September/October 2017
Third-Quarter Orders Stay Steady
By Jim Phillips, Yarn Market Editor
A number of spinners reported stable business conditions throughout the third quarter and expect orders to continue to be relatively strong until the typical end-of-the-year slowdown.
“Our business has been solid,” said one spinner. “You couldn’t say it’s been great, but it’s been relatively steady throughout the third quarter.” Added another spinner: “This is just a funny business. You never really know what to expect. Overall, our orders have been fine. We don’t have a huge backlog, but that has been the case for most of the year. But just when we expect business to fall off some, it picks up. And just the opposite happens. We see the signs that say expect big things and then nothing happens. As I said, it is just a funny business.”
Some spinners noted that orders for cotton yarns picked up significantly in early September. “Over the course of the summer, we had a lot of orders for blends,” said one spinner. “In fact, that has been the bulk of our business for a few months. But now, heading into the end of the year, we are seeing a lot more orders for cotton yarns.” Another spinner commented: “We’ve seen definite increase in orders for cotton yarns in the last few weeks. We’ve got a steady stream of orders coming in that we hope will keep us busy until everyone starts shutting down and cleaning up for the holidays.”
A multi-national spinner said: “Orders across the board have been strong. We are moving a lot of specialty yarns and a lot of cotton. In fact, at the moment, it seems the only things that aren’t moving very well are OE yarns and some commodity products. And that’s because the market is already flooded with inventory of these products.”
Hurricanes Top The News In Early September
Weather dominated much of the discussion among yarn spinners in late August and early September. Hurricane Harvey ripped through the Texas coast, accounting for numerous personal tragedies and record amounts of property destruction. Yarn spinners were affected as well, as spot market cotton prices temporarily spiked to a season high of more than 70 cents per pound on August 31.
As of this writing, Hurricane Irma is poised to hit the Florida coast. Its track is uncertain and could affect a significant portion of the southeast and south central United States. Irma has a number of spinners concerned about its impact on the U.S. cotton crop. Note: By the time of publication, a lot will be known about how Irma affected the U.S. industry. A review of Irma’s impact on the U.S. yarn business will be published in the next “Yarn Market.”
“It is not likely to destroy a lot of the cotton crop in the southeast,” said one spinner, “but it could have a significant impact on the overall quality of the crop.” Said another spinner in early September: “With a storm so powerful, it is just going to be wait and see. We still don’t even know where it is going — how much of the country it is going to affect. The bad news is that it is very strong. The good news is that it is moving rapidly, so it is unlikely that we will see the devastating flooding associated with Harvey.”
Cotton Prices Inch Up As Yarn Demand Improves
Average quotations for the base quality of cotton (color 41, leaf 4, staple 34, mike 35-36 and 43-49, strength 27.0-28.9, uniformity 81.0-81.9) in the seven designated markets measured by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) averaged 69.05 cents per pound for the week ending August 31, 2017. The weekly average was up from 67.01 the
previous week, and 65.30 cents reported the corresponding period a year ago. Daily average quotations ranged from a low of 67.15 cents Friday, August 25 to a season high of 70.06 cents Thursday, August 31. Spot transactions reported in the Daily Spot Cotton Quotations for the week ended August 31 totaled 2,566 bales.
The USDA also reported that demand was good for color 41, leaf 4, and staple 34 and longer for second and third quarter 2018 delivery. Some mills anticipated increased cotton consumption during the fourth quarter of 2017 as yarn demand improved. Most mills were operating on five-to-seven day schedules.
September/October 2017
What Do We Do When All The Old Guys And Girls Are Gone?
By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor
There’s an old adage suggesting that “Inside every old person is a young person wondering what happened?” I mention this, because when I first started in the textile industry circa 1983, there always were older guys and gals around for the young ‘uns to learn from. Many of you know whom I’m referring to. There was the wizened fixer who not only named but talked to his machines, yet knew just how to coax them into running smoothly no matter what we did to them; guys like Bubba, Harold and Big Jim who told fantastic stories that constantly made you laugh until you cried; Ms. Sue in purchasing, all four feet ten and 105 pounds soaking wet who would stand toe to toe with literally anyone, even Mr. Milliken himself, to get you the best pricing; or the crazy mad scientist with his little black book who could create the most vibrant of colors from a bunch of pixie dust. Everyone knows folks like this, and went to them for help and guidance. They’re the real-world teachers and mentors that drive the textile industry. Fortunately, I still know and am proud to call many of these now “older folks” friends.
Unfortunately, looking at all the folks in the textile industry today, the old ones regrettably are getting older, and there appears to be significantly fewer and fewer young ones hoping to take their place. “Textiles are growing worldwide and expanding into new and fascinating areas, but the talent pool is shrinking and continues to shrink,” lamented James Wang, CEO of Pailung Machinery Co. “The impression of textiles is that the industry is in the sunset, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.”
Many others in the textile industry are sounding alarms with similar concerns about the lack of young people showing an interest in textiles. Dan St. Louis, director of the Manufacturing Solutions Center established to assist and grow industry in North Carolina, proclaimed: “Man it’s tough! Everyone thinks textiles are dead. Do a Google search for textiles and you still see pictures of the old dirty, nasty factory mills from days gone by. Those old images couldn’t be further from the truth given the advanced factories of today or the unbelievable breadth of applications where textiles are used. But how do we get kids interested in textiles? They think stuff like robotics and artificial intelligence are the cool jobs, not textiles. How do we manufacture anything if they’re all playing on their smart phones and immersed in virtual reality? We’re at less than 4-percent unemployment in this area now. We already can’t find people, so where’s the future hands-on work going to come from? Where do we find the fixers? Where do we find the craftsmen? That’s really the huge concern!”
“The textile industry was never sexy,” said Lee Berry, sales manager at SAERTEX USA. “It’s always had an image problem. The media consistently portrays the textile industry as old school, not the highly technical growth industry which it really is. There truly needs to be an effort to change that image and get young people interested again.”
Wang is equally concerned. “The new generation doesn’t see textiles as interesting globally,” Wang said. “They don’t realize that today’s textile industry is as advanced or even more advanced than many other industries. We have to change the global image of textiles and get more young people involved and we have to do it soon. How can we continue to realize growth and find new opportunities without the talent pool to drive it?”
“It seems like the textile industry created its own self-fulfilling prophecy when many of the traditional textile schools started dropping or greatly reducing their textile programs,” said Berry. “Georgia Tech maybe has some classes. Philadelphia Textile is now Jefferson University. It still has textile programs, I think? Does Clemson or Texas Tech still offer textile courses? I don’t know,” Berry opined. “People imply that textiles aren’t around anymore and all the jobs are going to Asia, yet the textile industry in the United States keeps evolving into new and interesting directions that most don’t realize. Somehow we need to change that.”
On the bright side, there is a lot of good going on in textiles and several efforts are increasing the textile industry’s visibility to bright young people. Raleigh, N.C.-based North Carolina State University (NC State) still maintains an active textiles program. The Nonwoven’s Institute at NC State, led by Behnam Pourdeyhimi, is a world-class organization benefitting the nonwovens industry. There are a growing number of composites programs using textiles for reinforcements at universities around the country expanding the understanding and use of composite technologies in a variety of industries.
And speaking of technologies, while most people still think of textiles as only being the stuff that clothing and bed sheets are made from, it is a progressive industry filled with technology and literally untold numbers of applications. Some fun facts:
- The global textile industry, when categorized properly, remains one of the largest, if not the largest, in terms of manufacturing dollars and number of employees.
- Machine manufacturers like Pailung continue to push the limits of machinery and resulting fabric technologies. It’s estimated that more than 20 percent of the human body can now be replaced or improved using some form of textiles.
- Performance and high-tech fabrics are everywhere. Several new running shoe uppers are actually complex one-piece knit fabrics while near net-shape 3-D woven preforms are being used in ultra-high performance composite applications.
- The Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA) organization — initially funded with a Department of Defense grant and based at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology — is investigating truly advanced uses for textiles in the military, electronics and beyond.
No, it’s definitely not my father’s textile industry any longer, and we need to inspire more young people from all education levels and disciplines to get immersed in the textile industry in order to keep
it advancing. “We have to engage youth early in order to service industry needs of the future,” St. Louis suggested. “We have to help them understand that knowing how to make stuff is a worthy and valuable skill. Textiles are a large part of our history in this area and they are still a significant part of our future.”
Personally, I remain bullish about the future of the textile industry, but share all the concerns that textiles needs to improve its image. It’s one of the oldest industries known to man and has continually progressed through the cumulative efforts of young and old guys and gals alike.
Textiles are used virtually everywhere in applications that amaze and inspire, but regrettably many people harbor that old, dirty image of a dying industry. And that’s the image that needs to change in order to get young people excited about textiles. Otherwise, the concern is that when all the old guys are gone, the textile industry is going to look back and wonder what happened?
September/October 2017
German Technology Meets U.S. And Mexican Textiles
The VDMA Textile Machinery will hold two events — one in Charlotte and one in Mexico City — to showcase German technology to industry decision-makers.
TW Special Report
Interested in developing and manufacturing new products; or enhancing competitiveness by increasing efficiency and quality? The Germany-based Mechanical Engineering Industry Association’s (VDMA’s) Textile Machinery Association hopes to help textile manufacturers find answers to these questions, as well as tackle topics such as saving energy and material resources, digitization, and smart factories during two upcoming B2B Forum & Conference events this November.
The first event will be held in Charlotte at the Sheraton Charlotte Hotel November 6, 2017. The second conference will be held November 8-9, 2017, at the Hilton Mexico City Santa Fe in Mexico City. Each event will feature approximately 25 VDMA member companies that will present practice-oriented technology topics along the entire textile chain from spinning to finishing and dyeing, in addition to cross topics including energy and material efficiency, life cycle costs, and Industry 4.0. Conference presentations, some held in parallel, will be supplemented by B2B meetings and a table-top exhibition area.
The free event is targeted to decision-makers in the textile manufacturing industry. Interested parties can register at each event’s website, as well as use tools on the site to schedule meetings with participating VDMA member companies, subsidiaries and agents.
Healthy Markets
According to the VDMA, traditionally the United States is one of the top five destinations for German textile machinery. Strong sectors in the United States include technical textiles and nonwovens, but also home textiles like carpets. In the first half of 2017, German exports of textile machinery and accessories to the United States reached more than $130 million. “So, for the whole year 2017, we can expect business on a quite good level with exports worth well above $200 million,” said Thomas Waldmann, managing director, VDMA Textile Machinery.
The VDMA reports the market in Mexico was quiet for a couple of years, but picked up in 2015 and 2016. In the first six months of 2017, German deliveries of textile machinery to Mexico reached more than $20 million. “Continuing like this, the result for the whole year will be a good one,” Waldmann said.
“We expect decision-makers of textile manufacturers from the United States and Mexico who are interested in developing and manufacturing new textile products to attend the event,” Waldmann said. “For textile producers that wish to enhance competitiveness by increasing production efficiency and quality of their textile products, the VDMA events are a place to be. The practice-oriented technology topics will place high value on saving energy and material resources in the production process. Textile producers looking for content behind the sometimes loosely used buzzwords ‘digitization’ and ‘smart factory’ will benefit from attending the conferences in Charlotte and Mexico City.”
Participants
VDMA companies taking part in the Charlotte event includes:
- A. Monforts Textilmaschinen;
- Andritz Küsters, a Division of Andritz Inc.;
- Autefa Solutions Germany;
- Brückner Textile Technologies;
- DILO Systems;
- Erhardt+Leimer;
- Georg Sahm;
- Groz-Beckert;
- Interspare;
- Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik;
- Körting Hannover;
- Lindauer Dornier;
- Mahlo;
- Neuenhauser Maschinenbau;
- Oerlikon Textile;
- PLEVA;
- Reseda Binder;
- Saurer Components;
- Sedo Treepoint;
- Temafa;
- Textechno Herbert Stein;
- Thies Corp.;
- Trützschler; and
- Welker Vakuum.
VDMA member companies participating in the Mexico City event includes:
- A. Monforts Textilmaschinen;
- Allma Volkmann Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany;
- Andritz Asselin-Thibeau;
- Autefa Solutions Germany;
- Brückner Textile Technologies;
- DILO Systems;
- Erhardt+Leimer;
- Georg Sahm;
- Groz-Beckert de México;
- Interspare;
- Jakob Muller Trading de Mexico;
- Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik;
- Körting Hannover;
- Mahlo;
- Mayer & Cie;
- Neuenhauser Maschinenbau;
- Oerlikon Textile;
- PLEVA;
- Reseda Binder;
- Saurer Components;
- Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany;
- Sedo Treepoint;
- SETEX Schermuly textile computer;
- Temafa;
- Textechno Herbert Stein;
- Thies;
- Trützschler;
- Welker Vakuum; and
- Xetma Vollenweider.
To Participate
First, attendees must register at the event website; then, individual business meetings with other participants may be requested. Once both parties confirm the request, the meeting will be scheduled. Prior to the event, each registrant will receive a personalized meeting schedule. The event website offers registered participants access to a calendar; a to do list; activities; and a summary of accepted, declined or pending meetings. The comprehensive website also offers a searchable catalog of profiles for each participating company.
Technology Highlights
Following is a brief preview of what to expect from just a small slice of the participating companies.
Andritz’s “Innovative Needlepunch Solutions For The Automotive Industry” presentation will focus on its aXess and eXelle lines designed for market entry and medium capacities versus high capacities and premium products respectively. The company reports there is a focus on needlepunch technologies for automotive applications in the presentation, and it is ready to share its experience and knowledge in this growing application area.
Autefa Solutions considers the forums a great opportunity for easy networking and information exchange, and reports many of its new developments are driven by customer demands. According to Autefa, energy efficiency in addition to reliability and economy play a big part in its product portfolio. “The unique design of our Square Drum Dryer SQ-V combines the small footprint of a drum dryer with the better performance of a belt dryer,” said Alexander Stampfer, regional sales director.
At the Charlotte conference, Brückner’s presentation will provide a definition of the meaning of the Internet of Things and will identify the possibilities that digitalization can offer to end-users and suppliers, as well as explain how these possibilities can be used in a state of the art control system, how they affect machine operation and maintenance and how data collected will increase the production efficiency. In Mexico, Brückner will focus on an up-to-date machinery control system with Remote Maintenance Control and Styles Administration data base for a new system that allows the user to ecologically optimize the finishing processes under and reduce production costs.
DiloGroup will present information on its VectorQuadroCard from DiloSpinnbau, which combines different types of carding within one card using a simple and fast changeover of the intermediate section; the horizontal crosslayer DLSC 200 from DiloMachines, which features an electro-mechanical web infeed speed of 200 m/min depending on the fiber used; and the DILO HyperTex and Hyperpunch needlelooms, among other products.
For carding customers, Groz-Beckert offers a wide range of products available in a variety of options including micro-alloyed and high-end steel grades. The company continuously develops new technologies including the SiroLock® and EvoStep® wires for long staple spinning and nonwovens production. Groz-Beckert’s strong technical support also helps companies address challenges in today’s increasingly competitive environment.
Interspare, a producer of textile finishing systems, will highlight its horizontal chain for high-tension fabric transportation without using lubricants. The company reports the chain is usable in high impact and extreme cross tension situations, making it suitable for carpet and coating applications. Interspare also will share information on new innovations such as its patented Econ-Air guiding system.
Mahlo offers on-line measurement and quality control technologies. During the event, the company will highlight its systems for textiles, nonwovens, coating, converting, film and paper applications. The company develops customizable, modular technologies with the aim of improving quality, reducing manufacturing costs and optimizing processes.
High-tech coating solutions for advanced filtration materials and automotive textile applications will be the focus of A. Monforts Textilmaschinen. At the conference, Monforts will highlight its texCoat coating range, which incorporates a knife over roller/air system, magnetic roller system and printing head systems. “Our new texCoat coating system is the most versatile coating system on the market,” said Jürgen Hanel. “With texCoat, it’s simply a question of changing a position on the machine and we can move from coating to printing. In addition, we can either retrofit the system to an old machine, or add it to a new frame for a totally integrated solution.”
Georg Sahm and American Starlinger-Sahm will introduce the new YarnStar3+ — coating, cooling, winding + automation — single-end extrusion coating line. The line allows polyester yarns to be coated with poly vinyl chloride at speeds of up to 1,500 meters per minute (m/min). The mono- and bicolored coated yarns are suitable for sunshades, home textiles, upholstery fabrics, and wall and floor coverings.
Saurer’s divisions have implemented an E3 concept, which aims to optimize the company’s spinning, winding and twisting systems in terms of energy, economics and ergonomics. The Volkmann twisting division has developed specific solutions to reach these goals including a range of efficient motors and bearings in conjunction with low friction drive systems and a wide range of spindle and rotor combinations to minimize the energy required to produce 1 kilogram of yarn. Its systems are modular and can be tailor-made to meet customer’s requirements.
Sedo Treepoint reports the company has focused on a deeper integration of all systems in dyeing and finishing to offer higher productivity and machine efficiency; more sustainable production; and substantial water, chemical and energy savings. Presentations given at the two events will offer insight on connecting the shop floor with management decisions using a fully integrated system and dynamic production environment.
The Thies iMaster H2O short liquor fabric dyeing jet for cotton and cotton blends operates at liquor ratios as low as 1:3.5 and at 1:2.5 for polyester. Thies reports the machine is flexible and simple to operate with its new software. The company also offers a full line of dye and chemical dispensing equipment.
Trützschler will promote its Integrated Draw Frame (IDF) — a compact auto leveler draw box — during the event. The company reports it is possible to realize improved efficiencies and improve yarn quality when using IDF because the process substitutes one or two passes on the draw frame, thus reducing the number of cans, can transports, power consumption and building space. The improved yarn quality in turn results in fewer imperfections and yarn count variations for better appearance in knit and woven fabrics.
Programs
For more information about the Charlotte event and to register, please visit germantech-ustextile.de. Details about the Mexico City event and the form to register can be found at germantech-mextextile.de.
September/October 2017
ShanghaiTex: Sparking New Opportunities
ShanghaiTex 2017 will highlight Industry 4.0 ideas and promote “Textile for Smarter Future.”
TW Special Report
ShanghaiTex 2017, the 18th International Exhibition on Textile Industry, returns to the Shanghai New International Expo Center (SNIEC) November 27-30, 2017. This year, show organizers — Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd., Shanghai Textile Technology Service & Exhibition Co. Ltd. and Shanghai International Exhibition Co. Ltd. — are embracing the theme of Industry 4.0 and promoting “Textile for Smarter Future.” The show will focus on the ideas of advancing production, digitalization, sustainability and servitization.
Organizers anticipate more than 1,200 exhibitors will show their technologies on a trade show floor covering at least 103,000 square meters over nine halls. More than 60,000 visitors from more than 80 countries are expected. The last edition held in 2015 attracted 1,200 exhibitors and 55,049 visitors from 67 countries and regions.
Show sponsors include ShangTex Holding Co. Ltd., China Council for the Promotion of International Trade Shanghai Sub-council, and China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce.
Themed Zones, Hot Topics
ShanghaiTex 2017 will feature nine themed zones:
- Sports Textiles Technology;
- Technology for Automotive Textiles;
- Knitting & Hosiery Machinery;
- New Materials, Technology & Designs for Textile Products;
- Printing, Dyeing & Finishing Machinery & Textile Chemicals;
- Digital Printing Machinery;
- Spinning & Techtextile Machinery;
- Spare Parts and Accessories for Textile Machinery; and
- Weaving Machinery.
According to organizers, “from innovation of product, service to production process, ShanghaiTex will demonstrate the integration of information, internet, IoT and mobile electronics technology, assisting enterprises to find their own pace to Industry 4.0.”
In addition to the exhibit halls, ShanghaiTex will host seminars, networking events and new product and technology launches. Highlights include a denim mastermind, Evolution of Sports Shoe Tech and Sports Bra-ology seminars; a Smart Textile Innovation Forum; Wearable Technology X Textile Design Competition; Smart Textiles Showcase; Sports 3-D Printing Technology Showcase; a Buyer’s Forum and Business Matching; and Smart Factory & C2M [customer-to-manufactory] Experience Zone featuring a Textile Industry 4.0 Forum and Smart Manufacturing Technology Showcase.
The new C2M Smart Factory Experience Zone will highlight 3-D scanning, 3-D printing, textile automation, management systems and e-commerce platforms to demonstrate the workings of a smart factory. ShanghaiTex visitors will gain hands-on experience using the equipment and technologies found in the zone and will have access to a professional team who can answer questions about Industry 4.0 and help industry players improve productivity and remain competitive in the fast-changing marketplace.
ShanghaiTex admission is free, and visitors may preregister online or register on-site during the show.
For more information about ShanghaiTex 2017, please visit shanghaitex.cn.
September/October 2017
Techtextil North America Reports Growth At 2017 Edition
Chicago proved to be a positive location for odd-numbered year Techtextil North America show.
TW Special Report
On the heels of a successful Techtextil in Frankfurt this Spring, Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Inc. reported growth for its 5th edition of Techtextil held outside of Atlanta — the 14th overall Techtextil North America event. Held at the Lakeside Center at McCormick Place in Chicago, the three-day event hosted 3,096 attendees, which Messe Frankfurt reports is a record for an odd-numbered year show, and represents a 40-percent increase over the 2015 show held in Houston. A total of 167 exhibitors from 16 countries participated in the Chicago show, which represented a 15-percent increase over numbers in Houston, and there was 60-percent growth in booth space rented by overseas exhibitors.
The show was collocated with JEC Americas’ Future of Composites in Construction event, which as always, offered visitor and exhibitor synergies.
“We are pleased to announce that this year’s Techtextil North America, hosted in Chicago, Ill., resulted in a 40-percent increase in attendance over the 2015 edition,” said Dennis Smith, president and CEO, Messe Frankfurt North America. “Over the course of three days, the event garnered a dynamic audience — with visitors from geographies and verticals not represented at previous editions of the show. This significant growth in attendance indicates the industry’s increasing demand for international networking opportunities, and we are proud to provide a forum that facilitates new business relationships and encourages global innovation for the textile industry.”
Education
The Chicago event hosted five symposium sessions covering a total of 23 topics presented by industry experts. Topics included smart textiles and wearables, automotive design, advancements in manufacturing and waste minimization, and talent sourcing challenges. In addition, there was a complimentary joint session hosted by JEC and Messe Frankfurt that examined technical textiles and composites in building and construction applications.
The Raleigh, N.C.-based Nonwovens Institute (NWI) also hosted Tech Talks on the show floor with NWI’s Director of Industry Engagement Dave Nelson leading sessions on filtration, safety and transportation. Participants in the graduate student poster program also presented their research during Tech Talk sessions. “The symposium sessions were informative and interesting,” said Lisa Paige, technical lead engineer, ArjoHuntleigh. “I regularly attend this show in the U.S. and Frankfurt and always get a lot out of the sessions.”
“We were very pleased with this year’s show,” said Dominique Quintal, vice president, sales and marketing, Filspec Inc., Sherbrooke, Quebec. “We had visitors non-stop for three days — existing customers, new customers, customers bringing their contacts to our booth. We were also able to form relationships with other exhibitors, providing a lot of new project opportunities.” Quintal mentioned to Textile World that the show resulted in four active programs for Filspec. “One recommendation to exhibitors — come prepared to be challenged and expect to work hard because our experience shows that Techtextil visitors are coming to find solutions,” Quintal added.
The next edition of Techtexil North America will take place in Atlanta May 22-24, 2018 at the Georgia World Congress Center.
September/October 2017
U.S. Textiles: Have No Fear, Automation Is Here

Automation continues to assist the growth of U.S. manufacturing.
By James Borneman, Editor In Chief
A common thread in recent investments in the U.S. textile industry seems to be the effectiveness of automation and process control in making the United States a globally competitive manufacturing destination. Many announcements cite four factors driving investment in U.S. textiles — superior cotton supply chain, relatively inexpensive and dependable energy supply, highly educated labor force that can handle automation, and good transportation infrastructure including ports and roads.
The automation and textile industries have much in common in that each is widely misunderstood and undervalued by the general consumer. As the narrow perception of textiles is belied by that fact that textiles are huge part of daily life, so is automation — both sectors largely known only by the practitioners within the respective industries.
Consumers and politicians tend to pit labor and automation against one another as if their coexistence is a zero-sum-game — automation supplanting labor. Probably one of the earliest manifestations of this assumption was seen with the Luddites in England who primarily objected to the rising use of automated equipment. In the early 19th century, a 5-year-long region-wide rebellion took place during which textile workers destroyed weaving machinery and stocking frames in protest fearing that skilled textile workers would be replaced by machinery and cheaper, less-skilled labor.
There is no doubt that a fear of automation and concerns over its effect on labor have been long established, first in industrialization in general, as well as computerization and implementation of most forms of technology.
However, nothing could be further from the truth. “Each age in the Industrial Revolution has brought with it a wave of new opportunities and benefits,” said Jeff Bernstein, president, Association for Advancing Automation (A3), Ann Arbor, Mich. “From steam to electricity to computers — and now to automation —society is transformed by technological advances that increase productivity and prosperity and broaden the availability of innovative goods and services. But, more than anything, society is also transformed by new, rewarding jobs that improve workers’ health and safety and allow them to apply their innate creativity and problem-solving skills.”
Consider life before the personal computer — B.PC. — and life as we live it today after the introduction of the personal computer — A.PC. E-mail and the internet have drastically changed the opportunity for rapid communication, and information transfer happens at blistering speeds. Robotics and automation are having similar positive effects in the manufacturing environment.
“Currently we are in a phase of growth and development for automation,” Bernstein said. “As lower-level tasks are automated with advanced technologies such as robots, new job titles and industries arise across nearly every economic sector and new skills are required. The good news and the bad news is employers can’t fill jobs fast enough. Manufacturers estimate there may be as many 2 million jobs going unfilled in the manufacturing industry alone in the next decade due to a skills gap.”
Growth in robotics is real. A3 reports: “The North American robotics market had its best opening half ever to begin 2017, setting new records in all four statistical categories (order units, order revenue, shipment units, and shipment revenue). In total, 19,331 robots valued at approximately $1.031 billion were sold in North America during the first half of 2017, which is the highest level ever recorded to begin a year. These figures represent growth of 33 percent in units and 26 percent in dollars over 2016.”
A3 also tracks the relationship between robot shipments in North America and the seasonally adjusted manufacturing jobs collected by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. The 2010 through 2017 Q2 quarterly chart illustrates an interesting trend. Though the intuitive result would be jobs flat or declining with robot shipments rising, that is not the case. The first quarter of 2010 had approximately 11.5 million manufacturing jobs with robot shipments to North America totaling 2,750 units. The second quarter of 2017 — the most recent data — had approximately 12.35 million manufacturing jobs with robot shipments to North America at 9,000 units. Figure 1 demonstrates the positive relationship between manufacturing employment and robot shipments.
Taking Aim At Garment Manufacturing: Enter The Sewbots
A recent Textile World Innovation Forum featured emerging robotic technology under development by Atlanta-based SoftWear Automation Inc. The technology continues to develop and according to reports, China-based Tianyuan Garments Co. has ordered 21 sewbot lines from SoftWear Automation. Tianyuan Garments has made a $20 million investment in a new facility in Little Rock, Ark. It is reported that Tianyuan produces approximately 10 million casual and sportswear garments annually for brands including Adidas, Reebok and Armani.

An article in China Daily recently stated: “From fabric cutting and sewing to finished product, it takes roughly 4 minutes,” said Tang Xinhong, chairman of Tianyuan Garments. “We will install 21 production lines. When fully operational, the system will make one T-shirt every 22 seconds. We will produce 800,000 T-shirts a day for Adidas.”
Tang said that with complete automation, the personnel cost for each T-shirt is roughly 33 cents. “Around the world, even the cheapest labor market can’t compete with us. I am really excited about this,” he said.
Just As Computers Evolved So Has The Jacquard Head
Joseph Marie Jacquard designed automated patterning equipment for weaving in 1801. The device read a series of wooden cards with holes in specific locations that instructed the loom to lift specific warp ends and release specific ends to create a pattern as the cards, which were strung together in a continuous chain, passed through the head. This concept of providing binary information/instruction for the operation of the loom and pattern control is considered one of the first automation interfaces in manufacturing and also the basis of the concept of early punch cards interfacing with a main frame computer.
Today, a strong example of this evolution comes from the research and development of Switzerland-based Staubli. Traditional heads, for many years were limited in capability. The instruction to raise or lower an end was provided to several ends in the warp and limited pattern control. With today’s mechatronic, or electro-mechanical technologies, Staubli can provide pattern control to every individual warp end, untying the designer’s hands. This technology has had implications in decorative fabric production, but also allows more complex structures to be woven, such as automotive airbags.
According to Ludovic Pitrois, North American Textile Division manager, Stäubli Corp., Duncan, S.C., it is becoming more and more difficult to find people willing to do the same repetitive jobs shift-after-shift, day-after-day. “Without robots assisting with dangerous and mundane jobs, we would lose more jobs in the United States,” Pitrois said. “Utilizing robots in these types of jobs will assist in keeping companies in the United States long term.
“Joseph Marie Jacquard’s jacquard machine was fiercely opposed by Lyon’s silk weavers, who feared the introduction of industrialization and a reduction in work force, which was over 30,000 apprentices. But by 1812, Jacquard had some 11,000 machines weaving fabrics in France alone.
“We will always see changes in technology, employee resources and automation, which is just part of continuing progress. Stäubli takes advantage of challenging itself to design even greater products and to always be ahead of the market. Today, Stäubli with its three divisions can propose full automation for any textile mill if desired.”
This article touches only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to describing automation’s impact on the textile industry. From fiber to spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing — there isn’t a textile sector that hasn’t benefitted from automation and process control. Even basic packaging and material handling have played a significant role in changing the manufacturing floor. The effect is improved quality and consistency, cost control, improved work environments and employment opportunities.
September/October 2017
Nanotechnology Prescription For Antimicrobial Protection

Nano Textile reports it has developed an effective and durable antibacterial fabric treatment.
By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor
There are a number of antibacterial textile treatments currently available to hospitals and health care providers, but most agree that each comes with potential concerns typically related to durability, production efficiencies or overall effectiveness. An innovative new antibacterial application process for fabrics soon to be commercialized by Israel-based Nano Textile looks to provide the ideal prescription hospitals have been looking for. The technology, which involves using sonochemistry to attach nanoparticles to fibers and fabrics, originated in work done by Professor Aharon Gedanken, Dr. Ilana Perelshtein and their team at Bar–Ilan University in Israel.
“The main advantages of the technology are that it can apply antibacterial properties to any kind of readymade fabric,” Gedanken said. The treatment does not at all alter the fabric’s color or physical properties and the entire process is extremely cost-effective. In a hospital setting, for example, our technology can be used for introducing antibacterial characteristics to staff uniforms, patients’ pajamas, linens, blankets, curtains and other surfaces in order to significantly reduce morbidity and mortality and in parallel reduce hospitalization costs.”
Technology Development
Nano Textile was established in 2014 to commercialize the nanoparticle application technology. The company has acquired the global rights from Bar-Ilan University, including granted patents on the technology and previously filed applications — patents are approved in the United States, Israel and Europe, but still awaiting patent approval in Asia. Gedanken and Perelshtein both joined Nano Textile to provide technical support to the commercialization efforts and continue to advance the technology. Nano Textile’s primary focus now is on full implementation of the nanoparticle application technology, including production strategies and commercial product sales. It also is aggressively working to secure additional levels of funding, as well as actively working to develop industrial scale processing equipment in order to bring the technology to the global marketplace. Initial market penetration efforts will focus on the $14 billion and growing medical textiles market, but other markets and opportunities are being investigated as well. Although infection control in hospitals has greatly improved worldwide, there are still upwards of 3 million deaths annually attributed to infections acquired during a hospital stay. According to Nano Textile’s research, one in 10 patients throughout the European Union will get an infection while in a hospital. As bacteria become increasingly resistant to antibiotics, the hunt for new solutions is becoming increasingly urgent.
Nano Textile’s innovative antibacterial technology is based on investigation that Gedanken began more than 10 years ago while participating in a research project to produce socks that Israeli soldiers could wear for more than a week without having to wash. Understanding that bacteria essentially caused the offensive odor from smelly socks, Gedanken realized that if you could eliminate the bacteria, the odor also would be eliminated. Efforts to eliminate the bacteria led to further research into nanoparticles and ultrasonic technologies, which culminated in the European Union’s FP7 Program awarding 12 million Euros in funding to continue these research efforts. This enabled Gedanken’s team to fully develop the concept for creating bacteria resistant fabrics.
Nanoparticle Solution
The pioneering single-step processing technique basically encompasses passing a fabric through a zinc oxide nanoparticle solution while ultrasonic waves are also sent through the solution bath. Zinc oxide — used in lotions, creams and sunscreens — is well known for its antibacterial properties and has long been approved by the Food and Drug Administration as being safe for human contact.
“The secrets to the technology’s success are nanoparticles and sonochemistry — definitely the best coating technique,” Gedanken said. “The process begins when a solution containing zinc acetate is submitted to ultrasonic waves. Bubbles form, grow and collapse, which creates very high temperatures. When the bubbles collapse, zinc oxide nanoparticles are formed. If a bubble collapses near the fabric’s surface, micro-jets of liquid shoot the newly formed nanoparticles towards the surface at high speed. The particles then become embedded into the fabric because of the sheer force with which they hit it,” Gedanken explained. The flexibility of the process allows virtually any readymade fabric to become antibacterial without producing any adverse effects or damage to existing fabric properties — including hand, shade or absorbance, among other properties — regardless of whether it is natural and/or man-made.

Two pilot production concept lines capable of producing fabrics up to 50 centimeters wide were created to advance the technology and feed subsequent laboratory trial processes. Both lines are still in use creating additional samples and a further understanding of the process. Lab testing and evaluations showed that the zinc oxide nanoparticle application process was very effective in producing antibacterial fabric properties that do prevent the spread of hospital-acquired infections and reduce cross contamination. Testing focused on eight particular types of bacteria identified by doctors as posing the biggest risk to patients. The treated fabrics were found to kill off all eight bacteria efficiently and perhaps more importantly, continued doing so after prolonged washings. Photographs of the microscopic analysis showed the continued presence of the antibacterial zinc oxide nanoparticles after industrial washing.
Further evaluations demonstrated that the zinc oxide application process does not appear to damage the fabric quality, appearance or touch, nor does it alter color because the very small zinc oxide nanoparticles have no visible color. Since the nanoparticles are effectively embedded in the fabric, the antibacterial properties exhibit a longevity and durability not seen in other current antibacterial treatments. Fabrics treated with the Nano Textile process have been found to retain 100 percent of their effectiveness even after 65 washing cycles at 92 °C and 100 washing cycles at 75 °C, both equal to or above hospital industry standards. “This result makes our technology different from all others — exceptional even,” Gedanken said. “Nobody else [competing technologies] can demonstrate this. What makes this technology even more exciting is that the zinc oxide also kills certain bacteria that have become resistant to antibiotics.”
“After establishing proof-of-concept, we are now in the process of raising the necessary capital to move forward,” offered Roy Hirsch, Nano Textile’s business development manager. “We are in talks with three Tier 1 fabric finishing machine manufacturers to identify strategic partners going forward.”
“The technology is ready, approved and confirmed by several research institutes as being effective,” agreed Liat Goldhammer, Nano Textile’s Chief Technology Officer. “We realize that machine width and capacity will be enhanced compared to the current R&D developed machinery. Some adjustments will need to be taken, but our prediction is that those will be minor. We are basically production machine investments away from actual commercialization.”

Because all work to date has been done on purpose-built pilot lines that had limits on processing width and speeds, actual process costs have not been confirmed. However, according to Mr. Hirsch, “the direct added cost per running meter is estimated to be less than 10 cents. We believe this to be in a similar range to the added costs of other chemical binders currently being used by competing technologies.” “Obviously, the actual final costs will be dependent on fabric type, quality of pretreatments and amount of nanoparticles to be added, but this will need to be substantiated when full-width production intent processing equipment is up and running,” added Ms.Goldhammer. It is also believed that further understanding and experiences gained under true manufacturing conditions will lower the costs as well.
Even given the possibility of higher costs of Nano Textile’s antibacterial application, the potential systematic cost savings associated with a viable and durable antibacterial fabric application that can be applied to any readymade fabric for the hospital and health care industry must be taken into account. Savings resulting from preventing the spread of hospital-acquired infections and lessening cross-contamination between patients and medical staff, thus significantly reducing secondary infection rates coupled with more durable antibacterial applications that lead to shortened hospital stays, more efficient medical treatments and other areas which currently represent a large economic burden to healthcare providers, will add up quickly as a result of this technology’s implementation. It’s believed the significance of these potential cost savings will more than compensate for any added costs associated with the Nano Textile process.
“It is no surprise, then, that healthcare providers have shown a keen interest in the technology and have begun placing orders,” Hirsch said. Since the R&D efforts and initial focus was targeted towards healthcare, Nano Textile believes the best way to approach the market is going in this direction first and then attracting other markets as opportunities present themselves. “Our immediate focus is on antibacterial fabrics for the hospital and health care markets, but the technology’s potential reaches far beyond medical applications, as it is relevant to a variety of industries such as airplanes, trains and luxury cars in the transportation industry; babywear, sports clothing, undergarments and of course socks in the clothing industry; restaurants, food packaging and hotels in the entertainment and tourist industries; the list goes on and on,” Hirsch added. But for now, Gedanken continues to dream of a day when Nano Textile’s activities lead hospitals to being infection-free. “We are getting closer to the dream.”
September/October 2017
DB Tex Selects SPGPrints Engravers, Printing Machines
Bangladesh-based DB Tex Ltd. — a DBL Group company — recently purchased two additional bestLEN direct laser engraving systems from the Netherlands-based SPGPrints, bringing the total number of bestLEN machines in production to six. The company also has ordered two new 16-color printing machines, which will be installed during the second quarter of 2018.
“The new printers will take the capacity of our factory from 20 tons per day to 40 tons per day,” said Shah Imtiaz Ahsan, assistant general manager, DB Tex. “That represents about 200,000 garments per day, and to meet that level of production and maintain the highest standards of quality possible, we are adding the two bestLEN engravers.
“Reliability is a prime consideration. We operate 24/7, 354 days a year,” Ahsan said. “That means we use up to 120 screens per day in our production. With each bestLEN producing 10 to 12 screens per shift, we can keep up, but the addition of the new printer means we needed the extra screen engraving capacity.”
September/October 2017
Impression Technology Introduces ThermTX Calender
Australia-based Impression Technology has introduced the ThermTX 44-inch rotary heat press calender. According to the company, the 3-in-1 calender is affordable and easy to use in a variety of textile applications including roll-to-roll, cut-piece and dye fixing for direct-to-textile. The solid-steel roll features a 7.8-inch drum and three mandrels for roll feeding and three mandrels for take-up. Advanced heat sensors maintain consistent heat, and the fully self-contained unit does not require air.
“The 44-inch dye sub market has experienced tremendous growth and we have had many users approach us about offering a 44-inch calender which could meet the needs of both beginners and professionals,” said Stephen Richardson, Impression Technology. “In fact, the designers of the ThermTX 44 used focus groups to ensure the unit was not only easy-to-use for those just starting, but also sported the most advanced features required by sophisticated and demanding users. This unit is positioned perfectly for the 44-inch dye sub market and offers incredible value and bundling opportunities with entry level sublimation printer hardware.”
September/October 2017