Botanic Fibers Offer Sustainable Solutions

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LENZING™ Lyocell is both biodegradable and compostable. Photographs © Lenzing/Grebe

Austria-based Lenzing Group is capitalizing on its fiber knowledge as it seeks inventive applications for its sustainable fibers.

By Marina Crnoja-Cosic

Lenzing Group, a producer of high quality, botanic, cellulose fibers, has worked to expand its 80 years of experience creating sustainable textiles fibers to other markets. The Austria-based company established a stand-alone business unit to focus on inventive applications for its sustainable fiber technologies to new industries. The department of industrial applications has identified several areas of interest including footwear, technical textiles, technical nonwovens, packaging and filtration. However, agricultural applications are showing particular promise for reducing plastic use without sacrificing the performance farmers must have for successful operations. Botanic fibers also offer benefits in food applications.

“The agriculture industry is coming under scrutiny by consumers, regulators, and NGOs [non-governmental organizations] for its plastic waste generation,” said Marina Crnoja-Cosic head of the business unit. “The industry puts out about 5 million metric tons of plastic waste a year with approximately 60 percent of that waste going into our oceans.” In light of those figures, many agriculture industry leaders and governments, particularly in Europe and North America, are looking for change.

Plastic use in agriculture extends from the farm to the grocery store. Farmers use disposable products like films, twine, rope, packaging, and other items, most of which are currently made out of plastic with the vast majority trashed after the first use. Plastic is used extensively in consumer packaging for agricultural products as well. Nets, bags, labels, films, and other packaging elements are routinely made out of plastic. In addition to concerns about plastic waste, consumers increasingly are worried about harmful chemicals in food packaging, especially with the corresponding growth of interest in organic and other sustainable food sources. The combination of these consumer issues suggests that botanic options can offer solutions on many fronts.

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LENZING™ packaging materials can include biodegradable food nets.

A Viable Botanic Solution

LENZING™ Lyocell fibers based on wood offer tremendous promise in agricultural applications. The fiber’s sustainability profile is well-known. First, the raw material is wood harvested from responsibly managed and renewable forests. Next, the Lenzing Lyocell fibers are produced in a proprietary closed loop manufacturing process that is water and energy efficient and boasts almost 100-percent solvent recovery and recycling. In fact, this special manufacturing technique has earned Lenzing the “European Award for the Environment” from the European Commission.

The natural origins and responsible manufacturing methods combine to make the fiber extremely attractive for sustainable agriculture. Lenzing Lyocell fibers deliver on the industry’s stringent performance requirements as well. The fibers are known across the textile industry for their tenacity. As an option to the other choices agricultural operations have, ropes and twines made out of Lenzing Lyocell fibers can deliver similar performance to the plastic-based product.

Most importantly for agriculture’s plastics issue, the Lenzing fiber is 100-percent biodegradable. That means that if agricultural products made using Lenzing Lyocell fibers end up in the trash, they will break down into harmless chemical components in a fairly short amount of time. And, perhaps more importantly, Lenzing Lyocell fibers have been proven to be 100-percent biodegradable in seawater as well. That’s even better news for the planet and can reduce the burden that agricultural waste imposes on the oceanic ecosystem.

More good news about Lenzing’s Lyocell fibers is that they are 100-percent compostable. Instead of trashing the fiber materials after use, farmers may compost and convert them through natural processes into beneficial materials that will nourish the soil. Because the fiber is made from wood, a renewable raw material, and is sustainably manufactured, it decomposes without depositing harmful chemicals into the ecosystem.

Raise A Stein To Botanic Fibers

Hops farming perfectly showcases the multi-level value a strong, yet compostable, fiber like Lenzing Lyocell can bring to the agriculture market. Hops, a grain cherished by beer lovers, requires steel supports for the hops plants. After the grain is harvested, these steel supports must be separated from the hops plant stalks and thrown away. They are not reusable.

When the steel supports are replaced with products based on Lenzing Lyocell fibers, many benefits are gained. Tests show equal performance with regards to holding up the plants effectively throughout the growing cycle. However, after harvest, the fiber supports simply are composted with the plant stalks. Labor costs to separate the steel supports from the plant stalks are eliminated; landfill burden caused by disposing of the steel supports is removed; time is saved; more enriching compost, a valuable asset for a farmer, is generated; and not to mention that breweries targeting today’s sustainability-minded consumers will have a great story to enrich their marketing campaigns.

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LENZING™ for Agriculture offers sustainable and viable options.

From Land To Sea To Shelf

The benefits of botanic fibers for agriculture on land are evident and the fiber also may find use in aquatic applications. The inherent strength makes it an ideal fiber for net structures for shellfish farming. Lenzing has tested mussel nets and socks made using Lenzing Lyocell fibers with great success and these botanic nets currently are in use in the Adriatic Sea.

Sustainability advantages in aquatic farming are evident when the netting is housed in the oceanic ecosystem. If pieces of the nets break off, they harmlessly will decompose rather than building up in the ocean. The fiber is strong enough to withstand the long mussel growth season and provides a reliable infrastructure on which the shellfish can thrive. The new nets also stand up to the mechanical rigors of harvesting and processing. After harvesting and processing, the nets can be composted to close the sustainability loop. If they are just discarded instead, botanic nets will biodegrade in seawater or in soil.

The botanic fibers are exceedingly pure and free of potentially harmful chemical contaminants. They are tested according to stringent European Union criteria for materials that come into contact with food. Therefore, they can be used without concern in a wide variety of food applications, which includes food packaging. Net bags made using Lenzing botanic fibers provide clean, sustainable packaging that meets all performance criteria. Lenzing for packaging completes a sustainability statement for farmers trying to present their produce, fruit and vegetables, or other foodstuffs to consumers as healthier, cleaner, or more environmentally responsible.

Lenzing is looking at other opportunities to replace plastic with botanic fibers in agriculture and packaging. Mulches, trellises, and other packaging applications are in the product development hopper. “Farmers need help with plastics reduction now,” Crnoja-Cosic said. “Farmers are coming under pressure from consumers, regulators, and food retailers to improve the sustainability of their operations and comply with the emerging demands for circular economy in all markets.’

Future Developments

While Lenzing has borrowed extensively from its textile heritage to develop botanic innovations for the agriculture market, the company’s new business unit also intends to close the loop back to technical textiles and industrial applications. “We are just beginning to develop the extensive opportunities to work with the agriculture industry to improve farming sustainability, reduce the burdens plastic use places on landfills and oceans, and to offer consumers more botanic options,” Crnoja-Cosic said. “The knowledge we gain from agriculture will help us expand applications for technical textiles as well.”

Technical textiles obviously are a market where wood-based fibers from Lenzing can deliver the same functional performance as plastic without the environmental negatives. Currently, Lenzing is evaluating additional promising applications where sustainability meets demanding technical performance criteria required for coated fabrics, filters and even thermoplastic reinforcement and composite materials. Footwear offers exciting opportunities and is addressed in Lenzing’s sole-to-lace commitment to finding botanic fiber solutions for shoes.

Botanic fibers can offer a sustainable choice without sacrificing technical performance for many industries that currently rely heavily on plastics. Made using renewable raw materials, manufactured in a resource-considerate, closed-loop process, and fully biodegradable in soil and seawater, botanic fibers like Lenzing fibers can help companies address the increasing calls-to-action from consumers, NGOs, governments and market leaders.

“Lenzing has shown that botanic fibers provide a highly effective and sustainable option, and we are eager to partner with companies who want to make the switch to environmentally considerate materials,” concluded Crnoja-Cosic.

Disclaimer: LENZING™ is a trademark of Lenzing AG

March/April 2018

Modular Coating Options For Today’s Market

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A modern coating range with an integrated Monforts texCoat unit installed in Germany.

Monforts coating and finishing technology provides advanced textile manufacturers flexibility to successfully negotiate diverse markets.

By Jürgen Hanel

Technical textiles are extremely diverse in their end-use applications and manufacturers can be called upon to quickly produce a succession of materials with widely differing properties and performance applications – often within a single shift.

For customers of Germany-based A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, these materials range from substrates for digitally-printed soft signage to carbon fabrics for today’s high-performance composites, and from filter media that must perform in extreme temperatures to flame-retardant barrier fabrics.

Then there are the heavy-duty membranes employed in the collection and storage of methane in biogas plants, as well as materials equipped with sensors and electrical conductors now used as base liners in dye-sensitized solar cells, to name just a few examples.

These very different materials, however, have one thing in common – they all require expert coating and finishing for maximum efficiency. The technology must allow ultimate flexibility and offer the ability to switch rapidly from one fabric formula to the next, without compromising on economical use of energy or raw materials.

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A Monforts texCoat coating device is in use at an Italy-based fabric manufacturer.

Modules

The introduction of the latest Monforts multifunctional coating heads for the company’s industrial texCoat and Allround coating units offer a wide range of options, with modules available for:

  • Screen printing — The coating head for rotary screen printing is suitable for woven, knitted and nonwoven fabrics, with the ability to apply single-color patterns and also achieve 3-D effects with low liquid penetration, for add-ons of between 10 and 100 grams per square meter (g/m2) and with coating formula viscosities of between 2,500 and 8,000 milliPascals (mPa). It also is highly suitable for patterning denim.
  • Magnetic roller coating — With this coating head, low-penetration lacquering and pigment dyeing can be carried out, to add functional coatings to fabrics with add-ons of between 10 and 80 g/m2 and within the viscosity range of 1,000 to 6,000 mPa. Again, woven, knitted and nonwoven fabrics equally can be successfully treated.
  • Knife coating — Is suitable for the one-sided application of foams to coated fabrics in order to seal against water, other liquids and gases; or alternatively for the addition of breathable coatings. Foam lamination and coatings for fashion items also can be applied using the knife method. Foam coating is particularly suitable for the production of highly effective blackout fabrics.

Two separate modules are available for knife coating:

  • A knife system for coating viscosities of between 3,500 and 12,000 mPa and add-ons of between 10 and 150 g/m2. A coating speed of up to 50 meters per minute (m/min) is achievable with this head.
  • A roller knife coating head for working with coating viscosities of between 3,000 and 35,000 mPa and a wide add-on range of between 20 and 1,500 g/m2. Depending on the material and coating, high speeds of up to 120 m/min are possible with this unit.

The texCoat module can be integrated into new lines or retrofitted into existing ones, while the Allround is a complete system designed to be integrated into a complete Monforts finishing range.

The acquisition of Austria-based Timatec and the integration of its range into the Monforts portfolio has further strengthened the company’s position in respect to coating technology.

The company is the only manufacturer that can offer completely integrated coating lines from a single source and the coating machine is tailored to the subsequent Monforts drying technology — with all the benefits resulting from a fully integrated programmable logic controller.

Monforts’ system has the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the tenter and the company offers all variations of coating application systems as well. All of these options are available in wider widths, with the engineering and manufacturing from a single source in Europe.

Because of its company structure, former Timatec units were sold only in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Today, the company has new references in Turkey, Mexico, India, Pakistan and other markets.

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The Web-UI app enables machine process parameters to be monitored on handheld devices.

Quick Changes

On the Allround, the modular coating heads can be quickly and easily changed via a specially-designed undercarriage from the side of the unit, allowing it to be readily adapted for different applications.

The Montex Allround consists of a load cell, a spreading unit and a pulling device along with the selected coating head. It allows for tension-free coating of the substrate along a greatly-reduced web path and a very short period of “open” coating prior to the substrate entering the dryer to ensure a significantly reduced chance of contamination. The shortest possible distance between the coating head and the tenter infeed ensures the highest quality coating results.

Further special modules for powder scattering and spraying also are available and the unit can be enclosed with a special casing to handle fabrics treated with organic, or even toxic, solvents.

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Monforts Qualitex 800 offers process visualization with touch screen control and dashboard functions

Organic Solvents

There has been a wariness around handling organic solvents, but in the end, they’re not as difficult to coat on textile substrates as they are on plastic films where they already are widely used, and these solvents offer possibilities for companies to explore and develop entirely new products, especially in fields such as medical and filtration.

Nevertheless, they do require a highly-controlled and contained environment, and this was a key consideration when the technical textiles line available for trials at the Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) at Monforts’ headquarters was constructed.

The line incorporates a Montex 8000 four-chamber, horizontal chain tenter and is fitted with an explosion-proof coating application chamber.

Every single component within the chamber has to meet the standards of the European Union’s ATEX directives for working in an explosive atmosphere. A range of sensors linked to alarms operate at various levels within the chamber to ensure the specified lower explosion limit is never exceeded and the ventilation adapts accordingly.

Special features on the finishing line relate to a further advanced function — the ability to treat materials not only at temperatures of up to 320°C, but also to be able to treat the top and bottom faces of certain materials at different temperatures within a single pass through the machine.

To achieve this, the first two chambers of the tenter are fitted with special, heavy duty TwinAir ventilation motors and separate burners for individual top/bottom temperatures. A temperature differential of up to 60°C can be achieved between the upper and lower nozzles within the chamber.

There are many applications where employing two separate temperature treatments is beneficial, such as floorcoverings — where the textile face fabric is treated at one temperature and the rubber backing at another — as well as polyvinyl chloride flooring that employs chemical foams, or for materials like blackout roller blinds with heavy backings.

At the same time, in the pharmaceutical industry there is a wide range of different applications for organic solvents such as antiseptic treatments that have to be treated very carefully and applied at very specific temperatures in order not to destroy their efficacy.

Other materials, such as polytetrafluoroethylene-coated filter materials also are applied and then cured at separate temperatures.

Stretching

Another key feature of the technical textiles line at Monforts’ ATC is the special stretching device capable of pulling 10 tons in length and 10 tons in width — a huge amount per square meter of fabric and necessary in the production of materials such as woven or 3-D knits for high-temperature filter media.

Three weft straighteners — each with different key strengths — have been installed by Monforts’ ATC partners Erhardt + Leimer GmbH, Mahlo GmbH & Co. KG and Pleva GmbH, all based in Germany.

This line has been engineered to provide the ultimate in precision coating finishing in order to achieve the standards required by the medical industry, and also the quality standards in place for aerospace- and automotive-grade materials.

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The Montex Allround allows for tension-free coating of the substrate along a greatly-reduced web path with a very short period of “open” coating prior to the substrate entering the dryer.

Eco Applicator

For conventional woven and knitted fabrics, the Monforts Eco Applicator as an alternative to the traditional on-wet padder has been highly successful since its introduction in 2011 — both integrated into new finishing lines and retro-fitted to existing ones.

In many textile mills globally, the cost of running integrated manufacturing lines — especially those for fabric finishing that can involve numerous sequences of heating and subsequent drying — is now eclipsing the cost of paying people to operate them.

The ability of the Eco Applicator to significantly reduce energy costs is the key reason for its rapid acceptance on the market.

The soft coating unit eliminates the need for a padder, instead employing trough and roller techniques to apply the required amount of liquid or coating to the fabric.

The unit itself does not actually save the energy, but by applying only the precise amount of functional finish, the subsequent drying time is shorter, and in some cases dramatically so.

Some Monforts customers have reported success stories of cycles that previously took an average of 160 minutes that have been reduced to just 40 minutes. Obviously, reducing the full processing time to a quarter of what it was has a significant impact on the electricity, steam and gas that is consumed.

The technology has been widely proven on woven and denim fabrics, and major knitting manufacturers now also are reaping the benefits the Eco Applicator provides.

Knitted fabrics must never be stretched and needs to be treated in a relaxed state. This is why the Montex tenter dryer with vertical chain return incorporates a TwinAir nozzle system that ensures the relaxed fabric is kept at a suitable height in between the upper and lower nozzle system, allowing for the fabric’s bowing, since it cannot be stretched.

Similarly, the Eco Applicator for knits is fitted with an advanced guidance system specially adapted to the needs of delicate treatments eliminating any possible curling of the fabric edges prior to entering the tenter.

Compared with a padder system, where the initial moisture content of the fabric entering the tenter is 60 percent, the Eco Applicator reduces moisture content to 40 percent. The system also has the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the tenter.

The Eco Applicator’s versatility also allows mills to apply finishes to just one side of the fabric, or both; and even to apply separate finishes to each side, or to specific areas of a fabric, creating endless possibilities, whether treating wovens, denim or delicate knits.

Complete Control

The instant connectivity and easy distribution of know-how is changing the face of industrial manufacturing, making the operation of complex machinery much simpler and cutting down the required training periods. At the same time, the chance of human error is reduced.

This is certainly the case with Monforts’ latest Qualitex 800 control system, which is available for the automatic and continuous operation of Montex tenters; Thermex and E-Control continuous dyeing ranges; Monfortex and Toptex shrinking systems; and Eco Applicator, texCoat and Allround coating units.

The Qualitex 800 has all the intuitive features operators will be familiar with from touchscreen smart phones and tablets to make navigation extremely easy and cut down the time required to become familiar with the system.

Operation is via touchscreen and wheel-effect selection, and the dashboard can be individually configured to meet the exact needs of an operator’s tasks.

All parameters for setting up a machine — working width, chamber temperatures, drive selections and energy settings — can be preselected to a comprehensive range of stored and well-proven recipes specific to the weight, construction and fiber content of the individual fabric being processed. The machine can then be set to “Monformatic Mode” to allow it to operate automatically, based on maximized preset values in respect to parameters such as machine speed, fabric dwell time and the fixation temperature for specific finishing operations.

A series of checks and balances has been built in for both the machine and the operator, with actual performance constantly compared to the preset values and compensatory measures introduced either automatically or by simple manual intervention. All machine parameters are stored for further evaluation and the creation of historic trend charts, and any potential problems are flagged by instant alarms for later performance analysis.

Further assistance is available via the Monforts Teleservice portal, including internet conferences with Monforts specialists in Germany and video and audio problem solving. All documentation in respect to operation, maintenance and wiring diagrams can be accessed. If necessary, the E-CAD drawings and spare parts catalogue also can be remotely consulted, and a camera can be called up at any time for remote visualization of the individual machine and its parts.

Everything is in place to help the customer maximize productivity.

March/April 2018

Dow Introduces ECOFAST™ Pure Treatment

The Dow Chemical Co. recently introduced the ECOFAST™ Pure Sustainable Textile Treatment, which enables unique, brighter colors on natural textiles as well as improves resource efficiency during dyeing, according to the company. The patented technology allows for the uptake of reactive, direct and acid dyes on natural fibers and fabrics, including fluorescent colored acid dyes for cotton. Dow reports materials treated with Ecofast Pure may be rinsed fewer times in lower temperature water during the dyeing process with a decrease in water use of up to 50 percent; and dye use may be decreased by as much as 75 percent because of the increased dye uptake and reduced cycle times. The treatment is suitable for tubular knit fabric, yarn, denim, garments and toweling.

“Dow has leveraged over a century of material science knowledge to help address the performance and sustainability gaps in the textile industry,” said Esma Talu, market manager, Dow. “By pretreating textiles with Ecofast Pure, manufacturers can deliver longer lasting, new-generation colors on natural textiles while simultaneously reducing water, dye and energy use.”

March/April 2018

Bolger & O’Hearn Launches OmniBloq

Fall River, Mass.-based Bolger & O’Hearn (B&O) recently introduced OmniBloq, a stormproof and breathable performance finish. Outdoor apparel brands recently had a sneak peek at the finish during the Meteorite Winter Adventure Camp held in Boulder. “The reception was overwhelmingly positive,” said Shaun O’Hearn, president, B&O.

“We sparked some big excitement for outdoor garment and sportswear media and manufacturers because everyone is looking for innovation while minimizing risk to brand equity. B&O is proving to be the bridge between innovation and risk management that brands need.”

According to the company, OmniBloq delivers the waterproof and breathable properties in a single-layer construction versus a multilayer product featuring fabrics, films, glues and tapes. The product is perfluorooctanoic acid-free; offers protection against water, oils and stains; and garments treated with the finish can be recycled.

March/April 2018

HanesBrands Acquires Bras N Things

Winston-Salem, N.C.-based HanesBrands reports it has completed the purchase of Bras N Things, a retailer and online seller of intimate apparel in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. The acquisition was an all-cash transaction valued at approximately $400 million on an enterprise value basis, and is expected to be accretive to earnings in 2018. The business will be managed as part of the Hanes Australasia business.

“We are very excited to add Bras N Things to our strong Hanes Australasia business unit,” said Gerald W. Evans Jr., CEO, Hanes. “With its highly effective 100-percent consumer-direct business model and strong millennial following, Bras N Things is a strategic and complementary addition to our business portfolio. In addition, we are adding seasoned management depth to our already outstanding Hanes Australasia management team.”

March/April 2018

GAP To Conserve 10 Billion Liters Of Water By 2020

San Francisco-based GAP Inc. has announced a new sustainable manufacturing goal of saving 10 billion liters of water by the end of 2020. The company reports product innovation and efficiency improvements at fabric plants and laundries are at the center of these water savings. The total of 10 billion liters is a volume equivalent to the daily drinking water need by 5 billion people. According to Gap., through company-led projects, the company already has saved more than 2.4 billion liters of water since 2014.

“Water is critical to nearly all aspects of our business, and we recognize the responsibility and the opportunity we have to reduce the amount of water used to create our products,” said Christophe Roussel, executive vice president of Global sourcing, Gap. “Leveraging the power of product innovation and improved manufacturing practices, we can help ensure that our customers not only look great in their favorite jeans and T-shirts, but also feel good about how their purchases are helping to make a positive impact for communities and helping to tackle global water scarcity.”

Gap also has committed to a 50 percent absolute reduction of greenhouse gas emissions in its owned and operated facilities globally as measured from a 2015 baseline.

March/April 2018

How Fashion Became A Digital Industry

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Leading brands and retailers are using digital tools and processes to analyze and target different regional markets rather than pursuing blanket globalization.

Big data, IoT, the platform economy and artificial intelligence promise the most profound change fashion has undergone since the dawn of large-scale manufacturing

TW Special Report

The future has arrived and the present is not so easy. Fashion is becoming a difficult business to monitor. Its regional and global markets are both hypercompetitive and ever evolving, so that brands, retailers and manufacturers are forced to make rapid-fire decisions to remain in the game. Documentation, systematization and accountability often are afterthoughts as companies rush to deliver collections from one season to the next.

While China and India’s domestic fashion markets are becoming increasingly dominant, the offshoring paradigm still stands. Nowadays, despite a burgeoning trend towards proximity sourcing, very few products are being manufactured where they were developed.

According to Jason Adams, president, Smyrna, Ga.-based Lectra North America, factors such as language barriers, time zone differences and sheer geographical distance still limit communication between offices where product orders are placed and factories where they materialize. Lectra has a broad vision of the world as a provider of integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials, and has been operating in the United States for more than 40 years.

For Adams, a lot is happening in fashion, but in a way that is too fast, too informal, and too far removed from headquarters to be visible in the traditional sense to the naked eye.

However, as brand audiences, overseas offices and supply chain partners grow further apart in the physical sense, ironically they have never been closer in digital terms.

Soon a majority of products could be digitally conceived, designed and transferred to other departments for further technical development. “From there, they will be assembled, worked on digitally by connected supply chain partners or in more advanced supply chains, manufactured by industrial robots that receive instructions sans human intervention,” Adams said. Then the products will be electronically sent, tracked, distributed, and marketed to digitally connected consumers.

Fashion now is rapidly becoming a predominantly digital industry, one where huge volumes of data, digital collaboration, online social interaction, digital marketing, and e-commerce come together to create and sell a physical product to a digital native demographic. As vital as the final product itself is, and will remain, the very near future of the industry will place a huge importance on the significant portion of its life that it spends in the digital domain.

While a shift in the production process might seem like a relatively small and manageable change in the way brands and retailers do business, this is just the tip of the iceberg. Together, the four main pillars of digitization — big data, the Internet of Things (IoT), the platform economy and artificial intelligence — promise what may prove the most profound change fashion has undergone since the dawn of large-scale manufacturing.

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The digitization of manufacturing is widely referred to as Industry 4.0, the fourth overhaul of manufacturing after lean, outsourcing and automation.

Millennials And Generation Z

Adams said supply chain digitization helps companies make significant profits and productivity gains through improved organization and production agility. This practice also enables them to achieve efficiency savings and hence meet customer expectations while enhancing business processes in other areas.

Today’s target shoppers, the famous millennials and Generation Z — whose exacting requirements and revolutionary buying behavior have left traditional retailers reeling — expect transparency.

Although price is still a major factor in their purchasing decisions, Adams noted, these conscientious consumers pay equal attention to product provenance. Brands and retailers who invest in obtaining this level of insight will be able to build and advertise codes of conduct for social compliance and sustainability, confident that there are no blind spots in their design, development and manufacturing processes.

While micro and macro trends vary from one market to another, however, deeper shifts in the competitive landscape and in consumer expectations brought about by digitization will, sooner rather than later, require retailers, brands and manufacturers to embrace the idea of fashion as a digital domain. However, what will this mean in practice?

Best Practices, Hardware Management

According to Limuel Sagadraca, vice president of Professional Services at Lectra, there are two key elements when it comes to ensuring a successful digitization process — best practices in software and in hardware management. Best software practices consist of collecting and analyzing large volumes of data to deliver actionable intelligence, opening channels of communication and collaboration between teams, and coordinating, optimizing, and automating new and existing processes throughout the product lifecycle. At the level of solutions, this might mean integrating the flow of data between supply chain management, product lifecycle management (PLM) and enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems, then analyzing this end-to-end sea of information in order to gather reliable insights for the business. For example, a large consumer packaged goods business in Europe recently began to perform analysis on its growing pool of big data covering both customers and operations, which now is powering a dynamic trend-forecasting model that has had a measurable impact on inventory turnover.

Taking this further, trend forecasting agencies now are going digital themselves, employing sophisticated deep-learning techniques to derive insights from volumes of images and other data sets that are prohibitively large or complex for humans to analyze. Crucially, e-commerce leaders already are using these cloud-based digital services and improving turnover. On the hardware front, factories that have undergone digitization will be using a combination of automation, machine-to-machine digital communication, and perhaps even 3-D printing and on-demand production. From cutters to spreaders to plotters, their machines will be able to communicate with one another. They also will be connected to monitoring and control systems and will feed data such as material consumption, cutting status, temperature and performance to a suite of solutions designed to turn this stream of information into usable intelligence.

This digitization of manufacturing is widely referred to as Industry 4.0 — the fourth overhaul of manufacturing, after lean, outsourcing and automation. In other regions, it has been dubbed smart manufacturing. While this sounds complex — justifiably so, given its scope — the essence of this fourth industrial revolution on the factory floor also can be understood in a much simpler manner. Digitizing the manufacturing process essentially means eliminating a longstanding and now unnecessary manual disconnect between products designed and developed in digital CAD, patternmaking and grading solutions then manufactured by digitally controlled machinery or robots.

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Every digitalization strategy will have one thing in common — the need for a single platform to oversee, optimize and manage newly-formed digital workflows.

Algorithms

For Sagadraca there is no single roadmap to digitization. With an almost limitless range of software, hardware and services that can theoretically be linked to form a cohesive digital workflow, the direction each business takes will be dictated by its goals and challenges. Seeking shorter lead times, some brands will embrace virtual prototyping and 3-D printing. Looking to exceed customer expectations across channels, other brands will come to rely on machine learning, applying algorithms to real-time information feeds from all of their retail channels to serve up pitch-perfect product recommendations. Aiming to improve material utilization and cut costs, yet others will connect their cutting machines to an intuitive software layer that delivers minute-to-minute technical insights to design and development teams.

Sagadraca goes on to stress that each digitization strategy is unique but they all have one thing in common — the need for a single platform to oversee, optimize and manage the newly formed digital workflows. As more software solutions, platforms and physical hardware — including products themselves, thanks to small embedded systems — become connected, the need to consolidate, manage and analyze data in a centralized location will become more acute, at the same time as the potential benefits of digitization become even more compelling. PLM has already emerged as the most capable tool for this challenge.

PLM In Fashion

Businesses should remember that not all PLM solutions are created equal. For Lectra PLM Business Consultant Karyn Wangenstein some solutions were conceived for smaller creative tasks; others were repurposed from different industries. Companies hoping to keep a podium position in the digital race and to manage the complexity of connecting potentially hundreds of different tools and technologies, should, if possible, select a solution specifically designed for the IoT and Industry 4.0, rather than settling for software that has been retrofitted to cope with a changed world.

For Wangenstein, an ideal PLM solution should have a wide functional scope that covers the entire design-to-production process. By connecting all supply chain actors, external suppliers and industry processes together, the solution helps companies fully embrace Industry 4.0, bridging the gap between the final consumer and the manufacturer. It should also have the ability to interface quickly with all other tools and IT systems such as CAD, ERP and customer relationship management (CRM), in order to ensure a continuous flow of data to help the company transition smoothly to the new digital era.

Digital Transformation

It is therefore important to recognize that digitization is likely to be an exponential journey for many businesses. The more technologies and processes they digitize, the more potential avenues for digitization present themselves under the umbrella of PLM. With this in mind, it is vital that prospective customers select a platform that is scalable. When it comes to defining the bigger picture and setting an end goal for digitization, many industries and commentators have latched onto the term “digital transformation.” That term was avoided here, because it implies a total, immediate transition when in reality digitization is an objective that can and should be achieved in increments.

Adams concludes brands, retailers, and manufacturers wishing to make the most of their move to the digital domain should borrow from the templates set by digital leaders or forge their own path, using their own unique digital drivers to define specific use cases that will deliver value today and lay the foundations for more comprehensive change tomorrow. Businesses that commit to digitization today will almost invariably reveal new insights about not just their customers, but their own internal attitudes and business models as well.

Companies that have already begun the process are showing their commitment to keeping pace with customer expectations. They, and the retailers and brands who join them today, will best be positioned to secure their place in fashion’s future as a digital domain.

March/April 2018

March/April 2018

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Switzerland- based Uster Technologies Inc. has announced a new organizational structure to take effect April 1. Anson Xu will head Uster operations and sales in China, and Andreas Tanner has been named head of sales for the rest of the world. Harold Hoke, vice president, sales and service; and Walter Kiechl, Uster’s chief officer in China, will gradually step back allowing for a seamless transition. Hoke will continue until at least March 2019 at which time, he will officially retire from the company after 37 years of service.

Mike Davies has joined the sales team at Winston-Salem, N.C.-based Adele Knits Inc. as product manager – Circular Knit Fabric.

New York City-based Material ConneXion has appointed Melanie March director of commercial strategy. She is based in San Diego.

Judith van Vliet, a designer with Switzerland-based Clariant’s ColorWorks® design and technology center, was named president of the Color Marketing Group, a not-for-profit international association of color design professionals.

New York City-based Trident Global Inc., a division of Trident Group, has named Brian Rogers vice president, sales and marketing.

Prisca Havranek-Kosicek has joined Denmark-based Novozymes as CFO.

To support its growing supply chain and expanding e-commerce business, Duquesne, Pa.-based American Textile Co. has hired Carlo Morgano as senior vice president, Information Technology.

Hardwick Clothes, Cleveland, Tenn., has named Ken Hoffman chairman

Nester
Nester

Nester Hosiery, Mount Airy, N.C., has promoted Jason Nester to vice president, sales.

Cary, N.C.-based INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has elected five new people to its 2018 Board of Directors: Mary Liz Cahill, SWM International; Luca di Benedetto, ATEX Inc.; Ricardo Fasolo, Fitesa Inc.; Larry Grabowy, Tufco LP; Richard Palmer, Nehemiah Manufacturing.

Furrer
Furrer

Switzerland-based Archroma has appointed Marcos Furrer president, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties and Innovation. Furrer replaces Thomas Winkler who retires at the end of March.

The Atlanta-based Americas Apparel Producers’ Network has announced Tony Anzovino as its 2018-19 president. Anzovino is chief sourcing and merchandising officer at Dallas-based Haggar Clothing Co.

Tolland, Conn.-based Gerber Technology has hired Scott Schinlever as president and COO of the company’s Automation Solutions business.

Morrisville, Pa.-based Gelest Inc. recently hired Doug Wulffleff as vice president of Mergers & Acquisitions. In addition, Dr. Jonathan Goff was promoted to vice president, Research & Development; and Dr. Youlin Pan has added the title of senior research fellow to his current title of senior R&D manager.

Velia Carboni has joined VF Corp., Greensboro, N.C., as chief digital officer, a newly created role at the company.

Dailey
Dailey

Jones Nonwovens, Humboldt, Tenn., has named Andrew Dailey vice president of sales for the company’s mattress division.

The Board of Directors of Rochester, N.H.-based Albany International Corp. has appointed Olivier Jarrault president, CEO and member of the board.

Ruusvirta
Ruusvirta

Finland-based Spinnova has named Leena Ruusuvirta a specialist on the R&D team.

CIT Group Inc., New York City, has named Jerry Younts a senior business development officer on its Commercial Services team. Younts will be responsible for offering factoring and asset-based financing services to furniture, textile and floor covering manufacturers and importers, among other clients.

March/April 2018

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Slippery When Washed

QFOMshirt
The Jobskin® Division of the Torbot Group Inc. is using GlideWear® in targeted locations in the Jobskin Burn Compression Garment.

Tamarack’s GlideWear® low-friction fabric technology protects skin from friction and shear-related injuries.

By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor

Minneapolis-based Tamarack Habilitation Technologies Inc. was founded in 1990 to design and fabricate custom orthotics and prosthetics. In more recent years, Tamarack has focused on the development of fabric technologies that protect skin and soft tissue from injuries and wounds caused by friction and shear stresses.

Tamarack’s latest innovation is its patented GlideWear® low-friction dual-ply fabric. The low-friction property of the fabric — it has an interface coefficient of friction of 0.18 — protects skin from friction and shear, which cause injuries including chafing, rubbing, blisters, ulcers and calluses making it highly suitable for medical and sports applications. GlideWear is comprised of two 86-percent nylon/14-percent spandex knitted fabric layers that glide smoothly when rubbed together.

Because of the extremely slippery nature of the two layers, the company had to devise a way to successfully incorporate it into finished products. The solution was to prepare a “GlideWear Pre-Ply” using a water-soluble bonding agent. The pre-ply material exhibits no slip whatsoever so the two bonded layers may easily be added to a garment or other product using any traditional construction methods including sewing and welding. A final washing step dissolves the water-soluble bonding agent and activates the low-friction effect.

“The low-friction effect is due to the fabric’s design and exact positioning of the two layers against each other; no unique coatings or treatments are applied,” said Adam Erickson, manufacturing manager, Tamarack.

According to Erickson, the product evolved from Tamarack’s ShearBan® fluorinated polymer film. “We wanted a conformable, breathable, washable fabric with the same low-friction properties as our ShearBan films,” Erickson said. “Now with GlideWear, strategic friction management can be applied to textile products where our ShearBan films were not compatible.”

Currently, GlideWear is featured in wheelchair seats, burn protection garments, bike shorts and athletic socks, among other products. Stockholm-based MIPS — the innovator behind the patented MIPS Brain Protection System — recently partnered with Tamarack to develop new products designed to protect athletes’ brains from rotational forces and energies linked to brain injuries. The first product to be introduced is the MIPS-E3 GlideWear liner, which may be incorporated between the comfort padding and energy absorbing shell of a helmet to provide broad coverage from rotational impacts.

“By incorporating a revolutionary technology like GlideWear, we can offer a broader range of solutions so more companies can easily and affordably incorporate MIPS into their existing designs, thereby offering added protection against rotational motion to more athletes of all abilities and ages,” said Johan Thiel, CEO, MIPS.

“Our customers are making some really innovative products,” Erickson said. “A fun aspect of the GlideWear fabric, and the textile industry in general, is the vast markets and product ideas we and our customers envision.”


For more information about GlideWear®, contact Kimberly Sanberg, +763-795-0057; kimberlys@tamarackhti.com; glidewear.com


March/April 2018

Siren Unveils Neurofabric™, The First Textile With Microsensors Embedded Directly Into Fabric, To Help People With Diabetes Continuously Monitor For Foot Injuries

SAN FRANCISCO — March 28, 2018 — The first generation of health and medical wearables have had a long list of issues, mostly due to expensive, bulky design that forced users to change their behavior which led to low adoption. That’s why Siren, a San Francisco-based health technology company, developed Neurofabric™ — the first-ever textile with microsensors embedded directly into the fabric, making its sensors completely seamless and virtually invisible to the user. Plus, Neurofabric can be made on standard industrial equipment, making production of clothing cost-efficient and easily scalable.

Today, Siren is launching its first Neurofabric-powered product — the Siren Diabetic Sock and Foot Monitoring System.

Siren Diabetic Socks continuously monitor foot temperature so people can detect signs of inflammation, the precursor to diabetic foot ulcers. Monitoring foot temperature is clinically proven to be the most effective way of catching foot injuries, and is up to 87-percent more effective at preventing diabetic foot ulcers than standard diabetic foot care.

Current solutions for diabetic foot monitoring rely on non-continuous and manual measurement. People who want to monitor foot temperature have to go to the doctor and get 6 spots on each foot manually measured for temperature, a time-consuming and inefficient process.

Approximately 56 percent of diabetic foot ulcers become infected, and 20 percent of those people with infected foot wounds end up with some type of lower extremity amputation. More than 100,000 legs are lost to diabetes each year in the US. Meanwhile, up to 80 percent of people with diabetes who have foot amputations pass away within five years.

“We built this technology because foot ulcers are the most common, costly and deadly complication for people with diabetes, yet there was no way to continuously monitor for these massive problems,” said Ran Ma, CEO and co-founder of Siren. “Our Neurofabric has endless applications across healthcare, sports, military, and fashion, but it was obvious to us that solving this specific problem is where we had to start, because it impacts so many and can mean the difference between losing a limb or not.”

For people with diabetic neuropathy, Siren’s socks look and feel just like a regular pair of socks and blend seamlessly into their daily lives. Comfortable and discreet, they provide continuous, clinical-grade temperature monitoring and health tracking over time. All they have to do is put on their socks like they would any other day.

“The Siren system has become a vital part of my foot care because it helps catch potential problems early,” said Melissa G., who has Type-1 diabetes. “The socks stay incredibly soft even after washing them, and remain comfortable throughout the day. I love that I can see the temperature of my feet instantly with the app and compare changes from day to day.”

Siren’s Foot Monitoring System includes a variety of patented technologies, enabling the standard manufacturing of integrated sensors, and simultaneous pairing of multiple devices, both of which were previously unsolved.

The subscription includes five pairs of new Siren Diabetic Socks shipped every 6 months, the Siren Companion App, and live customer support.

Siren Diabetic Socks Feature:

  • Neurofabric™ — Seamlessly-integrated sensors monitor foot temperature at 6 key points — the most effective method for determining foot health.
  • Comfortable fit — All socks are seamless and non-binding.
  • Machine-washable and don’t need to be charged
  • Moisture-wicking — Fabric removes moisture from the foot area to promote healthy skin.
  • Fresh socks every 6 months — We ship you a box of fresh socks every 6 months!

Customers who order in the next 30 days can lock in special launch pricing starting at $19.95/month.

Today’s launch comes on the heels of Siren successfully shipping its first batch of socks to their users. Previously Siren was named 2018 CES Best of Innovation, 2017 CES TechCrunch Battlefield winner, and AARP Consumer’s Choice. As part of today’s announcement, Siren is also announcing it has raised $3.4 million in seed funding from DCM, Khosla Ventures, and Founders Fund.

Posted March 28, 2018

Source: Siren

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