Celanese Acetate Opens New Fabric Library

New York City-based Celanese Acetate has opened the Celanese Acetate Global Fabric Studios in the
California Apparel Mart, Los Angeles. The new fabric library features swatches of womens- and
menswear fabrics containing Celanese Acetate from approximately 75 converters and knitters.The
collection includes a wide variety of textures and types of Celanese Acetate fabrics and highlights
possible uses of the fiber. The fabrics are grouped according to geographic regions of origin.
There is a separate category for linings fabrics. The fabric swatches will be updated every Spring
and Fall.The Global Fabric Studios are open by appointment to retailers, manufacturers and the
press.

July 2001

Crystal Textile Group Launches Line Of Spacer Fabrics

NEW YORK, July 16 /PRNewswire/ — The Crystal Textile Group (formerly ‘TheTricot Man’) has launched
a new line of spacer fabrics under the Spacer-Lite name for a wide variety of apparel, medical,
industrial and technical end-uses. Spacer fabrics are made up of two outer textile substrates,
which are joined together and kept apart by an insert of spacer yams. This design creates a
ventilated layer of air, allowing heat and moisture to escape. The basic substrates, while limited,
can be developed in various novelties. “Spacer-Lite is far softer than laminated fabrics used for
the same purposes and retains its qualities after repeated launderings,” said Richard Crystal, CEO
of the vertically integrated, New York-based knit and fabric company. “By virtue of such qualities,
this extremely versatile fabric is perfectly suited for such end uses as lingerie, bras, swimwear
and active wear.” Spacer-Lite also offers anti-microbial, anti-mildew, anti-static, flame
retardant, absorptive, water repellent and abrasion resistance properties– making it ideal for an
array of medical, industrial and technical applications. “As a completely vertical organization, we
have the ability to offer Spacer-Lite fabrics in a host of finishes and yarn combinations,” Mr.
Crystal added. For further information about the new Spacer-Lite fabrics, contact Richard Crystal,
Crystal Textile Group, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, or(212) 575-5585. About Crystal Textile
Group Located in the heart of the fashion textile industry in New York City,Crystal Textile Group
is a leader among only a handful of vertically integrated knit and fabric companies. The
family-owned business was founded in 1973. Today, Crystal and its associated, family-owned North
Carolina-based companies — Warp Knit Mills and Crystal Dyeing and Finishing — service abroad
range of fashion and high-tech fabrics trades and provide full research and development
capabilities. The companies offer complete product development services for a full line of warp
knits of every description,supplying many brand name companies in the apparel and activewear
fabrictrades. Outside those traditional areas, the companies develop fabrics for medical, high-tech
and other highly specialized industrial applications.SOURCE Crystal Textile GroupWeb Site:
http://www.CrystalTextiles.comCopyright 2001 PR Newswire

World Textile Machinery Market Shows Signs Of Recovery

A report released by the Switzerland-based International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)
reveals increased investment activity worldwide for textile machinery in 2000 over 1999. Spinning
and texturing machinery showed the strongest recovery among the five primary types of machinery
covered in the report. Also included are weaving, large circular knitting and flat knitting
machines.Some 120 textile machinery manufacturers participated in the survey, including 25
additional mainland Chinese companies, whose inclusion made the report more comprehensive than
reports from previous years. Total shipments of spinning machinery included 3.94 million
short-staple spindles, 355,000 long-staple spindles and 207,000 open-end rotors. In the category of
texturing machinery, 95 percent of the 138,000 false-twist spindles that were shipped were double
heater spindles. Weaving machinery shipments totalled 60,000 shuttleless looms and 16,800 shuttle
looms. Shipments of 12,900 large circular knitting machines were recorded in 2000. Flat knitting
machinery statistics, newly recorded for 2000, show that 8,600 electronic flat knitting machines
and 64,400 semi-automatic and hand-knitting machines were shipped during the year.The report also
contains year 2000 figures that do not include data from the additional Chinese companies, so that
a direct comparison can be made to 1999 figures. Shipment increases of 50 percent were reported for
short-staple spindles, 43 percent for long-staple spindles and 50 percent for open-end rotors. The
report showed increases of 17 percent for shipments of rapier/projectile looms, 58 percent for
air-jet looms and 38 percent for water-jet looms. The total increase in weaving machinery shipments
is 35 percent. Shipments of shuttle looms in 2000 were down 1.8 percent over 1999 numbers. Double
heater spindle shipments increased by 46 percent; however, single heater draw texturing spindle
shipments decreased by 32 percent. Large circular knitting machinery shipments were 7.4 percent
higher for the year 2000.The report showed 68 percent of all spindles, 70 percent of looms and 55
percent of large circular knitting machines were shipped to Asia.
July 2001

Global Markets Obvious


C
otton prices continue to tumble, as expected by those in the know. One respondent said, “
Cotton markets don’t look pretty. In fact, we had a seasonal daily low of 38.65 cents per pound.”

Asked if cotton farmers would plant cotton at those prices, he said, “Cotton may be bad, but
not as bad as other commodity crops.” Farmers will, therefore, probably plant cotton.

Cotton pricing is of concern to spinners as well. Not from the same perspective as that of
farmers, of course, but from the attitude of their customers. “When customers see raw cotton
pricing fall, they expect an immediate decrease in the price of their yarn. They simply don’t
understand that we are still using fiber that cost us 60 cents per pound. We will be all right when
we start using the cheaper cotton.” Of course, he was referring to margins that lately have been
leaning to the red, but would move to the black side of the ledger.


Pricing Problems

The continuing lackluster markets have caused yarn prices to drop dramatically. As one cotton
spinner observed, “Volume is slow, and pricing is about 80 to 85 percent of normal. All of our
sales are spots. I really feel that the second half will be better than the first.”

Texturizers say, “Our volume is OK, but pricing is terrible. A lot of our customers are in
real difficulty financially, which causes business to be so flat.” The sad thing about it is that
no turn-around is expected anytime soon. An expected reduction in capacity of textured yarns may
cause markets to “tighten up,” but that remains to be seen.

“Imports are killing us!” was the cry of virtually everyone. One spinner lamented, “We can no
longer compete! We used to have a month or two lead time, but now the importers are storing the
stuff and are still able to offer it at prices often less than we paid for our raw cotton.”

Synthetic spinners report that, while this is typically the season for sales to skyrocket and
production operations to require Sunday production, it hasn’t happened. One spinner said, “ Acrylic
business is not what we expected. We are closer to getting our asking prices, and this month is
better than last month, but we don’t know what will happen after July 4th. All markets are
short-term, where the customer decides to move, moves quickly, and wants two-day delivery.” Sound
familiar?


Bright Spots

However, all is not bad. While some segments are doing awful, others are doing very well. Those
that are doing well are working hard to improve what they do, changing production into special
products or focusing on niche markets. One weaver said, “Business is very good. I can’t produce
enough yarn to keep all of my looms running at full capacity. I am buying yarn to help out in
weaving. The future looks good, so we are planning to increase our yarn production. We are
considering buying more yarn-production machinery to support weaving.”

One polyester spinner for the knitting trade said, “Business is pretty good. We are running a
full schedule and are backed up a little. And the feeling is, if you have something that is going
good, don’t talk about it very much, and certainly don’t get into any specifics. If you do, you may
end up losing in the marketplace.”

“There is some improvement in coarse- and medium-count plied yarns for both ring and
open-end,” responded another spinner. “My plant is running seven days a week, 168-hour schedule. We
think that our success can be credited to a very diverse product line and willingness to accept
small orders.”

A spinner of medium-count knitting yarns said, “Things are better in this area than they are
in weaving. Prices are soft, compared to last year, but they are still holding. The most important
thing for us is that prices are still there. Overall, we have cut back a little, and our production
is down. However, this decrease compares to the last couple of years, when we were running full
blast.”

Here is an opportunity for a wool spinner/weaver: it has been reported the Army refuses to
wear wool berets made in China. Is there enough of the wool industry left to fill this need? It
does point out one difficulty we may have if the domestic textile industry is forced out of
business.

One yarn man expressed the feelings of many textile people by saying, “I try to be
optimistic. Sooner or later, customers will have to start buying again.” Hopefully, that time is
now!


July 2001

Screen Tech Formed To Distribute Rotary Screens

Max Daetwyler Corp., Huntersville, N.C., announced the formation of a new affiliate company, Screen
Tech, to distribute rotary screens to the textile industry. The nickel screens are available in all
repeat sizes, widths and meshes typically used by textile printers. Screen Tech promises quick
delivery for in-stock sizes.

 
July 2001

Strategic Moves

 
Purchasing entails a great deal more than finding the right product from the right supplier.
It’s a game of balancing price, delivery, quality and more.
 In an information age, when
time and knowledge are among the most valuable commodities to profitable operation, exploring new
strategies and tactics for making efficient purchases can pay significant dividends.That, in
essence, is the whole reason for the annual
Textile Industries Buyers Guide issue. It is the goal of the editors of
TI to provide a comprehensive reference of resources to make purchasing easier.But
purchasing entails a great deal more than finding the right product from the right supplier. Price,
quality, delivery, availability, lead times and more have a significant impact on the ultimate
total cost of a product. As more than one textile manufacturer has learned in the past few years,
cost and price, while related, are not synonymous. Despite the seeming paradox, the issues facing
purchasers today are at once both more complex and more simple than ever before. In terms of
complexity, there are more ways to evaluate and implement purchases than at any time in history. In
days gone by, a purchasing agent, department head or other qualified specifier would call a trusted
salesperson at a well-known vendor or three, get prices and availability, select the lowest-priced
of comparable products, and the process would be finished. Today, however, just finding the right
medium through which to make the purchase can be a major undertaking. Purchasing agents are still
bombarded by telephone and in-person sales calls, but the emergence of the Internet and e-commerce
as major elements of the supply channel has added a new and sometimes confusing dimension to the
process. The time-honored product catalogs that used to occupy drawer after drawer of filing
cabinet space are almost a thing of the past. In their place is a collection of compact discs that
can be kept on a desktop and easily accessed by computers. Direct mail, automated telephone sales
systems and other avenues provide the purchaser with yet even more choices. High Technology
Offers Speed And ConvenienceIt is the very complexity of the process, however, that makes it simple
at least, once the buyer is initiated into the world of high technology and can learn to function
with only the barest minimum of human interaction. Today, one can order everything from paper clips
to multi-million dollar machinery with a few clicks of the mouse. Additionally, in many cases, all
the financial transactions can be handled electronically, reducing costs in both personnel and
handling. 

In the past several years, a number of websites dedicated to textile purchasing have sprung
from the ether with a fair number of them folding shortly thereafter. The Thomas Register, perhaps
the ultimate industrial buyers guide, can now be had in its entirety on compact disc, eliminating
the need for a dedicated bookshelf somewhere in the purchasing department. Product specs can be
e-mailed almost instantly, eliminating the sometimes-frustrating wait for information on
time-critical purchases.Internet sites such as Fiberbuys.com, eSASA.com and others that offer
e-commerce solutions have made a lot of headlines in recent months for the ease, convenience and
savings these companies offer their members. According to a recent survey of purchasing agents by
Purchasing Magazine, 84 percent of buyers say they use Internet technology as part of their
computer sourcing process. Those not currently using the medium report plans to do so within the
next three years.But like many areas in which leading-edge technology is applied, some potential
beneficiaries are hesitant to use a medium they do not fully understand. According to the
Purchasing survey, some respondents still have concerns, many of which center around the stability
of e-commerce sites. A number of sites have failed after a relatively short period of time.But the
real watchword in purchasing these days as it seems to be in just about every other field of
information technology is value-added. In selecting from among many different products, there is
often less difference in performance and price than in the intangibles that ultimately determine
customer satisfaction. While the process of ordering can be done without nearly as much
face-to-face contact as in previous years, that personal touch becomes critical in assuring
satisfaction after the sale and repeat business for the vendor. What you get after the sale is at
least as important as what you get during it. Purchasing ConsortiumsIn the past decade,
consumer buying consortiums have emerged in everything from groceries to do-it-yourself products
for the home. The thinking behind these buying clubs is that the sales volume generated by multiple
consumers will result in significant price breaks. Today, more and more companies even large ones
that generate significant savings on their own are joining buying groups in the effort to squeeze
even more savings from the supply channel.The quickest way to harvest cost savings is to reduce
prices paid for materials, said J.C. Rice, president of United Sourcing Alliance, a purchasing
group for the textile industry. Even very large companies like General Mills, Abbott Laboratories,
and 3M, which have huge individual purchasing power, join purchasing groups to aggregate volumes
and further reduce costs of raw material, supplies and services.United Sourcing counts among its
members such marquee names as Burlington, Guilford, CollinsandAikman, National Spinning and
Greenwood Mills.All sourcing efforts by the Sourcing Team are customer-driven, Rice said. Members
semi-annually develop a list of high-interest commodities. These interests direct [United
Sourcings] priorities for negotiations for the coming period. 

United Sourcings staff, headquartered in Charlotte, N.C., manages the process. When
priorities are established, the staff collects consumption data by commodity from member companies.
Based on these volumes, negotiations are initiated with quality suppliers for lowest costs without
sacrificing service or quality. Contracts are developed, and implementation with member companies
is overseen. Contracts to date have yielded savings from 7 to 19 percent, according to Rice.
Value-adding services yielding additional cost reductions are often negotiated along with price
improvements, he said.Current commodity agreements include: office products and paper, business
forms, process chemicals for dyeing and finishing, polyfilm, electrical supplies, corrugated, lift
trucks, janitorial supplies and general mill supplies.Benefits, according to Rice, include
increased sales, reduced selling costs, long-term stable customer relationships, and increased
profits. Large volumes typically give suppliers more influence with the manufacturers they
represent. A key to suppliers enthusiasm for contracts with United Sourcing is the assurance that
they will receive expected volumes in exchange for lower prices and enhanced service. United
Sourcing is working to develop a strategy for purchasing non-strategic products and services
through the Internet. The e-commerce strategy will automate clients processes, maximize ability to
analyze information, and develop a unique e-market/e-procurement system.Phase One involves
procedures that will allow individual clients to make leveraged buys from aggregated purchasing
data. Phase Two will provide a web-based purchasing interface for clients, allowing seamless
connection to suppliers and elimination of redundancies in information systems.Cooperatively,
companies can determine the best vendors that will meet requirements for speed and total cost
reductions, Rice said. Investment cost for e-commerce capabilities will be much lower for a group
than individually.Supply management through group purchasing combined with e-commerce will provide
clients with lowest total material costs, he said.  Managing The Supply ChainWhether
purchasing in the traditional fashion, through the Internet or as part of a larger buyers group,
there is no doubt that managing the supply chain is becoming an increasingly critical issue for
many companies. Textile companies in the United States are doing less and less commodity work and
more made-to-order products. As well, the customers of the textile companies are demanding
just-in-time shipments and customer service that taxes the capabilities of even the most modern and
well-organized business. For example, Valdese Weavers, Valdese, N.C., underwent a long and often
painful implementation of an Enterprise Resource Planning program in order to qualify for high-end
business that requires careful and strategic managing of resources
(See Valdese Weaves ERP Success Story, TI, May 2001).In a highly competitive marketplace,
many companies are learning the same lessons as Valdese. As both buying and selling become more
efficient, new markets are opened and profit potential increases.Every day, more companies are
reducing inventories and streamlining planning and distribution channels in order to increase
profit and efficiency. Product and manufacturing cycles are getting shorter and shorter. Following
the trends of recent times, processes that used to take weeks will take only days. What just a few
years ago was an acceptable time from order to delivery is now woefully unacceptable. So,
management of the supply chain, including the best and most efficient method of purchasing, can
have a huge impact on how well a company positions itself in a highly competitive marketplace.

July 2001

Sulzer Sells Sulzer Textil To Promatech

Promatech S.p.A., Italy, a member of the Itema Group, has agreed with Sulzer Ltd to acquire Sulzer
Textil, subject to approval by the regulatory authorities.The worldwide Sulzer Textile business
will be transferred to Promatech. All employment contracts will be taken over in their present
form.Given the ongoing consolidation process in the industry, this is an important step towards a
successful future with sustainable earnings for the combined companies. The new group will be able
to offer customers a comprehensive product line and a global service network. Sulzer Textil will
continue its business as an operationally independent group. This includes the right to use the
trade name “Sulzer Textil.” The parties agreed not to disclose the transaction price.The
divestiture of Sulzer Textil is part of the focusing strategy of the Sulzer Corporation.Fred
Kindle, CEO, Sulzer Ltd., commented, “I am pleased that Sulzer Textil is being acquired by a
strategically well positioned group. For Sulzer, this is an important step towards completion of
the divestiture program, which will generate CHF 400 million in net proceeds for Sulzer.”Ulrich
Bolleter, president, Sulzer Textil, said, “In view of our strengths in quality, product innovation
and services together with the environment of Promatech and the Itema group, I have full confidence
in the long-term success of Sulzer Textil.”Miro Radici, Chairman, Itema Group, declared, “With the
acquisition of Sulzer Textil, we will gain market leadership in the worldwide weaving machinery
business. The synergy between the main business areas allows the Itema Group to offer its customers
a comprehensive range of innovative products and services to the highest quality standards.”Sulzer
Textil offers the broadest range of weaving machines from rapier to projectile to mutil-phase
technology. Regarding air-jet weaving machines, Sulzer Textil has been collaborating for many years
with Toyoda Automatic Loom Works, Japan. The strengths of Sulzer Textil include its
well-established global sales and service network, innovative products and the high quality of its
customer support and services. Sulzer Textil, with sales of EUR 440 million (CHF 684 million) in
2000, employs around 1850 people in total.Promatech (sales in 2000: EUR million; 750 employees) is
part of the Itema Group, which is active in four market areas: weaving machines, winding machines,
accessories and high-technology electronics. The Itema Group controls the following companies:
Promatech (with the two weaving machine brands Somet and Vamatex), Savio, Fimtextile, Nuova OMV,
Cincla, Actex, Eutron and Saar.

ADM Tronics Offers Water-Based Primer-Adhesive

ADM Tronics Unlimited Inc., Northvale, N.J., now offers an extrusion, lamination and printing
primer/adhesive called Polaqua 73F to printers and finishers. The primer is water-based and can be
used on a wide variety of substrates. High bond-strength is achieved with only minute application
levels, ADM claims. Inks bond rigorously to the primed surface if Polaqua 73F is first applied and
dried on the substrate.

July 2001

FAST Forward

FAST Forward
Verona, Italy, set the stage for hosiery-related seminars, meetings and workshops, as well as
integrated exhibition areas at FAST 2001
 

FAST 2001, held earlier this spring in Verona, Italy, reinforced two popular views emerging
in the worlds textile industry. First, the industrys truly specialized exhibitions are destined to
enjoy increasing success in coming years. Second, the real developments in niche sectors will
derive increasingly from synergy established between the various partners: fiber producers;
machinery manufacturers; and those end-users convinced of the value of innovation.FAST 2001, the
Italian hosiery show, in its third incarnation, has once again demonstrated through the power of
concrete numbers the power of its attraction within the Italian hosiery market. FAST has also
consolidated its position within the international trade fair scene, according to Luis Ciocca,
chairman of the fairs organizing committee. Indeed, at the end of last year, an agreement was
reached with the American hosiery manufacturers association [The Hosiery Association], which
organizes the International Hosiery Exhibition (IHE) in Charlotte [N.C.]. According to the terms of
this agreement, the two fairs the Italian one and the American one will be staged alternately at
two-year intervals: IHE in 2003 and FAST in 2005, and so on. This is an excellent result, the fruit
of a collaboration that will continue in the years to come. The result, he said, will contribute to
the development and strengthening of both exhibitions. The third incarnation of FAST attracted
181 exhibitors, 110 of which were from outside Italy. More than 14,000 visitors from 93 countries
attended the fair. Additionally, according to FAST organizers, the caliber of visitors was
particularly encouraging, with 11,400 being either managers or highly qualified technicians. Of
this number, 5,200 were from Italy and 6,200 from other countries. A further breakdown of numbers
revealed there were 2,300 operators from Northern and Western Europe; 1,000 from Eastern Europe,
including Russia; 970 from the United States; and 950 from the Middle East.Visitors had access to a
number of carefully integrated exhibition areas: yarns and accessories; preparation machinery;
circular knitting machines; looping machines; finishing and packaging machines; accessories; and
services. Hosiery In The SpotlightIncluded within the fair was a convention entitled Hosiery
in the Spotlight, an event made up of an opening conference and several specialized workshops. As
part of the event, consumption trends in hosiery were analyzed by ACNielsen Sita, and the results
were presented at two well-attended lectures.Looking at the current market scenario, womens hosiery
is still characterized by a falling trend. Establishing 1997 consumption as the benchmark (equal to
100), consumption of tights, stockings and knee-high hosiery fell to 99 in 1998, 92 in 1999 and 85
in 2000. The market situation, however, seems to have stabilized in 2001, and improvement is
anticipated. For mens hosiery, consumption has increased an average of 2.5 percent annually. An
interesting element is that this increase in demand can be attributed mostly to women, who are
buying more and more mens hosiery made from natural fibers. Short mens socks, long rejected by
Italian customers, are beginning to gain ground on knee-highs.Figures released also show the
evolution of large retail shops. In the womens hosiery sector, chain stores are recording strong
growth levels, and specialist shops are increasing as well. In the mens sector, despite the
prominence of market stallholders (42 percent), modern distribution channels, particularly
hypermarkets, are gaining ground on others.Sid Smith, president of The Hosiery Association (THA),
discussed similarities and differences between the Italian and American markets.Hosiery in the
Spotlight closed with a roundtable meeting entitled Socks: Fetish or Fashion
Accessory First-Time ExhibitorsFashion and the hosiery market were not, however, the only
topics around which FAST 2001 evolved. This year, the Verona-based exhibition welcomed 12 hosiery
manufacturers for the first time: BBF Gambetti; Calzificio Milanese Luigi Ciocca; Calzificio FAP;
Calzificio REA; Calzedonia; CSP International; Franco Bombana; Golden Lady Group; Industria Bustese
Calze; Kayser Roth Corp.; Mura Collant; and VMC (Vignoni). For these companies, the secluded
Business Point area, specifically designed for the purpose, provided a place to meet customers and
established or prospective partners to discuss, compare notes, and develop new relationships and
initiatives. Technical Innovation

As well as providing confirmation of the numbers participating at the event, operators also
had high expectations for the technical developments anticipated to be unveiled at the show. In
particular, visitors were anxious to check out state-of-the-art machinery in seamless hosiery, the
area attracting the most international attention of late. But technological innovations were also
prevalent in other areas, with significant developments emerging in the area of fibers, yarns and
filaments. Among the most important initiatives in this area, have been collaborations between
machinery companies such as Santoni and Matex and fiber companies such as Bayer, Filartex, Filature
Miroglio, Franzoni Filati, Bonazzi Aquafil, Nylstar and others. But the development of fibers,
yarns and filaments was evident in non-Italian companies as well. Of particular note was the
innovative silver fiber, X-Static, of American design, for which successful applications have
recently been found in Italy. Apart from developments in this arena, however, it was the entire
Italian hosiery industry pipeline that dominated the FAST exhibition. This pipeline features raw
materials (polyamides, elastomers, latest-generation man-made polymer fibers, etc.), new yarns, the
exhaustive and sophisticated range of weaving machinery, and leading technologies for special
applications.

July 2001

Guilford Launches Sensatiables Fabric

Guilford Mills, Greensboro, N.C., has launched Sensatiables, a new line of apparel fabrics made
from Sensura, Ultura and Comfortrel® Plus, three new fibers by Charlotte, N.C.-based Wellman
Inc.The new fabrics feature exceptional comfort, breathability, printability, moldability, soft
texture and moisture management, according to Guilford. They will be offered for intimate apparel,
casual sportswear, activewear and swimwear in various weights and fiber blends.

July 2001

Sponsors