2000 Award For InnovationBy Chuck Norton,Assistant Editor Taking Care Of Number One
Through diversification, new technology and flexibility, Brenham keeps its customers
happy. 
It is
about the little things, the details that make an above-average textile operation an extraordinary
one. The Brenham, Texas, operation of Mount Vernon has taken innovative steps to improve efficiency
and to further satisfy its customers needs for fewer defects and lowered lead-time by focusing on
details that other manufacturers may overlook. All the while setting a standard in waste handling
and recycling.In 1992, Mount Vernon Mills acquired Brentex Inc., which included the Brenham and
Cuero, Texas, operations. Ironically enough, both the Brenham and Cuero plants were built in 1901,
and both have seen many renovations over the years. These two plants, along with the recently
acquired Columbus, Miss., facility, currently make up the Brentex Division of Mount Vernon.Brenham
has evolved into a plant consisting of a greige mill, a wet-processing facility and a die-cutting
division for pocketing. The plant produces pocketing and also dyes and finishes boat cover fabric
and other greige fabrics. The facility is vertically integrated, a fact that Kent Snow, president
of the Brentex division, says is key to maintaining Mount Vernons competitive edge.Having a
vertically integrated facility something our competitors dont have allows our customers to be
better served while reducing their lead-time, Snow said. New TechnologySince 1994, the company
has installed new spinning frames, looms, cards, drawframes and opening and cleaning lines. The
Brenham operation uses Rieter machines exclusively with three Uniclean opening, blending and
cleaning lines, 20 C4 cards and eight drawframes. The operation also has 13 Schlafhorst spinning
frames, two Reed Chatwood warpers and 146 air-jet looms all of which are Sulzer Textil 5100 or 5200
looms.In the dyeing and finishing area, a recently purchased Griffin slasher is being used as a
beta tester for Mount Vernon Mills to run prewetting trails. The plants finishing operation, which
is maintained to maximize flexibility, has a 79-inch Morrison tenter frame and an 84-inch Monforts
tenter frame using Kuster pads. The company invested in weft strengtheners for the tenter frames to
further improve quality. Also in place is a 90-inch Sanforizer for wide goods, which adds to the
divisions ability to meet market demands. To further improve defect detection, Mount Vernon expects
to have a new Elbit Systems EBX 2000 inspection system in place by the end of the
year. Vertical Die-Cutting
One of the plants largest undertakings was the 1996 addition of an Eastman die-cutting
line for pocketing. Mount Vernon wanted to add this line in order to shorten the lead-time for its
customers and also improve its own competitive advantage by becoming a vertically integrated
die-cutting operation. The process was a slow and arduous one, as many of those who worked on the
design and installation, including Keith Soechting, Brenham dyeing and finishing plant manager, had
not worked on this type of operation before. However, upon completion of the project, Mount Vernon
immediately began to see rewards.Having a die-cutting department in-house allows us to address many
customer spreading issues, Soechting said. We can make corrections in an attempt to resolve their
problem and then evaluate a spread in-house before shipping the goods to their plant.Soechting went
on to say that this operation can cut down on shipping costs, production time lost, and it can
shorten the overall response time. Having a vertical die-cutting operation in-house also creates an
advantage in product development by shortening its lead-time. Mount Vernon also finds it to be
crucial to visit and maintain a presence in large customers facilities.We will go to see customers
as much as possible, said Snow. We want to see what the customer sees.According to Mount Vernon,
customers are happier with the lower defects and the reduced lead-time. These fewer defects
translate into fewer irregularities and fewer irregularities save the customers money. A one- to
two-week inventory is maintained for all cut-product customers, and the plant can usually ship the
product within 24 hours of receiving the companys request.We didnt want cut pockets to be an issue
in shipping a late shipment, Snow said. We have inventory on-site so if changes occur, supply is
still a worry-free situation for the customer.The company has an EDI system in place to transfer
information to and from its customers. This has allowed the plant and its customers to be more
informed and has provided a drastic improvement in efficiency.At Brenham, there is continual
capital investment to upgrade equipment throughout the plant. In the material handling area, there
have been several recent improvements. New clips for handling greige rolls have been added, as has
automated handling of cut pockets pallets to reduce damage.There has been a conversion from batcher
to A-frames. The Brehnam facility contains one of two certified testing labs for physical testing
within the company. Improving All Aspects
Many
of the non-technical innovations seen in the Brenham facility are related to the companys focus on
customer satisfaction, safety, the environment and reduction of waste. Mount Vernon uses what it
calls an offensive position on quality, safety and production, which has garnered the plant Mount
Vernons corporate safety award four years in a row.If you dont change, youre out of business, said
Michael Grunder, Brenham greige mill plant manager. Not sitting back being complacent is the key,
and having the right people in place is very important.Employees have input into the safety
program. There is an open-door policy with the workers about products, safety or any other subject
for that matter. The company finds it very important to generate new ideas and questions about how
improvements can be made. While this has become more difficult as the labor force has changed there
is a higher turnover rate due to the current economic climate the company feels it is still
imperative to gain knowledge from those associates that are on the production floor. It has also
caused the company to start documenting training procedures and sharing information more openly.The
turnover rate has caused Mount Vernon to create what it calls CBT (computer-based training). The
CBT system will reduce the time required to train new employees, especially in entry-level
positions. Waste ReductionThe recent years have seen Brenham make several changes to reduce
its waste, or waste for the customer. The company now ships its pallets with shrink-wrap rather
than strapping. Not only does this create less waste, but it also allows for easier access to the
pallet and causes less damage to the product.The use of the shrink-wrap also allows the pallet to
retain more structural integrity when only a partial shipment is used.The use of heat-shrunk pocket
bundles rather than boxes reduce Brenhams customers landfill costs a cost that is substantially
growing. The plant also requires that purchased yarn must come in a traypack to further improve the
companys recycling effort. Brenham has followed Mount Vernons company-wide movement from what we
call the old ways to a new environmental strategy, Snow said. All the chemicals that we buy are in
recycled material or the containers are returned to the supplier.Grunder continued: We have tried
to reduce hazardous chemicals as much as possible. We will reject chemicals if there is a negative
environmental effect, even if the chemical might be exactly what we are looking for. We try and
find another chemical that will do the job while being safe for the environment even if it means it
is a little more expensive. Trucking Right AlongThe Brentex division also maintains its own
trucking line, allowing for a reduction of lead-time and also valuable feedback about the condition
of its products at the time of delivery.We run our own trucks to our customers in order to ensure
our customers receive their products in a timely manner, Soechting said. This gives us the
flexibility to make more reliable emergency shipments and reduce handling of the goods at a freight
terminal for a better overall control of the shipping process.We receive direct feedback from our
drivers about what condition our goods arrive in and make note of the deficiencies before we get a
complaint from the customer and provide feedback to the warehouse personnel about ways to improve
loading trailers to make sure we reduce damage due to load shifting.  Maintaining ExcellenceAs
the company looks to the future, it knows that continued information sharing and open communication
will be important in maintaining the satisfaction of its customers and employees. One way to
accomplished this is through e-mail.The plant has seen an increase in contact with its sales force
and has been able to stay more informed by customers through e-mail.It has allowed us to expand our
knowledge base, Snow said. And it allows us to work more efficiently.As Brenham has shown, it takes
much more than new machines to make a mill.By focusing on the details, the plant has created a
climate not only conducive to high productivity, but also one of customer and employee
satisfaction.
May 2000

 Surface Finishing Gains New Precision
Trends in the latest surface finishing technologyIn recent years, surface finishing
technology has taken a hi-tech approach triggered by new fibers and fabrics that entered the
market, and, of course, customer demand for new products. ATI invited the major machinery
manufacturers to participate in a general update on finishing machinery technology. The following
article covers the suppliers that have responded to our invitation.Over all, there seems to be a
trend towards lighter weight fabrics with surface refinement. This trend incorporates the demand
for very soft fabrics, a typical application of sueding of woven and knitted fabrics. Sueding also
seems to take the lead in bottomweight goods over napping. Furthermore, customers are looking for
innovative surface finishes that include patterns. Microfiber fleeces are another interesting field
that opened up new applications, and the upholstery industry is still looking for great surface
appearance and a soft hand. The biggest problem of older finishing machinery was the incapability
of achieving the high precision settings that todays finishes require. Furthermore, 100-percent
repeatability of all settings and constant settings just seemed unachievable in high-production
environments. Today, with the introduction of sophisticated computer control systems and inverter
drives, many of the old problems are solved with new and very precise finishing machinery. Ultimate
tension control permits the processing of the lightest and most delicate fabrics. Since lead times
are much shorter than in the past, and many textile producers and textile finishers get beaten by
imports, there is no way around the fact that investing in the latest state-of-the-art surface
finishing machinery separates the winners form the masses.Fine Finishing MachineryBiancalani
S.p.A., Italy (Symtech Inc., Spartanburg, S.C.), has provided innovative finishing technology to
create the newest fashions in the textile industry for many years. Well known in the industry is
Biancalanis Airo tumbling process, which developed new applications in apparel, upholstery and
automotive applications that improved the look, hand and drapeability. Biancalanis product
development and customer input lead to the recently introduced machine called Petra, which is used
to create a new finish on a wide range of fabrics.The Petra machine offers a unique process that
incorporates the use of a series of synthetic pumice bars on the surface of cellulosic fabric to
remove the color. The fabric is impregnated with water as it reaches the treatment area, while the
pumice bars oscillate back and forth at a speed of 600 to 800 movements per minute. This high-speed
movement and the specially designed surface of the bars allow the fiber ends to be raised and then
removed with each oscillation. The end result is a uniform, continuous stone-washing treatment that
can be used on many products like denim, all kinds of cotton fabrics, linen, Tencel® and various
blended fabrics.The Petra technology is being used in the industry as a pretreatment of fabrics
prior to garment finishing or as the final treatment during the finishing stage for home furnishing
products. The process has assisted many garment producers in minimizing and even eliminating costly
enzymatic treatments, and has helped in minimizing defects. In the home furnishing markets, Petra
has created new looks and different hands which have opened new markets to Biancalanis customers.
Caru, Italy (The Patterson Group, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the sanding and sueding machine, model
CSM/6-B. The machine introduces patented, lightweight carbon composite sueding rolls. This
innovative six-roll sueding machine features AC inverter drives and PLC control, offering numerous
advantages over conventional machines, including speeding up the rolls to 2,800 rpm for maximum
production rates. It also drives individual sueding rolls in pile and counterpile directions for
special sueding effects.The PLC control assures uniform and repeatable processing. The special
pneumatic paper-clamping system automatically recovers any paper loosening due to wear and
temperature and gives a constant adjustment to the paper tightness. An oscillating motion of the
third and sixth rolls even the pile and hide eventual microdefects from prior processes. All of the
features of the CMS/6-B machine for dry sanding are also available on the AS/4 machine for wet
sanding.Cibitex Srl, Italy (The Patterson Group, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the Cibitex shrinking
unit (Cibi-Shrink) for woven fabrics, open-width knitted fabrics and denim fabrics. It incorporates
some of the highest precision manufacturing and latest technology to guarantee precise and
consistent shrinkage control.Cibitex uses the latest electronic technology and AC inverter drive
systems for a perfect synchronization. The Cibi-Shrink unit gives perfect shrinkage control and an
excellent improvement to the hand of the fabric. It is especially effective in the enhancement of
the soft fabric character of pigment-printed fabrics and knitted fabrics containing Lycra®.Cibitex
recently introduced the new compact version Cibi-Compactex, primarily used in-line with tenter
frame operations. This unit offers reduced floor space requirements and is used for small
corrections in shrinkage and hand enhancement. Cibitex has recently installed seven units in the
United States, working in-line and off-line. In production environments, the Cibi-Compactex has
proven to be economical, reliable and most effective in the processing of knitted and woven
fabrics. Comet SpA, Italy (Burlington Textile Machinery Corp., Burlington, N.C.), offers the
Polara, a combined raising and shearing machine that is electronically controlled. The operators
control panel with touch screen carries out instant and easy adjustments. Settings that were
difficult to achieve in the past are adjusted on Polara by inverter-driven motors, such as setting
the shearing height and synchronization of all functions.The machine also features trouble-shooting
functions and programmed maintenance control. All process parameters and machine set-ups can be
saved in process receipts that can be easily retrieved if the same style is processed again. The
process receipts can of course be modified if a similar fabric style would require this.Polara
features a drum with 14 pile-raising rollers and two contact areas of the drum. The shearing
cylinder, with a certain number of spiral blades, is suited to all types of processing. The machine
features a variable fabric speed from 0 to 30 m/min, and has seam detection by electronic sensors
for the displacement of the shearing table and the velveting comb. The velveting unit itself
consists of a brush and the equipment for the pile preparation for shearing. The shearing height
and the velveting brush depth are adjusted by electronic means. Options include a variable shearing
cylinder speed, a cleaning counter brush, a sliding hoist for the replacement of the shearing unit
and the device for pneumatically lifting the shearing cylinder from the ledger blade for sharpening
and cleaning. Also available are a “piano” rest on the velveting brush and the shearing head, the
automatic lubrication of the shearing cylinder felt and expanders for knits. Jaume Anglada Vinas,
Spain (The Patterson Group, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the Turbang TMS continuous open width tumbler.
The new TMS system (fourth generation) was debuted at ITMA 99 in Paris. It has proven to give
results equal to those machines using labor-intensive and costly batch processes. The Turbang is
one of the most unique finishing and drying machines on the market today, according to the company.
The new TMS system produces maximum softness on all types of fabrics. It is especially effective on
difficult fabrics such as upholstery, printed, jacquard, 100-percent cotton apparel, woven velvet
for automotive use, flocked upholstery, toweling and 100-percent synthetic woven fabrics. All
fabrics finished on the Turbang receive a very soft and pleasant natural feel.Aging effects can
also be achieved and pile fabrics such as velour and terry cloth achieve excellent volume and pile
orientation results. Pile fabrics that have eventually been distorted through prior processes can
be restored on the Turbang. Company officials mentioned that more than 500 machines are running
worldwide.Kusters, Germany (Zima Corporation, Spartanburg, S.C), has years of experience in the
development and production of singeing machines. Successfully installed in many countries, the
Kusters machine processes all types of fibers and fabrics. Kusters burners are 100-percent
stainless steel, water-cooled and equipped with ceramic flame-deflection blocks.A sequence of
alternating compression and expansion processes for the gas-to-air mixture ensures a homogenous
flame. This results in a uniform and reproducible singeing effect. The flame properties include a
high thermal and kinetic energy through which the steam/air cushion on the fabric is penetrated.
The short flame has a very brief contact with the fabric to prevent fiber damage. The high energy
produces a residue-free combustion, thus easily removing the protruding fibers and delivers a
uniform singeing. Because of the special burners, it is possible to singe nearly all fabrics. In
addition, fibers can be singed with only one burner per face and back, which saves energy at a
remarkably low gas consumption. The machine features three different singeing positions based on
the type of fabric being processed. For singeing on free-running fabric, the flame impinges on the
fabric at right angles, facilitating an intensive singeing effect. This position is especially
suitable for heavier weight natural and blended fabrics, as well as for high singeing speeds.For
singeing on water-cooled rolls, the flame impinges vertically on the fabric while the back of the
fabric is guided over water-cooled rolls, therefore avoiding an overheating of the fabric. The
burner is well-suited for polyester and blends as well as lightweight webs.For tangential singeing,
the flame impinges tangentially on the fabric, singeing off protruding fibers only, but does not
penetrate the fabric. This position is especially suitable for very lightweight and sensitive
fabrics.All processing parameters fabric speed, singeing intensity, singeing position, the
effective width of the flame, temperature of the cooled rollers and more can be pre-selected
through a PLC, so a uniform, reproducible singeing effect can be achieved at varying speeds. This
is especially important when the singer is part of a continuous finishing line.A great number of
production safety features are incorporated in the machine, such as where the burners automatically
swivel away from the fabric if the fabric speed falls below a pre-set value. In addition, the
company offers a lot of options such as brushing and beating rolls, vacuum slots, dry and wet
filters to remove impurities and impregnating saturators with squeezing units for desizing.Lafer
SpA, Italy (SGA, Charlotte, N.C.), is one of the leading suppliers of raising, shearing and sueding
machines. For its worldwide customers, Lafer offers a wide range of surface finishing solutions for
knitted and woven fabrics.Lafer pioneered the double-drum technology on the raising machine and was
one of the first suppliers to introduce automation on raising machines. The company based its GSMI
sueding machines on the multiple roll drum technology (24 or 48 rollers), compared to conventional
sueders that use only four to eight sueding rollers. The drum technology allows greater versatility
on light- to heavyweight fabrics with minimal loss of tensile strength.Streaking, which is a
critical problem on conventional sueders, has been solved by the combined action of the 24 sueding
rollers. The company emphasizes that the rotating drum will not cause any streaking and will
actually enhance sueding uniformity. Flexibility is a key factor of Lafers finishing machinery.
Lafer is introducing a new type of sueding machine that widens the range of sueding effects.The
Aquasand can be used to process fabric in wet or dry form. Dry sueding gives a soft handle and will
raise a certain pile surface (hairiness), whereas with wet sueding the water creates a lubricating
effect that gives a soft handle but without raising the pile. Subsequently, there will be a minimal
change of appearance, but the fabric softness will be remarkably enhanced.

Lafer’s Aquasand function principle of the sueding machineThe Aquasand is supplied with an
impregnation mangle at the entry and a squeezing mangle at exit, so that fabrics can be processed
wet or dry. Aquasand can process woven, knit and stretch fabrics made of natural, synthetic or
blended fibers.

Lafer also offers the K-Compactors. The demand for dimensionally stable cotton knit fabrics
in recent years has created an increase in investments in compressive shrinking machines, or
compacting calenders. Today, buyers expect dimensionally stable goods from all their suppliers.
Lafer has introduced a felt-compacting calender that was mainly designed for knitted fabrics in
open width, but it can also process tubular knit goods. The machine is available as an independent
unit (KSB), or complete with pin chain tenter inlet (KSA). Lafers goal was to design a machine with
low energy consumption and that runs faster than conventional felt compactors, while improving the
hand of the fabric. To achieve this, the Lafer felt-compacting calender model KS is equipped with
larger calendering rolls compared to other machines. The larger contact surface also processes
fabrics at a lower temperature and handles delicate fabrics while lowering running costs.The Lafer
compactors can be equipped with the patented Softplus system that maintains a bulkier fabric hand
and reduces the luster effect considerably on synthetic blends.Lindauer Dornier GmbH, Germany
(American Dornier, Charlotte, N.C.), offers several circular systems for wet and surface finishing.
Dorniers circular singeing machine type EcoSinge allows uniform singeing of tubular knit goods of
all diameters without stripes and without selvedge marks.The infinitely variable expansion of the
tubes on the circular expander allows an optimum ecological singeing of grey goods. The singeing
effect is maintained up to the final product. Also singeing of yarn-dyed articles assures
remarkable quality improvements. A calender drum behind the singeing section guarantees that every
spark which might remain on the fabric after singeing is extinguished. Tube diameters of 250 to
1,200 mm (9.8 inches to 47.2 inches) can be processed. The singeing speed is adjustable from 40 to
120 m/min. The machine is offered with a beating box, Lycra traction device, blow-off device and
wet filter for exhaust air cleaning. EcoFix is Dorniers new thermosetting range. The company claims
it is the first machine of its type on the world market capable of performing a heatsetting
operation on circular knits in tubular form. Dornier offers this solution to heatset synthetic and
elastic circular knits.The demand from retail customers is still growing for seamless leisurewear
and underwear that require improved rebound elasticity and exact fabric weights. Until now,
presetting of knitwear with elastic fiber content has been performed on stenter frames with the
fabric cut open. Apart from the process of sewing the seams, this procedure causes additional labor
and material costs because of fabric slitting, fabric loss due to selvedge glueing and cutting,
fabric doubling and sewing to avoid selvedges to curl during dyeing, fabric re-slitting and
following processes. With this solution, all of the common hosiery widths can be continuously
steam-relaxed, thermoset with hot air and then treated with cold air.The Dornier automatically
adjustable circular expander system ensures that the tubular fabric is held in its compressed
condition with maximum control during the EcoFix treatment. Opening the stitches of the circular
expander enables the hot airflow to pass uniformly around and through the tubular fabric. This
system sets new standards in the field of heatsetting with shape stability, stretchability based on
predefined elasticity, plus the required specific weight all ensured on a reproducible basis.m-tec
Maschinenbau GmbH, Germany (Zima Corporation), offers the pile shearing machine model SFS, System
Sistig. Years of experience and development has led to the new design and construction of the SFS,
resulting in an optimum combination of high efficiency, technical superiority and easy handling.
The machine can be used universally for natural, synthetic and blended fibers.The SFS was designed
for textile pile-type fabrics such as woven and knitted velours, raschel velours, needle felts and
flocked fabrics, going into many market segments such as upholstery, outerwear, home textiles,
technical fabrics, blankets, automotive, terry fabrics, etc. The machine features a large shear
cylinder of 210-mm diameter, which can be equipped with up to 28 spirals. It has a fine regulation
of fabric tension throughout the shearing zone, which is especially important for stretch-type
fabrics. The shear table is automatically lowered to allow seams to pass through without fabric
damage. During this passage, the position of the shear tool remains in place while the fabric
tension remains constant.The effective removal of shear lint by vacuum is ensured by the
high-quantity of exhaust air and optimized airflow. This allows for uniform cooling of the cutting
tool, and greatly increases the live time of the shearing tool.Another important factor of the
longevity of the shearing tool and for trouble-free shearing process is a cylinder lubrication
system. Instead of the manually operated lubrication, a special patented lubrication system is in
place which assures a uniform application of the lubricant. This is achieved through a traversing
applicator, which ensures automatic and continuous lubrication. The automatic lubrication system
can be adjusted to the shear width. The amount of lubricant and the lubricant time periods are both
program-controlled. This prevents excessive lubricant application when fabrics of different widths
are processed.The m-tec unit is equipped with a PLC; it controls parameters like fabric speed,
fabric tension, shear height, shearing gap, speed of shearing cylinder and more. The shear can also
be integrated with up to two tiger units, model System Sistig, to allow for raising of the fiber
prior to shearing. Other pile preparation equipment such as a pile polisher, cross brush, drum
raising unit, steaming device and/or electric radiators, are also manufactured and integrated into
the system by m-tec.Mario Crosta, Italy (PSP Marketing, Charlotte, N.C.), offers a wide variety of
surface finishing machinery, including: type MC universal and special raising and sueding machines;
type FKR and CHD two-drum raising machines; type SSC single-, twin- and three-cylinder shearing
machines, continuous lines for combined shearing and raising; type SD sueding machines; type Ctd
carpet-shearing machines; type GST napping and pile opening machines; type DSS discontinuous dry
decatizing machines; type RVT shrinking-steaming machines; and type SPV brushing machines.The
company claims that at ITMA 91, Germany, it was the first in this field to use inverter drives.
Today, all of its machinery uses 100-percent inverter drives.Mario Crosta claims to be the world
leader in its field with sales of 200 machines per year in various models and types. The highly
specialized technical staff is led by Emanuele Crosta, son of the founder, and pays great attention
to the technical needs of their customers.Prototypes of new machinery are thoroughly tested before
they are launched in new markets to ensure their reliability. This flexible approach to
technological problems has led to the development of state-of-the-art machinery. For example, the
first raising machine with full inverter controls was exhibited at ITMA 87 in Paris. The machine
was put on the market in 1988, only after passing extensive tests and trials. Since then, more than
900 machines in various models have been sold and supplied around the world.Monforts
Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany (American Monforts Corp., Charlotte, N.C.), offers the latest
generation of Toptex Sanforising units. These include a complete range of modular attachments for
the compressive shrinking devices, a new jet cooler (which extends the life of the rubber shrinking
belt) and improved PLC controls to ensure reproducible shrinking values.Toptex operates at speeds
of 20 to 30 m/min in single operation, and up to 65 m/min in tandem configuration. This is valid
for a wide range of knitted fabrics. It meets all international shrinking standards.Attachments for
the new Toptex range of compressive shrinking devices are now available as modular-designed units,
including the steaming drum, the heating drum and the felt calendar. The modular attachments can be
installed to existing or new Toptex machines without requiring additional floor space. A new jet
cooler also extends the life of the rubber compressive shrinking belt on narrow fabric runs when
the belt is not covered by fabric and runs against the heating drum.All Toptex units are now fitted
with an Auto Shrinking Control to provide reproducible shrinking values. The introduction of the
Qualitex PLC technology for shrinkage control was a major step forward in technology. Monforts
claims to be the leader under the suppliers of sanforising machines.Sperotto Rimar SpA, Italy
(Speizman Industries, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the Plurima wet-sueding machine. Compared to the
traditional dry-sueding technique, the wet-sueding distinguishes itself in achieving new and
different effects, such as surface softening without pile formation perceivable to the touch and
surface appearance similar to discoloration and/or aging typical of aged and/or worn fabrics. These
effects are now required by the market since they are meeting the current fashion trends.The water
presence in the Plurima wet-sueding machine carries out a fiber lubricating action on the fabric.
This allows more superficial abrading action, less fibrous material to be removed, a lower pile
raising and the development of short and thick pile.The fabric types that proved to be particularly
suitable for the wet-sueding processing are the woven fabrics, from the lightest poplin to the
heaviest cloth with drill weaving construction. In the cotton sector, the application is for
100-percent cotton and cotton/polyester, cotton/polyamide, cotton/viscose blends and denim fabrics.
In the synthetics fiber sector, typical applications are for 100-percent polyester, 100-percent
polyamide and their blends with viscose/rayon and 100-percent viscose/rayon. In the wool sector,
100-percent wool, wool/viscose/rayon blends and wool/silk blends are typical applications.Sperotto
Rimar also offers the Velura raising machine series, which was developed based on technical studies
and technological evaluations of factors and parameters that are crucial for carrying out raising
and napping treatments. The goal was to substantially improve the overall performance by
considering qualitative, productive and operative points of view.The Velura raising machines
feature automatic adjustment of the fabric tension at the inlet and the outlet side of the drum.
This allows a consequent productivity increase by more than 50 percent compared to conventional
machines. Further advantages are the full control of the selvedge tension, the automatic correction
of misalignment, automatic control of the brushing phase and the protection system for stooping the
machine if a seam should split.According to the company, the Velura machine technology can achieve
a better covering effect of the fabric surface, very low fiber removal from the fabric , negligible
reduction of the fabric width and weight, as well as even and reproducible raising
effects.Sucker-Muller-Hacoba, Germany (Hacoba Textile Machinery, Charlotte, N.C.), offers the
Multicut MC-5 shearing machine. It is a machine for surface treatment of a variety of fabrics, such
as velours, blankets, milled cloth and pile fabrics. In the Multicut MC-5, the arrangement of the
shearing spirals on the shearing cylinder has been changed when compared to conventional shearing
machines. The company claims that the patented shearing cylinder enables the user to step up
production by up to 100 percent, compared to conventional machines. The speed advantage depends on
the type of fabric, while at the same time, the undesirable moire effect in short-pile fabrics can
be avoided. This relates to velvets, cut- and woven piles, terry cloth, warp knit velours,
velveteen fabrics and others. The shearing spirals of the Multicut MC-5 have been arranged
asymmetrically on the shearing cylinder. This prevents periodic variations by interrupting the
uniform, constant cutting sequence. Peaks of periodic variations are no longer apparent in spite of
substantially higher fabric speeds.The MC-5 is a compact shearing machine that takes up little
space and has short fabric passages, which does away with the problem of edge curling in styles
where fabric tension is a critical factor. The machine can handle short- and long-pile fabrics and
can be used to establish a multi-purpose machine. It is available as a basic module just for
shearing, but a polishing module, bed-raising module, or pile-lifting module, including a cleaning
feature, can be added. The modules are interchangeable and can also be retrofitted at a later
time.The cloth-shearing machine is used as a stand-alone unit, which can also be complemented to
form a shearing line by connecting additional shearing modules.Finishing AccessoriesSimTek,
Greensboro, N.C., offers an important accessory for the finishing mills the patented Rabbit Runner.
This is a highly sensitive, quick-response data acquisition instrument that records the actual
measured temperature profile of a fabric or web as it moves through an oven. With it, the finisher
can accurately track and record the temperature of a fabric moving through an oven at 200+ ypm.The
Rabbit Runners components are rugged enough for use on the production floor. It is available with
an assortment of ultra-fast response J-type thermocouple temperature probes. Each probe and
locating jig is sized and configured for a particular fabric type, production speed range and
process application. The Rabbit Runner can be used to determine actual distances to dry and
subsequent fabric/web heat-up rates. It determines maximum fabric temperatures in oven locations,
dwell time above any user-defined critical temperature and fabric cooldown rate. It can also
identify side-center-side fabric temperature differences, assist in establishing production
settings to achieve a desired fabric thermal exposure and troubleshoot oven and process
issues.Typical applications where the Rabbit Runner has been used to document product thermal
exposures in various types of production ovens are sheeting, scrim, lace goods, flocked fabrics,
scrape-coated goods, carpet, upholstery fabrics, highly napped materials, air bag fabrics, apparel
fabrics, fiberglass, Lycra-based fabrics and industrial fabrics.The Rabbit Runner has been
successfully used in the industry since the 1980s in applications on tenter frames, relaxed dryers,
print ranges, curing ovens, carpet dryers, fiberglass ovens, multi-pass ovens, infrared units and
suction drum dryers.
May 2000

Solutia AddsConsumer-Oriented Section To WebsiteAtlanta-based Solutia, the company behind the Wear-Dated® upholstery fabric program, has expanded its website to include an enhanced customer-oriented section. Here, top designers reveal their thoughts on upcoming trends, tips on mixing patterns and textures, and what should be considered when decorating or redesigning a room. The first featured designer is Carole DArconte, president of The Color Portfolio.This section will not only include photographs of the featured designers work, but a “contact us” option as well, where visitors can submit comments and questions.Other highlights of the site include details on how to file a claim and a display of Wear-Dateds advertisements which have appeared in trade and consumer publications. Existing features, such as information about Wear-Dated warranties, cleaning recommendations and the companys retailer locator, have been repositioned and revamped to fit into the new consumer section.”The image of our enhanced consumer website complements the advertising campaign as well as our new logo and printed materials, which includes items such as brochures and hang tags. The site reflects the values and sentiments of todays busy lifestyles and provides consumers with the information on Wear-Dated products and services they want and need,” said Christine Whittemore, Acrilan business director for home furnishings.In the future, the company plans to add a section where salespeople can download retail-oriented information that can be inserted into binders and used as guides to improve upon key Wear-Dated selling points. A password-accessible newsroom will also be incorporated for media. May 2000

Teaming History With Technology
La France serves diverse market Mount Vernons La France plant has a rich history.
There has been a textile plant at this site since the late 1830s. The operation started out as
Pendleton Manufacturing Co. and has had several name changes over the years.We know that it is the
oldest textile mill in Anderson County, and weve been told that its the oldest in South Carolina,
said Nick Caldwell, president, La France Division.Benjamin F. Sloan, Thomas M. Sloan, John T. Sloan
and Enoch Berry Benson purchased the land that was to become the site of the La France plant in
1836.Operations began in February of 1838. Pendleton Manufacturing Co. actually issued its own
paper money in the 1860s signed by Benjamin F. Sloan. During the Civil War the company produced
blankets for the Confederate Army. In 1879, Augustus Sitton purchased the company and renamed the
community Autun, a combination of his name and his wifes Aull.The community and company were
renamed La France in the 1930s when La France Industries purchased the mill. La France Industries
transferred its upholstery manufacturing operation there 10 years after the purchase. In 1953, the
mill expanded into automotive upholstery.La France became part of the Mount Vernon family in 1985
when the company purchased Riegel Textile Corp.Visitors to todays La France see no evidence of this
longevity. The plant is a thoroughly modern 675,000-square-foot-facility. It employs almost 500
people, both salaried and hourly.If you make a profit in Mount Vernon, they will keep you
state-of-the-art, said Jackie Bridges, La France Griege Mill plant manager. This is probably the
most versatile, state-of-the-art plant of its type in the world. When Mount Vernon bought the plant
they completely modernized it.As an example, division managers point to a 1994-95 modernization
program in which Mount Vernon spent $42 million at La France. The money was mainly spent on new
equipment for weaving, slashing, finishing and package dyeing. 
Jackie
Bridges, general manager weaving Beginning With Yarn
The plant
does not have yarn production capability, and gets its yarn from other Mount Vernon operations and
outside vendors. In fact, La France has 41 yarn vendors. At one time, the plant had 3,200 yarn
SKUs. It trimmed that down to 600 SKUs.La Frances design staff works to keep yarn SKUs down by
using common warps and being selective about filling yarns.Production processes here include
package dyeing, weaving preparation, plush and flat weaving and finishing.La France services
several diverse market segments. Product type and customer divide these segments. On the plush
woven side the divisions markets include automotive upholstery (a joint venture with Chatham
Manufacturing), class A truck upholstery and paint roller fabrics.The flat woven side has several
categories and customers. The plant produces napery and baby blanket fabric for Mount Vernons
Consumer Products Division. It also makes specialty tapestry fabrics for several products including
pillows, table runners, wall hangings and throws. In addition, La France weaves commodity furniture
upholstery fabrics that are heat-transfer printed. The division also manufactures furniture
upholstery fabrics in partnership with several major players in that market segment.Each of these
segments has its own driving forces and histories. The plush products are strong year round. Paint
roller fabrics are in higher demand in the summer. The big truck portion of La Frances business had
a record year last year. The divisions flat tapestry fabrics are seasonal, and Christmas (March to
October) is the biggest season. In addition to all this, La France does some commission yarn
dyeing. Package Dyeing Through FinishingThe package dyeing area has Loris Bellini dye
machines. These include five production machines and one sample machine.In weaving preparation the
plant has a McCoy Ellison direct warper. There are two high-speed warpers. One is from McCoy
Ellison. The other is from Hacoba. There are two Ira Griffin dry beamers. A Benninger sectional
warper and a Hacoba-Sucker-Mueller slasher round out the department.The slasher is equipped with a
pre-dryer from Textile Technology Exchange. It has proven to be handy for selected styles. The
plant also uses McCoy Ellison warp creels.The flat jacquard area is equipped with Dornier rapier
and Picanol air-jet looms. Each machine has an Alexander Machinery off-loom take-up. Alexander
Machinery also planned the layout for both the flat and plush weave rooms. Sohler Airtex traveling
cleaners control lint in weaving.The plush weaving area has Gilbos and Murata winders for winding
and back winding. Michel Van de Wiele looms are used to produce these pile fabrics. The machines
are equipped with IRO weft feeders and Staubli jacquard and dobby heads. The plant has 60 dobby
plush machines and 26 jacquard plush machines. La France recently converted some of the plush
jacquard looms over to dobby heads to meet increased demand for dobby fabrics. The plant uses a
Barco monitoring system to track quality and production.In the finishing area, the plant has two
Marshall and Williams tenter frames. One is running inline with a Kusters piece dye range.
Slitting, shearing and inspection also take place here. The shearing machines are from
M-Tec. Painting A Perfect Product
La
France has been producing fabric for paint rollers for at least 35 years. Customer needs in this
product area have changed significantly over the years, and this serves as a great example of La
Frances innovative spirit.Making paint roller fabric is a multi-step process. First the plush
fabric is woven. Next it is brushed to remove lint. Then a latex backing is applied using a tenter
frame. Finally the fabric is slit into narrow strips and shipped to the customer.Over time some of
La Frances larger paint-roller fabric customers changed over to a process in which they switched
from a cardboard core to a phenolic core formed on the fly. This gave the product an improved wear
life. So La France worked to develop a fabric that would attach to a hot phenolic core.We put a
polyethylene filling yarn in the fabric which melts at a temperature near that of the phenolic core
and bonds to it, said Bernie Thompson, La France Finishing plant manager.We have three customers on
it right now, and they probably represent 75 percent of the paint rollers sold in this country.La
France also developed its own fabric slitting system for paint roller fabric production. About five
years ago La Frances plant engineer, Ted Hedden, designed a new system for guiding fabric into the
slitter.This innovation solved La Frances slitting problems and automated what had been basically a
hand operation. Alexander Machinery was brought onboard to build the machine. This slitting
operation is very precise. The goal is not to cross a warp end during the slitting process.We were
constantly bombarded with slit variation problems before we had this system in place, said
Thompson. We rarely have a problem now.The division also had a Canadian customer that was having
problems with the acrylic latex backing, so La France developed a neoprene backing for them.The
plant makes fabric for both industrial and consumer paint rollers. Some of the paint roller fabric
for consumer use is now being dyed pink to appeal to women buyers. It turns out that women buy most
of the paint rollers, just as they do for many other textile products.
May 2000

Alto
Yarn: Innovative Yarn Maker
Spinner specializes in slub yarns. Mount Vernons Alto, Ga., manufacturing complex
consists of two plants, the Alto fabric weaving plant and the Alto Yarn plant. The Alto plant was
built in 1967 as a supply-spinning mill for the La France Division. It was set up primarily for
ring-spun rayon yarns.Over the years it produced mostly rayon yarns. More recently cotton
processing was introduced. Today, the mill produces 100-percent cotton yarns, 100-percent rayon
yarns and plied combinations of cotton and rayon yarns.Mount Vernons involvement in slub yarn
manufacturing dates back nearly 40 years at plants in Maryland and Maine. The company was one of
the original producers of 19/1 rayon slub/nub yarn.This product remains an active style even in
todays market, but Mount Vernon no longer produces it. Mount Vernon maintained slub manufacturing
capacity as it moved south, adding slub equipment to ring spinning at the Columbia, S.C., operation
and ultimately at Tallassee, Ala.The Pamplins are very supportive owners, said Charles L. Little,
president of the Yarn Group (yarn sales division).Little became yarn merchandising manager in 1988
and took over yarn sales. In 1995, he was named president of the Yarn Division.We can feel the true
desire for growth and investment that the owners have in the business, he said.What counts for
Mount Vernon today is its commitment toward customers and the continuous investment in technology.
Investment in the Mount Vernon Mills family is often an expansion or modernization valued in the
tens of millions. 
Charlie Reed,
Quality Assurance, Alto Yarn, uses a digitalcamera to provide vendors with information on equipment
problems. The Alto OperationToday, the Mount Vernon Alto Yarn plant is a typical sales-yarn
plant, as a supplier to many more customers than just itself. Mount Vernon sells yarns out of the
Alto and Tallassee plants.The Tallassee plant historically made slub yarns. In the early 90s, ring
spinning was removed from Tallassee, with Alto adding new slub attachments to its ring spinning.One
of the major modernization programs was started in 1990 with all new Murata winding and
Saurer-Allma twisting.By 1993, the plant expanded again, nearly doubling its original output. This
included replacing all cards with Trutzschler DK series cards, electronically controlled Rieter RSB
851 drawframes and Schlafhorst SE9 rotor-spinning frames.The next, and most significant step, as
Little sees it, was to replace older ring-spinning frames with modern, automated ring-spinning
systems.This includes linking Marzoli roving frames, Suessen Fiomax 1000 ring-spinning frames, and
automated Murata Link Coner winding.The integration of the Amsler slubbing device gives the company
the extra edge to produce, at will, effect yarns for customers. Electro-Jet did the automation for
linking Marzolis roving frames with Suessens spinning frames, while Luwa-Bahnson provided a modern
air-handling system.In May 1999, the company purchased six Rieter D10 draw frames, and in January
2000 two Saurer 8-inch traverse twisters were added.Currently underway is a plan to change the
roving flyer from 16 by 6 inches to 16 by 7 inches. This is done to allow the plant to get a bigger
roving bobbin weight.Plant Manager Mike Godfrey had only praise for all of the companys suppliers,
though they admit that things were not always easy at start-up. Some of the installed technology
was new to the United States, and that is always a challenge for the mill and the supplier.
However, the result appears to be performing well.According to Charlie Reed, who is responsible for
the quality assurance in this plant, the effect-yarn capability on the ring-spinning frames has not
been developed to its full potential.  A Look At EquipmentAlto Yarn uses premium cotton for
open-end and ring-spun yarns. The Trutzschler equipment that we have in place contributes nicely to
the product we manufacture, Little said.One Marzoli roving frame is designated for rayon and four
frames are selected for cotton production. Electro-Jet provided the automated linking system, which
connects the five roving frames with the 14 Suessen spinning frames.Its a very versatile system,
Godfrey said of Electro-Jets installation. You insert the creel fully into the spinning frame, and
then the empty bobbin is processed through the bobbin stripper and then back to storage. Its also a
simple system and very dependable.The Alto facility was Electro-Jets first automated transport
system in the United States. The advantage of this system is the battery-operated Auto-Motor
monorail setup, which allows for high efficiency without the need for a complex infrastructure of
pneumatic lines and extensive wiring. All functions are controlled by a host computer, and the
battery-operated unit controls position constantly using on-line sensors. The system maintains full
control over handling two different raw materials rayon and cotton.From Marzolis roving frames, the
Electro-Jet system allows transport and direct insertion into the creel of the ring-spinning
frames. Suessens Fiomax 1000 ring-spinning frame is equipped with the CutCat Whorl Cleaner,
automated doffing and an interface for linking each of the 1,008 spindle frames to the Murata
winders.Amsler supplied the electro-mechanical device for slub formation, the central control unit
and the slub programming unit on the ring-spinning frame. The Amsler slubbing device allowed for
the development of new products and the innovation continues. Even rayon was moved into the slub
arena to expand the product line.We purchased the Amsler equipment because it was proven equipment
for very long link-spinning, Little said. We have had great success with the former Murata winders,
and we chose Murata winding once again.There are 32 position winders for clip-cone and conical
winding, plus dye-tubes are run on these winders as well. As one of the final stages in the plant,
Xorella Yarn Conditioners were added as the final refinement stage for cotton yarns. Conditioning
for cotton is automatic. Weaving customers have recognized the benefit conditioning imparts.Quality
is assured in several stages of the production process. Zellweger Uster has provided instruments
and equipment for quality control. In the textile lab, AFIS is used to analyze fiber materials;
Usters UT series evenness testers are used for sliver and yarn testing; and a Classimat and
single-end tester provide all necessary yarn quality data. According to the company, an investment
in the new Tensorapid will take place within the next few months.On the production floor,
Zellwegers Polyguard yarn clearers are installed on Schlafhorsts open-end spinning frames, while
P551 yarn clearers perform their tasks on the Murata winders. Zellwegers P830 serves as a
monitoring system.Little emphasized the effectiveness of the Luwa-Bahnson air conditioning system,
which was put in place while installing the new frames in the ring-spinning area. The challenge was
to keep the mill operational while the new spinning frames and return-duct system were
installed.Little and Godfrey compared this system to three other manufacturers systems throughout
the plant, and they say Luwa-Bahnsons system does an outstanding job. Luwa installed rotary
prefilters and rotating screens, based on the principle of a two-stage filtration system. It is
more efficient to separately capture coarse waste in the first stage, such as thread pieces, and
fine dust in the second stage.The prefilters function on a higher air velocity than the second
stage dust filter. All waste is automatically doffed by a waste collection system.Lint, in this
kind of operation, is a major factor to figure into the air filtration system. A deviation diffuser
permits distribution of the air at a very slow velocity. The plant also received new air washers,
and a high air exchange rate was selected because of coarse count yarns.  Specialty YarnsYarn
plant has a diversified product line, yet the philosophy is to keep the variety of products simple
enough to stay cost effective. Cotton and rayon yarns, open-end and ring-spun yarns, singles and
ply yarns, as well as straight and slub yarns are produced.Historically, Mount Vernon has always
been involved in the upholstery and home furnishing fabric trade, which is still very much a
concentration of Altos sales-yarn effort. Currently, all of the rayon production is sold to other
manufacturers. None is used within Mount Vernon.Many varieties of yarn packages are offered to
clients, exactly as the customer requires them. Alto itself has no yarn-dyeing operation, but
supplies a vast variety of different yarn package setups to its clients. Little mentioned that
there are numerous shapes and sizes of dye packages, and each dye package customer has its unique
setup and specifications. To date, the primary focus has been on coarse-count yarns, but product
developments point toward an expanded cotton count range, plus rayon slub yarns. To take full
advantage of the equipment, Mount Vernon has retained the services of Per Olsson of Sweden to
assist in developing its home furnishing product offerings.Little envisions that more and more of
the plants production will become value-added slub products. The Amsler system adds character to
yarns in a controllable manner with repeatable physical yarn characteristics. Denim, for example,
is a major segment for Altos slub yarns. Engineered slubs give denim the character of old,
traditional denim when woven into fabric.Some of our customers have 100-percent warp slub yarns and
100-percent filling slub yarns in the fabric, Little said. And you often will find customers that
will do one end of slub cotton and one end of smooth yarn alternating in the warp direction. In
filling, customers may use an end of slub yarn among several yarns selected or use 100-percent
slub.The companys philosophy is to work closely with customers and to reply to customer requests in
the shortest possible time. For example, Little mentioned that a customer called in an order for
12/2 yarns, which is not a standard item in Altos manufacturing program. By the next morning, the
yarn was in production.This is the response time our customers are looking for, and this is what we
deliver, he said.The plant is trying to offer value-added products as close as possible to
commodity yarn prices, according to Godfrey. Mount Vernon is committed to meeting large- or
small-quantity orders, and everything is treated with the same priority. Yarn-count changes are
commonplace, however, only a small percentage of equipment is subject to these changes.Our goal is
to have the best slub yarns on the market, Little said. He sees the success of Mount Vernons Alto
plant as the result of modern equipment and the training of plant personnel.
May 2000

Beyond 2000: Weaving PrepBy Dr. Sabit Adanur Weaving Speeds Up
From winding to automatic drawing-in, weaving preparation is becoming even more critical.

With ever-increasing weaving speeds, the requirements on weaving preparation are also getting
more stringent. The filling yarns are not subjected to the same type of stresses as are the warp
yarns and thus are easily prepared for the weaving process. Depending on the spinning method, the
filling yarns may not be prepared at all, but rather taken straight off the spinning process and
transported to the weaving process. Winding is the major preparation process for filling yarn. Warp
preparation includes winding, warping, slashing and drawing-in or tying-in.The cost to repair a
yarn failure is much less if it occurs prior to the weaving process. In addition, a yarn failure
during weaving also increases the chances for off-quality fabric. Many if not most of the quality
problems encountered during fabric forming are directly related to mistakes made during yarn
manufacturing or yarn preparation for weaving. These facts show the importance of weaving
preparation. Winding Winding produces a yarn package that is suitable for further processing. The
amount of yarn on several small spinners packages are combined by splicing or knotting onto a
single package. Knotting has been replaced by splicing in modern winding machines. The winding
process provides an opportunity to clear yarn defects. Thin and thick places, slubs, neps or loose
fibers on the yarn are cleared during winding and thus the overall quality of the yarn is
improved.The increasing use of newer spinning technologies resulted in a situation where the old
concept of yarn clearing and package quality now has become a part of the spinning process rather
than part of a separate winding process. Properly formed packages of defect-free spun yarn are an
even more critical factor. Package considerations include condition of the package core, the proper
provision of yarn transfer tails, properly formed splices or knots, elimination of internal defects
such as slubs, sloughs, tangles, wild yarn, scuffs and ribbon wind, elimination of external defects
such as over-end winding, cob webs, abrasion scuffs, poor package shape or build, proper density
(hardness) and unwindability.The clearers of todays technology are more sophisticated and contain
electronics that continuously monitor the yarn to detect thin and thick places. The latest yarn
clearing systems can also detect foreign fibers. Then these fibers are classified and eliminated
during the winding process. As a result, the quality of the yarn can be improved during the winding
process. Todays winding machines allow use of different size bobbins with different flange
diameters, overall lengths and winding widths on the same machine. For winding of industrial yarns
such as aramid, carbon or glass yarns and monofilaments, specially designed yarn guide elements are
used. A spindle speed of 5,000 rpm is possible.In precision winding, the position of the yarn as it
is laid on the package is controlled very precisely to increase the density of the package. With
the electronic system, freely programmable package build is possible.WarpingThe preparation of warp
yarn is more demanding and complicated than that of the filling yarn. Modern weaving machines have
placed increased demands on warp preparation due to faster weaving speeds and the use of insertion
devices other than the shuttle. Warp yarn must have uniform properties with sufficient strength to
withstand stress and frictional abrasion during weaving. The number of knots should be kept to a
minimum. The knots should be standard type and size so they fit through the heddle eyes and reed
dents. Size agent must be applied uniformly on the surface of the yarn. The yarns on the warp sheet
must be parallel to each other with equal tension.Todays warping machines can process all kinds of
materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilaments, textured and smooth
yarns, silk and other synthetic yarns such as glass. Usually a static eliminator device is
recommended for yarns that can generate static electricity. With todays computerized sectional
warping systems, once the basic style information is entered, the computer automatically calculates
the number of sections on the beam and width of each section, carrier lateral movement speed and
automatic positioning of each section start point, automatic stops for leasing and calculation of
the correct feed speed irrespective of the material and warp density.The computer can also monitor
the automatic stops for predetermined length, operating speed regulation of +/- 0.5 percent between
warping and beaming, beaming traverse motion and memory of yarn breakage during warping for
beaming.Other typical features of a modern sectional warper are:

• feeler roller to apply material specific pressure to obtain exactcylindrical warp
  build-up;
• lease and sizing band magazines
• constant warp tension over the full warp width;
• automatic section positioning with photo-optical section width measurement;
• pneumatic stop brakes;
• warp tension regulation for uniform build-up; and
• automatic warp beam loading, doffing and chucking.Todays headstocks are equipped with advanced
  design features such as precision direct drive, advanced electronics, smooth doffing and
  programmable breaking. Automatic hydraulic doffing is accomplished with the operation of one
  button. Programmable pneumatic braking provides a constant stopping distance regardless of the
  operating speed or beam diameter. The length of the yarn wound on the beam is controlled with a
  measuring roller and counter device. The density of the yarn can be controlled by tension, pressure
  or both. Frictional drive usually results in higher yarn density. In spindle drive, yarn tension
  and a hydraulically activated pressure roller are used to control density. Some headstocks are
  designed to run more than one beam width. Manual cutting and knotting takes an average of 8
  seconds. For a 640-package creel, it takes 85 minutes for one person to complete the whole creel.
  In modern machines, yarn cutting and knotting are done automatically. In an eight-tier creel,
  automatic knotting and cutting device requires an average 2 seconds per package which totals 21
  minutes for the whole creel. The automatic knotting and cutting devices are mounted on rails that
  are integrated in the creel. There are as many cutting heads as there are tiers. The devices are
  controlled by a PLC (programmable logical controller). Each package row is approached exactly at
  traverse/creep speed by means of two proximity initiators. The oscillating suction and gripping
  tubes offer the yarn ends to the knotting heads, where they are knotted and trimmed. The tails are
  removed by suction. The current trend in weaving is towards larger warp beam diameters. Today,
  weaving beams of 1,600 mm diameter are possible. SlashingThe ultimate goal of sizing is to
  eliminate or reduce warp breaks during weaving. Warp breaks are caused either by high tension or by
  low strength in the yarn. High tensions in the warp are caused by large shed openings, lack of
  proper tension compensation, high beat-up force and inadequate let-off. Knots, yarn entanglement
  and high friction also cause tension build-up. Slasher creel tension control is critical especially
  with Murata jet-spun (MJS) and open-end yarns. Maximum tension should not exceed 5 percent of
  breaking strength (15 to 20 grams (g) for ring-spun yarns and 12 to 15 g for open-end, MJS and MVS
  yarns). With coarse yarns, sometimes 30 g is allowable. The amount of size picked up is affected by
  the viscosity of the size mix as well as the yarn structure. The viscosity of the mix is controlled
  by the recipe, amount of solid content in the size liquor and the type of sizing product,
  mechanical mixing level, temperature and time of boiling. Flat filaments, textured and spun yarns
  pick-up size differently. The critical parameters to watch in the sizing process are size
  homogeneity, constant speed of the sizing machine, constant size concentrations and viscosity.
  Flooding or dry zones should be prevented in the size box. Temperature of the size box is important
  for proper size pick-up. For 100-percent polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) sizing, a temperature of 160° to
  170°F is recommended.Todays modern sizing machines dynamically adjust the degree of sizing. Expert
  software packages calculate sizing values on-line as a function of the warp weight. Size
  application measuring and control systems are used to measure and calculate sizing parameters
  automatically instead of time-consuming laboratory test procedures. Based on the calculated
  parameters, the squeezing pressure at creep and normal speed is controlled via computer. A
  byrometer measures the density of the mix and controls the supply rate of the ingredients. The
  purpose is to keep the warp sizing degree constant.High-speed weaving machines require minimum
  hairiness in warp yarns. During slashing, yarn hairiness is affected mainly by the spacing between
  adjacent yarn ends in the size box and the slasher dryer configuration. In practice, the size box
  occupation may be used to determine yarn spacing. The Teflon® coating on all of the dryer cans
  should be in good shape to prevent dry can sticking (also called shedding) which may be a problem.
  Since open-end and MJS yarns have high wet pick-ups, the slasher may have to be slowed down to
  eliminate dry can sticking. Selection of a sizing machine depends on several factors including warp
  specifications, weaving requirements and production volume. The output of the sizing machine is
  determined by the size of the dryer.In so-called “walk-through head-end” beam winder, the beam
  support/drive unit is independent of the delivery/comb unit. There is a “walk-through” platform in
  between, which allows better access to the comb, delivery roll and beam. Automatic hydraulic beam
  loading and unloading, independent hydraulically lifted delivery nip rolls, pneumatically operated
  expansion, contracting and shifting of the comb are some of the other features of this new system.
  This concept was developed for large warp beams. The quality of woven fabrics depends to a great
  extent on the quality of warp preparation. Therefore, sizing machines are usually incorporated in
  weaving room control and monitoring systems as shown in Figure 1. For trouble-free weaving, a
  well-slashed warp is a must. Poor slashing may increase loom stops, which in return increases the
  cost of weaving.
  

  Chemistry For SizingWith all the ingredients available, a size mix can get quite complex.
  Several factors should be considered when choosing the size mixture:

  • yarn material (cotton, poly/cotton, polyester, rayon, wool, etc.);
  • yarn hairiness;
  • yarn structure (ring-spun, open-end, jet-spun);
  • water used for cooking (recycled or fresh);
  • type and speed of weaving machines to be used (projectile, rapier, airjet, waterjet);
  • percent add-on (and percent solids) required;
  • yarn occupation in the size box and on the dry cans;
  • desizing procedures;
  • reclamation of size and use of enzymes in the finishing plant;
  • slasher design and number of size boxes; and
  • environmental restrictions.
  • The type
    of weaving machine should also be considered for choosing the sizing material. Since sizing is not
    a value-added process, minimizing the cost of sizing is extremely important. However, this should
    not be done by using cheap size materials at the expense of productivity and performance in the
    weave room. The ultimate goal is to optimize weaving performance with the cost of sizing. Cold
    Sizing In this process, the warp surface is treated gently without squeezing. It is claimed that in
    comparison to waxing on the sectional warper, cold sizing produces better yarn compaction, smoother
    surface and less hairiness, which improves the weaving efficiency. Cold size products from the
    suppliers can be used for cold sizing of single yarn, siro yarns and two-ply yarns of wool and
    blends, terry warps and synthetic yarns. The chemical products used are water soluble, recyclable
    and biologically degradable. The main advantages of this system have been reported to be less
    liquor pick-up and high liquor concentration, 30 to 50 percent less application compared to normal
    sizing, savings in energy in drying, less machine space and higher modularity and
    productivity.Prewet Sizing TechnologyIn another recent development, called prewet sizing
    technology, the yarns are wetted and washed with hot water prior to entering the size box. It is
    claimed that by doing this, the size add-on can be reduced by 20 to 40 percent, size adhesion is
    improved, abrasion resistance is increased and hairiness is reduced. Figure 2 shows the schematic
    of the pre-wetting process. The improvement in weaving performance is attributed to better
    encapsulation of the yarn by the sizing agent and better adhesion of the sizing agent to the yarn.
    The advantages of this system are an increase in tensile strength and abrasion resistance,
    reduction in hairiness, clinging tendency reduction and reduction in lint formation during
    weaving.Drawing-in and Tying-inToday, the drawing-in and tying-in processes are fully automated.
    Drawing-in is done using robot-like machines. A special type of heddle is needed for automated
    drawing-in. The warp ends, taken from the warp sheet, are fed individually to the drawing-in
    element. Heddles are separated from the stack and brought to the drawing-in position. A plastic
    knife opens a gap in the reed, and a hook draws-in the warp end through the heddle and reed in one
    step.Automatic drawing-in increases speed, flexibility and quality in weaving preparation compared
    to manual drawing-in. A drawing rate of 50,000 warp ends per 8 hours (200 ends per minute) is
    possible.A small portable robot is used on or off the weaving machine for tying-in. A typical
    warp-tying machine can knot single or ply yarns from 1.7 to 80 Ne (340-7 tex). They can knot
    cotton, wool, synthetic and blend warp yarns. Yarns of different thicknesses can be knotted.
    Typical knotting speed of a knotter is from 60 to 600 knots per minute. With continuous filaments
    and bulky yarns, a non-slip double knot is recommended which can be handled by knotting machines.
    Some automatic tying machines can knot extremely short tails of yarns, 5 mm. Tape yarns and
    monofilaments require a slightly different tying machine. Tape yarns of up to 8-mm width can be
    tied. The knotting speed is typically 60 to 450 knots per minute. The number of warp ends to be
    tied together can be preprogrammed; once this number is reached, the knotter stops automatically.
    Dual knotting system is used on a double-beam weaving machine. The knotters work from left to right
    and from right to left simultaneously. Several points should be considered during drawing-in and
    tying-in. Improper splicing and/or knotting can become critical to good weaving performance. The
    straightness of individual warp yarns and their freedom to act independently as they pass through a
    weaving machine is important to good weaving performance. Yarns that are crossed and tangled can
    not proceed without excessive stress and yarns that are restricted or influenced by drop-wire
    activity, heddle spacing, harness interference or reed spacing will not weave at top
    performance. 
    Editors Note: Dr. Sabit Adanur is an Alumni Professor for Auburn Universitys Department of
    Textile Engineering. He has written for a number of publications and is the author of the
    Wellington Sears Handbook of Industrial Textiles.
    May 2000

Mount Vernon
Mills Cuero, Texas, plant part of the companys Brentex Division recently celebrated 99 years of
producing textiles in southeastern Texas. The plant, whose product line includes 100-percent drill
fabric, fabric for boat covers and 65-percent/35-percent cotton greige goods for apparel, recently
completed an expansion and renovation project that has taken place over the past two years. For
Mount Vernon, the road the Cuero plant took to reach its current status as one of the most modern
plants in the textile industry wasnt nearly as smooth as it had expected.After acquiring the Cuero
facility, along with the Brenham, Texas, plant in 1992, Mount Vernon decided, in 1996, to expand
its Cuero location by building a new warehouse and manufacturing location to adjoin its existing
manufacturing facility. The ground breaking took place in July 1998. Three months later, what
happened within about a five-hour time period caused Mount Vernon to drastically alter its initial
plan. The plant, the town and much of south central Texas were decimated by a natural disaster that
many people in the area call the 500-year flood.  The Water’s WrathThe decimation began with a
weather system that dumped approximately 22 inches of rain in the area around San Antonio, Texas,
about 80 miles northwest of Cuero, and produced about six inches of rain in Cuero itself. Cuero was
given notice that the nearby Guadalupe River would crest in two days at 50 feet, more than six
inches higher than any other time on record. However, those predictions proved to be wrong. The
river did crest at 50 feet, but only hours after notice had been given.When the floodwaters
crested, the Cuero plant, like most of the town, was under water. An estimated 9.7 million gallons
of water filled the existing portion of the plant and the section under construction within about
two hours. Almost four feet of water filled the plant, leaving a months worth of clean up in its
wake. The water and silt damaged or destroyed many of the machines in the plant and buckled the
wood floor. All of the companys inventory was lost, as was the yarn, sliver and fabric that was in
production.As devastating as the flood was for Mount Vernon, the community of 7,000 fared far
worse. While there were no fatalities from the flood a situation that would have undoubtedly been
much different had the floodwaters risen at night the damage was severe.Robert D. (Bobby) Heyer,
plant manager, Cuero, was one of the many people key in the evacuation process, as he rescued
people from their homes via helicopter. Others in the tight-knit community used their boats to
evacuate people trapped in or on their homes.Its hard to believe that water will rise five feet an
hour, Heyer said. Its like backing your truck down a boat ramp to put your boat in the water and to
come back half an hour later to find that your truck is under water.There was catastrophic damage
throughout the town. Approximately one-third of the homes in Cuero (800 homes) were destroyed. More
than 100 of those homes vanished without a trace. Many homes suffered a varied amount of damage, as
only the downtown area of the city was spared the water’s wrath. Starting OverThe waters
receded within a week, and the overwhelming clean-up process began almost immediately. The flood
had destroyed more than homes. Livestock was lost from nearby ranches, and the fear of water
contamination was a major concern as streaks of chemicals could be seen in the floodwater. For
those whose homes had been destroyed or damaged, there was little initial relief. Many of the
affected victims moved in with family or friends, some lived out of their cars, and some left the
town altogether.According to Heyer, only one Mount Vernon employee was among those who left. For
those employees who did stay, Mount Vernon immediately granted financial assistance.The Pamplin
family, owners of Mount Vernon Mills, provided greatly needed assistance to those devastated by the
flood by giving $2,500 to each of the affected families. The company also gathered clothing,
bedding and other non-perishable goods at its plants across the nation and sent truckloads of items
to the flood victims. So many items were donated by company employees that excess goods were given
to the Red Cross and other relief organizations for other flood victims. Cueros customers also sent
first-quality clothing to the towns victims. Luck In TimingAs the town began its recovery
efforts, Mount Vernon began its own clean-up and rebuilding efforts. The Cuero plant was actually
quite lucky. Much of the machinery that was to be installed as part of the initial expansion and
renovation project was ordered but it had not arrived prior to the flood.Said Kent Snow, president,
Brentex Division: We really werent planning on buying 10 more cards, but the flood basically
decided that for us. The timing, as bad as it was, was very fortunate from the standpoint of how
far along the project was. We had cards coming in for the expansion that we put into production so
we could run until we could get the new ones in. Within 45 days of the flood, the plant was up and
running, although it took some innovative techniques to get there. One of the biggest achievements
of the restart was the pouring of the concrete floor in the spinning area while the spinning frames
continued to run.  
Kent Snow,
president, Brentex Division,checks out the new weave room at Cuero. Extreme Innovation
As a result
of the massive amount of water and silt, the wood flooring had buckled, causing many problems
throughout the plant, including the inability of cans to be used effectively.The buckled flooring
was to be removed and replaced with a concrete floor. However, if the spinning frames were to be
removed from the area while this was done, at least a month in production time would be lost. The
need to maintain production was made that more pressing because one of Mount Vernons largest
customers was in immediate need of the 100-percent drill fabric produced at the plant.Plans were
immediately devised to rebuild the flooring with as little downtime as possible. The existing
flooring in the spinning room had a three-foot crawl space that would provide the space necessary
to pour the structural support for the new floor. It was decided that the 12 Schlafhorst SE9
spinning frames would be kept in place and running while the new floor was being constructed.The
spinning frames were jacked-up and stabilized with large dowel rods, while the old flooring was
removed and the new flooring was installed. A temporary plywood floor was built and lightweight
concrete was poured through holes cut in the plywood for structural support. After the support
beams were in place, the rest of the concrete floor was poured.  Making It Modern
Even before
the flood, a great deal of forethought was put into the project. As with Mount Vernon in general,
the focus of the renovation was on how to improve its product for its customers.A large part of the
Cuero expansion was oriented toward the customers in terms of defects levels, Snow said.Heyer
continued: We only have approximately 20 machines that were in here before the flood. There were
the 12 Schlafhorst spinning frames, two Rieter Uniflocs, two Unimixes and two A80s.The plant itself
was built to be both flexible and customer oriented, as shown by its ability to run 2.25- to
1.2-denier polyester. Cuero uses Rieter exclusively in its opening, cleaning, blending, carding and
drawing operations. The plant was the second operation in the United States to have the Rieter A80
blending line installed when it was brought to market, and its carding process uses the C51 Rieter
card, which can operate at a rate of 200 pounds per hour. The Rieter system has given the company
great flexibility, especially in opening.Along with the 12 Schlafhorst spinning frames, the company
also has nine Rieter R20 spinning frames with foreign fiber detectors. The foreign fiber detection
was purchased primarily because one of the companys major customers wanted to reduce the number of
seconds it was producing. The Cuero facility is also currently the only operation in the world to
use the Barco clearer on the R20s.This is the first Barco installation on the R20 spinning frames,
said Heyer. This is unique, no one else has done it.Mount Vernon also purchased two WestPoint
Foundry and Machine Co. warpers and slashers. An automated kitchen for slashing, which will
eliminate the manual handling and mixing of chemicals, has also been added.The new weave room has
145 Sulzer Textil L5200 and L5300 air-jet looms running at upwards of 870 picks per minute. Of
those looms, 45 have a width of 210 cm, allowing customer fabric use to be optimized. Because of
space limitations, the company decided to build its weaving operation with two levels, with the
looms on the top floor, and with the Alexander Machine take-up machines in the lower area. By using
this arrangement, the company has been able to optimize its weaving operation as seen by a
150-percent increase in production.Snow and Heyer agreed that the new Williamson wrapper that was
recently installed has been a hit both with the company and its customers. The wrapper is located
on the lower level of the newly built weave room along with the take-up operation. It is designed
so that the rolls of fabric can be moved from take-up to a conveyor, and then moved to and wrapped
by the wrapper. After the roll has been wrapped and labeled, it is moved via conveyor to the upper
level where the warehouse is located.This process has eliminated most of the manual handling and,
according to company estimates, saves approximately 120 cm of fabric per roll from damage.The
companys warehouse, which was initially used to store new machinery while the renovation was
underway, is designed to hold two weeks of inventory but has the flexibility to hold more if
necessary. Staying Power
While life in
the town of Cuero has yet to return to the way it was before October 1998, it is slowly getting
back to normal. Thanks in large part to Mount Vernons commitment to its employees, customers and
the town, the transition to life after the flood has moved on as smoothly as possible. Today, there
are still many residents living in government-supplied housing while more permanent homes are
built.For Mount Vernon, the rebuilding process has been completed at the plant as well. The
expanded and renovated plant is now able to produce approximately 750,000 yards of fabric per week
up from 300,000 yards per week before the renovation.The renovation of the Cuero plant was truly
unique. This is the first time a plant has been rebuilt from the ground up in this company, said
Snow. The closest thing was the Alto, Ga., facility in 1966 but that was a new construction. This
plant was totally rebuilt piece by piece with several areas running while another area was being
renovated.In the conference room is a prime example of Mount Vernons resourcefulness and
innovation: the conference table. The table was made from the useable portion of the wood salvaged
from the wood beams that were damaged in the flood. This unique table will not only provide
functionality for years to come, but also serve as a centerpiece of the Cuero legacy.

May 2000