The next edition of the Advanced Textiles Association’s AT Expo takes place in Anaheim this September.
TW Special Report
After multiple iterations held in east coast cities, the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA) is taking its Advanced Textiles (AT) Expo to the west coast for the 2024 edition. The expo will take place at the Anaheim Convention Center in Anaheim, Calif. Education sessions begin on September 23 and the show floor is open September 24-26, 2024.
“ATA is excited to host the textile industry at Advanced Textiles Expo in Anaheim, California, September 24-26,” said Steve Schiffman, ATA president and CEO. “Being in California allows us to reach new people that may not travel to the east coast. Advanced Textiles Expo continues to bring thousands of textiles professionals who serve many markets together for education, networking, and an exhibit floor full of textiles/materials, new innovations, and equipment.
“This year’s show has several new features including the Next Gen(eration) Takeover Day, the Tex-tiles Challenge, programming on specialty textiles, shade and weather and emerging technologies.”
What To Expect
The show will again be collocated with Messe Stuttgart’s Sun Shading Expo North America, which will be held September 24-26, 2024. According to ATA, the collocation of the events for these two complementary industries offers value in terms of connecting with customers, suppliers, end-product manufacturers, and industry counterparts, as well as providing growth opportunities. Attendees have access to both events including the combined show floor, show floor education and networking receptions. The only exceptions are AT Expo’s conference, which is only open to AT Expo registrants; and Sun Shading Expo classroom education, which is only open to Sun Shading Expo registrants.
The show floor will feature the ATA Hub, which is a great place to learn more about ATA or join a member division open meeting. Also on the show floor, ATA announced the return of a pet rescue fundraising booth, as well as the Demo Booth —a hands-on educational space for makers and materials suppliers.
The optional add-on AT Expo Annual Fun Run/Walk will take place Wednesday morning, September 25, at 6 a.m. Participants will meet at the Hilton Anaheim and be led by experienced locals on a walk or run through Anaheim. Runners can choose a pace group and distance —1 mile or 5 kilometers. Proceeds benefit the Work Ethic Scholarship Fund.
New Features
ATA has planned several new features for attendees at the upcoming expo. The Next Gen(eration) Takeover Day is Wednesday, September 25. At 10 a.m., a hands-on LEGO™ net-working workshop will take place on the show floor. Designed to foster new connections and teach industry concepts, teams will collaborate to build Lego models that represent key elements of the industry. Later that afternoon, from 12:30-2:30 p.m., The NextGen Textiles Meet-up will take place. This fun activity begins with participants building a Lego avatar to represent their personal style. Afterwards, fast-paced networking rounds will give participants the chance to meet new people and mingle with industry influencers.
The Textiles Challenge, another new show feature, is a skill-testing, hands-on activity featuring — as the name suggests — textile challenges. Preview and practice rounds will take place on Tuesday, September 24, with qualifying rounds and the final round taking place on Wednesday.
On Thursday, ATA is giving women a chance to connect before the show floor opens. Interested attendees should gather at the Hilton Anaheim at 7 a.m. for the Women’s Networking Walk. Following the walk, women can participate in a leadership session titled “Balancing Priorities for Success” at 9:30 a.m. The session begins with a keynote followed by a panel discussion featuring industry leaders who will share their perspectives and advice. Wrapping up the event is a development session on strategies for establishing boundaries and setting priorities to obtain a work/life balance.
Nighttime Fun
To kick things off, the Professional Awning Manufacturers Association (PAMA) is hosting the Awning Pub Night at Bowlero Anaheim on Monday, September 23 at 5 p.m. RSVP’s are required by August 26.
On Tuesday, September 24, AT Expo will host the official opening reception at 4 p.m. The reception is included with all registration types to give all participants the chance to mix and mingle to wrap up the first full day.
Those who opt to purchase a separate ticket when registering can move from the opening reception to Industry Night, which this year will be held at the Anaheim House of Blues starting at 7 p.m. As always, live music will be provided by ATA member band Hangin’ by a Thread.
Education
The one-and-a-half day Emerging Technologies Conference begins with a full day of presentations on Monday, September 23, and an Emerging Technologies Networking Reception at the close of the sessions. On Tuesday, additional sessions will be held in the morning. Topics will cover a variety of subjects from healthcare and electronic textiles to green chemistry and testing. A full lineup of speakers and topics is available on the AT Expo website.
Education continues on the Emerging Technologies show floor stage beginning Tuesday afternoon. These more informal, 30-minute sessions are designed to be interactive and digestible.
For more information about Advanced Textiles Expo — including the full conference schedule with speakers — as well as to register, please visit advancedtextiles expo.com.
The materials and process engineering conference recently convened in Long Beach, Calif., for its 2024 edition.
By Jim Kaufmann, Technical Editor
The Society for the Advancement of Material and Process Engineering (SAMPE) held its annual conference and exhibition, SAMPE 2024, in Long Beach, Calif., recently. However, unlike other trade shows and conventions, a SAMPE event really does have the feel of a large family reunion or maybe a college alumni event. Truth be told, as an organization focused mainly on materials and process engineering, SAMPE events tend to take on a different look and feel than a typical textile conference. Part of this difference comes from the fact that SAMPE is a global, member-driven organization with regional chapters throughout North America, as well as other global geographic locations. In North America alone, there are 23 regional member chapters and currently 49 different student chapters at colleges and universities. A list of global, regional and student chapters can be found on SAMPE’s website, sampe.org.
Many SAMPE event participants— either exhibitor, conference speakers or general attendees —have been a SAMPE member since their days as a college or university student — which for some of us translates into a lot of years. That level of familiarity creates a different type of energy or synergy, almost like a homecoming at these events, and this year was no exception.
In general, a SAMPE conference and exhibition focuses more on the technical and engineering aspects of materials, and as such, the material focus has evolved more towards composites and fiber reinforced plastics segments. The aerospace industry abounds as a starting point for many discussions as its testing, evaluation and acceptance of new materials and processes often sets the standards for other industries and applications to follow. The majority of discussions certainly have a business intent, but the bulk of those conversations center more around performance attributes. Conference programs tend to focus on technical concepts, new or advanced processes and problem solving, while CAMX, JEC and other events tend to focus more on product introductions and increasing sales. As such, SAMPE events are generally smaller than CAMX, and certainly the JEC trade fairs, but unquestionably still remain viable and worthy of participation.
This year’s SAMPE event drew more than 200 exhibitors and 2,700 visitors.
“In my opinion, SAMPE was a function of quality over quantity,” stated Eric Smith, vice president of sales and marketing for Re:Build Manufacturing based in Framingham, Mass. “This location [Long Beach] continues to prove itself to be one of the flagship locations for this event given its proximity to aerospace, defense and composites companies and contractors. The SAMPE staff’s engagement and coordination was instrumental in the success of the show.”
“SAMPE shows are always a good opportunity to see and interact with industry colleagues,” offered Judy Johnson, business development manager for carbon fiber manufacturer Hyosung Advanced Materials. “This year’s show had plenty of traffic in the exhibit hall where good discussions ensued.”
One inspiring observation made during this year’s SAMPE conference and exhibition was the number of younger people in attendance. It is nice to see SAMPE’s emphasis on getting young people involved in engineering pursuits, which starts with the student chapters at the colleges and universities. These student chapters not only provide the name recognition, but also prompt students to get involved in a number of different ways while learning at the same time. At SAMPE 2024, there were student poster sessions on a variety of topics that received awards, as well as awards for technical papers, which in many cases featured student input.
Keynote speaker Stephen Heinz, vice president of Research and Innovation at Belgium-based Syensqo Corp., stopped at one point during his presentation to ask the students in the audience to stand. Heinz then suggested that the students and professionals in the audience introduce themselves and encouraged each to not only make an impact on the industry, but perhaps each other’s professional career as well. Several networking events were held throughout the event for the young professionals that also promoted diversity, equality and inclusion in all facets of the event and their professional lives throughout the industry.
SAMPE has always featured student competitions and this year was no exception. This year’s events included additive manufacturing, building a fuselage, and the tried-and-true building a bridge contest that featured several different structural categories. Student groups organized, designed and built prototypes that were brought to SAMPE and physically tested on the show floor throughout the day. What other trade show allows attendees to watch tests of scaled fuselage or bridge segments while student engineers and others in the crowd cheer teams on or groan at a premature failure?
SAMPE student chapters in many cases are supported by the SAMPE regional chapters, which through sponsorships and fundraisers, can provide travel funds or assistance making it easier for the students to attend SAMPE events. Many regional chapters also establish student scholarships to help pay a portion of the student’s education and housing costs.
Regional SAMPE chapters hold their own events to generate income, promote networking and other social activities geared at building camaraderie, the chapter’s presence and professional community standing. A fine example of this occurred during this year’s Long Beach event as the Carolinas Chapter hosted a farewell party for Tom Haulik, the recently retired director of carbon fiber sales for Hexcel Corp., Stamford, Conn. Haulik didn’t invent carbon fiber, but he certainly has been instrumental in selling it over the years. His presence and standing in the composites industry were confirmed by the many attendees who came to thank him for all his friendship, support and guidance throughout a distinguished career. In a fitting tribute, Haulik was named the Honorary Lifetime Ambassador of SAMPE’s Carolinas Chapter.
Next year’s SAMPE 2025 Conference is slated for May 19-22, 2025, in Indianapolis, Ind. But also remember to check out and support your local SAMPE chapter’s upcoming events. Along with the national events, these local chapter happenings provide excellent opportunities to network, talk business and occasionally have a bit of fun. Hope to see you there!
Techtextil opened with a panel discussion on opportunities presented by artificial intelligence. (Image courtesy of Messe Frankfurt/Thomas Fedra)
The recent Techtextil and Texprocess shows in Frankfurt, Germany, showcased the best of the industry in a one-stop-shop environment.
By Jim Kaufmann, Technical Editor
Techtextil, the biennial trade fair organized by Messe Frankfurt in Frankfurt, Germany, is considered to be the granddaddy of global trade events focused on the technical textiles industry. Collocated with Texprocess — a sister show focused on processing textiles and flexible materials — it is considered a significant and important industry event for the global exhibitors and visitors who participate. For readers who haven’t been, this big brother to Techtextil North America, also organized by Messe Frankfurt, is akin to one spending a couple of days at the largest shopping mall in North America, the Mall of America. There, one can find a store and shop for pretty much any consumer good imaginable. In a similar fashion, between Techtextil and Texprocess, virtually every aspect of the technical, industrial and performance textiles marketplace and supply chain is to be found in Frankfurt.
This year’s combined Techtextil and Texprocess hosted more than 1,700 exhibitors from 53 different countries. During the four-day event these exhibitors greeted more than 38,000 visitors from 102 different countries. “I felt it was very well attended and the quality of visitors was exceptional,” offered Torry Losch, chief commercial officer, Hailide America Inc., a polyester and tire cord manufacturer based in Alpharetta, Ga. “All visitors to our booth were high-quality customers, or potential customers, who fit well within our target markets. Well worth the trip, and I look forward to the next one in two years!”
“For us Techtextil was very good,” added Will Motchar, president and CEO of Navis TubeTex, a finishing machinery manufacturer based in Lexington, N.C. “A lot of potential projects were discussed with current and new customers around our finishing technologies that offer significant energy, water, and chemical savings.”
In general terms, Techtextil encompasses all aspects involved in developing, producing and/or enhancing an input material or textile, while Texprocess focuses on taking that input textile or material and assembling it into a product. Having Techtextil and Texprocess under one umbrella event allows visitors in many cases the opportunity to seek out every aspect of the industry’s supply chain from raw material development and manufacturing to that raw material evolving into a textile, potentially adding a performance enhancement of some sort, and then exploring the technologies necessary to assemble that textile into an end product like a piece of clothing, running shoe, automotive airbag, personal protective equipment, composite structure or any of thousands of other products.
Having Techtextil and Texprocess together in one space also allows for unique synergies via the intermingling of technologies and varied mindsets throughout the different segments in the exhibit halls. For example, a fashion designer can interact with all components of their existing supply chain, and also venture into other segments of either the textile or processing sides to gain inspiration from a completely different sector that they may not interact with during their usual daily tasks. It really can’t be stressed enough how important these unexpected synergies continue to lead to innovations throughout all aspects of the industry.
As with most recent trade fairs, two primary overriding themes were prevalent throughout both Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors; the continuous incremental and occasionally step-change improvements being made throughout all aspects of product functionality and the continued global importance and commitment to product and corporate sustainability, recycling and circularity.
20 Years Of Techtextil
This year’s Techtextil marked an anniversary as it was the 20th edition of the show. The first event, held in 1986, was a much smaller affair than today’s large-scale extravaganza, but some of the exhibitors who were at that first fair still participate in Techtextil almost 40 years later. Organizers honored those founding companies with a plaque and bottle of champagne as a thank you during a special ceremony on the second day of the fair. According to Messe Frankfurt: “Their commitment and passion have made Techtextil what it is today: a beacon of innovation and a meeting place for industry experts.”
The “Regenerative? Moving Beyond Sustainability” showcase introduced Techtextil visitors to a variety of homegrown, natural fiber products and unique biomaterials.
With the industry’s overall focus on sustainability, there was a notable increase in the number of exhibitors showing performance materials incorporating natural fibers at Techtextil. President Clare King and Product Design and Development Lead Birgit Leitner with Propel LLC, a product innovation company based in Providence, R.I., spoke about the changing times and also found inspiration during Techtextil. “We were last at Techtextil in 2019, prior to COVID and there found a high level of focus around e-textiles which were highly represented back then,” Leitner said. “What stood out to us this year, was the shift from e-textiles to a very strong focus on sustainability. Both large and small companies have embraced this trend, showcasing innovations in sustainable materials, eco-friendly production processes and circular economy solutions.” The women noted that the “Sustainability@Techtextil” label allowed visitors to easily identify these companies. They also found the curated section titled “Regenerative? Moving Beyond Sustainability” incorporating key-words such as “Cultivating Localism,” “Enriching Communities,” “Replenishing the Land,” “Radical Transparency,” “Naturally Abundant,” “Biological Fabrication,” “Preserving Heritage,” and “Restoring Biodiversity” interesting and rather inspiring.
A few companies focused on natural products that Leitner and King mentioned were:
Kombinat Konopny, a Poland-based vertically integrated hemp company;
Lavalan®/Baur Vliesstoffe GmbH, a Germany-based company focused on increasing awareness of homegrown wool and it’s many performance-based uses;
Studio Sarmite, a research and design studio in Frankfurt focused on creating closed-loop concepts through transforming industry waste and its byproducts; and
Malai Eco, an India and Slovakia-based company that is developing flexible, biocomposite materials made from organic bacterial cellulose grown on agricultural waste sourced from the coconut industry in Southern India, which have a feel comparable to leather and paper.
In addition, one couldn’t help but notice the growing focus on “better living through chemistry.” New technologies observed centered around chemistries that can turn polymers into biodegradable forms, generate natural fibers, enhance processing and processability of combined materials, improve colors and color fastness, impart specific performance characteristics, among other attributes.
Texprocess
Not to be outdone, Texprocess showcased innovative processing technologies targeting the cut, sew and converting industries. Artificial intelligence (AI) was featured prominently in a number of areas. AI is now being employed in a number of ways to improve cutting room layouts and nesting efficiencies, aid in the use of raw materials and energy consumption, catalogue assorted samples and physical parameters that can then be used for quality refinements, just to name a few applications. Innovative machine designs, enhancements, tooling and technologies including robotics are being employed in order to improve efficiencies as well as allowing these facilities to be able to do more with less numbers of human labor requirements. This is not necessarily to reduce headcounts as some may fear, but more an answer to the lack of qualified and skilled workers in many of these areas.
Frank Henderson, president and CEO of Henderson Sewing Machine Co., a sewing industry equipment supplier based in Andalusia, Ala., felt that: “Texprocess was a good setting that provided industry leaders highlights into the state-of-the-art design, cutting, sewing and manufacturing possibilities in this vital, global textile supply chain. Techtextil once again demonstrated the technical textile industry’s innovations and advances in automation, digitization and creativity while once again illustrating its continuing importance to the global economy!”
Techtextil North America will also take place this year, in Raleigh, N.C. (See “Raleigh Homecoming,” TW, this issue). The next Techtextil/Texprocess trade fair will be held April 21-24, 2026, in Frankfurt. A trade fair well worth the effort to attend!
The SYFA recently held its spring conference in Charlotte, N.C., under the theme “Creativity, The Economy and Policy In 2024.”
TW Special Report
The Charlotte, N.C.-based Synthetic Yarn and Fabrics Association (SYFA) recently held its annual spring conference at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel in Charlotte.
The conference, entitled “Creativity, The Economy and Policy In 2024,” covered topics on the economy, technical fiber developments and trade.
Outgoing SYFA President Hardy Sullivan of Thies Corp. opened the event with a review of recent SYFA activities. The association also conducted a business meeting where it installed new President Meredith Boyd of Unifi Inc., as well as new board members (See sidebar).
On behalf of the membership, SYFA Secretary and Treasurer Alasdair Carmichael thanked Sullivan for his service to the organization, particularly during the celebration of its 50th anniversary, which occurred during his tenure.
A Variety Of Presentations
The event’s first speaker was Piedmont Crescent Capital’s Mark Vitner, whose “Economic Update” presentation reviewed the economic climate the industry is facing. Vitner, a well-known economist in U.S. textile circles, was realistic about the economic challenges facing textiles and the challenges of a global environment in a post-pandemic election year.
Andrew Talarico and Taylor Greene from Circ Inc. in Danville, Va., discussed the challenges of developing a circular product lifecycle that captures and recycles textile waste throughout the supply chain and at garments end-of-life in their presentation named “Addressing Textile Waste — a Blueprint for an Industry Wide Shift.”
Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, The Nonwovens Institute (NWI), offered a presentation on designing polylactic acid (PLA) blends titled “Promising Materials Development Using PLA.” He noted that for this sustainable fiber to be an option in nonwovens, there needs to be an emphasis on elongation properties that enhance performance.
Fibers That Promote Health
With “The Future of Health and Wellness is…,” Jordan Schindler, C2 Clothing 2.0, discussed developments in using textiles for controlled delivery of therapeutics, as well as the bright horizon for new product development beyond what is currently available in the marketplace.
“Neolast™ Stretch Fiber from Celanese” was presented by Celanese’s Rick Tobar. This new polyester development offers elastane-like stretch characteristics and performance, while mitigating elastane’s sustainability issues (See “Quality Fabric: NEOLAST™: A New Way To Stretch,” TW, this issue).
Jasmine Cox offered a “Textile Technology Center Overview” of Gaston College, highlighting the Textile Technology Center’s focus on training and newly created in-depth programs that were developed to support manufacturing.
SYFA board member Bart Krulic, Palmetto Synthetics LLC, explored opportunities offered in synthetic fiber development in a presentation titled “For Staple Fibers…What if?” Krulic focused on product development and innovation by considering the “what if?” idea of creating performance fibers using an array of polymers.
Michael Hubbard of the Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina (EDPNC), presented “Opportunities in International Markets.” Hubbard, well-known for his long history with the industry, offered companies a look at unlocking new opportunities by exporting their products. He also introduced new EDPNC hire Jeri Barutis, highlighting her expertise in trade and textiles.
The final presentation of the conference was delivered by Pete Mento with DSV Air and Sea Inc. His discussion, titled “Shifting Economic & Geopolitical Issues Continue to Create Challenges for Supply Chains,” was dynamic and his background in standup comedy certainly helped him engage the crowd on less-than-exciting economic issues.
Conference sponsors included Diamond Sponsor Premier Fibers Inc.; Gold Sponsor Jomar Softcorp International Inc.; Silver Sponsors Goulston Technologies Inc., Pulcra Chemicals LLC and Unifi Inc.; Bronze Sponsors Burlington and DAK Americas LLC; and Patrons Milliken & Company and Polyspintex Inc. Gaston College Foundation also hosted an exhibit table at the conference.
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Economist Mark Vitner
Alasdair Carmichael, NAPCOR
Andrew Talarico, Circ Inc.
Taylor Greene, Circ Inc.
Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, The Nonwovens Institute
Jordan Schindler, C2 Clothing 2.0
Rick Tobar, Celanese
Jasmine Cox, Textile Technology Center
Bart Krulic, Palmetto Synthetics
Mike Hubbard, Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina (EDPNC)
Pete Mento, DSV Air and Sea Inc.
Meredith Boyd, Unifi
A Forward Focus
Closing remarks were given by newly instated SYFA President Boyd. She has been an active member of SYFA for many years, and a generosity and willingness to share her knowledge and experience of the fiber industry have always been a great asset to SYFA.
SYFA will hold its fall conference October 24-25, 2024, at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel.
ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. — July 18, 2024 — In a big win for global sustainability and footwear performance initiatives, Gold Long John, the world’s leading innovative supplier of fabric to global footwear brands is applying EMPEL® Nø-Wick™ waterless and PFAS-free finishing platform in its Vietnam mill supply chain.
The EMPEL Nø-Wick product stands apart by preventing wicking more effectively than any competing chemistry while remaining 100-percent water-free and PFAS-free. The adoption by top footwear fabric supplier Gold Long John is instrumental in creating sustainable, high performing footwear for many leading footwear brands around the world.
“Our Oeko Tex-certified EMPEL platform is a solution for the future,” said Martin Flora, president of Global Business Development with GTT. “It creates the highest performing finishes available, all without the use of water or PFAS chemicals. Gold Long John was our first major footwear mill adopter in Asia and has been instrumental in providing the commercial readiness needed for major footwear brands to easily adopt EMPEL Nø-Wick. Because of their contribution and input, we’re now able to scale our clean chemistry throughout SE Asia and make a real difference in the fight against water, carbon and chemical pollution, all while providing the world’s best performance.”
Gold Long John is known as a market leader and innovator in the production of performance footwear fabrics and was the first major footwear mill that helped GTT commercialize EMPEL. In 2023, Gold Long John installed the EMPEL proprietary production machinery in its Vietnam factory and is now moving forward with plans to install machinery in its Taiwan facility. The proprietary machinery changes the way in which anti-wicking chemistries are molecularly bonded to footwear, protecting them from inclement weather.
“Green Theme and their EMPEL products will help us stay at the forefront of global sustainability solutions, allowing us to supply our footwear brands with highly innovative, cleaner, better performing materials for their products,” said Kevin Wen, president of Gold Long John. “We see this as a win for us, for our partner brands, and for global environmental sustainability efforts.”
EMPEL Nø-Wick challenges the market perception that cleaner manufacturing processes mean loss of performance. The opposite is true, as efficient manufacturing performs better, reduces waste, and lasts longer. The benefits are obvious.
The EU’s Digital Product Passport (DPP) initiative will accelerate the transition to a global circular economy.
Impacted companies need to start thinking about technology strategies in order to comply with the coming EU Digital Product Passport mandate.
By Megan Brewster
Set to impact any company worldwide that sells products in the European Union, the fast-approaching Digital Product Passport (DPP) mandate is a first-of-its-kind regulatory framework designed to create transparency around product information and accelerate the transition to a circular economy.
Under the new DPP regulations, most end-use and intermediate products sold in the European Union will require a DPP by 2030. The DPP is a type of virtual label with information about a product’s origin, materials used, manufacturing processes, recyclability and more. By providing details about a product’s journey and environmental impact, the goal is for DPPs to empower consumers to make more informed purchasing decisions and pave the way for a greener, more ethical future. This foundational framework is expected to become the information backbone of the global circular economy.
Any company that sells products in the European Union will be impacted by the new DPP regulations, including U.S. companies, which exported more than $350 billion in goods to the European Union in 2022 alone. However, even with the best intentions, many of these companies lack access to the information across their supply chain that is required by this legislation. While mandates directly impacting manufacturers and retailers are still a few years out, it is important to start preparing now to stay ahead of the regulatory curve.
What Is A Digital Product Passport?
A DPP is a digital record containing key information related to a product’s composition, origin and lifecycle. Under the forthcoming legislation, companies selling products in Europe will need to collect and share detailed data on an item’s verified sustainability attributes via DPP, including information about the materials used, manufacturing processes and recyclability. Most products sold in the European Union, from tires and building supplies to clothing and laundry detergent, will require this attached identifier.
To understand the DPP legislation, it’s important to understand the broader regulatory framework that underpins it. The EU Green Deal, set forth by the European Commission in 2020, is aimed at reducing emissions by 55 percent and making the European Union climate neutral by 2050. As part of this deal, the commission brought forth the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). Set to reshape the way products are manufactured, distributed, and reintegrated into a circular economy, the ESPR is a broader framework, delegating the responsibility for establishing granular rules to future regulation through delegated acts. While some delegated acts are set to focus on specific product categories, others will expand on technical and operational elements, such as rules around DPPs.
Verified product data accompanies the product throughout its lifecycle.
Who Will Be Impacted Under DPP Legislation?
In this new regulatory landscape, the responsibility for ensuring compliance with DPPs extends beyond the borders of the European Union. Not only will finished products sold in the European Union need to adhere to DPP regulations, but also any components, materials, or semi-finished goods involved in their production, regardless of their origin.
This will dramatically reshape global value chains, necessitating suppliers and manufacturers worldwide to gather and submit the DPP data for their products destined for the European market.
While specific data likely will vary by product category, product sellers will be required to report on the following under DPP legislation:
Potential for repair, maintenance, refurbishment and upgrades;
Presence of harmful substances;
Resource consumption or efficiency;
Recycled materials content;
Reusability, remanufacturing and recycling potential;
Environmental impacts, including carbon footprint; and
Anticipated waste generation.
As identified by the European Commission, several priority categories — for both finished end-use products and intermediate materials and components — are among the first required to create DPPs for goods produced. These priorities include sellers of batteries, textiles — garments and footwear — iron and steel, aluminum, furniture — including mattresses — tires, detergents, paints, lubricants, chemicals, and electronics. The commission also has stated that it maintains the power to extend the list of currently prioritized categories in the future to include products such as toys, cars and construction-related materials.
Among those set to be the most impacted by the mandate in its earliest stages of rollout are textile and apparel companies, retailers and manufacturers. A study by the Panel for the Future of Science and Technology (STOA) — a group of Members of the European Parliament — surveyed more than 80 stakeholders to examine the benefits and challenges of DPP deployment within the textile industry. The textile and fashion sectors already face a number of critical challenges including negative impacts on natural resources as a result of fast-fashion, shortages of raw material, rising labor, energy, and water costs, as well as controversies surrounding practices within the textile industry. Against the backdrop of these challenges, the STOA study examined where DPPs will drive the most value in the industry.
STOA found that the consensus among surveyed stakeholders is that DPPs are a positive step towards sustainable product lifecycle management and increasing the circularity of textiles in the European market, and beyond. However, the study also found significant challenges among respondents regarding deployment. Among the top challenges reported in making the DPP feasible within the textile industry are ensuring access for all stakeholders of circularity, including companies that do not have the complex technologies necessary to digitize their supply chains. In addition to costs, data security, and potential impacts on global supply chains and businesses, the need for harmonization of regulations, market surveillance and traceability also were reported concerns. These challenges highlight the need for a unified framework and technical standards to help companies navigating the new DPP mandate.
RAIN RFID allows companies to instantly access a product’s full digital record by linking to its digital twin in the cloud.
Meeting Compliance Requirements Using RAIN RFID
Alongside reporting requirements, the DPP framework sets out technical standards regarding how data should be presented and managed. To provide this DPP information, a physical “data carrier” must be attached to products. This data carrier — potentially taking the form of a QR code; a battery-free, wireless RAIN radio frequency identification (RFID) tag; or another identifier —will link the physical product to its digital twin in the cloud, giving brands and consumers full visibility into data regarding materials used, ownership history, and instructions on recycling or proper disposal.
RAIN RFID, a passive, battery-free wireless technology that relies on radio frequency identification to connect items directly to the internet, is a strong candidate to be part of a DPP compliance solution. The technology already is widely used by retailers and logistics companies for inventory management, product authentication, shipment verification and more. This “wireless barcode” connects to detailed information regarding the specific model, batch, and individual unit through a machine-readable format that can be both maintained and easily updated.
Combined with QR codes, RAIN RFID tags would provide a secure, consumer-friendly approach for companies to meet critical requirements under the DPP legislation today. RAIN RFID systems enable businesses to identify, locate, authenticate, and engage with every product tagged with a RAIN RFID tag providing real-time insights. Alongside compliance requirements, companies gain additional benefits from the adoption of RAIN RFID into their everyday operations. Offering item-level tracking throughout the full supply chain, RAIN RFID deployment is already helping businesses to solve their most forefront challenges including counterfeiting, inventory management and overstocks. The technology is also helping businesses modernize operations, supporting circular business models, and driving sustainability initiatives, which will ensure businesses meet the fast-approaching guidelines under the European Union’s DPP mandate. With RAIN RFID readers designed to be embedded in a variety of forms — including small, hand-held form factors — it’s not hard to envision a not-too-distant future where consumers also are able to read RAIN RFID tags using their smartphone, meaning anyone can read the information embedded on tagged products’ DPPs.
Next Steps Ahead Of The Rollout Of The DPP
With the first DPP deadline approaching in July 2024, it is crucial for impacted parties to begin preparing to stay ahead of the regulatory curve. The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products (ESPR) legislation — which creates a framework for DPPs — is planned to be ratified into EU law in July 2024. Following this, in December 2025, European standards organizations CEN/CLC/JTC24 will deliver harmonized standards for the DPP system. Two key dates in 2026 include the publication of the delegated act for textiles — in January — and iron and steel products — in April. These dates start the clock for respective compliance deadlines 18 months later, mandating a DPP for all products in these categories sold in the European Union — July 2027 for textiles and October 2027 for iron and steel products. In February 2027, the Battery Passport regulation is set to take effect, requiring a DPP for all transport, industrial, and electric vehicle batteries placed on the EU market.
Positioned to redefine industry standards, the rollout of the DPP over the next three years will improve transparency and accountability into the overall environmental sustainability of products worldwide. As the first big-mover legislation of its kind, the European Commission’s DPP is already setting a precedent that is inspiring similar initiatives globally.
In the United States, for example, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) is pushing Congress to revise labeling regulations to incorporate the use of digital labels. This signals the EU’s model may become the global standard, requiring companies worldwide to make DPP compliance a strategic priority.
In efforts to mitigate trade barriers for greener products and lower costs for sustainable investments and compliance, the European Union has set out to develop the DPP mandate in an open dialogue alongside international partners, while working with partner countries to assess potential impacts globally. Impacted companies should start taking steps now to ensure they have the right technology strategies in place to prepare for the DPP. The deployment of RAIN RFID as part of a DPP compliance mix means that businesses can take full advantage of its benefits, ensuring they’re meeting DPP mandates while solving key business challenges and driving new innovations and business value more broadly.
Editor’s Note: Megan Brewster is the vice president of advanced technology at Seattle-based Impinj, a provider of RAIN radio frequency identification technologies. Prior to joining Impinj, Brewster served as fellow and senior policy advisor for advanced manufacturing for the White House Office of Science and Technology Policy, where she supported the stand-up of the administration’s signature advanced manufacturing initiative.
OBERTSHAUSEN, Germany — July 18, 2024 — The registered cooperative VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub, is using three ADF machines from STOLL and digital solutions from KM.ON — both brands of the KARL MAYER GROUP — to equip its microfactory currently under construction in Berlin’s Bikinihaus. The platform is intended to bring together academics, brands, research institutes, start-ups and SMEs to create new ways of achieving greater sustainability and ethos. The goal is a fashion industry with a positive balance sheet. The pixel-to-product microfactory offers innovative hardware and software solutions for the physical, digital or hybrid implementation and testing of promising concepts, products and processes.
One of STOLL’s machines for the VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub project
“We are delighted to be involved in the Fashion Microfactory project, because with our machines, which are predestined for efficient customization thanks to their enormous patterning flexibility, and with our digital solutions, which significantly shorten lead times, we have been focusing on the topic of made-to-order for a long time and hope to gain new impetus and contacts,” says Michael Händel, Vice President Sales & Service at STOLL.
Marte Hentschel (left) and Oliver Lange (right), the co-CEOs of VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub and Michael Händel, Vice President Sales & Service at STOLL, after signing the contracts for the delivery of the STOLL machines
The contracts for the delivery of the flat knitting machines were signed on July 9 at STOLL’s headquarters in Reutlingen. my TEXTILE NEWS editor Ulrike Schlenker took advantage of the visit by the two co-CEOs of VORN, Prof. Marte Hentschel and Oliver Lange, to talk to them about their project.
Schlenker: You have just returned from a tour of the company. What is your impression of STOLL?
Oliver Lange: I am still very enthusiastic. Great, creative, innovative people work here who drive their company forward.
STOLL “breathes” German engineering and demonstrates continuity with its long history. At the same time, you can sense a great pioneering spirit. I experience STOLL as a strong, innovative, future-oriented manufacturer with entrepreneurial spirit and creativity. Its product strategy is impressive. With its machines, STOLL is close to the consumer market in many sectors and therefore has its finger on the pulse of time.
Schlenker: Let’s take a look at your pixel-to-product microfactory. What do you want to achieve with it?
Michael Händel: We were commissioned by the Berlin Senate Department for Economics, Energy and Public Enterprises to bring together design and manufacturing with technological innovation and sustainability. The aim is to make economic action and a sense of responsibility tangible, i.e. not just to talk about the necessary sustainability transformation, but to take action. In our demonstration factory, we offer low-threshold access to everything that is necessary for this: machines, software and services so that progressive players can pilot their changes quickly and then scale them up for the market. We create all the prerequisites for fast, market-oriented and price-conscious implementation of small series. This saves storage, material and return costs, reduces environmental impact and ensures more resilient supply chains in response to the challenges of our time. In addition, direct-to-customer production offers exciting margins and marketing opportunities – all advantages that make our pixel-to-product microfactory particularly interesting for brands. To take full advantage of this, we work with innovative partners from the entire value chain, from yarn suppliers to retailers.
Schlenker: STOLL is one of the partners, why?
Händel: We have the same idea of cooperation and want to develop things further with courage, strength and curiosity.
Lange: STOLL plays an active role in shaping the future. As a consequence we emphasize on sustainability and digitalization. We believe in the same things and drive them forward in the same way.
Händel: In addition to the shared set of values, we were impressed by the company’s flat knitting machines. They offer unique possibilities for the economical production of small batches, particularly with regard on demand production close to the market and garments that are seamless, i.e. with virtually little in the manufacturing process. This makes them a perfect fit for our concept. We also want to integrate STOLL’s customers into our network in order to scale up production to industrial levels.
Schlenker: The machines are due to be installed in August. What are the next steps?
Händel: The opening of the Microfactory is planned for October. Preparations are in full swing. We are currently fitting out the premises in the Bikinihaus. The aim is not a conventional production facility, but a concept hall, a glass laboratory whose interior design showcases the production technology of the future to clients and end customers. The new workflow of virtual design, sales, payment and just in time production is to be brought to life.
In addition to the interior design, we are scheduling training sessions for our staff, working on a number of programmes, including applied R&D activities, and driving forward pilot projects with manufacturers and studios. We presented two outfits from the label SE 1 OG at the last Fashion Week Berlin. At the next fashion week, we want to celebrate the opening of the Microfactory with the live production of giveaways that guests can configure individually.
We are also in talks about continuing our collaboration with the Senate at the end of 2025, after the co-financing has expired. Our VORN Fashion Hub is a long-term initiative that is backed by political commitment and great public interest.
Schlenker: Concepts of on-demand production of individualized items with a batch size of 1 are not new, but they are a challenge. Adidas discontinued its Speedfactory project in 2020. What are you doing differently to be successful?
Händel: A lot has changed in recent years. Today, we have the possibilities of a completely new generation of technology at our disposal. Hardware and software solutions are being developed and refined with enormous power. The software offerings of the CREATE family from KM.ON, for example, offer a wide range of potential for the production of knitwear collections on demand. A set of modification options makes simple, economical mass customization possible. The crisis in the retail sector is also forcing retailers to come up with new concepts and providers. Berlin is a good place for the necessary change. We also rely on experience. We work closely with the team that supported the Adidas project and benefit from what we have learned. Our focus is also not on batch size 1 production only. Following the path of renowned innovation labs in Amsterdam and London, we will offer capacities so that brands, retailers and designers can bring small series to market in short project times and with high visibility. In this way, we close the gap between lengthy projects with academic institutions and mass production in large quantities.
Milliken & Company, Spartanburg, S.C., is developing a flame-resistant (FR) next-to-skin undergarment fabric for use on the National Aeronautical and Space Administration’s (NASA’s) Artemis missions. Artemis III plans to again carry U.S. astronauts to the moon — for the first time in more than 50 years. U.S. industry is collaborating with NASA to create a Human Landing System (HLS) to take astronauts to the lunar surface. During this part of the mission, the astronauts are at higher risk of fire because of elevated oxygen levels.
Milliken & Company is working with professional services firm Jacobs under the JSC Engineering, Technology & Science (JETS) II contract with NASA to create an FR fabric that will be worn by the astronauts as they operate the HLS space vehicles during the lunar landing mission.
Milliken is contributing its expertise in FR materials, knitting, finishing, chemical analysis and material testing. Work began back in 2023. Now in its second phase, Milliken and Jacobs are finalizing prototypes and readying the fabric for delivery to NASA by the fall.
“Milliken views this project as an opportunity to support an American commitment to further space exploration, science and research that will positively impact future generations,” said David Smith, executive vice president at Milliken and president of Milliken’s Textile Business. “We are proud to do our part to help keep NASA astronauts safe during the Artemis missions.”
“This project feels tailor-made for Milliken — it’s the perfect marriage of the FR capabilities of our Westex® brand and the knit fabrics expertise from our Polartec® brand,” said Ramesh Kesh, senior vice president of Milliken’s Textile Business.
“Combine that with our manufacturing excellence and deep bench of patented research scientists and we feel incredibly aligned to support NASA on this development.”
Helsinki-based Suominen has invested approximately 10 million euros ($10.7 million) to upgrade one of its production lines at its Bethune, S.C., facility. The project is expected to be complete within the first half of 2025.
“With this investment we strengthen our position as the leader in sustainable nonwovens in Americas market and respond to the increased demand of environmentally friendly products,” said Tommi Björnman, president and CEO of Suominen. “This investment also enhances our operational performance in terms of safety, quality and productivity.”
Germany-based Dilo Temafa reports it has sold a line extension for cleaning flax scutcher tow to France-based Eco-Technilin. The extension, comprising a Lin-Cleaner and
Lin-Comb Shaker, will be added to an existing flax fiber preparation line to improve fiber quality. The extension also will increase capacity and efficiency, according to Dilo Temafa.