Outerknown partnered with Bureo to develop its Apex Evolution Trunks, transforming ocean waste into next-level surf apparel.
By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
Perhaps there is no one more suited than an 11-time world champion surfer — someone with an intimate relationship with the oceans and great outdoors — to establish a sustainable apparel brand. Pro surfer Kelly Slater along with Creative Director John Moore founded the Outerknown brand in 2015 with a goal to design and sell wardrobe staples that protect natural resources and focus on responsible sourcing practices, among other commitments.
“Everything we make is designed with great intent and purpose, and we’ll always make the most responsible design and development choices as it relates to our materials and the suppliers who share our values and take care of their workers,” Moore noted.
According to the company, Outerknown’s current collections are made using 99 percent preferred fibers —which includes organic, Regenerative Organic Certified®, recycled, regenerated and biobased materials.
Apex Evolution Trunks
Outerknown’s recent introduction— the Apex Evolution Trunks — feature NetPlus® fiber created from 100-percent-post-consumer recycled fishing nets. The fiber, produced by Bureo, also is 100-percent traceable. The woven fabric is 90-percent NetPlus/10-percent spandex. According to Outerknown, the trunks — three years in the making — represent the first four-way stretch boardshorts made using post-consumer recycled fishing nets.
“Continual progression is in our brand’s lifeblood, so it’s only natural that we were inspired to take the highest performance trunk ever made [first-generation Apex trunks] and make it even better,” Moore said. “With our minds forever on the sea, we teamed up with our friends at Bureo to utilize their unmatched NetPlus material made from recycled fishing nets. This yielded a truly responsibly made trunk with a little more substance than the first Apex without compromising any performance qualities.”
Bureo’s NetPlus®
Bureo, a certified B-Corporation, developed NetPlus to reduce the harmful impacts of fishing waste on the oceans. Discarded fishing nets are collected directly from fishing communities via Bureo’s incentivized NetPlus recycling program. This prevents the old nets from ending up in the environment.
Bureo then sorts, cleans, shreds and packs the collected nets before sending them to Bureo’s recycling partners. There, the nylon nets undergo a depolymerization process where they are broken down into their chemical building blocks. This process also removes any dyes and impurities from the nylon. The building blocks are then used to construct 100-percent NetPlus nylon pellets that can be extruded into high-quality yarns.
“The entire process, from collection through recycling, is third-party audited and certified for material traceability,” said David Stover, CEO and co-founder, Bureo. “Utilizing NetPlus material empowers fishing communities around the world by providing waste management infrastructure, employment opportunities, and non-profit funding. Bureo continues to scale NetPlus material to provide a preferred recycled input for performance fabrics, lowering emissions and reducing reliance on virgin materials.”
Fabric Development
For the Apex Trunk, Bureo worked with Outerknown to develop the fabric construction to ensure the performance characteristics were achieved. “This was an iterative process that incorporated significant field testing and adjustments to stretch and finishing to meet the performance and hand feel requirements,” Stover said. “The yarn texture and weaving of the fabric being the main contributors to the desired functionality. We were focused on building a more durable boardshort material with structure, while not compromising performance.”
“Developing a boardshort material for Kelly has been an incredibly rewarding experience for the entire Bureo team,” said Bureo Co-Founder and CTO Kevin Ahearn. “We were able to work closely with the Outerknown team to perfect the fabric blend to ensure it’s durable enough for the demanding spots Kelly surfs, but still super lightweight, with the right amount of stretch to be comfortable for long days in the ocean; we’re thrilled to now share it with the industry.”
Construction Details
The fiber composition and fabric design were not the only details considered when creating the Apex Evolution Trunks. Construction details were thoughtfully planned and designed to meet Slater’s design requests, which included an improved no-slip drawcord; a waistband that cinched without bunching; and thread-free, ultrasonically bonded seams that are more comfortable and prevent chafing.
“We envision and design everything in-house and develop in close partnerships with our global supplier partners who share our responsible mission,” Moore emphasized. “All our suppliers are thoroughly vetted and approved.”
Once designs are conceptualized and produced using computer-aided design software in-house, Outer-known builds tech packs that it sends to supplier partners. Next, all material selections are made and developed with mill partners, making sure the products meet Outerknown’s preferred fiber guidelines. Prototypes are refined for fit over multiple rounds to ensure garment comfort and sizing before samples are wear-tested by a team of brand ambassadors. Using feedback from the wear-tests, Outerknown finalizes all manufacturing details before moving the garment into production. “Our responsible buying practices dictate the flow of our calendar all the way through delivery,” Moore said.
“When designing, every decision we make is deliberate and extremely considered down to the smallest details and trims,” Moore Said. “Nothing is overlooked. This takes time as exemplified by the three-plus years of R&D to find the right Net-Plus weight and construction for the performance standards of the APEX Evolution launch, and the end result is always something we stand by — the best we can do right now, and we’ll always strive to be better with every new product.”
Future Use Of NetPlus
Outerknown has a long-standing partnership with Bureo for incorporating NetPlus. The brand first used NetPlus in hat brims in 2021 and continues to use the material in its headwear. NetPlus also is currently featured in puffers and jackets sold by Outerknown. Moore noted that it will be featured in some lifestyle bot-toms the brand plans to introduce next year. “We will continuously look for more product to incorporate NetPlus and also have some accessories in the works,” he said.
Slater’s Verdict
According to Outerknown, the APEX Evolution Trunk is one of the most successful launches in the brand’s history.
“After three years of dialing in the details, these trunks are really impressive,” Slater said. “Big improvements. Better fit, better length, a great scallop on the side for room in the leg. The materials hold up better too, and the string tie holds up great and doesn’t come undone. I’m confident these are the best trunks ever made.”
2025 Quarterly Issue II
