabric in a warehouse built in the 1940s, and Trion Denim
was handling its fabric four or five times prior to shipping it.The process includes transporting
fabric via an elevator to the loading dock, trucking it to a warehouse, storing the fabric on racks
and finally sequencing the fabric rolls for shipment. Sequencing the fabric involved stacking the
rolls on the floor so they could be placed on the truck in the exact order that the customer needed
at the cut-and-sew plant.Now the fabric rolls ride a conveyor to the distribution center where
seven telescoping ASRVs (automated storage retrieval vehicles) store the fabric. These ASRVs can
move at speeds up to 600 feet per minute and move rolls and cartons of fabric with precision that
has to be seen to be believed. When it comes time to ship a roll of fabric, it exits the
distribution center via elevator and a forklift places the roll on the truck.Before we were doing
about as good a job of tearing up those rolls as we were making them to begin with, Don Henderson
said. We realized that we needed to do something different with our distribution. The beauty of the
distribution center is that our customers use our shipments now as the model for everyone else. It
was not a cost issue. It was a customer satisfaction issue. Its been one of the most positive
things that weve done. The Grand Tour: Finishing
The final
stop of ATIs tour was the Trion Finishing plant. This plant receives greige fabrics from Mount
Vernons Alto and Cleveland, Ga., plants and the companys Fresno, Calif., plant. About two million
yards of fabric are finished here per week. Trion Finishing is an open-width continuous operation.
Production processes start with two four-stage preparation lines, which desize, scour, mercerize
and bleach the fabric. The dyehouse has four continuous dye ranges. Of these, three have thermosol
capability for dyeing polyester. The plant has three tenter frames and five sanforizers. Trion
Finishing has equipped its sanforizers with the Elbit automated inspection system, so fabric can be
inspected while being processed. There are four sanders for surface finishing. The plant has a
Rosemount process control system similar to the one at Trion Denim controlling approximately 2,500
set points.While this system has a central control center, Mount Vernon associates are still
allowed to make changes in the processes from the production floor without seeking permission from
the control center. It allows our associates to be more in control of the process, said Lee Bryan,
general manager, Trion Finishing. We want them to have the authority to do the things that they
need to do. You cannot separate responsibility from authority. Thats the philosophy of the company
to me.Most of the fabric processed here goes into workwear. Mount Vernon is a player with every
major uniform manufacturer. Another big segment is bottomweight fabric for
sportswear. Innovation On DemandRecently, one of Mount Vernons biggest workwear customers came
to the company with a request. It wanted a softer, more comfortable uniform fabric. But the fabric
had to have the same wear-like-iron performance as the current product. Mount Vernon took the
challenge to heart. After a grueling year-long examination of the fabric, Mount Vernons
manufacturing team knew it better than ever before.We proved everything that we believed about that
fabric again, Bryan said. Some of the things that we always believed about that fabric what had to
go into that fabric to make it successful we actually proved wrong.In the end, they developed a
fabric with hand that the customer wanted without sacrificing performance. The details of this
innovation are proprietary and could not be shared with ATI.
May 2000

ATMI Announces Officers Ellis Addresses Challenges

ATMI Announces Officers;Ellis Addresses ChallengesIn his keynote address at the 51st Annual Meeting of the American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) in Bermuda, ATMI President Doug Ellis addressed recent industry challenges and made some personal predictions about the future of the U.S. textile industry.Ellis acknowledged that the past year and a half has been a difficult one speaking specifically of the Asian financial crisis, the industry battle for the Sub-Saharan Africa and the Caribbean Basin Initiative (CBI) trade package and Chinas entry into the World Trade Organization (WTO).Despite these challenges, Ellis said he is pleased with what the industry has accomplished during the last year. For example, the American Textile Alliance (ATA) was formed to represent the entire textile manufacturing complex in the U.S. and could be expanded to include the Canadian and Mexican textile manufacturers.Ellis concluded his address with some personal predictions for the next decade, saying: “it will end up being a very good one for the U.S. textile industry, and history is on my side.”At the meeting, Roger W. Chastain, chief operating officer and director, Mount Vernon Mills Inc., Greenville, S.C., was named president of ATMI. Also elected were Charles A. Hayes, chairman of the board, Guilford Mills Inc., Greensboro, N.C., as first vice president and Van May, president and CEO, Plains Cotton Cooperative Association, Lubbock, Texas, as second vice president. May 2000

Taking Care Of Number One

2000 Award For InnovationBy Chuck Norton,Assistant Editor Taking Care Of Number One
Through diversification, new technology and flexibility, Brenham keeps its customers
happy.
 
It is
about the little things, the details that make an above-average textile operation an extraordinary
one. The Brenham, Texas, operation of Mount Vernon has taken innovative steps to improve efficiency
and to further satisfy its customers needs for fewer defects and lowered lead-time by focusing on
details that other manufacturers may overlook. All the while setting a standard in waste handling
and recycling.In 1992, Mount Vernon Mills acquired Brentex Inc., which included the Brenham and
Cuero, Texas, operations. Ironically enough, both the Brenham and Cuero plants were built in 1901,
and both have seen many renovations over the years. These two plants, along with the recently
acquired Columbus, Miss., facility, currently make up the Brentex Division of Mount Vernon.Brenham
has evolved into a plant consisting of a greige mill, a wet-processing facility and a die-cutting
division for pocketing. The plant produces pocketing and also dyes and finishes boat cover fabric
and other greige fabrics. The facility is vertically integrated, a fact that Kent Snow, president
of the Brentex division, says is key to maintaining Mount Vernons competitive edge.Having a
vertically integrated facility something our competitors dont have allows our customers to be
better served while reducing their lead-time, Snow said. New TechnologySince 1994, the company
has installed new spinning frames, looms, cards, drawframes and opening and cleaning lines. The
Brenham operation uses Rieter machines exclusively with three Uniclean opening, blending and
cleaning lines, 20 C4 cards and eight drawframes. The operation also has 13 Schlafhorst spinning
frames, two Reed Chatwood warpers and 146 air-jet looms all of which are Sulzer Textil 5100 or 5200
looms.In the dyeing and finishing area, a recently purchased Griffin slasher is being used as a
beta tester for Mount Vernon Mills to run prewetting trails. The plants finishing operation, which
is maintained to maximize flexibility, has a 79-inch Morrison tenter frame and an 84-inch Monforts
tenter frame using Kuster pads. The company invested in weft strengtheners for the tenter frames to
further improve quality. Also in place is a 90-inch Sanforizer for wide goods, which adds to the
divisions ability to meet market demands. To further improve defect detection, Mount Vernon expects
to have a new Elbit Systems EBX 2000 inspection system in place by the end of the
year. Vertical Die-Cutting
One of the plants largest undertakings was the 1996 addition of an Eastman die-cutting
line for pocketing. Mount Vernon wanted to add this line in order to shorten the lead-time for its
customers and also improve its own competitive advantage by becoming a vertically integrated
die-cutting operation. The process was a slow and arduous one, as many of those who worked on the
design and installation, including Keith Soechting, Brenham dyeing and finishing plant manager, had
not worked on this type of operation before. However, upon completion of the project, Mount Vernon
immediately began to see rewards.Having a die-cutting department in-house allows us to address many
customer spreading issues, Soechting said. We can make corrections in an attempt to resolve their
problem and then evaluate a spread in-house before shipping the goods to their plant.Soechting went
on to say that this operation can cut down on shipping costs, production time lost, and it can
shorten the overall response time. Having a vertical die-cutting operation in-house also creates an
advantage in product development by shortening its lead-time. Mount Vernon also finds it to be
crucial to visit and maintain a presence in large customers facilities.We will go to see customers
as much as possible, said Snow. We want to see what the customer sees.According to Mount Vernon,
customers are happier with the lower defects and the reduced lead-time. These fewer defects
translate into fewer irregularities and fewer irregularities save the customers money. A one- to
two-week inventory is maintained for all cut-product customers, and the plant can usually ship the
product within 24 hours of receiving the companys request.We didnt want cut pockets to be an issue
in shipping a late shipment, Snow said. We have inventory on-site so if changes occur, supply is
still a worry-free situation for the customer.The company has an EDI system in place to transfer
information to and from its customers. This has allowed the plant and its customers to be more
informed and has provided a drastic improvement in efficiency.At Brenham, there is continual
capital investment to upgrade equipment throughout the plant. In the material handling area, there
have been several recent improvements. New clips for handling greige rolls have been added, as has
automated handling of cut pockets pallets to reduce damage.There has been a conversion from batcher
to A-frames. The Brehnam facility contains one of two certified testing labs for physical testing
within the company. Improving All Aspects
Many
of the non-technical innovations seen in the Brenham facility are related to the companys focus on
customer satisfaction, safety, the environment and reduction of waste. Mount Vernon uses what it
calls an offensive position on quality, safety and production, which has garnered the plant Mount
Vernons corporate safety award four years in a row.If you dont change, youre out of business, said
Michael Grunder, Brenham greige mill plant manager. Not sitting back being complacent is the key,
and having the right people in place is very important.Employees have input into the safety
program. There is an open-door policy with the workers about products, safety or any other subject
for that matter. The company finds it very important to generate new ideas and questions about how
improvements can be made. While this has become more difficult as the labor force has changed there
is a higher turnover rate due to the current economic climate the company feels it is still
imperative to gain knowledge from those associates that are on the production floor. It has also
caused the company to start documenting training procedures and sharing information more openly.The
turnover rate has caused Mount Vernon to create what it calls CBT (computer-based training). The
CBT system will reduce the time required to train new employees, especially in entry-level
positions. Waste ReductionThe recent years have seen Brenham make several changes to reduce
its waste, or waste for the customer. The company now ships its pallets with shrink-wrap rather
than strapping. Not only does this create less waste, but it also allows for easier access to the
pallet and causes less damage to the product.The use of the shrink-wrap also allows the pallet to
retain more structural integrity when only a partial shipment is used.The use of heat-shrunk pocket
bundles rather than boxes reduce Brenhams customers landfill costs a cost that is substantially
growing. The plant also requires that purchased yarn must come in a traypack to further improve the
companys recycling effort. Brenham has followed Mount Vernons company-wide movement from what we
call the old ways to a new environmental strategy, Snow said. All the chemicals that we buy are in
recycled material or the containers are returned to the supplier.Grunder continued: We have tried
to reduce hazardous chemicals as much as possible. We will reject chemicals if there is a negative
environmental effect, even if the chemical might be exactly what we are looking for. We try and
find another chemical that will do the job while being safe for the environment even if it means it
is a little more expensive. Trucking Right AlongThe Brentex division also maintains its own
trucking line, allowing for a reduction of lead-time and also valuable feedback about the condition
of its products at the time of delivery.We run our own trucks to our customers in order to ensure
our customers receive their products in a timely manner, Soechting said. This gives us the
flexibility to make more reliable emergency shipments and reduce handling of the goods at a freight
terminal for a better overall control of the shipping process.We receive direct feedback from our
drivers about what condition our goods arrive in and make note of the deficiencies before we get a
complaint from the customer and provide feedback to the warehouse personnel about ways to improve
loading trailers to make sure we reduce damage due to load shifting.  Maintaining ExcellenceAs
the company looks to the future, it knows that continued information sharing and open communication
will be important in maintaining the satisfaction of its customers and employees. One way to
accomplished this is through e-mail.The plant has seen an increase in contact with its sales force
and has been able to stay more informed by customers through e-mail.It has allowed us to expand our
knowledge base, Snow said. And it allows us to work more efficiently.As Brenham has shown, it takes
much more than new machines to make a mill.By focusing on the details, the plant has created a
climate not only conducive to high productivity, but also one of customer and employee
satisfaction.
May 2000

Surface Finishing Gains New Precision

 Surface Finishing Gains New Precision
Trends in the latest surface finishing technologyIn recent years, surface finishing
technology has taken a hi-tech approach triggered by new fibers and fabrics that entered the
market, and, of course, customer demand for new products. ATI invited the major machinery
manufacturers to participate in a general update on finishing machinery technology. The following
article covers the suppliers that have responded to our invitation.Over all, there seems to be a
trend towards lighter weight fabrics with surface refinement. This trend incorporates the demand
for very soft fabrics, a typical application of sueding of woven and knitted fabrics. Sueding also
seems to take the lead in bottomweight goods over napping. Furthermore, customers are looking for
innovative surface finishes that include patterns. Microfiber fleeces are another interesting field
that opened up new applications, and the upholstery industry is still looking for great surface
appearance and a soft hand. The biggest problem of older finishing machinery was the incapability
of achieving the high precision settings that todays finishes require. Furthermore, 100-percent
repeatability of all settings and constant settings just seemed unachievable in high-production
environments. Today, with the introduction of sophisticated computer control systems and inverter
drives, many of the old problems are solved with new and very precise finishing machinery. Ultimate
tension control permits the processing of the lightest and most delicate fabrics. Since lead times
are much shorter than in the past, and many textile producers and textile finishers get beaten by
imports, there is no way around the fact that investing in the latest state-of-the-art surface
finishing machinery separates the winners form the masses.Fine Finishing MachineryBiancalani
S.p.A., Italy (Symtech Inc., Spartanburg, S.C.), has provided innovative finishing technology to
create the newest fashions in the textile industry for many years. Well known in the industry is
Biancalanis Airo tumbling process, which developed new applications in apparel, upholstery and
automotive applications that improved the look, hand and drapeability. Biancalanis product
development and customer input lead to the recently introduced machine called Petra, which is used
to create a new finish on a wide range of fabrics.The Petra machine offers a unique process that
incorporates the use of a series of synthetic pumice bars on the surface of cellulosic fabric to
remove the color. The fabric is impregnated with water as it reaches the treatment area, while the
pumice bars oscillate back and forth at a speed of 600 to 800 movements per minute. This high-speed
movement and the specially designed surface of the bars allow the fiber ends to be raised and then
removed with each oscillation. The end result is a uniform, continuous stone-washing treatment that
can be used on many products like denim, all kinds of cotton fabrics, linen, Tencel® and various
blended fabrics.The Petra technology is being used in the industry as a pretreatment of fabrics
prior to garment finishing or as the final treatment during the finishing stage for home furnishing
products. The process has assisted many garment producers in minimizing and even eliminating costly
enzymatic treatments, and has helped in minimizing defects. In the home furnishing markets, Petra
has created new looks and different hands which have opened new markets to Biancalanis customers.
Caru, Italy (The Patterson Group, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the sanding and sueding machine, model
CSM/6-B. The machine introduces patented, lightweight carbon composite sueding rolls. This
innovative six-roll sueding machine features AC inverter drives and PLC control, offering numerous
advantages over conventional machines, including speeding up the rolls to 2,800 rpm for maximum
production rates. It also drives individual sueding rolls in pile and counterpile directions for
special sueding effects.The PLC control assures uniform and repeatable processing. The special
pneumatic paper-clamping system automatically recovers any paper loosening due to wear and
temperature and gives a constant adjustment to the paper tightness. An oscillating motion of the
third and sixth rolls even the pile and hide eventual microdefects from prior processes. All of the
features of the CMS/6-B machine for dry sanding are also available on the AS/4 machine for wet
sanding.Cibitex Srl, Italy (The Patterson Group, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the Cibitex shrinking
unit (Cibi-Shrink) for woven fabrics, open-width knitted fabrics and denim fabrics. It incorporates
some of the highest precision manufacturing and latest technology to guarantee precise and
consistent shrinkage control.Cibitex uses the latest electronic technology and AC inverter drive
systems for a perfect synchronization. The Cibi-Shrink unit gives perfect shrinkage control and an
excellent improvement to the hand of the fabric. It is especially effective in the enhancement of
the soft fabric character of pigment-printed fabrics and knitted fabrics containing Lycra®.Cibitex
recently introduced the new compact version Cibi-Compactex, primarily used in-line with tenter
frame operations. This unit offers reduced floor space requirements and is used for small
corrections in shrinkage and hand enhancement. Cibitex has recently installed seven units in the
United States, working in-line and off-line. In production environments, the Cibi-Compactex has
proven to be economical, reliable and most effective in the processing of knitted and woven
fabrics. Comet SpA, Italy (Burlington Textile Machinery Corp., Burlington, N.C.), offers the
Polara, a combined raising and shearing machine that is electronically controlled. The operators
control panel with touch screen carries out instant and easy adjustments. Settings that were
difficult to achieve in the past are adjusted on Polara by inverter-driven motors, such as setting
the shearing height and synchronization of all functions.The machine also features trouble-shooting
functions and programmed maintenance control. All process parameters and machine set-ups can be
saved in process receipts that can be easily retrieved if the same style is processed again. The
process receipts can of course be modified if a similar fabric style would require this.Polara
features a drum with 14 pile-raising rollers and two contact areas of the drum. The shearing
cylinder, with a certain number of spiral blades, is suited to all types of processing. The machine
features a variable fabric speed from 0 to 30 m/min, and has seam detection by electronic sensors
for the displacement of the shearing table and the velveting comb. The velveting unit itself
consists of a brush and the equipment for the pile preparation for shearing. The shearing height
and the velveting brush depth are adjusted by electronic means. Options include a variable shearing
cylinder speed, a cleaning counter brush, a sliding hoist for the replacement of the shearing unit
and the device for pneumatically lifting the shearing cylinder from the ledger blade for sharpening
and cleaning. Also available are a “piano” rest on the velveting brush and the shearing head, the
automatic lubrication of the shearing cylinder felt and expanders for knits. Jaume Anglada Vinas,
Spain (The Patterson Group, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the Turbang TMS continuous open width tumbler.
The new TMS system (fourth generation) was debuted at ITMA 99 in Paris. It has proven to give
results equal to those machines using labor-intensive and costly batch processes. The Turbang is
one of the most unique finishing and drying machines on the market today, according to the company.
The new TMS system produces maximum softness on all types of fabrics. It is especially effective on
difficult fabrics such as upholstery, printed, jacquard, 100-percent cotton apparel, woven velvet
for automotive use, flocked upholstery, toweling and 100-percent synthetic woven fabrics. All
fabrics finished on the Turbang receive a very soft and pleasant natural feel.Aging effects can
also be achieved and pile fabrics such as velour and terry cloth achieve excellent volume and pile
orientation results. Pile fabrics that have eventually been distorted through prior processes can
be restored on the Turbang. Company officials mentioned that more than 500 machines are running
worldwide.Kusters, Germany (Zima Corporation, Spartanburg, S.C), has years of experience in the
development and production of singeing machines. Successfully installed in many countries, the
Kusters machine processes all types of fibers and fabrics. Kusters burners are 100-percent
stainless steel, water-cooled and equipped with ceramic flame-deflection blocks.A sequence of
alternating compression and expansion processes for the gas-to-air mixture ensures a homogenous
flame. This results in a uniform and reproducible singeing effect. The flame properties include a
high thermal and kinetic energy through which the steam/air cushion on the fabric is penetrated.
The short flame has a very brief contact with the fabric to prevent fiber damage. The high energy
produces a residue-free combustion, thus easily removing the protruding fibers and delivers a
uniform singeing. Because of the special burners, it is possible to singe nearly all fabrics. In
addition, fibers can be singed with only one burner per face and back, which saves energy at a
remarkably low gas consumption. The machine features three different singeing positions based on
the type of fabric being processed. For singeing on free-running fabric, the flame impinges on the
fabric at right angles, facilitating an intensive singeing effect. This position is especially
suitable for heavier weight natural and blended fabrics, as well as for high singeing speeds.For
singeing on water-cooled rolls, the flame impinges vertically on the fabric while the back of the
fabric is guided over water-cooled rolls, therefore avoiding an overheating of the fabric. The
burner is well-suited for polyester and blends as well as lightweight webs.For tangential singeing,
the flame impinges tangentially on the fabric, singeing off protruding fibers only, but does not
penetrate the fabric. This position is especially suitable for very lightweight and sensitive
fabrics.All processing parameters fabric speed, singeing intensity, singeing position, the
effective width of the flame, temperature of the cooled rollers and more can be pre-selected
through a PLC, so a uniform, reproducible singeing effect can be achieved at varying speeds. This
is especially important when the singer is part of a continuous finishing line.A great number of
production safety features are incorporated in the machine, such as where the burners automatically
swivel away from the fabric if the fabric speed falls below a pre-set value. In addition, the
company offers a lot of options such as brushing and beating rolls, vacuum slots, dry and wet
filters to remove impurities and impregnating saturators with squeezing units for desizing.Lafer
SpA, Italy (SGA, Charlotte, N.C.), is one of the leading suppliers of raising, shearing and sueding
machines. For its worldwide customers, Lafer offers a wide range of surface finishing solutions for
knitted and woven fabrics.Lafer pioneered the double-drum technology on the raising machine and was
one of the first suppliers to introduce automation on raising machines. The company based its GSMI
sueding machines on the multiple roll drum technology (24 or 48 rollers), compared to conventional
sueders that use only four to eight sueding rollers. The drum technology allows greater versatility
on light- to heavyweight fabrics with minimal loss of tensile strength.Streaking, which is a
critical problem on conventional sueders, has been solved by the combined action of the 24 sueding
rollers. The company emphasizes that the rotating drum will not cause any streaking and will
actually enhance sueding uniformity. Flexibility is a key factor of Lafers finishing machinery.
Lafer is introducing a new type of sueding machine that widens the range of sueding effects.The
Aquasand can be used to process fabric in wet or dry form. Dry sueding gives a soft handle and will
raise a certain pile surface (hairiness), whereas with wet sueding the water creates a lubricating
effect that gives a soft handle but without raising the pile. Subsequently, there will be a minimal
change of appearance, but the fabric softness will be remarkably enhanced.

Lafer’s Aquasand function principle of the sueding machineThe Aquasand is supplied with an
impregnation mangle at the entry and a squeezing mangle at exit, so that fabrics can be processed
wet or dry. Aquasand can process woven, knit and stretch fabrics made of natural, synthetic or
blended fibers.

Lafer also offers the K-Compactors. The demand for dimensionally stable cotton knit fabrics
in recent years has created an increase in investments in compressive shrinking machines, or
compacting calenders. Today, buyers expect dimensionally stable goods from all their suppliers.
Lafer has introduced a felt-compacting calender that was mainly designed for knitted fabrics in
open width, but it can also process tubular knit goods. The machine is available as an independent
unit (KSB), or complete with pin chain tenter inlet (KSA). Lafers goal was to design a machine with
low energy consumption and that runs faster than conventional felt compactors, while improving the
hand of the fabric. To achieve this, the Lafer felt-compacting calender model KS is equipped with
larger calendering rolls compared to other machines. The larger contact surface also processes
fabrics at a lower temperature and handles delicate fabrics while lowering running costs.The Lafer
compactors can be equipped with the patented Softplus system that maintains a bulkier fabric hand
and reduces the luster effect considerably on synthetic blends.Lindauer Dornier GmbH, Germany
(American Dornier, Charlotte, N.C.), offers several circular systems for wet and surface finishing.
Dorniers circular singeing machine type EcoSinge allows uniform singeing of tubular knit goods of
all diameters without stripes and without selvedge marks.The infinitely variable expansion of the
tubes on the circular expander allows an optimum ecological singeing of grey goods. The singeing
effect is maintained up to the final product. Also singeing of yarn-dyed articles assures
remarkable quality improvements. A calender drum behind the singeing section guarantees that every
spark which might remain on the fabric after singeing is extinguished. Tube diameters of 250 to
1,200 mm (9.8 inches to 47.2 inches) can be processed. The singeing speed is adjustable from 40 to
120 m/min. The machine is offered with a beating box, Lycra traction device, blow-off device and
wet filter for exhaust air cleaning. EcoFix is Dorniers new thermosetting range. The company claims
it is the first machine of its type on the world market capable of performing a heatsetting
operation on circular knits in tubular form. Dornier offers this solution to heatset synthetic and
elastic circular knits.The demand from retail customers is still growing for seamless leisurewear
and underwear that require improved rebound elasticity and exact fabric weights. Until now,
presetting of knitwear with elastic fiber content has been performed on stenter frames with the
fabric cut open. Apart from the process of sewing the seams, this procedure causes additional labor
and material costs because of fabric slitting, fabric loss due to selvedge glueing and cutting,
fabric doubling and sewing to avoid selvedges to curl during dyeing, fabric re-slitting and
following processes. With this solution, all of the common hosiery widths can be continuously
steam-relaxed, thermoset with hot air and then treated with cold air.The Dornier automatically
adjustable circular expander system ensures that the tubular fabric is held in its compressed
condition with maximum control during the EcoFix treatment. Opening the stitches of the circular
expander enables the hot airflow to pass uniformly around and through the tubular fabric. This
system sets new standards in the field of heatsetting with shape stability, stretchability based on
predefined elasticity, plus the required specific weight all ensured on a reproducible basis.m-tec
Maschinenbau GmbH, Germany (Zima Corporation), offers the pile shearing machine model SFS, System
Sistig. Years of experience and development has led to the new design and construction of the SFS,
resulting in an optimum combination of high efficiency, technical superiority and easy handling.
The machine can be used universally for natural, synthetic and blended fibers.The SFS was designed
for textile pile-type fabrics such as woven and knitted velours, raschel velours, needle felts and
flocked fabrics, going into many market segments such as upholstery, outerwear, home textiles,
technical fabrics, blankets, automotive, terry fabrics, etc. The machine features a large shear
cylinder of 210-mm diameter, which can be equipped with up to 28 spirals. It has a fine regulation
of fabric tension throughout the shearing zone, which is especially important for stretch-type
fabrics. The shear table is automatically lowered to allow seams to pass through without fabric
damage. During this passage, the position of the shear tool remains in place while the fabric
tension remains constant.The effective removal of shear lint by vacuum is ensured by the
high-quantity of exhaust air and optimized airflow. This allows for uniform cooling of the cutting
tool, and greatly increases the live time of the shearing tool.Another important factor of the
longevity of the shearing tool and for trouble-free shearing process is a cylinder lubrication
system. Instead of the manually operated lubrication, a special patented lubrication system is in
place which assures a uniform application of the lubricant. This is achieved through a traversing
applicator, which ensures automatic and continuous lubrication. The automatic lubrication system
can be adjusted to the shear width. The amount of lubricant and the lubricant time periods are both
program-controlled. This prevents excessive lubricant application when fabrics of different widths
are processed.The m-tec unit is equipped with a PLC; it controls parameters like fabric speed,
fabric tension, shear height, shearing gap, speed of shearing cylinder and more. The shear can also
be integrated with up to two tiger units, model System Sistig, to allow for raising of the fiber
prior to shearing. Other pile preparation equipment such as a pile polisher, cross brush, drum
raising unit, steaming device and/or electric radiators, are also manufactured and integrated into
the system by m-tec.Mario Crosta, Italy (PSP Marketing, Charlotte, N.C.), offers a wide variety of
surface finishing machinery, including: type MC universal and special raising and sueding machines;
type FKR and CHD two-drum raising machines; type SSC single-, twin- and three-cylinder shearing
machines, continuous lines for combined shearing and raising; type SD sueding machines; type Ctd
carpet-shearing machines; type GST napping and pile opening machines; type DSS discontinuous dry
decatizing machines; type RVT shrinking-steaming machines; and type SPV brushing machines.The
company claims that at ITMA 91, Germany, it was the first in this field to use inverter drives.
Today, all of its machinery uses 100-percent inverter drives.Mario Crosta claims to be the world
leader in its field with sales of 200 machines per year in various models and types. The highly
specialized technical staff is led by Emanuele Crosta, son of the founder, and pays great attention
to the technical needs of their customers.Prototypes of new machinery are thoroughly tested before
they are launched in new markets to ensure their reliability. This flexible approach to
technological problems has led to the development of state-of-the-art machinery. For example, the
first raising machine with full inverter controls was exhibited at ITMA 87 in Paris. The machine
was put on the market in 1988, only after passing extensive tests and trials. Since then, more than
900 machines in various models have been sold and supplied around the world.Monforts
Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany (American Monforts Corp., Charlotte, N.C.), offers the latest
generation of Toptex Sanforising units. These include a complete range of modular attachments for
the compressive shrinking devices, a new jet cooler (which extends the life of the rubber shrinking
belt) and improved PLC controls to ensure reproducible shrinking values.Toptex operates at speeds
of 20 to 30 m/min in single operation, and up to 65 m/min in tandem configuration. This is valid
for a wide range of knitted fabrics. It meets all international shrinking standards.Attachments for
the new Toptex range of compressive shrinking devices are now available as modular-designed units,
including the steaming drum, the heating drum and the felt calendar. The modular attachments can be
installed to existing or new Toptex machines without requiring additional floor space. A new jet
cooler also extends the life of the rubber compressive shrinking belt on narrow fabric runs when
the belt is not covered by fabric and runs against the heating drum.All Toptex units are now fitted
with an Auto Shrinking Control to provide reproducible shrinking values. The introduction of the
Qualitex PLC technology for shrinkage control was a major step forward in technology. Monforts
claims to be the leader under the suppliers of sanforising machines.Sperotto Rimar SpA, Italy
(Speizman Industries, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the Plurima wet-sueding machine. Compared to the
traditional dry-sueding technique, the wet-sueding distinguishes itself in achieving new and
different effects, such as surface softening without pile formation perceivable to the touch and
surface appearance similar to discoloration and/or aging typical of aged and/or worn fabrics. These
effects are now required by the market since they are meeting the current fashion trends.The water
presence in the Plurima wet-sueding machine carries out a fiber lubricating action on the fabric.
This allows more superficial abrading action, less fibrous material to be removed, a lower pile
raising and the development of short and thick pile.The fabric types that proved to be particularly
suitable for the wet-sueding processing are the woven fabrics, from the lightest poplin to the
heaviest cloth with drill weaving construction. In the cotton sector, the application is for
100-percent cotton and cotton/polyester, cotton/polyamide, cotton/viscose blends and denim fabrics.
In the synthetics fiber sector, typical applications are for 100-percent polyester, 100-percent
polyamide and their blends with viscose/rayon and 100-percent viscose/rayon. In the wool sector,
100-percent wool, wool/viscose/rayon blends and wool/silk blends are typical applications.Sperotto
Rimar also offers the Velura raising machine series, which was developed based on technical studies
and technological evaluations of factors and parameters that are crucial for carrying out raising
and napping treatments. The goal was to substantially improve the overall performance by
considering qualitative, productive and operative points of view.The Velura raising machines
feature automatic adjustment of the fabric tension at the inlet and the outlet side of the drum.
This allows a consequent productivity increase by more than 50 percent compared to conventional
machines. Further advantages are the full control of the selvedge tension, the automatic correction
of misalignment, automatic control of the brushing phase and the protection system for stooping the
machine if a seam should split.According to the company, the Velura machine technology can achieve
a better covering effect of the fabric surface, very low fiber removal from the fabric , negligible
reduction of the fabric width and weight, as well as even and reproducible raising
effects.Sucker-Muller-Hacoba, Germany (Hacoba Textile Machinery, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the
Multicut MC-5 shearing machine. It is a machine for surface treatment of a variety of fabrics, such
as velours, blankets, milled cloth and pile fabrics. In the Multicut MC-5, the arrangement of the
shearing spirals on the shearing cylinder has been changed when compared to conventional shearing
machines. The company claims that the patented shearing cylinder enables the user to step up
production by up to 100 percent, compared to conventional machines. The speed advantage depends on
the type of fabric, while at the same time, the undesirable moire effect in short-pile fabrics can
be avoided. This relates to velvets, cut- and woven piles, terry cloth, warp knit velours,
velveteen fabrics and others. The shearing spirals of the Multicut MC-5 have been arranged
asymmetrically on the shearing cylinder. This prevents periodic variations by interrupting the
uniform, constant cutting sequence. Peaks of periodic variations are no longer apparent in spite of
substantially higher fabric speeds.The MC-5 is a compact shearing machine that takes up little
space and has short fabric passages, which does away with the problem of edge curling in styles
where fabric tension is a critical factor. The machine can handle short- and long-pile fabrics and
can be used to establish a multi-purpose machine. It is available as a basic module just for
shearing, but a polishing module, bed-raising module, or pile-lifting module, including a cleaning
feature, can be added. The modules are interchangeable and can also be retrofitted at a later
time.The cloth-shearing machine is used as a stand-alone unit, which can also be complemented to
form a shearing line by connecting additional shearing modules.Finishing AccessoriesSimTek,
Greensboro, N.C., offers an important accessory for the finishing mills the patented Rabbit Runner.
This is a highly sensitive, quick-response data acquisition instrument that records the actual
measured temperature profile of a fabric or web as it moves through an oven. With it, the finisher
can accurately track and record the temperature of a fabric moving through an oven at 200+ ypm.The
Rabbit Runners components are rugged enough for use on the production floor. It is available with
an assortment of ultra-fast response J-type thermocouple temperature probes. Each probe and
locating jig is sized and configured for a particular fabric type, production speed range and
process application. The Rabbit Runner can be used to determine actual distances to dry and
subsequent fabric/web heat-up rates. It determines maximum fabric temperatures in oven locations,
dwell time above any user-defined critical temperature and fabric cooldown rate. It can also
identify side-center-side fabric temperature differences, assist in establishing production
settings to achieve a desired fabric thermal exposure and troubleshoot oven and process
issues.Typical applications where the Rabbit Runner has been used to document product thermal
exposures in various types of production ovens are sheeting, scrim, lace goods, flocked fabrics,
scrape-coated goods, carpet, upholstery fabrics, highly napped materials, air bag fabrics, apparel
fabrics, fiberglass, Lycra-based fabrics and industrial fabrics.The Rabbit Runner has been
successfully used in the industry since the 1980s in applications on tenter frames, relaxed dryers,
print ranges, curing ovens, carpet dryers, fiberglass ovens, multi-pass ovens, infrared units and
suction drum dryers.
May 2000

Solutia Adds Consumer-Oriented Section To Website

Solutia AddsConsumer-Oriented Section To WebsiteAtlanta-based Solutia, the company behind the Wear-Dated® upholstery fabric program, has expanded its website to include an enhanced customer-oriented section. Here, top designers reveal their thoughts on upcoming trends, tips on mixing patterns and textures, and what should be considered when decorating or redesigning a room. The first featured designer is Carole DArconte, president of The Color Portfolio.This section will not only include photographs of the featured designers work, but a “contact us” option as well, where visitors can submit comments and questions.Other highlights of the site include details on how to file a claim and a display of Wear-Dateds advertisements which have appeared in trade and consumer publications. Existing features, such as information about Wear-Dated warranties, cleaning recommendations and the companys retailer locator, have been repositioned and revamped to fit into the new consumer section.”The image of our enhanced consumer website complements the advertising campaign as well as our new logo and printed materials, which includes items such as brochures and hang tags. The site reflects the values and sentiments of todays busy lifestyles and provides consumers with the information on Wear-Dated products and services they want and need,” said Christine Whittemore, Acrilan business director for home furnishings.In the future, the company plans to add a section where salespeople can download retail-oriented information that can be inserted into binders and used as guides to improve upon key Wear-Dated selling points. A password-accessible newsroom will also be incorporated for media. May 2000

Novelaire Yarns Opens New Yarn Manufacturing Plant

Novelaire Yarns OpensNew Yarn Manufacturing PlantNovelaire Yarns, a division of Astro Dye Works Inc., recently opened a new plant in Calhoun, Ga., dedicated to novelty and ring-twisted yarns.According to Richard Montanaro, president, the opening is a direct result of the strong demand for novelty twisted products from its home furnishings, apparel and automotive customers.Novelaire manufactures a full line of novelty twisted products, including roving-based yarns, boucles, mock chennilles and shantungs in cotton, rayon, polyester and acrylic fibers.May 2000

People

PeopleThe board of directors of Russell Corp., Atlanta, has announced that Jonathan R. Letzler has been elected to a newly created executive vice president position for the corporation. Letzler is responsible for the JERZEES Activewear retail and artwear businesses, DeSoto Mills and the Cross Creek Apparel division.Letzler joined Russell in 1998 as senior vice president of the corporation and CEO of JERZEES Activewear. He had previously been with Sara Lee Corp.Paul Kennedy has joined Russell Athletic as vice president of customer supply and logistics. In this newly created position, Kennedy will be responsible for the entire customer supply system.William G. Kelley, chairman, CEO and president of Consolidated Stores Corp., was recently elected to the board of directors of Springs Industries Inc., Fort Mill, S.C.Assyst-Bullmer Inc., Atlanta, has announced the following additions to its sales, support and marketing teams.Brad Mikes is the new Southern Region sales manager. He will manage sales in Georgia, Florida, North and South Carolina and Virginia.Jeff Bunn is the new CAM products sales manager. He manages sales operations for CAM products throughout the United States.Mike Griffin is the new CAM products specialist. He is responsible for all CAM product sales, including demonstrations, cut tests and sales support.Nan Frazee-Byington is the new marketing communications manager, responsible for advertising, marketing collateral, event marketing, press relations and general brand building.May 2000

Teaming History With Technology


Teaming History With Technology
La France serves diverse market Mount Vernons La France plant has a rich history.
There has been a textile plant at this site since the late 1830s. The operation started out as
Pendleton Manufacturing Co. and has had several name changes over the years.We know that it is the
oldest textile mill in Anderson County, and weve been told that its the oldest in South Carolina,
said Nick Caldwell, president, La France Division.Benjamin F. Sloan, Thomas M. Sloan, John T. Sloan
and Enoch Berry Benson purchased the land that was to become the site of the La France plant in
1836.Operations began in February of 1838. Pendleton Manufacturing Co. actually issued its own
paper money in the 1860s signed by Benjamin F. Sloan. During the Civil War the company produced
blankets for the Confederate Army. In 1879, Augustus Sitton purchased the company and renamed the
community Autun, a combination of his name and his wifes Aull.The community and company were
renamed La France in the 1930s when La France Industries purchased the mill. La France Industries
transferred its upholstery manufacturing operation there 10 years after the purchase. In 1953, the
mill expanded into automotive upholstery.La France became part of the Mount Vernon family in 1985
when the company purchased Riegel Textile Corp.Visitors to todays La France see no evidence of this
longevity. The plant is a thoroughly modern 675,000-square-foot-facility. It employs almost 500
people, both salaried and hourly.If you make a profit in Mount Vernon, they will keep you
state-of-the-art, said Jackie Bridges, La France Griege Mill plant manager. This is probably the
most versatile, state-of-the-art plant of its type in the world. When Mount Vernon bought the plant
they completely modernized it.As an example, division managers point to a 1994-95 modernization
program in which Mount Vernon spent $42 million at La France. The money was mainly spent on new
equipment for weaving, slashing, finishing and package dyeing. 
Jackie
Bridges, general manager weaving Beginning With Yarn
The plant
does not have yarn production capability, and gets its yarn from other Mount Vernon operations and
outside vendors. In fact, La France has 41 yarn vendors. At one time, the plant had 3,200 yarn
SKUs. It trimmed that down to 600 SKUs.La Frances design staff works to keep yarn SKUs down by
using common warps and being selective about filling yarns.Production processes here include
package dyeing, weaving preparation, plush and flat weaving and finishing.La France services
several diverse market segments. Product type and customer divide these segments. On the plush
woven side the divisions markets include automotive upholstery (a joint venture with Chatham
Manufacturing), class A truck upholstery and paint roller fabrics.The flat woven side has several
categories and customers. The plant produces napery and baby blanket fabric for Mount Vernons
Consumer Products Division. It also makes specialty tapestry fabrics for several products including
pillows, table runners, wall hangings and throws. In addition, La France weaves commodity furniture
upholstery fabrics that are heat-transfer printed. The division also manufactures furniture
upholstery fabrics in partnership with several major players in that market segment.Each of these
segments has its own driving forces and histories. The plush products are strong year round. Paint
roller fabrics are in higher demand in the summer. The big truck portion of La Frances business had
a record year last year. The divisions flat tapestry fabrics are seasonal, and Christmas (March to
October) is the biggest season. In addition to all this, La France does some commission yarn
dyeing. Package Dyeing Through FinishingThe package dyeing area has Loris Bellini dye
machines. These include five production machines and one sample machine.In weaving preparation the
plant has a McCoy Ellison direct warper. There are two high-speed warpers. One is from McCoy
Ellison. The other is from Hacoba. There are two Ira Griffin dry beamers. A Benninger sectional
warper and a Hacoba-Sucker-Mueller slasher round out the department.The slasher is equipped with a
pre-dryer from Textile Technology Exchange. It has proven to be handy for selected styles. The
plant also uses McCoy Ellison warp creels.The flat jacquard area is equipped with Dornier rapier
and Picanol air-jet looms. Each machine has an Alexander Machinery off-loom take-up. Alexander
Machinery also planned the layout for both the flat and plush weave rooms. Sohler Airtex traveling
cleaners control lint in weaving.The plush weaving area has Gilbos and Murata winders for winding
and back winding. Michel Van de Wiele looms are used to produce these pile fabrics. The machines
are equipped with IRO weft feeders and Staubli jacquard and dobby heads. The plant has 60 dobby
plush machines and 26 jacquard plush machines. La France recently converted some of the plush
jacquard looms over to dobby heads to meet increased demand for dobby fabrics. The plant uses a
Barco monitoring system to track quality and production.In the finishing area, the plant has two
Marshall and Williams tenter frames. One is running inline with a Kusters piece dye range.
Slitting, shearing and inspection also take place here. The shearing machines are from
M-Tec. Painting A Perfect Product
La
France has been producing fabric for paint rollers for at least 35 years. Customer needs in this
product area have changed significantly over the years, and this serves as a great example of La
Frances innovative spirit.Making paint roller fabric is a multi-step process. First the plush
fabric is woven. Next it is brushed to remove lint. Then a latex backing is applied using a tenter
frame. Finally the fabric is slit into narrow strips and shipped to the customer.Over time some of
La Frances larger paint-roller fabric customers changed over to a process in which they switched
from a cardboard core to a phenolic core formed on the fly. This gave the product an improved wear
life. So La France worked to develop a fabric that would attach to a hot phenolic core.We put a
polyethylene filling yarn in the fabric which melts at a temperature near that of the phenolic core
and bonds to it, said Bernie Thompson, La France Finishing plant manager.We have three customers on
it right now, and they probably represent 75 percent of the paint rollers sold in this country.La
France also developed its own fabric slitting system for paint roller fabric production. About five
years ago La Frances plant engineer, Ted Hedden, designed a new system for guiding fabric into the
slitter.This innovation solved La Frances slitting problems and automated what had been basically a
hand operation. Alexander Machinery was brought onboard to build the machine. This slitting
operation is very precise. The goal is not to cross a warp end during the slitting process.We were
constantly bombarded with slit variation problems before we had this system in place, said
Thompson. We rarely have a problem now.The division also had a Canadian customer that was having
problems with the acrylic latex backing, so La France developed a neoprene backing for them.The
plant makes fabric for both industrial and consumer paint rollers. Some of the paint roller fabric
for consumer use is now being dyed pink to appeal to women buyers. It turns out that women buy most
of the paint rollers, just as they do for many other textile products.
May 2000

DuPont Lycra Introduces Toeless Legwear

DuPont Lycra Introduces Toeless LegwearDuPont Lycra®, New York City, recently launched a toeless hosiery line that will be sold exclusively on its website, www.lycra.com.This new line has all the trademarks of traditional Lycra hosiery. It tones, stimulates and revitalizes the leg, but it varies from the traditional silhouette. Stopping above the ball of the foot, this style allows for the natural exposure of the toes, so women can feel confident in sandals or open-toe evening pumps.According to the company, there is no slippage or gathering of material at the foot. There is a Lycra band around the foot and a security loop around the big toe to maintain comfort, fit and freedom of movement throughout the garment. May 2000

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