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September/October 2014 Sept/Oct 2014

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09/16/2014 - 09/18/2014

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Knitting / Apparel

Spring '15 Sees Refinement

Fabrics will be soft, light and misted.

Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent

There was a lot of change and newness at Première Vision Preview in New York City. Colors are subtle, less bright yet lively.  Fabrics are soft, full and light. Sparkle is less sharp. The looks are classic and casual, feminine and fragile. At Indigo, Printsource and Première Vision, the newest prints for apparel are small-scale or large, misted and blurred.

Première Vision
The most recent Première Vision was the biggest edition yet to be held in New York. Guiglielmo Olearo, international shows manager, said the shows will move in July to the Hudson River Piers, where there is more space. “The show is strong and growing,” he said. “Made-in-USA is on the upswing, both in quantity and quality.”

Fabric companies from around the world showed early Spring 2015 fabrics for men, women, casual, techno and children. In addition, Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd., Japan, was there with an all-in-one workstation for designing knitted, woven, printed and jacquard fabrics through to seamless garments.       

Philea, France, has just taken over shirting fabric maker Emanuel Lang. It also owns corduroy producer Velcorex since 1828 and Tissage de Chause, a producer of fancy tweed suitings.    

Clean, classic, small, delicate designs in the Philea line include mini dots in floral patterns. A lot coordinate. There is subtle luster. One-color prints are romantic with an antique look. There are soft-hand satins, crepe-backed satins, small bubble textures with stretch, mini satin jacquards, small and tonal linen jacquards in natural colors, and soft viscose/nylon double-faced fabrics.

New at Velcorex are TENCEL® blends with LYCRA® T400® and Tencel/linen. Emanuel Lang has casual/chic no-iron shirtings that are updated mixed cultures. Laminated, slightly shiny, fringed updated Chanel looks are in the Tissage de Chause line.

The best seller at BTD Textile, Turkey, is a double-stretch cotton/viscose pant fabric that “fits like a girdle,” said New York Agent Francesca DeVito. Soft and flowing dress fabrics include a no-shine sateen in cotton/viscose/Tencel and a washable cotton/elastane bistretch.

Three French knitters showed subtle designs, space dyes and novelty. Henitex International has a new nylon/elastane swimwear line. There are mini tonal broken stripes, open-pattern acrylic/cotton/polyester sweater knits, subtle diamond patterns knitted with space-dyed yarns, irregular stripes and crochet looks.  

Bel Maille’s knitted fabrics cross over between underwear and outerwear. There are blends of viscose and acrylic; viscose, cotton and polyester; acrylic, polyester, nylon and elastane; or nylon and elastane. There are terry looks, space-dyed designs, neoprene finishes, surface interest and jacquard patterns.   

Compagnie Des Cotons showed lightweight, sheer, open patterns and blurred floral/leaf patterns. There are a variety of thick and thin stripes, space dyes, crinkles, and multicolored sheer/opaque jacquards in small patterns and coordinating stripes.  

At Frizza S.p.A., Italy, fabrics are ultralight, bonded, 3-D, transparent, tie-dyed or laminated with stretch. There are gold and silver, shiny coated double-faced fabrics, laminated stretch jacquards, and soft and light taffetas. Most are water-repellent.

Olmetex S.p.A., Italy, has a lot of linen. Some is coated; other fabrics are double-faced. There are ultralight and soft coated silks; thin metallic stripes on black in an ultrasoft, light fabric; woven plaids on crinkled grounds; small tonal abstract laser prints; ultralight ripstop nylon; and a lot of transparency.

Everest Textile, Taiwan, showed eco-fabrics and double faces. A coated twill reverses to simple one-color mini circles, stars or stripes. Waterproof micropolyester fabrics are soft, lightweight and available in small dobby patterns, heathers or stripes. There are waterproof fabrics with a coated sheen; ultralight rain- and windproof bonded, brushed back fabrics; and fabrics with four-way-stretch and moisture management.  

Prints at Première Vision are faded, misted, sensuous, soft and sultry. Flowers, abstracts, animals, ethnics and jungle designs are enormous, allover and blurred; or small and conversational. United Kingdom-based Liberty Art Fabrics’ line is Alice in Wonderland-inspired. There are large floral bouquets, and mini animal skins. For menswear, there are mini bicolored flowers. A jacquard Tana lawn has small florals in diamond patterns.

At Miroglio Textile S.r.l., Italy, there are pale, misted wildflowers — some with an organic feel. They are faded, stippled, brushed and smudged; and have sultry edges. Floral clusters mimic animal spots. Berries are stained and smudged. There is an aged, worn look.


At Première Vision, Miroglio Textile showed floral fabrics with faded, stippled, brushed and smudged effects.

Sprintex S.A., France, has misted and blurred allovers, tweed ground prints, and ethnic or jungle floral borders. Jacquards have a tapestry look or coordinate with black-and-white designs. There is a lot of stretch.

KBC, Germany, has burn-outs. Some are foil-printed with enormous abstract patterns. A large abstract floral is on a white ground with black, gray, tan and silver. Black-and-white designs include florals on piqué grounds; simple, angular geometrics with small dots; and bold, graphic optical designs.  

Akerler Tekstil Tic. Ltd., Turkey, showed blurred, allover jungle prints; florals; abstract animals; and birds. Print grounds include silk satin, cotton lawn and polyester sheers.

Indigo And Printsource
Two surface design shows have prints for apparel and the home. Several exhibitors were at both events.   

At Indigo, Whiston & Wright, UK, had pretty, nonaggressive designs; skins; ethnics; and black-and-white designs. At Printsource, there were tribal geometrics, decorative ethnics, digital mechanical looks and artsy brushstroke designs.   

UK-based Gather No Moss showed large-scale, soft, sketchy, delicate florals with a handpainted look. There are tribal ethnics in melted colors, hand-drawn tropicals, tie-dyes, and abstract blurred skin prints. At Indigo, Westcott Design Ltd., UK, showed blanched nature. There are translucent/opaque fragile, feminine florals; ikats; minerals in iridescent colors; and small, sophisticated patterns for blouses.   

There were lots of plaids, dots and stripes at Tom Cody Design, New York City and the UK. Dots are drawn, graphic, or in black and white. Plaids are one-color, soft and delicate. Other ideas are small borders and melting, fragile and feminine florals.

One wall at Indigo presented the most representative Spring/Summer 2015 patterns by exhibiting design studios.
Photo courtesy of Indigo New York

Prints are soft and romantic at Bernini, Italy. Florals often appear with animals or with stripes or scenics. There are melting skins in stripes and ethnic stripes. Caju Collective, Brooklyn, N.Y., has melting florals, tonal geometrics, novelty stripes and black-and-white florals — all made in Brazil.

Zinc Design, UK, showed ombré colors in large and small geometric designs. For swimwear, there are irregular bright stripes. Other designs include tropical florals, allover melted designs, and combinations of graphic with geometric and photographic.  

Printsource studios include Creativo Surface Design, Karma Prints and Artwork, and Purplethum, New York City; Patricia Nugent, Seattle; Lewis Orchid, UK; and Tana Bana Design Services, Morristown, N.J.   

At Creativo, there are abstract leaves and mixed media medallions; and for children, new camouflage prints and dogs. Fabrics at Karma have a sketchy, handmade quality, with small, delicate fruit and vegetable collages, florals and other patterns.   

Printsource exhibitor Mary Obert, owner and creative director of Karma Prints and Artwork, showed fabrics with a sketchy, handmade quality.

Children are a major market for Purplethum. Tropical fruits, honeycomb shapes, torn paper collages and animals are some of the themes. Tana Bana specializes in bedding and home designs. Enlarged paisleys, Jacobean looks and watercolor florals and textures are some of the designs. Tropicals, conversationals and primitives at Lewis Orchid include fish swimming in the sea, outlined patchwork tropicals and textural looks.

Patricia Nugent said there is a return to beautifully executed things. She has delicate florals that are laid out on plaids, retro tropicals reminiscent of the 1930s and ’40s, tiny playful fruit, and prints for the home that are reminiscent of Downton Abbey.

March/April 2014



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