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Knitting / Apparel

Fibers Focus At Fabric Shows

Textile World looks at new fiber developments and where to find them through the supply chain.

Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent

In January and July, New York City fabric shows are offering new items for apparel. Fiber companies are among the exhibitors showing innovations — and where to find them. At Texworld USA, held July 24-26 at the Javits Convention Center, Lenzing will focus on MicroModal®, with increased production in the United States and Asia; and on MicroModal Edelweiss (See " Edelweiss: Eco Improvement For Modal® Fiber," Textile World , March/April 2012). Invista and FiberMax® cotton are two sponsors of the Kingpins Show and its satellite show, The Continuum, held July 24-25 at Center 548; and Cotton Incorporated is a Kingpins exhibitor.

Lenzing Fibers At Texworld USA
Lenzing AG, Austria, has expanded its reach. At Texworld USA, the company will have 41 exhibitors, including 10 from the United States. "We see an increased demand for Made in America," said Tricia Carey, merchandising manager, Lenzing. "Time, smaller orders and quality are some of the contributing factors. And, we are working through the supply chain, from yarns to knitted fabrics and finally to garments."

Buhler Quality Yarns Corp., Jefferson, Ga., spinners of high-quality yarns, will feature extra-long-staple cotton, MicroModal Edelweiss, and MicroTencel®. Rainbow technology will be on display, with fabrics from Tricots Liesse, Montreal, showing different color depths that can be achieved using this yarn. MicroModal and MicroModal/Supima® cotton slub yarns also will be featured.

At Tuscarora Yarns Inc., Mount Pleasant, N.C., there will be both ring-spun and vortex yarns of Modal/polyester. Vintage Modal triblends; and Modal/cotton heathers, mock twists and nubs are among the choices.

Texollini Inc., Long Beach, Calif., has a wide range of fabrics knitted with Modal, MicroModal, ProModal®, Tencel® and MicroTencel. The range goes from sheer tissue weights and textures knitted on Texollini's Superfino® equipment to heavy fabrics for activewear. And look for new phase-change technology and Fire Stomp® featuring Lenzing FR®.

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Texollini Inc. is one of 41 companies, including 10 from the United States, that will be exhibiting as part of Lenzing Innovation at Texworld USA.

Design Knit Inc., Los Angeles, knits to order, from sheer to heavyweight fabrics. The company can do lightweight sweater knits, novelty and basic fabrics made with cashmere, silk, wool, rayon, cotton, linen, MicroModal, ProModal, Tencel or any other fiber. New fabrics are offered every season.

At Mansfield Textiles Inc., Vernon, Calif., 60 new knitting machines are helping the company renew its dedication to developing new textiles. Laguna Fabrics, Los Angeles, uses blends with MicroTencel to create crepes, nep jerseys, streaky slubs and jacquards. At Los Angeles-based Ecotex, it is about color and print.

FesslerUSA, Orwigsburg, Pa., produces knitted fabrics and garments. One new fabric is a flame-resistant interlock containing Lenzing FR that is soft next to the skin and weighs in at 6.4 ounces (See " Quality Fabric Of The Month: Comfortable FR Underneath It All," TW, May/June 2012). Others are jerseys, interlocks and stripes in blends of MicroModal with Supima cotton and polyester. A 3.6-ounce cotton/MicroModal jersey has a very heavy slub. A 3.1-ounce jersey slub with a bold stripe is knitted using a blend of Supima cotton, MicroModal and polyester; and a 4.3-ounce heathered stripe also contains Supima cotton, MicroModal and polyester.

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Denim Trends At Kingpins
At Kingpins, Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C., will show results of its recent trend analysis with Spain-based dyeing and finishing machinery manufacturer Jeanologia. Here, new methods have been developed that are environmentally and cost friendly. Some involve laser-cut edging, ozone washing to eliminate harsh bleaching, digitally printed denim to get the indigo hue without stonewashing, and printing with realistic prints. Some of the prints include animals, dandelions, exaggerated pinstripes and marbleized effects.

Cotton Incorporated also will show TransDRY® denim from Levi's®, produced in Asia and sold locally. The TransDry treatment pulls moisture through the fabric to help keep the body cool and dry. And, there will be denim developments from Cotton Incorporated's extensive fabric library along with very explicit directions on how to weave or knit each fabric.

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Photoscan is one of 10 directional denim inspirations combining fashion and sustainable innovation developed by Cotton Incorporated and Jeanologia.

Bayer CropScience Inc.'s FiberMax brand, one of the sponsors of Kingpins, will show customers fabrics and garments that have been made with its fibers. FiberMax is extra-long-staple cotton grown in Texas.

Sustainability will be a topic at one of The Continuum seminars. "We will try to explain the word 'Sustainability,'" said Robert Antoshak, managing director of Kingpins organizer, Olah Inc. J. Berrye Worsham, president, Cotton Incorporated, will be a seminar participant.

Wichita, Kan.-based Invista, also a Kingpins sponsor, has developed three themes around denim. The first, Ecology, was developed in cooperation with Jeanologia. Here, innovative laser printing and waterless washes are used to finish fabrics. Each is rated on a score from one to 100. "One is the best score," said Jean Hegedus, global marketing director — Bottoms. "Most of ours came to about 16.

"We launched this project at Première Vision Denim," Hegedus continued. "A fabric from [China-based] Seazon Denim that was printed with a cable stitch pattern was well-received, along with fabrics from Prosperity Textiles and Central Textiles [both based in Hong Kong].

"Our second theme is called Ethnic," Hegedus said. "It includes a lot of bright colors and prints."

She pointed out jeans made in a fabric from C.D.I. (Color Denim International Ltd.), Hong Kong, using yarn-dyed yarns rather than being garment dyed, ''so you see a lot of white," she said.

Another fabric, from Tavex, Spain, contains LYCRA® dualFX®, which, Hegedus explained, comprises two stretch fibers, Lycra for stretch and Lycra T400® for recovery.

Emerging is the third theme Invista will present. "Here, we did a lot of research in the menswear market," Hegedes explained. "We discovered that there is a lot of crossover between sportswear and rugged activewear. Men want fabrics that are strong and abrasion-resistant," she said. TOUGH MAX™ Lycra provided the answer: It has toughness, resists abrasion and doesn't add weight. It contains Lycra T400. Some of the fabrics she pointed out are from Kaltex®, Mexico; A.D.M. Denim, Pakistan; and India-based Bhaskar Industries Ltd. and Arvind Ltd.

July/August 2012