Los Angeles-based Platinum Equity has acquired International Textile Group Inc. (ITG), Greensboro, N.C. The transaction saw ITG merge with a newly formed Platinum Equity affiliate and ITG will continue as the surviving corporation as a privately-held Platinum Equity portfolio company. As a consequence, ITG’s common stock no longer is traded publicly.
Platinum acquired all of ITG’s debt and equity securities previously owned by entities managed by WL Ross & Co. LLC and its affiliates.
The merger was approved by ITG’s Board of Directors following recommendations by an independent committee, as well as the company’s independent legal and financial advisors.
Kenneth T. Kunberger, ITG’s president and CEO continues in his role under the new ownership. “This is an exciting time for ITG,” Kunberger said. “We believe Platinum Equity and ITG’s goals and strategies are well aligned and provide a strong foundation on which to further leverage ITG’s performance innovations and brand heritage across our global markets. We look forward to many opportunities ahead.”
As of early November, yarn spinners report a continuation of the sluggish business conditions that have largely existed since the beginning of the year. Holiday orders were well below expectations for several spinners, and prospects for improvement seem to be somewhat slim for the immediate future.
“We haven’t seen any real significant change in our business over the last eight or nine months or so,” said one spinner. “We’ve seen little periods of activity here and there, and we thought some business was going to pick up, especially in the area of specialty yarns, but that really hasn’t materialized. Any improvement we’ve had seems to be in little spots and of brief duration, and is, obviously, related to our supplier inventories.” Said another spinner:
“As hard as it is to believe at this time of year, it seems there is still some inventory that knitters and weavers are working their way through — inventory that was purchased earlier in anticipation of limited yarn availability. As apparel items and such haven’t just flown off the shelves lately, a lot of our customers still have more inventory than they need. And they are not going to reorder until they absolutely have to.”
Slow Business Extends Beyond Borders
Business is not only slow for U.S. spinners, but is also weak for much of the Western hemisphere. “A lot of our business is in Central America,” said one spinner, “and that business has been very weak for some time. I believe excess inventory for our customers and at retail was a significant contributor to this earlier in the year, but I now think the overall issue is global instability. Brexit is an issue, as is the U.S. election. What is going on in Syria, in the Ukraine and in the South China Sea? People around the world, I believe, are just waiting for everything to get back to normal, if there is such a thing.” Another spinner said,” I don’t think the business at retail is as strong as economic conditions and consumer confidence suggest it should be, especially for textile products, and it is, clearly, not as strong as we need it to be. It’s weird when cars are selling, but clothes and towels aren’t. It seems that everything is just a bit off, and the national nervousness emerging from the election isn’t helping at all.”
Optimism On The Horizon
Despite the relatively show conditions that have persevered for much of the year, spinners remain cautiously optimistic that orders will begin to pour in shortly after the beginning of the year. “One of the things that has happened over the past decade is that demand and production capacity have roughly equalized in the United States,” said one spinner. “In fact, over the past several years, you have seen enough demand that, for the first time in nearly four decades, capacity has begun to expand. I believe, after the election and after the holidays, we will see a gradual increase in orders and that, before long, we will get back to where we have been the past few years.”
Added another spinner: “You don’t see three years of solid business just disappear for no reason. There have been numerous circumstances that have contributed, and I think, by early in the first quarter of 2017, we will see a return to normalcy.”
Cotton Prices Approach 70 Cents Per Pound
Quotations for the base quality of cotton (color 41, leaf 4, staple 34, mike 35-36 and 43-49, strength 27.0-28.9, uniformity 81.0-81.9) in the seven designated markets measured by the USDA averaged 68.08 cents per pound for the week ended Thursday, October 27, 2016. The weekly average was down from 69.47 cents the previous week and up from the 60.80 cents reported the corresponding period a year ago. Daily average quotations ranged from a low of 67.49 cents Tuesday, October 25, to a high of 68.90 cents Thursday, October 27. Spot transactions reported in the Daily Spot Cotton Quotations for the week ended October 27 totaled 16,397 bales. This compares to 18,347 bales reported the previous week and 15,647 spot transactions reported the corresponding week a year ago. Total spot transactions for the season were 78,945 bales, compared to 90,717 bales the corresponding week a year ago. The ICE December settlement prices ended the week at 69.76 cents, compared to 69.80 cents the previous week.
Dr. James A. Hayward, president and CEO, Applied DNA Sciences
Dr. James A. Hayward has more than 20 years of experience in the biotechnology, pharmaceutical, life science and consumer product industries, and currently serves as president and CEO of Stony Brook, N.Y.-based Applied DNA Sciences — a provider of DNA-based supply chain, anti-counterfeiting, authentication, genotyping and anti-theft technologies. Hayward is involved in the global effort to help assure quality and authenticity of products and protect global supply chains from mislabeling, counterfeiting and diversion. He received his Ph.D. in molecular biology from the State University of New York at Stony Brook.
Textile World: You have unique methods to determine species and the origin of cotton as well as other textiles—fiberTyping® and SigNature® T DNA. Can you explain the difference?
Hayward: Recently, one of the world’s largest cotton manufacturers, located in India, has been accused by a U.S. retailer of mislabeling products as 100-percent Egyptian Cotton.
Subsequently, a number of cotton retailers have launched formal audits of their products obtained from the same manufacturer, which now admits “a failure” about “the provenance of the fibre (sic).” Applied DNA Sciences had previously warned that brands and consumers seriously question Egyptian textile claims. In prior surveys, Applied DNA Sciences examined the genetic content of retail products labeled 100-percent Egyptian or 100-percent Pima cotton using fiberTyping — a patented DNA test to determine if a product contains Gossypium barbadense DNA — extra long staple (ELS) cotton — Gossypium hirsutum DNA — Upland cotton — or a blend of both. It is a powerful tool to help the cotton industry ensure that products that are labeled as 100-percent ELS or 100-percent Pima are compliant with label claims. FiberTyping can help diagnose if a product is blended or contains upland cotton, when it should be 100-percent Pima, but it cannot tell you exactly where it came from — such as that it was grown in the United States, for example — and by the time you test a finished product and find out it’s not pure, it’s too late to do anything about it. So the only workable solution is to tag the product itself at the source.
Trademarked as SigNature T for textiles, the core technology uses a unique molecular tag that tags cotton fibers en masse in the gin that are subsequently checked at every step of the supply chain as it is made into yarn, fabric and finished goods. In addition to SigNature T, all cotton is fiberTyped, which quantifies the native DNA within cotton fibers by species prior to ginning to ensure the original cotton species is present. It can be authenticated anywhere within the supply chain, allowing for traceability from land to brand.
A unique, uncopyable signature can be provided to each customer, batch or even lot. It is designed to have no impact on the quality or performance of the textile being marked and easily integrates with existing manufacturing processes.
TW: How do you effectively prevent blending from occurring in the supply chain for textiles? How pervasive is this problem?
Hayward: We conducted two studies across an array of goods in both home textiles and apparel. The studies showed that more than 80 percent of the items claiming to be 100-percent Pima were not.
The problem is pervasive and the industry is starting to address the issue. I believe the most effective method of preventing mislabeling in the textile industry involves being able to track and trace a specific type of material at any point along the supply chain. In the case of Pima cotton, the use of a forensic identity tag has been very effective in ensuring products labeled as 100 percent Pima.
As shown in Figure 1, once SigNature T DNA tagging was implemented — including the strict storage and labeling protocols, along with inspections and frequent DNA testing — the level of DNA compliance rose quickly to 100 percent. Data were obtained by APDN from commercial samples.
What the tag does is nothing short of amazing. It provides a means for the consumer to know where their “stuff” comes from with proof, and it turns out the grower can also know who is buying their product. In addition, tagging gives the opportunity for everyone in the supply chain to receive a fair return for producing a quality product. The certainty that is provided to the supply chain translates to a more transparent and trusted supply chain.
TW: What advantages does using DNA have?
Hayward: Our botanical-based SigNature DNA platform is proven at the highest levels because of our programs with government, law enforcement agencies as well as commercial partners in textiles, microelectronics, pharmaceuticals, to name a few partners. We have patented and proprietary systems to create an infinite quantity of unique DNA tags that cannot be copied. Some might claim they have ways to mark items; however, they are often not unique, can easily be replicated and are generally not secure.
The strength of SigNature DNA resides with the ability to be stable and compatible in a wide range of chemistries. For our crime prevention applications where stolen cash is marked with an indelible DNA-ink, we can provide forensic evidence that links the crime to the criminal right down to the date, time and location of where the cash was stolen. For textiles, we have subjected our DNA to different temperatures, pH levels, surfaces and are able to authenticate our SigNature T DNA tag from raw fiber to dyed yarns and fabrics and finished goods.
TW: While working with some of your clients, what kind of conclusions have you found as far as their product quality? Were many of the products you tested true to their label claims?
Hayward: When it comes to quality, the answer is this: if you have great raw materials or ingredients to start with, by tagging it at the source, you are protected with the knowledge that everything is now traceable to the original material.
Unfortunately, many supply chain and sourcing systems rely too heavily on a paper trail to prove origin. In the past, consistency in product quality and performance was the primary objective to sourcing, but today solutions that address traceability and proof of origin are critical to ensure quality, authenticity and sustainability within supply chains. A great example is our partnership with Techmer PM, a polymer additive and master batch colorant manufacturer. Its products are trusted and relied on by top designers and brands in the athleisure industry. Working in collaboration with Techmer, we were able to successfully SigNature T tag nylon master batch resins and authenticate the samples as they were extruded and made into finished product.
TW: Over the past year, you have seen a rapid increase in your textile/apparel sector, with shipments of millions of pounds of cotton. What’s next for the company?
Hayward: The certainty that our forensic solutions offer to supply chains extends beyond cotton to wool, cashmere, synthetics and for consumer goods as well as industrial applications. We also have seen an uptick in interest to protect specialty fabric coatings that have specific performance claims. Our clients are interested in product differentiation through innovation and this is where our technological expertise in working with different chemistries and substrates is most sought after. As we often say, certainty is only a molecule away.
January editions of Texworld USA, Apparel Sourcing USA expand educational offerings, revamp trend forums.
TW Special Report
The biannual Texworld USA — an apparel sourcing event for buyers, research and product development specialists, designers, merchandisers and overseas sourcing professionals organized by Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Inc. — will convene at the Javits Convention Center in New York City January 23-25, 2017, for three days of sourcing, seminars and networking. According to show organizer, Texworld USA offers attendees “the opportunity to meet directly with a wide range of manufacturers from Asia, the Middle East, North America and from many other regions from around the globe.” The show is produced in partnership with Austria-based Lenzing, and builds on the success of Innovation Asia and a sister Texworld show held in Paris.
The show is collocated with Apparel Sourcing USA, an event designed to offer apparel brands, retailers, wholesalers and independent design firms a dedicated sourcing marketplace for finding the best domestic and international apparel manufacturers. According to Messe Frankfurt, Apparel Sourcing is the only event on the East Coast to focus on sourcing finished apparel, contract manufacturing and private label development.
Educational Offerings, Featured Pavilions
In addition to the show floor dedicated to exhibitors, a complimentary seminar program and trend forum will again be available to attendees. According to Messe Frankfurt, the educational sessions are one of the biggest draws for attendees at Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA, so the offerings will be expanded out to the show floor in January.
Intimate sessions will serve as more casual discussion opportunities between peers on a variety of topics important to the textile and apparel design industries. The new educational forum also will host “Performance Pitches” that give select exhibitors in the functional apparel and fabrics category the opportunity to pitch the capability of their mill and/or products.
“Along with our educational programs getting a face-lift, we are revamping the feel of our trend forums for both Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA,” said Jennifer Bacon, show director. “We will still have a general inspiration area featuring fabrics from our exhibitors, but in addition, Texworld’s Art Directors, Gregory Lamaud and Louis Gerin, are working to design a new showcase combining both fabric and apparel around the theme of our winter edition: functional and performance fabrics.”
Texworld USA will feature pavilions from Lenzing Innovation, as well as from Korea, Taiwan and Turkey. As in the past, Lenzing Innovation will host 17 exhibitors focused on incorporating sustainable fibers into a wide range of product categories.
Messe Frankfurt also announced that for the first time in the January edition’s history, Apparel Sourcing USA will host a Mexican Pavilion featuring exhibitors from the state of Jalisco that specialize in a variety of cut-and-sew products.
There is no registration fee for qualified trade show visitors. Messe Frankfurt recommends that attendees preregister online, but it also is possible to register on-site using a business card and photo identification. The show is open January 23 and 24 from 10:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m., and from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. on January 25.
For more information about Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA, please visit texworldusa.com and apparelsourcingshow.com
Attendance figures at recent IFAI Expo rivaled only by attendance at the 2012 Boston edition of the event.
By Rachael S. Davis, Managing Editor
IFAI Expo 2016 recently closed the doors on a successful edition held at the Charlotte Convention Center, Charlotte, N.C. According to show organizer, the Roseville, Minn.-based Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI), expo attendance of 5,023 visitors was a near-record for the event, surpassed only by attendance at the event held in Boston in 2012 when the association celebrated its 100th anniversary. Over four days, the event offered participants educational opportunities, product demonstrations, exhibits, certification options and networking moments all tailored to people working in the specialty fabrics, advanced textiles, and shade and weather industries. Keynote speeches were given by business ethics expert Chuck Gallagher, author and marketing executive Linda Kaplan Thaler, and former Walt Disney World customer service master Dennis Snow.
Awards And Recognitions
IFAI’s retooled ShowStopper program highlighted new products of interest, while the International Achievement Awards (IAA) recognized design excellence and technical skill in specialty fabrics.
The 2016 ShowStoppers winners, chosen from 78 entries from 43 different companies, were:
Toronto-based Thomson Research Associates in the chemicals, coatings and compounds category for Ultra-Fresh DM-25;
Jacksonville, Fla.-based Fenetex® Retractable Screens in the end-product category for its Adjustable Tracks for Rectractable Vinyl Screen;
Grass Valley, Calif.-based Autometrix Inc. in the category of equipment and tools for its CadShot Mobile;
Hillside, N.J.-based Engineered Polymer Technologies (EPT) in the fabrics, fibers and films category for its ethylene interpolymer alloy/ketone ethylene ester (EIA/KEE) Geomembrane-Coated Fabric;
Marietta, Ga.-based YKK (U.S.A.) in hardware, findings and accessories for its Electromagnetic Shield Zipper; and
Ligonier, Ind.-based Hohenstein Institute of America in the category for services to manufacturers for its research, development, testing and certification services.
The IAA winners — judged on complexity, design, workmanship, uniqueness and function — were selected from a total of 296 entries from 10 countries in 42 categories. Recipients included:
Fabric Structures — Shanghai-based Shanghai Taiyo Kogyo Co. Ltd. for the Xiangtan BBG Shopping Mall ethylene tetrafluoroethylene (ETFE) Skylight;
Awnings and Canopies — Shanghai-based Covertex Membranes (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. for the Abdali Mall ETFE canopies;
Fabric Environments — Tukwila, Wash.-based Rainier Industries Ltd. for NHL hockey pucks;
Marine — Riviera Beach, Fla.-based Canvas Designers Inc. for the Caryali custom sofa;
Tents — Memphis, Tenn.-based Mahaffey Fabric Structures for Dining Under the Stars;
Geosynthetics — Pendergrass, Ga.-based TenCate Geosynthetics Americas for the erosion repair underneath the Gatun Locks of the Panama Canal;
Advanced Textiles — Pittsfield, N.H.-based Globe Mfg. Co. for the Globe ATHLETIX™ Turnout Gear.
IFAI tripled the number of campfire sessions that were held on the show floor for the 2016 edition of IFAI Expo
The Industrial Fabrics Foundation (IFF) announced South Africa-based Gelvenor Textile as the winner of the 2016 IFF Innovation Award for its VulAmanz Rural Water Filter. Gelvenor engineered a woven polyester microfiltration fabric that removes colloidal contaminants and dangerous bacteria from unsafe water. The fabric is suitable for both water purification and wastewater treatment applications. Used in a household water treatment unit, the filter will help provide clean drinking water without the use of chemical treatments to rural households that do not have electricity. Bloomfield Hills, Mich.-based The Crypton Companies received an honorable mention for its Crypton® Revl™ topcoat chemistry for polyvinyl chloride.
In addition, IFAI’s Fabric Structures Association awarded the 2016 Fabric Structures Student Design Challenge first place award to Pedro Ortiz and Christian Scungio from Roger Williams University for their Top of the Canopy project. The second place winner was John Wightman from the University of Buffalo for his Aqua Shell project. Third place was awarded to Omar Fabrisio Avellaneda and Paula Martin Goni from the Universitat Politecnica De Catalunya Barcelona Tech for their Spider Circus project.
IFAI hosted an opening-night reception for exhibitors and attendees at the NASCAR Hall of Fame.
Exhibitor, Attendee Feedback Positive
Despite a glitch during registration on the opening day of the exhibit halls that delayed many attendees hitting the show floor, feedback from expo participants was good.
“There seemed to be more smaller to mid-sized companies with emerging technologies at IFAI Expo than in the past, so innovation in the industry seems to be moving along in a positive direction,” said Ed Gregor, Edward C. Gregor & Associates LLC, Indian Land, S.C. “I saw many companies working in niche areas, which was very interesting. In addition, there certainly was greater participation from companies in the Advanced Textiles area. IFAI has obviously been working hard to create a more balanced Expo between the Advanced Textiles area and its historical focus on awnings and protective coated fabrics.”
Monte Sharp, president, Grant’s Pass, Ore.-based Sharp’s Tarps, was at IFAI Expo for the 32nd consecutive edition. “It’s a good opportunity to mix with our suppliers, a good time to rub shoulders with others in the industry,” Sharp said. “Expo helps us to stay on top of technology … it was a very good show overall.”
“The IFAI show provides APV an essential platform for expanding our VYNGUARD brand presence to a very targeted group, said Erin Brown-Neff, director of marketing and business development, APV Engineered Coatings, Akron, Ohio. “From a business development and client relations standpoint, this show was a successful strategic initiative for us.”
“We found the IFAI exhibition to be an excellent forum to not only introduce our new SUR-fex® brand, but to also highlight our strong base competencies of producing, converting and lamination of a wide range of foam rubber materials,” said Alan Fenno, market development manager, coatings, Rubberlite Inc., Huntington, W.Va. “A forum such as IFAI is viewed as an excellent resource to remain actively involved in the industry and we plan to continue to participate in future events.”
“We couldn’t be happier with this year’s expo,” said Mary Hennessy, president and CEO, IFAI. “Interest in the event has rarely been higher and that’s proven by a record-setting number of exhibitors and huge interest in the event from the industry at large.”
IFAI Expo 2017 is schedule to take place September 26-29,2017, in New Orleans.
Click here to view additional photographs from the event.
The last Synthetic Yarn and “Fiber” Association (SYFA) Fall Conference took place September 29-30, 2016, at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel in Charlotte, N.C. During the meeting, association President Roger Crossfield announced that the SYFA board voted to change the name of the organization to the Synthetic Yarn and “Fabrics” Association. According to SYFA, “The new name reflects the expanded supply chain and broadens the reach of the membership base to appeal to a wider audience beyond fibers and yarns.” Additionally, the simple, but meaningful, name change allows the association to continue to be known by the same SYFA acronym.
The organization was previously known as the Textured Yarn Association of America until 2006 when it changed its name to the Synthetic Yarn and Fiber Association. Core members of the SYFA include fiber producers, texturizers, staple yarn manufacturers and fabric producers. Raw material suppliers, equipment manufacturers and textile industry service providers also play a significant role in the SYFA and make valuable contributions to the organization.
The recent fall conference was titled, “Diverse Elements Of The U.S. Supply Chain … Leaders In Action.” Attendees heard from 10 speakers covering a variety of topics of interest to the industry. The keynote presentation was delivered by Randi Kronthal-Sacco, chief marketing officer, Pure Renewables LLC. Other topics covered at the conference included: “The Death of Research in the Chemical and Fiber Industry: What We Can Do About It;” “Revolutionary Fibers and Textiles Manufacturing Innovation Institute;” “Where Do We Go From Here? The Customer’s Request;” and “The Economics of North American Shale Oil and Gas.”
Sponsors for the fall conference included Gold Sponsor Premiere Fibers Inc.; Silver Sponsor Pulcra Chemicals LLC; Bronze Sponsors Burlington, DAK Americas LLC, PolySpinTex Inc. and Techtextil North America; and Patrons and Exhibitors sponsors 4M Plants S.r.l., American Fiber Manufacturers Association, DuBose Strapping Inc., Goulston Technologies Inc., Industrial Fabrics Association International, Milliken & Company, National Council of Textile Organizations, O’Mara Inc., Unifi Manufacturing Inc. and William Barnet & Son LLC.
The next SYFA Conference will take place April 27-28, 2017.
During the opening ceremony, members of CITEX Puebla – Tlaxcala and the National Association of Textile Entrepreneurs met with the press to discuss the scope and objectives of Exintex 2016.
The 20th edition of Exintex carried the motto, “Mexico lives the textile experience.”
By Dr. Virgilio L. González, Latin America Correspondent, Textiles Panamericanos
Held at the Exhibition Center of Puebla, in the area called Los Fuertes, Mexico, October 18-21, Exintex 2016 exceeded expectations, with more than 800 exhibitors occupying more than 28,000 square meters of exhibition space. The trade show is establishing itself as one of the most important textile fairs in Mexico focusing on the latest in technology and machinery for textiles and fashion.
José Antonio Gonzalez Quijano, president, Camara de la Industria Textil Puebla-Tlaxcala (CITEX), Miguel Brito García Teruel, as well as important people from local government, business executives and Mexican organizations, opened the event October 18. During speeches the executives emphasized the need to make Mexico’s textile products more competitive, by, among several options, using established international commercial alliances.
During the event, more than 3,000 meetings between national and international exhibitors and buyers took place, looking to achieve the goal of expanding sourcing for the textile and clothing sector.
Exintex 2016 exhibitors included manufacturers of textile machinery and materials from countries such as Germany, Spain, Italy, France, Switzerland, Turkey, China, Korea, Japan, India, Argentina, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia and Peru, among other countries. The main items exhibited were fibers, fabrics, printed fabrics, finished goods, machinery, textiles and clothing, inputs for the different sectors, complete packages, spare parts, solutions and miscellaneous services and technical textiles.
Seminars
For the large number of attendees at EXINTEX, seminars were on offer. Researchers and executives who actually have investigated and revolutionized the different areas of the textile chain, shared important experiences. Sessions included:
“Innovation and the Market Criteria” presented by Ricardo Perret, Mind Code;
“Developments in Textile Printing” presented by Jorgen Lindahl, SPGPrints
“The Color in Your Favor” presented by Carmina Iturriaga, Color Kits;
“Sustainability in the Textile Industry” presented by Alona Starostenko, Universidad de las Americas Puebla;
“Dying Without Water” presented by Saul Arboleda, Satex Ltda;
“Digital Technology Applied in Textile Sublimation” presented by Jorge Camacho, Epson;
“Materials Testing — Expertise, Safety and Performance Certifications” presented by Valério Izquierdo, CTT Group;
“Evolution and Treatments of Denim” presented by Franco Zaccaria, Tonello S.r.l.;
“Blue Technology — A View to the Future” presented by Rolando Sierra, Jeanologia;
“The Environmental Cycle of Cotton” presented by Jaime Flores, Cotton Incorporated;
“Evolution of Textile Art” presented by Nadia Albertini, an embroidery and fashion designer; and
“Business Model of Fast Fashion” presented by Lourdes Pérez of [TC]2 Mexico.
EXINTEX featured fashion shows that highlighted the latest clothing, fabrics and colors. On display was a mixture of local styles and the latest international fashions. The fashion shows highlighted the work of Denisse Kuri, SGA (Virtus/Motion Pro), Children of our Town, Lydia Lavin, Mallimo Atelier, Aida Walls, Moda Incluyente/Isabella Springmuhl, Adriel Cervantes, José Farelas, IBERO Santa Fe, Hilario México and Juan Manuel Bautista.
Without doubt, EXINTEX 2016 was the perfect stage for buyers and sellers to carry out business. Mexican and foreign visitors significantly contributed to the reported increase in participation. EXINTEX will return to Puebla in 2018.
(left to right): Hans Joachim Menzel, his son Alexander and Honorary Consul of the Federal Republic of Germany Dr. Clemens Schmitz-Justen. Photographs courtesy of AGE K Media LLC
Menzel recently marked its milestone with a feast and unveiled a recent building renovation
TW Special Report
According to Hans Joachim Menzel, current owner of Spartanburg-based Menzel LP, a chance meeting with Roger Milliken at a trade show in Atlantic City prompted his father, the late Gerhard “Gerd” Menzel, to open a manufacturing facility in Spartanburg in 1965. “Mr. Milliken bought all of my father’s equipment, but said he would have to come to Spartanburg to pick up the check,” said Menzel. “When [my father] came to get [the check], he fell in love with the location between Greenville and Charlotte and decided to set up his plant there.” Hans Menzel praised his father for his wisdom in choosing Spartanburg for its U.S. location along the county’s industrial corridor of Business Interstate 85. The company has its roots with Germany-based Karl Menzel Maschinenfabrik GmbH & Co., which was established in 1925 by Gerd’s father Karl Menzel.
Initially manufacturing textile web equipment, including the time-saving Menzel A-frame — a material handling system that allows manufacturers to wind large rolls of fabric onto fixed cores using portable carriages — today the company has grown its product range to include machinery for a variety of finishing, dyeing and printing ranges. Menzel’s equipment is suitable for fabrics, nonwovens, foils, glass fabrics and plastics.
The company recently celebrated the 50th anniversary of its U.S.-based operation with a feast for its customers, friends and 55 employees, many of whom have worked for the company for more than 30 years.
The building in Spartanburg, which has doubled in size three times since it was first established, recently was renovated to provide much-needed light to the office area. Visitors to the anniversary celebration had the chance to tour the facility to view the upgraded office space.
Whether climbing Mount Everest or scaling a rock wall at the local gym, running a marathon or chasing a toddler on the playground, skiing in the Swiss Alps or building an imaginary fortress out of freshly fallen snow, consumers expect their clothing to offer more than just a protective barrier against the elements. They expect performance.
Modern performance textiles have changed the way people interact with the outdoors, enabling them to scale the tallest mountains, run long distances in all seasons and even circumnavigate the world on a bicycle. But even for those with less lofty athletic ambitions, performance wear has become the new T-shirt and jeans. Sales of athletic apparel continue to grow, driven by cultural factors including a focus on fitness and active lifestyles, a growing interest in sports and a preference for clothing that is high performance yet also comfortable and fashionable.
“Today’s consumers expect so much from the products they buy,” said Gary Smith, CEO of Polartec®, a premium producer of innovative textile solutions that eventually find a home in waterproof running shoes, moisture-wicking base layers and warm, breathable jackets that allow freedom of movement. “Achieving versatility in textiles is a relentless pursuit, but that’s what drives us to keep innovating.”
Polartec prides itself on solving “problems you don’t even know you have” through innovative textile development. Throughout the company’s history — from its beginnings as a knitter of wool fabrics for the United States military, to its current position as a leading producer of performance wear textiles — Polartec has been a problem-solver, an innovator and an inventor of textile technology that has literally changed the world.
In the late 1970s, the founder of Patagonia approached Polartec’s predecessor, Malden Mills, to help refine Patagonia’s synthetic alpine sweater. Though lofty, lightweight and quick-drying, the sweater was also scratchy, itchy and uncomfortable. The two companies collaborated and the resulting invention — synthetic fleece, also known as “polar fleece” – was named one of Time magazine’s top 100 inventions of the 20th century, right between the zipper and sliced bread.
“The textile industry is a smart industry. We have scientists, engineers, chemists, knit technicians and many others who are constantly pushing the limits of fiber and textile technology to solve a whole range of problems,” Smith said. “If we couldn’t wear clothes, everyone who lives in a cold climate would have to migrate south every winter. At Polartec, we are constantly working to create the most innovative, adaptable and versatile textiles that meet the needs of our multitasking, jet-setting culture.”
To innovate is to create something new, and the development of new technologies is where Polartec thrives. One of the company’s latest innovations is a product called Polartec Alpha®. Originally developed for the United States Special Forces as an advanced insulating material for combat uniforms, the fabric uses technology that regulates body temperatures during both dynamic and static activities, eliminating the need to shed or add layers while on the move.
“With Polartec Alpha, we invented a whole new category of performance wear that we call ‘active insulation,’” Smith said. “Historically, insulation was always viewed as a static product. It was great for watching a football game or standing in line for the ski lift — not aerobic activity. This technology is being used in garments designed for start-stop activities like running and cycling, where you need a range of comfort levels.”
Innovation in apparel is inextricably linked to the textile itself. But prior to the 1970s, the performance wear category had little to offer. Polartec’s innovations in waterproof, breathable, durable, moisture-wicking, active stretch and insulating textiles led to incredible growth of industries and brands founded on performance wear technology.
“We often take it for granted that what we are wearing is technology,” Smith said. “Ninety percent of the value of a garment is embedded in the textile itself. You can’t take a bad textile and make a great garment.”
That’s why the world’s leading brands such as Nike, Patagonia, The North Face, Adidas and many more, turn to Polartec fabric technologies to improve the performance of their garments. And the future of the performance textiles industry is rosy. Millennials — the largest demographic — are driving steady growth in the athletic apparel industry.
“We are always trying to find ways to bring more benefits to the consumer through our innovations, but every time we think we’ve done something great, we realize there’s so much further to go,” Smith said. “As long as we have basic human needs to stay warm and dry, we will have to keep innovating.”
Editor’s Note: This article appears in Textile World courtesy of the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) as part of the “American Textiles: We Make Amazing™” campaign. NCTO is a trade association representing U.S. textile manufacturing. Please visit ncto.org to learn more about NCTO, the industry and the campaign.
