Genencor International Inc., Palo Alto, Calif., has introduced OXY-GONE® T400. The new catalase
enzyme removes hydrogen peroxide before the dyeing process. According to the company, Oxygone T400
is effective over a wide range of temperatures (30°C to 70°C), has excellent storage stability and
exhibits the highest level of hydrogen peroxide tolerance among competitive products.
July 2005
Regitex Inc., Quebec, a manufacturer of ring-spun and protective yarns, has added a third spinning
facility to its business with the recent purchase of a nearby open-end yarn-spinning facility,
which is now doing business as Regifil. The company has hired additional employees in order to
produce acrylic and other yarns at the new plant.
July 2005
Key members of the House of Representatives are supporting legislation that would crack down on
what they see as illegal trade practices by China in an effort to win congressional support for the
Dominican Republic-Central American Free Trade Agreement (DR-CAFTA). The legislation for the first
time would permit the United States to levy punitive import duties on illegally subsidized goods
from state economies such as China. It also would punish countries that manipulate their currencies
to gain an international trade advantage.
Rep. Phil English (R-Calif.) is sponsoring the legislation, and he received the blessing of
Rep. Bill Thomas (R-Calif.) chairman of the House Ways and Means committee. Up until this time,
Thomas has been opposed to the anti-China legislation, but he said the English bill is strong and
responsible legislation. Earlier this month, the Senate passed DR-CAFTA by a vote of 54-45, but the
outlook in the House is uncertain, as there is strong Democratic opposition and lack of support
from some Republicans, including a number of textile-state representatives who have either
announced their opposition or are non-commital. On July 16, President Bush flew to North Carolina
to drum up support in the textile states. He said DR-CAFTA is a pro jobs bill that would help
stabilize the economies of the Central American states and create trade opportunities.
Rep. Charles B. Rangel (D-NY), a powerful Democratic representative on the Ways and Means
Committee, also has introduced a bill calling for countervailing duties on goods from state-run
economies and punitive action against currency manipulation. The Democrat bill goes ever further
than the Republican bill in that it would tighten the definition of currency manipulation and
require the president to file a complaint with the World Trade Organization within 90 days of a
determination of manipulation.
Textile industry lobbyists have long sought the ability to file countervailing duty cases
against state-run economies such as China, and have been calling on the US government to take
action against Chinas currency manipulation, which they say amounts to as much as a 40-percent
subsidy on imports.Rep. Thomas said he would like to see the punitive legislation acted on before
the House considers DR-CAFTA later this month,
July 2005
Retailers and consumers must know if products from abroad are environmentally friendly and
free of harmful substances. US textile and apparel manufacturers wonder if these products comply
with regulatory and safety requirements they must abide by in the United States. The
well-established and internationally recognized Oeko-Tex Standard 100 concept can answer these
questions.
To assess the growing significance of the standard for the North American market, the
executive committee of the International Oeko-Tex Association, Switzerland, recently visited a
number of well-known textile and apparel manufacturers in the United States. The delegation
included representatives from the Germany-based Hohenstein Research Institute, which was one of the
founders of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 in 1992. The organization currently operates the only two
Oeko-Tex branches in North America one in Apex, N.C., and one in Mexico City.
Oeko-Tex Certification In North America
Currently, there are 27 companies in the United States, Canada and Mexico that hold Oeko-Tex
certificates. However, in view of the relaxation of trade barriers by the WTO, national
manufacturers are becoming more interested in using the internationally recognized Oeko-Tex
Standard 100 to position themselves as high-quality providers and to prove it to their consumers in
the retail business, said Raimar Freitag, secretary general, Oeko-Tex.
Many companies from all phases of production in North America from suppliers of raw
materials and accessories to yarn and fabric manufacturers and garment manufacturers are already
involved with the Oeko-Tex certification system. Therefore, expanding the Oeko-Tex network is easy
because it is possible to use imported materials that are Oeko-Tex-certified.
For US consumers, issues such as skin-friendliness and other health aspects are more
important than ever when buying textiles. It may be a reflection of the general wellness trend or a
consequence of changing attitudes about ecology that creates a desire for more sustainability in
all aspects of life. One of the early pioneers of Oeko-Tex Standard 100 in the United States is
Portland, Ore.-based Hanna Andersson, a mail-order house specializing in apparel for the entire
family. According to its catalog and website, “You’ll notice that many hannas throughout the
catalog are certified, and as we add more, were placing not only softness against babies and
childrens skin, but safety as well.”
International Importance
Of The Oeko-Tex Label
As a global certification system capable of testing raw materials, interim products and
end-products, the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 has established itself in the textile chain as a firm
benchmark for textiles that aren’t harmful to health and the environment. With more than 45,000
certificates issued for millions of individual products, and more than 6,000 companies
participating in 80 countries, the Oeko-Tex label is the most well-known and successful brand of
its kind, according to the association.
The leading regions with certifications are Europe (68.8 percent) and Asia (28.9 percent).
The major selling markets for Oeko-Tex-certified products are the European countries and Japan,
where consumers ecological awareness is most strongly developed. There, the Oeko-Tex label can be
found in all kinds of retail stores, including mass retailers and food discount stores. Oeko-Tex
labels are found so frequently on all categories of articles that it now is almost like a brand
name for customers.
Benefits Of The Modular Oeko-Tex System
For Industry And RetailersThe modular principle of Oeko-Tex certification means that
licensed companies can minimize their testing costs. Using certified components for their products
spreads the costs among all suppliers. Sources for possible harmful substances are likely
introduced during manufacturing. However, manufacturers can use production processes that use no
hazardous substances.
When the globally accepted Oeko-Tex criteria are used as delivery requirements, product
safety is maximized for manufacturers, retailers and consumers.
The test criteria are updated each year and always are based on the latest scientific
findings and current legal requirements. The testing for harmful substances is carried out by the
independent institutes of the Oeko-Tex Association. Certified products give peace of mind to
consumers and are powerful selling arguments for the retail trade. If product properties such as
functionality, fashionable design, ease of care and long service life, among others, are similar,
home textiles and apparel that bear the Oeko-Tex certificate offer the important benefit of being
safe for human health, regardless of where they are manufactured.
Reliable Security:
The Oeko-Tex List Of Criteria
Another advantage of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is its comprehensive and practical testing
scope for textiles. As a general principle, the larger the skin contacts for a textile, the
stricter are human-ecological requirements for textile products.The Oeko-Tex list of criteria
includes both legally banned and identified harmful substances, and certain parameters for human
health protection. Specifically, textile products are tested for carcinogenic and allergy-inducing
dyes, banned azo dyes and pesticide residues. There also are strict limits for formaldehyde,
extractable heavy metals, chlorinated phenols, toluene and organo-tin compounds. Finally, textiles
must be colorfast and have a skin-friendly pH value.
Requirements For Oeko-Tex Certification
Products can only bear the Oeko-Tex label if all their components satisfy the Oeko-Tex
Standard 100 criteria. Those products include non-textile accessories such as zippers, buttons and
interlining, among others. An Oeko-Tex certificate is valid for one year and can be extended only
after passing the tests again. For quality assurance, authorized Oeko-Tex institutes carry out
annual random tests of Oeko-Tex-labeled products purchased in the marketplace at a rate of at least
15 percent of issued certificates.
July 2005
New York City-based financier Carl C. Icahn has submitted the winning bid in an auction for West
Point, Ga.-based textile giant WestPoint Stevens Inc. Icahn’s $703.5 million offer – tendered
through an indirect subsidiary of American Real Estate Partners LP (AREP), which he controls – won
out over a lesser bid by Wilbur L. Ross, also of New York City, and a steering committee comprised
of a group of the company’s first lien holders.
Icahn holds a majority of WestPoint Stevens’s second lien debt as well as a portion of its
first lien debt. His offer includes a $187 million cash investment for 17.5 percent of the equity
of WS Textile Co. Inc., a new company to be formed to take indirect ownership of WestPoint
Stevens’s assets; a $125 million rights offering for 47.5 percent of said equity; and an issuance
of new stock to the company’s first lien holders for 35 percent of the equity. AREP is expected to
be WS Textile’s majority owner, possibly owning up to 79 percent of the company.
Icahn is chairman of the board of AREP’s general partner, American Property Investors Inc.
Commenting on his successful bid, he stated, “We look forward to continuing to earn the trust of
WestPoint’s customers, employees and vendors.”
“Court approval of the sale agreement for WestPoint Stevens brings us closer to the
successful conclusion of our reorganization process,” said M.L. “Chip” Fontenot, president and CEO,
WestPoint Stevens. “Going forward, we will seek to take advantage of global opportunities.”
July/August 2005
Duff Norton Co., Charlotte, reports its HPMC Series MultiPort Rotary Unions designed to provide a
rotating seal between fluids and a revolving roll or drum are suitable for applications requiring
high pressures and multiple media including water, hot oil, steam, air and chemicals. Standard
models feature nickel-plated steel construction and up to eight individually sealed ports. Special
configurations are available upon request. Once the slotted rotating disk is clamped into position,
the body of the device remains in place regardless of rotation, according to the company.
July/August 2005
T
he battle to stem the Chinese import tide continues — with moves and countermoves on both
sides still making it hard to pinpoint the final outcome. Complicating the issue: Chinese textile
and apparel companies have clearly overinvested in new factories and have hired large numbers of
workers to run these operations.
Beijing cutbacks could prove quite painful financially and politically. On the other hand,
most analysts remain convinced some accommodation eventually will be reached that will help reduce
some of the pressure on our domestic textile and apparel mills.
It’s in the interest of both parties to avoid any major confrontation.
A possibility: something in the order of the recent China-European Union deal, whereby both
sides agreed to set limits on 10 categories — with annual shipment gains of these products set
between 8 and 12.5 percent a year. Other options include Beijing moves toward higher export
tariffs, reduced industry subsidies and upward revaluation of the yuan.
The big question is, just how much revaluation? It’s highly unlikely China will agree on the
25-plus-percent figure many feel is needed. On the other hand, some action seems certain. US
Treasury Secretary John Snow feels Beijing will make a long-anticipated move on this score by
mid-October, when the US Treasury is expected to deliver a report on world currency manipulation.
Many feel the yuan may be boosted by as much as 10 percent before the end of the year. Such an
upward move could well be accommodated by Beijing. One recent study by the Asian Development Bank
suggests such action would show China’s willingness to compromise and would help stabilize China’s
overheated economy.
But, on a more sobering note: Don’t expect miracles from a 10-percent currency move. It
probably would have only a minor impact on our overall trade deficit, because US imports of all
products from China make up only about 15 percent of total incoming shipments, and any Chinese
import slippage would probably lead to increases from other countries.
China: Here To Stay
Nor are Chinese textile imports likely to be cut much by a US-Beijing agreement. US buyers
continue to emphasize China’s role as a sourcing location will simply be too attractive to ignore —
and trade barriers aren’t going to stop that country from being the top garment-maker in the world.
Indeed, despite all the current uncertainties, many buyers are already laying the groundwork for
more Chinese gains — noting that World Trade Organization safeguard rules expire in 2008.
What’s more, importers could have more leeway as early as next year — since quotas imposed in
2006 would be calculated from a larger base that takes into account sharp early 2005 Chinese
increases.
In any case, China’s sourcing advantages are overwhelming. Not only are its average labor
costs 90 percent under US costs, but new investment (some $3.5 billion in new textile equipment was
shipped last year) means its manufacturers can stitch garments faster than those in other low-cost
countries such as India and Vietnam. Then, too, the country’s sheer size makes it a desirable base
for garments that need to be produced in large volume.
A Few Bright Spots
Second-half 2005 may not turn out to be all that bad. Consumer confidence and spendable income
levels are still on the rise, suggesting recent gains in overall textile and apparel purchases will
continue. Also encouraging is the fact that current industry import increases haven’t been much
greater than last year — with year-to-date gains put at only 8 to 10 percent above comparable 2004
levels. If nothing else, it indicates the huge Chinese influx is being offset considerably by a
drop-off in incoming shipments from other overseas suppliers. As well, domestic textile shipment
totals this year have pretty much been holding at comparable 2004 levels. Even if some second-half
declines are factored in, the year isn’t likely to turn out to be a total disaster. Backing this
up, projections by economic forecasting firm Global Insight call for a modest 4-percent real
decline in basic mill product shipments for 2005. Even this will be partially offset by a
0.7-percent gain in textile mill products.
July/August 2005
Although each show will maintain its own identity, a single administration will allow
visitors access to all without having to register separately for each, according to Daniel Faure,
president, Première Vision. Organizers have set up a website – www.premierevision-pluriel.com – to
supply simple, easy access to all five shows.
Expofil
There were more than 31,000 visitors looking at yarns for Spring/Summer 2006 and Fall/Winter
2006-07 at the most recent Expofil. Exhibitors showed yarns for flat and circular knitting, and
weaving. Buyers asked for yarns with a luxurious hand and high performance. Fine yarn counts,
subtle luster and a soft touch are selling.
For fall, tweed and bouclé yarns are spun with mohair, cashmere, angora or microfibers for
lightness and softness. Technological developments include new fibers, yarns with therapeutic
properties and added performance.
At Switzerland-based spinner Hermann Bühler AG, a company that has been in business for
about 200 years, the most accepted yarn is SwissCotton Silver®. It contains X-Static®, a polyamide
fiber coated with pure silver and blended with extra-long-staple cotton. Hosiery, underwear,
therapeutic clothing and bandages are major end-uses. It is antimicrobial, antiodor, antistatic and
temperature-regulating.
Other Bühler yarns are spun using organic, extra-long-staple cotton. They are available in a
variety of counts. Patagonia Inc., Ventura, Calif., is a customer.
Most of the company’s yarns are ring-spun or compact-spun combed cotton. Others contain
MicroModal®. Specialties are high-twist and crepe yarns. Much of its extra-long-staple cotton is
purchased in the United States.
Another Switzerland-based company, Spoerry & Co. AG, spins extra-long-staple US Pima
cotton on a compact system it calls Nobletwin. Two rovings are joined, compacted and twisted to
form a yarn similar to a two-ply yarn. The yarn has little hairiness, high tear resistance, an
elegant sheen and a soft touch.
Spoerry Sensual yarns are spun using extra-long-staple Pima cotton twisted around a core
yarn of Lycra® using the Com4 spinning process. Other yarns contain baby alpaca, cashmere, soy or
silk, usually in blends with cotton. There are yarns containing aloe vera or aroma capsules that
have functional properties. One called Swiss Shield® is spun with a metal monofilament. Fabrics
made of this can be fine or heavy. They are flame-retardant and water-repellent.
Portugal-based spinner Textil Tearfil S.A. is the exclusive producer of dri-release® yarn
for the European market. Most of these yarns contain micropolyester and cotton. Linen and wool are
sometimes used as well. Fabrics made with dri-release transport moisture to their surface, and they
dry four times faster than traditional fabrics.
Other technical yarns at Tearfil are spun with Viloft or SeaCell® fibers. Viloft is a fiber
made from wood pulp. The lightweight, easy-care yarn has thermal, moisture management and
antistatic properties.
SeaCell also is a cellulose-based fiber. Seaweed is added to lyocell to give yarns nutrients
such as calcium, magnesium and vitamin E that are released with the aid of natural body moisture
when fabrics containing this fiber are worn next to the skin. Underwear, sleepwear and bed linens
are some of the target markets.
Pozzi Electa S.p.A., Italy, introduced its line of yarns called Crabyon® about four years
ago. Made from crab shells, this yarn also has therapeutic properties. It is antibacterial; and
clinical tests show that it prevents bedsores, relieves the pain of sunburn and – when used in
socks and rubber glove liners – is an aid to diabetics.
A new yarn that is still in development comes from flower stems. It is ultrafine and soft.
Fashion yarns at Pozzi Electa are spun with stainless steel, dyed metal, linen, bamboo,
cotton, viscose, wool and cashmere. The company specializes in fine counts and dyed yarns. Some of
its technical yarns are spun with Kevlar®.
Ojo, Japan, has a yarn made from Manila hemp that is first made into paper and then cut into
fine strips and twisted into thread. It is eco-friendly, dyes well and can be blended with other
natural or man-made fibers. The fiber is strong and smooth, and has thermal properties.
Kurabo Industries Ltd., Japan, is spinning Supima® cotton into a variety of yarns that
provide different looks and performance characteristics.
Wavy Magic, a 100-percent cotton yarn with the look and feel of linen, was developed
to recreate the cool feel of the traditional banana cloth of Okinawa, Japan. Fanon is described as
cotton with the touch of cashmere. Lunafa – wool enveloped by cotton – is lightweight, bulky,
heat-retaining and easy-care. Spinair – a hollow-core yarn spun of 100-percent cotton – is soft,
bulky, absorbent and fast-drying.
Condamin & Prodon Schwarzenbach, France, spins fine-filament nylon yarns – some blended
with wool, silk, viscose or Lycra. There are high-twist, thrown, novelty and high-tech yarns.
Becool® – a nylon yarn developed for sportswear – is breathable, and has excellent
moisture-management and thermal properties.
Cotton is the major product of France-based Robert Blondel. It is dyed, combed, plied,
compacted and mercerized. For intimate apparel, the company has developed low-pill yarns with a
soft hand. Some are spun with MicroModal or Tencel A100, a non-fibrillating lyocell. Some yarns
contain aroma capsules or carotins that are released to the skin when fabrics are rubbed. Bamboo is
another fiber the company uses.
Novelty yarns at France-based Emile Tardy/Chavanoz Industrie are selling for fine-gauge
jersey and home furnishing markets. There are polyester space-dyed bouclés, yarns with iridescent
sheen, ultrafine metallic yarns, bicolored twisted yarns, slubbed yarns and technical composite
yarns. Along with polyester, there are acetate, viscose, silk and nylon.
Best sellers at A-Dress, France, are spun with silk used alone or blended with bamboo,
cashmere, alpaca, camel hair or cotton. There are bouclé yarns, chenille yarns and fur yarns spun
with animal hair. Dyed yarns and fine yarn counts are a specialty. One new yarn is a blend of
bamboo and cashmere that combines the brightness of bamboo with the softness of cashmere.
Inwool Jersey S.r.l., Italy, produces carded Shetland, merino and lambs wool yarns and
blends with cashmere, mohair, angora or silk. There are tweed, bouclé, thick-and-thin, fancy plied
and twisted, nubbed, slubbed, soft fleece, velvet and classic yarns.
Turkey-based fancy yarn producer Ulusoy Tekstil showed a range of chenille and novelty yarns
for circular, flat-bed and hand knitting. Some are selling for upholstery fabrics. Most are blended
yarns containing combinations of acrylic, cotton, viscose, wool, nylon or metal. The firm noted
there is a return to hand knitting.
H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, a manufacturer of electronic flat knitting machines and
pattern preparation systems, introduced a new on-line database. Pattern ideas with instructions are
available at the company’s website,
www.stollpattern.com. It is updated monthly. Users can
stipulate machine types, gauges, widths and other information.
At Expofil, Stoll displayed a variety of garments, including knit-and-wear® seamless
sweaters produced using its machinery.
Italy-based OT-LAS S.p.A. displayed high-tech laser marking systems. Along with cutout
patterns and perforations, equipment can create shadow effects, blisters and the look of jacquard
patterns. The systems are fast and work on almost any fabric.
Indigo
Five thousand visitors and 160 exhibitors attended Indigo, where designs for prints, woven
patterns and application treatments covered the same two seasons as Expofil. Most of the business
done at this show was for spring.
It is not unusual for printed fabrics exhibitors to shop at Indigo when there is increased
interest in a specific trend. This season, it was African ethnics, vintage and paisleys. Flowers
always sell.
At Amanda Kelly Ltd., London, ethnics are small in scale. Application treatments include
vintage lace insets and heavily beaded patterns.
Westcott Design Ltd., also based in London, sold tonal and monotone African tribal designs.
They are not as colorful as they were last season. Chunky wooden beading and vintage embroideries
are popular treatments.
Bernini & C. S.a.s., Italy, sold florals. Tropical summer flowers had a lot of depth.
There was little interest in flat florals. For fall, ethnics continue and paisleys are strong.
Variations include patchwork paisley designs.
Another Italy-based company, Avantgard S.r.l., had a bit of everything. Paisleys are classic
and sober. Patterns that have the look of old tapestry designs are beginning to sell. Ethnics come
from Africa and the Middle East. Lurex® is popular.
Tom Cody Design Inc., New York City, had one of the most crowded stands at the show. The
firm has opened offices in London to handle European markets.
“Almost anything ethnic is selling,” Cody said. “We are doing well with bright colors and
beaded application treatments, especially wooden beads.” He also pointed out ikats.
Karen Moller, Paris, said buyers come to her for small, sophisticated geometric print ideas.
Retro florals are another popular look. She showed graphic designs reminiscent of Pucci in the
1970s and was surprised at the strong reaction.
RadiciSpandex Graduates
From High School And Goes To College
This year for the first time, Gastonia, N.C.-based RadiciSpandex Corp. presented its
“Stretch to the Future” student design awards to undergraduates at New York City-based Pratt
Institute College of Art and Design’s department of fashion design. In years past, recipients were
students at New York City’s High School for Fashion Industries. In making the change, the company
noted that Pratt – founded in 1887 – is the oldest college for fashion design in the United States.
Stan Herman served as designer judge and honoree. President of the Council of Fashion
Designers of America, Herman designs loungewear and uniforms for such companies as Avis, TWA and
McDonalds.
Most of the RadiciSpandex entrants, who comprised a field of students from the junior and
senior classes, showed swimwear designs, all in black and white combinations.
Along with apparel design, prints and patterns were created by the students. Their work was
judged for originality, best use of fabric, design interpretation and construction.
The grand prize winner was Sheena Murai. First prize went to Kristina Paulsen, and second
prize to Beryl Crocker. Their designs were shown at Pratt’s 106th annual fashion show.
July/August 2005
The EdgeBanding machine from Sonobond Ultrasonics, West Chester, Pa., uses ultrasonic energy and
Sonobond’s SoftSeam process to seam and seal in just one pass, producing soft, smooth edges without
using thread or glue. Designed for lingerie and other intimate apparel, the bonder is suited for
100-percent man-made fabrics and blends that contain up to 40-percent natural fibers, microfiber,
stretch, tri-action and high-performance materials.
The machine includes a specially designed guide, metering and tension device, binding tape
dispenser, and interchangeable roller patterns for edge banding and hemming.
July/August 2005
Despite China’s announced plans to permit its currency to float, textile and other manufacturers
don’t see much of an impact on what they see as a major international trade subsidy as a result of
China’s currency manipulation. Even Chinese government officials have warned the action will not
have much of an effect on trade. China’s central bank issued a statement saying, Certain foreign
media have misled the public and even wrongly speculated that the revaluation by two percent was
only the first step in a series of adjustments. The action does not in the least imply an initial
move which warrants further actions in the future.
Although conceding that the move was a step in the right direction, South Carolina Rep. John
Spratt, the assistant House Democratic leader and ranking member of the House Budget Committee,
said the small percentage change is not enough to affect the US $162 billion trade deficit with
China. Spratt is one of the sponsors of legislation that would levy tariffs of 27.5 percent on
goods from China if the Chinese government does not allow its currency to float on the open market.
He said China’s currency is undervalued at between 15 and 40 percent, and as a result, China’s
exports to the United States area cheaper and US exports to China are more expensive. The result,
he said, is that We do not have a level playing field for our manufacturing firms and we are going
to lose the manufacturing sector and some of the best jobs in our economy. On the other hand,
retailers said they hoped the move would ease concerns in Congress over the currency discrepancy.
Eric Autor, vice president of the National Retail Federation, said: To the extent that this
alleviates concerns on Capitol Hill, retailers may feel more comfortable about ordering merchandise
from China. A number of major retailers have limited orders in recent months because of the
unpredictability brought by safeguards cases, pending legislation and other moves to restrict trade
with China. Retailers are looking for stability and predictability. Knowing that a major order wont
be blocked by political decisions is more important than minor fluctuations in price brought by
currency revaluation.
July 2005
