Warp Sizing: Taking Advantage of A Necessary Process

The addition of low levels of nanotechnology based additives in conventional warp size formulations has been studied in commercial operations. Fiber cohesion improvements within the yarn have provided multiple benefits in woven fabric formation. The nanotech species studied is a complex of a resin protected silica colloid used to enhance fiber cohesion in the bundle.

Background
In the 1960’s, introduction of polyester/cotton permanent press fabric into the apparel market was an immediate marketing success. However, this success presented severe problems in manufacturing fabric for the no-iron finish. Traditional starch based warp sizes developed for cotton were incompatible with polyester fiber in the blend yarn and would not adhere to the warp yarn. Abrasive forces developed by the loom quickly destroyed the warp yarn and the weaving industry could not begin to supply demand. Looms in mills were idle and collecting dust.

In the midst of this panic, size suppliers began evaluating polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as the primary film former in their formulations. PVA forms a strong film around the yarn and does not rely on adhesion to the fiber bundle to provide abrasion resistance. PVA was an answer to the problem and was quickly adopted by the industry.  Both warp size suppliers and the industry soon regarded PVA based formulations as the ultimate solution for weaving polyester/cotton spun yarn fabric.

Primary film formers, urea, waxes, and synthetic polymer binders have been the extent of what has been considered research in this area for many years. Modification of surface size films and chemical effects were the primary focus of chemical suppliers and technicians. This situation led to an approach practiced by nearly all industries.

THE CHARLES H. DUELL EFFECT*
*Commissioner of the United States Patent Office, 1899.  Reportedly proposed ending the United States Patent Office because everything that could be invented had already been invented.

As a result of this approach, variations in size formulations have been only dictated by the particular style under consideration and formulation cost. With all suppliers employing the same raw material base, size cost has become the primary driving factor in the majority of weaving mills. 

Objective
Nanotechnology has presented the opportunity to investigate and exploit unique characteristics of selected chemical additives within warp yarn. The small size and huge surface areas of these chemicals in the yarn dramatically alters yarn properties. The interior areas in the yarn bundle are not readily available to the high molecular weight polymeric sizing chemicals currently in use. Adhering to the topic of this study, the effects of nanosize materials in sized warp yarn have been evaluated.

The problem of low quality yarn has been a continual concern in weaving performance. Efforts to improve yarn properties with traditional warp sizes have not enjoyed any consistent success. The current study has concentrated on nano materials that can penetrate the yarn bundle and improve sized yarn properties. Warp sizing is the only water based process in spun yarn fabric formation that allows this possibility. 
 
Method
It is important to note that this extended study has taken advantage of size formulations and practices developed by current size chemical suppliers. This work has been designed to demonstrate improvements to these formulations. Evaluations could not have been accomplished without these established standards and supplier cooperation.

Studies with current size formulations with and without low levels of nano based products were conducted.  The nano materials were added to the standard size bath and used the standard formulations as the controls. Additions of the nano product were based on total dry size solids. All evaluations were adjusted to provide equal size add-on. No changes in current practices were made.

Laboratory Tests:

  • Microscope evaluation of yarns from each trial demonstrated a more compact sized yarn than the control with significantly less protruding hard sized fiber.
  • Tensile data of hard yarn demonstrated a lower coefficient of variation than the control.
  • Elongation data of hard yarn demonstrated a lower coefficient of variation than the control.
  • Abrasion resistance of the sized yarn was improved.

At The Slasher:

  • A smoother break at the bust bar section.
  • Lower levels of size and fiber shed at the bust bar section.
  • More sized yarn on the loom beam.

On the Loom:

  • Reduced warp stops;
  • Reduced fill stops;
  • Reduced size shed; and
  • Reduced fiber shed.

Nano materials are readily removed with conventional sizing materials in normal desize procedures.

Conclusions
Incorporation of nano based materials into conventional warp size formulations have provided very positive results.  Nanosize materials have been shown to penetrate to the interior of warp yarn in the sizing process to provide a more compact and uniform yarn. This treatment improves the coefficient of variation in both tensile and elongation properties.  Nano material penetration into the bundle improves fiber cohesion and promotes improved weaving performance.   
 


For more information, please contact Dr. John C. Lark, johnlark@bellsouth.net


August 18, 2015

Sixteen International Delegates Successfully Complete Cotton Classing & Testing Training

BREMEN, Germany — August 5, 2015 — Sixteen international delegates successfully completed ICA Bremen’s ‘Cotton Classing & Testing’ training program.

The eight day programme took place in Bremen, Germany from July 7-16, and was delivered by industry experts from ICA Bremen, the Bremen Fibre Institute (FIBRE) and ITV Denkendorf. The training concentrated purely on quality issues in raw cotton.

Following the training, ICA Bremen course deliverer, Karsten Froese, said: “This year, we had another stimulating group of participants from across the global supply chain which led to many interesting discussions. The training offered a unique chance for participants to receive practical training in different kinds of quality measurements and examine the influence of cotton quality on processing. We recognised the need to support our spinning and weaving modules with practical demonstrations and this will be incorporated into future training programmes. As always, we were able to adapt the training to meet the bespoke needs of participants’ firms and will continue to do so in the future.”

Robert Wakefield was one of the delegates who benefited from the training: “A very well run course, with a great combination of theory and hands on training with both machine and manual grading of cotton from all around the globe. Also a great opportunity to meet and exchange ideas with different people from different areas of the supply chain.”

The training incorporated a wide range of modules – from the classification of cotton from various growths to practical HVI training on the latest Uster 1000 and Premier ART2 machines. It also included a trip to a local warehouse and a farewell meal sponsored by Uster Technologies AG.

The next ‘Cotton Classing & Testing’ training programme will take place in 2016 – the exact date is yet to be confirmed.

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: ICA Bremen
 

Aman Graphics, BD adopts intelloCut To Save Fabric

DHAKA, Banglasdesh — August, 5, 2015 — ThreadSol Softwares, the pioneer in Enterprise Material Management solutions for the sewn product industry, are pleased to announce that Aman Graphics and Designs has adopted ThreadSol’s material planning solution intelloCut. The partnership brings an enhancement to the factory’s cutting room processes, in terms of saving effort, improved quality and boosting their material savings, to prepare for the ultra-competitiveness in the apparel sector.

In their brief 18 months of operation, ThreadSol has been successful in saving fabric cost for 50+ factories in seven geographies. Within three months of operation in the wide spread Bangladesh apparel market, big names like Kenpark, Regency, Dekko etc. have already adopted ThreadSol’s solution intelloCut.

Aman Graphics and Designs is a fame name in Bangladesh apparel manufacturing. It has gained impressive business growth within a short span of time because of its highly qualified top & mid-level management team, sound technological base, skilled workers & high franchise value.

“After implementation of intellocut, we experienced profound improvement in stores and cutting systems processes and efficiency”, says Mr Ronnie Serasingha, CEO, Aman Graphics.“The systemhas put our processes onauto pilot. At the same time,the live data in the form of reports has helped management gain transparency”, he explains.

Impressed by ThreadSol’s experienced and dedicated team of expert consultants, Mr Ronnie adds, “The intelloCut team is the most efficient and best support team during and after implementation. I am sure we will get benefit of what we have invested in intelloCut in a short lead time.”

“It was a pleasure working alongside such an able team lead by Mr Ronnie and Mr Suriya. The interest taken by them and their thumping support during the implementation was one of the key factors behind our success. A world class setup marries a world class planning software bringing over 10% of on floor fabric savings”, says Anas Shakil, Country Head Bangladesh, ThreadSol.

IntelloCut and IntelloBuy, products of ThreadSol, together offer complete Enterprise Material Management that help manufacturers save fabric cost and boost their top line by 50%.

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: ThreadSol
 

Hollanders Sells ColorBooster 320 Printer

EINDHOVEN, The Netherlands — August 5, 2015 — One year after the introduction of the successful ColorBooster 250 Hollanders sold at FESPA 2015 in Cologne the first of its newest printer, the super wide ColorBooster 320, right the first day.
 
Looking at customer’s requirements Hollanders has seen a growing market demand for a flexible printer set-up that enables customers, also afterwards, to combine various configurations to meet their production needs and budget at that moment.
 
Jacco Aartsen Tuijn CEO of Hollanders said: “We see that customers require a flexible set-up of their printers and based on this principle the introduction of the ColorBooster 250 last year was absolute the right move and has given our sales an enormous boost the past year.”

“So it was the logical next step to extend this principle to a new big brother the ColorBooster 320” he continues “The flexibility in the head configuration has even improved giving the utmost flexibility in speed and number of colors”.

“All our experiences of the last year with our CB250 are put into this development”. ”One example: customers can change their own heads if necessary and waiting time for a service engineer belongs to the past in this case”. “Besides with the typical feature of unattended printing and overnight printing we think that we have built not only the most reliable and flexible but also a printer with the highest efficiency and lowest m2 price”.
 
CTO Peter Hollanders completes: “Also for us it was a surprise that we sold the new 320 printer directly the first day and in combination with the 320 ColorFix” “We have had our expectations for the new 320 based on the 250 printer sales, but you can only dream of such a sale at the most competitive market place that Fespa surely is”.
 
Advantages of the ColorBooster 250 and 320 are:

  • Ricoh Gen5 heads
  • Customer changeable heads with an own developed error free mounting system
  • Unique build-in head shower and auto-cleaning function
  • Open ink system
  • Hollanders High and Low energy disperse dye selection
  • Wide color gamut and the highest UV resistance
  • In-line drying
  • Anti-ink-mist system
  • Optional internal printer temperature and humidity control makes workspace control redundant
  • Low overall energy consumption
  • Small operating space
  • High functionality and productivity at the best m2 price. 
  • Cleaning is easy because the exhaust hood can be opened, allowing access to the complete printer

 
The ColorBooster 250 and 320 are the newest printers in a range including the unique Double Sided ColorBooster DS.

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: Hollanders Printing Systems BV
 

Indorama Ventures Records Strong Growth In Volumes And Profits

BANGKOK, Thailand — August 7, 2015 — Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a leading integrated global producer of polymers, saw second quarter sales revenue increase to THB 61.2 billion, with a record production of 1.8 million tonnes on the back of higher utilization rates and additional volumes from new acquisitions.

IVL’s scale and business model pursues to build a world-class global corporation and management that are focused on excellence and governance in a sustainable way. IVL has demonstrated its overall resilience to the challenges faced by industry with a healthy Core as well as Reported profit before tax and after non controlling interests of Baht 7.2 billion for the last 12 months (LTM) ending 2Q15. During this period IVL achieved strong Operating Cash Flow of Baht 24.8 billion on a record production of 6.6 million tons.

IVL strives to differentiate and has been successful in building a significant portfolio of niche businesses that are harder to replicate though remain close to consumer daily necessity and therefore much resilient to global uncertainty. IVL’s HVA portfolio in LTM 2Q15 has generated revenue of Baht 81.2 billion or 34.8% of its total revenue that has grown from 30.5% in the previous period, while the total IVL has grown in scale by 9.5% in total volume. BRIC countries remain a laggard due to the economic slowdown and the over-build of capacities in necessities further compounds the situation. New capacities in India in the PTA value chain in 1H15 has delayed the recovery of PTA margins and has put pressure on downstream margins, which is expected to continue in rest of 2015.

Core net profit before taxes in the 2nd Quarter 2015 grew by 27.7% over 2014 to THB 2.3 billion while earnings per share for the quarter rose exponentially to THB 1.04 from THB 0.30 in the same quarter last year. The company has declared an interim dividend of THB 0.24 per share.

Aloke Lohia, Group CEO explained that its move into the high value-added space led by R&D and specialized materials led to important gains.

“We now have a keen focus on what has become a very successful strategy over the last few years. We have enhanced our high value-added (HVA) product profile so that it now constitutes 22% of our production volumes and 45% of our core EBITDA,” Lohia explained. “Currently we have a unique mix of high value-added products in our portfolio serving the automotive, hygiene, industrial and packaging sectors. This HVA segment saw a significant 31% YoY growth in its core EBITDA over the previous 12 months.”

The company’s North American business remained strong with a Core EBITDA over the last 12 months of US$327m.  The second half of 2015 in this region is expected to see higher volumes, due to the full effect of the volumes expected following the completed acquisition of the PTA facility in Canada in the second quarter of 2015.

IVL capacity grew by one million tonnes to reach 8.5 million tonnes following its acquisitions in 2015 and this is expected to grow a further 700,000 tonnes in the second half of the year under its ongoing M&A CAPEX plan.

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: Indorama Ventures

SML Group – Partnering With F&F to Supply RFID Labels

CORBY, United Kingdom — August 11, 2015 – SML Group announced F&F, one of the world’s largest multinational clothing retailers, is deploying radio frequency identificaiton (RFID). The main objective is to improve inventory accuracy by running quick and accurate RFID stock counts. This allows individual stores to replenish shelves on a daily basis, which improves customer service by offering a greater selection of products and sizes. The RFID solution also helps the brand to understand the stock levels throughout their supply chain and will improve the efficiency of the new ‘Click and Collect’ program (where customers may place an order on-line and then collect in-store).
 
“The RFID project began in 2013 and SML was nominated to provide the majority of the RFID label requirement. SML quickly developed an excellent working relationship with the F&F operations, packaging and IT teams, and this has been a key factor in developing the right solutions going forward. SML setup a network of RFID production sites (within a 12 week period) to supply the key garment sourcing regions including China and Turkey enabling them to successfully deliver over 100 million RFID labels during the first 12 months. Furthermore, SML made its UK RFID Centre available to F&F to carry out complete solution testing (including RFID labels, software and hardware). This allowed the brand to efficiently evaluate a range of products and simulate in-store testing, without causing disruption at any of its trading stores,” said Terry Kemp, Senior Director RFID (EMEA), SML.
 
“SML worked in close partnership with F&F in several other areas to ensure the project was successfully delivered. For example, SML developed its online ordering platform (E-Platform) to fulfil the specific requirements of the F&F garment vendor base, this made it easier for the vendors to place orders and ensured data accuracy by utilising a central database. SML also developed an RFID in-plant solution for printing/encoding RFID labels at the F&F distribution centre. We look forward to continuing and developing this partnership with F&F,” said Steven Davidson, CCO, SML.
 
“Teamwork and communication between F&F and SML have been the main reasons why this project has been successful. SML has provided excellent account management, smooth processing of vendor orders, flexible production planning and above all a strong desire to work with F&F. We have efficiently worked together to reach the landmark of SML delivering 100 million RFID labels, and we look forward to continuing this journey with SML as we expand our RFID solution,” said Richard Collins, CEO, F&F Clothing.
 
Posted August 11, 2015

Source: SML Group
 

Gerber Technology Sells 25,000 Plotters

TOLLAND, Conn. — August 10, 2015 — After 35 years of designing and engineering, Gerber Technology recently reached the milestone of selling its 25,000th plotter, a GERBERplotter MP Series. The MP Series plotters boast improvements from the CAD room to the cut room, with up to 4 inkjet heads that produce crisper and faster output and a feature-rich design that ensures ease of use and long-term reliability.

Since shipping its first pen plotter in 1979, and launching its first line of inkjet plotters (the Infinity Series) 20 years later, Gerber has a rich history in offering state-of-the-art plotting solutions. The GERBERplotter MP Series today meets even the most challenging workflow demands, with print speeds of up to 180square meters per hour at 300 DPI resolution and operating noise under 40 decibels. Its ability to print on paper as light as 20 grams offers users a material savings of up to 50 percent, helping deliver maximum return on investment.  

“Sales of our MP Plotters have truly exceeded our already high expectations,” said Lenny Marano, director of product marketing. “We have only been selling this series for eight months, and the high order and reorder rates are remarkable. Customers have been truly impressed with the complete value proposition the MP Series offers.”

Designed using a limited number of moving parts made of high quality materials, the GERBERplotter MP Series is extremely reliable. The precision crafted aluminum structure is designed to withstand even the toughest manufacturing environments, allowing customers comfort and assurance regardless of their workplace surroundings. To further ensure peace-of-mind, Gerber offers low-cost, easy-to-install preventive maintenance kits that keep production running smoothly.

“A company’s ROI is very important to Gerber, and the MP Series was designed with that in mind. From operational efficiencies to ease of use and lower consumable costs, this plotter can pay for itself very quickly. Users can count on its production for very long time,” said Marano.

The GERBERplotter MP Series is available with either two or four print heads. Four heads deliver optimal print speed. Users can also choose either a 1.8- or 2.2-meter-wide system.
 
The GERBERplotter MP Series is part of Gerber Technology’s integrated cutting room solutions, including the Paragon® cutting platform, XLs Series spreaders and AccuMark® pattern design software. Learn more about these systems at www.gerbertechnology.com. 

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: Gerber Technology
 

Teijin Opens Technology Development Center In Matsuyama

TOKYO — August 5, 2015 — Teijin Ltd. announced today the opening of the Technology Development Center at its Matsuyama Factory in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, Japan, to serve as a central base for developing high-performance materials solutions for the Teijin group, effective immediately.
 
Integrating advanced fibers development functions previously handled by the Osaka Research Center, as well related company-wide solutions development and engineering, the Technology Development Center will serve as a core R&D base and nexus of cross-business solutions development to fortify Teijin’s capabilities in the high-performance fibers business and support its development of composite materials and solutions combining products and services.
 
Teijin, under a strategic effort to strengthen long-term growth, is developing new solutions by integrating key capabilities among its diverse businesses and technologies. The Technology Development Center will enable the group to rapidly address cross-business solutions development and oversee entire processes, from materials to end products and services.
 
The 7,700 m2 center has facilities for test production and evaluation of super-tough lightweight structural materials, design and evaluation of smart wearables and a burn evaluation system for protective clothing (to be transferred from Osaka Research Center in December). The center is also equipped with facilities for design, test production, measurement, analysis and evaluation of materials, parts, products and services.
 
The Technology Development Center initially will focus on developing solutions for high-performance composite materials and expanding its scope of monitoring services. Projects are already underway for smart wearables and super-tough lightweight structural materials to be developed by integrating high-performance materials and IT.
 
The Technology Development Center also looks forward to accelerating new business opportunities by strengthening collaborations with Teijin Product Development China Co., Ltd., a yarn and textile product development site opened last year in Nantong, Jiangsu, while leveraging the Matsuyama Factory’s R&D functions in plastics, carbon fibers and composites.

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: Teijin
 

Colorjet Appoints MFI As Distributor Of Digital Printers For Kenya

NOIDA, India — August 10, 2015 — Operating out of multiple countries, ColorJet Group, India’s largest manufacturer of wide format digital inkjet printers is pleased to announce the appointment of MFI Group as its distributor for the Kenyan market and in the process added one more country to its distribution network.
 
The MFI Group will offer ColorJet’s wide-format printing systems, including the Polo, Aurajet, Verve and Softjet series of printers and also consumables.
 
The MFI Group which is represented in over 14 countries provides innovative and clear-cut solutions for highly sensitive and precise printing needs to the textile, sign and signage, packaging and other related printing applications.
 
Currently, Colorjet digital printers are installed in 315 cities across various countries in the world and this partnership will help ColorJet Group to further expand its global network.
 
In Signage printing, ColorJet markets three models namely, Neptune, Polo HQ and Softjet Grand, with the last specifically developed for soft signage printing. Vastrajet, Fabjet Grand and Aurajet Dye join the line-up in Textile printing technology. In Eco Solvent printers, ColorJet offers Aurajet and, Verve in the UV printing segment. 
 
Speaking about the partnership, MFI Director Mr. Rajendra Prasad said, “We are pleased to be appointed as ColorJet’s distributor and their printing solutions are the perfect complement to our expanding portfolio of graphic-arts industry products and services.”
 
“We have stringent measures and processes in place to reduce print runs by minimising on print and production errors. In addition, we ensure business productivity is maintained with the help of our team who work with our clients to make their business operate more efficiently through our excellent after sales services,” he added.
 
Mr. Pavan Gupta, Director at ColorJet Group said, “Both companies have a long history in the printing industry and are leading the growth in digital inkjet technologies and MFI’s experience in the region will help in delivering full support to customers with end-to-end services and industrial inkjet solutions.”
 
“MFI maintains strong relationships across the graphic-arts industry in over 14 countries and offers complete integration, services and benefits for the business growth of their clients and we look forward to a long and fruitful relationship with MFI,” Mr. Gupta noted.
 
“We want to further expand our global footprint and plan to explore many other countries like Italy, Germany and South Africa and to meet this objective, we are exhibiting at the upcoming ITMA 2015” Mr. Gupta added.

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: ColorJet Group
 

ICAC: Large Cotton Stocks Likely to Persist in 2015-16

WASHINGTON — August 4, 2015 — In 2014-15, world ending stocks are estimated to have risen by 9 percent to 22 million tons, reflecting a stock-to-use ratio of 90 percent. From 2010-11 through the end of 2014-15, the world has accumulated 13.4 million tons of stock due to production exceeding consumption. In 2015-16, stocks are projected to decrease 5 percent to just under 21 million tons, reducing the excess volume by around 1 million tons. After increasing 16 percent to 9.4 million tons in 2014-15, stocks held outside of China are expected to decrease by 4 percent, to 9 million tons, by the end of 2015-16. Much of the world’s excess stock is held by the Chinese government from purchases made by the China National Cotton Reserve Corporation under its stockpiling policy from 2011-2014. The Reserve made its final purchases of the 2013-14 crop in March 2014 with sales continuing through August 2014, ending with an accumulated volume of around 11.3 million tons. On July 10, the Chinese government started to sell its stockpiles at prices close to the current domestic market price in the hopes of maintaining market stability. The cumulative volume of cotton sold through the end of July is around 40,000 tons. India’s ending stocks are estimated at 2.2 million tons in 2014-15, which is the second largest volume of stocks.

Part of the increased volume is held by the Indian government, which procured stocks under its minimum price support program. Government purchases in 2014-15 are estimated at around 1.5 million tons, and sales through the end of July at around 650,000 tons. However, exports from India have fallen by 51 percent to 980,000 tons, also contributing to the buildup of stocks.

Stocks in 2015-16 are projected to decrease as consumption overtakes production for the first time in five seasons. World production in 2015-16 is forecast down 9 percent to 23.8 million tons. Output is expected to fall from 2 percent to 16 percent in the five largest producing countries. Rising costs of production and a decreased subsidy in China are likely to lead to a 16 percent drop in production to 5.4 million tons. India’s production is forecast down just 2 percent to 6.4 million tons due to improved yields from better monsoon weather this season and low prices for competing crops reducing the loss of cotton area. World consumption is projected to rise by 2 percent to 24.9 million tons in 2015-16. China’s consumption is forecast to remain stable at around 7.7 million tons. However, mill use is expected to grow in the next four largest consuming countries.

World cotton trade is expected to remain stable at 7.7 million tons in 2015-16. In 2015, the Chinese government limited import quota to the volume required under WTO rules of 894,000 tons, in part to spur demand for domestic cotton and Reserve sales. Given the large volume of stocks within China, it will likely maintain the restricted import volumes through 2016, and China’s imports could fall 10 percent to 1.6 million tons in 2015-16. Imports outside of China are forecast to increase by 4 percent to 6.1 million tons.

World Cotton Supply And Distribution

2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16
changes from previous month
million tons million tons
Production 26.28 26.20 23.83 0.00 -0.01 -0.10
Consumption 23.72 24.35 24.90 -0.02 -0.01 -0.01
Imports 8.65 7.67 7.71 0.00 0.03 -0.03
Exports 8.80 7.67 7.71 -0.07 0.03 -0.03
Ending Stocks 20.18 22.03 20.95 0.14 0.14 0.05
Cotlook A Index 91 71 72

* The price projection for 2015-16 is based on the ending stocks/consumption ratio in the world-less-China in 2013-14 (estimate), in 2014-15 (estimate) and in 2015-16 (projection), on the ratio of Chinese net imports to world imports in 2014-15 (estimate) and 2015-16 (projection). The price projection is the mid-point of the 95% percent confidence interval: 59 cts/lb to 89 cts/lb.

Posted August 11, 2015

Source: International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC)
 

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