Changes Likely In Textile Trade Issues


U
S Trade Representative (USTR) Susan C. Schwab says the Democratic takeover of Congress is
not likely to put the brakes on the Bush administration’s push for free trade, but that’s not
exactly how industry lobbyists and congressional leaders see it.

The Bush administration has negotiated 25 free trade agreements (FTAs), and at least five
more are in various stages of negotiation or consideration. It has supported trade preference
agreements for the Caribbean, South America, Africa and other areas of the world; and it has played
a major role in promoting the Doha Round of trade liberalization negotiations. Schwab believes
these issues have bipartisan support and that a bipartisan spirit can be carried forward. She says
talk of partisan power clashes are “contradicted by the facts,” and that Republicans and Democrats
have worked together on trade issues for more than 70 years. She contends the mission of opening
markets, spurring development and keeping the United States in the fore of promoting free trade “
transcend party identification.”

As the administration’s top trade official, Schwab sees a number of specific issues the new
Congress will be dealing with where there is widespread bipartisan support. With respect to the
stalled Doha Round, she says the United States must continue to press for a resolution of
differences between developed and developing countries, and the bipartisan support for the latest
US offer to the World Trade Organization (WTO) should help get the talks off dead center if other
countries will respond favorably. She warns that the risks of failure are “profound,” and that “we
cannot let an effective round slip through our fingers.”


Some Issues Resolved

Four key textile trade issues are off the table, as they were dealt with in the waning days of
the 109th Congress. Permanent normal trade relations for Vietnam was approved, the African Growth
and Opportunity Act and the Andean Trade Preference Act were extended, and a FTA with Haiti was
enacted. Put off until this year are ratification of FTAs with Colombia and Peru. And the
administration is in the process of negotiating free trade agreements with South Korea and
Malaysia.

By far the most important trade issue — and the most contentious — that must be dealt with
before July is the question of extending trade promotion authority to the president. Formerly known
as “fast track,” this authority permits the president to negotiate trade agreements and present
them to Congress for an up or down vote with no amendments. While trade promotion authority may
have been rubber-stamped by the Republican-controlled 109th Congress, its future in the new
Congress is definitely uncertain.


Importers See Challenges And Opportunities

Despite all of the optimistic talk by administration officials, importers see
both pitfalls and opportunities with the Democratic takeover of Congress. Without question, there
will be much more congressional oversight and questioning with regard to textile trade issues. This
can have both pluses and minuses. On the plus side, importers see strong congressional support for
such things as trade liberalization for Latin American nations and for more FTAs, although they are
getting increasingly disillusioned by them. Importers have some reservations about how FTAs will be
structured and whether they will be used to promote free trade or will have restrictive rules of
origin, which importers view as harmful to themselves and consumers.


Chinese Trade

China looms as a major issue. While the Bush administration has taken some steps to slow down
Chinese imports with such things as renewed quotas on textiles and apparel, it generally has not
wanted to pick a fight with China over trade issues. During the election campaign and in a number
of post-election comments by newly elected members of Congress and the leadership, it has been
popular to take pot shots at China. And there is plenty of ammunition. The USTR’s annual report to
Congress on China’s implementation of its WTO commitments was highly critical. The USTR said that
while China has made some moves toward a market economy, it is falling far short on what needs to
be done, and in the past year there were worrisome signs that progress has slowed.

Everything from currency manipulation to what are viewed by some as other unfair trade
practices will be on the congressional agenda. Sens. Charles Schumer, D-N.Y., and Lindsay Graham,
R-S.C., plan to re-introduce their bill that would place a 27.5-percent duty on Chinese imports to
offset China’s pegged currency exchange rate, which textile manufacturers and others say amounts to
an unfair subsidy. The senators held off action on their bill during the past session of Congress
in order to give the administration more time to negotiate a satisfactory solution to the problem.
Following a year-end conference with China at which the currency problem was a centerpiece, US
government trade officials reported no progress toward resolving the issue.

Eric Autor, the National Retail Federation’s (NRF) international trade counsel, says some
Democrats have been calling for “draconian action on China” that will hurt retailers and their
customers if carried out. He is concerned that an effort will be made to strengthen US trade laws
with respect to such things as dumping and what are seen by many as other illegal trade subsidies.
Autor believes US trade laws already are skewed in favor of manufacturers at the expense of
importers and consumers. He says the textile industry is looking to trade laws as another form of
protectionism. While the NRF and other importers have generally favored the idea of FTAs, Autor
says they are becoming increasingly disillusioned with them, and he fears that a Democratic
Congress will press for labor standards and environmental protection to be included in them at the
expense of free trade. 


Textile Lobbyists Expect Change

 Textile industry lobbyists also see change taking place on trade issues. They agree with
importers that there will be much more scrutiny and oversight on trade issues — and they see that
as a positive development. Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade
Action Coalition, which includes textile manufacturers, looks for much more discussion and debate
on trade issues. This is particularly true with respect to renewing fast track. He says that issue
will provide a “great opportunity for legitimate debate on the future of trade.” Other trade
issues, such as future FTAs and trade with China, will be subject to much closer scrutiny than they
would have been under a Republican-controlled Congress.


What Will Congress Do?

Members of Congress who will be in key positions of authority also see the need for change in
trade policies, and for the most part this means a go-slow approach. More than 30 newly elected
members of Congress campaigned against further trade liberalization, and Democrats are not likely
to give the administration free rein. They have made it clear they will press for labor standards
and environmental protection to be included in future trade agreements. They are quite concerned
about China and have vowed to do something about currency manipulation and other trade subsidies.
Rep. Charlie Rangel, D-N.Y., the new chairman of the House Ways and Means committee, which
initiates trade legislation, says he does not think the Bush administration has dealt with China in
order to “go to bat for American industries.”

Some FTAs have to be voted on by Congress, and down the road it could be considering such
things as a Free Trade Area of the Americas, and even the Doha Round if it can be brought back to
life.

All in all, Washington certainly will see winds of change, but not necessarily any
hurricanes.








January/February 2007

Glen Raven To Acquire Astrup, John Boyle

Glen Raven Inc., Glen Raven, N.C.,
plans to acquire The Astrup Co., Cleveland, and John Boyle & Co., Statesville, N.C. — leading
suppliers of materials, including Sunbrella® and other Glen Raven performance fabrics, for awning,
casual furniture and marine applications.

“Glen Raven remains committed to growing and supporting the industrial fabric industry,”
said Allen E. Gant Jr., president, Glen Raven. “Merging Glen Raven’s resources with those of Boyle
and Astrup will create a stronger, more diversified organization that is capable of providing
enhanced value throughout the entire supply chain. This strategic initiative will allow us to grow
each of the markets we serve by working more directly with our customers.

“Timing is ideal for the merger of our companies,” he continued. “Today’s global markets
demand innovative products, efficient supply chains, close working relationships with customers and
strong consumer brands. We can achieve all of this and more by joining forces with the talented
people at Boyle and Astrup.”

Astrup and Boyle have had business relationships with Glen Raven for more than a
century. Astrup brings 14 distribution centers located throughout North America to the deal, while
Boyle brings its knitting, coating and laminating capabilities and 300,000-plus square feet of
manufacturing, distribution and administration facilities.

The acquisitions are expected to be completed by mid-May 2007.



January/February 2007

ITG Sells Mattress Assets To Culp

International Textile Group (ITG),
Greensboro, N.C., has sold its Burlington House mattress fabrics product line to Culp Inc., High
Point, N.C., for $2.5 million in cash and approximately 880,000 shares of Culp common stock. ITG
will use the proceeds of the sale, which includes inventory and production rights for its mattress
fabric patterns, to expand its global core businesses. Culp’s mattress fabrics focus and
cost-competitiveness in that area are expected to benefit mattress customers.

“ITG continues to implement its business strategy of being a global textile fabrics and
solutions provider focusing on markets where it is able to differentiate itself through innovative
products, styling and competitive manufacturing facilities,” said Joseph L. Gorga, ITG’s president
and CEO. “With its entry into the automotive fabrics business, through the merger with Safety
Components International, ITG is also focusing on highly engineered technical fabrics.”

“We view this as a great opportunity for Culp,” said Robert G. Culp III, chairman of the
board and CEO, Culp Inc. “Mattress fabric … accounted for approximately 40 percent of the company’s
sales in our second fiscal quarter.” He said Culp recently has invested substantially in its
mattress fabrics business, and the acquisition of the Burlington House assets will allow it to grow
annual mattress fabric sales by some $25 million to $30 million without investing in fixed assets.
He also said Culp’s existing capacity will accommodate the additional volume.

Delores Sides, director, corporate communications and human resources, ITG, said the
transition of the product line from Burlington House to Culp will take two to four months. The
exact impact on Burlington House employees isn’t yet clear, although Sides said there will be a
reevaluation of capacity needs at the company’s Pioneer operation. “We do not expect significant
change at our Burlington Finishing plant, as we are in the process of moving apparel fabrics into
that plant, which we expect to balance our employment needs,” she added.



January/February 2007

Thies Presents New Innovations

More than 160 customers from 21
countries recently attended an open house at Thies GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, a supplier of
discontinuous dyeing machines. The company presented a new concept in the area of atmospheric and
high-temperature jigger dyeing, and unveiled a new beam-winding machine.

Visitors also spent time in Thies’ research facilities and attended a lecture on the
company’s powder, dye and chemical dispensing systems.



January/February 2007

Textiles In 2007: Off And Running


L
ooking ahead, 2007 promises to be an interesting year for US textiles. Although
technological developments seem to enter the market without any predictable cycle these days, ITMA
2007, to be held in Munich this September, will be a strong opportunity to catch the latest
innovations.

Textile World
editors are already taking a peek at what’s new and planning coverage for this “Super Bowl”
of textile technology.

If you are drawn to technical textiles, INDA’s IDEA show, set for April in Miami, will
provide a chance to warm up, see the ocean and learn about the latest nonwovens trends. Then it’s
off to Frankfurt in June for TechTextil — fans of the North American edition will appreciate the
size and scope of this show. Save time for Las Vegas in October, when the ever-popular IFAI Expo
will continue to attract new exhibitors and visitors. The 2006 colocation with ATME-I® in Atlanta
was a great chance for many members of the industry to see IFAI in action.

The apparel sector, though smaller in recent years, has some very strong innovations. Whether
it’s fiber, yarn, fabric, finishing, apparel manufacturing or the ever-elusive relationship with
retailers and brands — striving to collaborate in a lean, proactive supply chain — there will be
plenty of activities in 2007. It is a little late to mention the January Outdoor Retailer show,
which has grown in popularity. MAGIC is set for Las Vegas in February, and AAPN has announced two
networking meetings this year beyond its regular slate of activities. In mid-March, AAPN will host
a meeting in Santa Monica, Calif., to mix it up on the West Coast, and in early August, it will
support the Apparel Conference of the Americas in Antigua, Guatemala. AAPN has been working hard to
link everyone from fiber suppliers through retailers in a no-politics environment — it’s all
business.

VESTEX has organized the 16th edition of the Apparel Sourcing Show in Guatemala for
mid-April, and don’t forget Material World this May. This is the expanded edition — with the SPESA
Expo, Material World and Technology Solutions colocated in the triennial event format that brings
together the major components of the sewn products industry. One badge allows access to all three
events. Material World will also head for New York City in mid-September as it pursues the NYC
market. And Messe Frankfurt’s second edition of Texworld USA will move to the Javits Center for the
July show in NYC.

In other sectors, AFA’s FloorTek Expo is scheduled for October at the NorthWest Georgia Trade
& Convention Center in Dalton. It is always interesting to see the latest in flooring
manufacturing.

This just scratches the surface of the many textile industry events. As the US industry
continues to change, so do the events industry participants choose to support. Learning the market,
learning the technology and engaging the entire supply chain helps. As TW ‘s Economics Editor
Robert Reichard points out in this year’s economic outlook, the US industry has entered a
stabilizing trend. Having invested more than $36 billion over the past decade in plants and
equipment, some of the payoff has happened, and many believe there are significant signs of more to
come.



January/February, 2007

BJ Textile Processing, Maxim Install Monforts Units

BJ Textile Processing Ltd., India,
has taken delivery of a Toptex compressive shrinkage unit from A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH
& Co. KG, Germany. The machine will be used in the processing of knitwear products. It is the
first Toptex unit to be installed in India and joins two Monforts Montex tenters BJ Textile already
has installed. The company is using the Monforts machinery to process a range of fabrics up to 220
centimeters (cm) wide, and weighing between 140 and 320 grams per square meter (g/m2).

Dyeing and finishing knitwear specialist Maxim SA, Greece, has installed a fully automatic
Montex 6500 tenter with an energy heat recovery system to process difficult fabrics that must meet
stringent customer specifications with regard to quality, response times and price. The new tenter
is the third Montex unit the company has installed since the late 1990s. Maxim is using all three
tenters to process fabrics up to 240 cm wide and weighing 80 to 350 g/m2.



January/February 2007

Martex Partnership Grows Central American Eco-Friendly Initiative

Martex Fiber Southern Corp. — a
Spartanburg-based manufacturer of recycled industrial textile products — has formed a partnership
with Pride-Tex — a Honduras-based subsidiary of Karim’s Group, a full-package apparel manufacturer
also based in Honduras — to collect and market textile waste in Central America. The new
partnership expands Martex Fiber’s Central American textile-waste recycling initiative, established
in 2004 when it partnered with Honduras-based INVEX S. de R.L. to sell textile waste collected in
Honduras and El Salvador.

Martex and Pride-Tex will collect, process and broker waste — such as table cuttings,
seaming waste, wiping rags, and remnant and roll-end fabric — generated through textile and apparel
mill production including T-shirts, underwear and other knitted or woven products.

“This waste could otherwise be designated for landfill or incineration …, which are both
environmentally unfriendly alternatives,” said Jimmy Jarrett, president, Martex. “As the
availability of textile waste dwindles in the United States due to factors such as domestic
production closings and offshore migration, this arrangement with Pride-Tex ensures that we are
able to still salvage valuable waste and recycle it for end-uses that include apparel and bedding
and other textile applications.”



January/February 2007

Milliken Chemical Opens European Microbiology Lab

Milliken Chemical Europe, a business
unit of Spartanburg-based Milliken & Company’s Milliken Europe NV subsidiary, has opened the
Milliken Europe Microbiology Laboratory at its technical center in Belgium. The lab will offer
in-house material and finished-part testing, offer support and service to customers in Europe that
use Milliken’s Alphasan® silver inorganic antimicrobial technology, and support Alphasan-related
research and development projects.


dpfnews



“This new resource forms part of our strategy to expand our service in Europe, reinforcing
Milliken’s commitment to prioritizing the needs of customers by providing quicker and more
efficient technical support,” said Elke De Clerck, Ph.D., the new lab’s technical services manager,
who oversees testing and interacts with customers and sales personnel. “We are looking forward to
the opportunities this closer cooperation will bring, in particular with regard to exploring new
application areas.”

The lab features inoculation and colony-counting facilities, incubators, safety cabinets,
sterilization autoclaves and microscopy services. Assisting De Clerck is a lab coordinator who
organizes and performs daily activities.



January/February 2007

Cognis Expands Jinshan Chemicals Production Plant

Germany-based Cognis Deutschland GmbH
& Co. KG’s Process Chemicals business unit has invested US$4.9 million to update its Jinshan,
China, plant and expand production capacity there for textile and leather intermediates and final
blends, as well as the range of products, including scouring agents, degreasing agents, softeners
in pill form and fatliquors.

“By building new production facilities and modernizing our process technologies, we have now
further improved our ability to serve our customers, both in China and throughout Asia, keeping
pace with the continued economic growth in the region,” said Xiaolan Wang, Ph.D., head of textile
technology, Greater China.



January/February 2007

Ansell Healthcare Uses Dyneema® Fibers In Gloves

Ansell Healthcare Products Inc., a
Red Bank, N.J.-based international manufacturer and marketer of natural and synthetic latex
surgical and medical examination gloves, is now using Dyneema® fiber — produced by DSM Dyneema, The
Netherlands — in a line of cut-resistant gloves offered under its Polar Bear Paw Gard® brand.

The US Food and Drug Administration recently approved the fibers for use in the
food-processing industry.

The gloves combine up to ASTM-ISEA Level 5 cut resistance to deliver the protection of a
heavyweight sleeve or glove with the close fit of a lightweight glove.



January/February 2007

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