Schaetti Supplies Hotmelt Line To Sympatex Licensee

Schaetti AG, Switzerland, has delivered a complete hotmelt plant to Paka, a Korea-based spinning,
weaving, bleaching and outfitting company. Paka will use the hotmelt line to produce coated
membrane films under license by Sympatex, a Germany-based manufacturer of breathable waterproof and
windproof membrane films for sports clothing, shoes and other high-tech products. Paka is the first
Asian company to be licensed by Sympatex.

Schaetti developed the hotmelt machinery for Paka’s product needs. Features of the equipment
include: precise web tensioning and centering guides for thin and sensitive substrates; a gravure
roller system for minimum coating thicknesses of 5 micrometers; and a processing speed of up to 100
meters per minute.

August 2004

Lectra Updates, Introduces Software

Lectra, Paris, has released an upgraded version of its PrimaVision textile design software that
features PrimaVision Print, PrimaVision Knit and PrimaVision Weave, new modules designed for
printed, knitted and woven fabric designers. The company also has introduced Kaledo Asset Manager
software for the storing and consulting of existing textile designs. Using the manager, designers
may efficiently search through textile design libraries to create new designs or new colorways.

August 2004

Congress Approves Free Trade Agreements

Before taking is summer recess, Congress approved free trade agreements with Australia and Morocco.
The Australian pact had the strong endorsement of the US textile industry, but it was opposed to
the Morocco agreement because it permits specified amounts of yarn and fabric from
non-participating countries to enjoy the same quota and tariff preferences as products from
Morocco. The United States now has free trade agreements with Canada, Mexico, Israel, Jordan,
Australia , Morocco and Singapore, as well as regional pacts with the Caribbean and Sub-Saharan
African nations. This action pretty well wraps up the Bush administrations ambitious free trade
initiatives for this year, as a major agreement with the Central American nations is pending but
will not be dealt with a by Congress in an election year in view of its highly controversial
nature.

August 2004

DuPont Ink Jet Ships 50th Artistri™ Printer

DuPont Ink Jet, Wilmington, Del., and Toshin-Kogyo Co. Ltd., Japan, recently announced delivery of
the 50th DuPont Artistri™ 2020 digital textile printer. Toshin-Kogyo designed and built the printer
based on DuPont specifications, and worked with DuPont for more than two years on the integration
of the 2020 printer and accompanying Artistri software and inks.

“Building on the success of our initial launch and on the momentum of the introduction of our
pigment system, we anticipate a bright future for DuPont Artistri,” said Rick Baird, vice
president, DuPont Ink Jet.

August 2004

Best Manufacturing Acquires Artex International

In an effort to focus on its core garment and textile businesses, and expand its product and
service offerings, Best Manufacturing Group LLC, Jersey City, N.J., has acquired Artex
International Inc., Highland, Ill., a producer and supplier of apparel and textiles for textile
rental and hospitality markets. A new subsidiary, to be called Best:Artex LLC, will be formed from
Artex International and Best’s institutional business unit, and will be led by Terry Anderson,
current Artex chairman and CEO. Anderson will serve Best:Artex as president and CEO, and will
report to Best Manufacturing Chairman and CEO Scott Korman.

August 2004

Textile Imports Battle Heating Up

The textile trade war is getting nasty.

As US textile manufacturing interests and some of their allies in less-developed countries
appear to be making progress toward reconsideration of the Jan. 1, 2005 removal of textile quotas,
importers are fighting back with political and economic pressure. Four trade associations
representing major importers of textile and apparel have written to US Trade Representative Robert
B. Zoellick urging him to stick by a US government commitment to phase quotas out by the end of
this year. Saying the US textile and apparel interest have eagerly awaited the quota phase-out, the
associations said: “We must ensure that the United States and all other World Trade Organization
members countries adhere to their international obligations, including the timely elimination of
the global quota regime on textiles and apparel.The importers say elimination of quotas will
provide companies with the ability to improve efficiencies in their sourcing and global operations,
and they say this will accrue to the benefit of American consumers.

 Admitting there are some concerns in less-developed countries regarding the quota
removal, the importers say those countries need to look for other opportunities to help them
compete successfully in the post-quota global marketplace. They believe this can be accomplished by
means of regional free trade agreements and other preferential programs.

Responding to a request by the government of Bangladesh for an emergency meeting of the World
Trade Organization (WTO) to reconsider removal of the textile and apparel quotas, J.C. Penney fired
off a letter to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association threatening to
reconsider doing business with Bangladesh unless its government withdraws its support for such a
meeting. The American Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC) immediately blasted the Penney letter,
pointing out that Bangladesh is heavily dependent on textile and apparel manufacturing just to feed
its people every day. The coalition also noted that Bangladesh is an Islamic country on the front
line of the war on terrorism.

The firestorm developed after the governments of Mauritius and Bangladesh formally petitioned
the WTO for an emergency meeting to evaluate the impact of the proposed quota removal and other
trade practices in what is likely to become a quota-free world. The WTO has responded by calling a
meeting of the Heads of Delegations of several countries involved in textile trade to determine
whether an emergency meeting should be called. AMTAC’s executive director, Auggie Tantillo, said
such a meeting is a critical first step towards finding solutions to what some textile
manufacturers see as a major crisis associated with the quota phase-out. He said, “Failure to act
now will mean massive job displacement in practically all countries involved in textiles and
apparel production.”



August 2004

US And Vietnam Extend Textile Import Quotas

The US and Vietnam have agreed to a one-year extension of their textile and apparel bilateral
textile quota agreement. The new pact, which will run through 2005, has a special provision that
will permit Vietnam this year to borrow up to 8 percent of next year’s quota. That provision will
be helpful to US importers who have already used up much of this year’s quota. During the first
seven months of this year, Vietnam’s exports to the United States amounted to $2.5 billion.

US textile manufacturers have been strongly opposed to the Vietnam agreement ever since it
was negotiated in April 2003. They charged that many of the products used to help determine the
base for establishing quotas were not made in Vietnam. Following a thorough investigation, the US
Customs Service determined that was the case, and it levied a penalty reducing the quota by 2.5
percent. That set off a strong protest from US textile manufacturers who charged that the extent of
the problem was much larger, but no further action was taken.

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August 2004

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Corn Into Gold

Renewable, biodegradable alternatives to petrochemical-based fibers have provided Interface Fabrics Inc., a division of Atlanta-based Interface Inc., with new possibilities in its quest to make its operation and products as environmentally sustainable as possible. At NeoCon®
2004, held recently in Chicago, the commercial fabrics manufacturer introduced panel fabrics made with Minnetonka, Minn.-based Cargill Dow LLC’s Ingeo™ bio-based fiber — the first such commercial fabrics available.

Ingeo fiber is processed from biodegradable polylactide (PLA) polymer resin derived from fermented sugars of corn, a 100-percent annually renewable resource. PLA requires 20- to 50-percent less fossil fuel and generates 15- to 60-percent fewer greenhouse gas emissions in its production than do petrochemical-based fibers such as polyester. It is produced without using antimony, a heavy metal used in the production of polyester bottles — the source for recycled polyester fiber.
Ingeo also offers performance benefits comparable to and even exceeding those of polyester. For example, it is naturally stain-resistant; does not retain odors; and exhibits superior fire-retardant properties, emitting non-toxic smoke and low levels of heat when burned.

qfom_Copy_13

Herman Miller’s Kira panel fabrics, developed in partnership with Interface Fabrics, won a
Best of NeoCon® 2004 Gold award.

Interface Fabrics offers its bio-based textiles under the Terratex® brand, which also features fabrics made from recycled polyester and “green” wool. At NeoCon, the company launched open-line Bungee and Propeller PLA panel fabric collections through Allsteel Inc., a Muscatine, Iowa-based provider of workplace
solutions. It also partnered with office solutions provider Herman Miller Inc., Zeeland, Mich., to introduce Kira, a proprietary line of PLA panel fabrics that won the Best of NeoCon 2004 Gold award in the Textiles: Panel category.

Paul Bennotti, director of marketing strategy, Interface Fabrics, said response to the fabrics was “phenomenal. The interest was huge, and customers were fascinated by the corn-into-fabric story.” He said commercial interest in green building and interior products has grown significantly thanks to standards such as Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design.

Bennotti said the new fabrics were more than three years in the making, from developing a suitable fiber size and the desired aesthetics to getting to the right price point. They are the first Terratex fabrics to conform to a new Chemical and Dye Protocol, ensuring that the finishing and dyeing chemicals used are the most eco-friendly materials available. They also are produced using wind energy under the company’s Green-e certified program. Under the ReSKU™ reclamation
program, Interface Fabrics is developing a formal reclamation and composting protocol to be used with its bio-based fabrics.

Herman Miller also is developing a composting program for PLA fabric scrap. “We know the fabric composts completely within 72 hours, and that it will act as a plant nutrient,” explained Barbara Tasker, senior product manager, Herman Miller. A mixture of fabric, sawdust and organic material is heated to 140°F. The composted material then can be used to fertilize crops, such as corn.


For more information about Terratex® bio-based fabrics, contact Paul Bennotti
paul.bennotti@interfacefabrics.com, or Interface Fabrics (207) 876-3331.



August 2004

Electrospinning: Past, Present & Future


I
n recent years, the term “nanotechnology” has spread across the globe like wildfire.
Millions of dollars in research grants and investments are being devoted to making products less
than 100 nanometers in size. Unlike many other aspects of the US textile industry, which face
considerable pressure, nanotechnologies are generating significant interest.

Within the past decade, the industry has rediscovered and continues to develop technologies
that enable production of extremely small fibers – nanofibers – using a process called
electrospinning.


The Electrospinning Process


Electrospinning is not by any means a new discovery. Its roots go back to the early 1930s,
when the first patent was issued. Simply stated, electrospinning is a process that uses the
electrostatic attraction between a charged polymer and a grounded or oppositely charged collection
plate to produce extremely fine fibers ranging in diameter from less than 10 nanometers (nm) to
several micrometers. Recent developments have shown it can be performed on polymers both in the
molten state and in solution.

electrospinninggraph

The polymer is held in a syringe or other type of container
(See Figure 1). The charge can be applied directly to the syringe so that when polymer
passes through, it receives a surface charge similar to that applied to the syringe. As the voltage
to the system is increased, the strength of the electric field generated eventually becomes greater
than the viscoelastic properties and surface tension of the polymer, and a tiny cone – often
referred to as a Taylor Cone – is formed.

Further increasing the electric field’s strength will deform the Taylor Cone until a fine
fiber is extruded from the cone’s apex. When working with solutions, this strand will continue as a
stable jet for a short period of time before the instability or whipping region occurs. This region
further decreases the fiber’s diameter as the solvent evaporates from the solution, leaving an
extremely small fiber. It is important to note that due to a much higher viscosity and lack of
solvent evaporation, fibers electrospun from the melt do not undergo an instability region and as a
result have much larger diameters.

Electrospun fibers typically have been collected as a random nonwoven mat, and most of the
applications developed today reflect this configuration
(See Figure 2). However, advancements in collection techniques continue to be a major
focus of research. As a result, it is possible to collect aligned continuous fibers that can be
twisted to form yarns composed of nanofibers.

electrospinningtop
Figure 2: A scanning electron microscope (SEM) micrograph showing electrospun polylactic
acid glycolic acid (PLAGA) nanofibers


Nanofiber Applications


It is one thing to successfully produce nanofibers, but it is more important from an
economic standpoint to find a suitable application for them. One of the main goals for nanofibers
has been to produce the strength they should theoretically possess. In conventional fibers produced
today, there are fairly defined limitations to the percentage of crystallinity that can be obtained
in a fiber/yarn form.

Another potential benefit of nanofiber technology is the tremendous increase in
surface-area-to-weight or -volume ratios. The lure of nanotechnology stems from the possibility of
redefining these limitations.

For example, the actual thickness of a carbon/carbon bond is approximately 1 nm. If a
5-nm-diameter fiber is produced, the molecular chains are effectively forced to align in a highly
crystalline manner. Ideally, the resultant strength of the fiber produced will be determined by the
strength of the carbon/carbon bond in the molecular chains of the polymer.

electrospinningbottom
Figure 3: SEM micrograph example of a nanofibrous mat


Varied Applications


These advantages of electrospun fibers make them very appealing for a broad array of
potential applications in many industry segments. The composites industry is especially interested
in nanofiber technology because it potentially allows the creation of products that are much
smaller and lighter in weight, yet capable of performing at the same or enhanced mechanical
standards compared to traditional composites. If the fibers can be collected individually and
aligned to specific orientations, it is possible to increase the maximum volume fraction of fibers
in a matrix, thus increasing the material’s strength. The increased surface-area-to-weight ratio
also will  allow for improved bonding with the matrix to help prevent failure due to pullout
of the fibers.

In addition to the composites industry, the filtration industry has begun utilizing
nanofibers, and in some cases has generated commercially available products. Nanofibrous mats,
similar to that shown in Figure 3, can be made with varying fiber diameters based on several input
parameters. With differing fiber diameters, the pore size of the mat can be controlled to a fairly
high degree. As a result, nanofibrous mats can be designed to block out molecules of specific
sizes. In addition to mechanical filtration as described above, nanofibrous mats can be treated so
that when molecules of specific design pass through, a chemical reaction takes place that
neutralizes any potential hazards.

Similarly, nanofibrous mats are being explored as biomedical grafts and wound dressings. It
has been found that cells can adhere to and proliferate into the mats with a great deal of success.
Also, because of the extremely small size of the nano-fibers, the potential exists for layering of
different polymers with specific functionalities. Electrospinning techniques can be applied to
nearly every polymer of sufficient molecular weight, including those that are Food and Drug
Administration-approved, thereby limiting issues of biocompatibility.

The application of nanofibers is not aimed only at specialized industries involved in
technical textiles. The introduction of microfibers into   traditional textile markets
has created a wave of new garments claiming stain resistance and extremely soft hand. The
introduction of nanofibers and nanocoatings can take apparel innovations further. For example,
man-made cashmere has been developed with a softer hand than that of worsted wool, offering the
feel of cashmere at a fraction of the cost.


The Future Of Nanofibers


One of the greatest attributes of electrospinning and nanofibrous technology is that it is
still in its infancy. Numerous ideas and concepts have been proposed, but in many cases, the
theoretical expectations have yet to be realized. It has been shown that nearly every polymer
imaginable can be electrospun from either solution or melt, so there are no limitations in that
regard. Today, the fibers are collected in the form of a mat of staple-aligned fibers. Future
developments and processing technologies must find a way to orient a continuous fiber for the
technology to advance in the right direction. It has been shown that electrostatic attraction and
repulsion can be used to control the path of the jet. With enhanced methods, it may be possible to
produce woven or braided fabrics directly from the electrospinning station. While the process
awaits mechanical and processing mechanisms that are capable of maneuvering single fibers into
specific configurations, much work still needs to be done to optimize the conditions for making a
specific fiber diameter with a specific polymer. Only after the process can be controlled will the
technology be ready for full optimization and full realization of electrospinning capabilities.


Editor’s Note: Jason Lyons and Jim Kaufmann are affiliated with Philadelphia-based NovaComp
Inc. The authors wish to thank Drexel University, Philadelphia, for use of the scanning electron
microscope, and Frank Ko, Ph.D., for his assistance, both educationally and financially.




August 2004

Meridian Industries Acquires Atlantic Spinners

Meridian Industries Inc., Milwaukee, a supplier to the apparel, hosiery and specialty yarn markets,
has purchased the assets of novelty yarn manufacturer Atlantic Spinners Inc., based in Bessemer
City, N.C. Meridian currently owns 19 plants in seven states.

The newly acquired business will operate within the Meridian Dyed Yarn Group, Valdese, N.C.,
as Meridian Specialty Yarns. Former Atlantic Spinners employees Eddie Pell and Joel Goodrich will
become creative and merchandising director, and director of manufacturing, respectively.

“This acquisition allows us to design yarns with unmatched flexibility with regard to color,”
said Rob Setliff, president, Meridian Dyed Yarn Group. “Our yarns will utilize our expertise in
space dyeing from our Astro Dye Works facility in Calhoun, Ga.; in package dyeing from our dye
house in Valdese, N.C.; as well as the predyed fibers used in the Meridian Specialty Yarn facility.

August 2004

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