Technology: SpinningBy William Oxenham, Ph.D.Developments In Spinning
An overview of yarn formation technologiesDuring the 1970s, there appeared to be a myriad
of spinning systems, such as twistless spinning, self-twist spinning, fasciated yarns, composite
yarns, wrap-spun yarns, pot spinning, continuously felted yarns; and the many possible variants in
open-end spinning such as rotor, electrostatic, friction spinning, and vortex spinning (the
original Polish system). At the same time, there were continued developments in ring spinning, with
ventures into rotating ring and traveler systems, individual spindle drives, high draft systems,
modified travelers, double roving spinning, and hybrid systems.A look at todays industry reveals
that while some systems have established a successful but small niche wrap spinning for fancy
yarns, and friction spinning for specialty industrial markets very few systems have survived.
Indeed, this is also true of the manufacturers of these machines.Figure 1 represents the current
offerings in spinning machines and their comparative spinning speeds. Table 1 summarizes the number
of spinning positions for the major technologies, together with their share of the spun yarn
market. It is evident that, when judged from the perspective of the number of installed spindles,
ring spinning is still the most dominant spinning system there are about three times more spindles
than installed rotors. If judgment is based on the quantity of yarn produced, it is clear that even
though there are only one-third as many positions of rotors installed, rotor spinning produces
three times more yarn than ring spinning.

Figure 1: Potential short-staple spinning systemRing SpinningThe technology behind ring
spinning has remained largely unchanged for many years, but there have been significant
refinements. Changes, which on their own offered only slight advantages, provided the following
synergies when combined:The introduction of longer frames reduced the relative costs of automatic
doffing.The combination of spinning frame and winding (link winders) further enhanced the adoption
of automation.The introduction of automatic doffing meant that doffing time was reduced and thus
package (and ring) size was less critical.The introduction of splicing on the winder meant that
yarn joins became less obtrusive again offering the potential of smaller package.Smaller rings
meant that for a limiting traveler velocity (40 meters per second [m/s]), higher rotational speeds
(and hence twisting rates) could be achieved.These combinations meant that the potential maximum
speed of ring spinning was raised from about 15,000 to 25,000 revolutions per minute. There also
have been several other proposed developments that have met with mixed success. Drafting systems:
While double apron drafting dominates, the system can be tweaked to enable higher drafts. Recent
exhibitions have featured machines operating at potential drafts of 70 to 100. The use of high
drafts has significant impact on the economics of the total system. Individual spindle drives:
Several manufacturers demonstrated this possibility in the 1980s. While the concept offered
advantages with respect to lower energy requirements, less noise and better control of speed, it
suffered higher initial costs and bigger spindle gauge.Ring DesignSeveral approaches to reducing
the limitations of traditional rings and travelers have been proposed. Orbit ring: This development
from Rieter was aimed at increasing heat dissipation from the traveler.Ceramic rings (Ceratwine
system): The combination of a ceramic ring and ceramic-coated traveler offered the promise of
significantly better wear resistance, which translates into long traveler life. More consistent
yarn quality and shorter break-in time are other claimed benefits.Rotating rings: This idea was
tried by several ring frame manufacturers in the 1970s. Other ventures into this area included
systems such as Cerifil, Magnetic Spinning and Super Traveler Spinning. The problem with these
types of devices is, while they appear to operate at lower spinning tensions, and thus potentially
offer lower end breakage rates, they suffer the drawbacks of short duration and high-magnitude
tension peaks because of the inertia of the twisting element, which is significantly higher than a
traveler. Spindle identification (Schlafhorst, Barco): The tracking of spindles from the ring frame
has great potential for process quality control. This enables the identification of those spindles
on the ring frame that are responsible for producing defective yarns, as assessed on the winding
frame. It is believed this type of system will result in improvements not only in yarn quality, but
also in efficiency, by more readily indicating faulty positions on the spinning frame.Longer
machines: Improvements in the drives used on spinning frames have enabled the number of spindles
per machine to be further increased up to 1,488 (Zinser). This has a positive impact on the cost
per spindle. Additionally, as indicated above, longer machines favor the use of automation,
particularly link-winding. Compact spinning: Systems that use additional drafting components and
pneumatics to create yarns that are less hairy and stronger are available from several machinery
makers. The many claims made for these systems are usually mutually exclusive in that one can
either have a stronger yarn or spin at higher production speeds with lower twist. Moreover, there
is a significant increase in the cost of these machines, and the yarn thereby produced, when
compared to traditional spinning frames. While the use of compact spinning machines is claimed to
have made significant inroads in Europe, the system has not been well-received in the United
States. It is evident that several other machinery makers will venture into this market, such as
Marzoli and Cognetex, and this added competition may result in reduced machinery costs.

 Rotor SpinningRotor or open-end spinning is now a mature technology, and since the
1960s, it has seen a five-fold increase in twisting speeds. During the early stages of development,
debates concerned such questions as:Were self-pumping or evacuated systems betterWas roller
drafting feed superior to a beater openerWas spin through better than feed and withdrawal from the
same face of the rotor Were twin disc bearings the best solution for higher speedsThese issues were
seemingly resolved, and most modern rotor machines are very similar in layout with relatively
subtle differences between machines from the major manufacturers. These differences are typically
associated with the aerodynamics of the transfer tube, rotor design and navel design.While it is
still possible to obtain low-tech rotor spinning frames, present state-of-the-art machines have
significant integrated automation such as doffing, piecing, cleaning and process/product
monitoring. Additionally, the machine can be part of a material handling system from sliver through
to packaged yarn. It is generally accepted that, while rotor yarns are different from ring-spun
yarns, they tend to offer advantages in processing through weaving and knitting. This difference is
a result of structural differences introduced during yarn formation. This structure which is
responsible for the lower strength of rotor yarns, but improved hairiness and yarn abrasion is an
inherent feature of the system. While it is possible to control the formation of wrapper fibers by
optimizing rotor and navel designs, it is impossible to eliminate them. Unfortunately, while
smaller rotors are required for higher processing speeds, this also negatively impacts wrapper
fibers, and thus higher speeds often carry the penalty of a reduction in yarn quality. Developments
in rotor spinning include the use of longer machines. Additionally, there is interest in
potentially using rotor technology to produce core yarns and using additional components to create
effect yarns.Fasciated YarnsWhile initially there were several potential manufacturers of machines
for this technology, the market has been dominated by Murata, with its jet spinning and vortex
spinning systems. Murata Jet Spinning (MJS) gained a small, but significant, share in the
polyester/cotton yarn market. The advantage of the system was that it offered high-speed production
of finer-count yarns and thus did not directly compete with rotor spinning. Since its commercial
launch as MJS, several variants have been introduced, including Murata Twin Spin (MTS) and Roller
Jet Spinning (RJS). Different jets also were offered to accommodate different yarn styles. These
offerings were to extend the use of jet spinning, with particular respect to fiber type and yarn
count. Jet spinning has the major disadvantage of not being able to produce acceptable 100-percent
cotton yarns. Furthermore, MJS is restricted to finer counts because yarn tenacity reduces as the
yarn becomes coarser. For optimum processing, there also are higher quality requirements on the
feed sliver with extra drawing or combing operations. Despite these limitations, and the necessity
to optimize finishing in order to promote an acceptable hand, jet spinning is a viable system in
the United States because of high productivity 250 meters per minute (m/min) for the MJS 802H and
adequate yarn and fabric quality. As a bonus, the core sheath structure of the yarn tends to
minimize hairiness, which in turn reduces pilling propensity, often a major problem with
polyester-rich blends.Murata Vortex SpinningMurata Vortex Spinning (MVS) is best judged as a
development of jet spinning specifically created to overcome the limitations of fiber type. The
major marketing feature of MVS was that it was capable of spinning uncombed cotton slivers into
acceptable yarns at speeds that were significantly higher than with any other system. The yarn
structure is different from jet-spun yarn with many more wrapper fibers, and in parts the vortex
yarn resembles a two-fold yarn. There were concerns that there is excessive fiber loss using this
spinning machine. But, even though the fiber loss may be about 8 percent, most of this is short
fiber, which would not contribute to yarn quality. MVS was introduced with a remarkable potential
processing speed of 350 to 400 m/min. Successful spinning systems historically have had a
significant increase in production speed within a few years of introduction. If this trend were to
be true of MVS, it is possible that the industry could have a staple spinning frame capable of
speeds in excess of 500 m/min.Even though it is claimed that MVS is capable of processing
100-percent cotton, it is believed that the major use of this system is in the processing of
cotton-rich blends with polyester. The machine utilizes a roller drafting system working at high
drafts and high speeds. There is proof that indicates these systems may give rise to unacceptable
yarn variations, which become apparent in terms of fabric defects or weak spots in the yarn. This
is a problem that could be addressed by using the rotor spinning beater opener. New developments
likely for MVS include modifications to enable the production of coarser counts and a possible
re-examination of the concept of spin assembly winding, where yarns from two spinning positions are
combined onto one package that is subsequently two-for-one twisted. It is also evident, from a
cursory review of patents, that other machinery makers have invested in significant research into
technology similar to vortex spinning and perhaps there soon may be alternative machines
available.It is clear that at the present time, there is a lull in investment in new spinning
machinery in the United States. This could be explained partly by a downturn in the industry, which
seems to be supported by the reduction in positions shown in Table 1, and partly by the fact that
the current technologies are mature.

Source: Everette Scarboro W. Schlafhorst AGandCo.An additional factor in this consideration
is that as spinning machines become more productive, the number of machines needed to satisfy a
particular market will decline. It is quite evident from the data shown in Table 2, that among all
the major spinning technologies used in the United States, there has been a very substantial
increase in productivity over the past 10 years. The table does not include the impact of changing
from jet spinning to vortex spinning, which would show an even greater increase in productivity for
this type of yarn.
Editors Note: William Oxenham, Ph.D., is associate dean for academic programs at North Carolina
State Universitys Department of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, Raleigh, N.C.
Oxenham received both a B.Sc. and Ph.D. from the University of Leeds, England, and is regarded as
an international expert in the area of yarn manufacturing.

May 2003

ATMI Annual MeetingBy James A. Morrissey, Washington Correspondent Opportunities
Textile industry leaders see problems, but also some opportunities ahead.At a critical
time in the history of the US textile industry, mill executives attending the 54th annual American
Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) meeting took a hard look at the future, saw some mighty big
problems, and discussed what they need to do in order to survive in the increasingly competitive
world market for textiles.During three days of information-packed sessions, ATMI members and
government officials discussed ways to combat a continuing wave of imports and limited overseas
markets for US textiles and apparel that have resulted in a textile trade deficit of $5 billion,
the loss of 25,000 jobs in the past year and seven consecutive years of declining textile mill
shipments. Overshadowing the discussions was the specter of the impending removal of all textile
and apparel quotas in less than two years.By far the biggest news was made by US Department of
Commerce Under Secretary of International Trade Administration Grant Aldonas, who reiterated the
Bush administrations commitment to help the US textile industry become more competitive in world
markets. He also made a long-awaited announcement of the governments plans to deal with import
surges from China.

Grant Aldonas, under secretary of international trade with theUS Department of Commerce, is
commited to helping the UStextile industry become more competitive in international markets.When
China became a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO) at the beginning of last year, it was
permitted to catch up on a seven-year quota phaseout that other WTO members had enjoyed. There was
an immediate surge of imports in the decontrolled categories that contributed to a 135-percent
increase in imports from China. Last August, ATMI filed a petition with the Committee for the
Implementation of Textile Agreements (CITA), asking that the quotas be reimposed under the
so-called safeguard mechanism in the China WTO accession agreement.Aldonas announcement was well
received by the leadership of ATMI, although Chairman Van May expressed his disappointment that it
was so long in coming. May said it now appears that the government will act under a strict
timetable, and he said ATMI is looking at additional product categories where Chinese exports are
disrupting the US market.Under the safeguard guidelines, a petitioner for relief must provide CITA
with detailed documentation of a claim that a product from China is creating market disruption or
threatening to impede the orderly development of trade in such products. Once a petition is filed,
CITA will call for public comment and within 60 days of the close of the comment period, CITA must
seek consultations with China. If those consultations are not satisfactory, the United States may
take unilateral action. Some industry observers said the consultation process could be drawn out
and frustrate efforts to get timely relief, but Aldonas said the US government would act to
expedite the process, and he would not permit anyone to game the system.In another announcement
that warmed the hearts of attendees, Aldonas said the United States will take unilateral action
against Vietnam if a bilateral textile agreement cannot be reached in the near future. He also said
an aid package offered to Turkey in return for support of the war in Iraq will not contain any
textile concessions. During the 1991 Gulf War, the United States doubled Turkeys textile quotas in
return for permission to use its air bases to attack Iraq. The US government reportedly offered a
similar increase recently to Turkey, but Aldonas said that is not going to happen this time
around.On another front in the trade battle, Aldonas announced that the government is moving
forward to develop techniques for tracing illegal textile and apparel imports. The Department of
Energys Oak Ridge National Laboratory is working on three possible approaches to creating a marker
system that will help Customs agents determine the country of origin of imports and whether they
are illegal transshipments.Two panel discussions at the annual meeting addressed steps textile
manufacturers can take to increase their ability to gain greater access to foreign markets. David
Hastings, CFO, Mount Vernon Mills, Greenville, led a discussion on how textile companies can
overcome difficulties in financing exports, and problems such as difficulties in payment
collection. James Morris, Southeast director, Export-Import Bank of the United States (Ex-Im Bank),
Washington, discussed how loans from the bank can help textile exporters overcome serious
commercial and political risks involved in exporting to certain countries. Morris said many
problems arise from the fact that textile manufacturers want cash or at least guarantees in
advance, and potential overseas customers want to pay only after their products are sold at retail.
He urged textile manufacturers to take advantage of Ex-Im Bank programs to help reduce the risks of
dealing with overseas customers.Morris said Ex-Im Bank offers insured loans at reasonable rates
with virtually no minimum or maximum on contracts where there is reasonable assurance of payment.
Eligible products must have at least 51-percent US content. He said a particular advantage of Ex-Im
Bank loans is that companies can pay a monthly premium on goods only as their goods are shipped,
thus avoiding up-front payments for the entire amount of the loan.Bohdan Sosiak, partner with Risk
Protection International LLC, Stratford, Conn., discussed how risk insurance can help protect
textile exporters from losses due to a number of causes. He said the basic goal of risk insurance
is to help exporters sell goods abroad and get paid for them, and this can be accomplished by
insuring against both commercial and political risks. On the commercial side, this means insuring
against slow pay and protracted defaults, insolvency and bankruptcy. It also is possible to get
insurance against foreign government actions such as embargoes and license revocations, currency
inconvertibility and transfers, political expropriation and wars, and rebellions and revolutions.
In addition, Sosiak said risk insurers can provide a good deal of client support by providing
market intelligence, evaluations of potential customers and help in finding lending opportunities.
With respect to market intelligence, it is possible to provide insights into country risks,
underwriting trends and financing options, Sosiak said.

Emy Ruiz, senior vice president and international trade finance manager, Union Planters Bank,
Memphis, Tenn., said financing also is available from international banks. She underscored the
importance of working with an experienced international financing institution when dealing with
such things as letters of credit, international monetary transfers and payment methods. Ruiz urged
textile companies to work with either Ex-Im Bank or commercial lenders, and pointed out a
little-known fact that cotton textile manufacturers can take advantage of the governments Commodity
Credit Corp. financing, which many believe is available only to agricultural commodities.A panel of
leading Latin American trade experts took a look at what moderator G. Stephen Felker, chairman,
president and CEO of Avondale Mills Inc., Monroe, Ga., called the good, the bad and the promising
aspects of textile trade among the nations of the Western Hemisphere. For the most part, the
panelists were optimistic about opportunities to compete against products from China and other
major overseas exporters, which many feel will overwhelm the US market once import quotas are
removed, and if there are significant tariff reductions as a result of the current WTO
negotiations. Jesus Canahuati, general manager, Central American Elastics and Textiles (ELCATEX),
Honduras, the largest textile manufacturer in Central America, emphasized that the single biggest
competitive advantage countries in the hemisphere have is their proximity to the US market and what
that means in terms of inventory control, lead time, warehousing, style changes and eliminating
overstocking of goods. He said that in order to benefit from these advantages, textile companies
throughout the area must improve their communications and work cooperatively to respond to customer
demands. Carlos Arias, vice president, Koramsa, a major apparel manufacturer in Guatemala,
emphasized that worldwide competition has resulted in more demanding and sophisticated consumers
who are more price-and quality-conscious than ever. In every case, the Latin American experts rated
high the prospects for special regional trade agreements. But they underscored the importance of
developing partnerships now in order to encourage investments and fend off the increased
competition that will come when import quotas are removed worldwide. US textile manufacturers
expressed concern with the so-called Tariff Preference Levels (TPLs) that are in some of the
agreements. TPLs enable countries that are not participants in the agreements to enjoy preferential
quota and tariff treatment for a given amount of exports up to a specified level. The US textile
industry is strongly opposed to TPLs, but the US government seems willing to grant them in
connection with some of the regional preferential agreements under certain circumstances. Industry
officials also expressed fear that the US governments proposal to eventually eliminate all tariffs
on textiles and apparel will undercut the advantages of the regional pacts.At the meetings closing
session, Lawrence Chimerine, Ph.D., an economic forecaster, told attendees that the US economy has
slowed, but it is not collapsing, and he expects things to improve before long. He looks forward to
a better and more balanced economy than the United States had in the 90s, and expects modest growth
depending on the outcome of the war in Iraq and its aftermath. Chimerine said the current slow
economic growth is the result of nervousness about spending by consumers, war worries and the fear
of terrorism, a severe winter and a late Easter that delayed retail spending. At the same time, he
said, things are looking up inflation will remain under control, oil prices will decline, jobs will
come back in some areas of the economy, there will be tax cuts, and the Department of Homeland
Security will create additional government and civilian employment. Chimerine also looks for
improvements on the international trade front, since the trade deficit has become a major concern
across the entire manufacturing segment of the economy. This means the textile industry could have
more powerful allies in its international trade battles.

May 2003

Pillowtex
Relaunches Cannon® BrandAfter spending more than 10 years in the shadows, Kannapolis, N.C.-based
Pillowtex Corp.s Cannon® brand of bed and bath textiles resurfaced with the introduction of a new,
updated product line during Home Fashions Week, held in late March in New York City. With
assistance from several consumer research and brand consulting firms, Pillowtex determined that
Cannon is the most recognized and most favored brand of home fashion textiles. The new product line
was developed in response to feedback from consumers and retail customers. Products are offered in
12 core colors. Four colorways including mix-and-match sheet patterns are based on four of the core
colors.With a rich heritage dating back to 1887, Cannon is an American and global icon. Consumers
equate Cannon with tradition, value, quality and honesty, said Mike Gannaway, chairman and CEO,
Pillowtex. With great pride we are relaunching the Cannon brand to offer value- and
quality-conscious consumers a time-tested and trusted product line that delivers exactly what
consumers asked for products that look and perform the way they should.
May 2003