Boehme Filatex Inc., Reidsville, N.C., recently announced that Barry Brady has joined the company
as a technical sales representative.In his new position, Brady will represent the company and its
line of wet processing chemicals and lubricants at selected accounts throughout the United
States.Brady has more than 19 years of experience in the textile and related chemical industry.
June 1999
Beisler America Inc., Linden, N.J., has introduced technologically advanced attachments to its
model 100/56 Automatic Lockstitch Welt Pocket Sewing Unit.The 100/56 is a completely automated unit
for sewing welt pockets on the inside of outside of suit jackets and trousers. It is completely
programmable to customer specifications and can be stored on a memory card.The 100/56 also features
a breast welt pocket attachment, stacker and roller, automatic pelon feeder and cutting device,
automatic loading device for flap and an automatic piping/slitting device. Circle 308.
June 1999
Jim Green, site manager of Solutia Inc., Foley, Ala., was elected president of the Alabama Textile
Manufacturers Association (ATMA) at the groups annual meeting, which was held recently in Point
Clear, Ala.Trey Hodges, president of the Fiber Products Division of Johnston Industries, was
elected vice president, and W.Y. Shugart III of W.Y. ShugartandSons, Fort Payne, Ala., was elected
treasurer.Green has been associated with the textile industry for more than 30 years. He has
previously served ATMA in a variety of positions including vice president, treasurer and head of
the long-range planning committee.Before joining Johnston Industries, Hodges was affiliated with
WestPoint Pepperell, now WestPoint Stevens. He joined Johnston with the purchase of the Industrial
Fabrics Division from WestPoint Stevens. He has served the ATMA as a member of the board of
directors and treasurer. He was also a member of the first ATMI (American Textile Manufacturers
Institute) leadership forum class of 1997, and is also active in the Georgia Textile Manufacturers
Association.Shugart has been involved in the textile industry for 24 years, all of which have been
with his present company, where he has followed his father and grandfather.Directors elected at the
meeting to terms expiring in 2000 are:Bobby Cole, Prewett Associate Mills;Glenn Davis, Shaw
Industries;Mike Fordham, Evergreen Technologies;David Major, Russell Corp.; andHollis Mann, Mount
Vernon Mills.Directors elected to terms expiring in 2001 are:Steve Adair, Johnston Industries
Inc.;John Gordon, Crowntuft;John Hurstort, WestPoint Stevens Inc.;Mark Sheffenof, Tyco Adhesives;
and Dexter Ware, Accordis Cellulosic Fibers Inc.Newly elected directors with terms expiring in 2002
are:Joe Ballow, Wehadkee Yarn Mills;George Harper, Beaulieu of America;Rod Hewitt, Vanity Fair
Intimates;Alan Scarbrough, Kappler Protective Fabrics and Apparel Group; andDon Whitlow, Barbour
Threads Inc.Also serving on the board of directors is immediate past president, J.L. Grant,
WestPoint Stevens, and Jerry Johnson, Alabama Power Co., who is the ATMA associate members
chairman.
June 1999
RVL Inc., Westlake Village, Calif., announced it has completed the acquisition of F.G. Montabert
Co. and its Asian subsidiary UPDL (Universal PackagingandDesign Ltd.).RVL is a leading supplier of
apparel product identification. F.G. Montabert reported sales of $34 million in 1998.We are pleased
to announce the completion of this transaction, as it represents a key component of RVLs growth
strategy and provides a solid foundation for the companys future expansion, said Robert V. Lyle,
RVLs president.F.G. Montabert has been a cornerstone in the domestic woven label industry for the
past 100 years, and we look forward to merging our operations both in the U.S. and the Far East.
The blending of these organizations will enhance our ability to service our growing customer base
and provide improved operating efficiencies.
June 1999
June 1999
PARIS, France How eager were leaders of the global textile industry to see their futures at
ITMA 99More than eager; in fact, downright aggressive. Consider: Not even a strike that shut down
the Paris subway system on the second day of the show could keep crowds away. There were reports of
four-hour waits for taxis, and two-hour walks through the unseasonably hot streets of Paris to get
to and from ITMA, still visitors came by the hundreds. The show drew a whos who of American textile
leaders early on. Spotted walking the aisles during the early days were Roger Chastain (Mount
Vernon Mills), Duke Kimbrell and Andy Warlick (Parkdale Mills) and Ed Schrum (Carolina Mills).
There were reports that in the days leading up to the show, Roger Milliken had dramatically
increased the delegation from MillikenandCo., to better assess the technology on display. With some
1,250 exhibitors on display and 150,000 visitors from 130 countries expected during the 10 days of
ITMA, people got busy early. Weve been busy since the show opened at nine this morning, Allen
Thompson, Staubli technical and sales representative, said on opening day. We had Americans waiting
to get in when the doors opened.Robert Antoshak, vice president of Werner InfoTex Division said:
Were doing four on-line presentations a day, and were booked solid through the show. Werner is an
internet website and database provider that was exhibiting at ITMA for the first time.Computer
software was one of the hot topics at ITMA 99, with CAD, CAM and computer-aided production control
systems prevalent at stands throughout the massive 160,000-square-meter exhibition space. It was
commonplace to see visitors spending as much time examining computer systems attached to machines
as they did do the machines themselves.Another area of technology drawing attention was
environmental products. Reflecting increased emphasis on environmental matters, ITMA 99 organizers
added a new special category for exhibitors of environmental products such as equipment for liquid,
solid and air recycling.For visitors at the show, the search was not just for new technology or
improvements in existing manufacturing systems. It was for a competitive edge in the global
marketplace. The systems and machines that caught the eyes of key American manufacturers were as
readily available to their competitors around the world as they were to their competitors down the
road.ITMA 99 provided a window on the future of the industry not just for the next four years but
for the next century. Here are some first impressions of what could be seen through that
window: Dyeing, PrintingandFinishing
Gaston County Dyeing Machine Co., USA, had several new developments to show including its new
Millennium dyeing system. Key features of the system include a central control center, automated
weighing and dye dissolving, automatic chemical dispensing, central charge tank, automatic pH
control and conductivity monitoring, and high performance dyeing machines.The Millennium Piece
Dyeing Machine also made its debut at ITMA 99. This new jet-dyeing machine has a nominal capacity
of 450 pounds (205 kilograms) per tube and a 5:1 liquor to cloth ratio.Finally Gaston County
introduced new automated dye preparation systems. AccuWeigh provides accurate weighings of dyes in
a cost effective and timely manner. AccuMix delivers accurately dissolved dyes according to
dyestuff manufacturer recommendations for mix time and temperature.Datacolor International,
Switzerland, focused on getting the Right Color from Mind to Market at ITMA 99. The company
introduced its new Colorite color communication products for the first time to the worldwide
textile industry.The Colorite line of products provide precise color communication based on what
the company calls the most accurate computer screen calibration to date. Using a sophisticated CRT
Colorimeter and a highly developed conversion process the RGB signals of any good quality monitor
can be converted to CIE coordinates, allowing accurate screen representation within Delta 0.5
CIE.Colorite uses a process called Digital Sampling to let users communicate colors digitally
through e-mail or by network. The colors can be visually assessed immediately on screen without the
cost and time involved in shipping physical lab samples.The company also exhibited a new printer
calibration product that provides the dye house or color specifier with more accurate hard copy
prints that match the screen image.Scholl AG, Switzerland, presented the new piece dyeing machine
Rapidstar Century, that provides fast process cycles for a large variety of knitted and woven
fabrics. New is the patented Rapidflex option, a unique new chamber adjustment mechanism for
creating a highly versatile piece dyeing machine. It accommodates varying load sizes, fabric
weights and fabric styles.With a liquor ratio of 1:3 for synthetics, and 1:4,5 for cotton fabrics
the machine has a low consumption of steam, water, energy, salt and chemicals.Another new
piece-dying machine is the Scholl Intensity for densely knitted and tightly woven fabrics that are
prone to rope marks. The Intensity is equipped with a special fabric transport system that assures
intense contact between the dye liquor and the fabric rope.Scholl introduced its new Hot Water
Module systems that can boost productivity in a plant up to 25 percent by reducing fill times and
cycle times with re-heated water.Stork Digital Imaging B.V., Netherlands, presented its new true
digital printer, Amethyst that can print on demand and produce more than 350 square meters of high
quality prints per day. With Amethyst, all textile key requirements, such as light and wash
fastness are guaranteed. Stork says it is unrivaled in print quality and can print unique design
sizes of up to 5 meter length.This printer needs no engraving of screens, nor any paste
preparation. It was designed for the ever shorter becoming production runs, and the requirements of
being able to satisfy customer orders instantly, in just one or two days. Biancalani SpA,
Italy, demonstrated its new Airo Quattro machine for fabric washing and drying. The Quattro is a
further refinement of the companys Airo machine. According to the company, there are 550 Airo
machines installed worldwide.
Biancalani showed its new Airo Quatro machine for fabric washing and drying in rope form. The
machine features improved versatility and increased capacity. It can now handle knit fabrics as
well as wovens. The Airo Quattros major improvements include increased capacity and more
flexibility. The unit handles fabric in a tensionless manner and can be used to process knit goods.
Up to four different fabrics can be processed simultaneously. Cycle times can be as short as 40
minutes. Of course, this varies with fabric type.Biancalani also exhibited the Idra modular
milling-washing machine with independent channels. Its major features include newly designed
milling units, process automation and an air-jet device. WeavingBenninger Co. Ltd.,
Switzerland, announced a strategic alliance with the Moenus Group to be effective as of June 1,
1999. The announcement declared that the two companies will work together to open up positive
prospects over the long term. The marketing and service network will be extended and strengthened
worldwide and will facilitate closer customer contacts.Benninger showed a wide range of warping and
sizing machines. Also shown a number of creel configurations for sectional and direct
warping.
Benninger showed several innovations for weaving preparation and finishing. Pictured is an
independent motor drive on a Benninger assembly beamer.The BEN-V-CREEL for direct beaming with low
thread tension. Assembly beaming with perfectly regulated tension control offering more flexibility
through width adjustment. New for ITMA is reliable process monitoring via an abrasion-proof
infrared touch screen.Also new at ITMA, although has been in use the beginning of the last year is
a new generation of sectional warpers. An example is the BEN-trONIC for universal application. A
PLC receives the signals from the measuring roller and controls the thread tensioners via motorized
drive. Benninger also exhibited several section and direct warping creels. BEN-CREEL provides
a modular system which makes customized solutions for warp preparations possible. One of the new
developments for this ITMA is the precise tangential unwinding, leading to uniform tension.Another
development which is a first for ITMA, but has been available for about a year is the cold sizing.
Two-sided cold sizing application by splashing has long been a familiar alternative to waxing. What
is new is the use of cold size with high adhesive power. The size application is followed by
cylinder drying. The Teflon-coated cylinders are steam-heated and operate at temperatures below 100
C. Lindauer Dornier GmbH, Germany, showed several of their rapier and air-jet weaving machines
with many new refinements. Examples of the new additions include: Permanent control on timing of
all nozzles. If a valve malfunctions one time, a message is relayed to the main control panel to
indicate which valve needs adjustment. Mobile Tandom Booster Nozzles (TMD) for up to eight colors,
all of which are moving with the lay.
Dornier demonstrated an impressive quick style change from a fine worsted to a pure cashmere
fabric. The high speed Type HTVS/S18 rapier machine was running at 500-520 picks per minute.
Dornier showed a 430-centimeter air-jet machine driven by a jacquard head. This is the widest
air-jet machine ever shown, according to the company. Air-operated tucking motion with fully
electronic control for flat, terry, and tire cord fabrics. The operating speed is up to 1,000 picks
per minute. Disc leno operated by a motor which is integrated with the disc. This available for
both air-jet and rapier machines. Triple filling sensor with stretch nozzle to sense the arrival of
the pick, as well as detecting broken picks.
The range of yarns used for filling on air-jet machines has been extended; for filament yarns
from 20 to 2,000 deniers and for spun yarns from Ne 5 to Ne 71. Improved start marks prevention. A
1,500 mm diameter warp beam placed above the machine.The most noted improvement in the rapier
machine is the increased speed to 550 picks per minute for 190 centimeters width. One of the
machines was shown with a Staubli Jacquard head having 10,000 hooks. This machine is capable of
changing the fabric design while it is running. As an indication to the wide range of yarns which
can be woven on the Dornier rapier machines, one was shown weaving screen glass fabric. Nuovo
Vamatex SpA, Italy, had many improvements at this ITMA including its FTS (Free Transfer System).
This means there are no guide teeth in the shed to control the tapes. This was shown on two
Leonardo machines, one weaving tie fabric and the other weaving industrial fabric. This FTS is
available only on loom widths of up to 230 centimeters.The company also showed its Motorized leno
device, a leno system driven with a stepping motor directly controlled by the microprocessor. The
alternating movement of the leno is activated by a patented Vamatex mechanism. This device offers
the advantage of setting the crossing time directly from the microprocessor.The speed range for the
Vamatex machines was over 600 picks per minute for the 190 centimeters width and 400 picks per
minute for the 360 centimeters version.Picanol NV, Belgium, showed its Gamma Rapier machine for the
first time at ITMA. The most important features of this machine can be summarized as follows: Free
flight system, no guide teeth for the rapiers reducing warp damage for filament yarns, known as
Omni-FF. SUMO, super motor which is capable of changing machine speed in one cycle during running
over a wide range. This makes the drive maintenance free, since there are no belts or clutch.
Filling tension sensor which displays the filling tension during the weaving cycle. Double pick
insertion with the possibility of inserting more than two picks based on the yarn size. PFL, pick
tension release which provides optimum filling tension during insertion. This is electronically
controlled. New scissors positioning, close to the fabric edge thus reducing the amount of
waste.The maximum speed for this machine is 600 picks per minute.The Picanol Omni air-jet machines
displayed the on-loom fabric inspection in collaboration with EVS, Elbit Vision System. This system
can stop the machine when a major defect is made, and is capable of feeding the information to a
central computer. Another new feature for the Omni machine is the use of double insertion system by
means of one or two nozzles. A super-wide Omni, 380 centimeters width was shown weaving percale
sheeting fabric.
Somet, Italy, featured several rapier and air-jet machines. The company showed two different
rapier machines, Thema Super Excel and Super Excel HTP. Super Excel HTP is for high textile
performance rather than high speed. The Thema machine maximum width is 360 centimeters are inserted
simultaneously increasing the rate of filling insertion to 2841 meters per minute. Another Super
Excel machine was weaving heavy weight fabric from three beams behind each other. New additions are
also electronic weft selector and a fully electronic leno device.The Clipper air-jet machine was
shown weaving 14.5 ounce per square yard denim at a speed of 1,000 picks per minute.Another
development is the Somet Telesystem Service (STS) which allows machines in Italy to be connected to
a Somet facility through the internet. This system uses bidirectional communications to check the
operations of the machines and reprogram them. Examples of parameters which are controlled are warp
tension, machine timing, picks per inch and speed. Staubli, Switzerland, showed all three
types of shedding systems with major new developments for each: cam, dobby and Jacquard.The company
showed a new positive cam motion series 1700 for weaving heavy fabrics at high speed. There were
two types: the 1751 with no shed leveling device and 1761 with shed leveling device.There was also
a new positive dobby for high speed in two types: 2861 for 16, 20, 24 and 28 harness frames, and
2871 for 16 harness frames. Both heads can be mounted low or on a super structure, the e22 for low
and e62 for high mounting.Staubli showed electronic Jacquard heads from 72 to 12,288 hooks. A new
CX 160 machine with 96 hooks was shown. Also new is LX60 with 896 hooks and the LX 1600, double
lift with cam drive and coaxial shaft for 3072, 4096, 5120 and 6144 hooks.
The LX 1690 and LX 3290 were shown for weaving all types of velvet. This machine can mix for
two or three positions. What is new is module two position. The shed can be adjusted to separate
the shed for the ground from the shed for the pile. This machine saves the weavers from having to
couple two machines together.Another new machine is the LX 2490 for carpet weaving. The same
principle of the previous two machines is used here with the exception of larger shed opening. This
head can have 3042, 6720 and 8064 hooks. Sulzer Textil Ltd., Switzerland, showed a multitude
of innovations. The G 6300 rapier machine was introduced. This is the first product after the
merger with Pignone and combines some of the features from the two rapier machines, G6200 and FAST.
The machine has a new drive system which is suited for high speed with industrial speed of up to
700 picks per minute. A 32 bit microprocessor controls the machine. It can be used without guides
or when necessary support guide teeth can be used. The G 6250 rapier represents a further
development of the proven G 6200 concepts with a 10 percent increase in speed. Refinements were
made in the filling yarn path to reduce friction. It features new electronics with touch screen
terminal. Completely new programming features for filling feeders and filling sensors as well as a
new electronic color selector, with 8 colors for dobby and 12 colors for Jacquard machines round
out its capabilities.
Sulzer Textil’s Philip Mosimann (l), president and CEO, and Christopher Somm, worldwide sales
and marketing manager, presented the company’s new G6300 high speed rapier machine.
The P 7150 projectile machine represents a speed improvement of approximately eight percent
due to a newly designed picking unit. A new electric terminal is used to control filling breaks,
projectile identification and any textile related basic information. The machine has a pre-heating
unit to heat the oil which lubricates the projectiles and other machine parts.The P7MR3
(S360-N4-SP-D12) is a heavy duty projectile weaving machine with increased warp tension capability.
The machine shown on display had a total warp tension of 6.5 tons weaving a filter fabric with only
a 6.5 kw drive motor.The P7250 projectile machine was shown weaving a curtain style with four
different filling yarns. The machine has a special constant tension cloth take-up system and a
redesigned 4-color unit.The P7300 projectile machine was demonstrated to show the speed potential.
The machine width was 390 centimeters, weaving at a speed of 360 picks per minute. This machine has
a new electronic and redesigned drive system with touch screen terminal.The L5300 air-jet ma-chine
featured several improvements including a terry version; a 390 centimeters width; air saving
features; new shedding motions from Staubli and Toyoda; and a redesigned drive system for high
speed weaving.The T4300, the air-jet version of terry weaving was shown using a swing reed, and had
up to six colors. It had a speed of 540 picks per minute for a reed width of 250 centimeters.There
were two M8300 multi-phase machines shown. The first was weaving print cloth with show speed of
3230 rpm(equivalent to 6,088 meters per minute rate of filling insertion). The second was shown
weaving a 2/1 twill at a speed of 2,430 rpm (equivalent to 4,180 meters per minute. Both machines
were 190 centimeters wide. Tsudakoma, Japan, showed air-jet and water-jet machines. Highlights
of new developments for air-jet machines include the following: Needleless tuckers (air operated)
which eliminates all the mechanical parts; Electronically activated filling cutter on the insertion
side; eight colors with eight feeders;
Tsudakoma showed its complete line of high-speed air-jet and water-jet looms. Pictured is the
ZW405 water-jet machine. relay nozzles with a tapered hole; improved APR (automatic pick
removal) system; and a maximum width is 390 centimeters weaving from one or two beams.The fastest
machine exhibited was 1,800 picks per minute for 190 centimeters weaving pongee fabric. West
Point Foundry And Machine Co., USA, introduced and displayed more new products in Paris than at any
show in company history. Products for pre-wet sizing, filament sizing and large diameter beam
winding capabilities were emphasized. The company showed its new Model 863-PW Size Box with
accompanying Size Concentration Control System for precise pre-wet sizing. The unique concentration
control system is applicable to both pre-wet and non-pre-wet.The company also introduced its new
Model 998 Filament Size Box. Features of the box included a new loading system for a larger
immersion roll, independent adjustment, load-cell monitoring on each end of the loaded rolls,
Teflon-coated vat, and both PLI and PSI loading display. The Model 950-A Beam Winder with its
delivery roll section and beam winding can wind up to 63-inch (1600 mm) diameter loom beams while
having convenient waist-high access to the comb. Spinning
Savio Macchine Tessile SpA./Radici Group, Italy, introduced the brand new automatic winder
called Orion. The machine features a sophisticated C.A.P. system (computer aided package) that is
revolutionary in its design and function when compared to conventional electronic on-off
modulation. It allows the user to produce a perfect package without any patterns and avoids
acceleration and deceleration of the winding drum. The Orions principle function is based on a
constant drum speed and makes use of minute servo commands to shift the axle angle of the
individual packages.
Spindelfabrik Suessen, Germany, presented its new concept rotor spinning machine TT-1 with
spinbox SC. Suessen showed with this machine innovative ideas for the automation of modern
high-speed open-end spinning machines.The TT-1 features improved yarn quality and extended range of
applications of rotor-yarns, reduced maintenance due to significant changes in design, and reduced
power consumption. Suessen feels that the TT-1 will set the trend for future rotor-spinning machine
generations.
W. Schlafhorst AGandCo., Germany, promoted the evolution model of the new automatic package
winder Autoconer 338. New state-of-the-art sensor technology, drive and information technology
provide the perfect package, according to the company. The Autoconer 338 is offered in the model
types RM, D; the type V is the linkage to the Air-Com-Tex 7000 condenser ring spinning machine from
Zinser. Type K offers automatic feed package change and several special performance features.
Schlafhorsts Autocoro 288 was shown with the new Corobox SE 11, which is the first spinbox to be
manufactured in-house. Schlafhorst claims rotor speeds of up to 150,000 rpm and a maximum delivery
speed of 220 m/min. Schalfhorst also offered upgrades of existing Autocoro machines with SE 8 and
SE 9 spinbox. The company showed its new Belcoro yarn philosophy for high-fashion textiles, and the
foreign fiber detection with Corolab ABS. Murata Machinery Ltd., Japan, showed its No. 851 MVS
Vortex air-jet spinning machine for 100-percent cotton. The machine is capable of delivery speeds
of up to 400 meters per minute. This machine was introduced at OTEMAS 97. This is its first
exhibition outside Japan. It features a fully automatic piecing system that removes and repairs
yarn defects.
In winding, Murata will show the No. 7V-II Mach Coner Bobbin Tray Type and the No. 7-V Mach
Coner Cone to Cone Type. The No. 7V-II Mach Coner is a fully automatic winder with individual
inverter control. The machines tension manger controls winding tension, and its Bal-Con device
controls yarn ballooning. The No. 7-V Mach Coner is a fully automatic cone-to-cone winder. It has a
new type air-waxing unit and a new high-speed automatic doffer.
Murata’s Mach Coner gets a respectable share of attention from textile executives.On the
man-made yarn side, the company will show its No. 33H Mach Crimper and No. 33J-II Mach Crimper draw
texturing machines; the No. 778 High Speed Take-Up Winder, the No. 748 High Speed Take-Up Winder,
and the No. 459 Spandex Winder; and the No. 37S air-jet crimper air-jet texturing machine.
Trutzschler GmbH, Germany, showed for the first time the new high-production card DK 903
which replaces the model DK 803. The 903 incorporates the brand new technology of a motor driven
precision flat setting system (PFS) which allows extraordinary accurate adjustments of the flats
distance to the cylinder within just a few seconds.Flat speed is also electronically variable.
Other new developments in the preparation field are the 800 kg/hr (~1750 lbs/hr) Cleanomat CXL
cleaner, and the foreign fiber separator Securomat SC and SCFO. Trutzschler showed further two of
its HSR1000 draw-frames, of which one was equipped with an automatic can changer for rectangular
cans, as well as the automatic can transport system from Hubtex, Germany.At a separate booth, the
company presented its new range of nonwoven machinery that is extremely versatile and offers high
production rates to the mill.For the first time Trutzschler offers a complete product range for
long-staple fiber processing, from bale work-off through the tuft feeder. The 5-meter wide Scanfeed
FBK can be used for production rates of up to 2000 kg/hr (~4,400 lbs/hr) and features precise
evenness control over the entire production length and width. Rieter Textile Systems,
Switzerland, had one of the busiest stands in Hall 1. The company exhibited its equipment under the
motto: Customers Implement Their Objectives Together With Rieter.The company showed the C 51 card,
the successor to the very successful C 50 card. The C 51 has Trexplus, a further development of the
Trex system used on the C 50.This system sharply reduces the trash content of the sliver without
additional loss of good fiber, according to the company.Rieter celebrated the completion of its
1,000th RSB-D 10/D 30 generation of autoleveling drawframe in January, barely a year after starting
full-scale production. The RSB-D 30 was shown at ITMA. Its major advantages are enhanced efficiency
due to user friendliness and very high speed due to precise sliver guidance and new levelling
technology.Approximately 350 of the companys G33 ring-spinning machines have been sold since its
launch about a year ago. Its features include Servogrip doffing without underwindings; Flexidraft
yarn count changes at the push of a button; Ri-Q-Bridge improved yarn quality due to optimum fiber
guidance; and Intercool integrated liquid cooling system for motors and frequency inverters.The
company also showed its new BT 905/903 rotor spinning machines. The BT 905 is automated, and the BT
903 is semi-automatic. Both are designed for markets where labor costs are low and capital costs
are high. Quality ControlZellweger Uster, Switzerland, had a remarkable number of new
developments to show at ITMA 99. These included the Uster Quantum Clearer, the Uster HVI Spectrum
tester and the Uster Fabriscan automatic fabric inspection system.
Everything shown at the Zellweger Uster stand was new. Pictured from left to right are:
Rudolph Kagi, president and CEO, Zellweger Uster; Andy Warlick, Parkdale Mills; Duke Kimbrell,
Parkdale Mills; and Harold Hoke, senior vice president, marketing, sales and service, Zellweger
Uster.
The Uster Quantum Clearer appeared to gather the lions share of attention here. This clearer
is user configurable. It can be used in several different modes including: capacitive or optical
sensing, capacitive and foreign matter sensing or capacitive and optical combined. Its features
include 100-percent digital electronics, self-calibrating measuring heads and on-board diagnostics.
It is retrofittable to many existing machines.The Uster Quantum Clearers product highlights include
computer aided yarn clearing; Foreignclass, a new standard in foreign matter classification and
classification and optimization in the same graph, on screen.We came with no expectations but have
had an incredible first day, perhaps a record day for Zellweger Uster, said Les Ivie, executive
vice president, chief development officer, Zellweger Uster. There has been a tremendous interest in
the Quantum Clearer.The Uster HVI Spectrum tester features reduced need for sample and lab
conditioning, automatic calibration check, maturity index and short fiber index. Some of the new
technology here came from Usters work on its Intelligin process control system for cotton gins.The
Uster Fabriscan automatic fabric inspection system offers 0.3 millimeters resolution at up to 120
meters per minute. It has a learning system for quick and efficient style changes and consistent
fault classification of fabric and yarn faults. Uster Fabriclass and fabric statistics are also
offered. NonwovensFleissner GmbHandCo., Germany, introduced the Fleissner AquaTex Spunlace
System for woven fabrics, which it says is a revolutionary new textile process for pretreatment and
finishing of woven fabrics. AquaTex makes fabrics look, feel and perform better, according to the
company.The InterSpun process with the AquaTex system is the impingement of a fabric supported on a
solid or pervious surface, with very fine high velocity and discreet water jets in the form of a
curtain. The energy imparted causes the cloth to bulk and blossom and individual fibers to be
entangled. This entanglement takes place at crossover points between the warp and the weft, within
the yarns themselves and in the interstices between yarns. The amount of entangling and bonding is
directly related to the energy imparted to the cloth and to the nature of the fabric itself. The
process itself is much more than a fi
Jim Patterson (l), Ramtex executive vice president of Operations, accepts the Sulzer Textil
Innovation Award from Philip Mosimann, CEO Sulzer Textil AG.The companys mission statement has been
clearly directed towards quality and customer service. We want to provide the best quality
with customer-oriented spinning and weaving, and to compete with anybody in the world, Patterson
said. The sole focus of Ramtex is to satisfy the customer.The company has its production line set
up for high versatility, starting with the different fibers, and ending with many differently woven
styles. With the new machinery Ramtex has prepared itself to shift very quickly.We run whatever the
customer asks us to run to accommodate his needs, Patterson said. We challenge the tradition
running efficient as many styles as we need to. Since the Asian Flu hit, it was certainly much more
challenging, but our customer relationships, the commitment of our employees, as well as our
equipment has helped us to get through, and we really enjoyed some measures of success at the same
time. Sticking TogetherRamtex has built a very cohesive management team in which everybody
has the same vision. Everybody is supportive, Patterson said. We have a very solid, aggressive, and
calculated risk taking team of managers and employees.Ramtexs philosophy is that no one will be
criticized for mistakes, but individuals will be criticized for the reluctance not to try.
Paradigms are constantly challenged. Once again, Patterson said, the main focus of the teams is on
customer satisfaction and product quality. Ramtex has a stable workforce with little turnover. The
company employs approximately 720 people.Choosing and educating its personnel is an other important
part of Ramtexs success. Several years ago, Ramtex offered educational opportunities for its
personnel. At the same time the standards were raised for certain tasks and positions in the plant,
and a thorough training program was established with the community college. Modern
MonitoringMonitoring is now all over the plant, from fiber to fabric. Some of the monitoring
equipment is bi-directional, which means absolute quality parameters can be set and kept. Recently,
monitoring terminals were put on the production floor so that an employee can see how his/her
particular set of machines is running. Patterson said that this has had a positive effect on
efficiency, and employees make use of it quite frequently. We want the employees to see what is
going on, emphasized Patterson. Hungry For TechnologyRamtexs manufacturing facility covers
approximately one million square feet and is the companys only manufacturing plant in the United
States. A fascinating part is that it includes a wide variety of different yarn spinning and
weaving technologies that are usually not placed under the same roof of the typical textile
mill.This is certainly proof of an open-minded management style and, at the same time, it documents
the full support which the owners obviously provide to Ramtexs management.Since 1988, Ramtex has
created a modern yarn and weaving operation. With a present investment of approximately $130
million, Ramtex systematically modernized the entire facility.With new equipment, PC-based computer
systems were implemented to monitor and process all manufacturing and administrative data. All
systems and procedures have been upgraded to keep pace with the new manufacturing
equipment. Building RelationshipsRamtex has not only focused its attention on developing
successful partnerships with its customer, but applied this principle also in respect to its
vendors. It seems at Ramtex there is hunger for progress; every possible opportunity is immediately
explored.For example, when Sulzer Ruti (today Sulzer Textil) presented its new M8300 multi-phase
weaving machine at ITMA 95 in Milan, Italy, the Ramtex management team thought that this machine
had to be tried on the companys program.It wasnt Sulzer Ruti who wanted to place a machine or two
in this plant, it was Ramtex who had to convince Sulzer Ruti that they would like to have a small
M8300 pilot installation, making it the first company in the United Sates to have one.To tie all
the different machine manufacturers information systems together, Ramtex decided to use M and Ms
electronic controls (M and M Electric Service, Gastonia, N.C.) for some applications, and
concentrated other information systems onto a PC platform. Patterson said that the older Marzoli
cards and the recently purchased Truetschler cards use M and M electronics, and this is definitely
an advantage for the mill concerning the card room.
Truetzschler BDT020 incline bale openers deliver first-class fiber blending from the
beginning.In the preparation department, Ramtex has Truetzschler machinery from bale opening to
cards, as well as Marzoli cards that run 100-percent polyester slivers. Ramtex does drawframe
blending on Rieter RSB drawframes, and uses Rieter E70R combers with a new overhead lap transport
system. Combed yarn accounts for about one third of the production. The companys current
Zinser roving frames are on the list to be replaced at a later date. In spinning, the Murata 802H
air-jet spinning frames have done a great job for the company for 3 to 4 years, as well as the
Toyoda RX-100 ring-spinning machines that are linked to Murata winders. Air-jet yarn and ring-spun
yarn hold about an equal share inn the approximately 650,000 pounds of yarn produced per week. All
air-jet yarn is used internally.In the spinning plant, Ramtex typically runs 50/50 poly/cotton
blends and deviations from the standard 50/50 mix, but also 100-percent cotton, which includes Pima
cotton.Polyester content in Murata air-jet spun yarns is typically 57 percent, while in ring-spun
yarns it is mainly around 40 percent.Ramtex has one R20 open-end spinning frame from Rieter. The
company uses this yarn strictly for internal applications.When Ramtex had a difficult time to find
some special open-end yarn blends from vendors, they just bought one rotor-spinning machine to
fulfill its customers needs.Ramtex also has a great quality control lab, which is used for quality
control for purchased yarns, as well as off-line checking for additional production control. A
majority of the testing equipment was supplied by Zellweger Uster.In the warping department, the
two recently purchased Benninger warpers (Benninger Corp., Spartanburg, S.C.) with the integrated
Ben-Vac overhead vacuum system received high praises from Patterson, Walter Bosch, director of
Manufacturing, Spinning, and Charlie Morgan, director of Manufacturing, Weaving. Everyone agreed
that Benningers warper has contributed greatly to the mills efficiency by preparing quality warps
for all high-speed weaving machines. This is especially related to the reduced fiber fly, fiber
orientation, and dust contamination which the Ben-Vac system tackles.Ramtex is also pleased with
the technology and performance of its Ira Griffin slashers. The Ramtex team feels the slashers are
extremely important to size the warps on a high-quality level for the air-jet and multi-phase
weaving machines. Weaving Into The FutureAs already mentioned, Ramtexs philosophy is to stay
in a close and loyal relationship with its vendors, provided of course that product technology,
performance and service match the vision of the company.Patterson explained that product price is
important, but not essentially the final decision criteria for the purchase of the equipment. It is
the over-all package that must be attractive to Ramtex, the product performance, the after-sales
service and the commitment of a vendor to support the company in technological aspects. Since 1991,
Ramtex has been adding L5200 air-jet weaving machines on a continuous basis and just recently
completed an additional installation which brings the total of the L5200s to 260.The obviously
great relationship with Sulzer Textil led to the purchase of five M8300 multi-phase machines, The
last of which was installed in February. However, Ramtex is also happy with the 60 Picanol PAT-A
double-wide air-jet machines that are used for especially wide styles.At the present time the
M8300s run at 2,400 ppm, and the current styling is the same as on the L5200s. The fabric
appearance and physical characteristics do not show a noticeable difference in the greige fabric,
and after finishing, even the slightest differences are completely diminished. According to the
management, the M8300 requires quite a high level of warp preparation. Even though Ramtexs
management feels that the preparation department did a good job for the L5200 air-jets, the M8300
required an even higher level in warping and slashing.We are constantly taking our warping and
slashing employees into the weaveroom and show them what happens if, explained Patterson.The M8300,
being a double-to-triple fast weaving machine when compared to conventional machinery, also
requires a high level of discipline in reference to any machine stop. The faster a weaving machine
runs, the more critical the aspect of lost production. Time management becomes an extremely
important issue.Patterson admitted that the company is still in a learning curve, every machine
stop is analyzed, and warp and style change times are under critical observation. Also, with the
M8300 a mill has to invest in appropriate materials handling equipment. The cloth beam sits on top
of the machine, while an entire warp-beam module with drop-wires is prepared outside the machine
for quick exchange.At the present time Genkinger and Hubtex are developing new material handling
trucks for M8300 customers around the world. Advanced InfrastructureThe M8300 machines have
an integrated vacuum and air conditioning system that keeps the vital parts clean and removes
fiber-fly and dust directly from the machine. It is connected to the traditional Pneumafil A/C
system. In the rest of the plant, Ramtex has consistently upgraded the Pneumafil system and every
department is fully air conditioned. This sets the foundation for high efficiencies and comfortable
work environments.By purchasing the M8300s, Ramtex installed another new technology a VRS Video
Response System (Hartness Technologies, Greenville S.C.) that enables the company not only to do
the typical video-conferencing (VC) with the manufacturer, but also includes many additional
features. It has a wireless camera that allows support for on-line machine maintenance, machine
monitoring, remote machine diagnostics and camera macro features that can bring the eye of a remote
observer right on the spot of a troubled area, often better that the human eye might be able to see
details, in any aspect.Patterson mentioned that Sulzer Textil in Spartanburg, S.C., and the R and D
center in Switzerland have the same system. Therefore, on-line research, training and technical
support could be performed 24 hours a day. The on-line connect time is presently still a little too
costly to justify using the system on an extended daily basis, but as high-speed data transfer
connections will become less expensive, the VRS will be used more and more.Ramtex recently
installed the EVS electronic visual inspection system (Elbit Vision System, I-Tex, Greenville,
S.C.) which is a further leap into automated fabric inspection.The EVS system is integrated in a
sophisticated, massive fabric transport module that is manufactured by Intra (Spartanburg, S.C.).
EVS provides the advantage that any visual defect in the fabric will be digitally recorded. Should,
for example, at a later date a fabric dye defect arise, the company can then retrieve its visual
data and literally inspect the fabric once again.
For more information about Ramtex Inc., call (336) 824-5605, or fax at (336) 824-5689.
June 1999
Digital PrintingBy Teri Ross Digital Printing Alchemy
Designers invest in CAD and design their own systems in the name of art. While
pundits claim digital printing to be the most significant technological advancement to the textile
printing industry in over 30 years, the adaptation of these new systems has been much slower than
many had anticipated. Though the technology is gaining ground in the areas of sampling and short
run production, the slower speeds, fabric limitations, image resolution and reduced color gamut on
process color printers have excluded its use for production.This is, of course, for companies who
have a business model of mass production. For a growing number of artists, designers, interior
decorators and entrepreneurs, digital printing technology is providing the tool that allows them to
produce customized products that give them a unique competitive advantage in the new world of
customization.Rachael Scandarion, president of Digital Arts Technology Inc., Hallandale, Fla., has
been custom decorating textiles since the late 80s. For a variety of applications from clothing to
interiors and window fashions, Scandarion was hand painting and dyeing her silks, cottons,
leathers, chiffons, canvas, vinyls and meshes to create custom products with no design repeat
requirements.As her business grew, she realized she needed a printer that would allow her to
produce greater quantities of fabric. With requirements including light fastness and wind
protection on a variety of fabrics, the only equipment available were large format printers used
for outdoor signage and displays. Scandarion found a service bureau running the Nur Outboard
continuous ink-jet printer with MEK solvent-based ink.She invested more than $150,000 in research
and development for fabric testing before discovering that the service bureau was marketing the
results of her efforts to other companies. What the service bureau claimed to be waste goods in
setting up new runs, had actually become sample fabric to potential competitors. Investing For
SuccessIn January of this year, Digital Arts Technology purchased its own printing equipment the
ENCAD TX printer. The company is still pre-treating (a.k.a. padding) its own fabrics with chemicals
that are a combination of soda ash, sodium alginate and urea for fiber reactive dyes used on
cottons and adding citric acid to the mix for silks, nylons and wools.
Digitally printed scarves by Bonnie Lhotka The company pads its own fabrics because
there are no pre-treated fabrics available for the markets it serves. In addition, by controlling
this step of the process, the company feels they have a better handle on quality control and can
maintain the proprietary nature of their unique products.Color matching is also a science for which
there was a development curve. Not only do the different inks react differently to different
fabrics, but the colors also change after a fabric is steamed. As a result, the company has
developed an elaborate array of color formulas and charts on printed fabric for both pre-and post
treatment. Aurora Xynthesis, Fallbrook, Calif., is targeting the hospitality market with its use of
digital printing technology. Marketing to architects and interior designers, the company has begun
intermixing digital with conventional arts to produce lighting fixtures, room dividers, stage
settings, interior settings, window coverings, murals, tile, and wall dr they are creating for
hotels, restaurants, casinos and resorts. It is working on natural fibers, silks and polyesters
using the Go ink set from ENCAD, as well as Ilford archival inks on ENCAD ink-jet printers. The
company is backing all of its own fabrics and mixing many of its own inks to achieve a unique
look. Opportunities For TechnologyWe are experimenting all of the time, said Alyson LeBlanc,
the companys creative director. It staggers my mind when I think of the opportunities with this
technology.Custom Cloths, Lafayette, La., a division of Pixus Digital Printing, offers personalized
silk ties and scarves via its website at www.customcloths.com. It offers custom designs in minimum
quantities of 10 with a delivery time of 2-3 weeks.For customers who want to design their own
products, the company sends them an Adobe Illustrator template on which to create their artwork.
Products are created using the ENCAD NovaJet Pro 50 printer, with inks and fabrics from Jacquard of
Healdsburg, Calif., who offers pre-treated fabric mounted on paper liners. The variables in print
technology, fabrics and inks requires skill sets that included a combination of artist, engineer
and chemist.Jacquard is one of a growing number of companies who are seeking to capture a share of
this burgeoning marketplace by supplying a system of pre-treated fabrics, inks and post-processing
steam equipment that will take a lot of the alchemy out of the process.Jacquard has developed a
hardware independent system that supports reactive, disperse and acid dyes on over 100 different
fabrics available for ink-jet printing; including gauze weight silks, metallic silks, cotton,
linen, Lycra®, woven nylon, wool and poly/cotton blends. All of the fabrics they offer have been
ICC profiled for color management and matched with the proper ink to the proper fabric; fiber
reactive inks for cottons and cellulose fibers, acid dyes for silk, nylon and wool and disperse
dyes for any fabric containing polyester. All color profiling is done after printing on the cloth,
with 1300 patches of color per cloth and ink set. The Art Of DigitalAt Digital Atelier, a
printmaking studio with locations near Boston; Boulder, Colo.; and Seattle, fine artists are
combining traditional studio and media techniques with digital imaging to produce original fine art
and unique editions, including jackets, scarves and tablecloths.Designer Bonnie Lhotka is using the
Jacquard ink-jet system on an ENCAD NovaJet Pro 50 with 100-percent silk. Lhotka has raised the
ink-jet head height on the printer, a practice she does not advocate as it voids the warranty. She
also programmed the RIP to do double strikes for richer coverage and calibrated her monitors to the
output on silks using Adobe Gamma software as well as Apples Color Sync.Chuck Davis of Regal
Computer Graphics, Greeley, Colo., has been experimenting with digital textile printing since 1994.
With a Ph.D. in mechanical engineering, Davis has applied his technical expertise to the
development and marketing of new products that exploit the new market opportunities supplied by
digital printing, including apparel sampling, sailboat sails, home decorating and custom
carpet. Making It PayIn a presentation given at IMIs recent Digital Printing of Textiles
Conference in Atlanta, he offered several suggestions on how to make a buck digitally printing
fabrics.In addition to suggesting that short run printing offers the potential for higher margins
along with higher waste, he stressed the importance of knowing your strengths and weaknesses,
investing in strong technical people, the importance of quality, and the value of good record
keeping.When you are producing custom products and need to repeat the process, the only way to
accomplish this is by referencing every detail as to what you did to get your results, Davis
said.As all of these pioneers have discovered, it is not the digital printing technology itself
that is the competitive advantage, but rather the products they are producing. They are not
allowing current limitations in digital printing technology to limit them creativity.As digital
printing alchemists, these individuals and companies define the market through new products and
applications that exploit the technology in a manner that gives them a unique and timely
competitive advantage.
June 1999
Lectra Systs, Paris, recently announced it has acquired Prima Design Systems Ltd., Hong Kong, as
part of a series of strategic moves Lectra has taken to consolidate its leadership in the global
CAD market for textile-related industries.Prima has more than 3,000 design stations and 1,300
customers worldwide. It is a pioneer in the development of CAD systems for the fashion, apparel and
textile industries.The companys 1998 revenues were $2.8 million, 85 percent of which were from
software sales.Lectra has acquired 100 percent of Prima Designs stock for a total consideration of
$3.1 million in cash and Lectra shares, plus an earn-out of up to $1.5 million designed to retain
the development and marketing talents of Prima founders and managers.Stork AgreementLectra also
announced it has signed a letter of intent with Stork, the Netherlands, to enter into a worldwide
strategic partnership whereby the two companies will jointly develop and market integrated
solutions for textile digital printing.The companies share a common vision of the future revolution
that the association of CAD, digital printing and automated cutting will bring in the
textile-related industries, and of its impact, from design to production, in significantly reducing
time-to-market and cutting production costs.The partnership includes immediate actions and product
offerings for prototypes, samples and small series, printed precisely as they are created on CAD
systems, as well as longer term projects, for which the companies have decided to coordinate their
future research, development, marketing, sales and services organization in order to provide
comprehensive and integrated solution, based on a common technology platform.
June 1999
BASF Corp. has introduced PROCION® XL+, a new generation of reactive dyes that are polyfunctional
deactivated dyes with a high tinctorial strength and a high-fixation efficiency. These dyes were
produced for the rapid exhaust dyeing of cellulosic fibers and blends.PROCION XL+ dyes are suitable
for all types of dyeing machines and will reduce water and energy consumption, the company says.
Circle 303.
June 1999
