The Rupp Report: Physiological Apparel – Still Going Strong

Over the summer, the Rupp Report will take a look at functional fabrics and sports apparel, which continue to be very important sectors of the textile industry, from fibers to ready-made apparel. This first report will take a look at the beginnings and the evolution of so-called physiological apparel.
 
The 2014 soccer World Cup in Brazil is over. In many regions of the world, family life is starting to go back to a more normal way. For more than a month, TV stations around the world broadcasted fascinating sport with strikers that always looked perfectly good thanks to their modern sportswear. How come the outfits look better than the players after 90 or 120 minutes of a tough game?
 
Physical activities are certainly a way to compensate for the daily stress. Since Olivia Newton-John’s song “Physical” debuted in 1981, a real body consciousness has evolved. The leisure industry followed this trend, and the development of modern sports equipment culminated in new products. In parallel, the textile industry realized a big chance to move away from manufacturing traditional garments toward modern textiles.
 
Physiological Apparel
As with every product, a precise specification list is a prerequisite for a perfect product. Now, the term “physiological apparel” has been coined. What does this mean? The word “physiology” refers to the study of the function of living organisms. Therefore, apparel physiology is the study of interactions that take place between the body and the apparel. It should provide information about the physiological characteristics of the apparel.
 
The Right Functions
Physiologically correct apparel includes the proper function of apparel during the performance of physical activity. It is influenced by the correct interaction of the following:
 

  • fiber material;
  • spinning, weaving or knitting technology;
  • density, thickness and weight of the fabric;
  • dyeing;
  • finishing;
  • cut; and
  • apparel technology.

 
In general, physiological apparel is based on the interaction of three components in the so-called triangle of Body – Climate – Apparel. The body, the surrounding climate and the apparel make up a system of mutual interdependence. The body and the environment are given. Only the apparel is changed according to the activity of the wearer. An example: Everyone knows that one wears “warm” dresses in winter and “light and airy” dresses in summer. Now, if the person enters a shopping mall in winter, the positive effect turns into a negative situation: with all the warm textiles around the body, the wearer gets hot. That’s already a very simple example of physiological apparel.
 
Body Temperature — A Key Point
Why does this unpleasant feeling occur? The human body has an operating temperature of some 98.6°F, and the body wants to maintain this temperature. During certain activities, such as sports, the body temperature increases. By secretion of sweat, the body cools back down to its normal temperature. Sweat will generate water vapor, and this vapor can’t be discharged to the outside through the many layers of apparel. The result is a virtual greenhouse effect, and the wearer feels uncomfortable. In this admittedly dramatic example, it is clear to see that the right apparel is the key to wellbeing. It’s not the heat itself that causes difficulties for the human body; it is the unpleasant sensation of heat.
 
Body Moisture
This sweat secretion process provokes probably the most important requirement of apparel, and of functional sportswear in particular: the removal of body moisture. Body moisture must be able to immediately wick away from the skin to the outside of the apparel. In a dry situation, many fiber materials are capable of removing body moisture. However, the problem starts with the body sweat: natural fibers soak it up, the fabric gets wet, the body starts to feel chilly and the sweat can’t evaporate through the fibers, which are virtually adhered to the body. To avoid this uncomfortable situation, there is only one solution: to use water-repellent or hydrophobic, man-made fibers. That’s why physiological apparel mainly involves using man-made fibers.
 
The Right Apparel
However, there are different situations — everything changes according to the respective activity. It is always the sweat that influences the human wellbeing. Everyone has apparel in which he feels better, and therefore the feeling is more comfortable than in other products. So to develop physiological apparel is not that easy. Today, after athleticwear, everyday apparel is the most important field of activity for apparel physiologists. If every garment manufacturer would apply this knowledge to its products, there would be no apparel in which one “doesn’t feel well.”
 
However, every textile professional knows that such an expectation is not realistic. There is a broad spectrum of virtually perfect apparel, and pleasant wearing comfort is a main consideration. Even bedding manufacturers take these considerations very seriously into account, for example, particularly for hospital linens. The reasons for doing so are many: the range of possible combinations of fibers, material and equipment is seemingly endless. Today, the creation of modern apparel and technical textiles is no longer the job of a tailor, but of an engineer. In order to develop optimal apparel for all living and environmental conditions, scientific methods are needed. In the last 25 to 30 years, apparel physiologists have developed these methods successfully and have continuously improved them. But is it really possible to measure comfort? This seems unlikely, but to a certain extent, it is possible today.
 
Research
Various institutions and the man-made fiber industry have been working for many years on requirements for physiologically correct apparel. The methods have been refined over the past few years, and it is now possible to simulate the behavior and the mechanism of the human body. There are many institutes and organizations around the world that support the textile industry in its endeavor. However, one must be careful to select the right partner, which should be an independent — probably state-owned — institute, or a department of a polytechnic school.
 
The Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (EMPA) is an example for such an independent institute. It is situated as a domain of the Swiss Federal Institutes of Technology, ETH. The aim is to develop materials and systems for the protection and optimal performance of the human body. EMPA claims that its Body Simulation Systems (BSS) develop and run the most advanced physiological measurement systems worldwide; and that, thanks to a human-like apparatus, BSS can simulate human thermoregulation and study the coupled heat and mass transport through multilayer apparel combinations.
 
In the next report of this series, the Rupp Report will look at the functions and requirements for physiological apparel.
 
Have Your Say
The sector of functional and smart fabrics is very big. If you, dear reader, have some experience in this field, please let us know your thoughts. Have your say and write to jrupp@textileworld.com.
 
July 15, 2014
 

Bayer MaterialScience Debuts INSQIN™ Solution For PU Coated Fabrics

Germany-based Bayer MaterialScience now offers INSQIN™, a sustainable technology for producing polyurethane (PU) coated fabrics without using solvents. According to the company, brand owners now have access to “an integrated package of pure waterborne PU technology, material co-development and a certified manufacturer partner program for PU coated fabrics.”

PU leather and other PU coated fabrics are used to make shoes, bags and apparel. Bayer has set up pilot lines at laboratories in China and Germany, enabling brand owners to work with Bayer technicians and use the INSQIN technology in the design and development of new products with improved environmental performance

“Not only are we now able to join efforts with brand owners to shape a more productive innovation process, we are also contributing a practical solution that addresses the ongoing battle between sustainability and scalability,” said Nicholas Smith, global head of textile coating, Bayer MaterialScience. “Our hope is that by interacting directly with brands as well as with manufacturers, we can reshape material innovation in the apparel and footwear industry. We are committed to reducing harmful effects on people and the environment, by enabling manufacturing that eliminates worker exposure to solvents and lowers resource consumption.”

INSQIN’s solvent-less manufacturing technology will be especially beneficial at Chinese PU fabric manufacturing sites, the company reports, noting that 90 percent of the 4 billion-plus square meters of PU leather produced annually is made in China, and there are concerns about worker exposure to solvents as well as the pollution of local ecosystems. In addition to requiring no solvent, the technology reduces coating process water consumption by up to 95 percent and energy consumption by up to 50 percent, according to Bayer.

Through its INSQIN Partner Manufacturer Program, Bayer will help manufacturers cut water and energy consumption as well as safely manage chemicals. The company will maintain an INSQIN partner list of manufacturers that comply with its standards for applying the technology.

July 15, 2014

Odlo Adopts Lectra Modaris® 3D

PARIS — July 15, 2014 – Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using soft materials—fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials—is pleased to announce that Odlo is implementing Lectra Modaris® growth in the sportswear market.

Established in 1946 in Norway, and a Swiss company since 1986, Odlo is the European leader in sports underwear and is known for their technological innovation in this field. In addition to their technical sports underwear collection, Odlo produce specialized clothing for running, cycling, cross-country and outdoor wear for adults and children.

They produce two collections per year in each category and are present in 20 markets. Odlo’s goal is to increase their market share in the sports outerwear market by developing versatile sportswear to the same standard as their underwear, but that can be worn as fashion items. “We want to be perceived not only as a sports underwear brand, but also as a supplier of fashionable sports outerwear,” declares Ulrike Froitzheim, Head of Quality Management and 3D Project Manager.

Odlo’s challenge is to maintain their reputation for comfort, quality and performance while delivering more fashionable collections at a faster pace. Working with technical materials and sport-specific fit presents unique challenges that Odlo also has to consider. “The unique fit requirements of a sports garment need to be respected, as well as demands for sun protection, breathability, elasticity, and resistance to water and wind,” explains Ulrike Froitzheim. “The pattern for a pair of bike shorts, for example, is designed specifically to support the athlete in a seated position.”

Lectra Modaris 3D’s ability to respond to unique fabric and fit challenges made it a natural choice for Odlo. Styles are visible onscreen and modifications can be done immediately and shared visually, contributing to better communication between different teams, including design, product development, product marketing, management and sales. “Not everyone can interpret 2D sketches in order to understand the final product; 3D gives us a way to visualize the product,” says Ulrike Froitzheim. “Better communication and better understanding will help us make better decisions.”

Pattern complexity and special fabrics make sportswear prototypes very expensive. Odlo hopes to cut development costs and lead-time by reducing the number of prototypes they produce. Improved product visualization before physical prototypes are available will also help Odlo make earlier, more accurate estimations. “We have to reduce our development time and make better decisions, and earlier. So we decided to start a 3D project,” adds Ulrike Froitzheim.

“Our motto is ‘one step ahead’. In our opinion, Lectra is one step ahead with their 3D solution and will support us to achieve our goals, once we integrate 3D into our development process,” concludes Ulrike Froitzheim.

Posted July 15, 2014

Source: Lectra
 

ITMF: World Yarn Output Up But Fabric Output Down In Q1/2014

ZURICH, Switzerland — July 9, 2014 —Global yarn production increased in Q1/2014 compared to the last quarter in 2013 due to higher output in Asia, North America, and Europe, and despite a drop in South America. On an annual basis yarn production increased as well even though output levels were lower in South and North America. Worldwide yarn stocks decreased slightly in comparison to the previous quarter as a result of lower inventories in South America and Europe. Year-on-year global stocks jumped with higher stock levels in Asia and Europe and despite lower ones in South America. Yarn orders in Europe and Brazil were up in Q1/2014. Compared to last year’s quarter yarn orders were lower in Europe and in Brazil.
 
Global fabric production was down in Q1/2014 as a consequence of lower fabric production in Asia with South America and Europe recording higher output levels. Year-on-year world fabric production decreased slightly with Asia’s output having shrunk and Europe’s and South America’s having grown. Worldwide fabric stocks were lower in Q1/2014 with South and North America recording lower stock levels and despite higher ones in Asia and Europe. On an annual basis fabric stocks fell as well as a result of decreasing stocks in South America and despite higher stocks in Asia, North America and Europe. Fabric orders rose in Q1/2014 both in Europe and Brazil. Also in comparison to last year’s first quarter fabric orders were up in Europe and Brazil.

Estimates for yarn production for Q2/2014 are positive in Asia and North America, unchanged in South America but negative in Europe. Estimates for fabric production for Q2/2014 are positive in Asia and Europe and unchanged in South America.
 
The outlook for yarn production for Q3/2014 is positive in Asia and unchanged in Europe. The outlook for fabric production for Q3/2014 is positive in Asia and Europe.
 
In comparison to the last quarter in 2013 global yarn production increased in Q1/2014 by +10.0% due to higher output levels in Asia (+11.0%), North America (+3.2%) and Europe (+0.5%) and in spite of a drop in South America (-8.2%). In comparison to Q1/2013 global yarn output had increased as well (+3.3%) with production in Asia and Europe up by +4.0% and +3.0%, respectively, while a decline was recorded in South and North America (-16.8% and -1.7%, respectively).
 
In comparison with the previous quarter world fabric production fell in Q1/2014 by -11.6% as a result of a reduction in Asia (-14.3%) and despite higher output levels in South America (+11.0%) and Europe (+2.9%). Year-on-year fabric production worldwide decreased slightly by -0.6% which could be attributed to a decrease in Asia (-1.2%) that could not be offset by increases in Europe (+4.0%) and South America (+1.0%).

 
Global yarn inventories fell slightly (-0.8%) in Q1/2014 as a result of reduced stocks in South America (-8.0%) and Europe (-0.6%) while stocks in Asia were unchanged. On an annual basis, global yarn stocks jumped by +11.1% due to higher inventory levels in Asia (+14.4%) and Europe (+6.9%).
 
Global fabric stocks in Q1/2014 fell by -1.0%. In South America they declined by -4.1%, while Europe and Asia recorded increases of +2.0% and +0.1%, respectively. In comparison to last year’s quarter global fabric stocks decreased as well as result of lower tocks in South America (-11.8%) and despite higher inventories in Europe (+2.2%), North America (+0.9%) and Asia (+0.4%).
 
In Q1/2014 yarn orders jumped by +21.8% in Brazil and by +1.0% in Europe. Compared to last year’s quarter yarn orders were down in Europe (-4.2%) and in Brazil (-0.5%).

In Q1/2014 fabric orders increased both in Brazil and Europe by +6.9% and +5.1%, respectively. Also on an annual basis fabric orders rose by +13.5% in Brazil and by +6.6% in Europe.

Posted July 15, 2014

Source: ITMF
 

Kaeser Expands International Headquarters In Coburg, Germany

COBURG, Germany — July 15, 2014 — Kaeser Kompressoren SE, the international headquarters of Kaeser Compressors, Inc., has broken ground on a major expansion at its main location in Coburg, Germany.
 
The newly planned facilities will primarily serve to manufacture the company’s industry-leading rotary screw compressors and feature the latest in energy saving and sustainable design practices. Construction is scheduled to be completed in June 2016. When complete, the new facilities will add over 200,000 square-feet of manufacturing space.
 
“With this expansion, our goal is to continue to build superior quality products that represent the best in engineering and innovation,” explained company CEO Thomas Kaeser.
 
This news follows the recent announcement that Kaeser Compressors, Inc. made regarding the additional 50,000 square-feet they plan to add to their facility located in Fredericksburg, Virginia.

Posted July 15, 2014

Source: Kaeser Kompressoren
 

INDA Announces “Pure Opportunity” At The Filtration® 2014 International Conference & Exposition

CARY, N.C. — July 10, 2014 — INDA announces the Filtration® 2014 International Conference & Exposition will be held at the Baltimore Convention Center in Baltimore, Md. Nov. 18-20 and will focus on nonwoven media for air and liquid filtration. The conference and expo will highlight industry-leading presentations, filtration educational training, face-to-face business meetings and showcase new products on the exposition floor. The “Pure Opportunity” theme of the event builds on the purification function of filter media and the healthy 4 percent annual growth rate of this important business sector which accounts for $6 billion in end-use sales.

The conference portion of the Filtration 2014 features preeminent speakers that will spotlight the advancements in technology and applications; the issues surrounding healthy, safe air quality and how it can be improved; human health; and a special focus on nanotechnology. A few of the highlights of the conference program are:

  • “The Long View: The Future of Filtration,” Behnam Pourdeyhimi, Ph.D., The Nonwovens Institute
  • “Use of Air Filtration Systems to Reduce Risk of Swine Viruses,” Montserrat Torremorell, DVM, Ph.D., University of Minnesota
  • “Towards Sustainable Nanotechnology: Opportunities and Challenges with Engineered Nanoparticles,” Georgios A. Sotiriou, Ph.D., Harvard University
  • “Evaluating and Controlling Exposures to Nanoparticles: The Role of Filtration – Research and Application Studies,” Charles L. Geraci, Ph.D., National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH)
  • “Health Effects of Nanoparticles,” Joseph D. Brain, Ph.D., Harvard University

A new feature for FILTRATION 2014 is the co-location of INDA’s Nonwoven Filter Media Training Course prior to the exposition, all day on Nov. 18 and Nov. 19, Wednesday morning. Led by Christine Sun, Ph.D., Principal, Textile Research Associates, this training course presents an opportunity to discover the principles of filtration, market and technology trends, technologies, products, test standards, unmet needs, and the growing potential of filter media products.

Concurrently, the National Air Filtration Association will present the NAFA Air Tutorial, Nov. 18, Tuesday morning, and will cover the following topics:

  • “Technology of Clean Air: How Do Filters Remove Micro-contaminants from the Environment?,” Chris Zaker, Glasfloss Industries
  • “Air Filter Application and Best Practice,” Stephen Nicholas, Air Industries, Inc.
  • “Air Filtration Applications for Health and the Indoor Environment,” Jim Rosenthal, Allergy Clean Environments

Dave Rousse, INDA’s President, said, “The addition of INDA’s Nonwoven Filter Media Training Course and the NAFA Air Tutorial to the 2014 Filtration Conference & Exposition enables attendees to optimize their travel spend. It demonstrates INDA’s commitment to bringing together in one place high- quality content to advance the success of filtration professionals.

Filtration is a key growth sector within nonwovens and Filtration 2014 continues to be the major event of the year for this important market.”

For full details on the conference program and the exposition, or to register for Filtration 2014 or the Nonwovens Filter Media Training Course, visit inda.org/events/filt14.

Posted July 15, 2014

Source: INDA
 

Outlast Debuts Spherix PCM Filling Material

Outlast Technologies LLC, Golden, Colo., has introduced Spherix phase change material (PCM) temperature-regulating filling — a fiber ball fiber blend comprising 30-percent PCM short cut viscose fiber and 70-percent standard polyester balls. According to the company, the fiber balls contribute lightness, volume and loft to the filling, while the PCM viscose fibers contribute the temperature management function.
 
“We are working with a highly filled PCM viscose fiber,” said Martin Bentz, managing director of Germany-based Outlast Europe GmbH. “With 7 dtex the diameter of the viscose fiber is quite high, so we can reach approximately four times higher performance levels compared to our standard PCM viscose fiber.”
 
Outlast reports the new filling is soft and breathable, and is especially suitable for summer outerwear and quilted jackets, in which it provides comfortable, lightweight temperature regulation.
 
July 8, 2014
 

HeiQ Introduces Identity By HeiQ For Outdoor Apparel Industry

Switzerland-based HeiQ Materials AG, a manufacturer of high-performance sustainable textile finishes, has released Identity by HeiQ — a smartphone application developed specifically for the outdoor apparel industry. The application utilizes serial numbers combined into a unique quick response (QR) code. When scanned, the QR code provides information — such as origin, consumer label certifications, manufacturing technician and date produced — on all components of a garment specified by the brand. According to HeiQ, a brand now can offer consumers full product accountability and authenticity from fiber to point of sale.
 
July 8, 2014
 
 

Südwolle Group Opens First U.S. Location

Germany-based Südwolle Group, a pure wool and wool-blend worsted spun yarn manufacturer, has announced it will open an 18,000-square-foot distribution center in Mount Airy, N.C. The center, Südwolle’s first operation in the U.S., will open in mid-July. The company selected the location for its proximity to manufacturers of legwear and circular knit fabrics, which are two of its key markets. The area also provides Südwolle with convenient access to other textile, apparel and legwear manufacturers in the South and Midwest, and along the East Coast.
 
“The U.S. market for wool yarns is critical for us and continues to grow in importance as consumers demand more premium wool products. Through our new facility in Mount Airy, we can respond even more effectively to our customers here in the U.S.,” said Hans von Schuh, managing director, sales, Südwolle Group. “The City of Mount Airy has been most welcoming. We look forward to being a part of the vibrant community there for many, many years.”
 
July 8, 2014
 

Karl Mayer Opens Its First Factory In India

OBERTSHAUSEN, Germany — July 4, 2014 — India is an important market for KARL MAYER. This traditional textile country is currently the second most important sales region for its Warp Preparation Business Unit. In some sectors, such as direct beaming and sizing machines, KARL MAYER has a market share of more than 90%.

Also KARL MAYER’s Warp Knitting Business Unit is increasingly successful in India. The Business Unit achieved roughly 4% of its machine revenue in India in 2013. Since the end of 2010, there has been strong growth in the warp knitting industry, and this Obertshausen-based company is way ahead in this field. Roughly 80% of all tricot and raschel machines in India are manufactured by KARL MAYER.

KARL MAYER is recognising the increasing significance of India for its business by increasing its presence there. The service subsidiary, KARL MAYER India Private Ltd., was set up as early as 2009. The company’s own training facility, the KARL MAYER Academy India, was opened in June 2012. Now KARL MAYER has set up its first processing, i.e. assembly, facilities in Ahmedabad. This new factory belongs to KARL MAYER India Private Ltd.
 
A strategy of small steps
KARL MAYER’s site is located in Ahmedabad and covers an area of 3,700 m2, of which 2,100 m2 are taken up by the assembly hall.

For now here are assembled the creels used most frequently for warp preparation in India. If this slow start was a success, then capacity could gradually be expanded further. The aim was to build other types of creel step by step for India, and to obtain the necessary components as far as possible from domestic suppliers.
To ensure that the assembly work is of the highest quality, experienced local service technicians were trained to be responsible for quality assurance – a strategy that has already been successful in China. Between 12 and 14 workers were taken for the start of the new assembly operations.

“If we are really successful here, we can offer our customers all the advantages of local production, i.e. short delivery times, customer-specific solutions and favourable acquisition costs, without any of the tax disadvantages associated with imports.” said the project leader, Alexander Kistner.

Opening of the facility with great ceremony
A celebration was held on 27 May to mark the opening of the KARL MAYER factory in India. Representatives from the company and its local agent, A.T.E., took part in the celebrations. Official visitors from KARL MAYER’s top management included the CEO, Arno Gärtner, the head of the Warp Preparation Business Unit, Roland Kohn, and Jochen Schmidt, head of Technical Textiles, Kevin Socha and Milind Mirkar – the managing director and general manager of KARL MAYER India – and head of the Warp Knitting Business Unit, Oliver Mathews. Also included in the special celebrations were representatives from A.T.E., the managing director, Anuj Bhagwati and the director, Gurudas V. Aras.

The newly developed DS EC2 machine was also premiered at the opening celebrations, amid great ceremony. The opening and inauguration event included traditional ceremonies, such as the saying of prayers, the burning of incense sticks, gifts of flowers to the god, Ganesh, dances in traditional costume and the cracking of a coconut shell. And of course, Arno Gärtner, cut the red ribbon.
 
Outlook on further activities
These opening celebrations on a smaller scale will be followed by an open house event for KARL MAYER customer at the end of April 2015. In this respect, it is planned to present a warping machine, a wider MJ model as well as some tricot machines. Moreover, by end of December 2014 the KARL MAYER Academy India will move from Surat to Ahmedabad. By concentrating the service activities KARL MAYER hopes to achieve a lot of synergies. The participants in the training courses can see for themselves and be convinced by the quality of KARL MAYER’s location in India and they can have a look at the machines produced there. On the other hand, KARL MAYER benefits from the proximity to its customers.

Posted July 8, 2014

Source: Karl Mayer
 

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