Chomarat North America, Anderson, S.C., is building an additional 58,500-square-foot plant in South
Carolina for manufacturing advanced composites. The facility is expected to come on-line in
mid-2014, and will be fully equipped with new machinery — including a LIBA Max5 100-inch
variable-width machine that will be used to produce C-PLY™ spread-tow carbon multiaxial
reinforcements.
November/December 2013
Parkdale Mills Inc., Gastonia, N.C., is investing $85 million to expand its spinning facilty in
Rabun Gap, Ga., and add 210 jobs.
Parkdale acquired the Rabun Gap site from HanesBrands Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C., in 2009.
The 750,000-square-foot facility houses two plants that spin 100-percent cotton yarn for use in
T-shirts and high-end activewear. The company will convert production in one plant to
polyester/cotton blended yarn for use in performancewear.
The expansion will take place in two phases, with approximately half of the total jobs added
in the first phase and half in the second phase. Parkdale will begin installing equipment in early
2014, and expects the expansion to be completed by the end of 2014.
Parkdale operates 25 plants in the United States, Colombia and Mexico.
November/December 2013
Lang Ligon & Co. Inc., Greenville, has added weaving preparation, sectional warping and related
equipment from Spain-based COMSAT to the product lines it offers its customers in the United States
and Canada.
The company recently sold COMSAT UNI EVO sectional warpers to synthetic heat-resistant
textiles maker Norfab Corp., Norristown, Pa.; and Twitchell Corp., Dothan, Ala., a manufacturer of
outdoor furniture, awning and shade, industrial and other fabrics, vinyl extrusions and coatings.
The computer-controlled UNI warpers feature an automatic advance determination system and can
process materials including cut or continuous fibers with or without twist, in addition to glass,
plastic and other materials.
November/December 2013
Schlafhorst, a business unit of Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG, has received an order from
China-based Linqing Huaxing Textile Co. Ltd. for 99 ZinserImpact 71 compact spinning machines with
a total of 118,800 spindles and CoWeMat 396 F automatic doffer systems; 16 ZinserSpeed 5M roving
frames; and 28 Autoconer X5, Type D automatic winding machines.
ZinserImpact 71, marketed to the Asian textile industry, features self-cleaning Impact FX
compact technology and offers high productivity, reliability and quality, according to Schlafhorst.
Linqing Huaxing spins up to 34,000 metric tons of combed cotton compact yarn per year for
knitted and woven home-textile and apparel fabrics.
November/December 2013
Goulston Technologies Inc., Monroe, N.C. — a manufacturer of spin finishes and other specialty
chemicals for man-made fiber, nonwovens and downstream production — is investing $8 million to
expand its manufacturing facility and install additional highly automated processing equipment and
add seven to ten workers.
Goulston exports some 50 percent of its product to customers in more than 40 countries.
Production in the expanded area is projected to begin in the fourth quarter of 2014.
November/December 2013
Ensuring the quality of goods produced in a textile plant will always be of utmost importance to manufacturers, especially in today’s globally competitive market. To be sure, off-quality goods can cause problems in downstream manufacturing processes. And making sure today’s ever-savvy consumer is happy with the quality of finished goods and encouraging repeat business is always a challenge for brands and their suppliers. Fortunately, many technology companies are updating and creating new testing equipment to help manufacturers efficiently and consistently produce first-quality goods throughout the supply chain.
Yarn Production
Germany-based Textechno H. Stein GmbH & Co. KG recently introduced its Covatest capacitive evenness tester to the U.S. market through its distributor Measured Solutions Inc., Greenville. The Cova-test is suitable for sliver, roving and spun-yarn testing and has an optional Hairiness Module. The instrument uses capacitive measuring to analyze the mass irregularity along a sample and generates a mass spectrogram. The Hairiness Module features a modern optical sensor that uses laser illumination.
The company reports the tester’s simple Windows-based software and fully automatic operation make it easy to use. All numerical and statistical data are stored in a structured query language (SQL) database for further evaluation, and the Covatest can generate graphic output including diagrams of mass variation per unit length and hairness variation per unit length; and spectrograms, histograms and coefficient of variation CV(L) curves for mass variation and hairiness.
Switzerland-based Rothschild Instruments, also represented by Measured Solutions, recently introduced the Electronic Yarn R-3000 tensiometer – an updated version of its R-2000 instrument, featuring all the well-known features of its predecessor along with some notable improvements. According to the company, a new touch screen makes handling and testing the yarn easier than ever, and a new wireless version will be available in early 2014. Features include: digital and analog readings; two tension channels; simultaneous dual tension measurements; 10- to 1,200-second time base options with graphic displays on the instrument; high-precision measuring without yarn deflection during measurement; and a short 300-hertz response time for all short peak time tensions to be recorded. Rothschild reports the machine offers an accuracy of ±2 percent in its measuring range of 0.01-200,000 centinewtons. The machine’s measuring heads allow a variety of yarns to be tested including natural fiber as well as textured, monofilament, industrial, glass, carbon and other man-made fiber yarns.
At the recent ShanghaiTex 2013 exhibition in Shanghai, Switzerland-based Loepfe highlighted its Loepfe Yarnmaster® Zenit FP yarn clearer featuring the optional LabPack SFI/D off-standard bobbin detection concept. According to the company, LabPack enables 100 percent of production to be monitored and managed – in key areas such as hairiness, neps, CV irregularity and the imperfection index (IPI) – 100 percent of the time. Loepfe reports that the Yarnmaster Zenit is suitable for specialty and effect yarns such as core, slub and multitwist yarns in addition to standard yarn types. The Yarnmaster also features three dedicated sensors – one optical sensor to detect neps, short thick, long thick and thin places (NSLT) faults; a second optical sensor to look for colored foreign matter; and a triboelectric sensor that is able to detect white and transparent synthetic fibers.
Downstream Testing
X-Rite Inc., Grand Rapids, Mich., has introduced the Ci6x line of handheld spectrophotometers for color measurement of materials including textiles, automotive, packaging, plastics and paints. The company reports the tools provide improved color control for materials, in-process parts and finished goods, along with an audit trail for facilities that operate multiple sites. The spectrophotometers are NetProfiler 3.0-enabled, ensuring that the instruments are calibrated to a single centerline standard and that color measurements taken across the supply chain are accurate and reliable. NetProfiler also allows users to share, validate and audit data across multiple devices. In addition, the Ci64UV model offers ultraviolet (UV) illumination and is suitable for measuring textiles and other materials containing optical brightening agents.
Israel-based Elbit Vision Systems Ltd. (EVS) recently introduced C-Belt, an inspection system for narrow safety belts such as automotive seatbelts, safety harnessing for fire and rescue, and safety tie-downs for transportation. C-BELT detects, identifies and labels common manufacturing defects on both sides of a safety belt. According to EVS, its multi-angle viewing lines are able to detect all visible defects including ends out, broken picks, misspicks, loopy selvage, loose filament, spots, stains, holes, mono-tail slubs, bulges, dip-ins and knots. The full-color, automated inspection system works in conjunction with EVS’s online Optimization & Cut control system.
SDL Atlas, Rock Hill, S.C., has modified its Automatic Gas Controller (AGC) to meet new criteria in the recently revised ASTM International D6413/D6413M Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles. The test methods are used to determine vertical afterflame time, afterglow time and char length. The modification addresses the distance between the solenoid valve and burner to ensure the flame does not linger beyond the termination of the test.
The AGC is featured on SDL Atlas’ Vertical Flammability Chamber and the Atlas HVUL2 Horizontal Vertical Flame Chamber. All new equipment is supplied with the new AGC, and companies with existing equipment may request a solenoid retrofit kit to easily convert their machines.
James H. Heal & Co. Ltd., United Kingdom, recently introduced the TruFade lightfastness tester and the GyroWash2 washing and dry cleaning colorfastness tester.
According to Heal, TruFade’s design and software package both are innovative and easy to operate. The machine, made from aircraft-grade aluminium components, houses nine triangular test specimen holders that allow for up to 27 specimens to be tested simultaneously, offering an exposure area totaling 1,640 square centimeters. The software was designed with touch-screen controls similar to those for a smartphone; and can track lamp and filter life, and fading progress. Other features include: an easy-access water chamber; auto-stop function; and a wide-opening test chamber for easy sample loading and unloading.
“The entire design process has been based on how customers use the instrument and on striving to make testing as simple as possible,” said Craig Taylor, test materials manager, James H. Heal. “We carry out extensive testing ourselves during product development to emulate the testing process and typical environmental conditions. This gives you the reassurance you need to be sure that this instrument will perform in line with relevant lightfastness testing standards.”
GyroWash2 is available as a single-bath eight- or 20-position model, and each position can hold a small or a large test vessel. The company designed a new zero-force “insert and rotate” mechanism for simple vessel loading and unloading. An intuitive UniController with auto start function makes it easy for a novice to perform tests to ISO and AATCC standards, the company reports.
November/December 2013
Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C.; the National Cotton Council of America, Memphis, Tenn., and its
export promotion arm Cotton Council International; and Cotton Australia have established the Cotton
LEADS™ program to raise awareness of the responsible cotton production practices among growers in
the United States and Australia, which produce some 17 percent of the world’s cotton supply.
Targeted to brands, retailers and manufacturers that want to use responsibly and transparently
produced cotton, the program touts U.S. and Australian advancements vis-à-vis water and soil
conservation, pest management, land use and biodiversity practices, reduced carbon footprint, and
traceability.
“Cotton producers in Australia and the U.S. pioneered practices that have resulted in
impressive country-wide environmental gains,” said Adam Kay, CEO, Cotton Australia. “Both countries
approach improvement on a national level. This includes national reporting and regulatory
enforcement, but also facilitates the national implementation of best practices and the ability to
collect data on a national level.”
“Apparel brands, retailers, and manufacturers require large volumes and a reliable supply of
responsibly produced fiber, as well as proof of responsible production,” said Berrye Worsham,
president and CEO, Cotton Incorporated. “Through Cotton LEADS we demonstrate how cotton grown in
the United States and Australia can help meet these requirements.”
The program is based on five core principles: commitment to social, environmental, economic
and regulatory considerations related to world-class cotton production; recognition of the need for
ongoing improvement, investment, research and sharing of best practices information among growers
and industry; understanding of the importance of collaboration with various programs to foster
responsible, sustainable cotton practices; belief in the benefits of cooperation with similar
programs to ensure cotton’s competitiveness in global fiber markets; and confidence in a cotton
identification system that ensures traceability across the supply chain.
November/December 2013
Following the unprecedented spike and collapse in global cotton prices almost three years ago, market participants from producers to consumers to policy makers are still coming to grips with the fallout. Although technical and fundamental factors still impact the market, their effects have been more muted than in the past. Instead, policy dynamics now overshadow traditional considerations and may continue to loom over the market well into 2014.
A Cacophony Of Trumpets …
Several evolving fundamental factors are pushing and pulling the market to and fro. On the supply side, as the Northern Hemisphere harvest approaches its conclusion, speculation is rife over differing production forecasts. Reports in recent weeks of generally favorable harvest weather across the American cotton belt are pitted against concern that after a dry spring, more acres may have been abandoned than earlier expected. Just the opposite is occurring in India, as prospects for a record harvest have improved over recent months. The heavy monsoon and recent rains are expected to increase yields and production there, but late-season rains have delayed cotton arrivals. Evolving sentiments for perhaps larger or perhaps smaller crops in different markets compete for the market’s fickle attention.
Click here to view Figure 1 in a new window.
Similarly, on the demand side, various issues across the global textile supply chain continue to jockey for prominence. Even though the largest spinner in the world – China – expects to produce a record volume of yarn in 2013, man-made fibers rather than cotton are the underlying winners. Rapid gains in Chinese cotton yarn imports are supporting foreign spinners including Thailand, the Indian subcontinent, America, and elsewhere. And while prospects for Indian cotton mill demand are not as upbeat as they were a few months ago, the country still expects to spin an unprecedented volume this marketing year. Similarly, the 2013-14 record cotton consumption outlook for markets like Vietnam and Bangladesh still appears underestimated.
Further downstream, offsetting drivers at the fabric, apparel and retail stages do little to elucidate the outlook for cotton prices. While China is set to produce and export a record volume of cotton cloth this year, U.S. cotton fabric exports are on track to fade to a 20-year low in 2013. At the apparel stage, improving foreign demand is driving garment output in markets like China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Turkey this year, while Honduras and the Philippines are set to produce fewer clothes. At the end of the supply chain, shoppers in retail markets like America and China are set to buy record volumes of clothing in 2013, but much of Europe remains in a persistent funk, offsetting increases elsewhere. Indeed, gradually softer growth prospects for the world economy are weighing on the outlook for global cotton mill demand.
Away from typical supply and demand fundamentals, other dissonant issues also are trumpeting for attention. The dollar is nearing a nine-month low, a factor often supportive of prices of dollar-denominated commodities like cotton. The volume of certificated stocks for delivery against Intercontinental Exchange (ICE) cotton futures is rapidly rebounding off seasonal lows and presently stands at the highest season-to-date volume in four years. And the seasonal swoon of cotton prices remains a perennial issue not to be overlooked. Indeed, myriad factors internal and external to cotton are competing to set the market’s melody.
… But Chinese Cotton Policy Resonates Worldwide
But beyond the din of these offsetting bullish and bearish trumpets clamoring for the market’s attention comes an unmistakable, resonating pitch overshadowing all others. This overtone emanates from China, and its impact permeates the global cotton market. In particular, the China National Cotton Reserves Corporation (CNCRC) has aggressively procured – and sometimes sold – sizable volumes of cotton in recent years. This mechanism to stabilize the domestic cotton market continues to impact prices and trade far beyond China.
Previously, China used its cotton reserve system merely to balance domestic supply and demand. Policy changed in early 2011, when a procurement price was introduced to stabilize price and plantings, sparing domestic farmers from the worst of the global price collapse. Unfortunately, the initial procurement price was set as global cotton prices fell from record levels. The CNCRC has had to continue to buy cotton at this price to support the market. China typically has held the most cotton for decades, but its stockpile has ballooned in recent years to record highs. The CNCRC has been unable to auction the supplies as rapidly as it has procured new volume. Estimates vary, but some sources indicate China may have some 58 million bales stockpiled, a staggering 62 percent of total global cotton inventories. This mountain of cotton is arguably the single-biggest issue facing the market.
Clearly, the procurement and auction mechanism has had far-reaching and sometimes unintended consequences. The scheme was instrumental in stopping the plunge in Chinese prices as well as world prices. As the graph in Figure 1 shows, introduction of the 2011-12 procurement process at 19,800 renminbi per metric ton (RMB/mt) coincided with the abrupt end of the plunge in futures prices both on the ICE and in China. High prices paid by the government for procured cotton also turned domestic mills against the artificially expensive Chinese cotton, causing Chinese mill demand to plummet even though yarn spinning is likely headed to a record year. Ironically, China began sourcing unprecedented volumes of cotton yarn from overseas, driving increased yarn output in a host of foreign mills. The back-and-forth combination of procurement and auction periods in China has effectively established a long-term trading range of sorts for ICE and Zhengzhou Commodity Exchange (ZCE) cotton.
Any changes to this policy are likely to resonate across the global market well into 2014. For the third autumn in a row, the Chinese government is purchasing cotton supplies from domestic growers. Since the process commenced in early September, reserve procurement has exceeded 1 million mt, but is still far off the year-ago procurement volume. The buying will add to the already-bulging state reserve.
Chinese mills remain hopeful that the reserve auction may resume soon, a process that again may return some of this excess cotton supply to the market at lower prices. Rumors are swirling of a December start with an initial auction price of 18,000 RMB/mt or less. If auction prices presumably are well below the 2012-13 average, the process could establish a much lower level of support to the global market well into 2014. Prices already are edging lower in anticipation, with both ZCE and ICE futures recently plumbing their lowest levels in months. How much additional cotton will be procured this season and any terms regarding a looming resumption of the reserve auction remain unknown for now. But the issue of the Chinese state reserve is likely to be the major driver dictating global cotton prices and trade well through this marketing year, keeping the world cotton market on edge.
Editor’s note: Gary A. Raines III is chief economist and managing editor of the Globecot News Network, now the Fibers & Textiles division of FCStone LLC, Nashville, Tenn.
November/December 2013
By Janet Bealer Rodie, Contributing Editor
There’s more to sustainability than just using eco-friendly materials and processes; conserving water, energy and other inputs; and recycling or composting. Good design; the use of high-quality, durable materials and construction; commitment to the wellbeing of workers engaged in the process; and consumer behavior and awareness regarding product care and disposal also come into play.
San Francisco-based Levi Strauss & Co.’s Dockers® Wellthread men’s apparel program incorporates all of the above considerations — all while cutting manufacturing costs and retail prices, and increasing the company’s profitability, according to Paul Dillinger, senior director of
color, concept and design, Dockers brand.
Dillinger believes constraining creativity at the start of the design process not only drives beautiful design, but also improves profitability. By limiting the number of fabrics and styles and only using a few factories that are committed to workers’ wellbeing, Levi Strauss can realize greater efficiencies and cut costs. Using processes that reduce water and energy usage also lowers costs. And the durable construction and recyclability of the Dockers Wellthread khakis, jackets and T-shirts provide extra value for the consumer.
“We’ve focused our creativity on engineering durability and real service and value for the consumer, and that kind of got lost in the fashion industry to an extent,” Dillinger said, referring to today’s constantly changing fast fashion trends. “We really want to celebrate the craftsmanship and create a market venue where durability and lasting value have a place.”
The garments feature reinforcements at stress points, stronger buttonholes and more durable pocketing. The 60/3 yarn in the twill fabric used in the collection is made with extremely long-staple cotton that is more easily recycled into virgin-quality material than are shorter
staples. Thread, pocketing and labels also are 100-percent cotton, and metal rivets, buttons and closings are easily extracted using magnets. All pieces are garment-dyed, which improves operational efficiencies, Dillinger said, “and also allows us to control all of the environmental
impact of the dye process because we have influence and visibility at the garment factory versus further out in the supply chain, where we have less control. We’re putting our label on the garment, and we want the impact to be as positive as possible.”
To encourage energy conservation and garment preservation by consumers, the company provides care instructions that recommend cold-water washing, and it has included a locker loop on the pants
so they can be hang-dried.
Dockers Wellthread’s pilot Spring 2014 collection will launch at dockers.com in mid-February.
For more information about Dockers® Wellthread, contact Kris Marubio +415-501-6709; kmarubio@levi.com; dockers.com
November/December 2013
Glen Raven Inc., Glen Raven, N.C., has promoted Glen Raven Custom Fabrics LLC President Leib Oehmig
to corporate COO as part of its long-range strategy to bolster its global operations. In his new
position, Oehmig will work with Glen Raven President and CEO Allen E. Gant Jr. and the company’s
Executive Committee to establish strategies including a leadership succession plan under which
Oehmig will become president and CEO upon Gant’s retirement in four years. At that time, Gant will
continue as chairman of the company’s Board of Directors.
Gant joined Glen Raven in 1971 and became president and CEO in 1999. He represents the third
generation of his family to lead the company, which was founded in 1880 as Altamahaw Mills. Under
his leadership, Glen Raven has expanded into Europe, Asia and South America; and its Sunbrella® and
Dickson® fabric brands have become well-established in the outdoor furniture, marine and awning
sectors.
Oehmig joined Glen Raven in 1989. He helped plan and build the company’s Sunbrella
manufacturing facility in Anderson, S.C., and served as the plant’s site manager before his
promotion to president of Glen Raven Custom Fabrics in 2009. He will be the first non-family member
to serve as Glen Raven’s president and CEO.
Dave Swers, current vice president and assistant general manager, Glen Raven Custom Fabrics,
has been promoted to president of the business unit.
November/December 2013
