Trade Talks In Trouble As Deadline Passes

A top US trade official has expressed his disappointment that trade ministers at the World Trade
Organization (WTO) failed to meet an April 30 deadline to agree on how to proceed with trade
liberalization negotiations, which many say must be concluded by the end of this year.

Peter Allgeier, US Ambassador to the WTO, told a meeting of trade negotiators that failure to
meet the April 30 deadline was more than a disappointment; it raises serious questions about our
collective commitment to the Doha Round goals of significant liberalization and reform of trade
this year. Trade officials had set an April 30 deadline to complete the so-called modalities that
would set out the procedures for carrying out negotiations.

A new deadline of July 31 has been set, raising major concerns that it would not be enough time
to reach agreement on a wide range of agriculture, industrial and consumer trade issues.

The end-of-2006 goal to complete the negotiations is considered critical, as that would give the
US Congress time to ratify the agreement under the president’s trade promotion authority (TPA),
which expires in July 2007. Under TPA, what will likely be an intricate trade agreement can only be
given an up or down vote in Congress without any amendments permitted. With the present mood in
Congress with regard to trade, there is no assurance that TPA would be extended.

Both textile manufacturers and importers of textiles and apparel would like to see the Doha
Round move forward, but for different reasons. Textile manufacturers are braced for some tariff
reductions, but they hope the round would result in something more important to them – a
safeguard mechanism that would permit the imposition of import quotas where there is market
disruption or a threat of market disruption. Imports see the tariff cuts that will be proposed as
part of the Doha Round as a way to get the products they need at the best prices from a wide
variety of sources.

Looking at the new July deadline, Allgeier called for negotiators to get serious now and not
backload all the tough decisions until July through inaction. “We can bring the Doha Round to a
successful conclusion by the end of this year if we stay focused on the job at hand and make the
necessary decisions,” Algeier said. “We need to do this in the coming weeks. We do not have the
luxury of postponing decisions on agriculture and manufacturing modalities until the end of July –
we must start to see the shape of the overall package in July.” He added the trade ministers have
an enormous challenge in the days ahead.

However, he said the United States remains committed to the very highest level of success, and
it is prepared to exercise the will, devote the resources, provide the leadership and work with the
rest of the WTO membership.

May 1, 2006

Frontier, Cheraw Merge Businesses

Frontier Spinning Mills Inc.,
Sanford, N.C., and Cheraw, S.C.-based Cheraw Yarn Mills have merged their businesses. Cheraw now
operates as a division of Frontier, retaining its name and management team, according to Bill
Malloy, Cheraw’s vice president.

“We’re pretty excited about the merger,” Malloy said, adding that the two companies are a “
good fit” for each other. He explained that Cheraw spins open-end cotton, polyester/cotton and
polyester yarns for specialized, niche applications, while Frontier — which spins cotton and
cotton/blend yarns using open-end, air-jet and vortex machinery — is more volume-oriented.

Cheraw will retain all of its employees, who number approximately 165, and also plans to
install new equipment, Malloy added.

Frontier operates seven other plants in various locations in North Carolina and Alabama, and
employs approximately 1,500 people, not including those at Cheraw.

The merger with Cheraw comes on the heels of Frontier’s acquisition of the Columbus,
Ga.-based denim spinning operation of Swift Galey, an Atlanta-based apparel, home and hospitality
textiles manufacturer. Frontier will move the machinery from that operation to plants in North
Carolina, and will spin yarn for Swift Galey’s denim fabrics.


May/June 2006

Treasury Dept. Fails To Cite China As A Currency Manipulator

Textile lobbyists have reacted sharply to the US Treasury Department’s decision not to label
China a currency manipulator. The administration opted instead to continue informal discussions on
what is viewed by textiles and other industries as a serious currency undervaluation.

In a semiannual report mandated by Congress, the Treasury Department said there is not
sufficient evidence that China is manipulating its currency in order to gain an unfair advantage in
international trade. The report did note, “[F]ar too little progress has been made in introducing a
flexible exchange rate.” The sticking point is that in order to label China a currency manipulator,
subject to actions by the US government, it must be determined there is an intent to gain an
advantage. The report said the technical requirements for China to be designated a manipulator
under US law have not been met.

The report said that in July 2005, China abandoned its eight-year peg to the dollar and moved to
a managed floating exchange regime. Since that time, China’s currency, the renminbi, has
appreciated 2.6 percent against the dollar. US textile trade officials contend that current
exchange rate amounts to as much as a 40-percent subsidy for China’s imports. Despite the
discrepancy and a surging US trade deficit with China, the report says China continues to take
steps to create market infrastructure and financial instruments for floating currency. It adds that
China’s commitment to move to a flexible exchange rate is clear and has been repeated at the
highest levels of the Chinese leadership.

Textile industry representatives in Washington and congressional supporters sharply attacked the
report.

Charging that the US government kowtows to China, the American Manufacturing Trade Action
Coalition (AMTAC), which represents a wide range of manufacturers including textiles and labor,
said, “[D]ialogue with China is not enough; the US industry needs action now.”

 AMTAC Executive Director Auggie Tantillo stated: “The US trade deficit with China was $202
billion in 2005, and the US manufacturing sector has lost more than 2.8 million jobs since the
beginning of 2001. Rome is burning. How much longer will the US government fiddle while the US
industry bleeds?”

Rep. Robin Hayes, R-N.C., challenged the conclusions of the report and cited what he called the
devastating effect the exchange rate problem has had on the domestic textile industry. In a letter
to Treasury Secretary John W. Snow, Hayes said, “I wholeheartedly disagree with this report, and I
can tell you on behalf of the constituents of the 8th District of North Carolina and manufacturers
across the nation we want action against China now.”

Cass Johnson, president of the National Council of Textile Organizations, said China has shown
it won’t do anything until the US government shows there are consequences, and he called for
Congress to enact legislation that would levy punitive sanctions on China. Sens. Charles E.
Schumer, D-N.Y., and Lindsey O. Graham, R-S.C., have introduced legislation that would levy a
27.5-percent duty on China’s imports unless it reforms its currency. Although Schumer says he is
unhappy with the Treasury Department report, he is willing to postpone a vote on the bill until
September. There also is legislation in the House that would enable US industries to take punitive
actions against China. That bill has more than 150 cosponsors, but action is not expected in the
near future.

On May 15, the Bank of China permitted a slight increase in China’s currency against the dollar
in a move that Treasury Department officials say is evidence that diplomacy can work.

May 1, 2006

Globalization – A Win-Win Possibility?


M
any big thinkers throughout history have shaped ideas that form the foundation of
globalization. The bottom line for many steeped in economics is that unimpaired global free trade
will create an absolute economic nirvana. For them, international trade means international peace.
Through global specialization, total costs are lower around the world, and global economic
efficiencies are maximized. By ridding the world of tariffs and quotas, the free market’s invisible
hand will determine how much and where corn, sugar, cotton and wheat should be grown; where to
build airplanes and autos; and where medical tests will be evaluated.

Global standards of living will be equalized at a higher level than is found in today’s most
impoverished sections of the globe, and the highest will be lowered — but think: greater global
good. Rising standards of living will increase consumerism, which leads to the free flow of ideas,
which will grease the skids of free thought, which ultimately will lead to democracy.

The interconnectedness of the global economic framework will make it impenetrable to
nationalistic fanaticism because there will be no way to be an economic island in a global economy.

So, why cry foul?

Opinions vary, but one of the most straightforward is that while global growth continues and
gross domestic products rise, everything will be fine aside from the readjustments that occur
around the globe regarding entire employment and asset sectors — like textiles. Don’t worry, lower
labor rates for the displaced will be offset by lower-cost consumer goods as those workers do their
part for the greater global good.

The downside comes with the first hiccups that chill global growth. An oil, health or
political crisis — or any unexpected interruption to the underlying linkages at the foundation of
the global economy — could set off an economic storm the likes of which we have never seen.

As the supposed benefits of globalization raise the total economic benefit, the cost and risk
move beyond anything one nation has ever tried to control. Nation-based economic tools will become
obsolete, and the demand for greater economic safety nets comes at a time of reductions for many
such plans.

On a larger scale, can countries really suspend their national self-interest for the right to
become part of the integrated global economic fabric? Think of China’s announced 15-percent
increase in defense spending this year after rising 13 percent last year — or the US activities in
the Middle East or the knowns and unknowns throughout the Middle East.

Industries like textiles, autos, steel, agriculture and energy will all face the question of
being essential to an economic superpower. Retaining them through market management, such as tariff
and government programs, flies in the face of global free trade. National security, economic
sovereignty and the hunger for transnational corporate growth will continue to test the
eventualities of globalization and the realization that truly global free trade has some unintended
consequences. In the meantime, practice those old-time hiccup cures — they might be necessary
sooner than economists think.


May/June 2006

Collins & Aikman To Quit Automotive Fabrics Business

Troy, Mich.-based automotive systems
and cockpit modules supplier Collins & Aikman Corp. announced it will exit the automotive
fabrics business, pending approval by the US Bankruptcy Court. The action will impact approximately
1,200 employees in three fabric manufacturing plants in Roxboro, N.C., one in Farmville, N.C., and
a laminating plant in El Paso, Texas. It will be implemented over a transitional period depending
on when the business can be transferred to other suppliers.

The company is seeking a buyer for the El Paso operation, but it has abandoned efforts to
sell the rest of the fabrics business, according to David A. Youngman, vice president,
communications. He said the business has been unprofitable, and a turnaround is not projected.

“Despite an aggressive cost-cutting program, the business is projected to continue to be
unprofitable,” Youngman said, noting the company has invested heavily in technologies to produce
fabric styles, such as velour, that no longer are popular with consumers. In addition, he said, “
Sales have dropped from more than $300 million in 2004 to a projected $150 million in 2006, and we
have an extensive amount of excess capacity.”

Other factors in the business’s misfortunes include escalating raw material prices and the
transfer of manufacturing offshore, according to Gerald Jones, executive vice president, Fabrics.

The company’s automotive carpets business remains profitable, and is not included in the
decision, Youngman said.

“Our other automotive operations still offer value-added products. For example, there are
three automotive carpet plants in North Carolina and others elsewhere. That is one of our core
competencies, along with injection-molded panels and other products,” he said.

Collins & Aikman filed voluntary petitions to reorganize under Chapter 11 bankruptcy
protection in May 2005. The company plans to complete the shutdown of its Fabrics business before
the end of September 2006, when it expects to emerge from bankruptcy. Youngman said the company
could emerge as a stand-alone company, or it could be sold. Among those parties who have expressed
interest in the company, he said, is New York City-based financier and chairman of the Greensboro,
N.C.-based International Textile Group, Wilbur L. Ross Jr., whose recently formed International
Automotive Components Group has acquired Collins & Aikman’s European businesses.


May/June 2006

Wellman To Up Polyester Staple Price

Wellman Inc., a Fort Mill, S.C.-based polyester product manufacturer, reports it will increase
the price of all polyester staple fiber by 3 cents per pound, effective June 4, 2006. The rising
costs of petrochemical-based raw materials led to the price increase, according to the company.

May 1, 2006

Ciba Develops MagiCarpet Jet-Printing System

Switzerland-based Ciba Specialty
Chemicals Inc. has introduced MagiCarpet, a carpet jet-printing system that includes dyes and
chemicals for all fiber types, and Ciba® Alcoprint® CT-DP thickener. Endorsed by Austria-based J.
Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH, MagiCarpet was specially designed for Zimmer’s ChromoJet® printers. The
system is suitable for all finished carpet products including carpet tiles, rugs, mats and
wall-to-wall carpets. According to Ciba, Alcoprint CT-DP thickener allows brilliant shades and
maximizes fixation even at low pHs.


dpf


Ciba has introduced MagiCarpet, a jet-printing system for carpets, for use with Zimmer’s
Chromojet™ printer.



“[The system] allows carpet printers to make the most of all the advantages of jet printing,
including high flexibility in terms of fiber materials, production runs, design and end product,”
said Peter Otto, global head of Textile Effects marketing, Ciba.


May/June 2006

VDMA Releases 2005 Textile Machinery Export Figures

 The Textile Machinery Association of the German Engineering Federation (VDMA), Frankfurt,
reported the country’s textile machinery manufacturers exported machinery and accessories totaling
3.4 billion euros in 2005. Overall, exports declined by 5.3 percent for the year, but there were
significant increases in several markets, and the country remains the leading supplier globally of
textile machinery and accessories, according to VDMA.

Although Asia accounted for 46 percent or 1.6 billion euros of Germany’s textile machinery
exports, those exports declined by 7.6 percent. While exports to China were down by 27 percent,
that country remained the largest buyer of German machinery, with purchases totaling 742 million
euros and comprising 22 percent of Germany’s total exports. Exports to India, Iran and Pakistan all
rose considerably. India spent 232 million euros on German machinery, a 62.9-percent year-on-year
increase overall and up by 124.1 percent, 56.2 percent and 52.1 percent, respectively, for
spinning, weaving and finishing machinery. Iranian purchases totaled 89 million euros, up by 42.4
percent. Pakistani purchases grew by 31.1 percent, with specific increases of 98.3 percent and 42.7
percent, respectively, for finishing and spinning equipment.

Textile machinery exports to the Americas grew significantly to 587 million euros, accounting
for 17.2 percent of the total. Shipments to North America grew by 25.5 percent, with US purchases
up by 22.7 percent to 315 million euros. That figure represented 9.2 percent of total German
exports, the second-highest after Chinese purchases and the highest US total since 2001. In
particular, deliveries rose by 84 percent and 42.5 percent, respectively, for spinning and
finishing machinery. Exports to South America rose by 53.7 percent, and within that continent,
Brazil increased its purchases by 79.3 percent to 127 million euros.

Closer to home, Germany’s textile machinery shipments declined by 7.9 percent to countries
within the European Union and by 17.3 percent to the rest of Europe including Turkey, with a total
turnover of 1.1 billion euros or 33.3 percent of total exports. Turkish purchases accounted for 9
percent the third-largest portion by country of the total.

May/June 2006

Heimbach Orders Fehrer Needleloom

Heimbach GmbH & Co. KG, a
Germany-based manufacturer of papermaker felt, has ordered a NL19 needleloom with a working width
of 14.5 meters from Austria-based Fehrer GmbH, now part of Saurer GmbH & Co. KG’s Neumag
business unit, also based in Germany.

NL19 technology features precision felt splice positioning, a unique lighting system,
reduced downtimes and a fully automatic needle-board changing system that enables board changing in
10 minutes, according to Fehrer.


May/June 2006

Administration Pursues FTAs


T
he Bush administration’s highly touted “ top-to-bottom review” of its trade policies with
China has created considerable interest among textile manufacturers and importers, and they are
closely watching how the rhetoric will be translated into action. In the report, the administration
used some of its strongest language in discussing trade with China, saying the United States’
bilateral trade relationship with China “ lacks equity, durability and balance.” The report,
entitled “US Trade Relations: Entering a New Phase of Greater Enforcement and Accountability,” says
“the time has come to readjust our trade policy with respect to China.”

The report calls for expanding the US Trade Representative’s (USTR’s) ability to monitor
Chinese trade and determine whether China is living up to its obligations under the rules of
international trade. In order to do that, the USTR will create a China Enforcement Task Force
headed by a chief counsel for China trade enforcement. It also will add personnel to its Beijing
office in order to expand its information-gathering, enforcement and negotiating capabilities. The
USTR will deal with protection of intellectual property rights as well as such issues as market
access, subsidies and structural problems like currency manipulation that have been bones of
contention with companies and industries doing business with China. The report also promises to
strengthen the executive-congressional partnership on China trade and provide congressional members
and staff with regular briefings about the administration’s China trade policy.

In a letter forwarding the report to key members of Congress, USTR Rob Portman said: “We are
entering a new phase in our bilateral trade relationship, and we must readjust our trade priorities
and resources accordingly. China as a mature trading partner should be held accountable for its
actions and required to live up to its responsibilities.”

While welcoming the report and its high-sounding rhetoric, textile lobbyists in Washington
are concerned about what it all actually means in terms of concrete results. Lloyd Wood of the
American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition said the report does not have a “roadmap for actions”
for the US government to correct what he sees as major problems. He said the only time anything
meaningful on Chinese textile trade has come about was a result of actions such as the safeguards
that resulted in an agreement to impose quotas on 34 categories of textiles and apparel. He added
that China understands the stick better than the carrot, and there is “too much carrot and not
enough stick in our trade relations with China.”

At a news conference discussing the report, Portman cited the textile safeguards-related
agreement as an example of a “good, tough, but balanced agreement.” NCTO’s Cass Johnson voiced his
concern over rhetoric versus action by saying the language was harsher than ever before, but no
punitive actions were mentioned. He added he hopes the report sets the tone for “more aggressive
action.”

The nation’s retailers —the largest importers of textiles and apparel — see some positive
aspects of the report and nothing that appears to raise any red flags. One concern, as with textile
manufacturers, is how the report will be used as a basis for taking action. Eric Autor, the
Washington-based National Retail Federation’s international trade expert, sees it as a “fairly
objective report” that addresses the benefits of trade with China, as well as some of the problems.
He says retailers agree China should live up to its international obligations, and stronger
enforcement of US and international trade laws is called for where that is not happening. However,
he added, actions should not be taken unless they are appropriate and address real solutions to
problems.


Senators Delay Legislation On Chinese Currency

Steam appears to be running out of
the congressional effort to slap punitive tariffs on Chinese imports to help offset what many see
as an unfair trade practice resulting from China’s currency manipulation. Sens. Lindsey Graham,
R-S.C., and Charles Schumer, D-N.Y., have introduced legislation that would impose a 27.5-percent
duty on Chinese imports, and they originally set a deadline of March 31 to pursue the legislation
if China did not correct its currency imbalance. Following a trip to Beijing in March, the senators
agreed to postpone action on the legislation until September 29 to give China more time to act on
the currency issue. They said discussions during the visit indicated China may make some moves to
correct the problem.

Last July, the Bank of China announced a 2-percent adjustment in the currency rate, in a
move that was quickly denounced by US manufacturers as “woefully inadequate.” They contend the
currency manipulation amounts to as much as a 40-percent subsidy on China’s imports entering the
United States. Upon his return from Beijing, Graham said currency revaluations made since the
introduction of his legislation are steps in the right direction, and he does not believe they
represent total reform. “My message to the Chinese was the status quo is devastating to American
manufacturers, and they need to embrace reform over time, allowing their currency to float,” he
said. “The small progress we have seen needs to continue. I’m willing to abandon the need for
tariffs if the Chinese embark on real reform, and we are not there yet.”

While the Schumer-Graham bill received 67 votes on a procedural vote last April, it has
generally been viewed simply as a threat to get some action out of the Chinese, as it does not have
a realistic chance of being enacted. The Bush administration is flatly against it, and it very
likely would be illegal under rules of the World Trade Organization (WTO). Meanwhile, the
Washington-based China Currency Coalition — an alliance of industry, agriculture and labor
organizations including textile manufacturers — is pursuing the issue on several fronts. While
continuing to support the Schumer-Graham actions, it sees legislation in the House of
Representatives as a more practical approach to solving the problem. H.R. 1498, introduced by Reps.
Tim Ryan, D-Ohio, and Duncan Hunter, R-Calif., would define currency manipulation as an illegal
trade practice and would allow the United States to levy countervailing duties on products from
offending nations, particularly China. Up to this point, the Department of Commerce had held that
it could not initiate investigations against nonmarket economies — something that has been a source
of great frustration for US textile manufacturers.


Trade Liberalization Negotiations Are In Trouble

Everyone knew it was not going to be easy. These things never are. Big countries line up against
the small ones. Politically powerful farmers want to protect their interests, labor unions are
concerned about job losses and seek to improve working conditions in less developed countries, and
battle lines are drawn between free traders and protectionists. How you get 145 countries big and
small with diverse interests to agree on anything is a tremendous job.

Today, that is the case with the Doha Round of WTO trade liberalization negotiations, and
some people are saying the talks not only are in trouble, they could fail. The powerful chairman of
the House of Representatives Ways and Means Committee recently said “irreconcilable differences”
between the United States and Europe have scuttled the talks. Other trade authorities in Washington
admit the talks are in trouble, but they are not prepared to say they are dead.

For US textile manufacturers and importers of textiles and apparel, the demise of the talks
would be a major problem.

In order to jump-start the negotiations, outgoing USTR Rob Portman has stated the United
States is prepared to take new initiatives and “move aggressively” on tariff reductions. Importers
of textiles and apparel strongly support tariff reductions, as they believe a duty-free, quota-free
world would provide them with greater flexibility in sourcing products at the best prices and in
the time frames needed. While US textile manufacturers have been wary of tariff reductions, at this
point they seem to be willing to take their chances if they can get what they see as a much bigger
prize — a permanent safeguard mechanism that would allow quotas to be imposed on products for which
it can be demonstrated there is market disruption or a threat of market disruption.

The departure of Portman as USTR has further complicated the picture. He has received high
marks both at home and abroad. He had developed sound relationships with his counterparts
throughout, and he had a good working relationship with members of Congress.

His successor and former deputy, Susan C. Schwab, has considerable experience in dealing with
world trade issues, but it remains to be seen how well she can fill Portman’s shoes.

Looking at all of the tough issues that need to be resolved and the uncertain road ahead,
Eric Autor, the Washington-based National Retail Federation’s international trade expert, warned, “
[I]f there is no [Doha] Round, no one gets what they want.”


May/June 2006

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