Conflict Between Cotton Producers And Yarn Spinners


A
 t a recent meeting with a group of cotton producers to improve dialogue, the discussion
focused on the importance of fiber quality characteristics. Specifically, fiber characteristics
that contribute to improvements in manufacturing performance and product quality, and at the same
time lower cost for yarn spinners — thus providing a positive influence on company bottom line and
customer satisfaction.

To help those in attendance appreciate the importance of short fiber content and trash
content to yarn spinners, components from the Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS) were passed around. The
spindle, needle and needle holder were carefully observed/discussed. It was emphasized that this
system can’t handle and really doesn’t like short fibers, high micronaire or trashy cotton.

As you might expect, word came from the audience, “We can produce higher-quality cottons
with improved fiber properties, if we are paid for them. Our objective is the same as the textile
mill — to maximize profits. And for us right now, the best way to do that is to increase yield. The
objective is dollars per acre.”

Needless to say, after decades of discussion, the cotton marketing system doesn’t seem to
send the right signals from the spinner to the producer.


Incentives


Producers can produce a higher-quality fiber if the incentive is there. Money provides the
incentive and usually gets attention. Are mills getting what they pay for? Why can’t our leaders
recognize that giving our producers an incentive to produce cottons with improved fiber quality
characteristics contributes to performance improvements? One would expect better input would lead
to bottom-line improvements.

Producers truly believe that mills want better fiber qualities. They also have learned that
mills don’t want to pay for new cotton fibers. And spinners must be willing to pay for fiber that
helps the bottom line. Varieties for these new cottons yield less lint per acre, and with the
current marketing system, producer income would be reduced. Given this loss of income, these
varieties will not be developed/produced.

Spinners know fiber properties influence performance, quality and cost at every process in
the conversion of fibers into consumer products. There isn’t a process where better fiber
properties have a negative impact. If this is the case, why can’t all segments in the pipeline work
together, for the good of all?

It seems reasonable to think that if a supplier developed, created or produced something
that would help make money or improve the bottom line, it would generate a lot of interest.
Management of a company using this raw material would certainly want to explore the opportunities.


Cotton Situations


For the year 2001/02, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) reports a sharp
reduction in domestic mill use, higher exports and increased ending stocks of cotton. Domestic mill
consumption was reduced by 400,000 bales last month to 7.3 million — a 1.5 million-bale reduction
compared to the 2000/01 total of 8.8 million. Exports were raised 200,000 bales to 10 million (6.7
million in 2000/01), and ending stocks were increased 200,000 to 8.8 million bales (6 million in
2000/01). Production was 20.08 million versus 17.19 million bales in 2000/01.

With this reduction in U.S. mill consumption, it is worth noting what annual changes have
occurred in other countries. In Europe, there was a reduction of 270,000 bales. In the following
countries, consumption increased: China (250,000 bales); Central Asia (30,000 bales); Turkey
(150,000 bales); South Korea (100,000 bales); and Argentina (30,000 bales). Given these numbers and
trends, what does the future hold?

Cotton prices moved up slightly from those reported last month. Quotation for the base grade
in the seven designated markets averaged 32.73 cents per pound, up from 31.70 cents last month but
down from 61.04 cents a year ago.


Looking Better


All respondents said things seem to be turning around. One responded, “I am more positive
than at any time in the past several months. We have received some orders, so things are better for
the present time. I don’t know what it will be like next month, but it is good to have these orders
now.” Maybe there is a light at the end of the tunnel.



March 2002

Unifi AF And Y Form Polypropylene Agreement

Unifi, AF and Y FormPolypropylene AgreementUnder the terms of an agreement between Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., and American Fibers and Yarns Co. (AF and Y), Cumming, Ga., Unifi is now the commissioned false-twist texturizer of AF and Y polypropylene.Unifi now texturizes polypropylene feeder yarn supplied by AF and Y. Some of the textured yarn is returned to AF and Y for sale and distribution to home furnishings and contract upholstery markets. Unifi sells the remaining yarn into its core markets.This partnership with Unifi combines the technology, knowledge and experience of both companies to allow us to supply high-quality textured polypropylene products to our customers, said Mike Apperson, president, AF and Y.March 2002

Gene Cone President Johnston Industries Addresses The Atlanta Textile Club

Atlanta, 3/12/02 Gene Cone, President and CEO of Johnston Industries in Columbus, Ga., addressed the membership of the Atlanta Textile Club (ATC) at lunch on Monday, March 11. Echoing statistics from the American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI), Mr. Cone said, “The textile industry had lost over 160,000 jobs since 1997, 65,000 of these last year. And over 200 companies have closed since then, 100 of them last year”. But he was also positive about his company.”We cannot compete on cost or price. There is no magic bullet. We have to understand this business, take ownership of our company, work as hard as the immigrants who made this country great.” He outlined five strategies: make Johnston Industries a world-class, global player; focus on solving the customers problem; innovative, new, unique products; excellence in every person in the company; and partnership with customers, suppliers and other textile companies.After the lunch, Mr. Cone met individually with many of the 28 attendees at the lunch including journalists, trade show managers, sales executives, academics, suppliers and even those retired from the industry but lifelong members of the ATC.The April meeting of the ATC is a Golf Outing on April 8 and the May lunch on Monday, May 6 features Mr. Royce McInnis, VP of Sales for Alkahn Labels to tell us important trends in the technology and laws of labeling.About the ATCThe Atlanta Textile Club dates back to its beginnings in 1930 and continues today. The ATC is open to anyone involved in the global textile/apparel/sewngoods supply chain who lives in or near Atlanta. The ATC meets the first Monday of every month for lunch with guests speakers from key positions throughout the industry, and hosts several golf outings. Visit www.usawear.org/atc

Set For Success

Spinning TrendsBy Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent Set For Success
Based on demand for quality wool yarns, Amtex opens custom spinning plant serving world
market. S ince its inception in January 2001, Amtex (Yarn) Manufacturing Inc.,
Mississauga, Ontario, has been running at near capacity, with an annual production of 1.5 million
pounds of wool yarn. In a world market where global suppliers of innovative products that offer
quality and service to niche markets are the leaders, Amtexs future looks bright.

Zein Dawood, president, built the new facility because of an increasing demand for quality
wool yarns for the sock, sweater and weaving industries. Until he started this new venture, Dawood
worked with his father, Yakub Dawood, at Dawtex Industries, also located in Mississauga. Both
companies are family- owned. Dawtex produces acrylic and cotton/acrylic yarns. We wanted to
separate the wool and acrylic processing because we did not want to run into problems with
contamination due to acrylic fly, Dawood said.Amtex purchases natural, solid- dyed and heathered
wool top from world markets and sells coarse to ultra-fine-spun yarns to knitters and weavers
around the world. Heavy-count wool for socks comes from the United States, extra-superfine merino
from New Zealand and Australia. Most of the wool top is dyed in the United Kingdom. Amtex spins
single- to five-ply yarns.Amtex is a wool licensee for Total Easy Care®. Along with wool, the
company spins blends. Alpaca, cashmere, silk, nylon, polyester and Lycra® are in current
production. Wool/polyester blends are going into thermal underwear, wool/polypropylene is for
socks, and a blend of lambs wool and alpaca is going into upland hunting socks manufactured by the
Columbia Sportswear Co.®Merino wool/silk twisted with Outlast® microthermal fiber is being spun for
ski socks. Amtex has a five-year contract to produce merino wool sock yarns for Smartwool,
Steamboat Springs, Colo. Wool/nylon is being spun for McGregor Hosiery, Toronto.Currently, 80
percent of production is going into socks, 15 percent is for sweaters, and 5 percent is going to
the weaving trade. We have the equipment to weave ultra-fine- count yarns, especially yarns for the
suit market, Dawood said. A small amount of yarn is sold to the home furnishings market.

We think of ourselves as a custom spinner, said Dawood. We run a basic range with 30 colors
in stock. Most of our yarns are dyed and spun exclusively for each customer. We work as their
partner, developing the right yarns and colors for them. We can match a color in two weeks and
deliver a sample yarn two weeks after a color is approved. We are flexible and offer colored yarns
in any grade of yarn or fiber content.The Amtex mill is a ring-spinning operation on the worsted
system, using the latest state-of-the-art equipment. The company has Suessen EliTe® spinning frames
that can make compact yarns. Suessen EliTe-spun yarns are less hairy than conventional yarns,
Dawood explained. They are softer and stronger. We are the only spinner in North America with this
equipment. 

The newest winding and finishing machines are in place as well. Along with conventional
Cognetex equipment, Amtex has purchased Savio Orion and Obem equipment to wind, set and relax
yarns.Touch this sweater, said Dawood. It has the look and feel of a cashmere blend, but it is
100-percent merino spun on our Suessen EliTe equipment. We are able to offer a better product at
the same price. The EliTe equipment originally was developed for spinning cotton. It has been
modified for long-staple fibers. From fiber to yarn, Amtex runs stringent testing. Our plant
manager and quality-control personnel are highly technical and have a long history in the textile
market in regard to the spinning of merino wool, Dawood said.When the fiber first comes into the
mill, we test the fiber for oil content, color and quality. We test throughout the entire process.
We have Uster Tester 3 equipment to analyze the yarn for hairiness, strength, thickness, moisture,
among other factors. We have Uster Classimat equipment to check that the yarn is setting properly
on winders. Our final tests are of the finished cones.Amtex was built to be versatile, flexible and
efficient. We have room for expansion, Dawood explained. We can increase our production to 5
million pounds. It is our intent to constantly update and improve. We are constantly looking at new
technologies and equipment. We want to produce the most innovative and highest-quality yarns in the
market.In the United States, Amtex yarns are available through MS Sales Co. Inc., Commerce, Calif.;
and Pembroke Textile Associates, Greensboro, N.C.
March 2002

National Spinning Acquires Glen Raven Yarn Facility

National Spinning AcquiresGlen Raven Yarn FacilityNational Spinning Co. Inc., Washington, N.C., has purchased the yarn manufacturing facility in Kinston, N.C., from Glen Raven Inc., Glen Raven, N.C. The sale includes the building and land of the Kinston operation, as well as the business associated with the facility.We are delighted to strengthen our relationship with Glen Raven, said Jim Chesnutt, president and CEO, National Spinning. The Kinston facility will be a welcome addition to our company as we continue to aggressively pursue the sales yarn business by offering our customers a wide array of high-quality products.With the sale, Glen Raven has left the sales yarn business. The company will continue to seek to expand its global fabric strategy, concentrating on fabrics for home furnishings and industrial and automotive markets.March 2002

Keeping It Fresh

By Richard G. Mansfield, Technical Editor Keeping It FreshAntimicrobial agents can be used in fibers and textiles to provide long-lasting protection against microbial growth. During World War II, when cotton fabrics were used extensively for tentage, tarpaulins and truck covers, these fabrics needed to be protected from rotting caused by microbial attack. This was particularly a problem in the South Pacific campaigns, where much of the fighting took place under jungle-like conditions. During the early 1940s, the U.S. Army Quartermaster Corps collected and compiled data on fungi, bacteria, yeast and algae isolated from textiles in tropical and subtropical areas throughout the world. Cotton duck, webbing and other military fabrics were treated with mixtures of chlorinated waxes, copper and antimony salts that stiffened the fabrics and gave them a peculiar odor. At that time, potential polluting effects of the application of these materials and toxicity-related issues were not a major consideration.After World War II, and as late as the mid- to late-1950s, fungicides used on cotton fabrics were compounds such as 8-hydroxyquinoline salts, copper naphthenate, copper ammonium fluoride and chlorinated phenols. As the government and industrial firms became more aware of the environmental and workplace hazards these compounds caused, alternative products were sought. A considerable amount of work was done by the Southern Regional Research Laboratory of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the Institute of Textile Technology (ITT) and some of ITTs member mills to chemically modify cotton to improve its resistance to rotting and improve other properties by acetylation and cyanoethylation of cotton. These treatments had limited industry acceptance because of relatively high cost and loss of fabric strength in processing. In addition, the growing use of man-made fibers such as nylon, acrylics and polyester, which have inherent resistance to microbial decomposition, came into wider use to replace cotton in many industrial fabrics.In recent years, the emphasis has shifted from protecting textiles and textile products from microbial attack to protecting the environment and users of textile products from microbial attacks. Disinfectant materials provide a nearly instant but short-term solution to removing microbes, but antimicrobial agents are designed to provide longer-term solutions to eliminating microbes. Mechanisms And Methods For Protection In TextilesThe three mechanisms that can be applied to textiles in order to confer resistance to bacteria, fungi and mildew-producing fungi are: controlled release (Wakefield, Mass.-based AgION Technologies silver-based product); the regeneration principle (reactivation of antimicrobial by washing using a chlorine bleaching agent); and barrier or blocking action (triclosan products).For hydrophobic fibers like polypropylene, polyester and nylon, only the surface must be protected. Hydrophilic fibers such as cotton, rayon and lyocell require protection whenever moisture is present.

United Kingdom-based Avecia Ltd.s Reputex 20 antimicrobial can control the growth of microorganisms and the generation of odors when topically applied to textile products containing at least 35-percent cellulose (such as the socks pictured above). According to Jainwen Mao and Larry Murphy of Switzerland-based Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc., an ideal antimicrobial for textiles would have to fulfill the following basic requirements:safety the antimicrobial must demonstrate low toxicity to the consumers and must not cause allergy or irritation to the skin;compatibility the product must present no negative influences to the textile properties or appearance and must be compatible with common textile processing; anddurability the antimicrobial efficacy has to be durable against repeated laundering.Two major classes of antimicrobial products for fibers and textiles include leachable and nonleachable types. Leachable types are not bonded to the fiber or substrate and can be removed by contact with moisture. Nonleachable types are chemically bonded to the fiber or substrate, or are incorporated within the polymer and on the polymer surface. Triclosan-Based ProductsOne of the most durable types of antimicrobial products is based on triclosan, a diphenyl ether (bis-phenyl) derivative, known as either 2,4,4 -trichloro-2-hydroxydiphenyl ether or 5-chloro-2-(2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol. Triclosan products have been used for more than 25 years in hospitals and personal care products such as antimicrobial soap, toothpaste and deodorants.Triclosan is manufactured by Ciba® under the trade name Irgaguard® and by several other manufacturers outside of the United States. Ciba makes several versions of its Irgaguard products for incorporation into hydrophobic fiber. These include Irgaguard B 1325 for polypropylene carpet fibers and Irgaguard A 2110 for polyolefin artificial turf fibers because of its ability to inhibit growth of algae. Other Irgaguard antimicrobials for use in polyolefin fibers and nonwovens include Irgaguard B 1000, B 1325, B 5000 and B 7000. Irgaguard products for use with nylon fibers are Irgaguard B 5000 and B 7000. Tinosan AM 100 and Tinosan CEL antimicrobials are also available from Ciba for use on nylon and polyester or blends of the two.Triclosan inhibits growth of microorganisms by using an electrochemical mode of action to penetrate and disrupt their cell walls. When the cell walls are penetrated, leakage of essential metabolites occurs and other cell functions are disabled, thereby preventing the organism from functioning or reproducing. The triclosan, when incorporated within a polymer, migrates to the surface, where it is bound. Because it is not water-soluble, it does not leach out, and it continuously inhibits the growth of bacteria in contact with the surface using barrier or blocking action.Microban® International Ltd., New York City, was formed in 1994 to develop markets for products that can provide antibacterial protection. The Microban organization developed a licensing and certification program, initially based on its expertise with triclosan. These and related products are compounded with colorants and other materials prior to the fiber extrusion or molding processes. Microban has licensed the use of its trademark and certification for bedding products and food service materials. Charlotte, N.C.-based Microban Products Co., a wholly-owned subsidiary of Microban International, is the global headquarters for research and development, manufacturing and distribution of Microban antimicrobial compounds. The company creates custom antimicrobials for specific end-uses.Fibers containing triclosan include polypropylene from Synthetic Industries, Chattanooga, Tenn., and acrylic fibers from Houston-based Sterling Chemicals and Cydsa, Mexico. Silicone-Based ProductsThe AEGIS Microbe-Shield® treatment is based on quaternary silicones like 3-trimethoxy-silylpropyl -dimethyloctadecyl ammonium chloride, which become affixed to the surface of the fibers.The quaternary silicones marketed by AEGIS Environmental Management, Midland, Mich., have been used successfully and safely by the textile industry since the mid-1970s. The products are manufactured by Dow Corning Corp., also based in Midland, and were first sold under the Sylgard® trademark. One of the first successful uses of this product was Dow Cornings 5700 Antimicrobial product for athletic socks produced by Greensboro, N.C.-based Burlington Industries Sock Division. In 1990, Dow Corning spun off its antimicrobial sales and applications as a privately held company now known as AEGIS Environmental Management. Dow Corning still supplies materials to this company. Products are licensed and sold under the AEGIS Microbe-Shield trademark. Its products are used in a number of consumer products including Odor Eaters®, Dr. Scholls® and Russell Fabrics activewear.Application of the silicone-based antimicrobials is usually made from aqueous solutions, and they can be applied by padding, spraying and foam finishing. Upon removal of the water, the nonvolatile silane forms covalent bonds with the fabric, which results in excellent durability.Nonwovens are a growing area for the use of the silicone-based antimicrobials. Applications include baby diapers, incontinence pads and hospital/surgical uses.Bioshield Technologies Inc., Norcross, Ga., supplies silicone-based antimicrobial products for a wide range of uses including textiles, household and institutional maintenance and cleaning. Products for the textile industry, based on Bioshield technology, are sold by Apollo Chemical Co., Burlington, N.C. Bioshield has been granted recent patents on organosilane chemistry.One of the consumer products Bioshield Technologies sells is the Bioshield CarpetandUpholstery Cleaner and Odor Eliminator. This product is claimed to remove tough stains including those from food spills and pet accidents. The company also sells another product, Odor Free®, which is used between cleanings to work on pet and tobacco odors.

Avecia Purista antimicrobial keeps textile products fresher for longer. Towels treated with Purista are just as soft and absorbent as untreated ones, according to the company. Silver-Based ProductsAgION Technologies, formerly known as HealthShield Technologies, was formed in 1995. The company markets a silver-based antimicrobial with a unique delivery system.This antimicrobial is the result of 15 years of research by BF Technologies Japanese partner, Sinanen Co. Ltd. The AgION antimicrobial system is fully inorganic in nature. A zeolite mineral an aluminosilicate with a three-dimensional structure is used where silver is combined into the mineral structure by means of an ion-exchange reaction. Since the resulting material is ceramic in nature, it is extremely durable and can withstand temperatures as high as 800°C and still retain full antimicrobial effectiveness. This means that the AgION product can be incorporated into fibers made by melt spinning.The silver ions from the ceramic antimicrobial compound are released at a slow and steady, controlled rate. Ambient moisture in the air causes low-level release that effectively maintains an antimicrobial surface. As the humidity increases and the environment becomes ideal for bacterial growth, more silver is released yet there is a maximum release rate. So even under very wet conditions, the silver releases very slowly, ensuring long-term protection. The silver kills microbes by interacting with multiple binding sites on their surfaces.AgIONs antimicrobial is used for biomedical applications, consumer products and industrial applications. It can be used on the surface of a material or embedded directly in the material itself.The antimicrobial effectiveness of the AgION Technologies product has been confirmed against a variety of nosocomial airborne bacteria, yeast, fungi and molds, including escherichia coli (diarrhea), mycobacterium tuberculosis (tuberculosis) and streptococcus pyogenes (pharyngitis). Foss Manufacturings FossFibre® Antimicrobial FibersFoss Manufacturing Co. Inc., Hampton, N.H., is an innovative producer of nonwoven fabrics for automotive, industrial and consumer products (See Quality Fabric of The Month, TI, December 2001). The company has facilities in North America, Europe, Asia and Australia.FossFibre® incorporates AgION Technologies antimicrobials in its structure. Foss, however, has based its products on bicomponent fiber structures, which include a binder fiber as one of the components. To ensure the longevity and slow release of the agent, the active silver component is concentrated on the fiber surface and not in the core. The applications targeted for FossFibre are shown in Table 1.

 X-Static® Fiber From Noble Fiber TechnologiesNoble Fiber Technologies Inc., Clarks Summit, Pa., is a specialty processor of filament nylon yarns. The company has developed a proprietary process for incorporating metallic silver into a filament nylon base. The product has good acceptance for use in industrial products and in some U.S. FoodandDrug Administration (FDA)-approved medical products. It is registered with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as an antimicrobial product.Some of the properties that Noble Fibers cites for X-Static are as follows:antimicrobial eliminates odor-causing bacteria and athletes foot fungus;all-natural safe and non-toxic, contains no chemicals or pesticides;heat-transferring cooler in the summer, warmer in the winter;anti-static; and therapeutic many health benefits due to conductive properties. Regulatory ConsiderationsU.S. regulatory laws consider any product used to control microbes a pesticide. The active ingredient in any antimicrobial must be registered with the EPA and be approved by the FDA. Whenever an antimicrobial claim is made for a product, it must be registered with the EPA for a specific use. In order to better understand the terminology used for antimicrobials and related products the reader can consult the Online Glossary on Antimicrobial Resistance. This glossary can be found at the website for the National Center for Infectious Diseases, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: www.cdc.gov.

February 2002

Nordson Relocates Nonwovens Systems Group

Nordson RelocatesNonwovens Systems GroupDuluth, Ga.-based Nordson Corp. has moved its Nonwovens Systems Group from Norcross, Ga., to the manufacturing facility for the companys Fiber Systems and Web Coatings business units in Dawsonville, Ga. The Norcross facility now accommodates Nordsons Packaging and Product Assembly manufacturing.With separate, but related, business units in one location, Nordson hopes to better integrate product development, engineering, marketing and customer support programs.With closer proximity to the 40,000-square-foot Center of Excellence currently under development, well be able to simulate actual production line situations and perform extensive product and application testing before installation at the customer site, said Jim DeVries, vice president, Nonwovens Systems Group.February 2002

DyStar Getzner Partner For Electrochemical Dyeing Trials

DyStar, Getzner Partner ForElectrochemical Dyeing TrialsAustria-based Getzner Textil AG has signed a cooperation agreement with the Technology Team Electrochemistry Textile (TET), headed by DyStar Textilfarben, Germany. Under the agreement, Getzner will be the first company to use DyStars patented electrochemical dyeing process in pilot trials. Getzner will use the technology to vat-dye yarn on a package-dyeing unit. Other members of TET are the Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics at Austrias Innsbruck University, and Germany-based De Nora Deutschland GmbH.The new electrochemical dyeing process uses an electric current to reduce the dyes with the aid of a regenerable Fe2+/Fe3+ redox system. Conventional application methods use reducing agents that cannot be regenerated.The pilot trials will help TET further refine and develop the dyeing process. Dr. Wolfgang Schrott is in charge of the project for DyStar. He expects electrochemical dyeing to be suitable for a wide range of other applications including vat, indigo and sulfur dyes.In other company news, DyStar now markets all of its disperse dyes under the Dianix® brand. Following the acquisition of Germany-based BASFs textile dyes business, the branding aims to bring together Dianix dyes with the former BASF Dispersol® and Palanil® ranges.February 2002

Supreme Court Narrows Disability Act Coverage


W
 hile a U.S. Supreme Court opinion in a repetitive motion case narrows the scope of the
Americans with Disability Act’s (ADA) coverage, textile industry safety officials and labor lawyers
believe the act still leaves the door open to a range of claims.

On January 8, the court ruled that conditions preventing a worker from performing a specific
job are not necessarily legal disabilities as defined by the act. The unanimous ruling authored by
Justice Sandra Day O’Connor said: “To be substantially limited in performing manual tasks, an
individual must have an impairment that prevents activities that are of central importance to most
people’s daily lives. The impairment’s impact must also be permanent and long-term.”

Some of the problems associated with the ADA have been the questions of what injuries are
clearly job-related and when they are severe enough to be defined as disabling. Both labor and
management officials agreed that the ruling narrows the scope of coverage and will make it more
difficult for workers to show they are entitled to accommodations under the ADA.


Cambodian Textile Agreement Extended


The United States and Cambodia have agreed to a three-year extension of their textile and
apparel trade agreement, but the agreement doesn’t seem to satisfy U.S. manufacturers, organized
labor or importers.The sticking points are the size of the quotas and the fact that the agreement
includes provisions granting Cambodia a bonus if it improves worker rights and working conditions.

Charles V. Bremer, international trade director for the Washington-based ATMI, says the
agreement is overly generous for a country that does not qualify for membership in the WTO. Bremer
said the combination of a quota increase of 15 percent, along with a worker-rights bonus could
result in as much as a 33-percent increase in Cambodian imports this year.

The U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel (USITA), New York, does not like
the worker-rights provision because there are no measurable criteria or guidelines governing when a
bonus should kick in. This makes trade with Cambodia unpredictable, something that importers don’t
like.


ATMI Makes Major Cuts In Staff


Reflecting the adverse business conditions in the United States textile industry, ATMI has
announced a major downsizing that will result in the elimination of a number of key senior staff
positions. ATMI President Charles A. Hayes said that over the next 60 days, the positions of
director of government relations (chief lobbyist), one assistant director of government relations,
chief economist, and director of membership and administrative services will be eliminated.

woutlook1_1399
ATMI President Charles A. Hayes

Executive Vice President Carlos Moore will go on half-time status until a new executive vice
president is hired. He will focus on international trade and cotton issues.

While some industry observers believe the move could seriously weaken the industry’s ability
to lobby Congress and the administration, Moore said the industry’s lobbying strength comes from
itsmembers and its textile state supporters in Congress. He said the industry has succeeded in
getting strong commitments from Congress and the administration to address critical international
trade and economic issues. “Much of the hard work is done,” he said.

“Those commitments are in place, and our staff, our members and our supporters in Congress
are committed to following through and getting them implemented.” Beyond that, Moore said, ATMI
will continue to have the services of Boyden Gray, a former White House chief of staff, who has
been successfully lobbying the administration.


Importers Don’t See Surge From China And Taiwan


Although U.S. quotas on a variety of textile and apparel imports from China and Taiwan were
removed in January, importers do not expect any surge in exports from those countries in the near
future. A much larger surge is expected in January 2005, when all quotas are due to be removed.

When China and Taiwan were admitted to the World Trade Organization (WTO) on January 1, they
were allowed to catch up with the gradual phase-out of quotas that had been underway for other WTO
members since 1994. U.S. textile manufacturers were strongly opposed to granting the “catch-up” to
China, which had been under a fairly restrictive bilateral quota agreement, but since WTO rules
state that all members must be treated equally, they were permitted to come in under the third
phase of the 10-year phase-out.

While China is a major manufacturer of many products that now are quota-free — including
silk, linen and ramie, coats, jackets, dresses and trousers — importers question whether there are
markets in this country for those products that could result in major increases in imports. In
addition, the U.S. recession led to a decline in apparel sales at the retail level. As a result,
there was no growth in apparel imports last year, and textile imports actually declined by about 3
percent.

Taiwan could become more of a factor in the import markets for knit fabrics, luggage, table
linens, yarns and blankets.The gradual quota phase-out was designed to cushion the U.S. industry
from any major impact on high-volume products, so big hits are not expected to come when all quotas
are removed in 2005. The American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) estimates that China
accounts for about 9 percent of the import market today, but that share could grow to 31 percent in
a quota-free world.



February 2002

Spring Ahead

Premiere VisionBy Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent Spring Ahead
Premiere Vision presents new color and fabric trends for Spring/Summer 2003.

 On the eve of Premiere Vision, which will take place February 20 to 23, fabric lines
for Spring/Summer 2003 are complete. Weaves, weights, colors, patterns and surface treatments were
all determined several months ago.Each season, a committee of leading textile stylists and
forecasters pools their knowledge to create a universal range of colors and trends, which will be
presented at the salon in Paris. Input comes from members of a European consortium who meet first
in their own countries, with a follow-up in Paris to develop unified directions for the season.

Pascaline Wilhelm, Premiere Vision fashion director, has organized the colors and trends into
groups, which she has presented to exhibitors as a guideline for the season. Colors are shown in
four groups with seven shades in each. White is shown with all ranges. Confidential has soft,
slightly grayed pales or tinted neutrals. Champagne, absinthe, putty, pale sky blue, peach tint and
vapor gray are the colors here.The second group, called Experimental, is dominated by yellowed
greens. Citrine, a fluorescent yellow, and taupe are in this range. It is described as having
biological freshness. Sensoriel shades in the third group are warm pink, clay, sandalwood, apricot,
orangeade, shrimp and watermelon. Darks in the Intellectuel range are basic shades of navy and red,
with plum, teak brown, asphalt gray and cognac.The look of natural fibers, real or imitation, is
pointed out for touch and irregularity of weave and surface. Silky or cotton-like crepons, cloques,
seersuckers, and wrinkled or creased looks are light, soft and fluid. Crepe, suede and decorated
lace are described as tactile affinities.Silky fabrics can be fluid or crunch in pure silk,
viscose, acetate, nylon, or blends. Jacquard fabrics with a matte/shine contrast and discreet sheen
are some of the suggestions. Suiting fabrics in cotton include patterns borrowed from wool. There
are yarn dyes, birds-eye weaves and end-and-ends.Neat, compact sporty fabrics mentioned are denim,
diagonal weaves and double cloths. Many contain stretch fibers. They can be woven in cotton, linen
or synthetics. Linen/wool blends are also mentioned.Finishes that suggest a subtle, worn look are
slightly bleached, barely pigmented or aged. Along with discreet shine, there are iridescent
effects, and lacquered and quartz-finished surfaces.Printed patterns can be humorous, exotic,
figurative, geometric or abstract. Ikats, tie-dyes and over-dyes are pointed up. Application
treatments include burn-outs, cut yarns, embroidery, eyelets and hem stitching on lace, tulle and
gauze. The Linen SectorPauline V. Delli-Carpini, North American representative, Masters of
Linen, reports that the linen weavers who will exhibit at Premiere Vision expect Spring/Summer 03
to be a good season. With neutral colors and natural looks in fashion, it bodes well for linen, she
said. Pure linen is in demand because of the aesthetics, and blends offer performance. Today, there
are so many crease-resistant finishes, younger generations dont associate linen with
wrinkling.Delli-Carpini said there will be at least the same number of exhibitors in the linen
sector as in the past, possibly more if space opens up. There is a substantial wait list.Ornella
Bignami, of the Italian firm Elementi Moda and a member of the Premiere Vision Trend Concertation,
is trend forecaster for Masters of Linen. She projects three directions linen will take for the
season: Silence, Charm and Discipline.The Silence trend shows a range of whites and tinted whites,
along with washed neutrals, beige, powder gray and golden washed tones. Voile, crepe and light
knits are supple. Heavier weights include canvas and bleached denim. There will be a variety of
stripes, dr#44; pleats and laser-cut designs.Colors and fabrics in the Charm group are romantic and
sensual. Colors include golden blush, wood rose, hay and leafy greens. Seersucker, sateen, toile
and gauze are some of the fabrics mentioned. Yarn-dyed patterns show handkerchief plaids and
variegated stripes. Embroideries are in this range. Finishes are smooth. Along with pure linen,
there are blends with cotton, viscose and paper.Dark colors and ombres turn up in the Discipline
range. Cobalt, caf44; raisin, graphite, ebony, onyx, majolica blue, garnet and black are the
shades. Rustic weaves are soft to the touch. There are worn, washed aspects, grill patterns,
diagonal stripes, simple geometrics, color blocking, cubist designs and denims.Delli-Carpini will
have a library of seasonal linens at the Masters of Linen New York office. Trend presentations will
be held for both fashion and home furnishings in March. Trends From Expofil

Sylvie Tastemain, fashion director for Expofil, is another member of the Premiere Vision
Trend Concertation. Her Spring/Summer 03 color range for Expofil shows five groups: luminous and
fresh whites, slightly bleached sharp acid tones, grays illuminated by aluminum, deep shades and a
subtle range of faded mid-tones.Tastemain presents fabrics in four directions. A group called
Corrosion features grainy surfaces such as supple, dry-hand crepes. Some have ridges and grooves,
veined and wavy patterns. Fabrics in this group are simple, elegant and sometimes rustic. Natural
fibers predominate; some are blended with synthetics to produce greater fluidity or luminous
effect.There are knitted fabrics with a slightly sandy look, micro-honeycomb patterns, ultra-fine
cotton crepons, seersuckers, silk chiffons and tonal stripes in the Corrosion group.According to
Tastemain, inspiration for the Transformation group comes from crafts and a need to be thrifty with
resources. Cotton is the dominant fiber, although some of the transformations it undergoes change
its look. Fiber blends produce fancy yarns and random effects. There are slubs, nubs, color flecks,
tweeds and coarse-gauge knits. Designs can be random and blurred. There are tussah silks, basket
weaves, torn looks, matte/shine contrasts, appliquand embroideries.The Imitation group, according
to Tastemain, is an effort to mimic nature. Flax is the dominant fiber here. Fabrics can have a
dry, almost brittle look. Fabric treatments include stone-washing, resin-coating, metallic- or
glazed-finishing, discharge- or warp-printing and pearl- or sequin-embellishing.Construction refers
to fabrics that have a strict, modern classicism. Tastemain describes them as sophisticated with
technical refinement. Surfaces can be blurred or hatched with a slightly rustic look. Chines,
moulines, matte/bright contrasts, lightweight compact fabrics, short slubs and nubs and irregular
weaves are mentioned. Fiber SectorSandy MacLennan of East Central Studios is on the United
Kingdoms trend committee and is Tencel®s consultant for fabric and color direction. For Tencel, he
shows colors in five groups. He describes Duo as pale twins and sunny partners. Warm light brown is
paired with creamy white. There are light and lighter blues, yellows, grays and cognacs. Voiles,
batistes and matte shirtings are fabric suggestions.Icy white, cool blues and greens, and violet
and brown are in MacLennans Cooled range. Iridescent fabrics and glossy surfaces are some of the
fabrics shown.Dry-hand fabrics, compact weaves, linen textures and rustic looks are in a group
called Arid. Sun-baked and faded olive, gold and brown are the colors here. Blackened browns and a
bright denim blue are in a range called Sculpture. Tencel/linen blends, textured and fluid fabrics
go in this group. Sunny reds, pinks and yellows are in the Joie de Vivre range. Its an energetic
look, MacLennan said.

At DuPont, New York City-based Fashion Director Roseann Forde handles global color
forecasting. For Spring, she shows a group of sophisticated neutrals that she refers to as tea
stains. There is a range of cool blues that goes from cornflower and chambray to turquoise and a
purple-cast indigo. Black and white are in this group.Serene Greens are inspired by plant life.
They are both yellow- and blue-cast, and are accented with sunshine yellow and raspberry. Reds
encompass true reds, pinks, oranges and grapes, with rust- and green-cast yellow accents. Browns,
garnet, steel and polished silver-gray are in the darkest range.Innovative fabrics shown at DuPont
were developed in Italy. Some contain new fiber variants that were introduced at Premiere Vision in
October. Forde shows a double-faced knitted fabric in a blend of Tactel® prisma/Tencel and a
lightweight, semi-lustered heather knitted of Tactel/Lycra® that has a crisp touch.T-400, a
relaxed-stretch Lycra, is shown blended with cotton and with Tactel in a line of menswear fabrics.
Many of the fabrics are knitted from air-jet-textured yarns. There are rustic weaves, pebble
textures, slubbed and nubbed linen looks, puckers, hand-crocheted looks, lustered sheers, polished
surfaces and metallic patterns.At Cotton Incorporated, New York City, Suzanne Shapiro, senior
director, fashion marketing, said, There is a return to the basics, but with a difference. The new
basics are more refined and have been reworked through unique constructions, use of color and
finishes.Color-wise, Shapiro said brown is the foundation. She shows brown or brown-cast shades in
several ranges. Hide, bronze and rum browns are in a range called Basic Sophistication. The Washed
and Worn category shows faded shades of cowboy coffee, pine, pueblo and light bone.Shapiro notes
that monochromatic color and tone-on-tone are key trends. She shows large groups of pale, tinted
colors and neutrals.Fabric predictions at Cotton Incorporated show smooth, mercerized fabrics with
a silk-like hand in either pure cotton or cotton/nylon. There are open leno weaves, seersuckers,
gauzes, chambrays, twills, cords, slubbed knits, linen looks in cotton/linen blends, canvas, terry
cloth and a lot of denim.Some of the denims Shapiro shows have novelty application treatment such
as wax- or rubber-coated surfaces, splatter prints, metallic touches or embroidery. Others are
washed, bleached, napped, double-faced or screen-printed. There is a lot of stretch denim.There
will be about 750 fabric companies from 14 European countries showing and selling fabrics at
Premiere Vision. Other exhibitors are fiber companies that use the salon as a platform to introduce
new products and dispense trend and resource information.What will be the best sellers for
Spring/Summer 2003 at Premiere Vision Stay tuned.
February 2002

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