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From Farm To Fabric: The Many Faces Of Cotton - The 74th Plenary Meeting of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC)
12/06/2015 - 12/11/2015

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12/07/2015 - 12/11/2015

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Italian Companies Shine

Important wet processing innovations arrive from Italy.

Italian manufacturers from the finishing sector were among the leading lights at the ITMA 99 fair in Paris.In order to achieve the important results shown at ITMA, as well as hefty investments in research and development, a number of companies have called in expert partners from allied sectors: fiber producers or manufacturers of dyestuffs and auxiliaries.This kind of synergy was, in fact, one of the biggest developments apparent at the ITMA show. Other successful partnerships, already tried and tested, still include those that are established with specialists operating in the fields of electronics, pneumatics, robotics and automation. This is the continuation of a trend which first emerged in October 95 at the last ITMA fair held in Milan. Brazzoli and Cimi, in collaboration with Clariant, have developed a new class of sulfur dyes (for dyeing processes in inert atmosphere) and auxiliaries for the Lavableach process (combined, continuous, for desizing, preparation and bleaching).Meanwhile, Sperotto Rimar, in close collaboration with Australian technologists from CSIRO, has developed a revolutionary application for the continuous decatisting of quality wool fabrics. (DECOFAST).Others, in a number of application sectors, have worked with DuPont specialists to resolve the any problems associated with the processing of stretch fabrics containing Lycra®.The Prato-based company Tecnorama has been able to supply manufacturers like DyStar, Ciba and Bayer with new, fully automated laboratory systems. Meanwhile, Biancalani has with the second generation of the famous AIRO machine, managed to solve a number of problems relating to the finishing of Tencel. Brazzoli's Nitro ProcessWith the Saturno Vacuum machine, the Lombardy-based company has launched the revolutionary Nitro Process for dyeing, which is carried out in an inert nitrogen atmosphere using a new class of sulfur dyes (the Diresul dyes) recently developed in the United States and marketed in Europe by Clariant.These dyes are characterized by minimum contamination levels as well as high technical fastness properties. Furthermore, their application cycle operates on low energy and water consumption levels and process times are considerably reduced, thus making this process extremely cost-effective even in comparison with well-known dye classes such as reactive dyes.The vacuum dyeing process developed by Brazzoli is based on the creation of an inert atmosphere inside the machine, obtained by creating a vacuum and then introducing nitrogen. Sperotto Rimar's DecofastIn the final stage of the treatment of quality wool fabrics, finishers carry out a setting treatment aimed at getting a suitable hand and make-up properties, together with obtaining the desired fastness characteristics before the making-up stage.These processes, characterized by different intensities and carried out using hot water or steam, naturally lead to variations in the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric. This affects fabrics reaction to tensile, cutting, flexing and bending stress.At ITMA 99 Sperotto Rimar presented its Decofast model, a continuous decatising machine that works with pressurized steam to guarantee appropriate fabric dimensional stability and ensure performance levels roughly between those reached by the classic discontinuous atmospheric decatising process and those reached by the kier treatment.Decofast also improves the appearance of materials, giving it the so-called finish decatising effect which improves surface appearance and make-up performance.  Cimi/Clariant ParntershipCimi has made its relations with customers and (more recently) with a supplier like Clariant, the basis for its further development and success. Already a well-known and established brand thanks to its continuous washing system for open-width woolen fabrics (the Lavanova range, which even outperformed its famous German rivals), Cima exhibited the Lavableach model for the treatment of cellulose fabrics at ITMA. Lavableach is also the name of the processing technology incorporated into the machine.As far as Clariant is concerned, the application has allowed the Swiss company to obtain all the necessary expertise (and obviously develop the whole range of specific auxiliaries) for tuning the process chemistry.  MAIBO's TMB/SV/trOn the exhibition space shared with OBEM in Hall 3, the Biella-based firm rolled out one of the most striking novelties of ITMA 99. It is the first time that automation in yarn dyeing has been extended to skeins. This revolutionary technology has been applied to the star-frame dyeing machine, mainly used for very fine and luxury materials, such as silk, viscose, acetate, superfine wools and mohair.The new model, TMB/SV/tr, is equipped with triangular rotating arms and runs with a very harmonious rotation movement which ensures a delicate shift of the textile substrate. In comparison with previous versions, it offers significant operational and qualitative advantages.The most important technical advances are the following: smaller overall space occupied by the machine, lower liquor ratio, greater loading capability, possibility of coupling two machines and full automation with shuttle.According to MAIBO, an automatic plant of this kind has been purchased by Botto Poala of Lessona. PMT's UniversalPMT, a subsidiary of Cubotex, exhibited its Universal model, developed by PMT for dyeing delicate garments. It is a fully automatic machine, fitted with an on-board industrial PC with PLC programmable logics. It features advanced ancillary technologies including color kitchen adjustable to specific needs and a patented sampling device with revolving cylinder, which allows the user to withdraw samples without the need of stopping and opening the machine.Also the final hydroextraction is very efficient. According to the company, it has an internal material basket is divided into three parts with or without staves for material shaking. Upon request, the Universal can be supplied without internal divisions. Dye liquor can be circulated outside of the basket and/or through the central sector to increase the dye penetration. The Universal can also be connected to a centralized PC and with the software for production management in line with machines equipped with the same automation, according to the company. Comet's PolaraComet showed the Polara, an electronic combined raising/shearing machine. The Polaras major features include: an operator control panel with touch-screen PC; an industrial PC for machine control; programmed maintenance control; recipe storage; drum with 14 pile raising rulers; two contact areas of the drum, adjustable by touch-screen; shearing cylinder with spiral blades; variable fabric speed from 9 to 30 meters per minute by three-phased motor and inverter; seam detection by electronic sensor for the displacement of shearing table and velveting comb; velveting unit consisting of a brush and its rest for the pile preparation to shearing; and shearing height and velveting brush depth adjusted by a PC. CROSTA's MC-10/24 XXLOne of the most significant novelties that Crosta showed at ITMA was the raising machine model MC-10/24 XXL. The machine is a single drum raising machine with 24 raising rollers for processing special fabrics. It has a working width of 4,500 mm. Its main technical features include: raising rollers driven by synchronous belts, electronic control of the cleaning brushes, remote assistance via modem and a control panel with touch-screen color display. Loris Bellini Shows RobodyeThe company showed its Robodye 2000 integrated robotised installation for dyeing hydroextraction and drying of yarn in bobbins.According to Loris Bellini, the Robodye 2000 has been designed for fully automatic functioning. The idea in studying the system has been to realize a line receiving the yarn bobbins in modular columns in which the bobbins number can be varied in function of the actual needs, which permits to process automatically in order to obtain at its exit the same columns of bobbins dyed and dry, the company says.With Robodye 2000 the only intervention consists in filling the columns with the greige yarn bobbins, and in unloading the dyed and dry material from the same columns at the end of the process. This phase can also be fully automatic. Loris Bellini has been producing for years the largely tested Hydrocolumn system, which allows the handling of the yarn bobbins from dyeing carriers to centrifuge and from centrifuge to drying carriers.The dyeing machine, based on the well known RBNV system, has been optimized in its shape and volume so to obtain the ideal liquor ration. Termoelettronica's U.R.The U.R. is the latest innovation in the field of powder dyes transfer and dissolving units, developed by Termoelettronica.According to the company, a patented vacuum process applied to the system allows the direct transfer of powders from the weighing bucket to the mixing tank.No robots or automated handling systems are needed on this purpose. The transfer phase does not involve any powder floating or fumes emission, so much so that no hoods or exhausters are mounted on the equipment, which yet meets all safety and environmental requirements. Powder transfer speed ranges from 150 to 300 g/s, depending on product chemical-physical characteristics. The complete absence of mechanical movements and the units operational simplicity guarantee total reliability and a user-friendly approach. Lawer's Color KitchenLawer was at ITMA for the seventh time, celebrating at the same time 29 years of activity and experience in the field of textile automation, mainly oriented in the field of color kitchen equipment.Lawer production is based on a wide range of plants and systems, manufactured in a customized way, according to the specific customers needs, in order to achieve a total automation in the metering and dispensing of all the products used in textile dyeing and finishing cycles.At ITMA 99, Lawer was showing a modern automatic color kitchen for dyeing and finishing departments, equipped with the latest Lawer Systems. It had an automatic weighing system for powder dyestuff.A dissolving and dispensing system for powder dyestuff was also shown at the ITMA show.In addition Lawer exhibited new systems, especially designed for small-medium size companies. These include semi-automatic weighing system for powder dyestuff. This system is capable of the measuring liquid products, and the dissolving and dispensing of powder dyestuff. New Dispensing SystemColorService showed an entire automatic production system for the dosing, disolving and delivery of all the products used in the dyehouse. The system handles the dosing and dissolving of powder auxiliaries and chemicals.It has storage up to 35 cubic meters, dosing, dissolving and delivery to the dyeing machine for 300 kilograms of salt in eight minutes.The evolution of the powder dyes dissolving system has doubled productivity and less water consumption. Dosing and dissolving of dark powder dyes can be done easily. The unit has been purposely studied to dose, dissolve and deliver big amounts of dyes.An innovative system for laboratories with a powder dye dosing machine called SuperLab is also available.

September 1999